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The Book

My Favorite things about Angelfire.

The Organisation

Final Part


ANGEL BOOK PRAVEEN


EDITORS NOTE:

Rotary, as many readers may already be aware, is an International Organization bringing community leaders together under the umbrella of humanitarian service. In over 160 countries, close to 1.2 million Rotarians participate in over 30,000 Rotary Clubs. The organization is neither political nor religious, and stands with the primary objective of service to community through various global and local projects. Beneath the senior body of Rotary, are two youth wings: the Rotaract Club, for members between the ages of 18 and 25; and the Interact Club formed in Schools, for members under 18 years of age. Throughout this journey, you may notice a recurrence of the terms Rotarian, Rtr. and Interactor; each term refers back to the members of the respective club.


WWF

WWF is a global organization acting locally through a network of family offices. All these offices do all they can to halt the accelerating destruction of our natural world.

What does WWF stand for? WWF originally stood for "World Wildlife Fund". However, in 1986, WWF had come to realize that its name no longer reflected the scope of its activities. WWF changed its name from World Wildlife Fund to the "World Wide Fund For Nature". The United States and Canada, however, retained the old name. In just over four decades, WWF (formerly known as the World Wildlife Fund) has become one of the world's largest and most respected independent conservation organizations. With almost five million supporters distributed throughout five continents, WWF has a global network active in over 90 countries and can safely claim to have played a major role in the evolution of the international conservation movement. Since 1985, WWF has invested over US$1,165 million in more than 11,000 projects in 130 countries. All these play a part in the campaign to stop the accelerating degradation of Earth's natural environment, and to help its human inhabitants live in greater harmony with nature. This section explains how the organization grew from being a small group of committed wildlife enthusiasts into a global network, supported by people from all walks of life, who, like WWF, care about the welfare of our planet.


DEDICATION:

I send my deepest thanks in many directions - for all those who supported me on my journey ... To the Rotary and Rotaract Club members, who adopted and treated me like family. To the many, many individuals and families along the road, whose boundless generosity taught me that despite the horrors and chaos of contemporary politics, this world is full of kindness. To chance friends made in odd places, whose names I perhaps never knew or have forgotten, but whose companionship made a sometimes lonely journey more colourful. To the Indian Embassy Consular Officials, Indian Association members, WWF officers, police, villagers, and the many others who accommodated me in their houses and cared for me as a son. Finally, to Deborah Denhardt and Steven Drayton from WWF-International, Switzerland, who guided me throughout the expedition, assisting me to obtain visas, which ultimately became the most difficult task of my expedition.


MAPPING THE TRIAL

Chapter one

Mission Statement: Save the Earth, Save the Animals and support WWF

I did not begin my journey for adventures sake. I wanted to do something worthwhile. It was not an adventure for nothing. Since my childhood, I have felt the drive to do something different with my life, to be somebody different. I felt confident that one day during the Olympics, I would walk to Australia. However I kept my ambition secret, avoiding the tolerant amusement it would have provoked in my elders. I did not want their soothing reassurances that my dreams were nothing but a passing whim. My dreams gathered strength, eventually growing into the inspiration to begin this expedition. My goal was to spread a message of solidarity: conservation of our environment, protection of its endangered species and prevention of cruelty towards humans and animals.

The decision to embark on the expedition came early in 1998, a time when I found myself completely alone. The death of my beloved mother had filled me with a sense of loneliness and depression. During this time I distanced myself from my father and elder brothers, this was to ensure that under all circumstances my goals would be realised. I began training harder and harder in long distance running, ensuring that my body had enough strength for the journey. I also bought maps and guide books on South East Asia and began studying. I spent hours bent over maps, working out the distances between towns with intoxicatingly improbable names. My calculations estimated that the total distance was around twenty thousand Kilometres. However, the actual distance because of the sea portion, was closer to seventeen thousand Kilometres. My planning was so meticulous that I could have told you exactly where I planned to be on any given day, without hesitation.

I planned a route to the 2000 Sydney Olympics, through India, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. I felt that as an athlete, this was my opportunity to do something outstanding- delivering my message internationally upon arrival at the Olympics. Although Sydney may have been the end point, I saw my journey as an opportunity to actively educate people on the importance of eco-protection. Ever since my school days, I had been involved in environmental and animal activism and had been a member of WWF. I constantly worked on projects and in camps focused on eco-protection. This involvement prompted my decision to walk under the banner of the WWF and apply for their support in the form of a letter. This letter would allow me easy entry to schools and social gatherings along my journey. The message I planned to carry became my mission statement: Save the Earth, Save the Animals and support WWF.

I spent days on the internet, searching for a contact person from WWF. Finally my time paid off and I received mail and a phone number for WWF- International. The same day, I called the Switzerland Office from a public phone and spoke to the receptionist. I introduced myself and quickly requested the fax number. She asked me why, but I did not have enough change to explain my reasons. I could only repeat into the receiver that I would soon run out of money and would call back the next day. Two days later I managed to call again. I again asked for the fax number. On this day the receptionist gave me the number without much fuss, she must have finally realised that my call was genuine. Right away I faxed the details of the expedition and my dreams to the office. I could not believe it, when Deborah Denhardt from WWF- International Switzerland got in touch with me on the very next day, 2nd of July, which also happens to be my birthday. Deborah asked me to contact WWF- India to seek for the necessary help for the expedition.

Over the next fifteen days, I tried in vain to contact WWF- India in their Delhi office. I contacted them by phone, fax and even mailed the details of the expedition program to them. I became very frustrated and re-contacted Deborah, explaining to her that it was proving too difficult to get a response from the WWF- India office and again asked for her help. The very next day she wrote me a confirmation note. She also wrote that she would be sending three T-Shirts for me to wear on the journey and membership cards and stickers to distribute along the way. This happened in August and by the first week of September the parcel arrived. My father and the rest of the family were very excited that I had received a parcel from Switzerland, although nobody knew why. One week later I received the long awaited letter of support. By this time, half the preparation was done.

During these early days of my planning, I came across a documentary on the Discovery Channel. This program was about two Russian men who had hitch-hiked on buses and trucks all the way to New Delhi, India with a minimum funding. Initially, I had seen funding as my greatest obstacle, but after viewing this documentary I had decided that I would travel with no money, surviving only on the charity of the people that I met along the way. After careful consideration, I realised that the most important factor ensuring the continuation of my journey was to obtain a visa for each country. Without money and a sponsorship letter, this would be nearly impossible. I became desperate to establish funding and approached many companies for sponsorship. Unfortunately, none responded positively. Many companies replied that they did not sponsor individual events.

Eventually, I formulated the idea to prepare seventeen thousand greeting cards for Diwali, a large festival which is celebrated each year in October, in India. The card was to be brightly coloured and illustrated with two images. The first image was to be an oxygen mask covering the entire earth and the second of a person cutting a Rhinoceros horn. I would sell the rest of the space to advertisers. The cards were to be distributed free of charge to various companies, government offices and institutions throughout the city. After collecting a quote from the Printing Press, I began visiting big companies in the city, explaining the purpose of the expedition and offering them advertising space. One main sponsor would be advertised on the front at a price of five thousand rupees and twelve smaller advertisements would cover the back at a total price of eighteen thousand rupees. I worked hard collecting money from the sponsors. The funding should have come up to twenty-three thousand rupees, but two of the dealers would not pay up, so in the end the total amounted to twenty thousand rupees. I hoped that of the ten thousand people I delivered the free cards to, each would see my message and donate ten rupees each, which would eventually generate a fund of around one hundred thousand rupees.

Until this point, I had kept my plans secret. It was only when I began distributing the seventeen thousands cards that one by one, my family and friends came to know about the expedition. It caused shock waves! During the time of the card distribution, I began approaching newspaper offices, raising the awareness of my expedition and trying to gather support. My results were not what I had imagined. Although I worked extremely hard to distribute the cards, I could not collect more than two to three thousand rupees, which disappeared on petrol expenses during the delivery. Despite my results, I was happy that I had successfully spread my message. I distributed fifteen thousand free cards. I saved the last two thousand with the idea of cutting out my message and the images and giving them to schools along the way. The cards ended up being a bit bigger than the size of a visiting card.

I reached a turning point during the distribution work when I had a chance meeting with Rotarian Nilesh Kapadia. He was a great man and he admired my courage. Up until this point, I had only been an inactive member of the Rotaract Club. Mr Nilesh explained the ways in which I could seek help from Rotary. He aided me in seeking the help of Rotarians all over Asia and Australia. I became a believer that if there is a will to do, there is always a way to achieve - only when we continue trying until we achieve our goals. I was training heavily at the Ajintha Sports Club, preparing myself both physically and mentally for the expedition. During this time my teachers, Mr Vijay Lokhande, Mr Todewale, Mr Khandre, Mr Supekar, the very dear Mr Sandeep Wardhave "Mannu Sir", Ms Sanjeevani Wardhave "Sanju Tai" and my friends all worked hard to keep my morale high. I was then granted twenty-five thousand rupees by the City Municipal Corporator and the District Member of Parliament. This was the amount of money I carried on my trip to Delhi in November, where I began the final stages of preparation for the expedition.

I spent close to a month in Delhi. I had planned to obtain all the necessary visas from the various embassies in the capital and spent a full week contacting fourteen different embassies, but each one gave me the same answer. It would be impossible to issue a visa from India, as the visa would expire before my arrival to the country in question. I was even turned away by the Sri Lankan embassy, which was to be the first country I would visit after India, for this same reason. After studying my expedition program, they realised that I would be passing through Delhi again in January, so I was advised to return to the embassy at that time. I also had to complete a lot of paper work at the Ministry of External Affairs, to obtain what is called a "No Objection Certificate" or NOC, allowing me easier entry into each country. At this time I also met with Mr Sukhbir Singh, who spent nearly a month to organise the grant of a simple letter called a Certificate. I late found out that it was completely useless, as it was not marked with the National letterhead or official seal of the government of India. This final event strengthened my resolve to move ahead with the expedition without governmental help.

During my stay in Delhi, I met a lot of important people. The first was the Minister for Environment, Mr Suresh Prabhu, but he was unable to offer me any assistance. The second was the Deputy Director for the Ministry of Youth Affairs and Sports, Mrs Meenkashi Sharma, who directed me to the government schemes that provided financial assistance to promote adventurous activities. She aided me in the production of the necessary documentation to apply for the grants, but I was rejected on the grounds that walking did not constitute adventure. Still recognising my dedication, Mrs Sharma introduced me to Mr Satya Paul, a freedom fighter and life member of Servants of the People Society. She asked him to help me. Mr Paul who was still highly active at his near to eighty years of age, was a kind and principled man. He believed in "Simple living but High thinking". He was also well connected to the President of India, Shri K R Narayanan. I explained to Mr Paul the details of the expedition and he offered me a lot of encouragement. Later as he was going to meet President Narayanan, he asked one of his members of staff to give me names and addresses for people in all the Indian cities that I would visit. In addition to this, he also prepared a letter to be sent to all the people whose addresses I had been granted. I thanked God that I was meeting so many wonderful people with the generosity offered by those like Mr Paul.

I was running out of time, as it was now the beginning of December. I decided to visit the WWF-India office to ask for expedition equipment. I took along my letter from Deborah Denhardt and was impressed to see the impact it had on the people there, it was unbelievable! I received quiet a lot of respect from a number of officers there and it was funny that they asked me why I had not contacted their office before. I re-told them my story of how I had sent them faxes, e-mails and also phoned them all to no avail. One of them remembered that they had received my mail but had not taken it seriously. I was taken to meet the Secretary of WWF. Mr Samar Singh. He invited me to visit the Nature shop and asked me to select the necessary equipment for the expedition. I was given a rucksack, sleeping mat, sleeping bag and a wind breaker. The total value of all this was in the region of three thousand rupees but I got it all for free! WWF- India also wrote me a letter of recommendation. I thanked Mr Samar Singh and found myself fully prepared.


The Golden Day!

17th December, 1998 - The Golden Day!

Why did I choose to start the expedition from the city of Agra?

Taj Mahal is one of the most beautiful and costly tombs in the world. The Indian Ruler, Shah Jahan built the monument in memory of his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal who died in 1629 A.D. The tomb stands near the city of Agra, in northern India, on the south bank of the Yamuna River. About twenty thousand workers were employed in its construction and it was completed after twenty years by approximately 1650.

According to local folklore, a Turkish architect designed the Taj Mahal. It is made of white marble and rests on a platform of red sandstone. At each corner of the bottom platform stands a slender minaret (prayer tower). Each Tower is 40.5 metres high. The building itself is almost 57 square feet. A dome covers the centre of the building and it is over 21 metres in diameter and 36.5 metres high. Passages from the Muslim Holy Book, the "Quran", decorates the outside along with in laid floral patterns. A central room contains two cenotaphs (monuments). Visitors can see the monuments through a carved alabaster screen and the bodies of Shah Jahan and his wife lie in a vault below. The tomb stands in a garden.

At present, the pollution in Agra is making the Taj Mahal lose its lustre. It is therefore a fitting example of pollution and how it relates to my mission. My earlier plan was to start the expedition on New Years day of 1999. However coincidentally there was a meeting being hosted by the Rotaract Club, which as I explained earlier is a youth wing of the Rotary Club. Seeing as I was a member of Rotaract I was able to attend. The meeting was called "ROTASIA", this is where members from South East Asia are supposed to join. It was of utmost importance for me to attend the meeting seeing as I was trying to build contacts with the members from various part of the country for my expedition.

It was such a pleasant morning and I managed to address the meeting and asked all the members to support me during the expedition whenever I reached their respective countries. The members in attendance had come from us far a field as Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Nepal and of course India.

I was garlanded and all the Rotaract members wished me luck and gave me their business cards in order for me to visit them as I stopped in their various towns and cities. Many of them also wanted to become members of WWR- International. I had the letter from WWF- International stating that " I would raise funds for the protection of nature during my South East Asia Expedition by contacting people and asking them to become members". There was of course a small problem when it came to collecting the money seeing as I did not have any official receipts to offer in exchange for the money. I decided that it would be easier for me to give out the Membership forms to any interested people then they could apply directly to WWF.

Finally Rotarian Garry C.K. Hawng of Tiwan, flagged me off and the journey began! I felt great when people would stop to stare at me out of curiosity as I walked. I enjoyed walking through the cities as well as walking on the highway. On my first day, I had my lunch at a Dhaba , which is a Highway hotel. As soon as I explained my mission to the owner of the hotel, he refused to charge me for my food. After walking and hitch-hiking, I reached Mathura, my first destination by 9:30 evening, the holy place of the Hindus and the birth place of God Shri Krishna. I went to the police station and asked them for help to find lodgings at an Asylum, this is a free guest house which is normally frequented by pilgrims. The Police Inspector was a very kind and understanding fellow, he instructed two of his sub-ordinates to escort me to the Asylum. The Manager there was not such a trusting fellow and he immediately asked to see all my documents and also made sure to search my rucksack before agreeing to let me spend the night there. I had my own bedding so I slept on the floor.


The Journey

The next two nights were also spent in different Asylums, one in Hodal and the other in Faridabad, which was on the way to Pattikalyana.

On the morning of December 20th, I got up early in order to continue my journey. The mornings were a bit problematic because of the heavy fog. I shall never forget those dark icy mornings, which I had to endure at the beginning of my walk. At night the temperature would be at around four degrees, but on the whole I didn't really mind the weather because it was encouraging for walking. On my way I once again had food at another Dhaba, free of charge again. It seemed like I wasn't actually paying for my food most of the time. Normally the people at the Dhabas would be curious about my walking and ofcourse the big rucksack on my back. They were all eager and interested to know what I was doing. As soon as the silence was broken and their curiosity satisfied, they would ask me not to pay for the food that I ordered. People were very kind, supportive and encouraging. I enjoyed walking in the cold fresh atmosphere, I found that this didn't seem to tire me out so much. I reached the village of Pattikalyana after walking and hitch-hiking at about 7:00 pm that evening. I went to the Gandhi Ashram, which was on the highway and asked at one of the houses for Mr Mahavir Tyagi , who I had been referred to by Mr Paul. Coincidentally this house belonged to a neighbour of Mr Tyagi. This family were very kind and allowed me to wait at their house for Mr Tyagi who was only expected home later that night. I showed them my letter from Mr Satya Paul and this caused a lot of excitement. As it was rather late and Mr Tyagi had still not returned, the family kindly put me up and even served me with a very good dinner. There were three children all under the age of twelve and they immediately took to me and were calling me Bhiyya, big brother in next to no time. I played with the children for a while before I was shown to the guest house where I would spend the night. The three children dropped me there. I asked them to come back for me in the morning. It was rather lonely there and there was no electricity due to an electrical failure. Some-one knocked at the door and identified himself as Mr Tyagi, when I opened the door, a young man in his thirties stood there, he was the son of Mr Mahavir Tyagi. He introduced himself and said his name was Adesh, since it was already quite late, he told me I could call him in case I needed anything then five minutes later he was gone.

On Monday morning, as the three children had promised, they were there early to pick me up. As I was not quite ready I asked them to wait for about five minutes, then we went for a morning run, after that we went inside to an exercise room. They tried to copy what I was doing and I showed them some simple exercises. There were totally adorable and I was in love with them. I think they felt the same way about me seeing as they didn't want to leave my side. I went back and had an ice cold bath. After a while some-one came to call me for breakfast. He served me with four hot Parothas, (flat bread) which were great! Meanwhile Mr Tyagi was also waiting for me to have breakfast with him at his house. I explained to him that I already had breakfast in the canteen but he insisted that I should go to his house. His wife served me noodles with milk. So I had a heavy breakfast. We spent some time talking about the expedition and I enquired about the Ashram, where social workers stay.

Pt. Omprakash Trikaha, who was the founder, died on the 10th November, 1985. He built the Ashram in memory of Mahatma Gandhi. The area covers around twenty acres. It is a famous Prakrutik Chikitsa Kendra (Naturopathy Centre) where all diseases mainly obesity and stomach problems are cured. In Ashram you won't find any servants apart from the workers working on the farm, gardening and cooking, otherwise everyone does their own work. There is a primary school, a post office, a bank and an Orphanage. There is also a small unit of handmade paper production and Khadi , Indian Handloom cloth. It is a fully prohibited area, no alcohol or smoking is allowed here. Therefore if any one wants to get cured at Ashram, they are not allowed to smoke or drink.

The fifth day of my expedition. My next destination was 30 Kilometres away. I decided to start the walk after lunch. Ever since I left Agra, I seemed to be experiencing a lot of different things, whatever I was doing was the first time in my life. For lunch I had Makke ki Roti and Sarso ka Saag ,which is a famous and very tasty Punjabi dish.

After lunch I thanked all the family members and blessed my little friends. It was time to move on to Panipat. Those affectionate kids asked me when I would next come back, but I couldn't answer their question. I really had developed a strong relationship with all of them. They tried to persuade me to stay for another day, but I had my program to adhere to and that would not allow me to linger along the way with out good reason. It was 2:00 pm by the time I left for Panipat, which I must say was quite late. Having started off so late, it was going to be impossible for me to make to cover 30 Kilometres by early evening. I thought I should probably hike in the evening, but I hadn't realised how difficult it is to hike in the dark. People seemed to be scared of my rucksack, probably thinking that I might be a terrorist or something. I had no choice but to take the risk and continue walking even though it was very foggy. It was the first time I had walked till 11:30 at night. It was scary and dangerous but I had no alternative. Moreover, I made myself strong that I crossed the level of scariness and fear of dying. I could walk because of the vehicles, yes, it was a busy highway and so I could a little with the help of lights from passing vehicles. At last at 11.30 pm, I saw a few hotels and small shops. I took this as a sign that I was now approaching the town of Panipat. I made a call from a Telephone booth to Mr Ram Mohan Rai, whom I had been referred to by Mr Adesh Tyagi. Mr Tyagi had already spoken to him about me. I asked him for the directions to his house where I was to spend the night. It was such a dark and foggy night and I am sure that had I attempted to find the house on my own, I would surely have lost my way. I was therefore fortunate to have some-one from the Dhaba (a small hotel) escort and show me the way. Mr. Rai was in the house so I was given his office room to use as my sleeping quarters.

It was also at Mr Rai's house that I met Mr Hyder, a journalist from Pakistan. During my brealkfast of "Parotha's", which I loved, I spent some time talking to Mr Hyder on various topics concerning India and Pakistan.


Spreading the message

Apart from being an advocate, Mr Rai was also manager of the Arya Sr School, so he spoke to the Principal and asked to make arrangements for me to give a speech at the school. The Principal asked him to send me at 12 Noon. This was the first school that I had visited during my expedition thus far where I delivered my message to more than five hundred students. Initially I spoke for approximately twenty-five minutes and at the end I asked the students to clean up the school within five minutes, with the permission of the Principal of course! The students were extremely enthusiastic and managed to collect quite a lot of garbage within the five minutes.

Later they sat down and I then explained that if all the students from one school could clean up two acres of land within five minutes, then it was possible for all the schools to clean the whole city in a matter of hours. The teachers, students and Principal were all impressed with my speech. I distributed posters and stickers to the school as a memento. I asked the students to remember me and my talk, by looking at the posters and stickers and trying to help for the betterment of our surrounding enviroment. After the speech, the Principal, Mr Deepchand Niromhi who was a writer of Hindi and wrote many books asked me to come to his office. He praised me to the speech that I had made and offered me snacks before leaving for the school.

I came back to the house and spent some time with Mr Rai's children. The elder one Sulabha was fourteen years old, the middle one Sanghmitra was eleven and the youngest and naughtiest Utkarsh was eight. Here also every one loved me and called me "Bhiya". I spent a whole evening playing with the children. I called up Rtr. Gupta from the Rotaract International Directory and explained my purpose to him and also gave him Mr Rai's telephone number. He told me he would call me back. In the evening Rotaract Clubs President Rtr. Mukul Sharma called when he came to know that I was staying with Mr Rai. He was angry and said he would be coming to Mr Rai's house. He came over with another Rotaract member, Rtr Ashutosh at eight o'clock and told Mrs Rai that he would like to take me with them, but all the children and Mrs Rai persuaded me to stay. Anyhow I convinced her that I had to go and she only agreed to that on the condition that I would only leave after dinner. I had a small portion of food for dinner because I knew that I would also be having dinner later with Rtr Mukul. After thanking the Rai family, I left and went with Mr Mukul and Mr Ashutosh. They took me to a five star hotel and I was shocked. When we got inside the hotel, in the dimly lit room, there were four more Rotaractors already waiting for us. I was introduced to everyone. I noticed that the gentlemen who were sitting were from very rich families. All of them had factories. They were all having drinks, so I had a beer with them. Actually it was Rtr Mukul Sharma's birthday party. We packed the dinner and had it at Rtr Punit Gupta's house. At midnight, we all wished Rtr Mukul Sharma a happy birthday. I enjoyed my time with all those Rotaract members. We spent the night in Rtr Punit's Bungalow.

The next day I wanted to go to Nilokhedi (45Km), 10 Km from Karnal. At around 4 O'clock , I crossed Karnal; the weather was clear, no fog but just after half an hour the weather became foggy and after another half an hour, it was getting dark. I was enjoying every minute of my life. I reached Nilokhedi in the evening at around 5.30 pm. I contacted Mr Tajveer Singh who I had been referred to by Mr Tyagi from the Gandhi Ashram. I explained to him that Mr Tyagi has requested for me to accommodate. He immediately welcomed me and took me to his house. He was a driver, living in the workers quarters. It was a very small house, but he was very kind. This small house was occupied by himself, his wife and their two children. I never wanted to disturb anyone, so I told him that I always slept on the floor and carried my own bedding. I had a healthy dinner and slept. I realised that there was no point getting up early in the morning because I could not walk in such foggy weather. Where visibility was down to zero. It could also prove to be quite dangerous because a car could easily hit you. So I waited and after a heavy breakfast walked towards Ambala which was approximately 50Km away. I started my walk at 08.30 am. On the walk, I saw many vehicles which had fallen by the road side and yet still more vehicles were on the road dividers. Few were in such a funny condition that one could not help but laugh. Especially when one thought of how the accident might have occurred. It was on the one hand rather funny but on the other quite bad. In the evening I reached the DDR (District Rotaract Representative – the person in charge of the Rotaract club in a particular district). Mr Vivek Dureja, (met me in Agra and gave me his visiting card ). He was not at home but his mother welcomed me and offered me snacks with a glass of milk. Meanwhile she also tried to contact some Rotaract members. She succeeded in contacting one of them, who was Rtr. Niraj. She asked him to come. When he came, I explained to him about the expedition, he found me very interesting and took me to his house. He called 3-4 more Rotaractors at his house. One of them wanted to stay at his house, Rtr. Kamal hosted me for the night. His family welcomed me and took care of me.

On Christmas day, there was a function organised by all the Rotaract Clubs in Ambala. The Rotaractors made me the guest of honour and I was happy to get a chair on the dias. I enjoyed the program and activities they had planned. I met Rtr Vivek Dureja at the function. At the end of the program I delivered my message to the entire club members and even at the Rotary meeting. The next day, Ambala Rotaractors presented me with a nice woollen sweater. I had a windbreaker, but the woollen sweater kept me warm from the inside. I was shown a lot of love by all the members. I thanked all of them and moved on to my next destination, Chandigarh which was another 50 Km away. I walked and reached Chandigarh in the evening at around 7 o'clock. I had managed to use short cuts along the way so I was quite happy with myself. The city was still a good 5 Km away. I went to the newspaper office of "The Tribune" where I contacted a reporter who interviewed me. Then I called up a few Rotaractors but no one responded. In the end a girl Rtr. Gurminder sent two members to the news office. I explained to them and requested them to drop me at Lajpat Bhavan. I gave Mr Chand a call ( Ref- Satya Paul - Servants of the people society- New Delhi) and explained in short and gave reference of Mr Satya Paul. He asked me to go to his place. The boys who had come for me were driving so they were able to give me a lift. They dropped me off and told me that they would come back to pick me up for the project the next day. (Hepatitis-B vaccination).

Mr and Mrs Chand welcomed me. Mr Chand was about 70 to 75 years old. He asked his servant to show me to the guestroom. The room was very big, infact it could have easily accommodated four or five people. I freshened up and went downstairs for dinner. Mr Chand ate boiled vegetables, where as I ate Roti and cooked vegetables. Mrs Chand enquired a lot about the expedition and said she would prepare Maharashtrian food the next day. (As India is divided into 28 states so each state has it's own speciality, Maharashtra is one of the 28 States.) It was very cold in Chandigarh. Mr and Mrs Chand were extremely caring people. Rtr Gurminderm, the female Roaractor with whom I had spoken with the day before came to pick me up at the venue. There were around 25 Rotaract members in all. They welcomed me and presented me with a bouquet of flowers and also asked me to cut the cake. It was again an unbelievable welcome by Rotaract Club members. The project continued for more than two hours. I spent a good time with the members. Ms Gurminder dropped me off back at Lajpat Bhavan.

It was lunch time and uncle and aunty were having lunch with one more person. I joined them for lunch and we had a long discussion on environment and policies of government. In those days there was news about Himachal Pradesh ( a state in India) Government banning plastic bags in the state. The discussion was on a lot of other topics too. It was nice to listen to experienced people.

Chandigarh is one of the most beautiful cities in India. The Swiss born architect Le Corbusier designed Chandigarh. It is laid out in rectangular sectors integrated by a grid of streets designed for fast traffic. Chandigarh derives its name from temple dedicated to the Hindu Goddess, Chandi. Her shrine stands on a small hill about 10 Kilometres from the city. Chandigarh was only a small village, when the planning for the new city began in 1947. Construction of the city started in the 1950's. By the early 1970's, the modern city had been largely completed. Chandigarh has about 3 000 hectares of land under cultivation. Maize, wheat, potatoes and rice are the main crops. Forests cover about one fourth of the area. I visited the famous rock garden, which was made up by used and waste material by Mr Nek Chand, the garden is world famous. I also visited the Rose garden and enjoyed it very much. At night, I had Maharashtrian dinner as per aunt's promise.

Next day after breakfast, aunty and uncle blessed me and aunty asked me to come back again after the end of the expedition. Both loved me a lot and considered me as a part of their family. I thanked them for their hospitality and moved onwards to Ludhiyana about 100Km away. I saw a lot of Animals - Bulls and Buffaloes working on farms. People use Horse's for carrying goods and few people beat them crudely. They weigh the animals down with more than double their own weight full of goods and expect the poor animals to be fast with the carrying and delivery. I used to get angry seeing such things. On the Delhi - Chandigarh route, I had found lots of trees but as any village or town starts, the trees disappear. As soon as I entered Punjab State, I got to see a lot of farming activity. The scene was beautiful and peaceful for the eyes. I reached Ludhiyana by walking and hitch hiking. There I visited Mr Shrawan Kumar's company and met his son, who told me about the Ashram and took me to the Ashram of mr Shrawan Kumar ( Ref - Satya Paul - Servants of the people society). He was around 70 years old and running the Ashram with the help of 6-7 friends of a similar age. Everyone called Babuji. This is a respectful term for an old man. He welcomed me and I gave him the letter from Shri Satya Paul. He asked one lady to accommodate me in the guest room. Babuji spoke to one of the Rotary Club members when I mentioned the Rotary Club. The Rotarian asked me to go to the Girls College (at the blood donation camp) on the 29th December at 12:30. It was almost 8 o'clock. I could hear very sweet Bhajans (hymns) in the morning. I saw few old people singing with the musical instuments in very low voices without creating any noise. I was eager to know more about those people who were in the Ashram. Mr Ashok told me that the old people were picked up from the Ashram bus station, railway station and from the market. The Ashram takes care of them for a few days and try to find out their home addresses. They then visit their homes and try to convince their children to take care of them. Of course, it's not so easy and sometimes they had to be forceful too. I had a very heavy breakfast with a glass of milk. Babuji came with almost all the executive members of " Nishkam Sewa " Ashram. Every morning all the members would meet to discuss and solve the problems as well as to make plans for the future. Babuji introduced me to each one of them. Each one was from a different profession. There was an Industrialist, a Doctor, a Bank Manager, a retired Colonel and others were Government officials. All were above 70 years old. They all had terrific life experiences. They were ambitious and their dream was to make society a better place to live in and to try to give happiness to as many people as they possibly could.

The Nishkam Sewa Ashram is involved in the following works:- a Home for the aged, eye and dental Hospitals, Dispensaries, Allopathic and Homeopathic, school for street children in slums, school and sheltered workshop for the mentally retarded children, day care centre for the aged, supply of clothes and woollens to the poor and needy. I spent a lot of time learning about the work done by the Nishkam Sewa Ashram. At 12.15, Mr Ashok, the manager cum driver, and a trustworthy person of the Ashram; who does all the work, dropped me off at the Ramgariya Girls College, the venue of the Blood Donation Camp. Rotary club members welcomed me and I found it was a very big function. Few renowned personalities were present with the NCC (National Cadet Core - an organisation which imparts military training to civilians) Commander, and many NCC girl cadets along with teachers and Rotary Club Members. The crowd was not less than five hundred. I distributed the Message cards (The one little bigger than visiting cards) to the students. Obviously I could not make a long speech, as the subject matter of the function was different. I started with "Respected elders and my dear sisters". I spoke for ten minutes. It was a brief and polite speech and everybody appreciated it. Even I was happy the way I delivered my message. I received a standing ovation. After the function, many girls called me Bhaiya , which means brother, and they enquired about the expedition. I could imagine the power of one word that brought me close to all the girls. I spent almost three hours with the girls and came to know that the NCC students were from all the colleges of Ludhiyana. The camp was for 10-12 days. Lots of girls asked me about the membership of WWF. I was carrying WWF India membership forms and distributed a few of them and told them to get photocopies if need be. I was satisfied to deliver my message to all the colleges in Ludhiyana. From Ramgaria College to the Ashram, there was on Pakhowal road. I walked and noticed very few trees in the city. Lots of Small scale industries were in the city area, which makes lots of pollution. It was a dirty city. On the highway, I saw three wheelers running and making tremendous pollution. When the government takes any strict action against polluters, three wheelers demonstrate on the streets or they call on "Strikes" or "Bandh", this is when the whole city is closed for the day. They do not want to maintain their vehicles and they do not care for mother earth. The poor people should also be educated. I reached the Ashram at 7pm and it took two hours for me to reach there. Babuji told me to be ready the next morning before 6.15, as everyone would be going to the camp in a village Manakpur Gaon.

The previous night, I had to get up three times, but each time before 5.00am and when I wanted to get up I was in deep sleep. Mr Ashok knocked the door and shouted at 6.15. I requested him to wait for five minutes. Without having a bath, I went with him outside there was a dense fog. I realised how difficult it was to drive in the dark. We were going at a speed of not even 10km/h. Mr Ashok told me that, because of fog we left early, otherwise it does not take much time. We picked up four members including Babuji one by one from their houses. By the time we collected everyone, the visibility on the road had increased. We went to Manakpur Gaon, a village in Rajpur district and reached there at 9 o'clock, even though the distance was just 80 Km from Ludhiyana. Nishkam Sewa Ashram and Red cross society organised the camp jointly. The camp was for handicapped and Polio patients, children as well as elders. All the villagers and Mr Rajeev Vasishtha, a member of the Nishkam family, welcomed us. The camp was at the National Public school. We put banners of "Nishkam" and " Red Cross". Then Mr Ashok and myself went to pick up a few more peoplein Mohali town. Mr Ashok was a very nice and hardworking man. He was staying in the Ashram itself, with his wife and child. He took me along to a lot of places, seeing as he seemed to enjoy my company. We had breakfast at Mr Rajeev Vasishta's house and came back to the camp site with a few people. The programme had already started and many children and adults were there. I really saw what kind of hard work one has to put in for arranging the camp. I learned a lot from these great people. I came to know that some of the handicapped were going to get tricycles, operations free of charge and much more. The camp provided breakfast and lunch for everyone. Mr Vasishtha and his team also did a great job. I was very happy and thanked God for sending me amongst those people to know about life in such a close way. All the members of Nishkam have devoted their lives to the betterment of the society and are doing great social work.

We came back to Ashram in the evening. The camp was successful. I knew what kind of great satisfaction people get after doing good work. It was the same satisfied feeling I had, after the speeches made in schools throughout my journey. Fog was not going to leave me. It had continuously followed me since Agra. Next day morning When Babuji came, I thanked him for the very close exposure to life. He blessed me for the further journey and asked Mr Ashok to drop me on the Jalandhar Highway. Jalandhar was approximately 60Km away. I reached there in the evening, before getting in trouble with the fog. On the way, I went to the office of All India Radio. A lady interviewed me and told me to listen to the news on the first of January at 7.20am. Then I went to the Newspaper office of "Punjab Kesari" to meet Mr Vijay Chopra, (Ref- Satya Paul- Servants of the people society) Editor in Chief. Mr Satya Paul also informed him, so I didn't face any problems, he asked one of the Reporters to interview me and to also take a photograph of me. He then asked his secretary to help me sort out my accommodation. Mr Chopra was a busy person and he could not spend much time with me. The Reporter took my interview with the photograph and the secretary provided me with a letter of recommendation for accommodation in Devi Talav Dharamshal (Asylum). After an hour's walk, I reached the Asylum and got the room after showing the letter. Devi Talav Temple is one of the biggest temples in the city. It is a famous and well known pilgrim place in India. I had dinner in the temple free of charge, as the temple provides lunch and dinner to thousands of people free of charge.

Since the beginning of my journey, I got various experiences. People used to think that I was a salesman selling something. Here is one of the funniest experiences that I had. It was 31 of December, I was passing through the market towards Devi Talav Temple I almost crossed the market, suddenly a boy came running and told me that a man wanted to see me. I asked him the purpose, but he didn't know. I was a bit irritated because I hated the thought of having to walk back. But I still went back and asked the man. Do you know what he asked me? Can you guess? The man asked "Are you searching for a job?" I did not reply, I just gave him a bitter smile and walked away. Actually it wasn't his fault. He was a kind person and might have thought to help me by providing me with a job.

People celebrate the 31st of December by enjoying themselves, going out to parties in hotels and other places. I celebrated it at the feet of God. The 1st of January 1999 was memorable for me. I spent time in the Temple and prayed for peace amongst mankind, happiness and a long life. Since my expedition was supported by so many people. It was very cold because I was headed towards the north, but the sweater was of great help to me. Once I started walking , I really enjoyed myself and also kept warm from the movement. I left the asylum and walked towards the highway to Amritsar a place about 90 Km away. I spent a night at Bias Ashram, which is approximately 50 Km from Jalandhar. The Ashram was on the highway and the saints were very kind. They helped me to spend the night. The next day, I moved on towards Amrisar and reached it in the evening at 5 pm. It was hardly 35-40 Km from Bias Ashram. The Rotaract club members, Sameer Chatkara and Tarandeep Singh (whom I met in Agra) both had their shops near the Golden Temple. I asked them to help me contact Laxmikanta Chowla (a Politician M.L.A, ref -Satya Paul- Servants of the people society) for accommodation. She called the Vice Chancellor of Gurunanak Dev University and confirmed the accommodation in one of the guest houses of the Boys hostel in the University. I thanked her and went off to the guest house. I had dinner at Tarandeep's house. Sameer and Tarandeep both dropped me at the guest house at the University. It was 10 pm, and it was extremely cold.

The next morning I contacted Mr Harbhajan Singh, Soch Vice Chancellor of the university and thanked him for the accommodation. I spent most of the time with the Rotaractors and saw my news on the 2nd of January's "Punjab Kesari" newspaper. I visited another historic place, which is the Golden Temple along with Rotaractors manish and Harnam.


The Golden Temple

Golden Temple is the holiest shrine of the Sikh religion. More than 75% is covered with Gold plates. The site has been sacred to Sikhs since the time of the fourth Guru in 1577. Guru Ram was heard that a cripple had been cured by a miracle at a small pool on the site. He enlarged the pool, which eventually became the focus of the new temple and town. The Sikh ruler Ranjit Singh (1799-1839) had the Temple rebuilt in marble with a gilded dome. The four doors of the Temple are always open. The holy book, the Guru Granth Sahib, is kept on the ground floor. The Temple has been the main centre of Sikh devotion. It stands in the middle of a tank (pool), whose fresh water changes all the time. The city was named after the tank, which was called Amritsar, meaning the tank of nectar or immortality.

I saw the part, which was reconstructed after 1984. In 1984, the Golden Temple was fortified by a group of Sikh extremists, led by a young preacher called Sant Jarnail Singh Bhindranwale. He and his followers used the sanctuary of the Temple complex as a base for terrorist attacks. In June of that year, the Indian army stormed and captured the Temple. As a result of the battle, many buildings in the Temple complex were destroyed. This punitive campaign by the government caused bitter resentment among Sikhs throughout the world.


The Jallianwala Bagh Massacre

Then we went to Jallianwala Bagh (we used to read about it in the history books at school. It is about the Massacre in Jalliwala Bagh). Inside I saw, there were really heartbreaking scenes. There was a museum where a few wounded people had written their experiences like a widow explains the scene of the day a young person explaining about his fight for saving injured people etc. One cannot stop tears running down ones face as one reads it. I saw a well, the platform and the bullet marks on the wall. Here I have written some brief about the Jallianwala Bagh Massacre.......April 13, 1919, the day of baisakhi festival, a day of celebrations for beginning of harvest of golden crop of wheat, which shook Gandhi's faith in British justice and the moderate Ghandi had to change his way of thinking.

The holocaust at Jallianwalla Bagh, where thousands of innocent people were killed, still evokes painful memories. Time obviously has not healed the wounds.

THE MASSACRE A huge crowd gathered at Jallianwala Bagh on April 13, 1919, on this fateful morning. Gen Dyer marched through the bazaars and streets of Amritsar making a show of his strength. A number of proclamations were read that no person was permitted to leave the city without a pass and that any person found in the streets after 8.00 P.M. was liable to be shot. All processions were banned and any such gathering would be dispersed by force of arms. On the heels of Dyer's procession, counter proclamation was made asking people to assemble at Jallianwala Bagh in the afternoon at 4.00 P.M. and Lala Kanahiya lal would preside over the meeting. It is believed that the British govt. out of a spirit of vengeance, made use of an agent provocateur, Hans Raj to organize this meeting. As the announcement was made in the name of the nationalist movement, the masses were taken in and they gathered in Jallianwala Bagh in large numbers. People had started pouring in the Bagh after 2.00 P.M, although the meeting was at 4.00 P.M.

Gen. Dyer had deployed all the available troops at every strategic point. He received the news that a large number of people had assembled and Mr. Rehill, the Superintendent of Police confirm the information. The general set out for the most important journey of his life, which was crucial for him as well as the people of India. Behind his car followed two armoured cars, followed by the police car with Rehill and Plomer. They proceeded to the Bagh and finding the alley too narrow. Dyer entered the Bagh along with his soldiers on foot, leaving the armoured cars in the Bazar (Market). Gen Dyer had made up his mind about the action to be taken and did not need any reason or provocation to commit the murderous act.

In 1919, the Jallianwala Bagh was no 'Garden', but a desolate piece of land- a rectangle of irregular shape, about 229 meters long and 183 meters wide. This area had once belonged to one Bhai Hamit Singh Jallawala, a courtier of Raja Jaswant Singh of Nabha, who had been an advocate in the service of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Jallianwala Bagh follows from the name of owner. It was used as a dumping ground and not even the oldest living citizen of Amritsar has any recollection now whether it had ever really been a garden. The Bagh, sunk below the level of the city, was situated in its centre and was surrounded by narrow lanes. Long before 1919, houses had been built all around the Bagh with their back walls towards it. It has three or four openings, through which people could pass without much inconvenience. Between the houses, parts of the boundary wall were low enough to lean over. Opposite the main entrance, there were no houses for about a hundred feet and a low brick and mud wall, about five feet high marked off this portion. To the right, there was another low wall made of mud. The Bagh contained one small smadh towards the southern side, with four small trees growing near it, and an open wall of quite big dimensions towards its eastern boundary.

The strip of land near the entrance was on a higher level. Dyer at once deployed his troops- twenty-five on the right and twenty-five on the left. About twenty thousand people were present at this time. The picture of Dr. Kitchlew had been put up. The C.I.D. people were also on the spot. Hans Raj who had arranged the meeting, addressed the crowd. He assured them that they need not have any fears and that the meeting had been called to pass two resolutions. The first resolution called for the repeal of the Rowlett Act, and the second, condemning the firing of 10th April, extended sympathy to the relatives of the dead. An airplane with a flag was seen hovering over the Jallianwala Bagh at about 4.00 P.M. It was believed to be a signal for the C.I.D. people to disperse. The people got panicky and began to move, but the speaker assured them that there was no cause for panic. They had begun to sit down again, when they saw soldiers standing with guns on the raised platform, not far from the meeting. All this happened within thirty seconds. The General instantly ordered his soldiers to open fire. Fifty soldiers knelt, raised their rifles, took aim and fired a volley into the heart of the large gathering, close to the platform. People realized at once that they were caught in a death trap. Within no time, the vast crowd rose in a wave, and rushed madly on all side to escape from the hail of bullets. On all sides, the barriers of house walls dammed up the tide of rushing crowds. People who knew about the small exits rushed in hundreds towards them. Seeing this onrush towards the exits, Dyer directed his soldiers to fire at those points. Many people died at the mouths of these exits as a result of firing, while the on rushing crowds trampled many others down. Many people attempted to jump over the five-foot high boundary wall on the opposite side to escape, but only a few could do so. Many were hit by the bullets and fell back, dead or wounded. Many children and elderly people lost their lives by being crushed under the feet of the running crowds. Many people also ran in the direction in which a well was situated in the Bagh, and blinded by terror and unable to arrest their momentum, fell into it, as unfortunately, it had no protection wall around it in those days.

The firing continued for ten to fifteen minutes and ceased only after the ammunition ran out; 1,650 rounds were fired i.e. around 33 rounds per rifleman. Dyer admitted later that if more ammunition had been available, that too, would have been spent on the people. The exact number of people who were killed will never be known. More than eight hundred were estimated to have been killed according to official figures and thousands were wounded. Piteous and heart rending cries were rising from the hundreds of wounded people, but there was nobody to give them water or any kind of relief or assistance. Hundreds of people were in the throes of death, but could not be saved because curfew time was approaching. Dyer had never doubted the correctness and reasonable-ness of his action on April 19, 1919, Martial law was proclaimed and reign of terror was let loose on the citizens of Amritsar irrespective of their age, sex, cast to creed. As censorship was imposed, it took quite sometime for the news of Jallianwala Bagh Massacre and the uprising in Punjab as a whole, to reach the world. "This disproportionate severity of punishment inflicted upon the unfortunate people and method of carrying it out is without parallel in the history of civilized govt., barring some conspicuous exceptions, recent or remote." Wrote Rabindranath Tagore to the Viceroy while returning his knighthood. So, roused was Thakur by "the agony of indignation" that he told the British rulers, "The time has come when badges of honour make our shame glaring in their incongruous context of humiliation, and I, for my part, wish to stand, shorn of all special distinctions. The least I can do for my country is to take all consequences upon myself in giving voice to the protest of the millions of my countrymen, dumb founded by the terror unleashed." Under growing public pressure at home and throughout the world, Britain ordered an impartial enquiry into the Jallianwala Bagh holocaust. Lord Hunter spearheaded the commission of enquiry. After 29 sessions in Lahore, the hunter commission denounced Gen. Dyer and pilloried him. The House of Commons rebuked and condemned Gen. Dyer. The House of Lords eulogized him. In an outrageous fashion, encomiums were offered to Gen. Dyer. The British Daily newspaper, "The morning Post" floated a public fund and raised money for "the man who committed a Great Crime in the name of law."

However, among many, who condemned the ghostly act, were many Englishmen themselves. They have poured forth their feeling in genuine expression of sympathy. Wrote Donald Cunningham in the visitors' book in 1938. "I am filled with remorse for my race after visiting this place. I feel that every Indian in the street looks at me as a member of a community of murders". Another inscription in the books read: "I am ashamed to be an Englishman when I hear of mass murders committed with more pride as I bear the name of civilized." The long cherished dream of freedom became a reality after 28 years of the sacrifice of those who laid down their lives so that people may enjoy freedom, at the Jallianwala Bagh. A memorial, a pylon stands on 18 feet deep foundations, with four large stone lanterns, which flank the pylon. This is the most hallowed of all national monuments. It epitomizes as nothing else does India's epic struggle for freedom, Independence and sovereignty. It symbolizes India's trust with her destiny. In all the four sides of the memorial, the words: "In memory of martyrs-13th April, 1919" have been written in Punjabi, Hindi, English and Urdu. "The impossible men of India shall rise and liberate their Motherland" declared Mahatma Gandhi, after the Jallianwala Bagh Massacre.

After spending almost whole day at Golden Temple and Jallianwala Bagh, we came back. I could not visit any School because of Winter Holidays. Next day, I spent some time at the football ground where a few teams were doing practice. There were university tournaments going on, but Sunday was the rest day so no matches were being played. I thought I should deliver the message to those players. I contacted the organizer (Head of the sports Dept. of the university) and requested him for the speech, after explaining about the expedition. I showed him the News Paper cutting of mine and the photographs. He agreed and told me, as there would be inaugural function the next day (though the tournament started two days before), before the match he would allow me to talk at that time at 12 Noon.


India-Pakistan Border

According to my expedition programme, I have to reach up to the Wagha Border (the plan was to go to Pakistan through this Border point but I did not get visa for Pakistan). I thought if not Pakistan, but could walk up to the border. The Border was just 20 Km from the University, I moved after lunch, the whether was pleasant. Here the speciality of this Border is that every morning and evening at 6 O'clock, both India and Pakistan opens their gates at the time of flag hosting and at the time of taking off the flags. Every day lots of tourists come to see the parade. I reached the border at 4 P.M. and saw many people were waiting outside the gate from where the border gate was still 200 meters. The gate opened at around 4.30 and all people moved in. I reached near the border and got to see Pakistan on the other side of the gate. I was excited, Pakistani Soldiers and few people were there. There were more than thousand tourists came to see the Parade. But on the other, Pakistani side we saw very few people. Parade started around 6 O'clock and it was exciting. We were standing 30 meters away from the gate, as the soldiers require 30 meters for Parade. Both sides Jawans (Soldiers) orders at the same time. The soldiers make high noise of their shoes during the parade, which encourages each Indian. I do not know about others, but I felt I should do it with them. Each order was given loudly and clear. Jawans used to take their leg high up in the lane of their face and used to bash on the floor, which was really great. I saw how much strength is required for doing the same. The other sides Pakistani Jawans were also doing the same. I found there was competition between Indian and Pakistani Jawans. I saw tremendous hatred (competition) in the eyes of Indian as well as Pakistani Jawans. After few minute both, India and Pakistan gates opens, Indian and Pakistani Jawans shake each other's hands and then flag comes down. During the parade march, we (tourists) used to encourage our Jawans by shouting patriotic slogans. It was thrilling experience.

It was the third day in Amritsar. I came to know about an army school, it was near the hostel, but due to examination the principal asked me to come on 6th Jan to deliver the speech. I came back and attended the Inaugural Function at the University Football ground and delivered the speech to the sports girls. In the hostel also during breakfast, lunch and dinner, I was getting an opportunity to meet the students. In these two to three days, I made a few friends in the university and requested them to arrange a small speech to talk with the students. They have arranged a small gathering and did my job spreading the message around the hostel youth. I delivered the message through the City Cable Television (Local TV channel) news. I was very happy to deliver my message to the people of Amritsar. So in various ways, I was trying to carry on my work to make people aware and encourage them to start doing individual efforts to save our mother earth.

In Gurunanak Dev University, I came to know about a unique structure. There is a Library building, which is V-shaped and it is the second in the world of that kind. On 6th when I returned to the hostel, it was 10 O'clock at night. At the entrance I met the security guards, one of them was very good and kind. I was in the habit of having a chat with him every day. Tonight, I also spent some time with him. His name was Mr. Singh. He told me about his experience regarding the people's kindness and trust. He told me that he wanted to go to USA and was trying a lot to get the visa. Once he applied for it with many false documents, showing a lot of acres of land, trucks, bank balance and much more, but the counsellor caught him and said you won't be getting a visa for one year and she put a stamp on it. It was true that he wanted to work and stay in USA. He was around 35-40 years of age and from a good family. He had been in army before joining the University service. One of his relatives lives in States and the relative told him to come to USA. Once he reaches the states, the relative would do he could to help him. He was cheated once while trying to get visa. He started narrating the experience. He somehow met an old man of around 60 yrs of age. The old man told him that he could do visa work and he showed him a lot of documents and said he had given visas to many people. Mr. Singh told me that he has visited his house many times and he was staying with his wife. Mr. Singh used to visit his house frequently to see whether he was a nice man or not. One day the old man told him that he would go to Delhi to get the visa and tickets. He asked him for his Passport with all the documents and money. He asked for around 90,000 rupees Both Mr. Singh and one of his relative's asked that he would send somebody with him because the amount was very large and for an old person it would be risky. He told him that his son would be coming and both of them will go to Delhi and he shouldn't worry. He said that there was nothing to doubt about him because the old man behaved with everyone for six month in such a way, that he built a strong bond of trust. No one could think he would cheat. But when Mr. Singh and the other relative gave him the money the very next day, they found a lock at the old man's house. They enquired with the neighbours, but even the neighbours didn't know where he had disappeared off to. Because the furniture, refrigerator, TV and Washing machine everything was in the house. They searched a lot but could not find the old man and the lady. But one thing was good, which was the Passports were there inside the house. The old man, who was looking kind and innocent, cheated Mr. Singh. Even then he wanted to go to USA. But this time he had a different plan. He said, first he would go to Dubai and then get the Visa from Dubai and move to USA.

I spent a long time in Amritsar, since I have started the expedition. I found Punjabi's are really kind hearted and very good people. Before leaving Amritsar, I got the Rotaract International Directory from Tarun, in which there were names and addresses with contact numbers of Rotaract Clubs all over the World.

After continuous walk for last 3 days, first at Harike (60 Km), then Faridkot (60 Km) and third day, I reached Bhatinda. In Bhatinda, I met Mr Somchand Deva (Ref- Rtr. Kamal from Ambala) and he was the owner of two hotels, Hotel Metro and Hotel Vikas. He accommodated me in Hotel Vikas. In the morning, I came to know that Mr Som had left for Delhi, as his two-year-old son was seriously ill and would undergo operation. In Bhatinda, I visited Guru Nanak Dev Thermal Power Plant, which is known to be one of the biggest power plant in India. I could contact few Rotaractors in Bhatinda. Those members told me about the function on Monday i.e. the next day and requested me to deliver the message in the village school.

On Monday, one of the Rtr. took me to Galli Patti Govt. School in Galli Patti Village. The function was at 11.30 but started just 15 minutes late. The whole school staff and Principal welcomed all of us. Chief Guest was Mr. Mehta of National Fertilizers Limited who has done lot for the School and even announced Rs.2000 for the handicapped students. Rotaract Club of Bhatinda donated Sweaters to the School Students and Poor Children's. Just before the end of the program, I got the opportunity to talk. I had a talk in Hindi and delivered my message. Wherever I used to give the speech to the students, the teachers and other people, they all used to get motivated and encouraged. Mr. Mehta wished me well, and the Principal presented me a trophy as a memento. Later, I visited to NIIT and had free talk with the students. I sent the trophy by post to my club (Ajintha Sports Club)

I visited St. Joseph's Convent School where the Principal was Sister Innocentia. She was very kind like a Mother Merry. She respected me a lot and then permitted me to talk to the students. Later, she spent sometime knowing about my family and expedition also. She asked me if I want anything, I refused but requested her to help me spread the message – save the Earth, save the animals and support WWF- so if you could distribute the WWF membership cards to the school students and get more from WWF – Delhi office to support WWF. She promised me, I thanked her before leaving. I remembered my mother because of so much of love and affection in her eyes. I miss her many times.

I moved to Sirsa (90 Km), but had to struggle a lot, for hitchhiking and reached Sirsa at 7 P.M. I searched for Rotaract Club in Sirsa but I could not find it. There was no Club in Sirsa. But I managed to find a Rotary Club member who was Rotarian Bhupesh Mehata. With his help, I stayed in the Asylum. The next day he took me to National Girls School and I talked to 8th, 9th and 10th standard students. Rotarian Mehata arranged City Cable Television (Local TV channel) interview. After interview I moved immediately towards Fatehabad (40 Km). I stayed in the Asylum, but the room was unclean and dirty. It was very cold and few people were staying in the asylum. The asylum was good, but the manager was not good. I joined the people who were sitting near the fire. I saw many places, especially where people were sitting around fires. I enquired and came to know that the day was called LODI day. The people celebrate LODI and it is sign of change in weather. This means that after the day of LODI, summer season starts or the day gets warm and hot. The people who were staying in other rooms of the Asylum were from Rajasthan and has arranged camp on Acupressure, Reki, Acupuncture etc. They were very nice people. They tried to teach me few very important relief exercises by using Acupressure techniques.

On the way to Hisar (45 Km) from Sirsa, I visited a School. It was a primary School and was run by Rotarian the Principal was a young lady. I explained to her and requested for the talk. When she came to know about Rotary, she called Rotarian Kaushik. He welcomed me and immediately arranged for the talk. All were praising and respecting a lot. Whenever I see people ready to do anything for me, I used to thank God for providing so much love and making me great and big person in the eyes of the people. After the speech with the small students Rotarian Kaushik asked me if I need anything. Here also I repeated the same line to support WWF. Many times many people were ready to help me. They asked me if I need anything and answer for this question was WWF – support. I thanked him and after breakfast, I moved ahead. After an hour's walk one man came running and told that his boss is calling me. At first I thought, is there another man wanted to give me a job? Like it happened in Jalandhar. I was again angry for going back, but when I turned around, I found Rotarian Kaushik was calling me. He introduced me to one of the press reporters of "The Tribune" who called up a photographer and took many photographs while walking. There was another person from a Lions Club, who told me that he has taken a project and is planting 200 trees every day since December 28 and would continue till February 28. Later, he briefed me about the project and found he was in the business. Suddenly in front of us, we saw heartless people beating the horse badly. I could not imagine that man could be so heartless. The man was sweating & tired, so one could imagine the way he was beating the horse. Moreover, the horse was not moving ahead even an inch after beating so badly and he was just shouting and jumping. This was the first time I have seen cruelty to animal. I felt like beating the man in same way, as he did it with the poor animal. The horse was really small but in carry-van the weight of the goods was much-much more. Other two people were pushing the carry-van. Tears came out of my eyes looking at the scene and we stopped that man and asked the problem. He told that the calf of the horse was at home and so the horse was not ready for the work. After spending some time and convincing him that even animal understands language of love, I moved ahead. I reached Hisar at 7.30 P.M. I called up Rtr. Vikas Jain but he was not at home so I spoke to his father. He asked me to come home. His house was not a house it was a Bungalow a very big Bungalow, Uncle and Aunty welcomed me and even Rtr. Vikas came by that time. I explained him and requested to help for accommodation. He was a different kind of Rtr. and lot of kindness was in his heart. He accommodated me in his room. I spent a day at his house. I got up a little late and got to know what people think when they keep an unknown person without knowing the background. During breakfast, Aunty spoke to me. She was not aware about the expedition and the work I was doing. She saw the photographs and told me that she couldn't sleep throughout the whole night because of unawareness. I felt very sorry that I troubled Aunty. She thought I am not a genuine person & whole night she was worried. But later she took lot of care. The Jain family was well known in Hissar. They were millionaires, They have lot of property, which they had given on rent. "Kamla House" is the name of the Bungalow where they live. In the evening I have been interviewed by the City Cable Television. Then we went for the Rotary Club meeting to ask the club to provide some financial support. I would like to tell you a special experience of the Expedition. One day while walking towards Rohtak (80 Km) from Hissar - What happened? At a market place, I requested a garage fellow to give me a plate and hammer. He asked me the purpose and I told him that I would like to gather people and talk to them. They all laughed a lot on me and gave plate and a hammer I made a noise and shouted in Hindi language, "Suno Bhaiyon Suno, Paanch minute ke liye mere paas aao, suno... suno..... suno...." (listen-listen, come to me for five minutes) It was called street show. I really enjoyed the talk with those people and delivered the message. Many young and old men gathered & listened to me carefully.

I stayed again in an Asylum, in Rohatak and later in Bahdurgarh. (60 Km from Rohatak) In Bahadurgarh, the asylum I saw had many historic paintings. They all were Patriotic, which encourages people to leave in peace and unity not to fight for cast. When Mughal Soldiers used to kill Hindu's, Sikhs came forward to fight for Hindu Brahmin. Even I believe that there is only one religion and that is love.

On 18th January, I entered Delhi, which was just 30 Km from Bahadurgarh. I reached in the evening at 6.00 P.M. On the way, I met the reporter of Hindustan Times of Delhi. He asked about me, I explained to him and later he told me that he was the reporter. He took my Photograph also. I went to Lajpat Bhavan at Mr. Satya Paul's place, but he was not there. I met his P.A. and he was aware about the expedition. He accommodated me in the guest room.

The next day morning I saw many students because D.A.V. Public School was inside the campus of Lajpat Bhavan. I got the permission to deliver the message. It was again a very good experience. I got time to talk during the assembly, as I approached to the Principal before the assembly. I could talk to more than 500 students with the help of mike. I found myself very confident to talk in front of so many students. The whole speech was of more than ten minutes and everybody liked it very much and praised a lot. I presented Poster and Stickers as memento and told not to forget my talk and me. At the end of each speech I used to present Poster and Stickers (of WWF). In Newspaper "The Hindustan Times", I saw my news. I went to Shastri Bhavan and contacted Meenakshi Sharma (Ministry of Youth Affairs and Sports) and showed her that without any support from the Govt. I crossed more than a month and will complete the remaining journey. She wished me for the expedition. In the same building, I contacted Mr. Nitin Wakankar who was working in the Environment Ministry in Press Information and communication Dept. I requested him to help me for the Newspaper coverage. He asked me to come in the evening. So I went to the INS building where all Newspaper Offices are. The week Magazine reporter took my interview with the photographs, as I was having rucksack with me because I knew I would require it. Few more Newspaper reporters took my interview. In the evening I went back to Shastri Bhavan and contacted Mr. Nitin Wakankar. He introduced me to the reporters of Delhi News Papers Indian express, Times of India and Nav bharat Times as well as other reporters from Calcutta (Anand Bazar Patrika), Pune (Sakal), Bangalore (Kannada Prabha). Everyone asked me various questions and few of them took my Photographs too. As I was having rucksack with me because I decided to spend the day for News Paper work. After coming back at Lajpat Bhavan, I tried to meet Mr. Satya Paul but could not. He was always busy. On the second day in Delhi, Cable TV interviewed me and the shooting was on the highway. The interview was for more than half an hour. It was great experience for me and it was like a film. All previous interviews were inside the studios, but only Delhi interview was outside of the studio. Many people watch me during shooting and I was very happy. Later, I went to Sri Lanka Embassy but it was closed. They were having holiday. I visited INS building and contacted Mr. Rajeev Khandekar of Loksatta News Paper from Mumbai. He showed me my news in Loksatta. In the evening while coming back by bus to Lajpat Bhavan, I met a nice person. He asked me to come to Doordarshan office the next day. He was working in Doordarshan as a host actor for "One hour live show". His name was Mr. Mathur.


Sri Lankan Visa

The 21st January was the happiest day. The first step towards the success of the expedition, I went to Sri Lanka Embassy, I was worried whether I would get visa or not. The Embassy officer asked me many questions and saw my application form. I attached the letter of Ministry of External Affairs too. He asked me to pay Rs.140 and asked to come at 4.30 p.m. The time he asked me for money I understood and got happy. I came out and went to Doordarshan office to met Mr. Mathur and showed him all the documents. He asked me to wait. I waited for a long time, but he did not turn up. Later, I enquired with other officers but even they could not help me. I was very angry on those people for wasting my time. It was high time of waiting, I moved immediately to the office of the Sri Lanka Embassy. I was still afraid but once I went inside, I got very happy. The visa was in my hand and it was for a month and validity was for three months. Last three days I spent on meeting few good personalities and tried for sponsorship I visited Kodak India's office and met the Marketing Manager. I explained him and requested to give me a letter to get the Film Rolls in concession rates anywhere in India. But he replied it would not be possible.

Visited NMNH (National Museum of Natural History) and got many Posters and Stickers, more than 200 on OZONE protection & clean & healthy environment. I liked the stickers very much, it was conveying message clearly. The sticker was having a picture like our palm protects the earth from Ultra violet-B rays. It was mainly designed to make aware about Ozone and it's protection. For the first month of the Expedition, I struggled hard to keep my closest friends informed of my progress through letters and e-mail. But the effort was too much, so from Delhi onwards I adopted the diary-keeping method. Most travelers and expeditionary and sent installments used this, whenever a reliable looking post office appeared en route. Here are some facts that I noticed about Delhi. It contains what are probably the finest monuments in any city in India.


The Qutab Minar

The Qutab Minar, one of the city's most famous sights, is a 5-storey, 72-metre tower of red sandstone. It was begun in 1199 as a symbol of Muslim victory and power and used for hundreds of years by muezzins (mosque officials) calling the faithful to prayer. Near the Qutab is one of Delhi's most remarkable sights, a simple pillar, set up about A.D. 400. It weighs over 6 metric tons, stands more than 7 metres high and has never rusted. The citadel of Tughluqabad was a major centre of power for about ten years in the 1300's and has been a wasteland of ruins ever since. In the beautiful Lodi Gardens is the cemetery of the Lodi kings, who ruled India from Delhi during the 1400's and were overthrown by the Mughals in 1526. Shah Jahan's Lal Qila (Red Fort) dates from the 1600's. Its walls of red sandstone enclose elegant halls and pavilions where the Mughal emperors held lavish ceremonies and gave audience to subjects and ambassadors. The Jama Masjid is the biggest mosque in all India and was also built by Shah Jahan.

One day luckily I met Mr. Satya Paul and Secretary of the Servants of the People Society, Mr. Shrof. As Mr. Satya Paul was always busy, but Secretary Mr. Shrof was from Ahamadabad and was more than 80 years old. He was the man of principle. Every day, he does everything on time. He spends one-hour of his day making thread of cotton on Charkha (the hand made machine like the one on which Gandhiji used to work) for his own clothes. He always uses Khadi and suggested me to use Khadi. Frankly speaking during expedition I could not wore Khadi Clothes, but now after coming back from the expedition, partially I started using Khadi. I met Mr. Rajeev Khandekar, he told me that one lady Mrs. Rashmi Ghatwai would like to talk to me as she read my news in "Loksatta" News Paper. He gave her number I called up and spoke to her for five minutes. She was very happy and excited to meet me. She invited me to come to her house on Sunday. She told she was waiting for my call and was excited to meet. On Sunday I spent whole day at Mrs. Rashmi Ghatwai's house. She was an environmentalist. Mr. Kishore her husband works in Bharat Petrolium. We had a talk about the expedition and even I came to know lot about her. Her articles got published in LOKPRABHA (Marathi Language famous Magazine). She has performed street shows and many other activities to make people aware about the problems of environment. She was a mother of two daughters and still spending time to do something for the environment. Her house was in Noida and I walked from Noida to Lajpat Bhavan after the lunch, which was around 20 Km.

Many times during the expedition I saw that people beat the Bulls or Horses' or buffalo's etc. even after those animal carrying lot of weight and running on the road. But still the stupid people unnecessary beat those animals. I really saw there was no need but people have hunter in their hands and so they beat otherwise they do not feel like driving a Bullock Cart or a carry van. I get angry whenever I see the hunter in the hands of people those who drive Bullock Cart or a carry van.

I thought why Govt. couldn't make more strict laws against cruelty to animals. If I would be the law minister I would have made a law that no Bullock Cart or carry van person will have hunter or stick or any thing in their hand. They can control the animals with their hands and off course with LAGAM. Inside the city many places Traffic Police are on duty. If they see such beating incident they would fine the person or send him away from the Bullock Cart or carry van for whole day. So at least the animals will be sitting peacefully for a day.

It was the evening of 25th January I saw beautiful scene on Rajpath {(The main road goes to Rashtrapati Bhavan (President's House)}. It was looking so beautiful that everyone would have liked to spend whole night on the Rajpath. The preparation was going on for celebrating the Republic Day on 26th January. Whole Rajpath, Rshtrapati Bhavan and India Gate were lighted. Thousands of flags were on the Rajpath. Many security guards were doing their job for the safety of the next day's program. The whole area was cleaned and decorated with the flowers.

In 1912, the capital of India was moved from Calcutta to Delhi. Plans were also made to build a new capital just outside Delhi, away from that crowded city, 5 kilometres to the south of Old Delhi in the early 1900's. It lies on the Jumna (or Yamuna) River, a tributary of the Ganges (or Ganga), in north central India. The English architects Sir Herbert Baker and Sir Edwin L. Lutyens planned the layout and designed buildings for the new city. Construction began in 1912 but was delayed during World War I (1914-1918). In 1931, New Delhi was completed and became the capital of India. The resulting complex is a spacious, attractive, and carefully planned city, with broad, tree-lined avenues and many open areas, parks, gardens, and fountains. The city remained the capital after India gained independence from the United Kingdom in 1947. India's constitution went into effect on Jan. 26, 1950. Since then, January 26 has been a national holiday called Republic Day. New Delhi has an annual Republic Day celebration, which features a huge parade. But I was going to miss the event. Actually my plan was to walk, carrying my message at the time when all the states of India perform their cultural show on Rajpath. In short, I wanted to walk on Rajpath, so that my message could reach billions and billions of Indians. I tried to get the permission before I started the expedition and I even went to Prime Minister and President's office, but it was just impossible.

On 26th , I moved towards Jaipur and reached the pink city after crossing two villages, which were Gurgaon and Kotputti where I spent the nights in the asylums. Jaipur city's remarkable buildings includes a palace, an open-air astronomical observatory, and an elegant five-storey building known as Hawa Mahal or Palace of Winds. The palace is where women of the Maharaja's harem were able to peer out at the world unobserved through its 593 windows and peepholes. In Jaipur, I contacted Rtr. Sandeep who helped me a lot. First he took me to the City Cable Television office and later at a Hindi Newspaper. I have been interviewed at both places. He dropped at the D.A.V. Public School at Vaishali Nagar where I got help from Principal Mr. Goel (Ref- Satya Paul -Servants of the people Society) for accommodation and he put me in the School's guesthouse. The next day morning in Jaipur, I delivered the message to the same school students. I noticed that the impact of my speech was more on the students below 10th standard or students of less than 17 yrs of age. One girl after the speech gave me address of her Uncle, as she was encouraged by my talk and her Uncle was involved in doing the similar kind of work.

I moved towards Ajmer, which was around 120 Km. On the way I found another School, which was Tagore Public School. After getting permission, I delivered the message to nearly 1000 students and it was great experience too. I thought of visiting Mr. Manoj Kulshreshtha, Uncle of the small girl studying in the same school, his house was near by. I spent some time knowing his activity. He was associated with WWF and BNHS (Mumbai) and did lot of projects. He was a specialist in Bird watching. It was great pleasure to meet such type of environmentalist. I had snacks at his place and moved ahead.

There was another funny experience on this highway. At a check post, two Traffic Police stopped me and asked, "what you are selling?" I was angry at the stupid Police, I was on the highway and they saw me coming from long distance still they asked me such question (Sales man will sale the things in the city, not on the highway?) I didn't reply just laughed but one of them opened the rucksack and took out my toothbrush and said, "So, you are selling tooth brush, give me one (off course free)." I opened my mouth and explained to them my expedition and both of them felt ashamed on their behavior. I met a very nice truck driver. When I asked for hitchhiking, he told me that he would not go to Ajmer, but would drop me 30 Km, as Ajmer was still 90 Km. He enquired me about the work I do. When I explained him about the expedition. He was so happy that he changed his route for me. He was supposed to go to Udaypur from different and short route, but I couldn't believe that just for me he changed his route. Even I told him I would get any other truck and told him to not trouble himself. He didn't listen, changed the route and dropped me at Ajmer in the evening at around 6 O'clock. Many times I met same kind of truck drivers. Sometimes I used to have lunch with them. I got a lot of help from the truck drivers in all over India. Because of those kind people I could travel without money. Mostly I had to hitchhike a lot in India and Vietnam.

After Ajmer, the next five day's I spent mostly in the villages and stayed in the Asylums. First night I spent at a village called BHIM it was around 80 Km. I had a very nice walk, I used to take rest for 15-20 minutes every two hours. I used to have fruits and snacks on the way. People used to ask me and used to look at me with the curiosity. In the evening time wherever the distance was more than 45 Km, I used to hitchhike. Second day at Rajsamand village, which was again around 80 Km. Third day to Udaipur, which was 60 Km. Fourth day to Himatnagar and fifth day I had lot of problems in walking. My legs and ankles were paining a lot and I got pimples on my toes. I didn't walk much hitchhiked till Ahamadabad. There in Ahamadabad, I contacted Mr. Joshi (Ref- Satya Paul -Servants of the people Society). He was not at home, but I spoke to his daughter on the phone. I explained her and given reference of Satya Paul Uncle. She asked me to call again, after some time. I called up and got the reply that I should go to Bhagat Mahila Chatralaya, she already informed in charge of Bhagat Mahila Chatralaya. When I reached, I came to know it was a girls hostel. An 80-year-old lady welcomed me and everyone called her maji. I kept my rucksack and told them that I would be coming at night. I called Rtr. Bhavesh, whose number was with me .I explained to him and requested him to accompany me for the Rotary Club meeting. He came down to the hostel and picked me and took me to Rotarian Patwardhan's office. I explained him about my expedition and the way I walk i.e. with the help of Rotary He asked us to come to the meeting which was going to be there on the same day. At around 7 O'clock, it was the meeting time and we went to Ellicebridge Gymkhana. Rotarian Patwardhan introduced me to the Rotarians and asked me to talk. It was the second Rotary Club, provided financial assistance. I thanked them and Rtr. Bhavesh dropped me back to the Hostel. When Maji (A woman like a mother- we call Maji) got to know more about me, she was very much impressed for the work that I was doing and took lot of care. Mr. Joshi told me to stay in University and have food in the Hostel. But Maji does not wanted me to stay away and she asked and forced me to stay in the Hostel itself. I had dinner and went to sleep. I got a big hall where 3-4 workers were there with me to sleep. It was my second day in Ahamadabad and I was not feeling well. My stomach was having some problem. Maji told me that stomach problem was because of change in water. I went to a clinic and there was a lady homeopathic doctor. I requested her for free treatment after showing the letter of Indian Medical Association. She gave me homeopathic medicine and suggested me to visit the nearest hospital i.e. "Sushrusha" for allopathic treatment to get recover fast. I went to "Sushrusha" and contacted Dr. Mohale. I explained and showed the same letter and requested for free treatment. He prescribed medicines for five days and told me not to eat solid for at least 2-3 days and take enough rest. He asked me to take precaution of drinking water. That was first time in the expedition I fall sick and went to the hospital. I thought of spending time watching cricket (India-Pakistan) match. So, I went to Rtr. Pathik's office and requested him to drop me at his house. He dropped me at his house and his brother Ashok was at home. I spent the whole day at his house. In the evening Ashok, took me to the meeting of Rotary Club have Metro and that was the third Club provided financial assistance. On the way, I bought medicines of Rs. 139/- and Rtr. Ashok dropped me to the hostel. I bought many Glucose Packets, as Doctor suggested me to drink Glucose. I explained Maji about the sickness. She immediately asked a servant to bring curd from the market. She gave me rice and curd to eat I drank water after dinner and slept at 10 O'clock.

To have the fulfillment of a Twenty-four-year-old ambition apparently within one's grasp can be quite disconcerting. This was a moment I had thought about so often that when I actually found myself living through it, I felt as though some favourite scene from a novel had come, incredibly to life. However with in a few weeks my journey had degenerated from a happy-go-lucky walk to a grim struggle for progress by any means. At first my disappointment was acute, but I had set out to enjoy myself by seeing the world, delivering the speech through the schools, Colleges and Rotary Clubs. So I soon became adjusted to these conditions, which led to quite a few interesting adventures that you will come across while reading.

Ahamadabad lies on the Sabarmati River, in India's cotton-growing region. The city is the nation's textile manufacturing and trade centre. The city is divided into two sections, one each side of the Sabarmati. On the eastern bank lies the original city dating back to the 1400's. This is an overcrowded area with densely packed houses and busy shops. Weaving mills and other factories stand on the outskirts. This eastern part of Ahmadabad has many historical monuments. It is a beautiful city, with splendid mosques and many examples of Hindu, Muslim, and Jain architecture. On the west bank of the river, linked to eastern Ahmadabad by the Ellis Bridge, lies the sprawling modern area of the city. Western Ahmadabad includes many upper-class suburbs and the principal shopping and leisure areas. I was not having enough time with me.

I thought of reaching Bombay (Mumbai) and take rest there, as there was lot of work to do. The next day I decided to walk and hitchhike and I was feeling better compare to yesterday. Maji blessed me, I said goodbye to all and moved ahead. On the way I got a bad experience, a drunker snatched my camera from my pouch, but I held his hand and part of the camera. He was shouting and asking, what I have in the bag? He was not ready to leave my camera. First I was scared, but later I took aggressive stand. The whole drama was continued for 5 minutes. On a tea stall few people were watching the drama. One of them came and helped me. He shouted on him and gave my camera back to me. I thanked him and moved ahead. I had fruits and water after regular interval. In the afternoon at a check post, I requested the officer to help me for lift (hitchhike) I waited for an hour, but I found he did not pay attention to my request. I tried to remind him, he shouted on me, "Since one hour I am watching you, why are you standing here?" as he shouted on me, tears came out. When the other officer saw tears in my eyes, they shouted on him. I moved ahead, other officer tried to call me back for the assistance but I didn't stopped. Ahead after some time I got a lift and the truck driver dropped me at a Dhaba (Highway Hotel) near Surat as he was going in different direction. I was facing many problems. At night in the Dhaba, I had rice and took medicines. I explained and requested Dhaba owner for spending night. He was very kind he asked me to sleep inside, outside was cold. I spent the whole night, but could not sleep properly.

In the morning the Dhaba owner helped me for hitchhike and he asked a truck driver to drop me at Thane. But the driver dropped 50 Km before Thane, as he was also going in different direction. It was afternoon, I had fruits and took medicine in that village and walked ahead. I tired to walk, but felt weak but because of fruits and water I got the power to walk. I walked less and took more rest. At the same time, I was trying for hitchhike but all in vain. In the evening I got at the traffic Police booth. First time I felt like I got god because it was high time of tolerance and was just impossible to walk. I explained the Policeman and requested him to help for hitchhike. He asked me to wait, meantime I eat few biscuits, spent almost an hour with him. He was very happy and was enquiring a lot about the expedition. At around 8 O'clock, he asked one truck driver to drop me in Thane, which was I believe around 40 Km from that place. At last I reached Thane at 9 p.m. I knew Mr. Kishor Lokhande (brother of Mr. Vijay Lokhande, coach of Ajeentha Sports Club) lives in Thane, but I didn't have his number or address. So first I called up Aurangabad and spoke to Mr. Supekar (my coach) and got the phone number. I called up and spoke to Mr. Lokhande He gave me his residence address and asked me to come. It was 10 O'clock when I reach his house. He welcomed me and asked to have food. First I took bath and told Sir and Bhabi (his wife) that I would eat only rice because of stomach problem. I experienced body pain that day, so I had a pain killer tablet and slept immediately after chatting for little time.

Next morning I made a call to Leena's (a Friend) house and got the phone number of her brother, Harshad and Amod Kulkarni, who lives in Bombay. Then I called up Harshad and told him that I would be coming to his house by evening. I felt much better today and was ready to walk to Mumbai without any problem. I thanked Sir and Bhabi and moved out with their blessings. It was just 20 km walking and I reached at Amod's house at 2.30 p.m. Everyone welcomed me, they all were surprised and shocked that I spent two months walking from north to south. I took bath, had lunch and spent time watching TV. I decided to take enough rest and recover fast.

On the second day in Mumbai I visited BNHS and WWF but got disappointment. I visited their office for help to deliver my message all over Bombay through Media, like TV and News Paper. I wanted to convert Indian Rupees into US$. Amod and me first went to SBI (State Bank of India) but here he came to know that getting US$ was very difficult task, no doubt if you have Visa. You must have tickets too. Without tickets it's difficult. Even we contacted the Branch Manager, but he asked many questions and denied for any possibility. Then we went to IOB (Indian Overseas Bank) and got the same answer. The branch manager told us that we would have issued $ if you had account with us. The officer suggested us to visit Thomas Cook. Harshad's friend was working in Thomas Cook and he spoke to Mr. Aldrine. He explained him and requested him to help me. Mr. Aldrine asked to visit his office. Amod and I went to Thomas Cook, showed him all the documents he faxed few of them to his boss and asked his opinion on phone. I got the green signal that I was getting travelers’ cheque of SBI. Mr. Aldrine asked us to encash it from the nearest branch of SBI. We moved out and encashed all cheques of Rs. 40,000 (the money I got from my sports Club, City Corporation, by a Politician and on the way through Rotary Clubs) and came back. I saw my file was lying on the table. When we were out, in mean time the office staff had gone through my file and got to know about my expedition. Many staff members enquired in detail about my expedition. Mr. Aldrine was helping me a lot. I got US$ 950 against Rs. 40,000. I kept 500 rupees with me. Mr. Aldrine gifted me a west pouch, which I gifted to Amod later cause I had one already of WWF. I completed a very big work just because of Harshad. We came back home at 4 O'clock had lunch and spent time watching TV. I called up Mr. Sanjay Singh of Zee TV (Friend of Rashmi-Delhi) and explained him. He told me it is not possible for him and such news. They get readymade news agencies and he asked me to contact Mr. Salman who was working for Bombay City Cable (A television channel). He gave me his Phone and Pager number. When I contacted Mr. Salman, he asked me, my contact number and said that he would call next day morning for the confirmation of place for the interview.


Meeting Sachin Tendulkar

Next day, he called me in the morning and asked to come near Church gate at 11 O'clock and he gave me a detailed address. Mr. Salman came at 11.45 and he spent half an hour more making arrangement. Many people watched me during shooting and it was another great experience. Until July 28, 1995, Mumbai was known as Bombay. The name Mumbai comes from the goddess Mumba, which is the local name for Parvati, the wife of the Hindu god Shiva. Mumbai has been India's chief western seaport since the 1700's, and has been called the Gateway to Asia. It is also an important financial centre, the home of India's diamond-cutting industry, and the heart of the Indian film industry. One of the most famous landmarks in Mumbai is the Gateway of India. This huge arch commemorates the visit to India in 1911 of King George V.

In the evening, I went to play Table Tennis (the housing society was having a Table in a big hall) As soon as I entered in to the hall I was surprised and shocked and I couldn't believe on my eyes, Sachin was sitting on a chair. Yes Sachin Tendulkar, the great Cricketer in the World and pride of India. I was stunt for two minutes; I did not understand what to do. I was watching him with the big eyes. I went home and brought my Camera. I requested Sachin for few Photographs. First I explained Sachin about my Expedition and took Photographs. It was great moment of my life. Sachin wished me for the success of the expedition. Amod and Harshad used to play with him as he was staying in the same society. Now he has big Bungalows, but still he stays sometime with his parents. I saw his daughter who was just One year old and looks like Sachin. I packed my rucksack and told everyone that I would be leaving next day. Aunty took lot of care in those 3-4 days and she used to force me to eat food. Harshad and Amod were very good to me and they helped me a lot in Mumbai. It was time to say goodbye to Mumbai. Uncle and Aunty blessed me before leaving. Aunty packed little food and fruits for me. She repeatedly asked me if I want anything more. I thanked them all and moved ahead. Now I was much better and healthy.

I wore a (Burmuda) half jeans pant, which was given by Amod. Earlier, I used to wear full pant, but because it was summer season, so I started using Half Pant. During walk I noticed change in behaviour of the people. It was the effect of Western Culture One person said "Hello!!!!!!!" It never used to happen before, but because I was wearing a nice half Bermuda type of Short, people changed their look and there was respect in their behaviour. PUNE was 190 km from Mumbai. Whole day I was searching for a tree on the highway to take rest in shadow, as it was hot, but didn't find even a single tree for Kilometres. I walked till evening and hitchhiked. I reached Pune at 8 O'clock and contacted Rtr. Vikram Kothari (who met me in "Rotasia" A big meeting of Rotaractors-Agra). He asked me to wait for him at a hotel. Mean time, I called up Mr. Milind Deshmukh (Ref- Servants of India Soc- Delhi -Mr. Satya Paul who has already sent a letter to many people of different cities in India and the same list was with me.) and got disappoint. I was not happy with his behaviour, he asked me to spend a night anywhere in the hotel and visit him during office hours, the next day. Further he said, “I would see what best I can do for you." People in other State that I crossed, helped and welcomed me even at night at 12 but Home State people shut their houses for me (off course not all). It was painful to have such people working for the organization which is devoted for the benefit of the people. Rtr. Vikram picked me and took me to another member's House. Those Rotaractors called up another two members Matthias and Sujay. It was 10.30 and I told them that I would be staying at Servants of India Soc. the next day, so Matthias agreed to keep me for the night at his house. We reached at Matthias' house at 12 and slept at 12.45 am.

Next day after breakfast, I called up Mr. Milind Deshmuckh (Servants of India Soc.) He asked me to come to the office. He was a cold and interest less person, he didn't enquire about expedition. He asked one of the servants to open a guesthouse for me. I got a place to stay and I washed few clothes and visited S.P. High School with 3-4 Rotaractors but Principal did not allow me to talk. In the evening, I attained Rotary and Rotaract Club meetings. At night I called up at our neighbor's place and kept message for my brother to come to Pune with the remaining cards. I had around 2000 small cards at my home (total I had 5000 out of which 3000 I distributed in the schools since I started the expedition. The cards were little bigger than Visiting Cards, made by cutting the remaining greeting cards, with the message on it.) I used to distribute those cards in the Schools amongst the students. I came back to the guesthouse at 11 and slept at 11.45 In Pune City, which is known as the house of education, I tried to visit few Schools, but because of exams in the next month no one wanted to waste their time. No one allowed me to talk. In the evening I attained Rotary and Rotaract Clubs meetings where I got financial support from two Rotary Clubs. Today I enjoyed a play organized by Rotary Club of Hill Side. It was really best play. I spent a nice time in Pune City, second day morning Salil picked me and took me at Rotarian Kshirsagar's house. I got a surprise my brother was there with Mr. Nilesh Kapadia (One of the great supporter in the success of this expedition). After spending some time with them, I visited Newspaper offices to deliver my message. In the evening I attained 3-4 Rotaract Club meetings and delivered the speech amongst all young college girls and guys Rotaract members. I requested them to spread this message the same way as I do by visiting schools and talking to the students. came back at 8 O'clock my brother was waiting for me, we went out for dinner. I gave him unwanted material to take back. Next day I moved out with brother, had breakfast, said goodbye to him and started towards Satara, the next destination. In the evening I reached Satara by walk and hitchhike at 7 O'clock. This town is situated on the hills and there lots of trees on the highway, as well as inside the city too. I went to Rtr. Vinod Lahoti's place at a Clothe shop "Lahoti Collections". He was also aware about my expedition (Agra Meeting). With in no time he asked me to stay at his house. His house was on the top of the shop itself. He took me upstairs and me introduced to his mother. He called up 4-5 members and decided the next day's program. I had very good dinner at his house. I was really enjoying the expedition because I was getting to meet good people. In the morning, first we visited a Newspaper Office, then around 6-7 enthusiastic girls and persons Rotaract members visited S.E.M.S. School. Rtr. Vinod was having very good rapport with the Principal and he asked a teacher to gather students outside. After the speech, the Principal asked us to wait. He was very happy and impressed. He asked to bring cold drinks and snacks for us and he forced us to have it even after denying a lot. These Rotaractors were also impressed and later respected highly. We visited one more School and got the same response. I did not wanted to spend much time after the speech. I carried my rucksack, thanked everyone and moved out towards Karad another small town. This was just 30 Km. Vinod asked his man to drop me on the highway. I reached Karad at 8 O'clock. Vinod already informed a Rotaract member, Sagar and he gave me his phone number to contact him as soon as I reached Karad I called up Rtr. Sagar and he came with his three more friends. First we had dinner in the nearest hotel and then he asked me to stay with Rtr. Krishna, who was staying alone and was originally from Kolhapur. I was crossing the villages one by one and delivering the message everywhere, wherever I got chance. In that small town I visited two schools and first time in my expedition small students came up with the query. Sagar took me to his Health Fitness Factory and then I moved ahead towards Kolhapur.

The ankle and toe problem started again I thought of showing it to a Doctor in Kolhapur. At 6 O'clock around 15 km before Kolhapur a Car stopped, person sitting in the car asked me "Are you Praveen Ohal?" I replied, yes. He asked me to come inside and told me that he got the information from Rtr. Vinod. His name was Milind Dhond and was one of the richest in Kolhapur. Owner of many companies in India, as well as in Dubai too. He put me in the best hotel, Hotel Ayodhya. The rent I believe was not less than Rs. 300. I never stayed in such a big Hotel. After getting ready he took me to a Café restaurant, where another Rotaract member Asif Shaikh was waiting. Mr. Milind called up Rotaractors of Hubli and Belgum and told them to help me whenever I would be in their town. I requested to make two banners to put on my rucksack stating "Save Earth-Plant trees" so that people should know why I walk otherwise people thinks that I am a salesman. Mr. Milind supported me financially too. I never met any Rtr. like him who would spend so much on me. He spoke to the Principal of Seventh Day Adventist and fixed up the timing for the talk. I thanked him a lot, as I would be moving ahead the next day. After school speech, I would not see him again. In the morning, I visited Seventh Day Adventist School and delivered speech. Principal was very enthusiastic. I visited two more schools with Rtr. Abhay and got the banners. The message was clear with the picture of tree in between words i.e. Save Earth and Plant Trees. I put one banner on my rucksack and other I kept for future use. I saw my news in Sakal Newspaper. After thanking all Rotaractors, I moved ahead towards Belgaum.

I reached by walk and hitchhiking at 9.30, but the truck dropped me out of the town. I called up Rotarian Manohar Watwe from Rotary Club of Belgaum Midtown, gave ref of Rtr. Milind Dhond, he asked me to wait for his call on the same phone number. After ten minutes, he called me and asked me to go to the nearest hotel i.e. Hotel Hanuman On the highway. He booked a room for me in a three star hotel. He told me that he would be contact me the next day morning. As per the promise next day morning Rotary Club President, Secretary and Rotarian Watwe came to the Hotel. After introduction and knowing more about me, first they took me to the Office of the famous Local Newspaper "Tarun Bharat" and Later City Cable Television. Both the places, beautiful lady took my interview. Later we visited a School, where I got 4th, 5th and 6th standard students to deliver the speech. In the afternoon we had lunch, I thanked them and moved ahead. I was in a hurry to move towards Hubli, after few hours walk in the evening I hitchhiked. The truck driver and cleaner were very nice, on the way and they stopped and prepared dinner, as it was their time of dinner. They served me too. Sometimes I felt of leaving the first truck and take another, but the driver and cleaner becomes so close friend that even they do not want me to leave half way and even I did not liked leaving them and catching another one.

At night at 11.45, I reached Hubli and called up Rtr. Pawan Haribal (who was informed by Milind Dhond) he asked me to go to Hotel Vipra, which belongs to his uncle and would talk to hotel manager. It was very near and I got a room as Rtr. Pawan already told manager about me. I was in Karnataka and decided to spend a day there because every day I was walking and wanted to take a day rest. I wanted to visit a Doctor and get medicine for my toes, as the pimples on my toes were troubling a lot. First I visited a nearest small clinic after explaining requested for free treatment. He was very nice Doctor, he suggested me a cream to use. I came back to the hotel and Rtr. Pawan took me to the Rotary English medium School. That day I had given the longest speech ever in my expedition and got the same response. I washed few clothes and in the evening I explained Rotaractors in a meeting, how they can carry on awareness program and what they can do to save our mother earth. I was approaching towards Bangalore. Before I reach Bangalore, I stayed a night in Davangere in a lodge and next day when I left Davangere, I met few Rotaract members in the city. One of them was very active and he went to City Cable Television (Local TV channel) office and came along with the reporter. We were in the main area of the city and people were watching me and were curious. The City Cable Television reporter took interview and shooting. After spending lot of time, they dropped me on the highway. I reached Bangalore by walk and hitchhike at 5.30 p.m. I called up many Rotaract members but I could not get any one. At last I took out Mr.Satya Paul's (Delhi) list and visited Vallabhniketan (asylum for orphans).

His place was still 15 km far I reached by walk at 9.30 contacted Mr. E. P. Menon who welcomed me when I showed him the letter of Mr. Satya Paul. First he took me out in the hotel for dinner. He told me about himself that he has also traveled world on foot. I got a guest room to sleep.

In Bangalore, I visited schools but got the worst experience. Principal and teachers were very narrow-minded. I wasted my whole day visiting schools and trying for the permission. In Bangalore, I got financial support from Peeniya Rotary Club. Kempe Gowda, a local chieftain, founded Bangalore in 1537. He called the city Bengaluru, which means village of boiled beans. He built three chattris (pavilions) to mark the city limits. One of these pavilions, rebuilt by Hyder Ali in 1761, can still be seen in the Lal Bagh Botanic Garden. The city's parks include Cubbon Park, was laid out in 1864 and Lal Bagh Botanic Garden, was laid out by Hyder Ali in the 1700's. The city's main problem has been a severe shortage of water. Bangalore has no local rivers and an annual rainfall of only about 90 centimetres. The problem has become worse with the growth of population and industrial activity. But water from the Cauvery River is now being supplied direct through almost 80 kilometres of pipeline. I moved out of Bangalore with not good experience. I thanked Prof. E. P. Menon and moved out of Vallabhniketan. I walked towards Mysore and reached in the evening mostly by hitchhike. After contacting few Rotaractors phone numbers one suggested me to go for Rotary Club meeting. It was Human Rights Day and Rotary was celebrating it. I was lucky to deliver the speech on that day and one of the Rotarian praised a lot stating, "I should get all success in achieving peace and love amongst people of the World."I have got little financial support from the club and for accommodation same Rotarian came forward, Rotarian Panchajanyam who was very much interested in me. He asked me to sit in his car and took me to a hotel. He sponsored the stay, I thanked him a lot and had dinner after checking in. Then I got a call from Rotarian Shyamsunder who was very enthusiastic, Rotarian Panchajanyam told him about me and help me for spreading the message in the school. He asked me to give call next day for visiting school. I called Rotarian Shyamsunder the next day morning. He said sorry for not arranging any school. I told him that I would visit the nearest schools. I visited two schools but didn't find any possibility of talk.

I was really frustrated thinking what kind of people are there in the south. After explaining that I am spending my two years to save our mother earth, can't you allow me to talk to your students for just 15 minutes? But no effect, I came back with the frustration. I called up Rotarian Shyamsunder and told him that I would be leaving immediately. He wanted to meet me once before I go, so he came down to the hotel and said he would drop me on the highway. On the way, he showed me Mysore Palace but because of time constraint we took Photographs at the gate. I thanked him and moved ahead. On the way, I got Bandipur National Park and that was not possible to cross by walk and even very less chances of hitchhiking. The road goes through forest (Park) and was more than 60 Km. so I got into the Bus. Luckily I met a person who was working in the National Park, so rest of the time I spent chatting with him and got the following information. India currently has 85 national Parks covering 3.6 million sq. km. and 448 wildlife sanctuaries covering about 120,000 sq. kms. in the major biogeographic zones. The total extent of protected areas includes 5 World Heritage sites, 9 Biosphere Reserves and 6 Ramsar sites. The forest is indeed impressive, it is overrun with tribal hunters from several local groups. Snares and booby traps of all kinds await their animal victims on the forest trails, Hunters armed with guns or even poison arrows stalk and kill anything large that moves. I heard that local people use more than 20 different hunting techniques. Giant squirrels, flying squirrels, monitor lizards and even monkeys are hunted with bows that shoot projectiles of hardened clay. Deer and wild pigs, and occasionally leopards are choked to death in wire snares cunningly concealed across their paths. Monkeys, mouse deer and hares are chased with dogs and clubbed to death, sometimes after being driven into nets. Species that rest or nest in tree-cavities, such as flying squirrels, palm civets, hornbills and other birds are pulled out and killed by experts who can climb giant forest trees using nothing more than simple notches cut on their boles. Pangolins, porcupines and monitor lizards are smoked out of their underground burrows. Such deadly skills of forest people, developed through centuries of tradition, are now at the service of international wildlife trade for a price of a few hundred rupees or even a bottle of country-made liquor. When, there was constant propaganda that the tribal people are involved in wildlife trading as well as destroying forest, some of the villagers, they countered the complaint by asking how they could destroy the forest. They owned no trucks; they hardly had even a bullock-cart; the utmost that they could carry away was a head load of produce for sale to maintain their families and that too against a license. The utmost that they wanted was wood to keep them warm in the winter months, to reconstruct or repair their huts and carry on their little cottage industries. Their fuel-needs for cooking, they said, were not much, for they had not much to cook. Having explained their own position they invariably turned to the amount of (forest) destruction that was taking place all around them. They asked how the ex-zamindars (landlords), in violation of their agreements and the forest rules and laws, devastated vast tracts of forest land right in front of officials. They also related how the contractors stray outside the contracted coupes, carry loads in trucks in excess of their authorized capacity and otherwise exploit both the forest and the tribal people. There is feeling among the tribal that all the arguments in favour of preservation and development of forests are intended to refuse them their demands. They argue that when it is a question of industry, township, development work or projects of rehabilitation, all these possible arguments are forgotten and vast tracts are placed at the disposal of outsiders who mercilessly destroy the forest wealth with or without necessity. I saw Monkeys on both sides of the road staring at the visitors for food. I really felt bad because many villagers cut the trees and it affects on these animals. They do not get fruits of the trees and so they stare for food. I saw Deer's, Peacocks and Elephants. In that area, I saw many people use Elephant for their own work, where as Bandipur National Park is known for Elephants.

It was midnight at 12 O'clock, when I reached Coimbatore. I tried to call few Rotaractors but I could not contact any one. I visited the nearest Police Station and requested the duty Officer to help me for spending night. The officer asked me to go to police Club that was around 2 Km. It was first time that I was walking after 12 O'clock in the night. I met a person on the way looked like a bad man he asked me where I am going so just to avoid him I lied and said I am a police and going for the training to Police Club. I found myself that I have become courageous person. I reached Police Club and contacted duty officer, explained him and requested to help for spending the night. He was very nice he agreed but before that he asked me to take out everything out of the rucksack. He told me that last year there was Bomb explosion in Coimbatore so they had to perform their duty. Officer made arrangement in a lodge. It was 2 O'clock to sleep. Next day I got up little late and called up the same number of a Rtr. that I tried last night. But this time I got Rtr. Mohammad. It was his office, so I couldn't get him last night. I explained him little about the expedition and requested him to come. He came down and took me to the factory (his own factory). Here I explained him in detail. He was shocked and started calling other Rotaractors. He took me to Rtr. Santosh's house, where two more members were there from Bangalore Rotaract Club, Niraj and Chandan. I had lunch at his house. His family members were praising me a lot, but his mother and grandmother both could not understand Hindi, so they were facing many problems while talking to me but they were wanted to talk to me much and they took help of Santosh. Actually in South India people do not speak Hindi Language. Widely spoken languages in south are the local languages. After lunch Rtr. Santosh took us at a sports club in his car. We enjoyed swimming in the Club. In the evening there was inauguration of Annual District Rotaract Trekking Program. We went to the venue, where Santosh asked one of the members to go with me to get my rucksack from the lodge. I carried my rucksack, thanked the lodge member and tried to meet the Police officer who helped me at night, but he was not there. I kept the message for him and requested the other officer to convey my regards. I came back at the venue and it was a play theatre and there were not less than 500 people. There was dinner followed by inaugural function and Cultural program. I got the opportunity to say few words and delivered my message to the audience. I noticed one thing during dinner the organizers means Rotaractors used Plastic glasses and Silver-plated Paper Dishes that is not environment friendly they should have used washable glasses and plates fully environment friendly. I found the same thing many places. Even educated people do not understand the importance and use of non-environment friendly material. I have noticed not only educated people but also the people who work for environment and related field they are not dedicated. You will find very few people who put their heart and soul for saving our mother earth, whichever way they can. Rtr. Santosh accommodated me in his house where the other two Rotaractors were also there. On Sunday all members were having Trekking program towards Ooty near Pillur Dam, around 60 Km from Coimbatore. We all got ready and reached on the spot, where every one supposed to gather. But as usual we were supposed to leave at 6.30, but moved at 7.30. We reached a village in an hour. There was a very big temple where in front of us lots of people were sacrificing Goats. I couldn't dare to see the scene. In India one cannot convince the priest or people for not sacrificing goats. It is very difficult. If one tries to do it people would sacrifice that person also. We waited for the food and water because of improper planning and arrangement. At last few members came carrying food packets. Each person and girl got their own food packet and a water bottle for the day. We started at 11.30 to climb. But half an hour later everyone started eating, as everyone was hungry. There was another problem that no one was aware about the route to go to Pillur Dam. We used to ask villagers, those whom we met on the way. But even then we missed the way and reached at a different place. It was a beautiful spot there was a waterfall around 150 feet high. We spent time at the bottom of the waterfall. We enjoyed a lot. We were supposed to reach Pillur Dam by 6 O'clock, so without wasting much time we started towards Dam searching and finding ways through forest. Finally we were successful to reach Pillur Dam and most important was in time. Because the bus was about to leave, it was 10 minutes past 6. First time in my expedition I enjoyed trekking with Rotaractors. At night we had dinner in the hotel and came back.

When I was leaving Santosh's house to go for the next destination, I saw tears in Aunty and grandmother's eyes. They loved me so much and treated as if I am part of their family and going away from them. Grandma prepared Dosa for me. I wanted to move towards Thrissur, (120 Km from Coimbatore), so I took blessings of all by touching their feet and moved ahead. Mostly in south sometimes I faced problem of hitchhiking because of language, at a place I saw a truck I met the driver and the helper they were preparing food. I explained them and requested to drop me at Thrissur. It was late evening, but still I waited for them as they promised me to drop at Thrissur. After dinner they dropped me at Thrissur at 10 O'clock. I called up Rtr. Solly Thomas. He came down to help me in his car with three other members. They made accommodation in a lodge, which was belongs to Rotaract member Jumman Koola. They did not wanted to take much time of mine, they asked me to take rest. After dinner, I slept at 11.30

It was 2nd March and I was in Kerala. All Rotaract members kept informal meeting at lodge itself. When I explained them in detail as usual the same thing happened, they were shocked, praised and spent lot of time enquiring more about the expedition. So after spending little time and heavy breakfast one of the members dropped me on the highway. I moved towards Cochin (90 Km from Thrissur) and reached in the evening at 7.30 p.m. I saw a Newspaper Office "Malyalam Manorama". After little explanation, the reporter took my interview and even took a photograph the one with Sachin Tendulkar. Then from the office itself, I called up Rtr. Binu Ninan Philip. He asked me to wait out of the gate of the News Paper Office. He picked me and straightway put me in a very good hotel. He took me in good restaurant for dinner and said he will come the next day with more members.

Next day, few members came to see me, I spent time with them. Rtr. Binu was very much impressed and wanted to show me few tourist places. He arranged a car for it. But I got to see only a Church where Vascodegama's dead body was kept for 14 year and later Portugal's carried it to Lisbon. Due to time constraint, I had to come back. I thanked all of them and started walk towards Quillon (Collam) (140 Km from Cochin) by walk and hitchhiking I reached 35 Km before Quillon at 10 O'clock. I never wanted to spend money on transportation but at night I could not get lift and because of language problem it was difficult to get place to sleep in villages in all over south. This time to reach Quillon I took bus. It was almost midnight 12. I called up Rtr. Vinod and requested him to help me. He came at the Bus station with in ten minutes. I had dinner in the nearest hotel where I was waiting for him. Spend night at his house and could sleep at 1.00 a.m.

I was not getting enough sleep. I was not feeling well again because of every day traveling and less sleep. I had breakfast and carried my rucksack. Rtr. Vinod and other members were wanted me to visit local News Paper Office, which was on the way. So after interviewing in two Newspaper Offices I thanked them and moved ahead towards Trivendrum. (Thiruvananthapuram) (70 Km). I was not feeling well. I bought l pack and had fruits on the way. After reaching Trivendrum, I called up Rtr. Arun. It was around 6 O'clock. He welcomed me. First I requested him to take me to Rotary Club meeting if any. Luckily there was a meeting and I got financial support. Rtr. Arun accommodated me at his house. There were 10-12 members at his house waiting for us. All welcomed me and spent lot of time with me. It was after long time, I washed my clothes and slept at night at 12.

I was happy to celebrate the first country that I would visit from Trivendram. This was the first time my planning failed. I planned to go to Colombo (Sri Lanka) by ship by requesting the Captain to allow me to travel free against which I would work. However, I came to know that Govt. stopped Ship journey because of robbery and terrorism by LTTE (Liberation Tiger of Tamil Elam). I was in trouble and there was no alternative, other than Airplane. I knew it would cost me a lot. Even then I tried to search various ways, I thought I would go by air and come back by Ship to Chennai (Madras). Today, the most important work was to be done and that was getting an air ticket. I was with one of the Rotaract members, Surya. First, we visited Air Lanka's office at AKG centre enquired about the airfare and after explaining about my expedition I requested for concession and one-way ticket. The officer told us that they cannot give any concession, but Ticket Agents would help. We went to a ticket agent explained the situation to the lady officer. We asked if I could get one-way ticket, so while returning back I can travel by ship. The lady told it is not possible. I must have return ticket with me and only airport officers would allow me to enter. After not finding any solution, I had to buy a Ticket, (Trivendrum- Colombo -Chennai) which cost me Rs. 5820/ with concession. I had to use Thomas Cook traveler's cheque (US$ 50) for the ticket, as I could not save and raise enough funds since I left Mumbai. The flight was on 6th March at 8.30 in the morning i.e. the next day. After getting the ticket, Surya and I visited office of Indian Express (Newspaper) and I gave an interview. We went to Malyalam Manorama Newspaper Office. I saw my news in Quillon edition with a big photograph of mine with Sachin. In the evening attained Rotaract Club meeting and then Rotary Club where I got financial assistance. After coming back I had dinner, met everyone of Arun's family and thanked them all, I packed my rucksack, as reporting was at 6.30 a.m. I slept late, at 12 again.

The day came to Fly, I got ready by 6 O'clock and moved with Arun. He dropped me at the Airport I thanked him and entered inside. I was so excited, because this was the first time I would be flying in the sky, as well as the first country of the Expedition I was going to. It was the first time in my life that I would go out of India. I took a trolley, but before that I enquired whether it was free or have to pay anything. But it was free I put my rucksack and moved for Custom Clearance, Immigration, Security Check etc. It took two hours to complete the procedure. Then I realized why reporting time was two hours before the Flight time. As I crossed the entrance gates one by one, I experienced each moment different and exciting. When I came at the ground where 3-4 Plane's were standing, I was stunt. It was my first time to see an Airplane from such a close distance. Within five minutes, a bus came and picked up all passengers towards Sri Lankan Airplane. I walked on the ladder steps and again at the entrance there was a security guard who checked all passengers. Five steps ahead, a beautiful Sri Lankan Air hostess welcomed us with a Rose. I was feeling great. I got a window seat. No one could understand the limit of my joy. After safety announcements the moment came, I locked the seat and waited for the take off. I was little scared thinking how it would be at the time of take off and how it would feel when the plane would fly in the sky. The neighbouring person was very cool because he had traveled many times by air and told me there is nothing to scare, do not worry. At last at 8.45, the Plane took off. I was holding my both hands on the seat tightly. The Plane took, off but nothing happen. It was very smooth take off. I enjoyed the speed and I got the window seat so could see down on the land from the glass windows. The Neighbouring person told me the facilities that are provided inside of the Airplane. With in five minutes, we got the refreshment. Actually you can have anything you want which is available. So I had Sandwiches and fruit juice. In between I used to see on land but there was no land because as soon as you leave Trivendrum, you have to cross, the Indian Ocean to reach Colombo. By the time we finish the refreshment there was announcement that we would be reaching Colombo at Bandarnayake Airport within ten minutes. Again there was announcement to tighten our seatbelt.


Sri Lanka

First Day The Airplane landed safely at the Colombo Airport. It was just 45 minutes flight. But I enjoyed it fully. It was my first experience in my life on a plane. Now I was suppose to get my rucksack. the person who was seating besides me guided me and I got the rucksack. I moved to call Rtr. Rufdi (met in Agra in "ROTASIA" meet). I was having his card with me, but the problem was of Sri Lankan Rupee. I went to a money exchange counter and requested a young person for exchange of Indian Rupees, but he said they do not do exchange of Indian Rupee. I had my Traveler's cheques of Thomas Cook but for that also I need to go in the city. I was converting about 500 rupees. I knew I could manage in Sri Lanka with that amount with the help of Rotary. So I requested the person to allow me to make a call. He agreed and I called up at Rufdi's house. His residence number was out of order. On his card he gave me his residence address too. So I enquired about that address. it was 30 Km from Airport. The person was very nice and understood my difficulty. he gave me 20 Sri lankan Rupee and asked me to go by bus, which, would drop me in that area. I came outside of the airport. Many taxi drivers were asking me if I need a ride. I moved towards the Bus stand. I got into a bus and reached in the area. After searching a lot, I got his house. Rtr. Rufdi was not at home but his mother and brother welcomed me and contacted Rufdi. By the time Rufdi came, his brother served me lunch. It was 12.30 Noon Indian time and Sri Lanka is half an hour fast so it was 1 p.m. First time I ate Sri Lankan food at his house. I even did not finish my lunch, when Rufdi came. He recognized and greeted me happily.

He enquired about the expedition and did not believe at all because he saw me almost three months before and surprisingly he said, "you are walking since then!!!!!" I explained to him my program and requested him that I would need your help. My plan was to attain Rotary Club meetings and get the name and addresses of the Rotarians enroute. But Rufdi told me that no Club meets on Saturdays and Sundays. Still Rufdi got the success. one Rotarian asked us to meet at his house in the evening. I thought on Saturday and Sunday I would do no work in Colombo, so it's better to start the journey from the next day (Sunday) itself. With the help of his father, we chocked out the Sri Lanka tour program. I made some changes in my previous tour program.

According to his father, it was not possible to go to Mannar. North part of Sri Lanka, from that point you could see India, there is a bridge that goes to India. My previous plan was to come by walk from the bridge. But that part is most dangerous and it is known as the house of the terrorist (LTTE). In July 1987, the Sri Lankan government and India worked out a plan for establishing peace in Sri Lanka. The plan called for a cease-fire and created a local government council in the Tamil region. Some Tamil guerrillas agreed to the plan, but others did not. Fighting broke out again later in the year. A new cease-fire was implemented in June 1989. Sinhalese nationalists who opposed any compromises between the government and the Tamils killed many government officials and supporters of the government. In June 1990, fighting resumed between Tamil rebels and government troops. Hundreds were killed in the violence. So I planned to cover 450 Km in Sri Lanka. I decided to make a Triangle and travel through Colombo-Anuradhapura-Kandy and back to Colombo because my flight was from Colombo. I requested Rufdi to keep Traveler's Cheques and confirm the return ticket for 27th March. Then at 4 O'clock, we visited the Newspaper Office, but the receptionist told us that Reporter does not come in the afternoon on Saturdays. Sea beach was close to the Press building, so we spent our evening on the beach. Population of Colombo is approximately 616,000. It is a seaport, and largest city of Sri Lanka. It lies on the west coast of the country. Most of the island's shipping passes through its harbour. Colombo is the centre of Sri Lanka's tea, coconut, and cotton trade. Colombo is an old city, founded before the mid-1300's. Scholars believe the city was originally known as Kolamba, a native term meaning both port and leafy mango tree. The name Colombo is the European version of this term. The Portuguese, who came in 1505, were the first Europeans to control Colombo. The Dutch occupied the city from 1656 to 1796 and erected a number of buildings that still stand. Perhaps the most impressive is the Wolfendhal Church, built in 1749. Colombo is also the home of the University of Sri Lanka. According to tradition, Buddha visited the temple of Kalaniya just outside Colombo. Commonwealth of Nations leaders set up the Colombo Plan there in 1950. After spending whole evening at the sea beech knowing about Colombo, we went to meet Rotarian Bobby Senaweera he was the DRCC (District Rotaract Comity Chairman) when he came to know about my expedition and about the problem of Sri Lankan money. He gave me 500 Sri Lankan rupees and told me, "Not to worry you would not require lot of money to travel in our country. Our people are very much hospitable and our Rotary Club's and members would help you a lot in your journey." He wished me and I thanked him for the support. I came back with Rufdi he spent all time with me even though he took leave for doing his own work. We had dinner in a hotel and reached home at night at 12. I packed my rucksack as I decided to move the next day and slept at 1.00

Second Day

I Got up at 6 O'clock and took bath. I saw that Uncle brought bread for me early in the morning and I said I would eat it on the way. I could not do exercise ,so I thought of eating after exercise on the highway. I was carrying a bottle of Jam with me, as I was not aware how Sri Lankan food would be. Uncle was very enthusiastic and he walked with me for around 5 Km, just to show the Highway by a short cut way. At last when I forced him to go back he went. Once he went back I did exercise and after sometime I had bread and Jam. Here one thing was really good. All habitant area and every few Kilometres, there ware fruit stalls cum home. After every hour or two, I used to have something or other I didn't had anything other than fruits. I faced language problem on the way, but I never spoke to many people, as I wanted to see and judge what kind of people are in Sri Lanka. Mostly I used body language. Many people used to stare at me when I used to buy fruits without any discussion. It was 6 O'clock evening, when I was 2 Km away of my first destination after Colombo. It was a small village called NITAMBUVA and it was around 40 Km from Colombo.

I was seating aside of the road, when one person stopped. He was looking at me and asked in English, "where I would like to go?" He was driving Hero Honda (Indian Bike) and stopped. He was looking at my Rucksack and maybe because I am an Indian. First I didn't cared, but then he got down and asked again, "Are you Indian?" I replied yes. I read his face and found him a nice person. I explained him about the expedition. He asked me "today you are coming from Colombo on foot?" I replied yes. he was shocked and got very excited. He requested me to come with him to his Shop. Even I wanted to have someone, who would help me for Rotary Club member.He took me to his Shop (Electronic shop of TV, Refrigerator and all home appliances).He introduced me to his brother (they were Twins) and all staff. He was so excited. he asked to have snacks. He gave me so much respect that I thanked God a lot for creating such people in this world. The world is not enough of good people. His name was Mr. Chandana Upul Kumara and he helped me a lot. I enquired about Rotary Club but he was not aware about it. He took me to the Police station. Sometime Police themselves used to help me for food and accommodation. I enquired here too, but the Police officer was stupid. He was not good in English and was behaving rudely. I was carrying all the documents with me and I never scared of Police. After checking the documents he said, "ok, now you can stay." I was so angry on his behaviour, as if I visited Police station to take permission to stay in that village. He did not help, but troubled. Mr. Chandana was feeling sorry for the Police Officers behaviour. I asked him if there is any temple near by where I can stay. With excitement he replied, "yes!" and took me to a Buddha's Temple. It was far inside and around 5-6 Km away from the highway. We passed through forest, as the temple was in the forest. He was a Buddhist and knew all monks of the temple. He explained to all monks about me and requested to provide accommodation for the night. I got a very good room, as the temple was build by Japanese man means funding. So it was very good temple. Chandana told me that he would come at night to pick me for dinner at his house. All Monks were young. Few of them knew broken English. I took a bath and changed my clothes. Mr. Chandana came at around 9.30 p.m. and took me to his house. He was young with a two years kid. his wife was smart and her smile was beautiful. She prepared very good food with special dish in little time. I was really not having words to thank God. I had very good Sri Lankan food and I cannot forget him and his wife. They were not from Rotary or any organization, but still they trusted and did so much for me. He asked me to be ready by 6 O'clock in the morning, as he would be going early and needed to drop me on the highway. He dropped me back to the temple and it was 11.45 to sleep.

Third Day

I was in deep sleep when Mr. Chandana knocked the door. When he knocked and shouted the second time, I got up. I requested him to give me just five minutes. I changed my clothes, wore my shoe, carried the Rucksack and within five minutes moved with him. I did not wanted to go alone because the temple was much inside and I didn't know the route to come out from that forest. It was still dark when I reached the highway. After exercise I started walking again. I had a heavy breakfast on the way. I noticed lots of trees. Thousands of trees and greenery on this highway and inside and there was no place where you won't find a tree. I had fruits and since I started from Colombo there might be hardly any place where people have not seen me. Every one used to stop their work and used to come out to see. Many people tried to ask me but in Singhalese Language, because people in Sri Lanka are not good in English. I reached Kurnegala at 7.00 p.m. but I was still on the highway. There was a medical shop and I went inside. I explained him and requested to help me to call Rotaract member. After trying a few numbers, I got Rtr. Lasthama. He was not so good in English and it was not possible to brief him, I requested shop owner to explain him in Singhalese. He was really kind and I explained him in detail and asked him to come. He came with another two members, Damith and Buddhika. They all welcomed and greeted me. I wanted to pay to the owner of the medical shop, but he didn't charge me. They took me to Rtr. Niroshan's house in their van. There I explained them in detail and told my plan in the city. We had dinner out in the hotel and stayed at Rtr. Buddhika's house. Slept at night at 12.

Fourth Day

Last night, I had a nice sleep. I had Sri Lankan breakfast (Hoppers with Dal. Hoppers are like noodles). it was delicious. We visited a school (First school in Sri Lanka) and contacted Principal, as she knew the Rotaract Members very well. When she came to know the purpose of expedition, she immediately asked peon to make arrangement for the speech. Within 15 minutes we went to a big hall where 100 girls students were sitting. They were selected students, as it not an English medium school. Vice principal introduced me to the girls and asked me to speak.Everywhere I used Swami Vivekananda's start i.e. "my dear sisters and brothers." Off course there were no boys students so I started with "my dear sister's......" The speech was interactive and the students were encouraged by the talk. The same response I got in another school, "Holy Family Vidyalaya" In the evening, all Rotaractors took me to the Rotary meet. There we met District Governer of Rotary District (he was from Colombo). I delivered the message and the club provided financial help. Those Rotaractors were having ego problem. I do not know on what point they were angry to Rotarian and they moved out without dinner. I missed very good dinner. We had enough snacks, but I even thought that I might get dinner at someone's place, but there was no chance. I could not leave them and go alone for dinner in a hotel. Those members were having internal clashes with them. There was no planning, and understanding. Just to sleep, I had to run to another Rotaractors house and slept at night at 12.

Fifth Day

I was supposed to go to Galgamua so I got ready, but my rucksack was at Buddhika's house. He came at 6.30 and I took the blessings of Niroshan's parents by touching their feet they felt very happy for not leaving the tradition. I went to Buddhika's house, packed my rucksack andmoved. Buddhika dropped me far ahead on the highway, as I wanted to reach at Galgamua village, which was around 65 Km From Kurnegala. I thanked him and moved. I had fruits after regular interval. I was spending enough money on health by having fruits in whole day and food at any Rotary or Rtr.'s house or in the hotel. In the evening I noticed one person followed me for a Km on his bike driving slowly behind me. Then he enquired looking at the banner, which was on my rucksack (stating Save Earth and Plant Trees with a picture of Tree.) I explained him in detail, as I found him an interesting person. His name was Disnayake and he was working with the Dept. of Forest. He requested me to visit him at his office. The office was in Galgamua itself which was still 6-7 Km. So I agreed and went with him. In the office, he introduced me to Range Forest Officer Mr. Siripal. I showed them the paper cuttings and photographs. It was 6 O'clock, but few staff members were still there. Everyone spent lot of time watching photographs. I requested Mr. Siripal to give few Posters to distribute in the schools. I got good posters in Singhalese Language. Then he asked me about the accommodation. I told him that I would be visiting any Rotary Club member in Galgamua and would see where I get place to sleep. He asked me, why do not you stay in our guesthouse? I was always ready to spend the night anywhere if I am getting it for free. The guesthouse was good, but the bathroom was very dirty. I took bath in the dirtiest bathroom ever in my expedition. 4-5 another officers were also staying in the same guesthouse. At night during dinner they wanted me to drink, but I denied. They were singing songs in Singhalese Language, they even asked me to sing Hindi song. I sung a song for them and explained the meaning. I was tired and wanted to go to sleep. Later, I felt bored and it was not possible at all to sit there. Still I spent almost half night with them and took leave to sleep. It was first time in the whole expedition that Govt. people helped me a lot other than Police.

Sixth Day

Nice stay it was with the govt. officers. I thanked all of them and moved ahead towards Anuradhapura. Here if you want to have breakfast it costs at least 50 rupees. I used to have breakfast in the hotel and fruits during my walk. I was taking a lot of precautions on the part of water. Either I used to buy or used to ask for boil water. Today a very funny thing happened. At a small stall I requested a person to give me boil water. I gave him my water bottle, and he poured the water in it and kept in front of the fire. It was just two minutes that I was talking to other person, when I saw my bottle. It shrunk and I was angry, but at the same time laughing on that poor fellow. I do not know whether he didn't understand or ............ god knows. That last ten Km, my legs were paining a lot because it was third consecutive day of walk. Actually in Sri Lanka I never felt bored because the whole area was habitant. I used to get houses and people hardly for a Km or two empty places or inhabitant place. People used to encourage me a lot. I got one Rotarians phone number from Buddhika so I called up but he could not help me much other than providing meeting address. My luck was good that it was meeting day. I reached at the venue at 7.30 p.m. It was a hotel and I enquired about Rotary meeting. 8-10 Rotary members were there. They welcomed me and asked to explained them and requested for accommodation. Everyone greeted and ate Dinner and was dropped at Rotarian D. W. R. Gunasekera's house. He was in the meeting and told that he would accommodate me in his house. First night there was not much talk, I got a good room and I slept early at 10.00 p.m.

Seventh Day

I got to see the lavishness and living standard of Sri Lankan people. In the morning when I entered bathroom saw a bathtub. It was very expensive and imported one. I was really surprised and found that living standard of Sri Lankan was very high, even in the villages. After bath I had a very nice Sri Lankan breakfast, hoppers with pee and fruits. Mr & Mrs. Gunasekera both were very kind and treated me as their son. I washed a few clothes today and moved to visit schools. Mr. Gunasekera gave me few names and addresses of Schools and News Paper Office. I got a bicycle from his daughter, as she was married and Mr. Gunasekera used to go on drive sometimes. First I visited St. Joseph High School. When I contacted Principal, he started arguing with me on LTTE part, "You Indians have created lot of problems in Sri Lanka and now what you want." I kept cool and tried to convince him, but he was not ready to listen.


LTTE

Formed in 1972, the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE), with an estimated strength in 1998 of about 9,000 guerrillas, had fought since 1983 to establish an independent Tamil state, Eelam, in the northern and eastern provinces of Sri Lanka, where most of the country's Tamil minority resided. One of the world's most sophisticated and tightly organized insurgent groups, the LTTE during the 1970s carried out a number of guerrilla attacks. Following large-scale violence that broke out in Sri Lanka in July 1983 in retaliation for the killing of 13 soldiers by Tamil guerrillas, the LTTE launched a full-scale "armed revolutionary struggle" against the government. By May 1985 the LTTE was in control of Jaffna and most of the Jaffna Peninsula in northern Sri Lanka, and by 1986 it had eliminated most of its rival Tamil groups.

The LTTE lost control of Jaffna in October 1987 to an Indian peacekeeping force (IPKF) that had been sent to Sri Lanka to assist in the implementation of a complete cease-fire. Following the withdrawal of the IPKF in March 1990, however, the Tigers grew in strength and conducted several successful guerrilla operations. These included an August 1992 land-mine explosion in Jaffna, which killed 10 senior military commanders; the May 1993 assassination of Sri Lankan Pres. Ranasinghe Premadasa; and a January 1996 suicide bomb attack on the central bank of Colombo, which killed 100 people.

Although the LTTE and the government resumed peace talks in January 1995, at which the LTTE indicated that it would be willing to accept some form of self-government instead of full independence, by April of that year the talks had broken down, and the Tigers unilaterally ended the truce. Fighting has not ceased since that time, and the Tigers have rejected government proposals. In 1998 the Tigers remained a credible force, as demonstrated by their ability to resist government attempts in 1997-98 to take control of the strategic road linking the Jaffna Peninsula with the rest of the island. Although the LTTE had recently indicated an interest in resuming negotiations with the government, Tiger activity seemed likely to continue.

Later I visited almost five schools but really disappointment because not even a single school allowed me to talk. All school Principal asked me to get a letter from Education Dept. Even after showing Photographs, News Paper cuttings and Passport. (Mr. Gunasekera suggested me to keep Passport, as there were lot of check posts and School principal might ask.) Actually because of LTTE problem, no one wanted to take risk, as Anuradhapura onwards foreigners are not allowed to go. It was all restricted area. I tried to get help from the Education Officer but because of election everyone was busy. (I was very angry on politicians, for the promotional activity these politicians used lot of polythene or plastic like in whole city there were banners and flags in plastic indicating sign of the particular party. Even govt. use lot of polythene while road construction or renovation to indicate that work is in progress and I saw that plastic strip for kilometres.) The Forest office was next to Education Dept. I contacted forest officer and requested to give a letter, but he replied not possible. However, he gave me a few posters. I came back after lot of traveling. I explained the whole story to Mr. & Mrs. Gunasekera they felt sorry for their countrymen for disappointing me. I had lunch and visited few historic places like Shri Mahabodhi, Surumuni, Twin Pond and Samadhi Statue.

Here I heard a story of Royal decree of King Kirthi Nissanka Malla of Polonnaruwa (2nd Century AD) Stone inscription at Ruwanveli Dagaba, Anuradhapura. "...... ordering by beat of drum that no animals should be killed within a radius of seven gau from the city (Anuradhapura) the King gave security to animals. He gave security also to the fish in the twelve great tanks and bestowing on Kambodin-gold and cloth and whatever other kind of wealth they wished, he commanded them not to catch birds and so gave security to birds."

On the way back at a check post, Police checked my Bag, File, I-card and Passport. They were very strict to me but later when they saw my file they asked me more about my expedition. After coming back, Mr. Gunasekera asked me to get ready for dinner at Rotarian Gunatilaka's house, actually when Rotarian Gunatilaka told at his house about me, his wife was wanted to see and meet me. Mr. Gunasekera told me that there is special invitation for me from Aunty. We all reached to Rotarian Gunatilaka's house. Aunty welcomed me, she got so happy to see me. She shook my hands and showed her excitement. It was unbelievable welcome and response from whole family. She prepared lot of special dishes for me. I had really delicious dishes and at the end, I had fruit juice and Ice cream. Before leaving Rotarian Gunatilaka, he asked me the next destination. I told him that I would go to Kekirawa the next day. He told there is no Rotary Club but then he contacted Mrs. Koswatta one of his friend, she lives in Kekirawa, explained her and told to make necessary arrangements for me. He gave me her Phone number and address. I thanked all and came back with Mr. & Mrs. Gunasekera. I was suppose to move the next day, so I packed my rucksack and slept at 11.30 p.m.

Eighth Day

I was enjoying Sri Lankan breakfast everywhere. Uncle and Aunty took lot of care at their house. I moved ahead towards Kekirawa after thanking all. Uncle suggested me to go by short cut, which would come around 45 Km. I walked whole day and had fruits on the way and got the same response from local people. I reached Kekirawa at 7.15 p.m. and went to Mrs. Koswatta's house after calling her. She, her daughter and three cousins welcomed me. My room was ready. Aunty was so nice and she trusted on me even though there were four young girls at home. (I am sure in India no one would keep me if any one has so many girls in anyone's house) Their names were Apsara, Poornima, Ramya and Umali. Within no time, I became their friend and spent time with the girls because there was no male in their house. Had nice dinner and slept at 10.45 p.m.

Ninth Day

It was almost a week since I left Colombo and today I will reach Matale. Aunty asked her cook to prepare food, which she packed for me and after breakfast she dropped me at Dambulla. Before leaving, I said goodbye to all girl friends. Dambulla was 18 Km from Kekirawa, as she was going to buy vegetables and even Matale was around 70 Km. It is not possible to cover the distance only by walk. Aunty dropped me at Dambulla. I thanked her and started my walk. As usual I spent the whole day meeting nice people, having fruits and watching beautiful scenes. Enroute in a forest (little away from the road) I saw domesticated elephants at work, moving huge trees. I was really happy and my curiosity increased to see them. I know little about the work done by the elephants. "One elephant can drag five tons at a time," I was told. "He's a grand workman, never tires. Never strikes for more pay. So as long as he gets his two meals a day, he's quite happy."

Suddenly, it began to rain in the evening. I called up Rtr. Mahendran (Ref-Rtr. Buddhika from Kurnegala). He came to the place and took me to Matale, which was still 4-5 Km and it was around 6 O'clock. There was no need to explain him, as he was already aware about my expedition. He took me to his house where everyone welcomed me. He kept my rucksack in his room. I spent some time with him chatting, had dinner and slept at 10.00

Tenth Day

In the morning during breakfast, I saw Mahatma Gandhi's Photo at his house. I was shocked and asked how come? He told me that they were originally from India and his brother stood for election, from all India community party. He also told me that all Tamils are of Indian origin. Mahendran took me to Cambridge International School. It is the first English school in Sri Lanka that I visited. Actually in 1956 S. W. R. D. Bandaranaike became Prime Minister and his government passed a law that made Sinhala the country's only official language. The Tamils resented this action, and clashes broke out between Tamils and Sinhalese. Compromises were made to provide for the use of Tamil in many areas. A Sinhalese extremist assassinated Bandaranaike in 1959. His widow, Sirimavo Bandaranaike, became Prime Minister in 1960. She was the world's first woman prime minister. Her party lost control of Parliament in 1965, and Dudley Senanayake then became Prime Minister. But Sirimavo Bandaranaike regained the office in 1970. In 1972, the country changed its name from Ceylon to Sri Lanka, which means Resplendent Land. The chief issue in Sri Lanka today is the relationship between the Sinhalese and the Tamils. The Sinhalese have controlled the country's government since independence. Tamils believe that Sinhalese-dominated governments have limited their opportunities for education and jobs. In 1983, violence broke out between Tamil guerrillas and Sinhalese government troops in the north. Thousands of people were killed and more than 100,000 Tamils fled to India. So you do not get many English medium schools in Sri Lanka, but now people understood the value of English language. I had a very nice talk with around 150 students. It was one of the Rotary Club Member's school so we got the permission, otherwise all schools were having sports meet and there was no possibility. Mahendran could not spent much time with me and went to his shop after dropping me at home. I spent time watching Cricket match on TV. His sister gave me lunch and took a lot of care of me. The family used to have non-vegetarian food, but especially for me they prepared vegetarian food. After lunch I slept for some time. In the evening, Mahendran came and asked me to get ready, as one of the Interactor (It's again part of Rotary but the members are below 15 years and known as Interactor) has invited us for Dinner. He was very much encouraged by talk and said he would like to do the same. His mother was at home, she welcomed and praised a lot. We had dinner and came back.

Eleventh Day

I am having a nice time with people in Sri Lanka. Today we visited another School, which is known as Royal English School and delivered the speech. Mahendran took me in a very big hotel, where there was a special Rotary meeting. The meeting was for Indian Rotary Club members. There were around 8-10 Rotarians from Calcutta. I met them and when they came to know about me, they were very happy to see an Indian doing such a great work. They were proud of me. We had lunch and after the meeting we sung the National anthem of India as well as Sri Lanka's. Before leaving, many Rotary member gave their Visiting Cards to visit them in Calcutta. In the evening he took me to a historic place at a huge Buddha statue and after that for swimming in the river with one of his friend. It was evening time and rain started again. We went to his friends house watched a movie and came back. I had dinner at his house and slept at night at 11.00

Twelfth Day

Mahendras sister was really taking a lot of care. When Mahendran told her that I would be moving today, she prepared Parotha's for me. I had a very good and heavy breakfast. Kandy was the next destination, which was just 22 Km but all hills. I thanked everyone and Mahendran dropped me on the highway. He spoke to Rtr. Mark and told him about me. He gave me Mark's phone number and address. I thanked him and moved at 8.30. I reached at 2.00 p.m. Because of two days rest, I felt fresh to walk and covered the distance very fast. I contacted Mark after reaching but he was not there, his father was on line. After explaining him, he asked me to come to the office. It was a construction site and his company name was Stephan Construction site. He welcomed me and provided snacks and fruits. By 4 O'clock, Mark came and greeted me. He was a very nice person. Within five minutes, he started behaving as if he knows me since long time. We washed his car at the site and then we went to his house where he was staying with his wife. He was of 21 yrs and his wife was of 20 yrs old. It was a love marriage and she was expecting baby. (She was pregnant) He told me that I would be staying here. I really got a shock. His wife just 20 yrs and he asked me to stay at his house. It was just unbelievable. Even it's not that someone else also stays in the house such as his mother or brother or anybody. More over, he told me that he was going out and would be coming in half an hour. I was getting shocked. You won't see a person like him trusted and believed on me. In India or anywhere you won't get the same trust. His house was not even in the building. His house was at the lonely place on a mountain. I thanked god and prayed for a very good and peaceful life with full of love. I took bath and spent chatting with his wife. Her name was Tarangini. She was beautiful and very nice girl. After half an hour, Mark came and took me to Rotary and Inner wheel (It's a part of Rotary, but run by only female group) meetings. These Clubs were highly enthusiastic, both the club supported me financially. Kandy is known to be Bombay of Sri Lanka. It is a tourist beautiful city. At night after Dinner Mark, his wife and me went on the top of the hill of the same mountain. There was a huge white coloured Buddha's statue that can be seen from anywhere in the city. At night, you get very good view of whole Kandy town. Kandy is surrounded with the hills.

Important independent monarchy in Ceylon (Sri Lanka) at the end of the 15th century and the last Sinhalese kingdom to be subjugated by a colonial power. Kandy survived the attacks of Ceylon's first two colonial rulers--the Portuguese and the Dutch--and finally succumbed to the third and last colonial ruler, the British, in 1818. While all the other Sinhalese kingdoms had been extinguished by the Portuguese in the early 1600s, Kandy survived with stubborn persistence for another two centuries.

Under Portuguese rule, Kandy allied itself with the Dutch; under Dutch rule, it sought assistance from the British. From the time of the British takeover of Ceylon in 1796, Kandy was thrown on its own resources. The British considered the continued independence of Kandy a hindrance to the expansion of both their trade and their communications network in Ceylon. The first British attack against Kandy in 1803 was a failure. By 1815, however, the Kandyan chiefs became dissatisfied with their tyrannical king (of South Indian descent) and welcomed British intervention. In the ensuing agreement of 1815, the Kandyan Convention, the Kandyan king was deposed and sovereignty was vested in the British crown, but the rights of the Kandyan chiefs were largely maintained. Soon, the chiefs became dissatisfied with this arrangement and openly rebelled in 1817 but were decisively subjugated by the British in 1818. Ceylon was thus brought, for the first time in many centuries, under unified rule.

Thirteenth Day

The next day, I delivered my speech in three Schools, which were Girls High School, Mahamaya High School and Dharmaraja High School. I got very good response and the speech was successful. Mark was with me and we came back at Noon, had lunch and I took rest for some time. I went alone to see the Temple of Tooth Relic.


Buddhist Pilgrimage

Within the first two centuries following the Buddha's death, pilgrimage had already become an important component in the life of the Buddhist community. During these early centuries of Buddhist history there were at least four major pilgrimage centres--the place of the Buddha's birth at Lumbini, the place of his Enlightenment at Bodh Gaya, the Deer Park in Varanasi (Benares) where he supposedly preached his first sermon, and the village of Kusinara, which was recognized as the place of his Parinirvana. During this period, the place of the Buddha's Enlightenment at Bodh Gaya was the most important pilgrimage centre; it continued to hold a preeminent position through much of Buddhist history, and it is the major pilgrimage site of world Buddhism today.

In addition to these four primary sites, major pilgrimage centres have emerged in every region or country where Buddhism has been established. Many local temples have their own festivals associated with a relic enshrined there or an event in the life of a sacred figure. Some of these, such as the display of the tooth relic at Kandy, Sri Lanka, are occasions for great celebrations attracting many pilgrims. In many Buddhist countries famous mountains have become sacred sites that draw pilgrims from both near and far. In China, for example, four such mountain sites are especially important: O-mei, Wu t'ai, P'u-t'o, and Chiu-hua. Each is devoted to a different bodhisattva whose temples and monasteries are located on the mountainside. In many Buddhist regions there are pilgrimages that include stops at a whole series of sacred places. One of the most interesting of these is the Shikoku pilgrimage in Japan, which involves visits to 88 temples located along a route that extends for more than 700 miles.Buddhist pilgrimages, like pilgrimages in other religions, are undertaken for a wide range of reasons. For some Buddhists, pilgrimage is a discipline that fosters spiritual development; for others it is the fulfillment of a vow--as, for example, after recovery from an illness; and for others it is simply an occasion for travel and enjoyment. Whatever the motivations that support it may be, pilgrimage is one of the most important Buddhist practices.

It is one of the historic places in Kandy. Construction was going on because of last year's bomb blast by terrorist in the temple. In the evening we all three moved in the city. Mark introduced me to another Rtr. and we all went to a shopping complex where, Mark and Tarangini did shopping. After dinner we enjoyed a movie and again at night Mark went to drop his friend at 11.30 leaving his wife alone. I slept in the same room, where we were watching the movie.

Fifteenth Day

After spending almost two days in Kandy, I was preparing to go to Kegalle early morning. But I saw Tarangini has prepared breakfast for me even after denying a lot. I had breakfast, thanked both of them and moved towards Kegalle, which was just 38 Km. I never met such a good loving couple. On the way while walking, a car stopped and the driver asked me if I would like to hitchhike. I thanked and denied, but the person again stopped and he himself introduced me that he was a Rotary Member and met me in Kandy Rotary meet. I said sorry for not recognizing. He was very happy to see that I was walking. He wished me and left. It was very hot, but still I covered the distance by 5 O'clock. I always had a very nice walk after one or two day rest. I reached at Central Photo Studio, where a Kandy Rotarian informed one of the Rotary members. He welcomed me and provided snacks and fruits to eat. Rotary Club President Rotarian Adikari M. Tennakoon came and took me to his house, where Aunty welcomed me and offered fruit juice. There was Rotary meet and Rotarian Adikari took me for the meeting along with him. I talked a lot about expedition and told that I would like to visit a few schools here. One of the Rotarian asked me to wait till Monday, as there was program for the students and 5-6 School students (Selective) would be attaining the program. I did not wanted to miss the great opportunity to deliver message to 5-6 schools, as I can request them to spread message in their own schools. I agreed to spend time till Monday. After coming back I spent time with the sports personalities of his family, his son and daughter Samadhi. I played with them on their computer too. After dinner I slept at 11.30

Sixteenth Day

On 19th of March, I visited the Elephant Orphanage (the only orphanage in the world for Elephants) with Uncle and his nephew. It was 8 Km from Kegalle. Uncle told me that there is an entry fee (through which the organization maintains this Orphanage) for foreigners, but free for Sri Lankan. They asked me to keep quiet at the entrance, as there is no difference in Indian and Sri Lankan. But I might get caught because of language, so I kept quite till we enter. There were lots of foreigners and many with their kids. They say an elephant never forgets, but what happens when an elephant is forgotten? In Sri Lanka, they can find refuge at the Pinowlew Elephant Farm, a home for orphaned and abandoned elephants who cannot survive in the wild. People feed, groom and care for 46 elephants on the farm. The babies drink milk at body temperature from super-size bottles and seven per feeding. "Maybe at first they can't find their own food. So we bring it to them here," said Idris Salley, a caretaker at the elephant farm. Outcasts like Raja, an old blind elephant who was wounded by hunters, live on the farm, as does an elephant rumoured to have killed more than a dozen people. The farm supports itself in part through tourists, who come for a rare close-up view of the animals. "I have always been fascinated by them. So to come and get so close to them and to be able to touch them is a wonderful experience," I said to uncle Hard as they are to resist, adoption should be considered carefully. The cute little orphans could someday grow to several tons. And they would be demanding dinner for the next 100 years.

Instead, some of the elephants go out and find jobs in circuses and zoos around the world and pay back the upbringing with attendance fees. The theme of wildlife conservation has been an ancient concept in Sri Lanka. It was considered noble in keeping with the teachings of Gouthama Buddha and later essential to the Island. I took many photographs and enjoyed a lot. There was a rest house on the small hill. The view was different from the rest house. We had lunch at the rest house and spent almost three hours and came back. It was great experience to see so many Elephants. I came back and thanked everyone, as I was going to stay with Rotarian Bannayake. I carried my rucksack and moved with Kapil. This family also welcomed me with lot of respect. Mr. Ayodhya does Computer business. His brother was so nice, but was having some health problem for which he went to India twice in Apollo Hospital. I hope and pray for his good health and early cure. I watched a Hindi and an English movie on the Computer. I had dinner at 9.00 and Uncle told me that he would be going to Kandy Open University the next day. He asked if I would like to talk with the university students? I said it's good to spend Sunday with the University students, as I was free on Sunday. Then I slept at 10.30 p.m.

Seventeenth Day

I moved with Uncle after breakfast towards Kandy. I vomited in the bus because of stomach upset. Uncle left for university and asked me to come after an hour. I spent good time knowing the history of the tooth relic


Relic

In religion, strictly, the mortal remains of a saint; in the broad sense, the term also includes any object that has been in contact with the saint. Among the major religions, Christianity, almost exclusively in Roman Catholicism, and Buddhism have emphasized the veneration of relics.

The basis of Christian cult veneration of relics is the conception that reverence for the relics redounds to the honour of the saint. While expectation of favours may accompany the devotion, it is not integral to it. The first Christian reference to relics speaks of handkerchiefs carried from the body of St. Paul to heal the sick. During the 2nd century AD, in the Martyrdom of Polycarp, the bones of the martyred bishop of Smyrna are described as "more valuable than precious stones." The veneration of relics continued and grew in Christianity. Generally, the expectation of miracles increased during the Middle Ages, while the flood of Oriental relics into Europe during the Crusades raised serious questions as to their authenticity and ethical procurement. St. Thomas Aquinas, the great Roman Catholic theologian, however, considered it natural to cherish the remains of the saintly dead and found sanction for the veneration of relics in God's working of miracles in the presence of relics.

Roman Catholic thought, defined in 1563 at the Council of Trent and subsequently affirmed, maintained that relic veneration was permitted and laid down rules to assure the authenticity of relics and exclude venal practices. Among the most venerated of Christian relics were the fragments of the True Cross.

In the Eastern Orthodox churches, devotion is focused on icons rather than upon relics, though the antimension (the cloth upon which the divine liturgy is celebrated) always contains a relic. The attitude of the 16th-century Protestant Reformers toward relics was uniformly negative, and the veneration of relics has not been accepted in Protestantism.

Like Christianity, Islam has had a cult of relics associated with its founder and with saints. In Islam, however, the use of relics has had no official sanction; indeed, Muslim theologians have frequently denounced the veneration of relics and the related practice of visiting the tombs of saints as conflicting with the prophet Muhammad's insistence on his own purely human, nondivine nature and his stern condemnation of idolatry and the worship of anyone other than God himself.

Relic worship was canonically established in Buddhism from its earliest days. Tradition (Mahaparinibbana Sutta) states that the cremated remains of the Buddha (d. c. 483 BC) were distributed equally among eight Indian tribes in response to a demand for his relics. Commemorative mounds (stupas) were built over these relics, over the vessel from which the bones were distributed, and over the collective ashes of the funeral pyre. The emperor Asoka (3rd century BC) is said to have redistributed some of the relics among the innumerable stupas he had erected. Such shrines became important and popular centres of pilgrimage.

According to legend, seven bones (the four canine teeth, the two collarbones, and the frontal bone) were exempted from the primary distribution, and these have been the object of widespread devotion, with a number of shrines dedicated to them throughout Asia. Most famous of these sarira ("corporeal relics") is the left canine tooth, honoured at the Temple of the Tooth at Kandy, Sri Lanka. Other shrines reportedly have housed certain personal possessions of the Buddha, such as his staff or alms bowl. The alms bowl (patra), particularly, is associated with a romantic tradition of wanderings and, in different historical periods, has been variously reported as located in Peshawar or in Ceylon (Sri Lanka). In addition, the bodily remains and personal effects of the great Buddhist saints and heroes are also venerated. In Tibetan Buddhism, worship is accorded the carefully preserved bodies of the deceased priest kings (the Dalai Lamas), who in their lifetimes are regarded as reincarnations of a heavenly being, the bodhisattva Avalokitesvara.

Although the primary objective of Buddhist relic worship is the engendering of faith and the acquisition of spiritual merit, popular legends of miraculous powers have sprung up around the relics and the places in which they are deposited. In Hinduism, although images of divine beings have a major place in popular devotion, the veneration of relics as found in Christianity, Islam, and Buddhism is largely absent. This is probably a result of two facts: Hinduism has no historical founder, as do the other three religions, and it tends to regard the world of physical, historical existence as ultimately an illusion. Thus the mortal remains and earthly possessions of religious heroes or holy men are not generally regarded as having particular spiritual value.

After spending good time in temple and then went to the Kandy Open University by bus. First Uncle called some student leaders of the university. I explained them little about the talk, which they found interesting and gathered 40-50 students in a class. It was first time in the expedition I delivered speech to the University students. It was nice and interactive, but most of the questions were about the expedition. I spent lot of time with the students.

Here I would like to tell you a story of a girl, who said that she wants to join me as she fell in love with me. I replied to her that walking along with a girl that too without preparation and planning, is just impossible. Anybody cannot stand and join the walk. Regarding love I replied, yes we can be best friends. I met lots of girls on the way, who were in love with me but I concentrated towards my goal.

In the evening we came back to Kegalle. It was raining heavily. After coming back, we came to know that one of the Rotary Member has invited us for dinner. He himself came to pick us up in his car. We had delicious dishes at his house. He had two daughters Madhu and Nimisha of 9 and 11 years old respectively. Uncle bought Roti's for me from an Indian hotel I had first time in Sri Lanka. After dinner we came back. At home, Uncle introduced me to his daughter Tyohari, I saw her many times but she was shying a lot so I never spoke to her.

Eighteenth Day

Ayodhya and Tyohari gifted me a T-shirt. I had a WWF Telephone diary that I gifted them. Later Tyohari became so close friend that even she used to seat with me and Chat on expedition experience. Neighbouring people used to ask about me. All family members used to introduce me proudly that someone from India is staying with them and have come on foot. These people made me a very big person and respected me a lot. I thanked and said goodbye to all. They all gave me so much love and affection, even they were unhappy to say goodbye. I carried my rucksack and moved with Uncle to the St. Joseph Girls High School, where the seminar was arranged. There were around 500 School Students from five schools in the Auditorium. We went inside the auditorium. We got a seat on the dais. Students were looking at me, as I wore WWF T-shirt and having Posters and Stickers with me. There was another program also but first there was my speech. Uncle praised me a lot and asked to talk to the students. As I got up students started clapping. So you can imagine how much Uncle praised and talked about me. The students were charged just by introduction. I started the speech and I could see the excitement and motivation in the students' eyes. I requested them to make a group of students, visit each class of their own school and spread the message all over Kegalle Schools. I presented few Banners, which were in Singhalese Language and WWF stickers for five schools. The speech was so good and impressive, even I liked it very much. Uncle presented me a Rotary Club Flag there. When I said goodbye to all the students, their smile and eyes were wishing me best luck. They were very excited and happy to meet me for the autograph. But then Uncle announced that I am getting late, as I wanted to move ahead. I came out of the school. My rucksack was in one of the Rotarians car, so I took my rucksack and moved towards Nittambuwa (If you remember first night that I spent after Colombo, it was the same place, now the last destination before Colombo).

I walked on the highway with the sweet memories of Uncle Bannayke's house. It seemed to be raining but didn't rain. So weather was good for walking and 2-3 days rest made me fresh to walk fast. In the evening at 7 O'clock I reached at Mr. Chandana's shop, he welcomed and took me at the same temple. The monks also welcomed and got the same room. Today I spent very much time with the monks. Mr. Chandan brought hoppers from his house for me at the temple. It was still 11.30 to sleep.

Nineteenth Day

I got ready to move because it was already late, but the monks forced me to have breakfast. I thanked them and Mr. Chandana took me to his house. His wife also forced me to eat fruits. At last I thanked her and prayed for their good and healthy life. I came on the highway with Mr. Chandana & started to walk. On the way I saw a school where the students were cleaning the campus. They were also burning the leaves, which is harmful for the nature. I thought of educating them at least on that part. I entered into the school gate, where all the students stopped their work and started to stare at me. I saw one teacher and went to her to explain her about the expedition and purpose. I requested her to gather some students, so that I can explain them what they can do with the leaves instead of burning it. The teacher did not allow permission because the Principal was not in the school. I tried a lot to make him understand how important it is to talk to them for two minutes. At last when I realized that I wouldn't get permission I requested him to explain the students and not to burn leaves, but make compost pit instead. I moved ahead having fruits and enjoying my walk. At one place I met an interesting and friendly person, where I asked for water. It was his shop and he asked me to sit and offered me biscuits. He asked me many questions on expedition, he took lots of photographs and gifted a pen. I denied and said I do not need any kind of gift but he forced me to keep it. He showed me his wife and daughter's photographs and wanted me to spend night at his house cum shop. I was getting late to reach Rufdi's house, as I was few Km away from Colombo. I was not believing that I had come back after covering around 500 Km in fifteen days.

I called up Rtr. Rufdi and asked about accommodation and whether I stay at his house or at any other place. He asked me to go to his house. I went to his house but Uncle was not at home. After ten minutes Uncle came and greeted me. We spent lot of time and I shared my experience of last 15 days in Sri Lanka. Today I had a very different food. I had Roti and Chapati in the dinner. Rufdi was very busy so I could see him only at 10.30 and slept at 11 without spending much time with him.

Twentieth Day

Rufdi left early morning for work. Uncle helped me a lot. He gave me a few school names and addresses. After visiting two schools I came to know that all schools in Colombo were having exams. So I could not visit and deliver my message to any school in Colombo. I came back and waited for Uncle. After spending some time with Uncle, we me went to Air Lanka office. But the flights were booked till 27th. Uncle met his friend who suggested us to go to Indian Airlines office. We visited Indian Airlines office and realized that the ticket was non-transferrable. We went back to Air Lanka Office. I explained the PRO to help me. First Uncle spoke to the PRO in Singhalese and explained to her about the expedition. When she saw my file, she spoke to her boss and asked him to do something. I was wanted to move on 26th, but it was full. However, on 25th there was a vacancy. I booked that ticket and reconfirmed. The flight was at 7.40 p.m. on 25th March. If uncle would not have come with me, it was really very difficult to get seat on 25th Flight. While returning back Uncle took me to the Press where the Reporter asked me to give a readymade article to him, which I did not have. It was 3 p.m. when we came back and had lunch with different fruits, which I never had. In the evening Rufdi and I visited one of the Rotary Clubs meet and got financial support. Rotarian Shabin was very much impressed with me and he invited us for dinner. After the meeting we went to his house where he introduced me to his family members. I enjoyed dinner and came back at 10.30.

I called up Rtr. Hetal Shah and informed him after explaining and referring to Agra meet. He remembered and replied do not worry. He would pick me up from the Airport. I told him the Flight timings I was happy that Hetal remembered me.

Twenty-first Day It was 25th of March 1999 and my last day in Sri Lanka. I wrote Thank you letters to all the Rotary and Rotaract Clubs who helped me here in Sri Lanka. Rufdi returned me the Travelers cheques, which last time I kept with him, as a part of safety. After lunch I packed my rucksack, thanked all and took blessings of Uncle and Aunty. Rufdi dropped me at the Bus stand at 4 O'clock, as Airport was far from his house. I reached Bandarnayake Airport. I was again excited to enjoy a different experience. I was flying at night and flying in the sky for more than an hour, as flight would take approximately one hour and ten minutes to reach Chennai (Madras). This time I was behaving as if I traveled many times by air. What nervousness I was having at the first time was not this time. I knew what to be done and how? I met few Sri Lankan boys who were studying in Bangalore. They purchase many Cigar boxes of 555 brands from the custom shop. I enquired them what they would be doing with so many Boxes? One of them replied, "we would be selling it in India". He told me how much they could earn because from the custom shop they get it very cheap. They can earn almost the amount equals to the airfare, which means their traveling was free. Later, I found many people buying something or other in more quantity. After completing all formalities I entered in an Airplane. Again the same announcements and same refreshment, but the difference was beauty. That time I didn't get window seat. But still I was able see sometimes.

About Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is a beautiful country in the Indian Ocean. It lies about 32 kilometres off the southeast coast of India. Its official name is the Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka. The country was formerly called Ceylon. The island of Sri Lanka was called Ceylon until 1972. The earliest inhabitants of the island were tribal peoples called the Yaksa and the Naga. The Veddahs are descendants of these peoples. Vijaya, a legendary prince from northern India, is said to have led the founders of the Sinhalese culture to Ceylon. The Sinhalese probably began to arrive during the 400's B.C. They settled in the northern part of the island and built advanced irrigation systems to support agriculture. The city of Anuradhapura was the centre of Sinhalese civilization from the 200's B.C. until A.D. 993.

Tamils from southern India invaded the island, perhaps as early as the 100's B.C. From the A.D. 400's until the arrival of the Portuguese in the 1500's, the history of Ceylon centred on struggles between Sinhalese kings and Tamil kings. Tamils eventually gained control of the northern half of the island. The Sinhalese moved into the southern half of the island. Arab traders, whose descendants are the Moors, began arriving in the 700's.

European control of Ceylon began in the 1500's. The Portuguese sailed into what is now Colombo Harbour in 1505. They gradually gained control of the island's major coastal areas. The Dutch replaced the Portuguese in the mid-1600's.

The British captured the Dutch territories in 1795 and 1796. They made Ceylon a crown colony in 1802. They took over the Sinhalese Mountain kingdom of Kandy in 1815, and became the first Europeans to control the entire island.

The colony gradually gained self-government during the 1900's. It became the independent nation of Ceylon on Feb. 4, 1948. The country adopted a parliamentary form of government headed by a Prime Minister. D. S. Senanayake became the first Prime Minister.

Srilankan flag talk about Sri Lankan culture; a yellow lion on a crimson field is a symbol of precolonial Sri Lanka. Ornaments in the corners are bo leaves, which are Buddhist symbols. On the left, a vertical green stripe stands for the Moors and an orange stripe for the Tamils.

The currency of Sri Lanka is Rupee (1US$ = 72).

Sri Lanka has a population of about 19 Million. The people belong to several different ethnic groups. The largest groups are the Sinhalese and the Tamils. The Sinhalese make up about 74 per cent of the population. They are descended from people from northern India. Their language is called Sinhala, and most of them are Buddhists. Tamils account for about 18 per cent of the population. They are descendants of people from southern India. The Tamils speak Tamil, and most of them are Hindus. Most of the Tamils live in the northern and eastern parts of the country. Both Sinhala and Tamil are official languages of Sri Lanka. Moors, who are descendants of Arabs, form Sri Lanka's third largest ethnic group. They make up about 7 per cent of the population. Most Moors speak Tamil and are Muslims. Smaller ethnic groups in Sri Lanka include Burghers, Malays, and Veddahs. The Burghers are descendants of European settlers who intermarried with Sri Lankans. The Malays are descended from people who came from what is now Malaysia. The Veddahs are descendants of Sri Lanka's first known residents.

About 80 per cent of the Sri Lankan people live in rural areas, and about 20 per cent live in urban areas. Most of the people farm the land and follow the traditions of their ancestors. Colombo is Sri Lanka's largest city by far. Houses that have mud walls and thatched roofs are common among the poorer rural people. The middle class and wealthy have more substantial housing. In both rural and urban areas, a walled compound surrounds many middle- and upper class houses. Many Sri Lankans, especially rural people, live in extended families, in which more than two generations of the same family live together. The caste system, which divides people into social classes, is strong among both Sinhalese and Tamils.

Most rural Sri Lankan men wear a sarong (a garment wrapped around the waist to form a long skirt) and a shirt. Many urban men wear Western-style clothing. Sri Lankan women wear a redde (skirt similar to a sarong), with a blouse or jacket; or a sari (straight piece of cloth draped around the body as a long dress).

Rice is the chief food in the Sri Lankan diet. It is served with curry dishes--stew like dishes of vegetables, meat, fish, or eggs seasoned with a blend of spices. Tea is a favourite drink.

Sri Lankans are religious people. The countryside is dotted with Buddhist and Hindu temples and shrines, Islamic mosques, and Christian churches. About 69 per cent of the people are Buddhists and about 15 per cent are Hindus. Christians and Muslims each account for about 8 per cent of the population.

Education in Sri Lanka is free from kindergarten through to university level. Children must attend school between the ages of 5 and 14. Sri Lanka has eight universities. About 87 per cent of all Sri Lankans 15 years of age or older can read and write. This rate ranks as one of the highest among Asian nations.

Architecture, painting and sculpture, literature, music, theatre, and dance flourished in Sri Lanka before the period of European rule. Much of the island's ancient art focused on religious themes, such as the many large Buddha images. Remains of this art can still be seen in ruins of some cities and in museums in Colombo and Kandy. Today, dance is an important art form among both Sinhalese and Tamils. Sri Lanka craft workers make jewellery and pottery, weave baskets and mats, and carve masks and other objects from wood.

Climatic condition in Sri Lanka, temperatures in the low coastal areas average 27 °C. Temperatures in the mountains average 16 °C. Average annual rainfall ranges from about 130 centimetres in the northeast to about 510 centimetres in parts of the southwest. Despite its relatively small size, Sri Lanka possesses a high level of biodiversity. A noteworthy feature of Sri Lanka's biodiversity is the remarkable high proportion of endemic species among its flora and fauna: 23% of the flowering plants and 16% of the mammals in the island are endemic. Sri Lanka has a wide range of topographic and climatic variation and this contributes to the special features of its biodiversity.

Sri Lanka has been identified by the environment activist group Conservation International (CI) as one of 25 biodiversity hot spots in the world The southern half of the island is dominated by beautiful and rugged hill country. The entire northern half comprises a large plain extending from the edge of the hill country to the Jaffna peninsula. The highest mountain is the 2524m Mt Pidurutalagala near Nuwara Eliya and the longest river is the Mahaweli which courses from the centre and empties into the Indian Ocean at Trincomalee. The best beaches are on the southwestern, southern and southeastern coasts. Large evergreen trees and spectacular orchids are found in the dense southwestern tropical rain forests. Hardy grasslands, rhododendrons and stunted forests predominate in the cool, damp highlands, and shrubs and grasslands survive in arid zones in the north. Animal life is profuse and includes the ubiquitous elephant, as well as leopards, deer, monkeys, sloth bears, wild boar, cobras, crocodiles, dugong and turtles. The island is an important seasonal home to migrating birds, including flamingos, which flock to the lagoons, wetlands and bird sanctuaries for respite from the northern winter. The best time to see birds is between January and April.

It is said By The Mahavamsa (The Great Chronicle of Sri Lanka) Historically the world's first sanctuary for wildlife was established in Sri Lanka Twenty-five centuries ago, Mahinda a Buddhist monk and son of Emperor Asoka of India told the King of Ceylon: "O Great King, the birds of the air and the beasts have an equal right to live and move about in any part of the island as thou. The land belongs to the people and all other beings; thou art only the guardian of it." Acting on these words, King Devanampiyatissa established the world's first wildlife sanctuary.


BACK IN INDIA

At 8.30 Indian Time, I reached the Chennai Airport. I got my rucksack and searched for Rtr. Hetal. I was worried that how will I recognize him because I met so many members in Agra who gave me their Visiting Cards. I really forgot his face. But suddenly, just after coming out of the main gate I saw two young boys came to me and even I guessed that one of them would be Hetal. Hetal recognized me and introduced to other Rotaract member, Rtr. Raj. Both of them came in a car. They asked me to come along with them. First they took me at Raj's house, where Raj and Hetal proudly introduced me to his family members. I had snacks at his house and moved to Rtr. Ritesh's place where many Rotaract members gather at night. After spending good time with 8-10 Rotaractors talking about experiences of the Expedition, Hetal took me to his house, Uncle, Aunty and his brother welcomed me. I stayed in Hetal's room it was 1 a.m. when I went to sleep.

Hetal had a computer at his house. I told him by the time he comes back from College, I would write a Press Note to give it to the Newspaper Offices. Aunty took lot of care. She provided breakfast and even forced me to put all the dirty clothes for washing. Hetal came back in the afternoon and we had lunch together. I was missing Indian food. After a long time, I got to eat good rotis (I had once in Sri Lanka but you won't get the test of India) In the evening we visited News Paper Office of Indian Express and Din Mini. (Local Tamil News Paper) The lady took my interview and Photo by the photographer. She told us, it would come on 27th or 28th. Later we visited Rotary Club of Maylapore where I got financial support. After the meeting, Hetal, Raj and myself went to Marina Beach and enjoyed the city. We didn't have dinner because we had snacks at many places and we were full. Late night we came back home.

The most obvious feature of Chennai is Marina beach. It runs from the harbour in the north to San Thome cathedral in the south. The beach stretches for about 13 kilometres, and is claimed to be the second-longest beach in the world. Elliot's beach is a continuation of Marina beach. It lies on the far side of the Adyar River, which flows through the southern half of the city. I packed my rucksack, as I would move out of Chennai the next day and slept at night at 12.30.

On 27th March, after thanking Hetal's family, I moved ahead early morning. Till 10.30 I was not feeling hot but later I experienced tremendous heat. The climate was very hot and not like Sri Lanka. In the afternoon due to tremendous heat blood came out from my nose. First time I had such problem. I took rest at a Dhaba (highway Hotel) had lunch and moved ahead, I was taking lot of precautions and washing my face with water at regular intervals. There were many villages on the way, but I decided to go to Nellore (166 Km). So I hitchhiked and at night at 9 O'clock I reached Nellore. I had address and phone number of Rtr. K Johnson. I called him but he was not there but still I told his brother that I am coming to his house. Rtr. Sujeet welcomed me outside of Rtr. Johnson's house. He told me he is a Rotary member, who arranged accommodation in a lodge. Rtr. Sujeet dropped me at the lodge and left. I had dinner in the hotel and slept at 12. I moved towards Vijaywada, which was just 30 Km from Guntur, after spending a night at Nellore.

I found in Andhra Pradesh very few people were of helping nature. On the way, I used to ask for the price for fruits, looking at my rucksack they used to coat more than what they coat for others. I had to buy whatever rate they coat cause when I demand for concession, they normally did not considered. People used to look at me with big eyes while walking but when the helping part comes sometimes they do not come forward to help. Vijaywada is situated at the bank of Krishna River. There is a long bridge of around a kilometre, which I had to cross before entering in to the city. Month of March means summer, but still the river was having enough of water. Many people sit on the bridge for fishing. There were lots of fishermen on the bridge. It was evening time and it was beautiful to see around the Vijaywada. Here Rtr. Arun Saboo (Reference- met me in Agra and gave his card) helped me.

The next stoppage was Eluru Rtr.. Arun gave me a letter to get help from a lady Rotary member (Rotary ann). It was my consecutive fourth day of walk. Eluru was just 60 Km and I was traveling in such a hot condition. Theressas College where Ms. Iris Sylwester (A Rotray Club Member) was lecturer, She spoke to the Vice Principal for my accommodation in the guesthouse and opportunity to speak with the girls, as there was a girls hostel in the same campus. The Vice Principal was very nice and kind. It was around 7 O'clock, I took bath and delivered the speech to around 100 girls students. But after the speech the Principal objected that how a young person can stay in the girls hostel. She refused my stay. Ms. Iris said not to worry and took me to Rotary Club meet. She introduced me to all the members, I got the opportunity to speak and at the end Rotary president said, that the club would sponsor the stay in Eluru. He arranged accommodation in a three-star hotel, Hotel Surya.

It was 31st March and I moved towards Rajmundry. (80-90 Km) On the way, few young men were standing near a tea stall. They stopped and enquired what I have and where am I going? I thought they are asking in good manner, but suddenly one man opened my west pouch and took out my camera. I requested them to leave me but the stupid man wasted 2-3 photos just by clicking. Others were laughing and at last I just requested the tea stall fellow to tell them to leave me. He was a young and healthy man and he knew all those men. He shouted and gave my camera back. He asked me if I would like to have tea. I thanked him, but denied and moved as soon as possible away from those bad people.

Before entering Rajmundry town you have to cross the River Godavari and the bridge, which was as long as 5 kilometre. You get to see the same scenario here too. Fishermen, poor people catch the fish for their day's food etc. In the evening I reached Rajmundry, luckily it was the meeting day of Rotary. One thing was good that since Vijaywada everyday wherever I have gone I got the Rotary Club Meetings to attained. The club helped me for the accommodation in a lodge. Rotarian V. S. S. Mallapa Raju was kind to help me here. I spent almost two hours at his house with his son Karthik, daughter Sravya, their cousins Vinay and Aparna. They all loved me so much and they got crazy when they came to know that I am walking. All were very sweet and loving children. I took photographs and even they took mine. Sravya was in 5th standard and she was very enthusiastic. She brought an Autograph Book and asked for autograph. I was really in love with all. Last night I had a very good sleep, but got ready to move the next destination, Tuni, a small town. It was around 80-90 Km. In India I did not find the fruit stalls after regular interval as in Sri Lanka. For kilometres you do not get anything on the highway. Even if you get to see any hotel, you won't get fruits there. It is very difficult to find a tree on the highway to take some rest. Today I got totally a different experience. I was seating under the tree because of hot condition, I was sweating and my T-shirt got wet. Two men came on the scooter, parked in front of me and went inside. There were lots of trees I thought they might have gone for toilet.

But after coming back one of them asked me how many boys are you? Arrogantly. I could see his eyes were in search of something. I replied coolly that I am alone. He did not believed at all and said where is your partner? When he was asking arrogantly, I asked him who are you and why should I answer your questions? When he found that I am not scared, he told me that he was a Police and in this area there are lots of prostitutes. I showed him my photographs and explained him about my expedition. He satisfied himself and left. After sometime a smart young girl of around 17-18 years of age approached to me and asked me to come. Now I believed on that Policeman, he was right. She was very good in Hindi. I spoke to her and told her how much she earns by doing prostitution and what will happen after few years once she becomes old. I told her about aids. She listens to me took out a condom and showed it to me, when I told about aids.

By showing that condom she again asked me to come and said 50 rupees only. I gave her 50 rupees told her it's bad don't do it better work and enjoy the life. I moved without getting into any trouble. I met many prostitutes on this highway. Mostly truck drivers are the customers of these prostitutes. Few places I have seen trucks are parked aside of the road, which means the driver was spending time with the Prostitutes. I was really serious that how these people do not think about aids. I faced tremendous heat everyday between 12 to 4 p.m. So somehow I hitchhiked and reached Tuni at 7 O'clock. When I reached in the market I Called up Rotarian D.V.B.S.R. Sarma (Ref- by Rotarian Raju from Rajmundri). First he took me in a hotel and offered me snacks. I showed him the letter and requested him for the accommodation. He was very excited and happy and praised me and my work. First his plan was to put me in a big and the best hotel in Tuni, but it was full. So he asked me if I have any problem staying with him at his house. I always preferred and enjoyed staying with the Rotarians at their house. I get love and affection from the family members, who encouraged me and gave me courage, to stay away from my own family without missing them much. Even I never wanted to waste much money of the Rotary Clubs or any member on accommodation. Because I always carry everything with me (my own bedding sleeping mat and shawl) and I never minded staying anywhere. Only problem I try to save myself away from mosquitoes.

After reaching at his house I took bath and washed few clothes. Every day I used to wash my walking dress at night, which used to dry up by morning. Rotarian Sarma was running a computer Institute, so after getting enough he took me to his Institute. I delivered message at the institute, there were few Rtr. members also present. I asked them to spread this message through schools in Tuni. I faced problem of itching many times during expedition. When I told him that I want to buy an itching cream, he advised me not to wear underpants because of sweating the itching problem arises. We came back at 9 O'clock and had home made dinner first time in Andhra Pradesh. Rotarian Sarma gave me two Bermuda shorts and asked me to wear these during walk. It was of cotton and was good for summer, as I faced lot of itching problem.

Rotarian Sarma was a nice and kind young man with two small loving kids I played with them for long time at night. His wife was again very excited and happy and she felt like doing more than what she could. All family members were in love with me. I spent some time watching Cricket where Pakistan beat India. I wore one of the shorts given by Rotarian Sarma. His family blessed me for my journey, as I moved after breakfast. His father said, "We are really happy to accommodate you in our house. We are fortunate and it was god's wish to take care of you. You slept without disturbing us (as I was having my own bedding and habituated to sleep on the floor) in all conditions with mosquitoes." Rotarian Sarma dropped me on the highway. I thanked him and started walk towards Vishakhapatnam (105 Km).

Today on the highway, I got a heartbreaking experience. There was an accident of truck and Bullock-Cart. (A small caravan carried by Bulls) The truck hit the Bullock-Cart, 2 people and 2 Bulls were injured. People were taken to the Hospital immediately, but the Bulls were lying on the road for last two days in the terrific heat. One was badly hitted, tears came out of my eyes when I saw that bull. I could see his pain he was crying, his three legs were completely damaged all blood was on the road. The bull was trying to get up many times but it was just impossible. He got hit on the other part of the body too. Moreover, you can imagine since last two days Oh!! My God ....... Yes since last two days that bull was lying in such condition in tremendous heat. No human would be ready to stay in such hot condition. You could see the people are heartless because they cared for human and sent them to the hospital, but what about the Bull who was suffering from extreme pain. I enquired with the people, why the bull has not taken to the hospital? They replied that doctor was informed two days before and he was expected the next day. They kept the bulls alive to show the bull's condition to the Policemen, so that they could get compensation against it. I told those people that when you know you would kill the bull so why should that bull suffer, why you didn't kill the bull the same day. I felt very bad even thinking that the bull would be suffering with the pain, may be for two more days. I prayed to relief the poor animal as soon as possible. It was very painful scene. I spent almost two hours and people were answering me because they respected me, when I show them my message card (Actually it was just a message card but there was picture of a rhinoceros and people cutting horn of rhinoceros. I told them that I am from WWF and would give this to News Paper. I took Photographs of that bull.) I was angry on the Police because if they had completed the procedure the bull would have been killed long back. People do not think about the animal that provides and helps them for their livelihood. I was helpless and could not do anything. I moved ahead with lots of sorrow. The whole day I could not eat anything as I saw the accident in the morning just 10 Km after Tuni. I hitchhiked at 4 O'clock and reached Gajuaka (Vishakhapatnam) I called up Rotarian Suresh Kumar (Ref- by Rotarian Sarma -Tuni) explained him and requested for the help. He asked me to visit nearest place at the shop of a Rotary Club member. (Gave me address) I visited the shop, where the Rotarian was already informed by Rotarian Suresh kumar. He asked his boy to drop me at the meeting venue, as there was meeting of their club. The meeting was going on I got warm welcome by all members. I got opportunity to speak in the meeting. It was pre decided that Rotarian Ch. Narayan Rao (Retd. I.A.F.) Would accommodate me at his residential school. After the meeting I went with him at his house cum residential school. He introduced me to his wife, son Ravi and a daughter. I took bath, had dinner and came to know more about the Residential School. The school runs by the Narayan Rao's family. Ravi was of my age and was helping his father for the school matter.

After long time today I would be taking rest and not going to walk. During assembly, I delivered the speech to the students of Surya Residential School. After the speech many students asked for autograph. I felt like a film star or like a sports person. All students surrounded me for the autograph. I played with the students, had lunch, which aunty prepared. She made special food for me. After lunch I packed my rucksack, as we wanted to go to Vishakhapatnam city (Gajuaka was part of Vishakhapatnam but 15 Km away) for the inauguration of Paul Harris Memorial Dormitory for the Blind for the girls. I said goodbye to all and moved with Uncle. District collector was there for the inauguration, I have been facilited by the Collector and delivered the message in 3-4 mints and it was short and sweet. There I got lots of claps and tremendous respect. After the function Rotary Club of Vishakapatnam accommodated me in YMCA's dormitory. It was dirty dormitory and not maintained properly. YMCA is situated exactly opposite to the sea. In the city I did not contacted any Rotary or Rotaract member because then nobody leaves me alone every time expedition talk. So I thought of spending remaining day just seating at the seashore and enjoying. I had dinner and slept early.

I left the city, but I could not decide where to go because Vijaynagaram (60 Km) was little inside around 10 Km away from Highway and srikakulam was on the highway, but 40 Km more. I moved out and reached on the national highway number 5 on which I was walking from Chennai. But once I reached on the highway I walked around 25 Km I was having snacks and fruits on the way. At 2.30 I met a person who asked me if I want to go to Vijaynagaram. He would drop me. I said ok and reached Vijaynagaram at 3 O'clock. I called up Rtr. V. Sai Anjani Kumar who was already informed by Rtr. Saboo of Vijaywada City. He came and took me to his house. His mother and father welcomed me. I got fresh and moved to the News Paper Office and Cable Television. Both places I gave an interview and it was successful visit. All these places I could not do much regarding schools because I was not able to take stoppage any where continuously walking since I left Chennai and moreover those days were of examination so it was difficult to get permission. At 7.30 I saw my news in the News Program in Telugu Language. Aunty prepared good food for me for the dinner I was highly respected because I was staying with them and whole Vijaynagaram saw me on TV.

The same news we saw in the morning. After breakfast Rtr. V. Sai dropped me on the highway. I moved towards Srikakulum (50 Km) I noticed many times that the animals like cows, bulls, buffalos, horses and many others used to look at me with the curiosity. I have really a different feeling for animal. I used to imagine various stories like animals wants to ask me why am I carrying so much of weight on my back? Some times I used to imagine that animals might be laughing at me and saying, "see how much pain one get when one carries weight on back." When animals look at my rucksack and me carefully and curiously I used to find kindness in their eyes. I used to talk with them and used to say hi!!!!! Hello!!!!!! How are you? Why are you looking at me? I asked many more questions and used to enjoy it a lot. I love animals a lot. But I used to laugh on my stupidity some times while talking my self and imaginating the stories with the animals. In the evening, I reached Srikakulum at 7 O'clock and called up Rotarian D. Gopal Rao (Ref- Rtr. V. Sai- Vijaynagaram) but he was in the shop, I took the shop address and reached at his shop at 8 O'clock. He was in the shop so I explained him and requested to help. He was not much impressed and he asked me to stay in Rotary eye hospital. It was a ten by ten room, but dirtiest. It was open, unsafe and unhygienic place, with full of mosquitoes. I thought, it would be better to stay in a hotel. I moved in search of cheap lodge, one rickshaw driver took me to a cheap lodge. I was happy just because I found mosquito net in the room. It was almost 12 O'clock of night.

Not having enough sleep, rest and also because of less salt or sodium in food I found myself a little weak. Next day, I had fruits and enough salt in lunch. I was walking towards a village called Tekkali (70 Km). I reached Tekkali in the evening at 5 O'clock with the help of hitchhiking. I got down where the truck was moving on the other direction. So the remaining distance of Just 2-3 Km. I saw few persons playing Volleyball in the school campus. I requested and joined them. I spent around 15 minutes play and enjoyed it a lot. After that they enquired about me. I told them what I do, they all shook my hand and wanted to spend sometime with me. But it was getting dark, so I moved. I called up Rotarian Prakash (Ref- Rotarian D. Gopal Rao) and requested to help me. He came at the booth and picked me. When he came to know that I was walking and that too for environment, he got excited and very happy. He took me to his house and proudly introduced me to his family even on the way he was introducing me to people, as it was a small village. All family members welcomed me. I did not eat much because Rotarian Prakash bought food from outside that I did not liked. I slept at 10.30 p.m.

Last night I got a very good and deep sleep. I thought of reducing some weight. I requested Rotarian Prakash to donate few clothes. Two shirts a pant and a bed sheet it was not useful for me. I reduced almost 2-3 kg weight and bought a lighter new bed sheet. Rotarian Prakash took me to Infant Jesus English Medium High School the only English Medium School in the village. It was Residential School. I delivered the speech to around 300 Students. Principal Mr. Issac N.V. was very impressed as it was related to environment. He showed me the garden and offered snacks and a glass of juice. I was in a hurry to go to Icchapuram (70 Km), so I requested Rotarian Prakash to drop me on the highway. I walked again on National Highway number -5. After spending almost ten days in hot climate, I got habituated. In the evening I reached at 8 O'clock in Icchapuram and visited directly at Rotarian M.N.Raman's (Ref- Rotarian Prakash) "Sri baba Printing Press" explained him and requested to help me. He accommodated me in a lodge after dinner. I slept at 10.30

I got a call in the lodge in the morning that Rotarian M. N. Raman has arranged speech in two schools. First we went to a Telugu Medium school, where I had to take the help of Interpreter because of language problem. Then we went to Dnyan Bharti English Medium School, I delivered message to around 300 school students. The school principal presented me a memento (Rotarian Raman sent to my home) I thanked all, carried my rucksack and moved. It was the last village of Andhra Pradesh and I was moving towards Barhampur (Orissa) that was just 24 Km by 5.30 I covered the distance and went to Geeta Silk Palace to visit Rotarian Chandra Mouli (Ref- Rotarian Raman- Icchapuram) I explained him and requested him to help me. He asked his servant to put me in a lodge. I took bath and came back at the shop. Rotarian Chandra asked me to go for the Rotaract meeting, but these Rotaractors were not much interested and helpful. When I told them about going to the newspaper and Cable television office nobody responded except Rtr. Vijay who told me that he would meet me the next day. I came back, had lunch and slept at 11.00 p.m. I watched Cricket Match India Vs Pakistan and today also Pakistan beat India. It was the second day after Chennai I got one day rest. Rtr. Vijay came and he was very much impressed. We went for breakfast. Suddenly blood started again to come out of my nose. He took me to a Doctor who was Rotary Club member. He prescribed some medicines and got tips for the precaution. He asked me not to walk in the afternoon, which was just impossible. I took rest whole day and went out for lunch in a hotel. I ordered for full meal, but I didn't know it would be too much for me. I eat how much I wanted and remaining I carried and fed to a cow out of the hotel, as they served in Banana Leaf. People were watching with the curiousity and few were laughing too but they might have felt sorry when they saw me feeding cow. In the evening I moved with Rtr. Vijay for the Rotary meet. He told me that Cable persons would be coming in the meeting for the interview and coverage. We went at the venue and all Rotarians welcomed me.

Cable TV persons took the interview where I delivered my message to the people of the city. I had dinner again in the same hotel but this time I asked for half plate. I enjoyed some time, watching Cricket Match played between India and England where India won by 20 Runs. Slept at 10.30 p.m.

Many times I was unhappy with people's behaviour. People do not give importance to time. Actually yesterday one school principal permitted for the speech and asked us (the Rotaract members and me) to come at 7.15 in the morning. I got ready before 7 and I knew how important to go in time. I thought of going alone but waited for these Rtr. because they helped me a lot and it would have hurt them. So I waited they all came at 7.15, hurriedly we moved by auto, but still we were late by 10 minutes, could not reach in time. Principal was time conscious he didn't allow us. I was really disappointed for missing the opportunity to make almost more than 1000 students aware about the environmental problems. I always believed that number of people I talk with, few turns out the conservationist. It affects on the students. After thanking those Rotaractors I moved towards Khurda (90 Km). On the way, I saw a person on bicycle. We both said hello to each other, as he was very fast we could not speak. Both of us were looking at each other even after passing almost half kilometre. I thought he might be on expedition. In the afternoon, blood came out of the nose again. I was not able to understand what or how could I avoid this problem. I took lot of precautions and used to take rest every half hour walk. I drank enough of drinking water, whole day. I hitch hiked in the evening and reached Khurda. I got help of Rotarian Dev to stay in the guesthouse of irrigation Dept. he was the chief of the irrigation Dept. of Khurda. At night two Rotaractors came to see me then I had dinner and slept. One of the Rotaractors gave me the name and phone number of Rtr. Sushri of Bhubaneshwar (25 Km). I started walk early morning and was walking fast, as I wanted to avoid afternoon walk.

I had breakfast on the way and without spending much time on rest I continued walk. But from 10 O'clock onwards I experienced increase in temperature. It was tremendous hot. I took out my handkerchief wetted it and put on the face covering almost half of the face. I was having a round cap that was protecting my head and the handkerchief protected nose. I had fruits on the way and reached Bhubaneshwar at a junction at 11.30. I called up Sushri. A Rotaract member of Khurda already informed her. Even she already made arrangement to pick me. She asked me to wait at the same place and she would send Rtr. Manik Sharma to pick me. Rtr. Manik Sharma reached at the place, where I was waiting for him. First he took me to his office where I changed my clothes and went for lunch. After lunch we went to the house of Rtr. Prem. He got surprised; he recognized me and said "Oh! My God, you are still walking?" He was in Agra for the meet the day I started my walk. He greeted me with lot of excitement and called few more Rotaractors, he introduced me proudly to his family members. Rtr. Vinod who was also there in Agra was shocked and praised a lot. He asked me to stay at his house. In the evening I attained their Club meeting and explained about the purpose of the expedition even I explained them that what and how they can help to save our mother earth. I had dinner at Vinod's house and slept at night at 12.

Next day I visited the News Paper Office of The Indian Express and The Asian Age. I got very good response by the Reporters of both the News Paper offices. We visited the OTV (Orissa Television) as one of the Rotary members already spoke to the reporters of OTV. We just confirmed that they would be coming at the Rotary Club meeting for interview. Rtr. Prem spent almost whole day with me. Rtr. Sharma wanted me to visit Rtr. Sushri even I was interested to see her, as she also helped me. She was staying far from the city, so nobody was ready to come with me but then Rtr. Sharma took me to her house. She, her sister and her mother welcomed me and I spent some time at her house and came back. At 7 O'clock, we went to Rotary Club and OTV reporters were there with the Camera. I delivered the regular speech for Rotary. The Club supported me financially and presented a nice banner, which was stating my message, as my previous banners were dirty. Later OTV reporters took my interview in other room. There were around 5-6 Rotaractors and we all had dinner in the hotel. I thanked all Rotaractors as I wanted to move the next day morning at the earliest towards Cuttuck. I carried my rucksack from Vinod's place and slept at Vivek's house.

Bhubaneswar lies about 320 kilometres southwest of Calcutta on a tributary of the Mahanadi River. It has been an important settlement since the 300's B.C., and has many archaeological remains of early settlers. Formerly called Ekamrakshetra, the town flourished especially between the A.D. 400's and 900's, when it became the political centre for many Hindu dynasties and a focus for the worship of the god Shiva. Many important temples were built there until the 1400's, and at one time there may have been as many as 7,000 shrines standing near the town's sacred lake. Remains of about 500 of these temples still survive. Lingaraja Temple in Bhubaneswar, built in the 1000's, is one of the finest in Orissa. The sikhara (spire) is 40 metres high. Today, Bhubaneswar consists of the original city with about 30 ancient temples, and a planned township built since 1948.

Rtr. Vivek dropped me on the highway and gave me Rtr. Manoj's phone number to get help as he would call and explain him about me. I started my walk at 6.30 and Kuttuck was just 22 Km from Bhubhneshwar. There were many turns on the highway and turns always reduced the distance. If there was right turn, I used to walk on the right side of the road and when left turn comes, I used to cross the road straight by looking at the vehicle and reach to the left turn. Thereby, I never walked the whole curved of right side. And the walk used to be fast. I reached Cuttuck at 11 O'clock covered the distance in just four and half an hours. I called up Rtr. Manoj and he got a shock. He was doubtful that how did I came so early. He picked me and first I requested to take me to the News Paper Office "The Samaj." I contacted Mrs. Manorama (I met them in Delhi at Satya Paul Uncle's place), as Brijbhai was not there. She asked one of the Reporters to interview and take photograph, as I walked in the office with my rucksack. So after interview and photographs I thanked Aunty and went to Rtr. Biswajit's house for lunch. I felt very awkward at his house. We had lunch but after lunch I came to know that I would be staying at his house, I requested Rtr. Avinash to take me to his house, as I was not at all comfortable. During lunch, I saw the way they used to give me food like people used to treat Harijan's in early period not only that time, but during expedition I saw still people are narrow minded and the cast problem continue. On my request Rtr. Avinash took me to his house. I wanted to buy a pair of shoe so we visited at one of the Rotary member's shop.

He asked us to come the next day in the morning. I went for the Rotary and Inner wheel meeting and got financial support from both the clubs. I had dinner at 10.00 and enjoyed Cricket Match. India won the match beating Pakistan after long time.

Next day at Cuttuck after breakfast and spending time with Avinsh's father, who was very interesting person, we went to Shoe Shop. I bought one campus shoe worth Rs 600, but Rotarian asked me to pay only Rs 300. Rtr. Manoj and Avinash were very much influenced and told me that they would like to do the same on Motorcycle. I wished them, both they dropped me on the highway and gifted me a goggle for the protection of eyes from such a hot climate. I was wanted to move as early as possible, but these Rotaractors were wanted me to spend time with them. At last I said goodbye to them and started walk. After lunch I took almost an hour rest because of heat. I wanted to reach Bhadrak (100 Km from Cuttuck) by evening I hitchhiked at around 6.30 and reached at 8 O'clock because of dark I called Rotarian Pramod Kumar Jera (Ref- Rtr. Avinash) explained him and requested for the help. He gave me his address and asked to come it was dark and no lights on highway as his shop was 3 Km. He accommodated me in a lodge and left. Not much interested in me. I had dinner and slept at 10.30 p.m.

From 15th April till 19th April I walked through Soro village with the help by Rotarian Ratnakar Rath and stayed in a Daak Bungalow. Balasore City helped by Rtr. Harsha Gupta and Anurag Jain stayed in "Rajasthan Bhavan."They even repaired my rucksack that was damaged and gifted me a T-shirt. Jaleshwar City helped by Rotarian B.M. Agarwal Stayed in a lodge

On 19th April I entered West Bengal through Midnapore. I found there were lots of trees on the highway. Lot of trees were planted and few cut by the villagers and few were still growing. I visited a place called "Bose Abasan Prakalp" to find Rtr. Chandn Bose (From the International Directory). His father was very impressed to see me doing something different. He asked me to stay in the guesthouse, which was dirty because of not using it for long time but still I cleaned it. I took bath and washed few clothes. Mr. Bose called a local News Paper Reporter. He took my interview. At night I had Begali home made dinner. I got a call from Rtr. Dipankar Jana. He came to know from Mr. Bose. He came to see me. Mr. Bose arranged the speech in D.A.V. School his friend Mr. Rana was member of WWF and got the permission for the talk. I packed my rucksack and slept at 11 O'clock.

The next day morning Rtr. Dipankar came picked me to the D.A.V. School. I carried my rucksack after thanking Mr. Bose. Mr. Rana welcomed me and delivered the speech. Everyone praised a lot and wished me for the journey. Before I moved ahead Dipankar showed me the oldest school built in 1835 where Khudiram Bose (Indian Sacrificed his life for the Freedom of India. He was hanged by the British) studied in the same School. I reached Hawrah (130 Km) and called Rtr. Somnath Maji but he was not at home his brother Rajesh was at home he gave me two members phone numbers and asked me to contact them. I tried but no one was at home and others I found helpless. So I decided to visit directly at Somnath's house. After reaching home I got warm welcome by his brother even though I did not informed before coming. I just had a talk with him about Somnath first time. I explained him and his mother about the expedition that time I noticed changed in them. They respected me a lot and asked me to stay in Somnath's room. I took bath and had dinner Somnath also came at that time. His brother explained him and then he recognized because he was present in Agra for "Rotasia Meet" He was stunt knowing that I covered Sri Lanka also. I had chat with him for long time and slept at 11 O'clock.

I was going to Calcutta. Before that Rtr. Somnath called up Rtr. Brothindro and informed him about me. Even he was aware about the expedition. After breakfast and thanking everyone, I moved to Calcutta that was just a few Km away. I walked through the famous Hawrah Bridge. Within an hour, I reached "Marble Palace" I got shock when I entered the palace. It was really a palace and I could not believe it I thought there might be a house and "Marble Palace" name has given to the house. At the entrance, there was a huge gate with a security guard. It was very big and precious. I guessed there might be history behind it. Brathindro was not yet ready, so I took a look and enquired the staff working in the Palace about the history of the palace. He told me that it's historical place in Calcutta. It was built in 1840. Construction started in 1835 and completed in 1840 by Brathindro's great-great Grandfather Raja Rajendro Mullick Bahadur. The whole Mullick family stays in the same palace. The Palace is open for all.

It has Art Gallery, Zoo and botanical garden. By the time I get all the information, Brathindro came and welcomed me. I told him my plan that was to visit Bangladesh High Commission. Actually according to my program I would go to Bangladesh after Bhutan. However, by the time rainy season starts and came to know from many people that Bangladesh suffers from the flood. It would be difficult for me to walk in those conditions so I thought of covering Bangladesh first and then Nepal. But the office was closed as we reached half an hour late at 1 p.m. where, as the timing was 9.15-12.30 Noons. Rtr. Sanjeeb came at the office of the High Commission and he dropped me at Rotarian Ranjeet Mullik's office that I met in Sri Lanka. He gave me Rotary Club's Meeting places and timings to get financial support. After that I visited WWF, where I got some posters and stickers. In the evening, Brathindro picked me from the place of Rotarian Mallik. We came back to Marble palace by Metro (Only place in India where underground local train runs.) I was supposed to stay with Rtr. Apratim Ghoshal. He came and picked me we went by taxi to his house. Everybody welcomed me and I slept after dinner.

In the morning after breakfast, I moved alone at the office of the Bangladesh High Commission. I filled up an application and waited in the queue. My number was very far and the officers were very slow. Before the office closes at 12.30, the officer took everybody's application forms and Passports. No one has received any receipt against the submission. The officer asked us to come on 26th. When I did not wanted to spend much time, conditions goes against me. I was not sure whether I would get visa or not. In the afternoon, I visited a school "Birla Boys School" and spoke to the concern teacher and requested for the speech. Her name was Mrs. D'souza. She asked me to come on Monday. I called up Bangladesh high commission and requested to give the Visa as early as possible but even he denied doing it before the given time. I attained the meeting of Rotary club of Central. After the meeting Rotarian Chittaranjan Chaudhary dropped me close to the bus station and I came back to Apratim's house by bus. Slept at 11.30 p.m.

Today I moved towards News Paper Offices. First I visited "The Telegraph" and "Anand Bazar Patrika", but the receptionist told me that the Reporters come in the evening. Then I visited "The Statesman" but the same reply from the receptionist. In the afternoon, I went to the Hotel Grand Oberoi, one of the Five Star Hotels in Calcutta. I contacted Rotarian S.S. Sinha (met in Sri Lanka). He welcomed me and proudly introduced me to many Rotarians. In the evening, I visited "The Statesman" and met a nice lady reporter who told me that she wanted to make a story so when I would be going to the Birla boys high school two girls would be contacting me. In the evening I visited Rotary Club of Bhavanipur Rotarian Ranjeet Mullik's club. Uncle asked me to come and stay with him for two days. I got disappointment from "The Telegraph" and "Anand Bazar Patrika" even after visiting at the given time. I came back to Apratim's house had dinner and slept at 11.

It was my third day in Calcutta and I shifted to Rotarian Ranjeet Mullick's house. He had a very big and precious Bungalow and a special guesthouse. It was like a hotel room and the room was air-conditioned with a colour TV inside, attached bathroom and toilet. On 25th April, Uncle told me that few Rotarians wants to see me and they would be coming at his house. He asked me not to go anywhere. After sometime Uncle told me there were two Rotary Members, who were very excited to meet and to see me. They praised a lot and one was Rotary ann Mrs. Ratna Ganguli and Mr. Rajesh Shah he was a Gujarathi old man invited me for lunch at his house. Mrs Ratna Ganguly told me that she was running a Shelter for animals. I wished her if I could get to see it and she replied that she would make arrangement for me. In the afternoon I had lunch at Mr. Shah's house and in the evening I went saw Victoria palace and Show in the Birla Planetarium. I came back had dinner and slept at 1.00 after watching a Hindi Movie "Kareeb."

I packed my rucksack and kept aside, as few guest of Uncle were suppose to come to stay. I went to Birla Boys High School and stopped at the meeting point. Pia and Rakshi (Sharanya), these two girls of around 18 years of age wrote many articles for "The Statesman". We met Mrs. D'souza who called me today for the talk turned me down in front of those girls. When principal did not allow me to talk she said, "Why you did not gave any written letter or application as I told you to give?" I was so angry on her that last time when I spoke to her, I specifically asked that would I need to talk to the principal and she denied. Piya and Rakshi saw my face and said do not worry we would visit Birla Girls High School because both studied and knew Principal very well. Both tried a lot and got the permission to talk with the 3rd and 4th standard students. It was better for me than nothing and moreover it would be very different experience to talk with so small students. I got tremendous happiness as the small students of less than 8 years of age responded spontaneously and promised to help in improving the prevailing conditions. After the speech, I thanked Pia and Rakshi. In the afternoon I went to Bangladesh Consulate and tried to get the Visa by many ways. At 7 O'clock, nobody called my name and I enquired again and saw that the application form was still in the first stage. I was very angry, but could not do anything.

The officer again asked me to come on 28th for the interview. Those stupid officers asked me to spend two more days. They do not understand anybody's problem and they do not care for others time. I was fade up, but kept cool and convinced my self that in expedition I would face such kind of problems. I came back at Uncle's house and explained him what happened. He called one of his friends who knew one of the Officers in the Consulate. Uncle explained him and requested him to speak to him and see what could happen. Rotarian Farooq Hamid spoke to the visa officer and told me to visit on 28th. I called up Mr. Debashish Chakravorthy (chief of Compassionate Crusaders Trust reference given by Rotarian ann Mrs. Ratna Ganguli) and requested him to arrange my visit to the Animal Shelter. He asked me to go to Tollygunj office at 11.30 and contact Mr. Amarnath Ghosh. I called up Rtr. Brathindro and told him that I would have to spend 2-3 days more and please search any other place for the accommodation, as Uncle's guesthouse was full. I slept at 10 p.m.

In the morning after breakfast, I thanked Uncle and Aunty they both blessed me. I went to Brathindro's house kept my rucksack and went to visit Animal Shelter. I contacted Mr. Amarnath Ghosh, who took me to Animal Shelter, which was around 25 Km from Calcutta. We moved in a van cum Ambulance that catches dogs. There were few dogs inside and because of heat they were barking a lot. Still at the Tollyganj Office we sprayed the water on the dog and tried to make them cool. When I reached there, I noticed the name that has given to the Shelter was "karuna Kunj" (Kind home) part of Compassionate Crusaders Trust associated with PFA (People for Animal an organization run by Maneka Gandhi) The trust has got everything free land, three Ambulance, an auto, Tube well, water tank and even the construction of the Shelter. There were around 6-8 workers who take care of the Shelter rather animals. There were around 35 Dogs and 75 Cats. The whole Shelter runs on Donations from Govt., Ngo's and many other resources. The work of the Shelter was to provide shelter for stray Dogs, Cats and other animals. The officers like Mr. Amarnath Ghosh visits any Housing Society explain the people of the society about their organization and work undertaken by them. They request the Housing society people that they would take stray dogs of their area provide food and shelter to them against which Housing society should bare the expenses per month. Sometimes even individuals come forward and sponsor for the animals of their own area. Mr. Ghosh told me that mostly kind hearted women call us. When I was there I saw a family came with their dog. The dog was dead and tears were in the eyes of the family members. In a corner of the Shelter there was a Marty yard the family buried the dog and donated some money for the Shelter. Mr. Ghosh told few people come sometime on Sundays with meat and feed the dogs. With the help of people and funding organization "Karuna Kunj" runs the show. I was highly impressed the way all worked to take care of animals.

I had lunch in the Shelter and played with friendly dogs. I took many photographs and came back in the evening. I went to Marble Palace and waited for Brathindro. We had dinner at his house and could see him only at 10 O'clock with another Rtr. Joy Biswas. Both Joy and me came to his house at Salt Lake. His mother and sister welcomed me it was almost 11 O'clock when I went to sleep.

Aunty served me breakfast with fruits. Then I moved alone to the Bangladesh Consulate. I enquired about the Visa Officer and told the receptionist that he has asked me to come. She told he hasn't come. Actually he was inside the office, but the stupid officer does not wanted me to go in. At last at 2 p.m, he called me and asked many questions. He told me to bring letter of any Rotary Club stating that the Rotary Club Sponsored the expedition. I visited Rotarian Ranjeet Mullick, got the letter and submitted to the Visa officer. But I could not understand why the stupid officer was delaying, even after completing all the formalities. Still he asked me to come on 30th because of the holiday on 29th as Bangladesh celebrates Buddha Poornima. India would celebrate the holiday the next day. I was frustrated and cursed on the officers for not understanding value of others time. I spent whole day in the office, but all in vain could not get Visa. I came back to Joy's house and spent time with his niece Ria, who was very sweet girl of around 5-6 years of age and brilliant. Today I spent some time chatting with Joy, as I was not able to explain and show photographs to him, aunty and his sister. I had dinner and slept at 11.

I spent many days in Calcutta running behind visa of Bangladesh. But then one day on 30th the stupid officer replied coolly that I would have to wait for few more days. I got damn angry and felt like killing all of them. I didn't show any respect, I asked for my passport and said I do not need a visa. I got the Passport and came out with the frustration.

In Calcutta I met a girl named Antara Ghosh, she was one of the nicest girls I ever met in my life and became best friend of mine. She took me around the places in Calcutta and helped me in knowing Calcutta.

Calcutta was the capital of India during the British occupation from the 1700's to the early 1900's. It is still important as India's chief port for trade with Southeast and East Asia. It is also the gateway to the most heavily populated part of northeastern India. The city has some of the most crowded living conditions in the world. The main city of Calcutta lies on the east bank of the Hooghly River, a branch of the Ganges (or Ganga) River. Calcutta is overcrowded; there is an acute housing shortage. A third of the city's population lives in slums, in areas known as bustees. The slum dwellings are constructed from scraps of metal or wood. Tens of thousands of people sleep in the streets because they have no shelter. Many of Calcutta's poor are married men who left their families in poor villages in West Bengal, Bihar and Orissa and migrated to the city to find employment. Many of them remain unemployed once they arrive. Much of the city still has no proper sewerage system. Many of the poor people who live in Calcutta risk disease by washing in and drinking unfiltered water supplied for street cleaning. Calcutta also has some extremely rich people. Wealthy citizens live near the centre of Calcutta in pleasant neighbourhoods with wide streets and modern houses. The finest residential area is just east of the Maidan. This part of Calcutta includes exclusive clubs, two golf courses, two racecourses, a stadium, and one of the oldest cricket grounds in the world.

Calcutta has produced many poets, writers, and artists. The local people say that every third person is a poet. Calcutta was the home of Rabindranath Tagore, the first Asian writer to win the Nobel Prize for literature. The talented film director, Satyajit Ray, was born in Calcutta. The city has film studios at Tollygunge and has one of the oldest symphony orchestras in Asia. After moving out of Calcutta I walked through Bandel a town, Burdwan where Rtr. Prem Agarwal helped me and we could visit St. Xavier's School and before entering Bihar, Bolpur (Shantiniketan). It was not a city but a famous town the birthplace of two Noble Prize Winners, Ravindra Nath Tagore (Who wrote National Anthem of India) and other one was Dr. Amartya Sen (Noble Prize winner for the year 1999 for Economics)

I did not walk through Bihar (Because the dangerous conditions in Bihar. I read once that there was an incident, two foreigners were on expedition and at a place the female was raped where as the male got killed for money. So I did not wanted to take risk) and moved to Raxaul (India-Nepal Border) by train. It was first time that I used train to travel.


Nepal


Entry

It was 7th May when I reached the border. I Crossed the India-Nepal Border in the evening and entered the third (3rd) country of the expedition. At the check post, Police checked my rucksack and Passport. The post was called Birganj in Nepal. It was one of the busiest posts. I saw many trucks waiting aside of the road to cross the border. Few people were crossing the border without any check up or anything as if there is no check post. Birganj town was around 7 Km from the border so I walked the distance. I searched for Rotary member, but I could not find anyone. One person suggested me to go to Hotel Heera Plaza. Even on the way I met a Rotarian Omprakash. He asked me to meet in the Hotel Heera Plaza, as they were having meeting at 7.30 pm on the same day. One of the school Principal arranged accommodation in the hostel. The caretaker was not aware about me or my expedition, he did not wanted to brief about the services available, he simply opened a room for me and left. On the second day I slept well whole day due to last 2 days traveling I didn't get good sleep at night. I got up when the caretaker sent his son to call me. He came to know about the expedition from Rotarians and felt sorry, for his yesterday’s behaviour. I got high respect then he introduced me to his son Nirmal, daughter Alka and his wife. They invited me for dinner. Nirmal and I were talking on the tares, suddenly atmosphere changed, terrific wind flowed with high speed and rain started with lightening and then power cut off. We had candlelight dinner. Nirmal was very much motivated and excited about my expedition he spent lot of time with me chatting about expedition.


Hetauda Town

On the 3rd day, I started the first walk in Nepal; I packed the rucksack and moved with Nirmal. He took me to his sister's school where I delivered the speech first to 8th and 9th Class and then to 6th and 7th Class students. I spent almost an hour in the School and Nirmal dropped me on the highway. I didn't find much difference between Indians and Nepalese except language. I reached a town called HETAUDA and stayed in the hotel. People used to look at me with the curiosity.

Next day morning from the hotel staff I came to know about the English School. I went to visit the school but came to know that the school starts at 9.00 O’clock. I was there two hours before the time so I decided to come back again at 9.00 O’clock. On the way back to the hotel I met a nice person Mr. Arun, he knew Hindi very well. He understood that I am not from Nepal so he asked me what I do. I told him about the expedition so he took me to the nearest school Ujjawal Boarding School. It was an English Medium School. I got the permission and had nice interactive session with around 100 students. I Gave Poster and sticker to the school and thanked the young man, Mr. Arun, for helping me to spread the message of eco protection.


Kathmandu

On the same day I moved ahead towards Kathmandu which was around 90 km and the road was through mountains. I walked until 2.00 O’clock and then hitchhiked to reach Kathmandu in the evening. After reaching here, I contacted the Rotaract club members they helped me find a cheap accommodation. The place was famous and known for foreigners. I saw many foreigners roaming, there were shops mainly selling handicraft items. It was night time and most of the shops were getting closed. I could not spend much time looking around. I had dinner came back to the hotel and slept.

Kathmandu was cold even in the month of May. It was partially cloudy too. Early morning I went to Bangladesh High Commission and asked, the lady sitting at the counter, what all I would need for the Visa after explaining her about the expedition. She told me to get photocopies of News Paper cuttings and many other documents with the recommendation letter from Indian Embassy in Nepal. The girl was nice she helped and respected me a lot. Then I went to the office of the Indian Embassy. Requested for the recommendation letter and told them what happened in Calcutta the trouble story of Bangladesh Consulate. I got the recommendation letter to get the Bangladesh Visa in the evening at 4 O'clock. The officers treated me very nicely and praised a lot. I could not submit the application form on that day.


Kathmandu in short

I spend time knowing Kathmandu. Kathmandu also spelled Katmandu, or Kantipur, capital, Nepal, near the confluence of the Baghmati and Vishnumati rivers, at an elevation of 4,344 feet (1,324 m) above sea level. It was founded in 723 by Raja Gunakamadeva. Its early name was Manju-Patan; the present name refers to a wooden temple (kath, "wood"; mandir, "temple," or "edifice") said to have been built from the wood of a single tree by Raja Lachmina Singh in 1596. A building, supposedly the original, still stands in the central square and is used for the accommodation of sadhus (holy men). The first known settlers were the Newars. In 1768, the nearby kingdom of Gorkha conquered Kathmandu and united the region that became the modern kingdom of Nepal. Today, members of several ethnic groups live in Kathmandu. Most of the city's people are Hindus, but many are Buddhists.

Kathmandu has served as the seat of the ruling Shah family of the Gurkha people since 1768.The city has become the country's most important business and commercial centre through the efforts of its Newar merchant families. In the 1970s the construction of new roads and the expansion of air service were centred upon Kathmandu, making it the hub of the national transportation system, which for centuries was limited to footpaths. Many of the townspeople are engaged in agriculture, the Newar preferring to live in the city. Tribhuvan University was chartered in 1959.

Kathmandu's two main streets contrast strongly to the older sectors of narrow streets and brick houses adorned with carved doors and windows. Destruction during the 1934 earthquake resulted in the construction of many modern-style buildings. The city's most notable building is the old palace of the Malla kings, which includes Taleju temple (1549), built by Raja Mahindra Malla. The palace's main gate is guarded by a figure of the god Hanuman; in a small, adjoining square are several pagoda-style temples.

To the east is Tundi Khel, the parade ground, in the centre of which is a stone platform surrounding a tree, from which important government pronouncements were formerly made first to the army. Between it and the city is a tall watchtower built by Bhim Sen Thapa, a former Prime Minister. On the outskirts of Kathmandu are many palaces built by the Rana family, the most imposing of which is the Singha Palace, once the official residence of the hereditary prime ministers and now housing the Government Secretariat. About 3 miles (5 km) northeast is the great white dome of Bodhnath, a Buddhist shrine revered by Tibetan Buddhists.

Population of Kathmandu is around 500,000, it is the largest city of Nepal. The city is known for its many graceful Hindu and Buddhist temples. Kathmandu's main industry is tourism. Light industry in the city includes brick, carpet, and concrete manufacturing; and woodworking and metalworking.


Game with Bangladesh Consulate

Here I played a game with the Bangladesh Consulate. I understood that if I show in my expedition program which conveys that I would be going to Burma (Myanmar) after Bangladesh, then I would have got in to trouble once again. I made a special program to submit to the Bangladesh High Commission in, which I showed that I would be coming in India in Agartala. But I would be walking according to my expedition program. So early morning I moved to visit first to Bangladesh High Commission submitted all the documents with the application form. The girl was very nice she explained everything about my expedition to the Embassy. I submitted even the recommendation letter of Indian Embassy. She asked me to come in the evening at 4 O'clock. When I went at 4 O ‘Clock, I was dancing after getting the visa. It was the happiest moment because I knew, once I entered Bangladesh I would be coming to India only after the end of Expedition.


Rotary Support

In the evening I visited Rotary Club of Kathmandu and got support of Rs. 3000 (Nepali Currency) the money was enough for me to cover Nepal. I paid the hotel bill at night, which was very expensive for me.


Leaving Katmandu

I moved early morning towards Dhulikhel (33 Km) I had heavy breakfast while walking. I purchased one cloth mask looking at the pollution in town. I tried to find hotel where I could get Roti's but no, everywhere rice, rice and rice only. I was climbing up and walking high and high as usual people used to look at me with the curiosity. I reached Dhulikhel in the evening at 4 O'clock with very comfortable walk. At the entrance I saw a board of Rotary Club. I got happy because I was not aware about the presence of Rotary at this hill station. I enquired with the people they guided me to a school and told that the School Head Master was the Rotary member. His name was Mr. Bed, he was no more in the Rotary but still he helped me a lot when I met and explained. He took me to Mr. Bel Prasad Sreshtha who was the Mayor of Dhulikhel and running the best of best hotel "Himalaya Horizone". He welcomed me and asked what need brought me to the Rotary. I explained him and requested to help for accommodation. He was so kind and nice he asked one of his servants to open a Double Bedroom (the hotel was for couples only there were no single rooms available) for me. He also told me to have food in his hotel itself. I thanked him and moved with the servant, the room was ready. It was such a nice room I never stayed anywhere so far. I enquired about the charges just for the sake of curiosity, the servant told me 1000 Rupees (Nepali Currency). The room was superb actually for couple for honeymoon the room was “the best”. I took bath and went the other side of the hotel. Oh!!!!!!! God it was amazing, amazing beauty of nature. I saw golden color around the mountains and sun disappearing slowly-slowly. I would have written a poem if I was a poet. I would have got to see the Everest clearly but because of clouds I could see only little part of it and Himalayan range. It was the best spot and one would really enjoy and love the place. It was peaceful and I thanked God for making my life joyful with thousands of colors that I get to see. I was alone sitting in such a romantic atmosphere and missing some one. The place was really great for the couples to spend nights. I saw few photographs displayed in the hotel, I saw the beauty of this place in winter (December or January) it looks more beautiful than summer, beautiful flowers and snow. At night I had dinner with Mr. and Mrs. Sreshtha (the owner) as their Bungalow was besides the hotel.


Mount Everest

This was 8th day in Nepal, Early morning I had breakfast and came to the same point where I spent my whole evening yesterday. I got to see the Great Everest Mountain clearly it was great and unbelievable there was no end to my joy. It was full white, the whitest white and some part was with the golden shining because of sunrays. The servants were very happy looking at me and asked me to come again in winter season. I felt like I have achieved some thing great in my life. It was the greatest moment in my life.

Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world. It rises about 9 kilometres above sea level. Everest is one of the mountains that make up the Himalaya, on the frontiers of Tibet and Nepal, north of India. Surveyors disagree on the exact height of Mount Everest. A British government survey in the middle 1800's set the height at 8,840 metres. The 1954 Indian government survey set the present (1999) official height at 8,848 metres. But a widely used unofficial figure is 8,882 metres. Mount Everest was named after Sir George Everest (1790-1866), a British surveyor general of India. Tibetans call Mount Everest Chomolungma. Nepalese call the mountain Sagarmatha. Mount Everest is, geologically, a relatively young mountain, formed from folded limestone rock that is still being forced slowly upward by the movement of land masses below it. Ice sheets cover the sides of the mountain, although the summit, peaks, and ridges are kept clear by strong winds. Conditions are too inhospitable to support much plant or animal life. Many climbers have tried to scale Mount Everest since the British first saw it in the 1850's. Avalanches, crevasses, and strong winds have combined with extreme steepness and thin air to make the climb difficult. The first attempts began in the 1920's. There were ten expeditions, mainly by British and Swiss mountaineers with the assistance of Sherpas as guides and porters, between 1921 and 1952. Some attempts came close to success, but conditions defeated the climbers. The eventual conquests of the peak came partly as a result of increased knowledge and of improved equipment, which had been developed during this period. This included insulated footwear and clothing, portable oxygen cylinders, and lightweight radio equipment. On May 29, 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay, a Nepalese Sherpa tribesman, became the first men to reach the top. They were members of a British expedition led by Sir John Hunt. It left Kathmandu, Nepal, on March 10, 1953, and approached the mountain from its south side--which had been called unclimbable. As the climbers advanced up the slopes, they set up a series of camps, each with fewer members. The last camp, one small tent at 8,504 metres, was established by Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, who reached the summit alone. On May 16, 1975, Junko Tabei of Japan became the first woman to reach the top of Mount Everest. Himalaya, also called Himalayas, is the highest mountain system in the world. The name Himalaya comes from the Sanskrit language and means the House of Snow, or the Snowy Range. The Himalaya consists of several parallel mountain ranges. The mountains extend in a 2,410-kilometre curve across southern Asia from the Pamirs, west of the great bend of the Indus River, eastward to the great bend of the Brahmaputra River. They form a barrier that separates northern India from the plateau of Tibet, in China. Parts of the Himalayan system are as much as 320 kilometres wide. The Himalaya joins with other mountain ranges of Asia that stretch east and west. The Karakoram mountain system, which includes the Karakoram, or Mustagh, Range and three lesser ranges, is the northwestern extension of the Himalaya.

The Himalaya rises in steps from the plains of northern India, which have an elevation of about 300 metres above sea level. The Mount Everest, whose official height is 8,848 metres, lies between Tibet and Nepal. It is the highest mountain in the world. K2 (8,611 metres), in the Karakoram Range in northern Kashmir, is the world's second highest mountain. K2 is also called Mount Godwin Austen, or Dapsang. One of the most famous peaks in the Himalaya is Mount Kailas (6,714 metres), which lies in Tibet. The Tibetans call it Kang Rimpoche (the Mountain of Precious Snow). This mountain is holy to the Hindus and Buddhists and is said to contain the thrones of their gods. Pilgrims from all parts of central Asia and India climb the mountain. They usually climb on foot, and the journey takes them from tropical jungles to freezing heights. Lying below the peak is the Holy Lake Manasarowar, where the pilgrims worship.

Kanchenjunga, or Kinchinjunga (8,598 metres), the third highest mountain in the world, lies near Mount Everest, between Nepal and the Indian state of Sikkim. Other high peaks are Makalu I (8,481 metres); Makalu II (7,660 metres); Dhaulagiri (8,172 metres); Nanga Parbat (8,126 metres); and Mount Kamet (7,756 metres).

The passes that run through the Himalaya are among the highest in the world. Few of the passes are lower than 4,600 metres above sea level. Most are covered with snow from November to May and are then impossible to cross. Many glaciers form in the high passes. Almost every kind of climate can be found in the Himalaya because of the many different altitudes. This makes possible a variety of plant lives. On the steep southern slopes grow tropical plants, such as fig and palm trees. These plants are found up to a height of 910 metres. Oak, chestnut, and laurel trees are common up to 2,100 metres. Deodar and pine trees begin to appear at 3,660 metres. Many shrubs and climbing plants are found in the forests. Rhododendrons grow on the mountain slopes. The tea plant is cultivated up to 1,500 metres. On the southern slopes, rice, maize, and millet are grown up to 1,800 metres. Wheat and barley are grown in slightly higher regions.


Crossing the hills

I thought of spending some more time and enjoy little more the Everest but then I realized that the expedition must go on so I moved ahead after thanking all the hotel staff. I could walk hardly a Km and the real expedition started through mountains. Because the highway was for different route and I chose to walk on the Eastern route through mountains. If I had continue walking on the highway, it would take at least 15 days for me to reach the eastern part where as the short cut would take me only five days. I would be walking through mountains and later again I would reach the highway. No doubt it was risky but I was prepared for anything, after all I wanted some adventure in my expedition, risk is another name of adventure. I left everything on God and moved on. Before choosing the route I got lot of information from Katmandu itself. People told me there would be villages and I would get people walk from one village to other, as there was no road at all. You cannot drive even a bicycle. Have to go on foot wherever you want. So far I have traveled everywhere on the highways but now I would be enjoying the difference. And the journey started. I started climbing up I got few villagers who understand little Hindi language there is not much difference in Nepali and Hindi. Even I used to understand their language (a little). But mostly I met people who knew Hindi because many Nepali's have stayed in India at least for one or two years. I would ask them about the route and how it would be, difficult or easy. Some times I would get some people walking on the way. they used to guide me very well. Whenever I reached on the top of any hill, I could see the valley and villages. While walking most of the times I used to get a companion for few km. First day I thought of covering around 20-25 Km by evening as it was hilly region, lots of ups and downs, carrying approx 20 kg wait on the back was little difficult.


Kattunje village

I came to know that Kattunje is the village 30 Km from Dhulikhel, where I would get the Police Station & seek their help. So I decided to walk little faster. At a small village where there was a small stall I had lunch. The villages were of 5-6 houses that to scattered, one on the top of the hill and other at the bottom. It was not much difficult to pass through without anybodies guidance. The journey was good except little trekking. I was enjoying beauty of nature at the same time villagers used to look at me but on those faces I have not seen the curiosity. They might have seen many trekkers, while trekking on this side. Few people used to ask me something in Nepali, which I could not understand then I used to ask them, “Hindi aata hai?” (Do you know Hindi?) I really enjoyed the walk. At last I reached Kattunje at 6.30 p.m. when it was almost dark, if few villagers would not have helped me accompanying as they were of the same village, it would be difficult for me in searching the route in darkness. Here whether conditions were encouraging for walk. Kattunje village was much better than all the villages that I crossed. I visited Police Station, it was very small station, a village level. Before Police enquires me, I explained (lied) to them that, “I am doing a project on India and Nepal on its people, culture and environment. I visit schools and make students aware about the environmental problems. I would be traveling by walk up to Darjeeling and would go back to my home town.” I requested them to help me for the night stay. I showed them my photographs. They checked my rucksack and asked me to stay in a guest house run by a family. It was a big hall with 4 – 5 beds, a kind of dormitory. 3-4 people were already staying there. I was little worried about my rucksack. It was the worst place that I ever stayed in, what else one can expect in the small village. I was happy at least I got a place to stay. But the charges were Rs.40 without toilet or bathroom. In the evening I spent some time with the villagers, everyone was showering love on me. I had noodles and rice for the dinner & slept well.


Loomughat

It was 15th May, cold but pleasant morning. I had to go early morning in the forest for latrine, it was very cold so there was no question of bath. I had heavy breakfast got the information from one of the Policemen & moved ahead towards Loomughat, a village around 25 Km but this was dangerous, deadly, terrific and toughest walk ever. When I left Dhulikhel, till Kattunje I used to get many people because it was close to Dhulikhel (near to the highway). But later I faced lots of problems, up to Mangaltar village I used to get companion while walking. When I reached this village it was the afternoon, 12.30. The companion stayed back as he was from Mangaltar village. There was a Police Station I spent some time enquiring about the distance and time would take to reach Loomughat. Then I went to a hotel cum house and had lunch. The lady was very pretty and she knew Hindi, I got more information from her. She asked me, why am I walking? For the people whom I meet and some times ask for the route direction while walking, I had a different story for those people, "Mera saathi choot gaya hai aur ab mujhe Loomughat or (whichever police Station I would go I take that name) Police Station jaana hai". "I lost my friends/group & now I want to reach the xyz Police Station. So people used to think that I was on the trek and lost the way so he is going to the Police Station for help. With this I used to save my self from any kind of trouble without talking and showing much of the expedition or the First story part. The kind and pretty lady asked me to stay for the night in her hotel cum house in Mangaltar and move the next day with her brother as he would go to Loomughat, the next day. I thanked her, denied her offer and moved ahead. On this route I found many village girls, they used to look at my sack & me with the curiosity. When I look at them and smile then they also reciprocates, it used to ease their tension or fear and sometimes few used to talk friendly. I had lot of problems searching the right ways after I crossed Mangaltar because later I had to walk through the river (Dry). I crossed the river but I got stuck, I could not see even a person who would help me to show the way. I was walking through the river and there was no sign of path. At last I got a footpath and I walked on the same. After half an hour walk when I was climbing a hill I got a girl and an old lady, the girl scared very much and ran away from me. I just shouted Loomughat- Loomughat then she and the old lady stopped and turned back she could understand little Hindi. She helped me a lot she told me that I am on the wrong path. She asked me to walk with them I walked back again with a very less talk with the girl and the old lady because of language barrier. It took more than half an hour to reach at the basin of the river, at the same place where I was before entering the wrong path. She showed me the path to Loomughat. I thanked her and moved on the right path.


A Funny Man

In the afternoon I took bath at a place in the river where the water flow was more. I enjoyed the river bath. It was first time in the expedition that I stopped while walking and took bath in the river. I got a funny experience on the site. A man was crossing the river; I thought to take a photograph of such a different experience. I took out the camera and requested him to take the photograph during bath. He didn't know Hindi but I thought I made him convince by showing how picture should be taken, all through body language, it was Kodak Camera functioning was smooth & easy but I saw that he did not hold the camera properly. I could understand that it was his first time in life to handle the camera. I went to him explained and showed him again, “how to click?” Finally with the confidence he asked me to go. I sat down on the rock in the water and asked him to click. What he did? He turned (moved the direction, where I asked him to stand and click) to his right and clicked. I was laughing at him and thought he didn't understand so again I explained him and told not to move any side, just stand up as it is & press the button. I showed him with action but the second time also he did the same way; he turned to his right and clicked. I could not stop laughing with his similar action, I thanked him for his efforts and I wasn’t interested in wasting more photos on practical.

The route was all along with the river, few times I had to come down and walk through the river. It was easy to climb up but very difficult to get down because of the slope and slipperiness. It was very dangerous and lonely walk I ever did, I used to call my mother for help and I feel she saved me many a times in those six hours walk. Many places it was like if I slip then directly in the water and there were many stones in the river mainly at the corner or at a side. I would not have faced much problem but because of rucksack I used to get in trouble. All the time after lot of precaution and care I overcome the dangerous situation. I got scared at some places where anyone would have killed me and no one would know about me and my expedition but nothing happened. At last with the horrible walk I reached Loomughat at 6 in the evening. The village was even smaller than Kattunje (previous) I saw hardly twenty houses and few scattered on the hills. I noticed that there is one more obstacle to be crossed before I reach in to the village. The village was other side of the river. There was a swinging bridge like a Burma bridge that we played (crossed) in our schools, many times when I was studying in standard 8th. It was long time since then I never played on this type of bridge. I saw few villagers watching me with the curiosity and were suggesting me lot when they saw fear on my face. It was really dangerous bridge more over wind flow was heavy; it was swinging a lot as I tried to walk on it. I was really tired facing troubles. It was another challenge God wanted me to cross the bridge, which needs lots of courage that I exhausted on the way. Oh!!!!!! I was really very scared, by now many villagers were gathered to look at my exercise. One of the Policemen also came towards me and encouraged me to cross. Anyhow I crossed it and reached other side safely. But what happiness and satisfaction I got after crossing so many hurdles was unexplainable in words that one has to feel. In this village the Police Station was just the adjacent building and most of the policemen were watching the show. As soon as I reached the other side, one of the Policemen who encouraged, asked me the same question, I explain (the same story that I tell always to the Police Stations - “I am doing a project on India and Nepal….”) and stayed with them in small broken building.


Yeti or Abominable Snowman

The policemen were all young of my age. Here I enjoyed good time with the young Policemen and few villagers chatting with them after I had dinner with the Policemen. They told me a story about Yeti or Abominable Snowman, is a creature said to live on Mount Everest and other mountains of the Himalaya range of Asia. Reports of such a creature have also come from remote parts of China, Siberia, and other parts of Asia. According to legend, the Abominable Snowman is a hairy beast with a large, apelike body and a face that resembles that of a human being. It has long arms that reach to its knees, and it walks erect on its thick legs. Legend says that the Abominable Snowman sometimes comes down from the mountains to attack villagers. The name Abominable Snowman may have come from a newspaperman's translation of metoh kangmi, a Tibetan name for the creature. The name Yeti was given to it by the Sherpa people of Nepal. The word probably meant all-devouring creature, and it may refer to a mountain demon rather than a real creature. There is no direct evidence that the Yeti exists. Local tribes and Western travelers have reported seeing it, but their stories cannot be verified.

I had nice time with them but it was very panic day for me and even my whole body was paining. I had a painkiller tablet and slept at 8.30 p.m.


Choprang

This was my 10th day and since last three day's I didn't get rest so I thought of walking the nearest village, I came to know about the next nearest Police Station. I had very heavy breakfast, thanked all the policemen and moved towards Choprang, which was the nearest one. Policemen told me, it would take me max-to-max six hours to reach Choprang. But it took Ten hours to reach. On this path too I missed the route and walked through more dangerous and deadliest places than yesterday. I was walking again along side the river. I was more scared then yesterday. It was very bad situation, many times I had to wait for some one to come and help finding the path. Once because of language problem I couldn't get the person clearly where he was directing me and missed the way. It was the repetition of yesterday's walk. I climbed up and up on the mountain. First time I got hurt during climbing a mountain. A weaken portion of rock came in my hand as a result I lost the grip and collapsed down with the whole weaken portion falling on my body. I was on the hill more than 20 feet high, there were plane portions in between, the paths that people used for walk. I was very lucky, I climbed only 10 feet from the patch of plane portion on the mountain and it was inclined so I stick to the mountain like the lizard does and came down. I got many scratches on my hands, stomach and legs. I would have crossed it easily but always got the problem with the rucksack. I sat down there itself took out the first aid box and used the medicines first time in expedition during walk. It was thrilling experience. I was very much alone and scared at few dangerous places. More over the path was not clear means problems for searching the right path. Some times I thought I should catch highway and walk on the highways. But even for highway I had to wait for at least 3-4 days. I got one small village en route where I had lunch but did not find fruits. At last I reached Choprang at 6 O'clock. In the Police Station, the Police officer was not at all good, first he denied providing any support but later he agreed after many requests. I stayed in the same building with the Policemen. This was much bigger village than all previous villages. It was beautiful and on the height. But in All those villages I didn't get light. So everywhere I was sleeping at 8 or 8.30 p.m. and having rice, rice and rice only.


Suffering

It took me four more days to reach on the highway. All those four days I had similar kind of problem. First I stayed in Monthali and took one day rest. It was very hectic walking every day with many problems. On the 12th day I was happy as few policemen would walk to Sindhuli village and there was no problem for missing the route. I spent a night in Sindhuli.

I met many people carrying the goods at their back even the small children's, as there were no roads. The shopkeeper or people have to carry the goods either with the help of helper who take money for carrying the goods. I saw small boys and girls carry weight of more than 30 kg and elders or youngsters carry more than 50 kg or some carry even 100 kg too. I saw their style of carrying goods was different and so it was possible for them to carry so much weight from one village to other. I found those people kind and very hard working. If anyone get to see such scene, small boys & girls carrying 20-30 kg & elderly men & women carrying 50-100 kg weight on their back, their heart will cry. So much pain, every after few steps they used to stop, what more I can say for those poor people. It was really painful for me. Even many places I found women's and girls work in the farms or go to the forest for collecting wood for cooking and men, mostly young, play cards or carom. Not only that they bet on each game and play on money. The girl's and women's work hard, takes care of kids, earns, cook's and does everything but still man does not care her and he drinks, he smokes, he plays, he spends on bet and sometimes even he beat's the women. Means women's are born for suffering, is it so?

Nepal has a population of about 24 Million and an area of 140,797 square kilometres. About 45 per cent of Nepal's people live in the Tarai. The rest of the people live in the hills and valleys region or in the mountains. Patches of farmland lie among the mountains of Nepal. These cultivated areas account for only about 10 per cent of the country's mountainous area, but almost all of the mountain people live there. Nepal is poor and undeveloped and has a high rate of disease. Nepal has few doctors, and such diseases as cholera, leprosy, and tuberculosis occur frequently. Since the 1950's, the government has greatly reduced malaria. This has enabled people from the mountains to settle in the Tarai, where malaria used to be widespread.

Most Nepalese are closely related to the peoples of northern India. Other Nepalese are of Tibetan descent. Still others are of mixed Indian-Tibetan descent. Most people live in small villages in two-storey houses made of stone or mud brick. About 90 per cent of Nepal's people work on the land. Most farms produce barely enough to support one family. Nepalese farmers trade any surplus crops they grow for such important items as paraffin and salt. Other Nepalese make their living as craft workers, such as blacksmiths, goldsmiths, shoemakers, and tailors. Still others work as merchants, for the government, or in tourism. The Sherpas and the Gurkhas, two Nepalese groups, are known for their special skills. The Sherpas, a Himalayan people, have won fame as guides and porters for mountain-climbing expeditions. Sherpa men and women carry heavy loads up to high altitudes. Gurkhas are Nepalese soldiers in the British or Indian army. Suffering


Back on the Highway

I was fading up because of searching the way otherwise I enjoyed the journey through the mountains, river and forest, it was unforgettable walk. I moved towards Dhalkebar in the evening that was just 35 Km from Sindhuli. I went to the Police Station and requested to help me for the accommodation. With the help of Police I got the place in just 50 rupees. It was a house cum guest house but with a Dormitory, at that time I was alone. But just after half an hour a foreigner came on bicycle and tried to enquire about the rent. I was sitting inside but when I heard English conversation, I came out. I spoke to him on behalf of the owner and he joined me. I was very happy to see him. When I saw his bicycle I understood that he was also on an expedition. Once he got fresh, we spent some time chatting. He was Mathew Blaylock from England & was traveling since last ten months. His journey would end up after two and half months. He has visited ten countries i.e. Australia, Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia and others. But he flew many times and spent around 7000 US$. He was traveling just as a tourist. I enquired him about the conditions of countries, which I would be visiting. When I told him about my expedition he was also happy as I. He was praising me for the cause, which I was walking for. We spent good time together, had dinner with Roti's after long time.

I do not know what happened to me since, last 3-4 nights, I was not getting proper and sound sleep & a little back pain. Next day early morning before we start our journey, we took each others photographs and wished for the rest of the journey. I could feel the change in temperature; it was flat surface & was feeling hot and hot.

Later I walked through Lahan, a small village and spent a night in an asylum before reaching Bhardah. I searched an asylum here and people said that there was one guest house in the temple. When I went in the temple, I came to know that the guest house was closed since long time. No body lives in and no body maintains it. The priest of the temple was sitting at a hotel near the temple. At first I explained to the priest about my expedition and requested him to show the guest house, as there was no alternative other than spending a night in Bhardah village. I met a small boy who was very naughty and was nice to me; he showed me the guest house. I had a different picture in mind but the reality was much different. In no angle it was a guest house. There were two dirtiest rooms, for one room there was no doors at all but for other there were (front and back) front could be locked from inside but not the back. There was a broken table, the whole room was full of sheet both of animal & human. It was extremely dirty. Whenever I get in to any kind of problem I used to leave it up to God. I knew I would face many such situations and was prepared for anything. I kept my rucksack in the hotel and requested the boy and his mother (hotel owner) to give me a broom and a dirty cloth with a bucket to take the water from the tube-well. The room so called guest house was just adjacent to the hotel. It was getting dark so I wanted to do it fast. The small boy helped me a lot. His name was Ravi he brought the broom, a bucket and a dirty cloth. I poured lot of water, swept and cleaned the room. We tried to dry it with the cloth. I closed the back door putting the table and a big stone on it and the front door could not be locked. When those people saw the hard work, they gave me a big gunny bag (a bag made up of cotton rope and long around 4-5 feet), which I put on the ground and then kept my rucksack. After that I took bath in front of the hotel at the open space at the tube well site. There were no lights in the asylum so I bought candles and Mosquito coils & essence sticks to get rid of the bad smell. While I had dinner few villagers started an enquiry about me. I continued the same story here too. They all were very nice and kind, they asked me to take care few people were not aware that I was staying in the guest house, they surprised and said the border is just a Km and Bihari's (People of Bihar) are known for robbery and murder in their area. They also asked me not to come out from the room at night. I told them that I believe in God and God will take care of me. I had very good dinner the boy’s mother prepared special dinner (compared to village standard) for me and charged less. It was because of the small boy Ravi, who asked his parents to do so.


Dirtiest Accommodation

This was the 16th day in Nepal, I could not sleep peacefully just because of fear. I found myself with one piece and all my belongings were as it is except my sleeping mat that got dirty. Last night Ravi told me that I should visit his school, as everybody understands Hindi. This village was nearest one to the border so most of them were Indian origin and could speak very good Hindi rather Bihari. I packed my rucksack kept it in the hotel and went with Ravi to his school. I carried Poster and stickers with me. I got the permission from the principal of the school. All the students were sitting inside the class. The teacher gathered them all in the ground and at the end of the speech I found that the message was delivered successfully.

While coming back Ravi showed me Mr. Udit Narayan's brother. I was surprised and thought this young boy making me full but then he called that man and told him that I am from Mumbai. When I got to know, I was surprised but it was fact his whole family lives in Bhardah. I saw his name even in the list of donor's of the temple. He born in Bhardah, means he is from Nepal. Mr. Udit Narayan is one of the famous male singers in India. He has earned name & fame in Mumbai in very short time.


Itahari

I came back from the school, picked up my rucksack and moved towards Itahari the next destination. In the afternoon I reached a village and had lunch. I saw many flags with the picture of Tree. I found out about it, it was the sign of a political party in the election. I requested to show me the office of that party if there is any. I got happy when the person showed me the office. I contacted a young man, there were many other people, and they all stopped their work looking at me. I explained him about the expedition and requested to provide 2-3 flags for me to use them as banner for the expedition. I requested them because the quality of those banners was very good. The picture of tree was printed nicely and was washable. I was happy that even in the rain nothing would happen to the banner. Those people got very happy knowing about the expedition and more happy because I would be doing free publicity for them, as I would walk with the banner (conveying the message of planting trees) on the back of the rucksack. They gave me 2 flags I thanked them and was very happy.

When I reached Itahari in the evening saw the Rotary board again. Contacted two-three Rotary Club members and finally President Rotarian Devikanandan Agarwal helped me in putting up in an asylum and gifted me a T-shirt. (He was running a petrol pump so he had Gulf Companies T-shirts)

This day was 24th May, one of the Rotary Club Members Rotarian Rajesh Agarwal had arranged for the speech in a boarding school. Principal Mr. Thapa welcomed me and made arrangements for the speech. I delivered the message with some posters & stickers distribution.

Immediately after the speech I moved towards Dharan, which was just 18 Km. I had contact of one of the Rotaract members. When I reached Dharan in the afternoon at 3 O'clock, he took me along to his house. His name was Sneh Goel. When he and other Rotaract members came to know about my expedition, they called a local News Paper reporter who interviewed me and took photograph. This was the first time that I got such a good response from the fellow Rotaractors in Nepal.


The Grandma

Mr. Goel’s family was very big and was living together, during breakfast all other family members came, as I was wanted to move towards Biratnagar. I got too much love from his family, his grandmother said, "It's our pleasure that you have come to our house and stayed, you slept on the floor and didn't asked for anything. You are sent by the God, you are Son of God." She was making me a great person, she told me to carry a stick for self-protection. Looking at her love and caring advice, tears came out of my eyes. I thanked everyone and moved to Biratnagar.


Last few days in Nepal

Since 25th May I walked through Biratnagar, Damak, Birtamode and reached Phikal on 28th May. Every day I got rain for covering these towns. Sometimes it was easy and sometimes I had to hitchhike due to heavy rain. All those places Police helped me for the accommodation in lodge at a concession rates & visited few schools there but many schools denied permission due to examinations. As I wrote earlier that I was not getting proper and good slip it continued until I reach Phikal and finally I got good & sound sleep there due to cold weather there. I noticed change in atmosphere again as I was moving towards Darjeeling. The border was just 10 Km from Phikal. It is also known as Pashupati Nagar.


About Nepal

Until the late 1700's, Nepal consisted of a number of small, independent kingdoms. About A.D. 400, the Kathmandu Valley, where the Nepalese capital is now located, came to be called Nepal. Through the centuries, bands of conquerors, nomads, and refugees moved into Nepal. They came from Central Asia, India, and Tibet and were the ancestors of the Nepalese. In the mid -1700's, Prithwi Narayan Shah, a king from a small Nepalese kingdom called Gorkha, began a military campaign to unify the country. By the time of his death in 1775, he had conquered most of what is now Nepal. He took the title of king of Nepal, and his descendants have served as monarchs ever since. In the early 1800's, Nepal fought a war against Britain. Nepal had attempted to expand its boundaries into northern India. A British trading company called the East India Company controlled much of India at that time, and British soldiers guarded India's borders. Britain declared war on Nepal in 1814 after Nepalese troops attacked a British outpost. The British expected an easy victory, but the Nepalese were accustomed to fighting in the mountains. The British Army suffered heavy losses but finally defeated the Nepalese in 1816. After the war, Britain and Nepal became allies. The Gurkha soldiers of the Nepalese forces impressed the British, and Britain has recruited Gurkhas for its armies since that time.

In 1846, a political leader named Jung Bahadur seized control of Nepal's government. He took the honorary title of Rana and declared that a member of his family would serve as Prime Minister from then on. Until 1951, members of the Rana family held complete control of the government. During this period, the king had no power. The Ranas dominated the army, imprisoned their opponents, and even killed rivals whom they considered dangerous. During the 1930's and 1940's, opposition to Rana rule grew in Nepal. A revolution began in Nepal in 1950. The revolution overthrew the government and restored the monarchy to power under King Tribhuwan Shah in 1951. During the early 1950's, the government made various attempts to create a democracy in Nepal. King Tribhuwan died in 1955. He was succeeded by his son, Mahendra. Mahendra criticized the rivalry among political parties in democratic systems. In 1960, he declared that Nepal needed a political system that would suit its traditions. He dissolved the elected government that existed and took over power. Political parties were banned. In 1962, he put into effect a constitution that established the panchayat system, in which most power is held by the monarch. Under Mahendra's rule, the government stressed economic development, tourism, road construction, and hydroelectric power. Mahendra died in 1972, and his son, Birendra, succeeded him as king. Birendra has continued his father's programmes.

In 1979, many Nepalese staged violent demonstrations, in part to demand a more democratic government. In response to the demands, Birendra allowed a national vote on the government system. By a narrow margin, the voters chose to continue Nepal's system. In 1990, violent demonstrations calling for more democracy broke out again. The king lifted the ban on political parties, and an interim government was formed. In November 1990, a constitution was approved that made Nepal a constitutional monarchy. In May 1991, democratic multiparty parliamentary elections were held. The Nepali Congress Party won a majority of the seats in the House of Representatives. In elections held in 1994, the Communist Party of Nepal won the most seats.

Nepal is divided into 75 districts for purposes of local government. Each district is divided into cities and villages. The people elect a committee and a committee head to administer each district, city, and village.

Hinduism is the official religion of Nepal. However, the Nepalese have combined the beliefs and practices of Hinduism with those of Buddhism. Buddha, the founder of Buddhism, was born in Nepal about 563 B.C. The Nepalese people celebrate the festivals of both Buddhism and Hinduism, and Buddhist shrines and Hindu temples are considered equally sacred. Many of the people of Nepal also worship local gods and spirits and consult shamans (witch doctors) in times of illness. Some Hindus in Nepal practice polygyny, a form of marriage in which a husband has more than one wife. Polyandry, the practice of a wife having more than one husband, occurs among some of the Tibetan groups in northern Nepal. In most such cases, the woman marries two or more brothers. The children who are born of such marriages regard the oldest husband as their father and his brothers as uncles.

Illiteracy ranks as one of Nepal's most serious problems. During the 1950's, the government began a programme to build schools and train teachers throughout Nepal. At that time, perhaps as few as 5 per cent of the people 15 years old or older could read and write. The programme has helped increase the percentage to about 20. Tribhuwan University is Nepal's only university. It includes a main campus in Kathmandu and many other campuses in the country.

About half of the people speak Nepali--the country's official language--as their native tongue. Most of the rest of the people use Nepali as a second language. Nepali is related to the languages of northern India. More than 50 other languages and dialects are spoken.

The currency of Nepal is Nepalese Rupee (1US$ = 70). The Nepal flag has two crimson triangles trimmed in blue, one above the other. The top triangle features the moon and the lower one the sun, symbols of the long life of Nepal. It is the only nonrectangular country flag.


Back in India

On 29th May after spending almost a month in Nepal, early morning when I left Phikal it was raining heavily. I enjoyed walk in rain, I had an umbrella with me. Darjeeling was just 35 km. I saw many tea gardens on the hills. The whether conditions were really encouraging and I loved such conditions always. En – route I stopped many times and carried on my walk, I reached Darjeeling in the evening. I had no contact of Rotary or Rotaract member in Darjeeling so I enquired about the Youth Hostel. It was not very far, first time in the whole expedition I was searching for the Youth Hostel for the accommodation. I got a bed in the Dormitory, but it was as good as single room, no doubt it consisted of almost 20 Beddings but nobody was staying in, I was alone. It was around 7 O'clock. I was wet even my rucksack, so I arranged the things and kept for drying. Rest of the evening I spent time with a female foreigner, who was staying in Ladies Dormitory and was not feeling well, she told me that she was suffering from fever. I tried to help her by providing a good medicine that I used to carry for fever. She was from Holland and was just 25 years old. She was alone and traveled first to Nepal and now in India. Her name was Cristina. We enjoyed watching Television and chatting in the entertainment hall. It was really nice to talk about our country as well as to know other countries. We went out for the dinner in a hotel. She was very much interested in my expedition and was talking always about the expedition.


Darjeeling

So I was back again in India, in the morning, when I came out for the exercise Wowwwwwwwwww what a beauty!! It was beauty of nature and one could see the range of beautiful mountains and deep-deep valley's. It was amazing. Yesterday it was raining and clouds were in the sky but this morning it was clear with bright sun shine. Cristina also came on the terrace and was amazed with the beauty of nature. She was looking fresh. She thanked me for the medicine. After exercise I took bath and moved out in search of Rotary Club Member and got the success in finding one Rotarian Lee Pradhan (Principal of Comila School) who was not there but came to know he would meet the next day.

Darjeeling lies on a series of terraces on a ridge in the foothills of the Himalaya. It stands at about 2,160 metres above sea level. The high altitude makes the city cool and pleasant throughout the year, with average temperatures ranging from 4 °C in January to 17 °C in July. The city has a high average annual rainfall of more than 300 centimetres. Most of the rainfall occurs in the summer, especially between June and September, when mists and clouds often shroud Darjeeling and the surrounding areas. People who live in the Indian lowlands seek relief from the heat by staying at one of Darjeeling's resort hotels in September and October. In the mostly dry winter months, visitors to Darjeeling enjoy superb views of green valleys and snowcapped peaks. Mount Kanchenjunga can be seen from the city. Mount Everest is visible from just outside the city.

The well-known Darjeeling tea grows on hillsides near the city. A small, narrow-gauge railway climbs to the city from the plains over steep slopes and through tea plantations and forests of teak. A wide square serves as an open-air bazaar for trading. The British made Darjeeling the summer capital of the Bengal region in the 1800's.


Schools

On the second day I Met Rotarian Lee Pradhan who was the Rotary member for 15 years. He was a busy man, so he asked me to brief him in short. I explained him in short and requested his support and co-operation for arranging the speech in various schools. He was also running a School, the Comila School. He asked me to speak to his school students first. I delivered the message, distributed two stickers and membership cards. It was a very nice talk Mr. Lee realized the work that I was doing. Later he gave me names and contact person of many schools. I visited & delivered speech in India's one of the biggest schools, St. Paul's high School, It was superbly built and biggest school I ever been in my expedition. I saw only in the movies but it was in reality. I came to know high standard, means rich students study in that school. It was a residential School. It was just a great school. After the speech here Mr. Dwiwedi announced amongst students to give their parent's address to get help in other countries, as many students were from Bhutan and Bangladesh that I would be going next. I never expected such a great response from all. I got few names with the address. Rotarian S. Chakravorthy was very impressed and immediately called up Rotarian Uday Mani pradhan to allow me to attained Rotary club meet. He also asked me to have food in his hotel "Hotel Spring burn" till I am in Darjeeling. It was one of the unforgettable and great experiences in this school. In Darjeeling I was visiting many schools, every day. Turn Bull High School; Green Lawns School; St. Joseph; St. Michel and Mount Harmoney Schools. The response was as usual, very good from the students and teachers.


Assistance

I gave one photo film for developing and printing at Das Photo Studio and requested for concession, as I used to do at every place. Sometimes I used to get some concession, sometimes free and sometimes with full payment. The owner was an old man he asked me to come next day and told me that he would tell how much I would pay. Next day when I went to Das photo studio, the old man saw my photographs and didn't charge any thing. I was also interviewed by News Paper reporters & Cable television reporter here. In Darjeeling every day I had lunch and dinner in Spring Burn Hotel, of Rotarian S. Chakravorthy. During my stay here in Darjeeling I came across a very good book "Future of a person" I got to learn a lot and got lot of suggestions and indication for the self improvement. I would suggest readers to find this book for self-improvement.

On 3rd May in the evening I joined Rotary Meeting, it was the unforgettable meeting with the Darjeeling Rotarians, I got warm welcome by all the Rotarians. They made me today’s speaker and listen to me peacefully. The club members were so enthusiastic that they supported me financially and even Rotarian Uday Mani Pradhan told me that he would send few of his friends name with address to contact them in Bhutan. This club had meeting in Mayfair Hotel. The owner of this hotel was a Rotary member. He offered to take the dinner in his hotel. I would move the next day so I thanked all the members for their overall support to spread my message in Darjeeling. I personally visited Mr. S. Chakraborty and thanked him for his encouragement and fooding support.

After Darjeeling it took me almost 10 days to reach border or Bhutan I went to Kurseong just 35 km and then to Siliguri (40 Km) by using lot of short cuts. In Siliguri I went to North Bengal clinic to get help from Rotarian Salil Dutta, as Rotarian Uday mani Pradhan mailed him about me. He asked me to wait at the Rotary hall It was 5 O'clock so I waited for two hours, as the meeting was at 7 p.m. The Rotarians got happy that on Environment day (5th June) they got to listen something on environment. There I stayed in the Rotary hall itself. I took almost two to three days stoppage at every places and visited many schools there. Many times I stayed in the asylums.


Bhutan


Entry

On 14th June it was raining again but I didn't stop my regular routine. I reached Jaigaon i.e. India and Bhutan Border. I could see the Hills, which is the sign of Bhutan. I contacted Mr. Goel (Father of a student who was studying in Darjeeling, where many students have given me their parents contact numbers to get the HELP) Mr. Goel was already aware about my Expedition, his son explained him when he was at home during the vacation. He made accommodation in an asylum in Dormitory. It was little cold out there.


Phuentsholing

I was still staying in India. Today, the first important work was to get a separate room, because I could not leave my luggage in the dormitory. I ran behind the manager, and at last, at 10:00am; I got a separate room. Phuentsholing is the name of the town. The only separation was a huge gate at the entrance with Bhutan police checking each and everyone's I-card. I have seen the uniform of Bhutia people (Indians call them Bhutia). They wear a big coat, similar to a night suit; it is folded to the knee, and is compulsory for all Bhutan male citizens. I showed my passport, the police checked my baggage, enquired for what purpose I wanted to go in, and then only they allowed me to enter. So this was Bhutan, and you could make out the difference between the two countries by looking at these two border towns. This country is surrounded and situated on hills. From time to time I passed stalls displaying all sorts of delicacies - sweets, white bread, and what not. I felt like having something which was not expensive.

At noon I visited Phuentsholing Primary School, contacted the teacher concerned, and he took me to the principal. The principal asked me one question: 'Will you be asking for money after you deliver the speech?' I replied “No, madam, I have something to give, that is posters and stickers”. When she confirmed that I would not ask for money, she asked me to return on June 16th; at 7:30am. Later, I visited the office of the Indian Embassy and met Mr Pandit, who was from Maharashtra (the similar state that I was from). He gave me a letter which would make, getting a pass, an easy task. He then asked me to list the places where I wanted to go in Bhutan. He gave me the names of a few of his friends and their contact details, saying they could help me while in Bhutan. At first, I contacted Mr Ajay Sharma, who runs one of the biggest and best hotels in Phuentsholing, Central Hotel. When he saw my photographs, he got so happy and excited that he asked me to come and stay in his hotel. He also said that I should have food in the hotel itself. He called up a few of his staff members, introduced me, and ordered his staff to take care of me. He was really a kind man. I went back to the asylum, packed my rucksack, and moved into his hotel. I got the best room with all the facilities in it. For dinner, I got a special tasty dish of nettle spinach – very good food, like you get in five-star hotels. To me, moving into the hotel meant I was actually in Bhutan. So this entry was for my fourth country, including India. It was so nice to say for me that I have covered three countries.


Phuentsholing School

The next day, I got up very early, completed my regular exercise, took a bath and moved towards the Phuentsholing Primary School at 7:30; as the principal had asked me to. I reached there on time, there the teacher and principal welcomed me. During Assembly, all the school students stood, said their prayer, and sang the National Anthem. Now they were staring at me, one of the teachers introduced me to the students, and then handed me the mike. There was much curiosity, about the expedition, on each student's face that I saw the same look of surprise, shock, and what not. I had a nice time, in a new country with new people, but everything seemed the same as elsewhere. Everything was similar as in other schools: I distributed posters and stickers, knowing that every time they look at them, they would remember WWF, me and my message. That was the idea behind distributing posters and stickers (which I got from the WWF offices - now I will get some more from Thimphu WWF office). The teachers and the principal asked me to take a cup of rancid butter-tea with them. In Bhutan, one good thing was: the medium of study in English, whereas Bhutan has its local language called Zongkha, which I found difficult to learn. But there was no necessity to learn it because mostly everyone understood English even in the villages. Bhutan itself does not have much scope for the students where jobs are concerned, so the King of Bhutan made English the language of education, so the students would not have a problem with the language if they wanted to work in India or elsewhere. The currency of Bhutan is ngultrum (nu), and one ngultrum equals one Indian rupee.

I came back to the hotel, and had delicious parotha's in my breakfast. The staffs were interested to know about the school talk - how it was, what did I talk about, and so on. I explained them as there was no rush in the hotel. Generally in the month of June, July & August the hotel is half empty due to very heavy rain. Almost whole staff was Indian but few female staffs were local, Bhutanese. Later, after breakfast, I visited Phuentsholing High School. This time there was not much difficulty getting permission for the talk because I had already delivered the speech in Phuentsholing primary School. The principal here was also a female, and she also asked me the same question as the other school principal that whether I would ask for payment after my speech. When I said 'no', she gave me permission, and asked me to come the next day – June 17th - again at assembly time, 7:30am.


Entry permit

Around 11 o'clock, I visited Bhutan immigration office to get the permit to enter Bhutan (Actually, Indians does not require a visa to enter Bhutan - only a permit has to be taken, which is valid for the given time. For other people, Bhutan's Visa fee was too high, and that was the reason you hardly get to see any foreigner even though Bhutan has a gift of natural beauty). I had to do a lot of convincing with the Bhutanese officer, even though I carried a letter from the Indian Consulate. The officer asked me to give the names of the villages or places where I would be staying overnight. On the previous night, I had studied the map of Bhutan, and found there was only one route through which I could travel. So I gave him the names of the villages found along that route. After showing him all the documents and newspaper cuttings, the officer asked me to come the next day, because he would take permission from Thimphu for the special walk expedition. He gave me a number of reasons for why it is difficult to issue a permit, such as the villagers might cause trouble or tries to rob; there is very low or equal to no habitation en-route; I would face food problems; Bhutan roads are through forests, and there are wild animals, mostly bears. If anything went wrong, who would be responsible? I immediately returned to the Indian Consulate to talk to Mr Pandit; I explained the problem to him and requested he talk to the immigration officers as they were very hesitant about issuing the permit, and I was a little worried.

The next day, I went to Phuentsholing High School. I found everything was same as it had happened in the primary school. When I had been at the high school yesterday, I saw a World Map book that had much more details than the one I had with me. So after the speech, I requested the principal if she could exchange it for me. One important thing I have noticed here is that there were many Indian teachers in this school, mostly Keralites. They were very happy, and praised me. Someone from their own homeland had come to talk about preservation and that too on foot. Later I went to the immigration office, doubting whether I would get the permit or not, as the Bhutan laws are very strict. But when I met the officer, he had the permit ready, although it was only for fifteen days in Bhutan; it was valid up to Thimphu, and that was 175 kilometres away. If I wanted to travel beyond Thimphu, I would have to get an extension from Thimphu itself. But before leaving the immigration office, the officer told me that they have permitted me to travel in Bhutan only on one condition that I should not walk. I told him my expedition is on foot, but he refused. So I said 'okay', got the permit, and moved on.

Again, I visited Mr Pandit at the Indian Consulate. He told me not to worry, and said 'You carry on with your mission', and issued me another letter that stated: 'For any clarification, please contact Mr Pandit.' He was so nice that he took care of everything.


Deborah’s Departure

I searched for an internet café or an office having Internet connection and got in one on request. When I checked my account, I was shocked, there was mail from Deborah Denhardt (WWF-International) saying that she would be leaving WWF and Mr Steven Drayton would take over. Deborah was the only ray of hope I had for my mission. She has helped me throughout the expedition in many ways. I didn't know whether Mr Drayton had any idea about my expedition or not and he would help me or not. I replied Deborah and requested her to ask Mr Drayton to help me. At the same time, I got a few photocopies made of newspaper cuttings of my article on it and photographs. I packed everything in an envelope and posted to WWF-International Switzerland, addressed to Steven Drayton.


Back on track

I wasn't afraid for what the Bhutanese officer told about the problems, but there was need to know more for myself about the area, people, route, and everything that was required. In the evening, I went to get those fourteen photographs I had handed in yesterday for printing. When the owner, Mr Raj, saw those photos, he enquired more about my expedition, and later he said 'You do not have to pay for these'. I thanked him and moved back to the hotel. I thanked Mr Ajay Sharma, owner of the Central Hotel, for his great support. I had dinner, wrote Thank You letters to my supporters in India, and went to bed at 11:00pm.


Walk in Bhutan

The hotel staffs were taking care of my needs - even Mr Sharma was helping me a lot. After spending enough time in Phuentsholing, I moved on, but the hotel staff prepared breakfast for me much earlier than the scheduled time. These were the sort of people who gave me the motivation to continue my mission. This was the rainy season in Bhutan, and in India, so the hotel staff gave me a small pack of salt to remove leeches, which stick to your skin and suck your blood. You can't remove them easily, but pouring salt on them makes them let go. People also scared me, talking about the bears. It was the first day of my walk in Bhutan: I saw green trees everywhere; the scenery was unforgettable. You would get to see amazing beauty of nature. The wide plains were diversified by stretches of hill-country with low passes, and tree-covered mountains.

After walking three kilometres, I reached the immigration check post. The guards were looking at me with curiosity because the office was situated on the hill, and they could see me approaching almost a kilometre before. Mr Pandit had told me how to handle these people: I told them that I am practicing for a base camp, and studying the environment of Bhutan, so that I would be walking for just 10-15 kilometres and would get back on the bus. They asked me to take out everything from my rucksack to check, they allowed me to go only when they were satisfied. This is the busiest road in Bhutan, so there were cars, buses, trucks, and motorcycles. But after some time, it rained heavily for 15 to 20 minutes; but I enjoyed walking even in the rain, thanks to the umbrella. At a point from where I could see India, I spent fifteen minutes taking photographs, and ate a pack of Chinese noodles, which can be eaten without cooking. I had my first thrilling experience in Bhutan on that first day: there was a road going up the hill, with a landslide portion just 75-100 meters away. I thought if I could climb that portion, I could save about two kilometres of walking. I climbed with success, but it was very difficult, carrying a 25kg rucksack and umbrella in one hand and a water bottle in the other. I came to another similar stretch about four o'clock, but this time I got into trouble. The earlier part of the hill was steeply inclined but straight, but the landslide portion was damaged. At the end, after successfully climbing about seventy-five percent, there was a plain portion almost at a 75 degree angle. When I looked down, I got scared. I got stuck, was neither able to move up nor moving down was possible due to landslide damage. I became even more scared when I saw the top of the road, and could actually see the tyres of the trucks and buses. It felt like the stones would fall on me or a truck would come down tumbling. I prayed, and tried several different ways to get out of it, but in vain. At last a truck-driver saw me from the road. I shouted and showed him my hand. It was just impossible to tell him anything from the top. But I made him understand that I was stuck and needed help. He was a small Indian man, with a thick beard. First he shouted to me, and then asked me to tie the rucksack to a chain he had, I did so. Also threw the water bottle and umbrella. Again, he asked me to hold the chain, and pulled me up. He shouted enquiring about me but when I explained to him in detail, he cooled down. It was 4 O ’Clock and would get dark in an hour or two due to cloudy weather. I was already thirty kilometres away from Phuentsholing. I asked him if there were any villages nearby, and he told me the nearest village - Gedu was at least another fifteen kilometres away. He said it is impossible to cover that distance even in two hours, he asked me to sit in his truck. I knew it would not be possible for me to cover the distance even in two hours. I sat in his truck and he drove me to the village Gedu. I thanked him and went in search of accommodation. First I visited the police station, and got my permit signed and stamped. I enquired about the hotel and found two small hotels but due to the Tala Hydraulic Project based in this village and many people come for their work and stay in the hotels, there were no rooms vacant. I found there was a guesthouse of the Tala Hydraulic Project. Many Indians were working on that project, I met one of them and requested for the accommodation. I got a small room to spend the night. But the situation was not good: it was very cold, and I couldn't take a bath though I was wanted to. I had dinner - rice and noodles; then I returned to the hotel and had some fruits, came back to the project room, and slept.


Tshimalkha (the heaven)

This was my 5th day in Bhutan – after completing the regular morning work like exercise, packing my rucksack, having bath and then food etc. I paid for the guesthouse, bought 2-3 packs of Chinese noodles and some bread for en-route journey as there were no hotels for long distances, and moved towards Tshimalkha. Walking on this route I found heaven, I do not have words for expressing the beauty of nature. I think this may be the loveliest spot on the earth: on one side you have mountains, and on the other side, you could see deep valleys, many beautiful waterfalls, full greenery - it was like heaven, though I do not know how the heaven is. The route was also much scarier because of noisy waterfalls and no habitation on the way. Due to cloudy and rainy weather this site was more beautiful. It rained heavily at noon, lasting 3-4 hours. The problem in Bhutan is landslides. I came across many places where landslides had occurred; here I found a tent and some people with a crane doing the work of removing mud and stone to clear the highway. This type of picture I saw twice, in one of the tents I spent an hour, had food and moved on. It was easy walk with tremendous joy, though most of the areas are inhabitant. I knew that up to Thimphu there is no problem for hitchhike. I would be getting many vehicles due to the only busiest highway. In the evening I hitchhiked to reach Chukha (Tshimalkha).


A small Village

I was little wet, my half body from the west was fully wet. I used to wear Bermuda shorts while walking. One of the Indian friends in Gedu told me that I would find a guest house here too, so I enquired about the guesthouse and found it. Spoke to the manager, and got a very good room for Rs 100. This place was much colder than Gedu, but the guesthouse had a heater to keep the room warm, hot water, food, and all comforts. It was like a hotel. I felt very tired; I took a bath with little warm water, had dinner, and went to bed early. The next day was very cold – I think, five to six degrees - but the morning was pleasant. I studied the working of the schools in Bhutan, so I got ready immediately after exercise and reached at the Chukha High School, Tshimalakha before 7.00 O ‘clock. After I had a talk with the principal, I was given permission to speak after assembly. Today's speech satisfied me very much. The students and teachers stood more than half an hour to listen to me, and I could see motivation amongst the students, with whom I spent a lot of time. It was a small village, but crowded, because of the district town. The village is called a Dzongkhag (many villages come under one district that is call a Dzongkhag - this is the post of chief or head of the district like a district Collector in India). Chukha really deserved to be called a village. It contains more than 500 houses grouped about a monastery, and round the village were cultivated fields. It was situated in a valley which was covered in fog in the early morning. Small children were seated on the roofs of the houses for study as well as for sunbath. This village had an office of the Hydro Power Corporation, and office of the Dzongkhag. There was a small market where you could buy everything fairly cheap in comparison to Phuentsholing, where I tried to buy one sweater, but found it too expensive. But at least I had a windcheater cum raincoat that protected me from the cold as well as from the rain. In the afternoon, I had lunch and took a bath, washed a few clothes, and spent time with the villagers, enquiring about the problems they face. I shall never cease thinking of this beautiful place with yearning, and if I could choose where to spend the rest of my life, it would be in Chukha. I would build myself a house and have one of the rushing mountain streams running through my garden, in which every kind of fruit would grow.


Scary path

I decided to rest the next day in Paro, another Dzongkhag and tourist place. I packed my rucksack, had breakfast, and started walking. When I reached the highway, I was very scared. I could hardly see anything ten feet ahead. It was fog. The manager of the guesthouse had said it would be very dangerous to walk in the fog. I might get to see a bear, the only animal that could be seen on the road. I stopped at a place where, for around fifty metres back I was able to see but twenty metres ahead, full of fog, I was unable to see anything except the scary noise of waterfall. I was stuck. I couldn't go back, and neither could I go ahead. So I decided to wait for someone to come from the other side so that I could walk along. Now, when I think about the situation, I laugh at myself. Actually, while I waited, I didn't have any kind of weapon except for a lighter (not for smoking, but for emergencies). I collected a few stones, thinking if any animal comes or anything happens I could light my jacket and use stones to prevent an attack. There was another reason for fear: a noisy waterfall running just fifty metres ahead. People have said bears come out to drink water. I was alone standing in the middle of the forest. I saw many vehicles crossing; I tried to stop them, but all efforts in vain. After 15-20 minutes of waiting, I saw a villager with a stick in one hand and a grass cutter in the other coming from ahead of me. I enquired about the fog conditions ahead. His English was not too god, but then I conveyed my message in broken language with the help of body movements. Often, when I face a language problem, I simply use body language, which is an effective tool.


Little inputs

When I felt confident, I moved ahead. Later, I got cars, trucks, and buses on the way but no habitation. At the same time I saw two girls of around 16-17 years of age going the same way. They were schoolgirls, so there was no language problem. I explained to them why I was waiting and they laughed at me. They said, “Never mind, we do not have any problem, you could join us. We are going for more than three kilometres.” I had a nice walk with the girls. I got the chance to know the feelings of these girls, and I came to know that the Bhutanese law is very strict; if anyone breaks it, the punishment is severe. Girls hate to wear their traditional or national dress.

In 1972, King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk died and was succeeded by his son, Jigme Singye Wangchuk. In 1990, the Nepali-speaking population of southern Bhutan staged huge demonstrations against the government of the north Bhutanese. Aspects of government policy thought to have caused resentment in the south include the new Citizenship Act of 1985, which was implemented retroactively (from a date in the past).

The enforcement of Driglam Namzha - the traditional dress code - in the south, and the removal of the Nepali language from the school curriculum are thought to have further contributed to the country's crisis. By 1993, approximately 90,000 refugees from southern Bhutan occupied camps in Nepal, Assam, and West Bengal.

They have no freedom for wearing dress according to them. They cannot wear anything else. They told me that when they go to Phuentshooling, they wear whatever they like. On the way they showed me a house at the top of the hill. It was a jail where prisoners won't get anything to eat until they die. They even told me if anyone commits murder, the police used to cut their hands off, put the murderer in a rucksack, and push him from the top of the hill. But now it has been reduced to some extent. They also told that twenty to thirty years before, when there were no police, evildoers were publicly sentenced. The punishment was pretty drastic, but they seemed to suit the mentality of the population. They told me a story about a man who had stolen jewellery from one of the top ranking officers’ house in the village. He was convicted of the offence, and what we would think an inhuman sentence was carried out: his hands were publicly cut off and he was then thrown in to the valley for the vultures. But now the King and people have become more kind or lenient. I loved their company.


The GREF

On this walk, I crossed the 8,000 feet altitude mark. By evening I reached the junction where one road goes to Paro and the other to Thimphu. Paro was just 8-9 kilometres from the junction. I saw a camp of the Indian army before the Paro main town. I always search for the possibilities of accommodation at a nice place, whether free or by paying. Addition to all if I find any institution, I always wish and try to get accommodate in it. At this camp I enquired for the chief of the camp. Col. Banerjee was the in charge of this camp, he was a nice gentleman, he was very happy to know my mission then adventure and wished me good luck for my endeavour. He asked me what help I wanted, I requested him for accommodation for two days. He immediately called one of his subordinates and asked to provide one of the vacant rooms for me. He also asked him to introduce me to the cook for my food arrangements during my two days stay. Initially many army men saw me with a rucksack, but they were not aware about my mission. Slowly when everyone in the camp came to know, they all responded in the similar manner as many people did.


8th day in Bhutan

On the eighth day morning, I exercised at the bank of the River Paro, which runs exactly opposite to the camp. This was another Dzongkhag (city), situated in the valley. It was known as one of the best and most beautiful cities in Bhutan. Paro town, western Bhutan, in the Himalayas on the Paro River. Centred on Fort Paro, a large rectangular building with a seven-story tower, it was the main cultural, commercial, and political centre of the country until the national capital was settled at Thimphu in 1962; Paro remains the summer capital. It is connected by the Indo-Bhutan National Highway to Phuntsholing on the Indian border, and it has an air landing strip. The Paro River valley, with temperatures ranging from an average of 40 F (4 C) in January to 75 F in July and annual rainfall averaging 30-35 inches (760-890 mm), is intensively cultivated; it is one of the most densely settled regions of Bhutan.

I came to know more about the camp while having my breakfast with the men there, and found it was not an army camp. It was known as GREF (General Reserve Engineering Force), and was a division of the Army but it takes care of road construction, clearing landslides, and bridge construction in Bhutan. It was run and paid by the Indian government. Staffs, come here on a minimum of three years deputation, where they get more pay than in India.

I was lucky enough to witness one of the festivals in Bhutan. I saw many people were walking in a line. Each house had fresh-cut pine trees decked out with flags and stuck on the roofs; religious texts were solemnly recited and tsampa offered to the Gods. The people bring an offering of butter to the temples, and soon the huge copper cauldrons are overflowing. Whit silk veils are draped around the gilded statues as a special mark of respect, and the worshippers reverently lay their foreheads against them. Rich or poor, all come full of devotion and with no inner misgivings, to lay their offerings before the Gods and to pray for their blessing. Young boys were playing a kind of game like bowls, and the whole city was decorated with flags.


Law followers

I had lunch at the officer's mess where the food was nicely cooked and you got to eat a variety of food. But for junior level officers, the food is really not good uncooked and not at all good meat. Mr Pawar Has invited me for dinner at his home, where he showed me his beautiful sketches. By the next day I found there was respect for me from the GREF staffs, when each of them saw my photographs. But in Paro, for the first time in Bhutan, the school principal refused to allow me to talk. He asked me to get permission from the Dzongdag (Chief). Even after a lot of convincing and references of earlier schools, the principal did not listen, she was firm in her decision. Finally I had to go to the Dzongdag office for a letter of permission. The office was situated at the top of a hill, like a huge monastery, and here I experienced the strictness of Bhutan law. It was raining, so I opened my umbrella and walked. The security guards, standing at the gate, shouted at me when I entered the office premises. I didn't know why they were shouting, and when I came closer to them, they told me to shut the umbrella. I asked the reason; one of them told me that in any Dzongdag office you are not allowed with an umbrella and the cap. It hardly matters whether it rains heavily or has scorching sunrays. I had a small argument with them, but who dares to go against the law? I had to shut my umbrella. I wanted to get my work done, and if I had not listened to them, they would not have allowed me to go inside. The chief security guard asked me, why I wanted to see the Dzongdag? I explained to him, and he kept my passport to issue entry pass. When I entered the office, which was on the second floor with low doors and no lights. I felt as if I was walking through caves. The officer was called as Dzongdag, who was Mr Sherub Tebnzin. He was a very nice man; he praised me for the work that I was doing in their country, he didn't trouble me much. He asked the Education Officer to come to his office and asked him to prepare a letter for me. But as usual the junior officer took long time in issuing the two lines letter. It took me two hours to get it. I was very angry on him and people like him. They are the most corrupt people in this world. Due to people like that education officer the countries growth prospect is low. A fifteen minutes or maximum half an hour work in two hours, shame on such officer who don’t care for the value of the time spent by the other people. Many a times I found that most of the senior bosses are good but the culprits are the junior level officers, not all but few.

The letter was addressed to the principals of three schools in Paro, and stated: 'Mr Praveen Ohal, a member of WWF; would like to visit your school and give a talk on his environmental expedition to the students. You are therefore instructed to allow him to give his talk as requested. Signed Sherub Tenzin, Dzongdag'.

Carrying that letter, I went to Shaba High School, which was eight kilometres from the Dzongdag office, and was the same school I had visited in the morning. The principal had asked me to come at 1pm; I reached there on time, but the principal was not in the school. She came at 1:30, I was waiting for her. After I showed her the letter she arranged for the talk in a big hall. By the time she completes the arrangement it was 2:30pm; I missed the lunch. There were students from 7th and above classes. It was an interactive speech. I spent almost an hour with the children, and it was 4:00pm when I came back to the GREF camp. The caring Mess staff had kept lunch aside for me; I was very much pleased for his caring nature. I ate the food and spent the evening knowing more about the city. I also visited the newly constructed Paro Airport. I had a very good sleep and got up late that next morning, but moved out at 7:30 to Paro High School, which was six kilometres from the GREF camp. There were many Indian teachers in this school, they all encouraged me a lot. Then I visited Paro Junior School. With that letter there was no problem, the letter worked.


Thimphu

On the eleventh day - June 26th - I packed my rucksack, thanked everyone in the GREF camp, and they all wished me the best of luck. An officer asked me to ride in their truck as far as the bridge. I got down at the junction, where the road toes to Thimphu, and started walking. It was rainy again, but in a country where you have a pleasant atmosphere, even the rainy season is enjoyable. Thimphu was just 35 kilometres away from the junction, and a river flows alongside the road, but through the valley you get to see huge mountains. Thimphu is situated in a widespread valley at the bank of the river, and is known as the City of Clouds. It is 10,000 feet high. I could see the palace of the King from the top of the mountains, when I was still three to four kilometres away from the city. I found this capital as a small, developed town in India. You do not feel you have come to any country's capital, but the sky was clear and the atmosphere more pleasant. In Thimphu I got a cheap hotel with the help of Mr Singh, a friend of Sandip Agarwal of Phunentsholing. I got a small room with no ventilation. I was very tired, and the bottom of the rucksack was wet so I took out the wet items and put them aside for drying. The first three nights, I had a lot of problems because of the suffocating atmosphere in the room and problems with bugs. I hardly slept for three hours each night. Later I shifted into another room.


Meeting people

In Thimphu there was a very big Army camp - IMTRAT (Military Training Centre of India). Here, the Officer Commanding, Major Patil helped me with food during my stay in Thimphu. I requested, and got, a few medicines and glucose packets from the IMTRAT hospital. I got an extension and Travel permit to the restricted area for which the India House helped me. The officers provided me with a detailed map of Bhutan, and explained to me as much as they could, for safety, such as very low habitation en-route as compared to Thimphu-Phuentsholing road; even these side roads are not busy at all. The distance between two villages is about 60-80 kilometres. I got to visit the Ministry of External Affairs of the Royal Bhutan Government. The Health and Education Ministers wife, Rinchen, was a friend of Rotarian Uday Mani Pradhan-Darjeeling. She told me that her husband is the brother-in-law of the King, and helped me get a letter that allows me to visit schools and present speeches without any restriction.

I wanted to get print of the photo film, so I visited the biggest photo shop. The rates were almost double those in India, so I met the owner and request a concession. He gave me a concession of 50%, which came to 100% of the Indian cost. I got around 150 posters and stickers from the WWF Country Office, and they helped me with news coverage in Bhutan's national newspaper, the 'Kuentsell'. It was a weekly edition (they have no daily edition in Bhutan).

My first school visit was to the Changankha Jr School, where I got permission to deliver my talk during assembly. There were many Indian teachers, and one lady from Turkey who was doing some study on Bhutan's culture. There were more than five hundred students. It was the best talk I ever delivered, with lots of emotional touches and it created an urge amongst the students to do something to save our mother earth. The Turkish lady was so impressed; she kept taking pictures of me during my talk. The talk only went for 20-25 minutes, but the impact was tremendous. The other important people who helped me in Thimphu were Mrs Kezang Doma (for television and radio interview); Dr Getshen, who helped me in my meeting with the Environmental Minister (all were friends of Rotarian Uday Mani Pradhan of Darjeeling).

I was really lucky to meet the Environmental Minister. He was wearing a colourful national dress and had a sword with him. You have to bow down to meet him. After the introductions, he wished me the best of luck and asked his personal assistant to arrange a speech with the officers of the Ministry of the Environment so they could carry on such activities. The next day was July 2nd; my birthday. It was also the first time I was going to talk with the Environmentalists. I didn't know that the Minister would ask me to talk with his high officials. We sat down in a conference room where four male and two female officers joined us. When Mrs Nima Dorjee introduced me to these officials I found they were not happy. At first they didn't give any importance to me, but when I started talking and explained to them about my journey for the cause, they began to pay attention. My politeness touched their hearts, and soon they became friendly with me. I did not talk much - rather, I did not have much to add to their knowledge other than how they can help save the earth by involving students. I explained how and on what points I talked with the students, and how they can be motivated to take care of our surroundings, how the students can be influenced to do such kinds of activities and so forth. Mrs Dorjee handed over an envelope from the Ministry of the Environment, offering me financial support. I feel ashamed to say that other countries' governments support for Indians, and the Indian government itself, does not offer any kind of support in spite of repeated requests, wasting precious time in the various government departments. Mrs Dorjee also gave me a letter to allow me to stay in NRTI (Natural Resource Training Institute) guesthouse, which comes under Wangdue Province, and that was my next stop after Thimphu. The same night, at 8pm; my story appeared on television, so I was successful in delivering my message all over Bhutan.


Thimphu in short

Also spelled THIMBU, capital of Bhutan. The city, situated in the west-central part of the country, is in the Himalaya Mountains on the Raidak (also called Thimphu, or Wong) River at about 7,000 feet (2,000 m) above sea level. It was designated the official seat of government in 1962 (formerly the seat was wherever the king resided), and a large construction program was undertaken with Indian aid. Tashi Chho dzong (fortress, or castle), the traditional fortified monastery that has been remodeled and extended to house the offices of the royal government, is one of the finest specimens of traditional Bhutanese architecture. Terraced fields around the royal palace indicate the high priority given to agriculture. The principal crops in the area are rice, corn (maize), and wheat. Lumbering is also important, and there is a saw mill in the city. A hydroelectric power plant began operation in 1966. The city has an airplane landing strip, and the Indo-Bhutan National Highway (opened 1968) connects the capital to Phuntsholing, the principal gateway into Bhutan from India. _


Moving out of Thimphu

The following morning, after spending almost a week in the city of clouds, it was time to say goodbye. I moved towards NRTI (Lobessa), which comes under Wangdue province, and was around 70 kilometres from Thimphu. It was very fresh, and a good morning for me. People walking on the street were looking at me and waving their hands. A few schoolboys and schoolgirls came and shook my hand, and some people showed me their thumb, to indicate their best wishes. On the way, I bought the national newspaper 'Kuencel' for Nu.8. There was my story on the front page, but it was a very small story which hardly conveyed my message. Later on, there were hills and lots of trees, but the road was very busy with cars, buses, and trucks. People, mostly in cars, showed their hands to wish me luck for my journey, and that was an encouragement. After around fifteen kilometres, I reached the checkpost. It was the indication point of the restricted area. The officers enquired and checked my permit. I convinced them that I was on a study tour and would get into any vehicle after a few kilometres of walking. Of course, it was not easy to convince them. The place was uninhabited for miles and the road was through the forest, and diverts from Thimphu after ten kilometres. At the beginning of the restricted area you hardly get to see any Vehicles. It was just eleven o'clock. When I started, I realized this was a scary place. The forest was very thick and I was a little scared because the security officers had told me of robberies that had taken place here. I continued my walk, and met few villagers on the way, so mostly it was a lonely and frightening walk. Finally I hitch-hiked until I came out of the danger zone and I got down twenty kilometres before Lobesa. I had those tasty noodles packets, fruits and bread for the day long walk. Before moving ahead I had noodles and fruits with bread. Moving ahead for twenty kilometres was not a problem due to few villagers’ presence in between.


NRTI

I reached Lobesa a village near NRTI and NRTI was 3-4 kilometres from the village. This was little developed village. I met the Director, who was already informed of my coming by Mr Dorjee, and gave him the letter. The guestroom was ready - I had to bear only food expenses. There was a maid who was staying nearby, and it was a hotel-cum-home. They decided I should eat at the maid's house. She had two sweet daughters, who called me 'brother'. One was studying in tenth class and the other was in the 7th. They were basically Nepali and had been settled there for two generations, but were still vegetarian. This institute was situated on top of the hill and one could enjoy the real beauty of nature. You could see the river, and either side of the river were many farming fields. This was my 19th day; I gave a speech to the NTRI students. Most of the students and teachers were aware of my expedition through the television and newspaper. It was Sunday everyone was enjoying their holiday, so they spent almost two hours with me. I made few friends with a few of the students very quickly and we played table tennis.


The Bhutan Princess

There was an Environmental workshop for the next two days, that is, on the 4th and 5th July organized by the NRTI and supported by NEC/UNDP and the greenhouse gas project. More than 200 education officers and teachers were present for the workshop, and were from eight different districts of western Bhutan. From the gate to the dais of the Auditorium there was a red carpet with flowers strewn on it. The princess' car came, and everyone gathered near the gate. I got the opportunity to see her. Actually, there were three princesses, and all were very beautiful. The inauguration was done by the elder princess, and there were many dignitaries present, such as the Environment Minister and the programme officer of UNDP and the greenhouse gas project. There were many formalities according to their tradition, and it is time consuming. Even after entering into the Auditorium, a long process goes on to show respect to the Princess and other dignitaries.

A big pot was in the middle, in which there was some liquid. A monk came with a bowl in another pot, and distributed its contents to all the delegations present in the auditorium, but before that there were prayers and speeches. After that another monk came to the pot in which was the liquid. He shook and raised and lowered the liquid many times whilst uttering some words or mantra. First it is served to the Princess, and then given to everyone else. Then the show began, starting at 10:00am; and ending at 2:00pm. After lunch there was a traditional dance in which everyone participated - even the three princesses, the Environment Minister, and the people from the UNDP and greenhouse gas project. By 4:00pm; the inauguration party was over. All the important personalities including princess left the NRTI campus. The programme continued with speeches by speakers in the Zonkha language (which I did not understand). One of the organizers asked me to give a speech at one pm; the next day. In the evening I enjoyed playing badminton and table tennis.

This day, the twentieth day, I found I had become well-known to the teachers and their families. I gave my speech in the auditorium, the first time in Bhutan that I had given a speech to nearly 200 officials. They seemed very much impressed, and after my speech, there was a lunch break; during lunch, many people gathered around me and asked about my expedition. I was also invited for dinner to a young teacher's place, and came to know he has represented Bhutan in Tae Kwan Do in the Asian Games, and gained the award for Best Fighter. I spent the whole evening with him, had a very nice dinner which he cooked. I also watched a movie and slept at his house.


Tsirang (Damphu)

The next day, I moved on. I planned to reach Tsirang (Damphu), some ninety kilometres from

Lobessa. It was a lonely walk. It was rare to find people and vehicles because of rain and landslides, so it was a little frightening, but a beautiful area to walk through. I was making my way through the mountains, and could hardly see any houses or even a hut. But I saw only for or five vehicles before noon. Around 4pm; I managed to stop a vehicle, and asked the driver to drop me at Damphu. At first he was scared, but then he allowed me to get on board. But when I leaned down to open my rucksack, he stopped the car, obviously scared. I took out my photograph album, and only after looking at the pictures he seemed relieved and started being friendly. Damphu was another cold place in Bhutan. It is situated on the top of a mountain and is like a hill station, not a city or a town. I got off at Damphu, where there was a Telephone Office. I met an Engineer - Mr Sangpo - explained to him that I needed somewhere to stay, and told him that I would pay for it. He was very young, around my age, and was very impressed when I showed him the newspaper clippings and photograph album. After many phone calls, he succeeded in getting me a place to stay in a school - Damphu High School - and took me there. This school, and the whole village, was situated on a hill. The principal was waiting for me when we arrived. He had already spoken to an Indian teacher, Mr Kenny Raj Peter, who was staying alone in the teacher's quarters, and was from Madhyapradesh. The principal introduced me to him, and I thanked Mr Sangpo and the principal. Mr Peter was a young and interesting person. He stays alone, and is happy. I gave him detailed information about myself while we prepared dinner - the first time on my trip that I had helped prepare the meal. The following day, I was given a place to stay in the school, and knew there would be no problem with me talking to the students. I had breakfast with Mr Peter, then walked with him to the school. It was very big and the strength of the students was also high in number. During assembly time, Mr Peter introduced me to the students, and I was given enough time to talk to them. After the speech, more students gathered, shook my hand, and wished me well. Many of them were interested in my photographs and my expedition. Mr Peter introduced me to an actress who was working in the same school, which seemed strange. But I saw many posters of her current movie in Thimphu and many other places. When I asked about her movie, she told me it was a hit all over Bhutan. I spent a lot of time with her and her child. In the evening, Mr Peter took me to the Markets and introduced me to everyone, asking: 'did you read about him in Kuensel?'

He bought four bottles of beer and told me we were going to have a party in the actress' house. The dinner was ready when we arrived, and we dined with the actress and her husband. But I was shocked when the actress had a glass of beer, although later her husband told me that in Bhutan almost each female drinks beer as a soft drink, and his wife could finish two full bottles, which shocked me again, because I cannot drink more than two glasses of beer. We had a nice meal; it was the first time in Bhutan I tasted the food of high-class people, which is, of course, different to the food at the hotel.


Scorpion bite

The following day I packed my rucksack and got everything ready to move to the next destination. I was putting on my shoes when I was stung on the big toe by a large scorpion. I screamed. Mr Peter came running, and I eventually received serum to counteract the poison. I've never seen anything quite so horrifying as that scorpion. I should have realized that I was up in the mountains now, and the creatures here were much larger. My idea was of something about the size of a large beetle, but this brute was as big as an adult mouse! I've decided that even the fattest and hairiest spider would be companionable in comparison. The whole day was spent nursing my foot with Brahms to soothe the nerves. The actress took good care of me and prepared very good Bhutia food for me with lots of vegetables and meat. I was really very lucky that I was with very good, kind, and caring people. They all did a lot for me; Mr Peter took care of me as if I were his brother. But life was becoming dangerous! On the first day, I was hardly out of bed. Even a hornet stung me on the neck but evidently the scorpion serum was still working, as there were no ill effects from the immediate sting. The second day, I felt a little better, but was still in a lot of pain. When I decided to move on again on the third day, the local doctor forced me to spend one more day in bed to see to any ill effects. And Mr Peter was not ready to leave me; although I did not want to, I ended up spending another day there.

That following day, Mr Peter got up much earlier than me. He kept maize for cooking. I carried four pieces, he prepared butter too. I had bread-and butter with egg omelette and a glass of milk at another teachers place later, and that family was also Indian. By the next day, I was like a part of everyone's family. Every day, one or another teacher used to call for lunch and dinner. I was most obliged to all of them, and at my time of leaving, I met all their families and thanked them all, as well as Mr Peter for doing so much for me.


Sarpang

At last, after a lot of rest - thanks to that scorpion - I moved on to the next destination, which was Sarpang. I got the details of a major Passang who could help me in Sarpang (he was the father of one of the students of Damphu High School). And, I began my walk, but I had not gone a kilometre before a policeman stopped me. It was raining, and during rain, I used to cover my rucksack with my raincoat, and for my protection, my favourite umbrella was with me. The policeman asked me 'What is in this bag, and where are you going?' I explained to him and requested him to leave me. But he was not ready to leave until he had checked my bag and travel permit, so I had to take out the permit and show him an album of photographs. The photographs always seemed to work: once people had seen them, everything was alright. This policeman also allowed me to go on. Today's walk was again a dangerous one. Thick forest, not habitation, and the road was through mountains that were tilted a little, so while walking, I could see the top portion of the hill exactly on a level with my head. In many places in Bhutan, I have crossed the landslide sites, and on this route I crossed a few more. The atmosphere was not only foggy with heavy rain and wind, but also noisy because of waterfalls. Whether, because of the peculiar configuration of the mountains, or because of a manifestation of the freakish weather, this wind blew with a force such as I had never previously encountered. Sometimes it was so fierce, that I stopped. But all the time I prayed, and called on my mother and God to help me and to save me from such dangerous places. One thing was good: I met a few people after an hour or more on this lonely route, but no one troubled me. I would like to highlight a thrilling experience on this route: if anyone thinks walking is a bed of roses, then think again - I had to encounter a 150 foot waterfall, which blocked my path. There were many turns as the road was through the hills. I came across a waterfall that was falling exactly on the road, meaning it was covering the entire road, and on the other side was a deep valley. I did not dare try to cross it, so I decided to stop and get the help of a vehicle. I waited for more than half an hour, but no vehicle did I see. I was scared, standing in this cold, rainy, and dangerous place. Suddenly I saw a young schoolgirl of around 16-17 years of age pass through the waterfall by holding her umbrella tightly - and she made it. I still felt scared, but when I saw that girl's courage, I said to myself 'I am on an adventure - if this girl can cross the waterfall, why can't I?'.

So I held my breath, called on my mother, and crossed the waterfall the same way, by holding my umbrella tightly. I was very happy after my successful crossing, but I lost my jacket, which had fallen because of the force of the waterfall, and my rucksack got wet. It was just three o'clock, but because of the thick forest, it seemed like the evening. There was no village or place nearby where I could have taken stop, so I decided to hitchhike. It was really difficult trying to get a ride on this route. First, you don't get to see any vehicle for at least half an hour, and if it does not stop then you have to wait again. After trying for an hour, I got a ride. I reached Sarpang in the evening and went to the Army camp. When I was allowed to go inside, I saw many officers were playing football - even Major Passang was playing. I met him, and gave him the reference of his son studying in Damphu. Major Passang listened to me, looked at my file and photographs, and then called a soldier. He asked him to put me in the Sarpang hotel - that was the only one in Sarpang. I got a nice room, and when I emptied my rucksack, found everything was wet, so I put it all aside for drying. At night, Major Passang came to see me. He was really a charming and kind man. He made me laugh many times whilst I had a beer with him. I learned that his wife is n aunt of the King, and spent a good time with him. He left me alone for dinner, which was a good meal, and then I had a painkiller and some medicine given me by the local doctor. If I had moved on one day earlier, I would definitely have felt the weakness, and with the scorpion bite, it would not have been a good idea. That one day extra rest made me strong, and I was not otherwise tired.


Gelephu

I did not feel so well the next day, and thought of spending another day in Sarpang; but the problem was that my permit had expired three days before. However, Major Passang said he would fix it, so I could still move that day, reach Gelephu and rest at the border. I packed my rucksack and started walking towards Gelephu. Being Saturday, I thought of visiting Sarpang Junior School, as it was on my way. I met the principal and got permission to deliver my speech, and I enjoyed delivering it. The principal was nice, and asked me not to take risks on this route as it is full of terrorism from Gelephu to Guwahati. Gelephu was just thirty kilometres, the road good with no more hills, but a plain surface. It was sunny and the weather was very good. But I might have travelled just fifteen kilometres when I saw the road was blocked with water. There was a river, but it took a diversion because of its force, and the road got washed away. A few vehicles tried to cross the damaged road and got stuck. There was a bus standing on the other side of the road. Many people came out and tried to help unstuck the car, but the more they were trying, the more deep the car was going. Almost half the body of the car was below the water now. I watched for half an hour, and then crossed the river with difficulty. I got the company of a young man who was inspired and was going to Gelephu. He said 'It's good I can walk with you till Gelephu'. But at noon, rain started again, heavily. I did not have any jacket now to protect my rucksack from rain, but I had a big plastic sheet that I used. All the same, I was feeling uneasy and really not able to walk. I requested the young man to help me, so we waited under a tree until a jeep came along that was going to Gelephu - just fifteen kilometres away now.

In Gelephu, I contacted Mr M C Agarwal (a reference given me by the Second Secretary of the Indian Embassy, Thimphu. Even Mr Jacob had called ahead of me, and asked Mr Agarwal to take care of me. First I told him about the scorpion bite, and said I would like to take a rest. He ran a clothing shop in this border town, and had read my news in the paper also. He asked his son, Chetan, to put me in a hotel. By now, I was feeling weak and not like eating at all. I saw the doctor, and he suggested taking a rest for a week at least.

During that time I had fruits mostly. Mr Agarwal and his family all helped me out. I could not forget those four extra days I spent in Gelephu. I thought that later I could spend the rest of the time in the nearest town. This was now the 26 July, so it meant I had spent almost thirty six days in Bhutan.


About Bhutan

Bhutan is a small, developing, independent country in south-central Asia. It lies in the eastern Himalaya between India and Tibet. It is a rugged mountainous country with great extremes of climate. Thick forests grow on the rain-drenched southern slopes of the mountains. It is extremely hot in the low foothill regions and extremely cold in the Great Himalaya, but in the mid-Himalaya regions the climate is moderate. Almost all Bhutanese are hardy mountaineers who farm and raise stock. They live in isolated valleys, cut off from one another by mountains. Bhutan had little contact with the rest of the world until the late 1950's. Little is known of Bhutan's early history.

In the 800's, Tibetan invaders conquered the Bhutia Tephoo - the country's original inhabitants - and settled in Bhutan. By the early 1500's descendants of the Tibetan invaders controlled Bhutan from a number of large dzongs located in the mid-Himalaya region. In the early 1600's, Bhutan became a separate state when a Tibetan lama took power as ruler of both religious and state affairs. In 1907, Ugyen Wangohuk, a powerful penlop (territorial lord) was chosen to administer the government. He made himself Bhutan's first king and gave the country its first effective central government.

In the 1700's and 1800's, the Bhutanese raided Sikkim and part of what was then British India. These raids caused United Kingdom to take control of some of Bhutan's foreign affairs. In 1910, the British Indian government took full control of Bhutanese foreign relations, but did not interfere with Bhutan's internal government,

In 1949, India agreed to handle Bhutan's foreign affairs and to help develop its economy, and later assumed responsibility for the defence of Bhutan. But Bhutan remained isolated from the rest of the world until 1959, when China claimed part of the country. Bhutan then strengthened its ties to India and began programmes to modernize its economy, educational system, and public health facilities.

The population is approximately 1 million. Bhutan's to largest ethnic groups, the Sharchops and the Ngalops, make up more than half of the population. The Ngalops are descendants of Tibetan settlers. The Sharchops' origin is uncertain, but they may have come from Tibet long ago. The two groups are known together as the Bhotes or Bhutias. About a quarter of Bhutan's people are Nepalese. Several languages are spoken in Bhutan. Dzongkha, a Tibetan dialect, is the official language. The Sharchops and the Ngalops practise Buddhism, Bhutan's official religion. About 4500 lamas in Bhutan belong to the Red Hat Order of Lamas. They perform Buddhist rituals, treat illnesses, and teach sacred doctrine. They live in fortified monasteries called dzongs, which have chapels, offices, and teaching centres. Most Bhutan's Nepalese practice Hinduism. Bhutans Hindus live in compact villages along the Indian border. They build rectangular houses of mud blocks and stones, and build on high ground for protection against floods, wild animals, and snakes. People in the small villages of the mid-Himalayan valleys live in houses of oblong stone blocks that have pine-shingle roofs. The family lives upstairs and uses the ground floor as a barn. In the high, northern mountain valleys, people live in small villages surrounded by stone walls. People of Tibetan descent wear a long, loose coat made from a coloured blanket. This is gathered round the waits and hangs to the knees.

About 90 percent of the people 15 years of age and older cannot read and write. About a quarter of the children between the ages of 7 and 12 attend school. Government of Bhutan is a hereditary (inherited) monarchy headed by a powerful king, who appoints an advisory council to assist him. He also appoints a quarter of the 130-member Tsongdu (national assembly). Village headmen elect about three-quarters of the Tsongdu, with some members representing powerful Buddhist monasteries. The assembly's chief duty is to advise the king. Tsongdu members serve five-year terms. A dzongtap or zongda (district officer) is responsible for law and order in each of Bhutan's 15 administrative divisions. Families in each village elect a headman to a three-year term. Bhutan has no legal political parties.

The currency of Bhutan is ngultrum, fixed at par with the Indian rupee, which is also legal tender (1us$=43.50).

The Bhutanese flag is square in shape and divided diagonally into yellow and orange halves. A white dragon in the centre has a jewel in each claw.


Back in India

Guwahati

I came out of the town and got onto the highway. Along the way I had some fruits given by aunty. I reached a Military check post at a place in the afternoon. They behaved very strict, and asked me to take everything out of the rucksack. First I showed them photographs and my file (as well as the letter of Ministry of External affairs) but even then the officer asked me to take everything out of the rucksack. There was no alternative. I took out everything and the Officer asked his guards to check. When he found me genuine he asked me to wait and go by bus. I said my expedition does not allow me to travel by bus or train; I have no money to be spent on transportation. So he said ok we will put you in a truck. Raining also started, one of the guards stopped a truck, explained the situation to the driver, and asked him to drop me in Guwahati. I reached Guwahati in the evening. I had the address of one of the Rotaract member, but I could not find him there, but came to know from his brother that he was in the Rotary Bhavan (hall). I got the address and visited Rotary Bhavan. The meeting was about to finish, but then on request, I got the opportunity to speak. When I explained about the expedition and purpose of visiting Rotary club, the members started their work. I had been told that I would be staying with one of the Rotaract members. I purposely did not want to write this Rotaractor's name - you will come to know the reason behind it later as you go on reading. His mother and sister were out of station so I got placed at his residence. He was always quiet. He didn't prepare anything for dinner though I offered help for cooking. He had very little food left, which he cooked in the afternoon. He refused to take any help, but for me, with that little food was not possible, the situation was I could not go out and have dinner. I was highly obliged towards him for providing accommodation but for the sake of accommodation I was not ready to compromise with food. This food gave me strength to walk and covered so many countries. I was hungry that night but slept with half empty stomach.

Early morning I got ready to move Central School, which was near to the house of the Rotaractor. I told him that I would go to the Central School but before that I had a heavy breakfast in the nearest hotel. When I tried to contact the principal, I found out that he was busy, because the Deputy Commissioner was supposed to visit the school. I told a teacher that I would come later. I went to WWF office and met Senior Project Officer Mr. Avijit Roy and the director Mr. Goswami. These people also responded as usual. I was supposed to go to the News Paper office of the SENTINAL and The Telegraph but the WWF director called the reporter in the office itself. Within half an hour both reporters came, interviewed me, and took some photographs. I got a cap, T-shirt, few stickers and posters from this WWF office. In the evening I went to a Rotary Club meeting of Guwahati south, and delivered the speech in the meeting. I came back to the house. There were a few of his friends there, and I spent some time with them. I found this Rotaractor was not at all interested in me, and was careless about my food. I had lunch and dinner out, just for the sake of knowing him well I did not informed him about the lunch and dinner. I was full but was waiting for his reaction. I found he was still to take the dinner but he did not asked me until I go to bed. I was thankful that at least he accommodated me in his house. It was the last day of the month of July and I was happy to cross almost eight months with four countries including India. Today I visited Central School again and faced similar difficulty, which I faced many times, but by now I knew how to tackle this difficulty. The principal thought I would ask for money after my speech. I convinced him I wouldn't, and he asked me to wait for an hour. He made the best arrangements in the auditorium. it was so big that 1000 students could be accommodated easily. There were thousand students gathered in auditorium. I delivered the speech to all the school students. I got to surf Internet after long time and found mails from Steve and many others. I e-mailed my expedition program to the offices of WWF in Thailand, Laos and Vietnam with the reference of Steven Drayton (WWF- International, Switzerland) who was keeping eye on my expedition and was helping me from Switzerland. I requested these offices to help me with the Visa part. This was very much early to have sent e-mails and request for their support. I had planned very well and approached earlier just for one reason that these offices would get time to arrange.

Fourth day in Guwahati

Today reporter of The Telegraph News Paper Mr. Anupam Nath came at 11a.m. and took many photographs. In the evening, I joined a meeting of the Rotaract Club of Guwahati west. I shared my experiences with all the members and spent time till 8 p.m. This club has taken a project for the Kargil Fund. (During the Kargil war many soldiers sacrificed their life against Pakistan. And many Indians, organisations, associations were donating in this fund created by Govt. of India) They were going to call Ayesha Julka, Rajesh Khanna and few other stars of Film Industry. I wished them good luck and came back to the Rotaractors house. I had fruits and got enough calories, keeping in mind that I would get less than half of my regular diet. I could have taken dinner out side as I did the last two days but thinking that this member may mind (possibility was nil) for not having food at his house so just for the sake of formality I had food with him which was ………. I packed my rucksack after dinner and slept. This is just an observation about the people and their nature whom I met during the expedition. I wrote about many nice people and few like him. This boy was around 21 years old. He was the first person I met in my expedition whom I didn't like. He was so doubtful about me he never left me alone in his house whereas all the previous places wherever I stayed, I spent time alone many a times, and no one was staying behind to keep watch. There was faith and everyone used to believe. Most of the time I traveled on foot in the city to visit schools and other places. Whenever I thought of taking rest either he used to go out or he used to ask me to come with him. Two days I had dinner late at night but never before 11 p.m. I never had breakfast and lunch in his house, always in the hotels, I realised that he was not happy to give dinner too. His father was very nice and kind. Once, this boy served a little food, that's all. I never got food second time unless his father forced him. I felt ashamed to ask him for food so I did not. I stayed 3 days and four nights with him. I had two dinners but never got enough food. I thanked that Rotaractor before moving out.

Jorbata

Today I moved out of Guwahati. On the way I found an Internet café, checked my mails and was very happy: there was an email from David of WWF-Vietnam. It stated that WWF-Vietnam would help and even he asked me if I needed any help in Cambodia. I replied and said, "Yes I would require help for Cambodia too." After getting good news, there was no limit to my joy. In the evening I reached Jorbata it was a small village on the highway and I doubt if there was any hotel. I visited the Police station and explained them and requested them to help me find a place for the stay at night. These police were very good. They accommodated me in their staff room. They were very excited to know more about my expedition and did not leave me alone. There were few officers there, but they spent lot of time looking at my photographs and enquiring about the expedition. I had dinner in their mess and slept at 10.00

Meghalaya State

I moved in the early morning after thanking all the staffs. The Meghalaya state border was not very far. When I was having breakfast I came to know that everything in Meghalaya state was closed. One of the students Federation had called this "Bandh" (it's a Hindi word; it means closed similar to strike). I might have walked just 15 Km, and I got Byrnihat Police Station. These police asked me to stop till 4 O'clock because of Bandh. Everything was closed, not even a single vehicle was running on the road. Police told me that just 1 km ahead there were students sitting on the road to stop vehicles. But when I told them that I would go on foot, they said in strikes the people have violence tendency, they would beat, snatch the bag and other important material from me. I had food with the Police and in the evening they stopped a vehicle and asked me to seat, the vehicle was going to Shilong. I got down there at 8.30 p.m. in front of Civil Hospital. The whole road was empty, dark and scary.

First I didn't know where to go. I had the phone number of Rotaractor Swaroop Choudhary - he was aware that I would be coming to Shilong (given by Rotaractor Sujay from Guwahati). I searched for a telephone booth to call him but there was none. When I walked little ahead in the dark found two persons were keeping eye on me. I think I have the power to read people's faces. I immediately turned back as I smelled danger if I carry on in the dark. I went to the Civil Hospital and requested the sister at reception to allow me to call. First she refused, but when I explained to her in what the problem was, she allowed me. I called up and told Rotaractor Swaroop that I got stuck in Civil Hospital. He replied 'do not go anywhere, I am coming'. With in 15 minutes I saw Rotaractor Swaroop and Rotaractor Vineet in the hospital. Rotaractor Swaroop told me that I would be staying with him. His mother had prepared food for both of us. Mean while I took bath and had dinner with Swaroop. His house was situated on one of the hills. Many houses are on the hills there. I spent a day extra in Shilong to visiting few schools. At first few Rotaract members and me went to St. Antony's High School during the assembly time, but could not reach in time. We were late by 10 minutes as earlier the principal asked us to reach before the assembly starts. These Rotaractors had very good relations with the principal hence he allowed me to speak, but only for 10 minutes, at 1 p.m. We agreed, something was better than nothing. Along with Swaroop there were few more Rotaractors. Later we moved to the girls school, St. Margaret's High School. We spoke to the Principal and our good luck - they were going to have a function. Initially due to the function, the principal denied me but later after forcing and requesting a lot she agreed and said, “Only for 10 minutes”. All students gathered at the assembly ground in the school premises. I started my talk without wasting much time in introduction. When I completed 10 minutes, I was about to conclude saying, “Due to time constraint I won't be able to talk much” and looked at the principal, she realized the importance of my talk and the trouble taken to reach out to the students. She asked me to carry on. Then I talked for 15 minutes more. At the end the Principal, herself, was motivated, she could see the motivated faces of the children. She was very appreciative, as were the Rotaractors. At Noon 1.00 p.m. we went to St. Anthanese High School and delivered the speech. The day was good, today when I checked my mails on the Internet; I got confirmation from David (WWF-Vietnam) that he would help me getting the visa. We all had lunch and then went to Police Bazar, where most of the Rotaractors and Rotarians have their business. It is the main market of Shilong. We contacted one of the Rotarian, who asked us to come in the evening for the meeting. In the meeting I got financial support from the Rotary Club of Shilong. There was a party at one of the Rotaractors house; his name was Piyush. We had a very good dinner there. The Rotaractor here had a very nice understanding. First night I stayed with Swaroop now the second night I would spend with Amit Shah. Rotaractor Amit & I reached his house at 10.30 where he introduced me to his family, we both were tired for whole days work but I spend some time with his family members. He had a younger brother and a younger sister. They all saw my photographs, Amit explained his experience in the school and gave a brief about the expedition. In each house I got very special treatment. The Rotaractors and their Parents used to take lot of care. Aunty prepared bed for both of us and we slept at 11.30p.m.

The third day in Shilong was also good for me. First I visited the News Paper office of Shilong Times. One of the Rotary Club members was the chief editor of this News Paper. I provided all the details and photographs to him. I bought yesterday's "The Assam Tribune" and "The Telegraph". There was news about me in both these News Papers.

On the way to Bangladesh

All the members gathered at Amit’s house early morning for see off, I thanked them all for their support and said, “I am not alone participant in this expedition, you all are contributing to make this expedition successful.” Amit’s mother gave me heavy breakfast and I moved towards Dawki, which comes 60 km. This 60 km you won't get to see any habitation (houses/people) because the road goes through the Mountains and thick forest. Part of Cherapunji (where the stormy rainfall occurs in the world) also comes on the way. The whole eastern region was declared by the govt. as terrorist region. Everywhere in the eastern India I was told by the well wishers that I should not walk. I was not able digest it, I kept on taking risks at least for few km and then hitchhike. Without risk, how would I be getting dangerous experiences and how would I be justifying my walk. I used to listen to everyone and move on, today also I did the same, I knew God helps them those who helps themselves. I took risk many times where I was confident. I knew at least for first few km I do not have any problem and en-route I would definitely get vehicles. I continued and once I came out of the town and would have walked maximum approx 10-12 km, I realized why every one says no to walk. The road was through the thick forest with high mountain range. Natural beauty – amazing but people make this world a dirty place. If there had been no terrorism, this part would have had more number of tourists. I continued with a very slow speed and simultaneously was looking for a vehicle too. I saw two vehicles coming from opposite direction; one of them stopped and asked where I wanted to go? I replied, “Dawki”, they were concerned and told me not to walk ahead, wait for the vehicle. This conversation made impact on my confidence, I was now really scared, though I was able to see the part of the town from this end. I just waited, waited for more than half an hour. I saw a bus coming; I was surprised to see the bus slowed down the speed and stopped, where I was standing, before I could show my hand to stop. When asked, the driver told me that the vehicle just passed had informed us about you. They also told me that if the driver of the other vehicle would not have told them about me, they would not have stopped due to terrorist activity. Who knows you are not a terrorist. We do not take passengers alone or in group in the lonely places. When I saw the route from Shilong to Dawki, realized it would be difficult to walk through such non inhabitant place. In the evening I reached Dawki. Here I wanted to search someone, whom I could trust, and who would guide me about Bangladesh.

I saw a Jeep of BSF (Border Security Force); luckily the Company Commander was sitting in the Jeep. I explained him and told him that I am a little scared of this region and asked him to help me. There was a guesthouse of PWD (Public Works Division), and he asked me to walk down to it. He arranged a room for me and asked me to be ready at 9 p.m. for dinner at his place. The room was very good. I took bath and got ready. At 9 O'clock 2 Jawans (Soldiers) picked me up and dropped me at Company Commanders Bungalow (House). When he saw the photographs and file, he praised me a lot and told me many things about Bangladesh such as what I should and shouldn't do. I spent a lot of time discussing the route and safety. We had dinner together. The 2 Jawans (Soldiers) dropped me back to the guesthouse at 11p.m.


BANGLADESH


Entry

It was 6th of August 1999. Another great day in my life, I would enter the fifth country of my expedition. My plan was to move at 6 a.m., which is early in the morning but found both Immigration Offices open at 10 O'clock. I was very excited and happy. I had breakfast and waited for the office to open. I got custom clearance and crossed the border at 10.45 a.m. I saw the company commander on the border and he wished me and told the other side (Bangladesh) officers not to trouble me. It felt different entering a new country. I would now be returning to India after one year and two months. It was a really different feeling. I visited the Bangladesh Immigration office and got the clearance at 12 in the afternoon. I did not have any Bangladesh Currency with me, but still I walked ahead. I wanted to reach SYLHET today, which was 55 Km from the border. I had some food at the border and started walking ahead. I walked for few around 20 km and tried to get hitchhike but I found no one would stop. Finally one vehicle stopped and asked me in Bengali, “Kothai Jabe?” (Where you want to go?) I replied, “Hindi aata hai?” (Do you know Hindi?) When he found I am not a local man, he started in Hindi, at first I explained and requested him to drop me at Sylhet, which I knew couldn't be covered by the evening, it was 30 km more from that point. He asked me for money, most of the part ahead was inhabitant; it was better to cross the dangerous inhabitant by that vehicle, rather than walking. so I agreed and paid Indian Rs. 20 and told him to drop me after 25 km. I got down after 25 km and found habitant place and there was no danger to walk on this route. I got to see people, houses and hotels too. I stopped at a place for some snacks in the evening, where the owner cheated me because of language problem. First, when I enquired about the exchange rate from Rupees to Taka he said for 100 rupees it is 150 Taka. However, after snacks he calculated it as 100 Rupees for 105 Taka. I did not have any choice but to accept it to pay for the food. In the evening I reached Sylhet

Sylhet originally known as SRIHATTA, the city is situated North-eastern Bangladesh. It lies along the right bank of the Surma River. The most important town in the Surma River valley, it is connected by road and rail with Comilla, Chhatak, and Habiganj, by road with Assam and Meghalaya, India, and by air with Dhaka. Sylhet is known for its cane products and also produces tea, matches, and vegetable oil. There are also several handicraft cottage industries. Tea estates southeast of Sylhet provide most of Bangladesh's yield.

Constituted a municipality in 1878, Sylhet houses a medical college and several government colleges affiliated with the University of Chittagong. It was the capital of the 14th-century raja Gaur Gobind and later served as a Muslim cultural centre. Historic sites include the Shah Jalal Mosque and the tombs of several Muslim saints.

I visited Rotarian M. A. Mannan's office in Hotel Meherpur (Ref. given by one of the Rotary Club Member from R/C of Shilong Mr. Jitlani). The office was closed, as Friday is a national holiday in Bangladesh. I phoned him and explained the purpose of visit. He accommodated me in the same hotel and asked me to see him at the Rotary Club meeting, which would hold that same evening. Bangladesh is half an hour fast so it was 7 p.m. by the time I get a room. After getting in to a room, I took bath and got ready, at the same somebody knocked on the door. Rotarian Mannan has sent an office boy to take me to the meeting. The boy was foolish, who took me to the wrong place due to which I missed the meeting.

Schools

After breakfast, I moved with the office boy to the British-Bangladesh International School. I contacted the principal and he asked me to come at 11.15. While returning back, I met a person named Mr. Akhlak, who was in the hotel yesterday. He was there when the hotel staffs were enquiring about the expedition. I found many people generate curiosity to know more about the expedition. They feel proud to take me along and introduce to their family and friends. They always wanted to do some favour for me. This boy was also very much influenced and wanted me to go to his house. I had time, so I moved with him. He proudly introduced me to his family members. He took me to the Famous Shrine (Shah Jalaluddin Mazar). I went inside and prayed on behalf of all the people, who supported me. When he dropped me back to the hotel, Mr. Mannan was there. When he learned about involvement of the Rotaract Club in my expedition, he called a few Rotaract members. At 11 O'clock, I moved with the Rotaractors to the British-Bangladesh International School. Unfortunately, the principal asked me again to come the next day at 8.20. I got angry because people like him do not understand the value of time. I would have contacted few more schools if he had not called me at 11.15. However I kept my patience and said, "ok". We visited Rotarian Mazurul Haq Chowdhary and got a detailed and easy route to go to DHAKA. He told us about a tree plantation programme during a function at one of the girls’ school and one of the Rotarian Ataur Rahman has gone there, he asked us if we wanted to go there? We replied. “Yes” and moved to Bengali Medium School, the Rotaract members introduced me to Rotarian Ataur Rahman and requested for the permission to speak with the students. Rotarian Ataur Rahman had translated my speech; I also got an opportunity to plant a tree in the school premises. Later, we went to Rotaractor Rohan's house for lunch. After lunch Rotaractor Maruf took me to the Newspaper office, where reporter was not in the office. We ran behind the reporter, but he was very busy. Thereby, I gave him my details with two photographs. I had dinner and came back in the hotel. I was out visiting the members’ houses and slept at 12.

Investigation

Today I experienced a very bad incident in Sylhet, Bangladesh. I met many foolish people en-route; few of them were in Sylhet. Early morning, Rotaractor Shaukat, who was very nice boy and was interested in helping me for all my programmes in Sylhet, and I, both we visited Khajanchibari International School. We had to take permission from the President, which we did and got it for five minutes only. I can not describe, what kind of man he was, he was there to listen and interrupted me exactly after five minutes. How much I was able to pass on to the students was nothing. Still I stretched it for 3 more minutes. This was one incident.

After this school, we went to British-Bangladesh International School. The principal was not there, but the vice principal allowed me to talk. After the speech, the principal (who came later) and director asked me to come to their office. Suddenly I found the director of the school has become strict and started enquiry as if he is a Policeman. He asked for the passport, before that I showed him my file, looking at which any layman would get the proof of genuineness but no impact. Then I showed him my passport, once he got the passport in his hand, he started behaving rude and arrogantly with us, Shaukat, the poor fellow was scared, he tried to explain by giving reference of Rotary and Rotaract. He also asked the director to give a call to Rotarian Mannan but the director himself was thinking very smart. I knew nothing is going to happen but it was just waste of time. He informed the Police immediately. The stupid director was unnecessary creating problems and was wasting time. After sometime one officer came from Intelligence Bureau. He took my Passport, checked my file and asked us to go with him to his office. Rotaractor Shaukat was with me, I was only worried about his condition. I cursed on the School Director for troubling us. We were at the school for about two hours and later in the IB office. The IB officer was also a stupid man, agreed, that their job is to check the problems but the person working for Intelligence Bureau should have given a thought of other three countries that I crossed. In the IB office he took down a few Rotary Club Members name, addresses and phone numbers. He made us sit in the office for almost two hours without any work, I think they just wanted to show us that we have done a very big offence and these officers are investigating it. Finally the officer gave me my passport and told us to go.

I wasted more than four hours and could not visit any more schools. Rotarian Mannan was already informed about the investigation incident. Later I came to know that he fired the school director. In the evening, we went to the Interact Club's function and delivered the speech. I had dinner at 11 O'clock. The food was different and was mainly consisting of rice, which is not the same rice you get in India. It was known as boiled (a bigger size than the normal) rice. However, the food was cheap. I packed my rucksack and slept at 12.

Moulvi Bazar

Early in the morning, I moved out towards Moulvi Bazar. It was around 70 Km and I was spending enough money for food. I had a heavy breakfast and fruits on the way. Everyone used to say something in Bengali Language, but I used to repeat only one sentence i.e. "Bangla jaani na" (I do not understand Bengali) I could understand a little, but then these people use to ask many questions and enquire a lot about me. I realized that I should not talk much to these people, since that took a lot of my time. After walking for around 35 Km, I hitchhiked till Moulvi Bazar. It was 7 p.m. when I reached. I had the address of Rotarian Dr. Manowar Ahmed Tarpadar. I went to his clinic and explained to him my journey. He called Rotarian Haq in Sylhet and enquired about me. He got the confirmation, so he called one of the Rotaractor who took me at the meeting venue. I delivered my speech to five Rotaract club members of the town and requested them to help me to visit a few schools in this town. I came back to Dr. Tarpadar clinic and he took me to his house for dinner and arranged a room in a good hotel. After dinner I went to the hotel but could not sleep whole night. I had problem with my stomach, I think it was disturbed due to indigestion; I had few antibiotics and tried to sleep.

I got up a little late and now my stomach was ok but I was not feeling well. At the same time I did not wanted to spend much time at one place. Hence I decided to move the next day at the nearest place. I was told that Shreemongal town was the nearest, just 20 Km. Rtn. Tarpadar gave me contact of Aslam Medicine Corner owned by Rtn. Mohammad Rufi Amim for Shreemongal. In the afternoon a few Rotaractors came with Rtn Tarpadar. They had fixed up "Flower K.G. School" for my speech. There were students of 7th standard and were not much acquainted to English, but were familiar with Hindi (because of Urdu subject and Urdu language is similar to Hindi). So I delivered my speech in both English as well as in Hindi. A girl student came running for my autograph, after I finish the speech. It was really an exciting experience, first time in Bangladesh. All the Rotaractors wanted copies of my photograph with Sachin Tendulkar (A Famous Indian Cricketer), I gave them the duplicate and asked to take out as much as they want. In the evening, Rotaractor Shyam, Titu, Sadat, Jilul and many others took me to the bank of Manu River to show the beauty of nature in their own town. I had a good time with these people. Everyone was crazy about me and wanted me to go to their house, I could pay visit to only three members houses.

Shreemongal

When I started I enquired the route to go to Sreemongal to few young boys, they said "Come with us, we are going the same way". I followed them and reached at the Bus stand. I was very angry, but these poor fellows didn't understood clearly when I said that I go by walk. They might have thought that when I said I would walk meant that I would be walking up to the bus station. I explained to them that I want to go by walk to Sreemongal. They couldn't believe me and were shocked. At last they showed the way and I moved ahead. After around eight-Km walk, I met those boys again. Suddenly they came in front of me (they were on bicycle). They said they were doubtful and could not believe that someone can walk from India to Bangladesh. I found they were really excited and inspired. They walked with me for around two-Km ahead and left.

On the way, many people used to stop and ask, in Bengali language. By now I was able to understand very much Bengali, but just to avoid them I used to repeat my regular sentence, "bangla jaani na" (I do not understand Bengali). I was passing through the flood prone area. On the both sides of the road, the fields were full of water. Many huts, houses and whole crop was under the water. People were using small boats to travel. It was bad but I was excited since this was the first time I have ever seen a flood. It was not very badly affected. There was water on road up to my ankle, my shoe got wet but I continued because I enjoyed it very much. I had fruits after regular intervals and reached Sreemongal by walk at 2 p.m. I went to Aslam Medicine Corner run by Rtn Mohammad Rufi Amim but the Medical shop was closed. I waited until 4 p.m when Dr. Amim came. I explained to him and gave the reference of Rotarian Tarapdar. He arranged a room in a hotel for the night stay. Dr. Amim asked me to see him at night to know more about the expedition. I went to the hotel spend time in roaming around the small town and went to see Dr. Amim at night at around 7.30 p.m. talked about expedition and before leaving his clinic I requested him to give me any reference for the next destination i.e. Hobiganj. He told me to contact Rotarian Shahid Chaudhary, but he didn't give me his address. He said that he is well known in Hobiganj and I could find him in Hobiganj Corporation.

Hobiganj The next day, I woke up early to make a good start towards Hobiganj. Rotarian Amim and the Police told me to avoid the walk from Sreemongal to Shaisteganj because on this way there were many incidents of robbery. Hobiganj was just 45-50 Km I was on my expedition and prepared to face challenges. I was determined and strong enough to survive any problem. I understood what kinds of people are in Bangladesh. I met many bad people, but I learned to tackle and manage with these people. So I moved ahead and took precautions. I did encounter three bad people on my walk. First they spoke to me in Bengali and when I said I don't know Bengali, one of them began to act rudely. He knew Hindi and asked me many questions. I behaved in the same way that they were. I pretended as if I do not have money. I convinced them that I walk for environment (Showed the banner, which shows tree) and will be going back to Calcutta from Dhaka. I told them that the Police help me for food and accommodation. I showed the record book on which I used to get stamp of each police station, wherever I stayed. They tried to open my rucksack and one of them actually took out a few things, which were not much important to me. I was not scared and have already faced such situation with lots of confidence.

One person asked me to give any valuables, I have. I denied and said I have only this camera, but by looking at my face they didn't snatch it. They were also scared because we were on the highway and many buses run on the highway. They wanted me to come aside, but I did not leave the highway. I was happy to loose few things than the valuables. I survived by the God's grace from such situations. I was prepared for such kind of experience in expedition. Before five O'clock I wanted to be in Hobiganj, which I found was not possible, so I hitchhiked and reached Hobiganj at 4.30 pm. From there I walked to the corporation office to meet the Chairman of corporate commissioner, Shahid Chaudhary, he was a Rotary member too. I met him in the Chairman's cabin explained the purpose of my visit and gave reference of Rotarian Dr. Amim of Sreemongal. He arranged for food and accommodation at a rest house. Rotarian Shahid contacted the president of his Club Rotarian, Subhash Deb. Rtn Subhash Deb came down to the rest house, when he came to know about my arrival. He was a very kind gentleman, I spent good time chatting with him. He was a scientist who helped discover the Photo Micrographic Camera with Slide and Micro Projector. But as usual the small people do not make show but the opportunists make use and get highlighted. He was running Apollo Electronic shop. He told me that the Rotary Club of Hobiganj has organised a programme in village "Bulla" for distributing furniture to a school. The school furniture was washed away due to flood. Rotarian Deb asked me to spend one more day and go with them for the programme. I promised him to go.

On Saturday 14th August, I got ready to move with them for the Programme. Everyone was supposed to reach at Apollo Electronics shop. There was one Jeep and Rotarian Chaudhary’s car. I was given a VIP treatment by all the members, though I denied for going by car but they did not listen, I got a comfortable seat in the car. The Program was supposed to start at 10.00, but the School president himself was not there. We waited for him and at last we started the program at 10.30.

The school president came at 11.30. I found people like him do not have the courtesy to come before time and make all necessary arrangements. The Rotary has spent almost 15,000 Taka (A store well, a teachers table and Seven benches for the students.) The president of the school was well educated man. The material was already delivered to them but the function was organised just to complete the formalities. I found this man was well maintained and 15,000 taka for him may not be a big contribution. He should have understood the value of time spent by the Rotary Club members. I hate people those who do not maintain time. It was a small village school. Rotarian Deb introduced me to the students and asked me to give an environmental speech. He said he would interpret, so I had a talk just for five minutes because everyone was sitting in the sun. But Rotarian Deb had a very good talk and I delivered my message. They forced me to plant a tree, so I did it. Rotarian Deb was Hindu Bengali. Being me as an Indian he felt proud, he took me to his house had lunch at his house and spent good time chatting with his son and other family members.

Bhairab

It was 9th day in Bangladesh and the day was 15th August. All India was celebrating 52nd Independence Day. I missed my country and people very much. Everyone was enjoying this day in India but for me this day was very bad. Early morning I moved towards Bhairab. I always took lot of precaution while travelling. On this day, twice some bad men tried to misbehave and snatch my valuables and money. In first case I did not respond to the group and second time also I avoided and kept on walking but that group surrounded me and did not allow me to go ahead. I lied here too as in Nepal. My outfit used to be such that no one could think that I am carrying traveller’s cheques, amounting to approx 1000 US$, with me. Here I used a story, “I am on an educational tour, studying environment (I used to show the banner and the text on it which says don’t cut trees, plant trees and save earth.) I would walk up to Dhaka and then go back to Kolkata (Calcutta). I get food and accommodation with the help of Police (by showing them my record book- where I get stamp from each Police Station wherever I stay). I am travelling without money.” Even then few bad men tried to touch and open my rucksack. I behaved politely but still the men snatched money from my west pouch. There were two nice men among them, they tried to stop and convince others not to trouble me. Because of those two men, my camera was still with me. I lost two T-shirts, approx 200 Taka and first aid box, which used to be in the side pouch of the rucksack.

This was my second time seeing a flood affected area. All crops were under the water and so were many huts and houses. People were using small boats to travel. When I reached at a Market, I stopped at a fruit stall and thought of buying pineapple. He was not able to understand what I want. I made the man understood by body language that I want just one Pineapple, where as he was selling in pairs. I told him to cut it for me. When I turned around, I saw a mob of 50-60 people gathered around me. Many tried to talk to me, but I avoided and moved ahead. By evening, I walked around 40 Km, but Bhairab was still 30 Km away. So I hitchhiked and the Jeep (Toyota type vehicle) dropped me at the Bank of Meghna River. Bhairab was across the river and there was no bridge. One has to cross the river by boat. It was my first time in expedition I travelled by boat and crossed the river. I searched for Rotarian Sirajuddin (Reference given by Rotarian Deb) in the main market. He had a shop in the market, but he was not in the shop. Instead his son welcomed me and asked me to wait. When people came to know that I came from India, many people gathered in the shop. Some of them could speak Hindi, so they started talking to me. After waiting for long time, his son took me at the meeting venue. I got to explain my plans to president Rotarian Indrajeet Das and gave him the reference of Rotarian Deb. He made accommodation in a good hotel and invited me for breakfast at his house the next day. I told him that I would be leaving early morning so not to take trouble. But he insisted since I would be passing by his house. Later I went to the hotel, I was very tired but I never got to bed before 11.00.

Norshingdi

I called at Mr Das' home, although I did not really want to trouble him, and found on meeting his wife, that he was a doctor. I breakfasted with them, thanked, them, and left, with their blessings, on a forty kilometre journey to Norshingdi.

My day's travel passed pleasantly until evening, when I was approached by three drunks as I approached the town. Suddenly, one of them snatched my umbrella, pouch, and cap. Nobody came forward to help me, and I became involved in a dispute over whether I was Indian or Bengali. People passed by, some of them laughing, and the drunks were joined by a group of younger ones. I was holding tightly to my waist-pouch, but one of the drunks was trying to wrench it from my grasp. I continued my efforts calling some one for help but no one come forward. Every one was laughing. Finally, I told them that if they wanted to see my passport (to prove my nationality) they could accompany me to the police station. As we moved off, they became more and more aggressive, until I stopped and asked a shopkeeper if we were on the right road to the police station. He told me they were leading me in the wrong direction. I began shouting loudly; one of the drunks struck me, but even though I was helpless and outnumbered, he released my waist-pouch, dropped the property they had taken from me, and ran off. I moved back towards the police station, but the remaining group stayed with me even though I was shouting, until we were about fifty metres from the police station but when I entered the building, they ran off. I told a police officer what had happened, and another officer was sent after the drunks, whilst I explained to the first officer what I was doing in the area. He took the name and telephone number of a Rotarian named Nasim, which had been given me previously, phoned, and discovered Nasim was the branch manager of the Norshingdi National Bank.

On hearing Mr Nasim's request that I be taken to the bank, another officer was sent to escort me to Mr Nasim's office. I thanked the officer, went inside, and Rotarian Nasim welcomed me. He phoned three or four Rotarians locally, and all seemed impressed with the expedition. Many photographs were taken, and Rotarian Mohammad yahya asked if I would stay at his home. His house was not like other, richer, Rotarians' houses, although it was large. He introduced me to his family, then offered me a bath.

For quite some days now, I had suffered from severe itching when taking baths – especially whenever I wore either of two particular pairs of shorts. But now I understood the reason: those shorts had been part of my kit for some four months now, and the time had long-since come for us to part. I finally made it to bed at midnight.

Day Eleven:

I was seated outside, near the pond where Rotarian Yahya was taking his bath; the water was green, females wash their pots in the same pond, and some people even bathe their animals in it. After breakfast, I went with Mr Yahya to Norshingdi High School, where the Principal asked me to visit each class and talk to the students. This was not possible, so I requested that he combine three to four classes, so that I could save time by having to deliver my message only once. But in the end, I spoke to two groups. We had fruits and a snack with the Principal, then I bid farewell to all after thanking them for their kindness, and moved on toward Bultha, reaching my destination that same evening on foot.

There, I found a police camp, where I went through my usual explanations and requested help in finding accommodation. The police officer called the village headman, explained about me, and asked the headman to put me up somewhere for the night. The headman's friend, who had come with him, was asked to take me to the headman's house, as he was not returning home immediately. When we arrived, the headman's brother opened a shop and invited me to seat myself inside. Three or four people appeared, one of whom spoke a little Hindi, but with my Bengali, I was able to understand nearly all of what they were saying. I did tell a 'white' lie, albeit a small one, and told them I was studying the culture and people of Bangladesh, but that I did not carry any money. I showed them my photographs, which impressed them; we shared dinner and sat up until eleven o'clock, chatting. Another late night for me; this time I slept in the shop.

Day Twelve: Dhaka

Today would see me in Dhaka, the most polluted city in Bangladesh. I rose early, thanked everyone for their kindness - although I did not see the village headman again - and one of my new friends dropped me at the highway, which was far removed from the shop in the village. I walked the thirty kilometres to Dhaka, and noticed that many buses ran between Sylhet and my destination. I reached Dhaka around four pm; and contacted another Rotarian, Dr Alimullah Miyan. His name had been given to me by Mr Chaudhary who had met the doctor in Singapore. I arrived at his office at 6:30pm; was welcomed, and learned he was the founder and Vice-Chancellor of IUBAT (International University of Business, Agriculture and Technology). He had suffered a hard and difficult time growing up, and the University was the fruit of his labour.

He continued working while I spent some time knowing Dhaka- Also spelled DACCA, city and capital of Bangladesh, located just north of the Burhi Ganga River, a channel of the Dhaleswari, in the south-central part of the country. Its name is said to refer to the dhak tree, once common in the area, or to Dhakéswari ("The Hidden Goddess"), whose shrine is located in the western part of the city.Dhaka's history can be traced to the 1st millennium AD, but it did not rise to prominence until the 17th century, when it served as the Mughal capital of Bengal province (1608-39 and 1660-1704). It was the centre of a flourishing sea trade, attracting English, French, and Dutch traders.

Historic buildings of the Muslim period include Lal Bagh fort (1678) and its tomb of Bibi Pari (d. 1684), wife of a governor of Bengal; the Bara Katra (great caravansary; 1664); the Chhota Katra (small caravansary; 1663); and Husayni Dalan (a religious monument of the Shi'ite sect; 1642). Other 17th-century buildings include the Hindu Dhakeswari temple and Tejgaon church, built by the Portuguese. The more than 700 mosques, including Bayt ul-Mukarram, date back to the 15th century.

With the removal of the provincial capital to Murshidabad (1704) and the decline of the muslin industry, Dhaka entered a period of decline. It passed under British control in 1765, was constituted a municipality in 1864, but continued to decay until it was designated capital of Eastern Bengal and Assam province (1905-12). During the early 20th century Dhaka served as a commercial centre and seat of learning. It became the capital of East Bengal province (1947) and of East Pakistan (1956). Dhaka suffered heavy damage during the war of independence in 1971 but emerged as the capital of Bangladesh.

Together with its river port of Narayanganj, 10 miles (16 km) south, Dhaka now houses the largest industrial concentration in the country. Traditional products include jamdani (fine-quality muslin), embroidery, silk, and jewelry.

The city also contains the University of Dhaka (1921) and Jahangirnagar University (1970), numerous affiliated government colleges, an engineering and technology university, a nuclear-science training and research centre, a library, and a museum.

The area around Dhaka consists of a level plain bounded by the Meghna, Padma (Ganges), and Jamuna (Brahmaputra) rivers. The plain is crossed by a network of streams and rivers, the chief being the Dhaleswari, Burhi Ganga, and Lakhya. Important crops are rice, jute, sugarcane, and oilseeds; there is also a government cattle farm. Industries include jute processing and the manufacture of rope, string, baskets, cotton cloth, and boats. The area includes the ancient city of Vikrampur, former capital of the Pala rulers of Bengal (8th-12th century).

After he finished his work at 8:30pm we left for Dr Miyan's home. His was a big bungalow ('big house'), and I was given a guest room with an en suite. I enjoyed a good, hot bath, dressed, and joined the doctor and his wife for dinner. Both were very kind, and reminded me of Dr Chaudhary and his wife of Bongaigaon. I had the best dinner I had yet had in Bangladesh then being so tired, I went to bed at 10:30

The following morning was my first morning in Dhaka. I had breakfast with fruits, and told Dr Miyan that I would be visiting the Indian Embassy first and then the Burmese Embassy. Mrs Miyan was working with the World Food Programme, so we dropped her fist at the Islamic Development Bank Building. We reached IUBAT at 8:30am; Dr Miyan works twelve-hour days, and through his own efforts, was going to start his own university. I surfed the internet first, and downloaded all the mail from the WWF - Laos and Vietnam. There were many questions to be answered in order for them to arrange my visa, so I e-mailed the information back, then Dr Miyan asked his driver to drop me at the Indian Embassy Office.

Here, the secretary proved to be difficult: first, he denied meeting, and then I had to repeat my requests several times, telling him that I would require a reference letter in the name of the Burmese Embassy. I pointed out that I had received a similar letter from the Indian Embassy in Nepal for my Bangladesh visa. He asked me to wait. Two hours later, he returned, to tell me that first I had to visit the Burmese Embassy. I pointed out that if I got the letter I needed from the embassy in Nepal, why couldn't the embassy here issue the same kind of letter?

Eventually, without my letter, I left, and headed for the Burmese Embassy, only to find I had been given the wrong address. I booked in at a hotel, got the correct address, and reached the Burmese Embassy at 2pm – to find they had closed for the day, except for the collection of visas. I requested information from an embassy officer still on duty, and eventually the Visa Officer came out. I explained to him what I was doing and where I would be heading. He said 'First, you won't be allowed to walk anywhere in Burma. Second, if you try to give a speech anywhere, soldiers will put you in jail. In other words, I can't even give you a tourist visa for Burma, let alone a Visitor's visa'.

Depressed, I returned to the hotel, had lunch, and went back to IUBAT; here I called up BSS (Bangladesh Snghabad Sanstha), a news-agency. The director asked me to at 7pm. that night. I met the news-agency director in his office, and Mr Rajesh - a journalist - interviewed me and took several photographs for distributed to reputable newspapers. Earlier that day, Dr Miyan had given me detailed instructions on how to find his home in Uttara as we realised I would be returning home late, and it turned out that Mr Rajesh was heading the same way. We caught a bus, I got off at Uttara, followed Dr Miyan's rough map of the location of his house, and eventually reached the house at 10:45pm. The Miyans were already in bed, so the guard who opened the gate put together a meal for me, and I retired at midnight after having a good, hot bath.

I rose and breakfasted the next morning, which was a Friday and therefore a holiday in Bangladesh. Dr Miyan asked me to contact the Rotary Club's District Governor, a Mr Uzair Farooq, who asked me to lunch with him. I spent quite some time over lunch with Mr Farooq. He invited me to a district Rotary meeting that evening, but did not speak much other than that, and asked me to be seated in his office. I waited until 4:30 that evening, and got the distinct impression Mr Farooq did not really care much about me or my project. But the reception at the meeting was quite different. Everyone was waiting for Mr Farooq at the venue, and I met many important people. I laughed a lot, and felt very welcome. I also met again many Rotarians whom I had met on the way to Dhaka - people who had helped me a lot. Before the meeting commenced, I thanked these people for their assistance earlier, and requested help in my trip to Cox's Bazaar. I spoke for some eight minutes, met a number of Rotarians, and learned there were many more inside the Cirdap auditorium, who wanted to meet me, but could not leave their meeting. One in particular whom I did meet was a Mr Humayun Rashid, who gave me financial support for my trip. Eventually, I thanked them all and returned to the hotel by bus - this time, at a reasonably early hour. I dined alone, then retired, some two hours later.

The following day there was a Bandh (strike), which lasted two days, and all shops and businesses were closed. The following morning, I returned to IUBAT, and from there visited the Indian Embassy once more, managed to contact the First Secretary, but was told by him that he was 'too busy' to even meet me. I made my way to the Thai Embassy, and was told that Indians get a visa on arrival for fifteen days, but only if I had a return ticket booked or a visa for a third country. Returning to the Indian Embassy once more, where I tried to get an appointment to speak to the Deputy High Commissioner - but his personal assistant refused and made me an afternoon appointment with a Counsellor instead. The appointment was for five minutes only, and was told by this Counsellor that he could not assure me as to my visa. He gave me a second appointment for the next morning around lunchtime, and I left.

That next day, I felt so angry and frustrated, I did not even have lunch. At IUBAT, I emailed David and Sharon, asking them to fax a letter to the Thai Embassy stating that I would be visiting Laos and Vietnam after Thailand. But even the Thai branch of the WWF could not help me. After breakfast the next day, Dr Miyan told me he had arranged to drop me at Uttara girl's high school where I would be permitted to make a speech. I spoke to the principal, who welcomed me, and called the senior students into an auditorium. My speech, delivered with the aid of an interpreter, was well received. Then I contacted the Counsellor at the Indian Embassy, only to receive a message, after waiting for some two hours, that he could not help me. Again I returned, empty-handed, to IUBAT. Dr Miyan suggested I go to Chittagong, attend to all the formalities, and return. I felt this was a good idea, as it would give Laos and Vietnam a little extra time to try to assist me.

At least the media appeared to be interested in my project: over lunch, I found my story and photograph in a weekly magazine called 'News and Views'. My visa was valid for another ten days, so that night I packed my rucksack, and the Miyans dropped me on the road leading to Chittagong the next morning. The first stop on my journey was a village called Sonargaon, but after enquiring, I found there was no accommodation available. The local police suggested I try Daudkandi, which, by walking and hitch-hiking, I reached later that night. I stopped in at the police station, and they found me a room in a cheap hotel. The room had no ventilation, was very small, and was the dirtiest place I have ever stayed in.

The next morning, I moved out, towards Comilla; taking rest periods of some fifteen to twenty minutes every two hours, I reached the town later that evening. I had a few names, addresses, and phone numbers of district Rotarians with me, and first visited the home of Dr Kurshid Alam, who was absent at the time. A houseboy phoned Adv. Golam Farooq for me, and after I had explained the purpose of my visit, he asked me to come to his house, which I found with the help of the houseboy. I spent some time with his family, including his two sons and five-year-old daughter, Kumkum, who spoke Hindi well.

I spent the night at his home, had a hot bath, and shifted into a hotel next day, when another Rotarian - Zahidul Islam - called for me to guide me to a hotel. He then took me to a meeting venue, the local Rotary Hall, which we found was locked. We then shifted to a Diabetic Centre, where a Rotarian meeting was scheduled to start at 9:30am – and which eventually commenced an hour and a half later. Forty Rotarians participated, and I was asked to tell them of my journey and its purpose. That same evening, we visited a tree-planting site and I placed three saplings at the residence of one of the Rotarians, after which we visited a local newspaper office where I was interviewed and told the article would appear in the next day's issue. Mr Zahidul took me back to Adv. Farooq's residence so I could thank him for his kindness, as I intended leaving the following morning after visiting a local school. But I stayed an extra day, and Rotarian Zahidul came to the hotel, showed me the article in the newspaper, then we visited Comilla Modern High School. I again told of my journey, thanked Mr Zahidul, and headed off towards the village of Chhodugram - some forty kilometres distant.

Comilla is also spelled as Kumilla, town, eastern Bangladesh. It is situated just south of the Gumti River, which is a tributary of the Meghna. Connected by road and rail with Dhaka and Chittagong, Comilla is a centre for the collection of hides and skins and has a thermal power station, a match factory, and jute mills. The main cottage industries are cane and bamboo basketry, woodworking, and cotton weaving. The town is distinguished by the size and number (more than 400) of the tanks (water reservoirs) in its environs; the Dharma Sagar tank, measuring 1 mile (1.6 km) in circumference, was constructed by a Tippera raja in the 15th century. Constituted a municipality in 1864, the town contains a library, a teacher-training college, and a number of government colleges, including the village development academy of Comilla Government Victoria College, affiliated with the University of Chittagong.

The surrounding area consists chiefly of a level alluvial plain intersected by rivers and inundated during the rainy season. Rice, jute, oilseeds, betel nuts, chilies, and vegetables are the chief crops; some tea and cotton are grown on the hill slopes. The area formed part of the Hill Tippera princely state until 1733, when it was annexed by the Mughals. In 1765 its administration passed to the British East India Company.

Along the way I saw many signs of flooding: crops under water, huts and houses inundated, and people using small boats to travel. I walked on in the rain, and reached Chhodugram in the evening. This time, the local police could not help with accommodation as there was no hotel here, and no place to spend the night. They asked me to go on to Feni, another twenty-five kilometres further, Police helped me catch a private vehicle, and reached Feni at eight o'clock. I went straight to Rotarian Adv. Akrammuzzaman's home - I had met him at the Dhaka meeting and still had his card. A caretaker let me in as Mr Akrammuzzaman was not at home; I took a bath as I was soaked from my day's travel, and eventually Mr Akrammuzzaman and his wife returned. We had dinner, a long talk about my travels and problems, and retired shortly after midnight. I seemed to be receiving a good response from the Rotarians in Bangladesh, and was given a letter to the local school principal; I visited the village's two schools, found both were in the middle of exams, so moved on to the local college. Here, after convincing the principal of my good intentions, I was permitted to talk to the science class at 10:40am. I found the teachers were not all that interested as they wanted to finish their syllabus without disturbance; but I did get to deliver my speech.

The following day over breakfast, Mr Akrammuzzaman told me of an intercity Rotary meeting scheduled to take place in Chittagong at 5:30 that same evening, so I thanked them, began walking, and managed to hitchhike, arriving in Chittagong in time for the meeting. I found the Engineers' Institute, which was the venue for the meeting, and met Rotarian Anwar-ul-haque (whom I had also met at the Dhaka meeting). I had the opportunity to address the meeting towards the close, and Anwar-ul-haque told me he would take up a collection for me. He took me to his home, and I slept in the room which was his office, and after breakfast the next morning, returned to the problem of the extension of my visa. I visited the Indian Embassy first, and was told to go to the Bangladesh Passport Office. There, I got the forms I needed, and asked what I would require for the extension. An officer told me I would need a letter of Sponsorship. I lunched at my hotel, then visited the news office, where I was interviewed informally by some reporters who were so interested, they took me to the Private College for photographs of me giving my little talk. But the director was not there, so they again interviewed me and took some photographs to go with the story.

Then I went to Anwar-ul-haque's office. It turned out he was a sea-captain, and said that if I could get a visa for Singapore, he would book me on a Singapore-bound ship.

The 1st of September, I woke, breakfasted, and visited Summerfield Tutorial School, where I addressed fifth and seventh-grade students along with their teachers, most of whom were from Calcutta. Then I returned to the Bangladesh Passport Office, with no more success than before. Anwar-ul-haque told me to find a broker and make the arrangements through him, as he would do it all without a letter of Sponsorship.

Eventually, I found a broker, paid him some two hundred Taka, and he took care of the matter, gave me a receipt, and asked me to return on Sunday to collect my passport. But when Anwar-ul-haque told me that his ship would leave on September 6th; I realised the plan was unworkable, as the 2nd; 3rd; and 4th were holidays; this left only the 5th in which to arrange the passport (from the broker's viewpoint), and one day was simply not enough time. The 6th was the earliest he could have it ready for me, so I would just have to wait until the Sunday.

Chittagong also called as Chittagram, city that is the chief Indian Ocean port of Bangladesh. It lies about 12 miles (19 km) north of the mouth of the Karnaphuli River, in the southeastern arm of the nation. It is a major communications centre and is linked by rail with Dhaka and Comilla, by road with Feni and Comilla, and by air with Dhaka, Jessore, Cox's Bazar, and Calcutta. The second most important industrial city in Bangladesh, its varied manufacturing establishments extend about 10 miles (16 km) to the north and northeast.

Chittagong has a splendid natural harbour. After the creation of Pakistan in 1947, much trade was diverted to Chittagong from Calcutta, and the port was considerably improved. It is equipped with modern facilities and has numerous permanent jetties and moorings. An offshore terminal was built that is connected with the city's eastern oil refinery by a large-capacity pipeline. Chittagong's foreign trade has increased with Bangladesh's economic development, and city life centres around the harbour. Tea, naphtha, jute, and jute manufactures constitute the port's principal exports.

The city grew in different directions along the main routes of transportation and was developed according to a master plan. Among other buildings, two markets covering an area of about 700,000 square feet (65,000 square m) were constructed. The principal industries of Chittagong include cotton and jute mills, tea and match factories, and chemical and engineering works. The city has an iron and steel mill, and its large oil refinery went into production in 1968. Being the gateway of Bangladesh for foreign trade, the city has offices of many foreign firms and banks. It is the headquarters of the Bangladesh Railway, and the railway workshop is located in the nearby town of Pahartali.

Constituted a municipality in 1864, Chittagong has several hospitals, an ethnological museum, a medical college, a technological institute, and the University of Chittagong (1966), with numerous affiliated colleges. Nearby are a cadet college (at Faujdar Hat) and a merchant-marine academy.

Chittagong's port was known to the Mediterranean world from the early Christian era and was known to Arab sailors by the 10th century Ad. It was called Porto Grande by Portuguese and Venetian voyagers and was described by João de Barros in 1552 as "the most famous and wealthy city of the Kingdom of Bengal." It has been generally identified with the city of Bengala described by early Portuguese and other writers. Conquered by the Muslims in the 14th century, Chittagong passed to the Arakanese in the next century. The piratical raids of the Arakanese and their Portuguese mercenaries led to the dispatch of a strong force by Shaista Khan, the Mughal governor (nawab) of Bengal, who in 1666 occupied the region. Chittagong was ceded to the British East India Company in 1760.The area surrounding Chittagong is heavily populated and comprises a narrow strip of coast along the Bay of Bengal and ranges of low hills separated by fertile valleys. The climate is moist, warm, and equable, with a heavy rainfall amounting to more than 100 inches (2,540 mm) annually, falling mainly during the summer monsoons. The area's chief rivers are the Karnaphuli, Feni, Halda, Sangu, and Matamuhari. The higher parts of the Chittagong Hills are forested, while the lower portions are covered predominantly with brushwood. Between the hills lie cultivated valleys that were originally filled by deposits of sand and clay washed down from the hills. Rice is the most important crop; tea is grown on low hills that are unfit for rice cultivation. Chilies and vegetables are also grown, and cane and bamboo are economically valuable forest products

With time on my hands now, I decided to travel to Cox's Bazaar, some one hundred and fifty-one kilometres from Chittagong, and return on the Sunday. The following morning, I obtained a letter of reference from Anwar-ul-haque, together with the donations from the meeting I had attended, an began walking in the rain. After about thirty kilometres , I caught a bus, and reached the small town of Chakoria in the evening. With the help of the police, I booked in at the Hotel Kapsha, spent the night in Chakoria, and woke to face the problem of swelling in both thighs. It was very painful, but I continued on towards Cox's Bazaar, travelling through hills and mountain-forests, with very little inhabitation. I caught a bus eventually, and reached Cox's Bazaar around five in the afternoon, searched for almost two hours, and finally found the office of Rotarian Swapan Dutta. I gave him my letter of reference, had dinner, and slept in his office.

Cox's Bazaar boasts the longest beach in the world, and the next day, I got a good idea of how the sea becomes polluted. Oil floated on the water; it seemed any vessel passing through dumped oil in the sea.

This town, southeastern Bangladesh, situated along the Bay of Bengal. A small port and health resort, it has one of the largest beaches in the world. Cox's Bazar is connected by road, rail, and air with Chittagong to the north. Its industries include cigar and cotton-textile manufacturing. Nearby are numerous salt-producing cottage industries and magnetite iron-ore, monazite, zircon, and titanium deposits. Ramu, 10 miles (16 km) east, is the site of a Buddhist temple. Constituted a municipality in 1869, the town was named for Hiram Cox, who supervised the settlement there of Arakanese refugees from Burmese conquest in 1799.

I remained until Sunday morning and caught the bus back to Chittagong. The Passport Office proved just as difficult as previously. I showed my letter, but no, it was not ready. I spoke to the senior officer and told him how important it was that I receive my passport today, at which point he asked me to go to the City Special Branch. Here, I was asked to return after two to three days. I became frustrated, showed my Bengali newspaper clippings and photographs, and again pointed out the importance of receiving the passport today. The officer said 'Okay, wait,' so I sat down right in front of him. Some two hours later I received the documentation I needed, and thought at last I would receive the visa. But, oh! No...I was told to return to the Passport Office. Back to the Passport Office I went, where it was this officer's turn to tell me to return the next day. I pleaded with him, begged him to issue my passport, and eventually he told me to return in two hours.

With time to spare, I visited an internet café that, by coincidence, was owned by a Rotaractor. He offered me snacks and was very excited to meet me as he had read the article about me in that days 'Daily Star' newspaper. He called another member, and I spent some time with them, then Rotaractor Mutaleb took me to the Passport office. I spoke to the same officer I had spoken to before, but he made a mess of everything, including wasting two pages simply trying to create an extension stamp for my visa. But eventually I had my passport in my hand again.

In the evening, Mr Mutaleb took me to a Rotary meeting. Then we returned to his house, I packed my rucksack, had dinner, and said goodbye to my new acquaintance and his family. I boarded the bus to Dhaka, reaching my destination at 5:30 the next day. I visited the Thai Embassy where, as usual, I was told by the girl in charge to 'return tomorrow'. I became angry, began shouting, and finally an officer came to the window and asked what I wanted. I explained to him in detail, and he told me to return in the afternoon with my application form and the letter from the Indian Embassy. So I went to the Indian Embassy in a dark mood, got five minutes with the Deputy High Commissioner, and showed him the letter from the Ministry of External Affairs. I even informed him that I had spent almost eight days trying to get my visa, without result, and finally he agreed to issue a letter and called the First Secretary - who now denied issuing any letter in the first place. This time, the First Secretary had no choice; the letter was issued, and at two o'clock I returned to the Thai Embassy, filled in the application, attached the letter, and submitted the documents. Then, to my relief, the girl in charge returned and told me they would issue a visa, but I would receive it on arrival at Bangkok. I felt like crying.

I realised there was only one way I would get to Thailand: I had to buy a two-way return ticket then, after reaching Thailand, I would have to send the return ticket back to Dhaka. A travel agent told me the return fare would cost around 18,000 Taka, whilst a one-way fare would cost 14,200 Taka. So far, in my travel through Bangladesh, I had received in donations some 7,000 Taka. The Rotary Club of Greater Dhaka had given me 2,000, whilst the District Governor had given another 2,000, which all came to 11,000. We asked the agent to book one ticket to Bangkok, and on the following day, Rotary held another fundraising effort on my behalf, and the next day I visited the Rotary Club of Komara, where I explained that I was short by some 3,200 Taka. The Club had no cash, but they contacted Dr Miyan, and he authorised a cheque for 3500 Taka. I could not believe my luck!

Then I visited the travel agent, and got my ticket, booked for Dhaka-Bangkok-Dhaka, leaving at 4.45 on the next day, September 8th. Dr Miyan took me to his university again, and I spoke to the students, while Dr Miyan wrote a letter to Bangkok, asking the Rotary members there to assist me. That afternoon, Dr Miyan's driver took me to the airport, and I thanked the driver, Dr Miyan, and moved inside. This would be my third trip in an airplane: the previous trips were to Sri Lanka and Madras. So now I did not feel so lost in the airport terminal. The flight was delayed two hours, and I was a little tense because of the ticket, as it was a return ticket, and I did not have a multiple entry visa with me. Finally, at 6:50pm; we boarded the aircraft, a large plane, and not like the congested, cramped aircraft from Sri Lanka. There was also a computer screen every five rows of seats, used to show the status, such as the plane's speed, its height, and the time remaining to its destination. Looking down through a window as the plane lifted into the sky, I bid farewell to Bangladesh, and began filling in my embarkation card. Finally, after much difficulty, I was on my way to Thailand.


Thailand

My First night at Bangkok Airport

I reached at the Airport at 10.30 night. As soon as I came into the lobby, I could feel the difference it was great and wow! The girls! I saw them many times in the movies but here I was looking them at face to face from a distance of a few feet. Went first for exchange got the exchange of $50 around 1300 Bath (Thai currency). Went to "Visa on Arrival" counter and got the visa for 15 days by paying 300 Bath. I was in the lobby, phone facility was free, I called up the Rotarian to whom Uncle faxed the letter, but he refused to help. I was a little disappointed but then decided to spend the night in the Airport and move in the morning to WWF office to get them to help. I went outside once to see how the atmosphere is but I could not dare to go, and moreover, where to go - that was the question. It was much better to spend the night on the Airport.

It was first morning and second day (according to Visa) in Thailand on 9th September. The WWF office was in ATI (Asian Institute of Technology). At 5.30; when I came out of the Airport, it scared me: very wide roads with the flyovers for crossing the road, and many people rushing in and out of the Airport. I was looking at the Thai people as if I was seeing them for the first time in my life, there were so many. It was a great experience for me to be in Thailand, because in India I heard about Thailand a lot, and now I was in the city of Bangkok. I couldn't believe it. I enquired how to get to the ATI; and reached it by bus at 6.30 in the morning. The office was in a building and in the same building there were other offices too. So the entrance gate was open and in the lobby there were chairs to seat and a bathroom. I kept my rucksack, freshened up in the bathroom, and waited for the officers, as the timings were from 8 O'clock.

After 8; staff started coming. I introduced myself to the secretary of Mr. Robert Mather who was the Director at that time and explained to her about the expedition. She went inside and explained, but he was not at all interested in me and did not want to meet me. I thought there would not be any problem, he would welcome and would greet me happily, but nothing happened the way I expected. I had to request the secretary to allow me to meet Mr. Robert. He was the first man who was working for the sake of environment and denied helping me. He didn't even respond to my e-mails regarding help to get the visa. I told him, 'its new country and new people for me, I need help for accommodation,' but he was not so kind enough to guide me. After spending lot of time in the office I understood Mr. Robert wouldn't help me. I requested to give some posters at least in Thai language. I found Mr. Robert was not at all interested in my expedition or me. But I was a very different kind of person; I moved out with few posters and stickers. I decided to go to the Indian High commission and ask for help. The ATI was on the outskirts of Bangkok, and the Indian Embassy was situated in the city. It was unbelievable Bangkok was so beautiful, with high and shining buildings, many overbridges or flyovers, and clean, wide roads, beautiful girls and the people will help you.

I was very hungry so I decided to have a good meal. I went into a hotel and had a very different kind of lunch, I ordered an omelette and rice with curry, but I got chicken soup with chicken pieces. The taste of chicken was different and was very difficult to eat - I felt like I was chewing rubber. I could guarantee the composition of the omelette, and I watched it cooked by a lady who was suckling a baby at the same time. I admired the skill with which she transferred the infant form one breast to another while turning my omelette. I paid 40 Bath for the food. It was 2.00 p.m. when I reached the office of the Indian High Commission, after lunch. At reception, I explained and requested an Indian officer to help me. He asked me to meet Mr. Y.P. Singh. Mr. Y.P. Singh could not do much except providing 3-4 letters in the namesof a few temples to help me for accommodation. The other staff suggested I go to "Pohurat" even the list was showing few addresses of the same area, the known place for Indians in Bangkok. I heard around more than a 100,000 Indians live in that area. I was really surprised.

I enquired of Thai people about the bus number that goes to "Pohurat". One thing I liked of Thai people that they would apologize if they do not know or they would guide you in a better way. (Not like Indians, who would send you in any direction but would never say, "No, I do not know". In Thailand no body misguides unless you ask the person who knows English or you should be aware of Thai language. In "Pohurat" I saw India. There was not much difference, you get to hear Hindi songs while walking but the language spoken was Thai. Everyone knows Hindi in "Pohurat". So first I went to Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) the famous one. It was 5 O'clock in the evening. I met the President, explained to him, and requested accommodation in Gurudwara. First time any Sardarjee (Punjabi) denied me for help and refused. I was so confident, that Indians would help me and when they would know the cause for the purpose I walk they would come forward to help. But tears came out when the Sardarjee denied me, I could not think for a moment where to go and where to stay. I said to myself, "control!!!!! It's an expedition I should try, try and try after hard work only one gets success." The only worrying problem, it was getting dark and since last night I could not sleep.

I visited another address from the letters given by Mr. Singh it was a temple "Hindu Samaj". It was 7 p.m. It was a big Hindu temple. I went inside contacted Panditji, who was really a God for me. I showed the letter given by Mr. Singh and requested to help me for the accommodation. But the president of the Temple was Mr. Ashok Chawla. He was staying at a different place. Panditji & I spoke to him, he said we do not have any rooms in the temple but then I requested him that even if I could get a small place anywhere in the temple it would do.

At last God helped me and Mr. Chawla allowed me to stay but only if Panditji did not have any problem. There were other Panditji's also, everyone loved me and praised the work. Aunty, Panditji's wife, was very kind and took lot of care. I kept my rucksack in a corner of the room, took a bath had a very good Indian vegetarian dinner, and slept in the main hall along with two junior Panditji where people sit for prayer. I thanked God for not leaving me alone in new country with new people.

My plan was to walk according to the expedition program. Just because I didn't get a visa for Burma, I had to come to Thailand, otherwise the next country was Laos. I had only a 15 day visa with me to get the Lao visa and continue the expedition. So on third day morning without wasting much time I went to the office of Lao High Commission. I explained to the counselor about the expedition and enquired if they have got any kind of letter or instruction regarding me from Laos WWF. But the counselor said, "No" and even refused to give visa, stating "You should have return ticket from Lao or double entry visa for Thailand or should have the third country visa. We should have something that proves you would leave Laos." He suggested I get a visa from the border.

I was very much tensed and was worried. I was thinking what has Sharon London (Project Officer WWF-Lao) done from Laos, nothing? I was confident of getting visa because before I left for Bangkok, she wrote me to get the visa in Bangkok. I decided to call up Lao but before that, I called up Vietnam, and spoke to Mr. David and got Sharon's phone number. Then I called up Sharon (Call to Lao was like a local can be made from any booth, the charges were one Bath per 2 seconds), but could not speak to Sharon. The lady who picked up the phone even she was aware of the expedition, so I explained to her and requested she fax the letter to the Lao embassy at the border, as I would reach the border after a week. I told her to get it done in a week's time. I was doubtful and tense that if I did not get the visa the expedition would end. I sent the return ticket to Uncle as per the promise (Rotarian Alimullah Miyan) at Dhaka in Bangladesh by speed post, which cost me more than 400 Bath. I came back to the temple, had lunch and, in the evening, when Mr. Chawla and other members came, I requested them to write a letter for me in Thai language that would explain about the expedition and the way I walk i.e. with the help of people. Mr. Koder one of the members wrote the letter for me. He wrote the letter so nicely and even stated that whosever reads the letter, should help me by providing food and accommodation.

Mr. Chawla also provided financial assistance. In the evening I visited the park (garden) and realised what and how developed countries are. There were so many facilities provided by the authorities that people use it and even take care. There were many people from all age groups, doing exercises. Young boys and girls were playing various games. Even the atmosphere encourages people to exercise and play sports. It was a very big park, clean and maintained. After spending almost an hour I came back to the temple, but on the gate I faced a real language problem. Oh!!!!!!!!!!!!!! God it was really funny and I was even helpless at that time. Actually the prayer timing was over and the guard thought I had come for prayer. I told him so many times that I stay here in the temple. But he was saying something in Thai, which I was not able to understand, except that he was asking me to go. He was shouting at me: "Go! ...go!....go...!" I tried to explain even through body language but he laughed, watching my actions. Even I laughed, and understood it was really difficult to explain. I shouted at him but still he didn't open the gate.

At last one of the Junior Panditji came down for his own work. At that time I told him about the guard; even he started laughing and asked the guard, in Thai language, to open the gate and told him I was staying in the temple. I really had a great time convincing that guard. In the temple, when I told the gate story, no- one could not stop laughing. I had dinner and slept at 11.30 p.m.

This was my 4th day, I wanted to go to Thailand-Lao border in a week's time even though it was not on the expedition route. The distance from Bangkok to Nong Khai was around 615 Km. It was, of course, not possible to cover by walking inside a week's time, so I got an "on arrival" visa, but it was valid for only 15 days. Today was the fourth day in Thailand, but still I decided to walk, but hitchhike more if I could. In the early morning, I decided to go to a town called Saraburi. Everyone blessed me before leaving, I thanked them all and moved with the help of Bangkok map. But still there were many crossings, cross roads and flyovers, it was difficult to choose the right one.

I was supposed to walk through Airport road. I enquired every time and wasted a lot of time due to the language problem. At last I got an idea: I found a man who knew English. I explained to him about the expedition and requested him to write two lines saying "I want to go to ........(I should take the name of the place) such and such place on foot and please show me the way." So now the work was very easy. Whenever I got to any cross road, I showed paper and ask for the Airport, because from the Airport, the highway was near enough to avoid many questions like it's very far, not possible by "DUNG THAO" , which means to walk. I saw many girls while walking, and many places girls work. One important thing I have noticed is that mostly School and College girls and boys have similar uniforms all over the city. It was white shirt and black skirt for girls and shirt and pants for boys with same color combination. It is peculiar; a huge statue to democracy dominates the main street of Bangkok. I had snacks and fruits on the way.

In the afternoon I was near to the Airport and having snacks in a small hotel. A person came to purchase coke bottles. First I asked him if he knows English, he replied, 'a little,' so I enquired about the Airport. He said 'oh!!!! It's too far'. Later he enquired about me, so I explained. He was very happy, and said 'I can drop you up at Saraburi'. He was going in his car and there were three more people inside the car - two girls and a man. He introduced me to them and kept my rucksack in the back of the car. The other person spoke good in English. They were going to one of their friend's marriage party. After enjoying a lot with them before I got down at Saraburi, they said, "why do not you come and enjoy the party? You would get to see the Thai marriage party also." They even told me that they would drop me back next day at the same place. They were going to Lopburi, 50 Km ahead of Saraburi but on the different route.

This was the first time, after spending nine months in five countries, that I got such great people who responded to an unknown person; not only that, but you could understand how much faith and belief they had developed in just half an hour. I said 'ok,' because they were going to drop me back, and I would even get to see Thai tradition. They were drinking, smoking and dancing in the car. But they all were very good people. I was sitting in between a girl and a man. One who was sitting besides me was Sopida and the man was Pumpaka (the only man of around 35 years of age); on the front seat the girl was Tekikawa and boy was Werapong. All were around 28-30 years of age, unmarried (except Pumpaka) and jolly persons. Both were very smart and I was lucky to have got Sopida beside me. She was dancing like anything because shd had drunk too much. She asked me also to dance to the tune of music running in the car. I had only cold drinks with them. I felt happy, and I thanked God for the joy and love in other country by those beautiful people.

We reached Lopburi and went to the venue. Actually the marriage was on next day, but partial celebration was the same day. They introduced me to the wedding couple. Both were very smart. We didn't spent much time, with in 15 minutes Werapong and Pumpaka got the bottles of whisky and cold drinks, and asked me to come - it was evening time around 6 O'clock. We went to a lake (Sap Lake) that was around 20 Km away. They purchased snacks and ordered lot of dishes then we finalized a tent (bamboo tent) at the bank of the lake. There were many tents and couples in the tents were enjoying the evening. It was a romantic place and people were enjoying a lot. The scene and sunset were lovely and beautiful. We enjoyed swimming, had a variety of Thai food, and it was all Yaaaaaaaaammmmm - really fried chicken with chilli and lots more. I would say it was "sapiliya"; in Thai it means delicious. I had never had this kind of food before and would not have had in future with such great boys & girls at such a beautiful place. We spent more than three hours and returned to his friend's house. It was the most unforgettable evening of my life spent with good men and beautiful girls. At night, during the party, everyone was looking at me, as I was the only Indian in the party. There also I had variety of Thai food but different to that which I had on the lake. In the party I got to know about Thai cuisine: it is pungent and spicy, seasoned with heaps of garlic and chillies and a characteristic mix of lime juice, lemon grass and fresh coriander. Galanga root, basil, ground peanuts, tamarind juice, ginger and coconut milk are other common additions. Fish sauce or shrimp paste are mainstays of Thai dishes, and of course rice is eaten with most meals. Main dishes include hot and sour fish ragout, green and red curries, various soups and noodle dishes. Thai food is served with a variety of condiments and dipping sauces. Snacks and appetisers include fried peanuts, chicken, chopped ginger, peppers and slices of lime. There is an incredible variety of fruit available, either fresh or juiced. Sugar-cane juice and, for something stronger, rice whisky are favourite local tipples.

We exchanged thoughts on marriage ceremonies in India and Thailand. I came to know that in Thailand the male has to give a dowry to the female, whereas in India, the female has to give the dowry to the male. So it was said that if a female is born in Thailand, parents welcome happily. I saw the Photographs of the wedding couple;, each dress for the couple was not less than 40-50 thousand Bath and even for the photographs they have paid around 25 thousand Bath. The photographs were beautiful - both were looking very smart and the bride was looking like a princess.

The bride's father was in the Air force, and he took us to the Air force quarters. We got two rooms to spend the night. Regarding Thai language: Thai is a complicated language with its own unique alphabet, but it's fun to try at least a few words. The main complication with Thai is that it is tonal: the same word could be pronounced with a rising, falling, high, low or level tone and could theoretically have five meanings!

Really I do not have words to describe those nice men and girls. The next morning they dropped me at Saraburi, but before taking leave we had breakfast. Mr. Pumpaka wrote the Thai word for Hitchhike. He told me 'if you want to hitchhike just show the paper and name the place'. I thanked them a lot, I wished I could do something for them, but except two words "Thank you" and WWF stickers, I had nothing to give them. I said goodbye to them and moved Pakchong the next destination.

In the evening I reached Pakchong and visited Police Station, showed the letter of Hindu Samaj had written in Thai language, and requested a cheap hotel. He directed me to one. I stayed there, but at night I found many girls (of course prostitutes) were sitting; they propositioned me, too, but in friendly manner because they were aware of the expedition and respected me a lot. I just laughed, went out, had dinner, and came back. I am a person, and I do have feelings, but believe, me my girlfriend saved me; it's because of her I never tried to do anything. She used to guide me and always used to tell me not to break her trust. Whenever any bad feeling arose, I remembered her. It's true, and well-known that behind each successful man there is a woman, but behind me there were two – one my mother (expired), and the other my girlfriend. On 6th day I stayed same way in the cheap hotel in Sikhiu.

Everyday I was trying to contact Sharon (WWF-Lao) but was not able to talk to her. I even sent the message through the Internet too. At the same time I was in touch with David and informed him about the problem. I was living in hope that she would do something for me by the time I reached the border, otherwise I would have to come back to India. It was 14th September and I travelled through Pakchong and reached Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat was the old name). I did not spend money even though I came by bus. Actually at a check post I requested a Traffic Police Officer who had little English. He saw my photographs even the letter (Thai language) and enquired lot about the countries that I visited. Later when a bus came he told the ticket officer not to take money from me.

I met very kind people on the way. I always met some people who knew broken English and even I learned little Thai language. In just 3-4 days, like "kerm rang" means fried rice, "Naam" means water, "Dung Thao" means walking, "rung rang thuk-thuk" means cheap hotel, "Thao Dai" means how much and much more - enough for survival. In Nakhon Ratchasima I went to the Indian Market. As in Pohurat (Bangkok), I enquired about the presence of Indians in other cities and came to know about the presence of Indian Markets in each big city. In the market I contacted Sardarji's shop and showed the letter. He asked me to contact the President of Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) whose shop was very close to his shop. I went there and showed the letter. Mr. Jessa Singh, an 80-year-old man, took me to the Gurudwara and opened a very good room. He drew a map of his house and asked me to come for dinner. I got a much better response than in India. They used to talk about India with me. I had Indian food at their house and the family praised a lot. It was the first family I was to meet after Bangkok.

Next day morning I thought of visiting schools, so I visited one. I saw two girls who seemed to be teachers. At first I asked them if they knew English, and both said, "a little;" then I told them that I would like to meet English teacher. Both the girls replied with the smile on their face, "yes, we are English teachers." I would have laughed then and there but controlled myself (when teachers knew English a little, what would be the students condition!) and explained to them the purpose of my visit, but they could not understand what exactly I wanted to do even after showing the photographs. Still, I pressed on and asked them to take me to the principal. But even she was not at all good in English. The two teachers explained but not properly and as a result of that, the principal refused permission for me to talk with the students. I gave the poster and stickers to the teacher and requested to put on the notice board. When I came back to the Gurudwara I found Mr. Jessa Singh was waiting for me. He took me to his house for breakfast and in the evening I saw the Statue known as YAMU - the Queen after whom the city is named - Nakhon Ratchasima. There was a story behind the statue: Queen Cima fought against France for freedom and she killed a lot of French soldiers. People pray in front of the statue, and now she is one of the Goddesses. At night another Sardarjee Mr. Sethi invited me for dinner. Those Sardarjees were also kind as in India. On 17th September I completed more than a week in Thailand and was in Khon Kaen after crossing Udon Thani. Here in this Gurudwara, first time I found Gyaniji (Priest) Mr. Rajendra Singh he was very kind. He used to tell me the stories of Guru Gobind Singhji and how Sikh people fought for the Hindus; at the same time he was very angry. During the 1984 riot, when Prime Minister Indira Gandhi was assassinated, many Hindus killed thousands of innocent Sikh's. Why? Is it just because Sikh's were involved in the assassination? When he got on to that topic, he told me that one of his relative got killed in that riot. I saw the fire in his eyes, I could even feel his pain. Really, why do people not understand? Why should others suffer for one's mistake? People unnecessarily create problems and destroy their lives instead of enjoying peaceful lives with love and unity.

It was Friday and I did not have enough time to work to get the visa because of Saturday and Sunday. And then I had only three days to get the visa or to go back in India. I was very tense, called up Sharon, and asked whether they had sent any fax to Lao consulate at the border, but she was helpless. At last, without wasting much time, I went to the Lao consulate and tried for visa but these people asked, what proof I had that after Laos I would go to Vietnam. They asked me to get a fax from MEA (Ministry of External Affairs) of Lao. Now I was again in trouble and felt like it was the end of the Expedition. I called up Vietnam and asked David to fax a letter on WWF letterhead. I told him that I would mail the matter. I prepared the matter myself. It read: "Mr. Praveen Ohal is on South Asia Expedition carrying message of WWF i.e. "Save the Earth, Save the Animals and Support WWF." He would be coming to Vietnam after Laos. WWF-Vietnam would take care of Mr. Praveen Ohal. So kindly issue him the visa for Laos." The fax was something similar to what I have written. I gave the fax number to one of the Sardarjee's house-cum office.

On the 18th; I got the fax. Uncle told me that the fax came on 17th itself. I was happy to have something with me so that I might get a visa. But I could not submit the application in Khon Kaen because the officer knew my case and would ask for MEA letter. So the only possibility was Bangkok.

On Sunday 19th I moved to Bangkok with a lot of tension and frustration. I even missed the train, so I went to the Bus station and got in to the Bus. At night, at 10 O'clock, I reached Bangkok and then in Pohurat. I walked towards the temple but a policeman enquired, and then he himself dropped me at the temple. Because of the policeman, the watchman opened the gate of the temple. He was a little doubtful, so he dropped me on the top where all Panditjis sleep. When a Panditji welcomed me, the Policeman understood and left. I got the same place to sleep.

Rebirth of expedition

12-13-14th Day I ran towards the Lao Embassy, I didn't talk much that time just submitted the fax of WWF-Vietnam with the application form. He checked the fax and asked for 600 Bath visa fees for urgent visa. I got the visa at 12 pm. It was a great day for me. There was no limit to my joy. The 20th night I spent in Bangkok, and later I spent a day in travelling to Khon Kaen. I Spent a night in the same Gurudwara. The Gyaniji was happy to see me again, because when I left the Gurudwara, I told him that if I got my visa, I would come back; if not, I would fly back to India. He understood that I had gotten the visa and was going to Laos.

On 22nd September, 15th day, the last day of validity of visa in Thailand, I moved to Nong Khai, then walked up to the border. First I got a Thai immigration Check Post, but the Laos immigration Post was 2 Km after the friendship Bridge. I wanted to cross the distance by walking, but the officer said 'walking or cycling is not allowed you should go by bus' (A shuttle run on the bridge). So I paid 10 Bath and the bus dropped at the Laos Check Post. I paid 10 Bath more as entry fee.


Laos


Entry

The month of September, 2000, 22nd afternoon 3 O'clock I decided to continue on foot from the immigration check. Vientiane - the capital of Laos - was less than 20 km immediately I noticed the difference between the poor and the rich (or developed and undeveloped) country: the road was not good; the people were like Indian villagers, even the huts. They used to show me their hands and watch with curiosity; many schoolgirls and boys used to say' Hi! Hallo!' In the evening at 6.30; I reached in the city. It was similar to an Indian village - the drainage water was flowing over the road; road was of sand; the small and unpainted houses, no high buildings etc. I thought of calling Sharon, but I didn't have Kip (Lao currency). I saw a phone booth, but there was a man in the booth. I waited outside the phone booth. When he came out I asked him if he had any Kip. He knew very little English, but told me I should have a phone-card. I did not have a card, but the gentleman helped me and asked the number. We tried two three times using his card, but I couldn't get anyone on that number; I tried many times but the number was not working, I thanked the man and moved ahead. He suggested me to go to an Indian guest house, which was three kilometers further, so I got in to a mini bus and asked the driver whether he knew where the India guest house was. I paid him 20 Bath and he returned me 1000 Kip. I was happy to see the currency – that to in thousands. I contacted Mr. Najim, owner of the guest house and one of the most well-known people in Laos. I explained my expedition to him and requested for the accommodation. It was a half broken building and there were few rooms. I got a room, which did not have a locked. It was congested and suffocating, but for me it was good to spend a night. There were a few Sri Lankan boys and one Pakistani staying in the same guest house. They told me that they would go to Canada; the Pakistani man was the agent who would send them. They were all Tamil People who had fled from Sri Lanka. The Vientiane population is approximately 264,277; this city is the capital and largest city of Laos lying on the Mekong River near the border between Thailand and Laos. It is an important trading centre, with an airport, and ferryboats that link the city with a railway that runs south from nearby Nong Khai, Thailand, to Bangkok. River transportation also connects Vientiane with towns along the Mekong. It is also spelled VIANGCHAN, the city's central river port location in a country relying heavily on its rivers for transportation and its surrounding hinterland of intensive rice cultivation have made Vientiane the major economic centre of Laos. The city has a tropical monsoon climate, every month having an average daytime temperature above 80 F (27 C) and more than 80 percent of Vientiane's annual precipitation on the average falling in the five months May-September. The town was founded during the late 13th century, and in the mid-16th century the capital of the Lao kingdom (a state known as Lan Xang) was moved to Vientiane from its previous traditional location at Luang Prabang (now Louangphrabang). In 1778 Vientiane came under Siamese control; in 1828 it was sacked and destroyed when the subject Laotian king revolted against Siamese hegemony. From 1899 to 1953, with the exception of the Japanese occupation (1945), Vientiane was in succession the seat of the French governor and the French administrative capital. Vientiane still has some of its older wooden structures, despite its government offices, foreign embassies, and schools. Its modern industries include brewing, lumber processing, and the manufacture of brick, tile, textiles, cigarettes, matches, detergents, plastic bags, rubber sandals, and iron and steel. The Lao farmers of the surrounding area tend rice, corn (maize), and livestock in some of the best alluvial lowlands of Laos. Before 1975 the city was the principal stock shipping and slaughtering centre of the country. Since the shift in the country's import trade from Vietnam to Thailand, Vientiane has replaced Pakxé to the southeast as Laos's principal port of entry. The Sisavangvong University (founded 1958) in Vientiane has faculties of agriculture, art, education, forestry and irrigation, and medicine. Affiliated bodies include Fa-Ngum College, Lycée Vientiane, Polytechnic, and Pali and Sanskrit institutes. Ho Phakeo, the national museum, is located in the city, as are the Dongsaphangmeuk Library and the National Library. At Vientiane the Mekong River is navigable only by small craft; passage to the right bank and the Thai railhead of Nong Khai was solely by ferry until 1994, when a highway bridge was opened. Vientiane has an international airport, and highways link the city with Louangphrabang and Savannakhet in Laos and with Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam. The Nam Ngum Dam north of Vientiane provides enough hydroelectric power for the surrounding areas and for export to Thailand as well. Vientiane's outstanding building is the That Luang, a stupa (temple), dating from about 1566 and restored by Lao civil servants under Prince Phetsarath during the French colonial period. The WWF office September month Laos get good rain, on the second day of my arrival, It was heavily raining in since morning; at 8.30 I called Sharon but she was not in the office, so I left a message for her. When she got the message she came down with her husband to Najim's guest house, then we moved to the office on foot in the rain. The office was not very far. She told me that she would go to Australia the next day. She won’t be able to help me in Laos. She introduced me to Mr. Robert Tizard, the WWF project director for Laos chapter and the rest of the staff. I told them my plans for Vientiane. Later, Sharon dropped me at the Indian Embassy, and invited me to dinner at her house. She gave me her address, and left. Indian Embassy I met second Secretary Mr. Reddy who allowed me to stay in a room, which was empty. When the staff came to know about my expedition they all provided financial support too. Three more staff members were living inside the Embassy Campus. In the evening, around 4 O'clock, I went to Sharon's house, but she was busy packing for Australia. I spent time with another family who would be staying in the absence of Sharon and John, from New Zealand - mother and daughter. The girl was perhaps thirteen years old, but very talented. They were staying in Tha Khaek, one of the towns in Laos. They asked me to come to their house to stay, as I would be walking through Tha Khaek. I got their address, and spent time talking a lot about Indian culture, and the environment. John (Sharon's husband) ordered Indian food for dinner from Nazim's Restaurant (a famous Indian food restaurant in Vientiane), which we all enjoyed, I wished Sharon and John for happy and comfortable journey and then at 10 O'clock I returned to my sleeping quarters. Change in Programme Purposely, I didn't visit the Vietnam Embassy because I didn't want to tell them about the expedition, otherwise I would be in trouble. And once they refuse the visa that's the end of my expedition. I was in touch with WWF-Vietnam and left everything on them. They were trying a lot, but they wanted to have some more time. First, my plan was to walk towards south of Laos, and enter Vietnam by Lao Bao (Laos-Vietnam Border), but because of the visa problem, I decided to do other way round: go by bus to Southern Laos, come back Vientiane by foot, get the visa, and move to Hanoi. It would help WWF-Vietnam to do the visa work, and they would get approximately a month's time. I got two different letters from Indian High Commission in Lao - one in the local language, similar to the one like the letter in Thai (Hindu Samaj), and another one for schools. Before leaving, Sharon arranged an interview with the "Vientiane Times", a famous News Paper in Laos. I met two nice young boys of my age; they were working for Kirloskar Pumps as the service Engineers for their water pump machines. Mr. Shriniwas Amrapurkar from Pune and Mr. Gaurav Bhalla from Delhi, both were staying in the companies headquarter. I met them in the embassy at one of the family's home last night. I found them very good jolly men; we became good friends in no time. Three is Indian Association in Vientiane, they also provided a little financial support. Language Regarding language: the official language of Laos is Lao, as spoken and written in Vientiane. As an official language, it has successfully become the lingua franca between all Lao and non-Lao ethnic groups in Laos. There are five main dialects in the country, each of which can be divided into further sub-dialects. All Lao dialects are closely related to the languages spoken in Thailand, northern Myanmar and pockets of China's Yunnan Province. Buddha Park & Pha That Luang It was 25th September, one of the Embassy staff took me to Buddha Park in his car, a trip of was around 30 Km. It was unbelievable and I was surprised to see many giant statues of Buddha as well as Ganapati, Shankar, Parvati and other Hindu Gods and Goddesses. I was really shocked to see those Hindu God and Goddess' statues, because all these countries are Buddhist countries, and you will hardly find people worshipping Hindu Gods and Goddesses. You can find Indian Culture similarities in this Park. The area is not very big but it's good to visit and spend some time at the bank of the Mekong River. We also visited Pha That Luang, a temple and a Museum in Vientiane. In the evening I went to a Photoshop and gave a film roll for developing and printing. Vientiane was very expensive: I paid around 50,000 K. I realized that I should have done it in Thailand, it would have cost me much less. Journey towards South God always helped me at times in the need. God either solved my problems or made it very easy: as I wrote above, my plan was to walk to south of Lao and enter Vietnam; but due to visa problem I decided to go the other way round - by bus to Southern Laos and walk up to Vientiane, get my visa and move to Hanoi). I came to know the day before (on 25th) when I was preparing to move that the Kirloskar boys (Shree and Gaurave) both are supposed to move on Sunday the 26th (evening) to Pakse on their official tour. It comes under Champasak Province, the southern end of Laos around 700 km from Vientiane. The only difference in our program was I would have moved early morning where as they planned to travel late evening. I decided to travel with them in their car. But instead of Sunday evening we left on Monday morning. Sunday we all enjoyed roaming around the city and meeting a few Indians in Mr. Amrapurkar’s Toyota car. Monday the 27th morning we moved towards Pakse in the same car. During the journey I came to know more about both of them. Mr. Shree had been staying in Laos since last two years and could speak very good Lao language. The other one was Mr. Gaurav, who was there for just two months, and had already completed more than a month. I enjoyed the beauty of the nature. Laos is one of the richest countries in terms of natural beauty. Shree told me that North Laos is much more beautiful than the south. I could imagine how beautiful would be when he showed a few pictures of Northern Laos. On the way to Tha Khaek we stopped at an Indian's house who was a friend of Shree, Mr. Abhi Sarkar. He was working for UNDP Laos. We had lunch at his house and moved on. Most of the time we got the damaged road and it took a lot of time. Pakse was more 200 km when we took break at a coffee shop at around 5 O'clock in the evening. The condition of the road for next 200 km was the worst road I have ever been on in my life. There were potholes large enough to swallow a body. I felt it's better to walk because of the bouncing. Moreover, it was night time, and the driver could not see the path clearly, so suddenly we'd be lifted almost 1 feet of our seat. The only remaining choice was to lift one's body off the seat. I felt like I was on an adventurous ride because rainfall started and the road become worse. At once we really fought to get the car wheel out which got stuck in a pothole, as it was slippery because of water. We got wet in rain to put stones in the potholes for getting our car back on the wheel. One of them said, "We are facing problems as if we are on an adventure tour." The other replied, "Yes, it's because of the adventurous person' (pointing to me)' traveling with us, and the problems are following him." Our adventure ended at midnight when we reached Pakse and got into a guest house at 2 am. Everybody was damn tired and slept immediately. In Pakse This was the 7th day in Laos. I spent time with them roaming around the city and doing their work. They were really good people. I enjoyed a lot with them and had a variety of Laotian food even they took me to the Cafes (Pubs) at night. I would not have visited Pubs because it needs lot of money and even you get prostitutes in the Pubs and I always wanted to be away from them. I knew in all these countries many people are affected with HIV & Aids. I know many people who supported me financially earned their money by hard work, and it has to be used for good work, not for sin. But both of them wanted to show me the life of Laos, and enjoy a little other than expedition. Shree told me that it is not necessary that I should enjoy with the girls, I could join there as a spectator. I agreed and went with them. As soon as I entered inside I heard Hindi song for the first time in these countries. I was surprised and excited; a girl was singing the song with the similar music background. I found Laotians enjoying and dancing to the tune of these songs. The fact about this town is that the original name is Pakxé and also spelled PAKSE, town, in the southern panhandle of Laos at the confluence of the Xédôn and Mekong rivers. Before 1966 Pakxé functioned as the chief port of entry of Laos. East of Pakxé begins the rolling Bolovens Plateau, nearly 3,300 feet (1,000 m) high, for whose products--teak, tea, cinchona, kapok, and cardamom--Pakxé is the distributing centre. The town's industries include several sawmills, manufacture of bricks and tiles, and an ice plant; there is also an agricultural experimental station, a criminal court of appeals, and a secondary school. In 1970 the Selabam Dam of the Mekong River Valley Plan opened on the lower Xédôn, providing electricity for Pakxé and irrigation for the surrounding region. Pakxé is linked by road to the Thailand border and to Cambodia. Culture Traditional culture in Laos has been heavily influenced by various strains of Khmer, Vietnamese and Thai cultures. The lowland Lao shares the same ancestry as many Thai tribes, so the similarities between Lao and Thai culture are especially strong. This can be seen in Lao sculpture, classical music, dance-dramas and cuisine. Lao folk music is more indigenous, based around the khaen (a double row of bamboo reeds fitted into a hardwood sound box). Folk music is often accompanied by dancing or bawdy theatre. The focus of most traditional art has been primarily religious and includes wats (temples), stupas and several distinctively Lao representations of Buddha. The Lao remain skilful carvers and weavers, but traditional silversmithing and goldsmithing are declining arts. VAAT PHO Temple 29th September, I was planning to start my work, the journey on foot, but when Mr. Shree told me about the presence of an historical Temple, I decided to stay back for one more day. I knew it would not make much difference to my expedition time table. We all moved to visit VAAT PHO Temple with one more local staff (who was working for Shree). It was an ancient temple and there was a story behind it – There were two Kings, one King who was ruling this side of the river (i.e. Pakse town in Laos) and the other across the river (Nakhon Phen town, now is the part of Thailand). Both they were wanted to build a temple, both the Kings engaged many people for the construction work of the temple. Initially none of them was aware about the temple construction. But when they came to know about it, competition started amongst them. The messenger from both side used to give the feedback of each others work to their King. Initially for few days the VAAT PHO messenger worked hard but later the messenger never turned. The VAAT PHO King sent another messenger, he too did not turn. The King sent messenger one by one for many days but found no one would come back. The King was very much worried and frustrated. Finally he sent his special messenger to check and to see what the problem was. He asked him to find out the reason. The special messenger saw many young girls working for building the temple but the important point to note was that they were all naked and he found all those messengers helping those girls for construction work. When the special messenger the believer, explained the story to the King, he got depressed, in depression he hit his left hand on the chest and killed himself. The temple is still incomplete, and now, whatever portion was built is not safe and would collapse any time. It was really a beautiful and memorable historical place. The King has a statue showing his left hand hitting the chest. Walk in Laos On 30th September and 9th Day of Laos I left Pakse early morning, on this route the habitation was very less and also the road was very dusty. I did not like to walk through this road due to inhabitation, dusty and damaged road. Shree & the other Local man told me that there would be only one small town after around 150 km rest is forest. I prepared my self to walk until afternoon and then hitchhike. I took fruits and noodles packet as my food for the day. Some how I continued the journey till afternoon for around 20 km and when I found that last 2-3 km I walked totally alone through forest belt, I thought of hitchhiking. I had the similar chit (Lao word for Hitchhike) written in Laotian language. For next two km few vehicles crossed me when I tried to stop the vehicle no one stopped. I knew if I show hand to 10 vehicles at least one would stop. And a car stopped, after few efforts, they were Laotians and the young man driving the car knew a little English. I showed him the chit and requested to drop me at Seno. They were very excited, a sweet young Laotian woman, wife of the man and an old man his father, were going to Savannakhet. We hardly had a talk due to language problem until I reach Seno in the evening. Police Trouble I had a very different experience in Laos. In Seno, when I visited the Police Station, the Police were afraid of writing anything on my record book. It became such a big issue that the whole Police Station came to know about me, i.e. A man has come from India and he wanted something but that “something” no body knew. Everybody was going through the Record Book but nobody was able to understand what I wanted. It was real big language problem that I faced in the Police Station. I tried my level best to explain the officer in a very easy language that any one would have understood who knew even a little English. I tried to explain to them with body language and previous records of Police Stations. I was going from one officer to other and when I tried to leave and decided not to take any stamp or anything those Police were not ready to let me. When I contacted the lower grade Policeman who pretended as if he knew very good English and took me to his Boss and explained (God knows what he explained) to his boss, his boss sent us to Savannakhet (main town of the province and around 40 km away). I was trying to tell them 'ok forget about everything, I do not want stamp or anything'. But those poor Policemen used to think that they are wise. I repeatedly told them to take me to the English teacher who would brief them instead they took me to the Savannakhet town at the Immigration Office. There I explained to the Immigration officer, who knew good English, and he then explained to those Policemen. They dropped me back to Seno without writing anything on the Record book. They were so afraid of writing anything on the Record book, as if something would happen to them or they would get in to trouble. No body was interested in writing even me. In Seno I stayed in a hotel; it was a very small town. I was damn tired for the whole lot of exercise with Police. I took a bath and took a round in the town. While taking a walk I met many girls who used to say "Sabai diiiiiii". Actually "Sabai di" means Namaskar - it's like wishing someone. I saw that only girls were wishing me not males, they used to give pretty good look and a big smile to me. I had dinner in a different hotel and went to sleep. It was almost 10.00 O’clock. Savannakhet On 2nd October, I reached Savannakhet, in the evening at 5.00 p.m. Once I thought of searching for the Police Station but it reminded me the last incident. There was no point in going to the Police Station though Savannakhet is the main town of the Province. I already visited the Immigration office with Seno Police and did not want to create problems there. I found the country was similar to Sri Lanka, poor people and every after some distance you get fruit stalls on the highways. Very few inhabited places, but the people are so good that they won't try to trouble you; they do not dare because many a time I have experienced that those people are the most timid people. It was the city situated at the bank of Mekong, and I could see Thailand from this end. I spent a pleasant time with the foreigners - those who were staying in the same hotel. The entire Sunday I spent with a young couple from England who were there on vacation. On Monday, the 13th day in Laos I moved out from the hotel carrying Posters and Stickers. I enquired about the High School, and people guided me to a school that was two-km from the hotel. I hoped that, at least, I could deliver my first speech in Laos after long time. I reached the school, contacted the English teacher, and showed him the letters given by the WWF and Indian Embassy in Vientiane, Laos (The letter that provides the information about me and the expedition which also requests the Schools, to allow speaking in their school). The teacher was very good; he asked me to wait for the Director who was little late on that day. I waited for long time but the lady Director didn't come so the English teacher took me to his class. It was my first school and first speech in Laos. As soon as I entered the class room, all the students wished me. This was the elderly children’s class. I found very few students understand English. When I found the students did not understand English, I changed my way of speech. I explained to them by drawing and writing on the board. I got complaints from the students that I should speak slowly. It was the first time they had heard an Indian accent or pronunciation. I delivered the speech slowly by using very simple English language so that the students could catch the accent. Moreover, I used to ask them sometimes "Khaooo Jaiiiii", meaning 'do you understand?' and sometimes I got positive reply and some time “Bo Khao Jai” meaning 'did not understand'. They used to clap and laugh for talking in their language. Sometimes the English teacher also translated, wherever difficulties faced. The speech was very much interactive. I understood that using board and drawing pictures was the effective way to deliver the speech. I was satisfied with the speech the way students asked questions. I enjoyed my time with the students; it was really a very good speech. After the speech girls had some personal questions like, what is your age? Do you have girl friend? Are you married? The teacher was also very nice; there was good freedom for all to ask the questions. The girls were of course very pretty, but when I used to tell them that I have a girl friend they'd feel jealous. The atmosphere was very friendly. Even the teacher asked me about my girlfriend. I got many compliments from the girls. Those small girls made me mad they wouldn’t let me out of the class. I spent more than an hour in that class. One of the teachers came and interrupted our question and answer session. She told us that the Director wants to see me. I went in to her cabin along with the English teacher and had a talk with her. The English teacher was very much impressed with the talk and friendliness with the students. He explained to the Director about the talk and my expedition. The teacher’s explanation made a good impact and she asked me if I wanted to talk to more students. I said 'it would be nice if I could get talk to more and more students. I requested her to gather senior students who would understand English. Within 10 minutes she arranged and gathered the students in a big common hall. There were around 100 students who knew a little English. I delivered the similar speech by drawing pictures on the board. The English teacher provided his assistance wherever required. I spent an hour here too and got the similar response from the students for the speech and similar questions from the girls and boys. Before leaving the School many girls came running for my autograph and address. I said goodbye to them and moved back to the hotel. In Laos you would spend a minimum of around 8,000 Kip, for food for a day, and hotel accommodation for cheap hotel would cost you minimum 20,000 Kip. Sebangfai I moved to Sebangfai, around 53 Km from Savannakhet. Both the side of the highway I saw many farms and in few farms I saw people are engaged in agricultural field work. I noticed one difference between farms in Laos and farms in other countries that you would find two to three trees in between the fields where as in other countries you wouldn’t get to see even a sing tree in between the fields or on the edges. I have seen, in all previous five countries, if there are farms, there you won't find even a single tree - only the crops for kilometres, whereas in Laos, there were crops on the farms, but in between the crops there were trees. On the fruit stalls mostly you find girls or married women and sometimes, old women. I used to rest at these stalls, eating fruits and chatting with the pretty girls and women. Many a time I got compliments from them. There was no problem at all on this road. I reached Sebangfai in the evening; it was another small town rather village. I got a hotel to stay and while I was out for the dinner I met a girl named "Mimi". She was Laotian but was staying in America. She was there on vacation. I had a very nice talk with her. I explained to her about the expedition and asked if she'd help me to deliver the speech in any school in Sebangfai. She replied positively and left. I did not finish my dinner and saw the girl "Mimi" came again and told me that she spoke to the school principal and he allowed to talk. She promised me that she would help me in interpreting. Mimi and I went to the school before 8 O’clock. As soon as we reached the school all students were looking at us. It was assembly time and the principal had invited the Dist. Education Officer. It was like an official program where they welcomed me in their traditional way and after Mimi introduced me, I took over the mike and started the speech. It was an open ground with around 500 students sitting there. Mimi was not confident talking in front of such a huge gathering but then she managed very well. I got a blackboard on which I used to draw and explain slowly and easy language. Sometimes I used to write difficult words on the board and the English teacher used to write the meaning in Lao language. I really used to enjoy the speech, I found that day by day my speech was getting better and better with additional information on the subject I have received the same response from the students as it was before in Savvannakhet. There was a river called Sebangfai River. After lunch I spent almost two hours at the bank of the river. There were a few other people sitting there. I tried to talk with them. It was almost 15 days that I spent in Lao and in those days I learnt a lot (again enough to survive). Lao language is similar to Thai and most of the people understand Thai language, as they get to see Thai TV Channels. Every time in each town, I was meeting good people, and they used to help me with the speech. I took another day halt in Sebangfai and visited one more school. The rest of the day I spent with Mimi, her cousin Tao, who was more beautiful than Mimi, and family. They wanted to show me the village, so I went with them and sat at the bank of the river chatting about Indian people, culture, and the environment. We spent a long time together; she took me to her house for lunch. She told me that she has already informed her mother that she would bring me along for lunch. I had a home made Laotian preparation "Khao Phat" (fried rice) as Mimi knew foreigners do not like Sticky rice. Rice is the foundation for all Lao meals, and almost all dishes are cooked with fresh ingredients such as vegetables, freshwater fish, poultry, duck, pork, beef or water buffalo. Lime juice, lemon grass and fresh coriander give the food its characteristic tang, and various fermented fish concoctions are used to salt the food. Hot chillies, garlic, mint, ground peanuts, tamarind juice, ginger and coconut milk are other seasonings. Dishes are often served with an accompanying plate of lettuce, mint, coriander, mung-bean sprouts, lime wedges or basil - diners then create their own lettuce-wrapped tidbits. All the family members treated me well. They, other than Mimi, were wanted to talk and spend time with me but due to the language problem we were unable to communicate much. Mimi helped on that front a little and I could talk a little with the help of one page phrase book, which I got it from a tourist information centre. [Tam Ruat (Police) Khaooo Jaiii (Understand?), Bo Khaooo Jaii (Not understand), Bo Pi Nyang (No problem), Sabaii Di (like Namaskar), Khop Chai (Thank You), La Kawn (Good Bye), Kin Khao (mostly the word used for sticky rice) and lot more]. I could understand a little Laotian language if one speaks slowly, but more from their body language, and by guess after catching one or two words. I played Badminton for more than an hour with Tao, the cousin. I played with her and enjoyed a lot. I told about my girlfriend when she asked me. God was providing so much of love to me that I really thanked Him a lot. I could feel the feelings those girls develop in such a short time but at the same time I did not wanted to Kip them in dark, unnecessary to hurt them. They should not involve themselves much and think only about a good friendship. Because I knew what love is as I deeply love some one in India. Tha Khaek The 17th day, after spending very good time with Mimi and Tao I moved ahead towards Tha Khaek, just 46 km from Sebangfai. I thanked Mimi and her sister and everyone who had become close friends of mine. It was again a very good walk people used to stare at me and a few school students used to talk to me in English. Mostly I used to have "wai-wai" (noodles) that could be eaten without cooking; it was very tasty and salty. While walking, the only problem was shoulder pain. Yesterday I played badminton with Tao and because of that the shoulders were paining. In the evening, after reaching Tha Khaek, I called up Mr. Robin whose wife Jude and daughter Chloie met me in Vientiane at Sharon's (the WWF girl) house. But there was no response from other end then I went to the Post office to find out his address considering he might be amongst few known foreigners but the Post office was closed. I was in trouble and was searching for an English speaking person. I was in the market and I saw a Toyota Car. By looking at it, I understood it was owned by a foreigner. It was of UXO Lao an NGO (It's an NGO, works in Laos for finding out the bombs, shells and mines dropped in Lao during Vietnam War by USA). I got an Australian fat man I wished and asked him if he knew Mr. Robin from New Zealand, he replied, "yes", I was very happy. I explained the fat Australian man about the expedition and requested him if he could drop me at his house. He tried to call him by his mobile but when he couldn't get him after calling at two-three places, he took me at the river side and tried to find him there. It was getting dark at 7.00 O’clock he dropped me at Mr. Robin’s house but his house was locked. I thanked the Australian man and waited for Mr. Robin outside the gate. After an hour he came home. He was in his car. I gave him reference of his wife, daughter and Sharon. I hardly had to explain him; he welcomed and told me, his wife and daughter had gone to Europe. He opened a guest room and after a while, we spent very less time chatting on expedition experiences. He was coming from a party and was tired. He had his laptop with him; he showed me CD's on Ozone and Global Warming. I watched them and gathered a few unknown points for my speech. There was nothing in his house except noodles. I could not have enough food as he was alone and had dinner in the party. His house was little inside, it was not possible to go out and have some food so I had noodles only. I had painkiller tablet for shoulder pain and slept. Mr. Robin knew a few schools, but he had his own work too. I told him not to worry about me, after breakfast, he dropped me at a school, but I couldn't find the English teacher so I moved to another school. It was Tha Khaek High School. I got two young female teachers, and one of them was good in English. She helped me a lot: she spoke to the director and got permission for me to talk with the students. I delivered the speech in two classes. The teacher was very happy and said, "It was good to listen to a good speech, and the students got to hear an Indian accent." After that she asked me if I could come back in the afternoon to deliver the speech in another classes. I replied that my mission is to spread the message so it doesn’t matter how many times I talk in a day. I had lunch in the hotel and came back to the school. I still had plenty of time, so I spent some time with one of the two teachers. She was very good, was much younger than me, and was studying in the university. She was highly impressed by my talk, and when the other teacher came we all traveled almost one and half km on their bikes to the technical division. There I delivered the talk in two classes. I spoke four times in a day - the maximum number of times I ever delivered the speech in one day, and it satisfied me a lot. The girls dropped me back at the school. The director gave me a letter wishing best luck for my journey, and the youngest teacher, Keong, asked me for dinner at the bank of the famous Mekong River. I knew Robin was not at home; he told me that he would go to Thailand for the holiday, i.e. Saturday, and would come home on Sunday afternoon. New Zealanders do not require visa for Thailand but a passport is a must, and he had given me the keys of the house. So I promised Keong I'd take dinner with her. In the evening she came to Robin's house and picked me up, we went to the bank of the Mekong River. She told me the history of Mekong River. It is the largest river on the Indochinese peninsula. The Mekong is about 4,000 kilometres long. It flows south-eastward from China's Qinghai province and forms part of the boundary between Thailand and Laos. The river crosses Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam before it empties into the China Sea near Ho Chi Minh City. In the region of the lower delta,the Mekong is known as the Sai Gon River. Ships can sail only about 550 kilometres up the Mekong. Farther inland, the river is interrupted by rapids and sand bars. We had a very good dinner with the good information; on the other side of the Mekong was Thailand, Nakhon Phanom city, where Mr. Robin would stay in the hotel for a night. The view was beautiful - we could see the lights of the big buildings. I believe the distance (width) might be not more than half km; as we could see the city clearly. It was amazing and beautiful at night. Laos was like a hut opposite to a big Bungalow. Mekong The River flowed between rich and poor. We spent almost two hours at the bank of the river and I really enjoyed the evening it was so romantic that I missed my girl friend a lot. Keong asked me if I wanted to go to the pub to dance. I replied, "No, nobody is at home and Mr. Robin asked me to take care as the back door is kept open for the cats'. With her help, I exchanged around 25 US$ whereas one US$ was equal to around 6,000 Kip. So I got around 150,000 Kip. She dropped me back where I paid the bill. I thanked her for helping me in exchanging my money, she left, and I was alone with the cats at home. Chloe, Mr. Robin's daughter, loves those cats a lot; they were twins and she found them at their gate of the house. I went to bed early. 19th Day It was Sunday the 10th of October. I went to one of the oldest wat (temple) on bicycle, but I did not like it. It was as simple as the most ordinary. Though there were many monks staying in the wat there was no maintenance. On the way home, I bought two eggs and bread for breakfast. In the afternoon, at 3 o'clock, Mr. Robin came back. He brought the News Paper where I got the news about India after such a long time. When Mr. Robin checked the mail, there was a letter for me stating WWF-Vietnam failed to do the visa work through the government, but would try in a different way. I was a little depressed. I always had to fight to achieve anything, but after hard work and running behind the job I always got the fruits. In the evening, we prepared chicken, which Mr. Robin bought in Thailand. One of his friends came - Mr. Pol, from England - for dinner. Mr. Robin introduced me to Mr. Pol and I got the usual response from him. When people come to know about the expedition they praise my work, and ask many questions about the expedition. I had beer with them during dinner and at night I watched a movie, "The Truman Show" I liked that movie very much and I would rate it as number one. It was the best of best and greatest movie I ever seen in my life. The actor was Jim Carey, and the movie was directed by an Australian director and written by a New Zealander. A funny experience I had a funny experience - no, it was not funny, but one could see the height of stupidity or understanding of some people in Laos. In a school, I contacted an English teacher, who was as stupid as I ever found. He was not at all good in English, could not understand me after explaining a lot. He took me to a class where students do not study English at all. When I could not speak Lao, how did the teacher expect me to talk to those students? Even though I showed him the letter from WWF, which explained everything in Lao, he still could not understand. It was just impossible to talk in front of those students. Later, he took me to another class of students were a little older than the previous class. They were also not studying English. I controlled myself, and looked at the teacher. I delivered the talk just by drawings and conveyed the message of planting trees. I spoke just for five minutes, as there was no point in talking where no one would understand. I came out of the class and gave the stickers and posters to the stupid teacher. I was damn angry on him and his behaviour. In the playground, I saw a few people playing Volleyball, I requested and joined them. After half an hour play I left and came back. In the evening I went on a bicycle ride with Mr. Robin. It was a different experience, and I understood how people like Robin, enjoy their life. We bought pieces of fried fish and chicken with sticky rice for dinner. On the 20th day, I got up early, had breakfast, and then knocked on to Mr. Robin's door. I thanked him and moved. Whenever I walked from any place the school students used to wish me, because by the next day whole school comes to know about me and a few watch me in their school. On this highway I met a man from Japan. He was on a bicycle expedition and started just 20 days back. He would travel through Vietnam (starting from Ho Chi Minh City), Laos, China, Tibet, Nepal, and India, and would end in Calcutta. I spent some time with him knowing the purpose and work, but he was not carrying any message for the world. We wished each other well, and moved ahead. I reached Nam Thone in the evening. There was a custom check post and a policeman who knew a little English; he helped me find accommodation. I got a cheap guest house and he invited me for dinner with the staff. I had Sticky Rice with delicious (hot chili) chicken. It was really a good dinner. At night I spent some time in a snooker-hall, watching people play. There I saw a kid, 4-5 years of age, and his mother she used to catch the flies or bees (flies that you see at night on the Tube light or bulb making a lot of noise) by using a stick. At the top of the stick there was a plastic bag. As soon as she touched that bee, it would fall inside the bag, and then she would give it to the kid to put it in the other bag that he was carrying. I would have screamed, if anyone had asked me to hold the bee, but I saw the kid had lot of bees in his bag. What he did was he plucked the legs and wings off the bee and put it in the bag. It's a fact. I couldn't believe, he used to run behind his mother and cry for the bee. I asked what they do with the bees. A man replied coolly, 'we eat them', (yuuukk!) 'bees are delicious and in Laos everywhere, you will find people running behind the bees at night to catch. Interpreter I went to Nam Thone High School in the morning, but as it was a small village, the English teacher was not able to speak English. He suggested me to go to a Malaysian person who lives nearby just opposite the school who spoke very good English as well as Lao. He would help interpret. His name was Jelang. When I explained to him about the expedition and purpose, he agreed to interpret. We both came back to the school. The school principal arranged a hall and gathered only senior students. Mr. Jelang did his job quite nicely and really he explained very well. The students as usual loved the session, and I gained a lot of respect from them. I thanked Mr. Jelang, and he wished me well for the journey. Later I spent most of the day learning about the village and enjoyed the beauty of nature. Paksan It was 22nd day, I moved to the next destination, and that was Paksan. I enjoyed each day with the Laotians. I had to hitchhike a little to reach Paksan. It was evening when I reached there and stayed in a guest house which was the most expensive I ever stayed in Laos: 40,000 K/ day. I saw few youths playing takraw, a popular game in South-east Asia. In many places I saw youths playing takraw. The light ball is made of wicker wound round and round. The game consists of keeping the ball in the air, and the players may hit it with their arms, knees, shoulders or feet-including heels. It looks simple, but demands a good deal of skill and stamina. I tried it many times in this part; often I would join in and play for an hour. When those people came to know about me they told me about volunteers from England. I asked for their address, but one of them drew a map and asked me to follow it. It was already getting dark and their house was more than three km from the guest house, still I thought of visiting them. The only problem, the house was little inside, and while going in, my leg sank in a dirty pond. Uhhhhhhhhhh! But still I moved ahead and knocked on the door. Robin (another Robin) and Lexy (Robins wife) welcomed me, but were surprised to see an Indian at their door. First I showed them my leg covered in mud and requested to use the bathroom. I washed my leg and then spent time with both. I explained my mission, and requested if I could get their help in delivering a speech in the local school. I learned that both of them teach English to the teachers, so Robin spoke to one of the schoolteachers and arranged the speech in Paksan High School. It was late night Lexy offered me her bicycle to go to the guest house because I could return it the next morning on my way to the school, as their house was on the way to the school. I got her bicycle and came back. Before I go to the school, I returned Lexy's bicycle, and met Mr. Sompasong in Paksan High School with whom Robin spoke last night. He welcomed me and arranged speech in the meeting hall. It was a very big hall where around 500 students were gathered. I got the same response from those students as in other places. While returning to the guest house, I visited Lexy again, and thanked her for her help. She gave me a book, which took many days to finish it. The name of the book was "Third Class Ticket" it was based on the true story of a Bengali Woman who gave her whole wealth to show India to her village people. It was a very good story, written by an English lady, who traveled with those villagers. Every day, during breakfast, I used to have bread with jam that I bought it in Thailand, and some times noodles or snacks and fruits. What food I used to get was sticky rice in the villages and fried rice (Khao Phat) in the towns. Food was very expensive then in Thailand. I believe the maximum amount of money I ever spent in Laos was because of hotel accommodation and food. I never compromised with food. Daily expense for food when I am stationed was around 25,000 K and 40,000 K on the days I walked. Hotel expenses were around 20,000 K per day, so Laos was very expensive for me. Not in any other country I spent so much money. In the evening I played Table Tennis with another group of people. I came back to the guest house, where the hotel owner introduced me to one of his relatives, who was from Canada. The hotel owner spoke very good English, so he came to know more about me. They talked a lot about their business. I spent a good time with them, had dinner in the hotel, and slept. On the 25th day, before leaving the guest house next day I paid the bill - just 40,000 K for two nights whereas I was supposed to pay him 80,000 K. In all the places I stayed, I paid 20,000 K for a night, and many people helped me in the expedition. I met the hotel owner's relative from Canada and understood that he was a rich man. Obviously, when the hotel owner saw 40,000 K, he asked me for another 40,000. I behaved as if I fixed up 40,000 K for two nights and showed the shocking expression on my face. He laughed and said "Bo pi Nyang" (No problem) he was really kind and must have understood that I 'played' with him. When I came out I really felt bad, but sometimes, when I remember the incident, I laugh alone. Ban Phaw There were no trees on the main road where I could take rest, but the fruit stalls were the best places where I used to have fruits, and enjoy a chat with girls, women and children. (You don’t get to see men because the stalls are run by the girls or by women). I used to get encouragement from them while walking. The appreciation that I was receiving from the girls, made me a 'super star’. On the way I met a man on the bike, who knew a little English. He saw me while going somewhere in the morning and found me again walking in the afternoon. He was so excited he requested me to stop and talk. I turned back and showed him the banner (one square feet) from Nepal, on which there was a picture of a Tree and a little space for writing. I wrote my message i.e. "Save earth" on the top of the tree and "Plant trees" at the bottom of the tree in Lao language, as I would do it in each country in their local language.] He read it and shook my hand, he said, "My sister's shop is near; she'd be happy if you join us for lunch." I declined at first, but ended up going with him. He took me to a market. His name was Nobang, something like that, there were many shops; we sat down at his sister's shop. All the shopkeepers (girls and women) gathered at a place in the shade, brought their own food packets, and sat down. There were around 8-10 shopkeepers. I really enjoyed being with them, although each one asked whether I am married or not. When they got the answer from me, they started pointing out to each other and were asking me which one I would like to marry, who is the most beautiful, and so on. I found Laotians eat a lot of chili. I had a variety of food with them, and it was delicious. I had to hitchhike to reach Ban Phaw, the next destination before Vientiane. There I found a check post and met an Officer who was good in English. I explained to him and requested help, but there was no hotel or guest house. So he spoke to the head of the village and explained him about me. I got accommodation at the house of a kind forest officer. But he did not know English at all. Here I had great difficulties due to language. It was 9 O'clock at night; they were having their dinner and asked me to join. I was hungry, and ate a very delicious mixture with sticky rice. (Next day I vomited when I came to know that I had mice last night in the dinner! I could not eat anything until the next evening). I got a lot of respect at his house, but had a really a funny experience before I went to sleep at 10.00. I wanted to go to the toilet, so I asked them, but had a real language problem – even body language was just impossible because they would have taken it otherwise. I tried a lot to make them understand but it was just impossible. Finally I got an idea, I had a water bottle with me; first I looked to see whether any female sitting around, and then showed them. I took the bottle, opened it, and held it in such a way that water came out from the bottle and suddenly both of them started laughing. Oh! My God what an experience it was! Finally I made them understand. They kept on laughing, one of them showed me the toilet and other went to tell the other family members. When I came back everybody, even I was laughing. Back in Vientiane The next day on 26th day, I thanked the family after spending a night and moved towards Vientiane, which I reached before 5 O'clock in the evening, by walk and immediately went to the Indian Embassy. The security Guard, Mr. Suresh, spoke to Mr. Reddy, the Second Secretary, as I had requested that I be allowed to stay; he knew that I would require time to get the visa for Vietnam. He told Mr. Suresh to allow me to stay in the same room where I stayed last time. The whole evening, I spent time with the Embassy staff - with Mr. Suresh, Mr. Prashant and Mr. Mahesh - and we had dinner together. At night I enjoyed a movie on television. Laotian Culture After spending so many days I got to know Laotian Culture. About 60% of Lao, mainly the lowland Lao and a sprinkling of Thai tribes, are Theravada Buddhists. Every Lao Buddhist male is expected to become a monk for a short period of his life, usually between school and starting a career or getting married. The main non-Buddhist 'religion' is phii worship, a spirit cult, which is officially banned. Hmong/Mien tribes practice animism and ancestral worship, and some follow a Christian version of the cargo cult, believing Jesus Christ will arrive in a jeep, dressed in combat fatigues. A small number of Lao - mostly the French-educated elite - are Christians. Laos is the least developed and most enigmatic of the three former French Indochinese states. A ruinous sequence of colonial domination, internecine conflict and dogmatic socialism finally brought the country to its knees in the 1970s, and almost ten per cent of the population left. Now, after a decade and a half of isolation from the outside world, this landlocked, sparsely populated country is enjoying peace, stabilising its political and economic structures and admitting foreign visitors. The lack of foreign influence offers travelers an unparalleled glimpse of traditional South-East Asian life. From the fertile lowlands of the Mekong River valley to the rugged Annamite highlands, travellers who have made it to Laos tend to agree that this country is the highlight of South-East Asia. Visa Extension It was 18th of October. In the morning I contacted Mr. Reddy and got the reference letter for Vietnam. I went to the Vietnamese Embassy and submitted the application form with the hope that God would help because WWF- Vietnam had failed to do anything for me. David, from WWF- Vietnam, told me that they were trying, but I left everything to God. I was tense and unsure, because the receptionist accepted only the application form, and asked for US$ 55 - the visa fees, but without Passport. I was happy only because she took the money. She asked me to come on 21st. My visa was valid only up to 21st of October in Laos so there was need for an extension. I went to the Immigration office and submitted the Passport for the extension until 25th of October. Also I went to the Vientiane Times, got the newspaper dated 5-7 October, and saw my story. It was very big news and conveyed a lot to the people of Laos to take care of our mother earth. I had been to WWF office. Sharon was not there, but Robert Tizard (WWF-Lao Project Director) was. I shared my experiences in Laos. He also supported me financially. When I told him about the school experience, he introduced me to Dr. Claus who was working with an NGO; his work was similar to mine - creating awareness amongst people, making people aware of the environmental problems, and asking them to take care of it. Dr Claus has projects and University students help him for the projects. He told me to come with him to deliver the speech in the University, and asked me to come to the office the next morning at 11 O'clock. In the afternoon, when I was in the office of the Indian Embassy, I met a girl - Shefali Sharma - who was Indian by birth but an American citizen. She was also working for the Environment. We were just talking to each other, and I told her about the expedition and my future plan. She was very interested in this, and wanted to spend some more time, so she asked if I could come for the dinner the next day. I promised her and went to collect my Passport. I got the extension till 25th of October. Then I surfed the Internet and sent a message to Mr. David and Mr. Quang (who was doing the visa work for me) about the submission of the application form at the Vietnam Embassy and requested them to do something as early as possible. I did lots of work today, most of the places I covered on foot. This was 28th day, in the morning I left with one of the Embassy staff, Mr. Mahesh, whose daughter was studying at the International School. I carried some posters and stickers to distribute to the school, but it was very strict: nobody could meet the Director of the school without prior permission. I spoke to the Director's secretary, and she spoke to the Director and got an appointment for the next day at 9 O'clock. I went back with Mr. Mahesh and requested him to drop me at Vientiane High School. I had a very bad experience in Vientiane High School. It's because few people do not think even a little for our mother earth. Actually, in Vientiane High School, I contacted the Director and requested permission to speak. He allowed me, then after gathering the students in a big hall I started the talk, but after ten minutes the director interrupted and said your time finished, I requested him to give me a few more minutes to complete the talk. But he did not listen. Still, I gave the posters and stickers to the school and came out of the class. The students felt bad because of their Director's behaviour and because they found the speech was interesting. Few students came out when the Director left and said sorry. I could see the disappointment on the students' faces. It was around 11 O'clock. I got Dr. Claus a little late in his office, and we went to the University, around 12 Km away. There were around 20 Students. They run a Nature club and plan to open a plant nursery. I had a different talk to those students and asked them to do as I was doing - visit schools, talk to the students, make them aware, and help our mother earth. In the evening I moved to Shefali's hotel (the American girl I met yesterday). Before that, I bought a new film roll, and printed a roll which cost me around 60,000 K; - far too expensive. Shefali was waiting for me in the hotel. We went out for dinner, spent lot of time talking about my future plans and dreams of the organization that was not registered, and how I could achieve or fulfill them. She guided me a lot and gave me her e-mail address. She asked me to keep in touch with her after the expedition or whenever I start work for the Plan. We had dinner at famous Nazim's Restaurant, and came back. International School Next morning, I went to the International School for my appointment with the Director. All the teachers and staff were from various countries, all polite, soft-spoken, and very nice. I explained to the Director and requested permission to speak with the students. The Director was very nice; he left his chair and sat besides me on the other chair. He asked me to give a small talk or example. I gave him the example of paper wastage and trees being cut because of wasting papers. He was very impressed. He asked me more about myself and called one teacher to arrange the talk. There was half an hour to spare before the talk. The secretary took me to the café and offered snacks. When the Director and I came out of his cabin, he introduced me to everyone. Most of them were aware because they had all read about me in the newspaper. Later a teacher took me to a class. I found those students were the children of Embassy staff, so I got students from various countries to deliver the talk. But I found those students had no manners and I understood that those would never help to improve the conditions of our mother earth though they listen to me carefully. The teacher, who was there, appreciated a lot and praised the talk, then he offered me a glass of juice. In the evening again I surfed the net and got an e- mail from WWF-Vietnam from Quang, stating he had sent my Visa Reference Number to the Vietnamese Embassy on 19th. I was feeling great and it was confirmed that I would be getting my visa. I thanked God again and again. Vietnam Visa The 21st October, when I went to the Vietnamese Embassy early in the morning, the secretary asked me to come at 10.00. Again when I went at 10.00 she made me wait till 11.30. So I waited. I saw her sitting and chatting with the staff without doing any work. I was not alone; there were a few more foreigners and the lady kept them waiting also. Later, the lady came and asked me to come back at 2.00. I got so frustrated and was very angry on the lady, but I had to keep my patience until I got the visa. At 2.00; I returned to the office and she gave me the news that I wouldn't be getting the visa. Oh! No! It was like a heart attack for me. I showed her the fax with its Visa Reference Number I got yesterday in the Indian Embassy. She replied, "Oh! You are the one. I am sorry. If you had showed it to me this morning, you would have got the visa immediately!" I got angry to her this very reply. These people work looking at the face or country and decide by their own to give or not. They do not want to check the papers and do not want to work the way they should and for the purpose they are there. Or they should tell the person that they would not get a visa, rather than keeping them waiting unnecessarily, and asking them to come everyday. Anyway, I was very happy to get the visa of Vietnam, the 7th country of the expedition, and I was very excited. The visa was valid for 40 days, up to 30th of November. Cambodia Visa On the 22nd; I had time to go to Vietnam, so I thought of trying for my Cambodian visa. I filled out the application form and asked the lady, how much time it would take to get the visa. She told me on Monday, and it was Friday. It was not possible for me to wait until Monday, so I was about to leave the office, but an officer stopped me and told that I would get the visa today at 4 O'clock. I submitted the application form, paid the visa fees 25 US$, and was happy. At 4pm; I got the visa for Cambodia for a month. In Bangladesh the first time, I faced lot of problems in getting a visa for Myanmar as well as Thailand, which I didn't get. But I came to Thailand after crossing the barriers and got the "on arrival" visa. In Thailand I struggled a lot to get the Laos visa, and finally I got it, when only two days were left to get out of Thailand. Next I fought for the Vietnam visa and got it when the validity date of Laos's visa was over. But before that I extended it for 4 days. And this time God has given me fruits of my hard work without any problem - in a day, I got the Cambodian visa. Last day in Vientiane 32nd day, it was last day in Vientiane and on Sunday I would head towards Vietnam by bus, so I visited almost all the places of those who helped me. I thanked them all. Everybody wished me well for the journey, and many of them said they would miss me. I had lunch at Mr. Mahesh's house (Embassy Staff). I could see Sharon and John again during dinner at Nazeem's Restaurant. I really enjoyed Vientiane a lot. On the 33rd day, I got my rucksack ready and moved on the way towards Laxao (The nearest border town). It was raining that morning, and I hoped somehow I could reach Laxao after crossing Paksan. Actually, the distance was not all that far, but because of the road and heavy rain, I didn't reach there until late evening. I spent a night in the hotel in Laxao. I did not had Lao Kip with me, and so I was paying in US$. About Laos The official Name is Lao People's Democratic Republic. It is located in South East Asia at the centre of the Indochinese Peninsula between latitude 14-23 degrees north and longitude 100-108 degrees east. France ruled Laos as part of French Indochina for more than 50 years. In 1954, an international agreement recognized Laos as an independent, neutral nation. But civil war broke out in 1960 between Laotian government troops and the Communist-led Pathet Lao (Lao Country) forces. Another international agreement in 1962 failed to settle the differences, and fighting continued throughout the 1960's and early 1970's. In 1975, the Pathet Lao won the war and took control of Laos. Laos has an eastern border of 1,957 km with the Socialist Republic of Vietnam, a western border of 1,730 km with the Kingdom of Thailand, a southern border of 492 km with the Kingdom of Cambodia a northern border of 416 km with the People's Republic of China and a North Western border of 230 km with the Union of Myanmar. The total area of Laos is 236,800 square kilometres, three quarters of which is mountainous and forest-covered, while the country is rich in natural resources, such as mineral deposits, including 1 billion tons of high quality iron ore between 60-70%, lead, gold, tin and 8200-8232 calorie/gram coal. Although other Lao P.D.R. has no direct access to the sea, it has the Mekong River, which is the main river of the country flowing north to south. In addition, there are many branch rivers, which nourish agriculture. Laos's people use it as a power source, which supplies hydro-electric of over 18,000 MW from 57 dams. The Population of the Lao P.D.R. is approximately around 5.2 Million. And population density remains one of the lowest in the region at 23 persons per square kilometre with a population increase rate of 3.50 %. The Lao population is ethnically diverse with up to 68 different ethnic groups identified inhabiting the country, with various languages, cultures and traditions, which are classified into three groups: The first one Lao Loam, occupies the lowlands plains and the Mekong River valley, and constitutes about 56% of the total population. The Second, Lao Thing, occupies the mountain slopes, comprising about 34% of the population. The third, high mountain Lao constitutes about 9% of the total population, and one per cent foreigners. Laos has suddenly become bomb-happy, and travelers are advised to avoid heavily-populated public places that might appeal to terrorists and tourists - the morning market in Ventiane for instance. Travel in rural areas, particularly Xieng Khouang Province, is complicated by ethnic conflict and banditry; generally speaking, any route that has 'special' in its name, such as the road through Xaysomboune Special Zone, has to be treated with caution. Taking drugs in foreign countries is always going to be iffy, but it's especially risky in Laos. Reports have begun to filter back of tourists dying from opium overdoses. Culturally, about 60% of Lao, mainly the lowland Lao and a sprinkling of Thai tribes, are Theravada Buddhists. Every Lao Buddhist male is expected to become a monk for a short period of his life, usually between school and starting a career or getting married. The main non-Buddhist 'religion' is phii worship, a spirit cult, which is officially banned. Hmong/Mien tribes practise animism and ancestral worship, and some follow a Christian version of the cargo cult, believing Jesus Christ will arrive in a jeep, dressed in combat fatigues. A small number of Lao - mostly the French-educated elite - are Christians. Laos is one of the poorest and least visited countries in the world. The Lao people are known for their gentle polite nature and for their charming hospitality. The capital, Vientiane, is one of Asia's biggest villages, sitting on the banks of the Mekong River. To the north, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the old Royal city of Luang Prabang is home to dozens of temples and a way of life that has changed little over the years. In the south the Angkor era temple of wat Phu is one of the jewels of the Mekong. Laos is the least developed and most enigmatic of the three former French Indochinese states. A ruinous sequence of colonial domination, internecine conflict and dogmatic socialism finally brought the country to its knees in the 1970s, and almost ten per cent of the population left. Now, after a decade and a half of isolation from the outside world, this landlocked, sparsely populated country is enjoying peace, stabilising its political and economic structures and admitting foreign visitors. The lack of foreign influence offers travellers an unparalleled glimpse of traditional South-East Asian life. From the fertile lowlands of the Mekong River valley to the rugged Annamite highlands, travellers who have made it to Laos tend to agree that this country is the highlight of South-East Asia. The Currency of Laos is keep (1US$=8,000). The flag has a red horizontal stripe at the top and the bottom, and a blue horizontal stripe in the centre. A white circle appears in the centre of the flag. The red symbolizes the blood and soul of the Laotian people. The blue stands for prosperity. The white circle represents the promise of a bright future. It was adopted in 1975. Environmentally, Laos is bordered by Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, China and Myanmar (Burma). Rivers and mountains dominate the country's topography. The largest river, the Mekong (Nam Khong), runs the entire length of the country, providing fertile flood plains for agriculture and forming the country's border with Thailand. It is also Laos' main transportation artery. Over 70 per cent of the country consists of mountains and plateaus. The Annamite Chain, bordering Vietnam, runs parallel to the Mekong for half the length of the country. The rugged mountains average between 1500-3000m (4920-9840ft) in height, and at their southern extremity open up to form the Bolaven Plateau, a 10,000 sq km (6200 sq m) area that produces mountain rice, coffee, tea and other high-altitude crops. The highest mountain is Phu Bia (2819m/9246ft) in northern Laos. Two-thirds of Laos is forested and only 10 per cent of the country is considered suitable for agriculture. Given the topography, it is fortunate that Laos has one of the lowest population densities in Asia - around 18 people per sq km (about 11 per sq mi). Most of the population is settled along fertile river valleys, although there are many small tribes living in the hills. The largest population centres, Vientiane and Savannakhet, are both in the Mekong River Valley; 85 per cent of the population lives in rural areas. Despite large-scale bombing and the use of defoliants in the eastern section of the country during the US war with Vietnam, Laos has one of the most pristine ecologies in South-East Asia. Vegetation consists primarily of varieties associated with monsoon forests such as teak, Asian rosewood and bamboo. About 50 per cent of the country is covered with primary forest and another 30 per cent with secondary growth. The forests are endangered by illegal logging and slash-and-burn agriculture Endemic animals include the concolor gibbon, snub-nosed langur, lesser panda and raccoon dog. Exotic species found in neighbouring countries are usually found in greater numbers in Laos because of the forest cover and fewer hunters. They include the Javan mongoose, Siamese hare, leopard cat, tiger, Irrawaddy dolphin, and a few Javan rhinos thought to survive in the Bolaven Plateau. There are 17 recently-opened Biodiversity Conservation Areas scattered throughout the country. The annual Asian monsoon cycle gives Laos two distinct seasons: May to October is wet, and November to April is dry. Temperatures vary according to altitude. In the Mekong River Valley, the highest temperatures occur between March and April (38°C/100°F) and the lowest between December and January (15°C/59°F). During most of the rainy season, daytime temperatures average around 29°C (84°F) in the lowlands and 25°C (77°F) in the mountain valleys.


Vietnam


Entry

It was 25th of October, and another great day of the expedition. The Border was 36 Km and today was the last day of the Laos visa. Hotel staff told me that there would be a bus going to the border early in the morning, so next day I moved out at 5.45 a.m. It was raining a little. I went to the bus station and enquired, but learned there were no buses going to the border. The tuk-tuk (A three wheeler vehicle) fellow demanded more money to drop me. I said 'no way,' and began walking. After a Kilometre I saw many trucks. I was very happy and again God helped me: if I had walked the full distance of around 36 Km; God knows whether I would have reached safely or not. I requested a truck driver to drop me at the border but he refused. There was one more driver, who knew a little Lao and I think he read the banner. He called me and told he would drop me at the border. I sat down in his truck, and after he finished his washing and breakfast, we moved off.

It was good that I reached on that spot early morning because all trucks were going towards Vietnam. They spent the night at that spot, and one by one, were moving towards the border. The driver knew very little English, but he was really a kind and nice person. On the way, rain started, heavy rain, as we were going up and up crossing the hills and thick forest. Looking at the route, I thanked God, because it would have been really difficult on foot and would have got me into trouble. The road was bad with lots of turns. At last we reached border at Cau Treo. It was still raining heavily and the atmosphere was foggy.

The Lao Immigration check post was yet to open. I waited in the office premises until it opened at 8.30; got the stamp on the passport, and moved towards Vietnam Immigration. It was 200-300 mtrs from Lao check post. While crossing that distance I saw many more than 200 cars were parked. You won't believe those cars were brand new, and I was really shocked to see them lying in such condition. I think they were seized by customs.

Within five minutes I took my first steps in Vietnamese territory - Cau Treo, the name of the border of Laos and Vietnam. The formalities for being admitted into Vietnam seemed diabolically complicated. Repeatedly I was shuttled back and forth through the darkness from Police to customs officers. Then, while innumerable forms were being completed, my documents were checked. The passport was checked again and again. I stood shivering out side the warm offices. Suddenly a Policeman shouted to some one in another room and a beautiful young woman, wearing customs officer's uniform, appeared besides me. I stared at her; she took one quick look at my rucksack and me and asked to take out everything out of the rucksack. When she saw the photographs of the school speech, she enquired and then burst into good-humoured laughter, slapped me on the back, and waved me towards the frontier.

I had a very different picture about Vietnam: it would be a city, many people would be there, and it would be busy check post. But when I entered after completing all formalities, I got a totally different and opposite picture of what I expected. I was alone with rainfall and fog. I enquired of the officer about the nearest village or any transportation available to go to Vinh or Hanoi. The officer guided me to the same taxi-driver whom I already asked, and he said US$ 40 to go to Vinh, whereas Vinh was just 106 Km. I laughed and told him 'I would not have taken so much pain if I'd had to pay $40 to you. I would have gone by air from Vientiane to Hanoi for $70'. I thought of walking, but I was scared because of fog, rain, and giant mountains with thick forest. I started walk, but the taxi drivers followed me and forced me to seat inside. I told them I do not have money but they would not leave me alone. They were behaving in such a way that I did not have any option other than going by taxi. They made me irritated. I returned back to the post and found the same truck. I showed him my hand, and he was so kind he just laughed looking at me and said, "Come in."

It was still raining but the Vietnam roads were good. We were going through the hills, but this time we were going down. I saw the farms in the villages; the crops were so full of water, it looked like a flood.


The Language problem

The driver dropped me in Boi-Vot. It was a small town, and Vinh was still 20 Km. I thanked the driver and was searching for the bank for exchange. It was 11.30; and I was in the same situation again: I was scared of the people. . They were talking in Viet Vinh.... Vinh... means do you want to go Vinh? Those people followed me everywhere.

In Vietnam, for the first time, I saw people using motorbikes for carrying people from one place to another. I tried to find at least an English speaking man who would help me. Those people didn't know English and I didn't know Viet - I did not even have a phrase book so that I could have told them about the exchange. I was hungry and was desperate to find someone who knew English. I tried searching big buildings, but in such a small town, you hardly get big buildings. I was stuck and those people were always behind me.

I saw a Vietnamese Flag on a two-storage building, and I went inside with the hope that I would get somebody who would know English. But it was very difficult to find a person who speaks English in that town. I was scared because it was my first day and I did not know how Vietnamese are. I saw a person, who looked like an Indian, sitting in a small open hotel. I caught him and asked do you know English? He replied, "Yes". I thanked God and sat down with him. I explained to him that I needed to exchange some money for local currency, and requested, he help me. His name was Mr. Kanna; he was a Malaysian, but Indian origin. I was very happy to meet him. He gave me 200,000 Dong and said, "You did not have to worry about exchange it would be enough for you to reach Hanoi." He offered me lunch and after lunch he asked a motorbike person to drop me up to Vinh. But I refused, when I came to know a little about these people and the distance was not far, just 20 Km, I said, “I will walk”. I thanked him for his guidance and support.


Journey towards Hanoi

It was a nice walk. I reached Vinh in the evening at around 6 O’clock. There was a bus to Hanoi at 4.30 every morning. I booked the ticket for the next day and paid 31,000 Dong only. I had no other option than spending the night in Vinh. I searched for a cheap hotel, but faced language problem. I went to a big hotel thinking I would get someone who would know English and spoke to a girl at reception. She was good in English. I requested her to help me find a cheap hotel.

She was so nice. She came with me, and after just two or three buildings, there was a guest house. She spoke to the lady and got a room for 50,000 Dong. I thanked her; she was the first Vietnamese kind girl I met. I paid the money and went in. Now I was with around 70,000 Dong. I had dinner with 20,000 Dong and spent some time in the market. It was beautiful, this was not a small town; I was tired, did not felt like going around and visiting the places, hence returned to the guest house immediately after dinner and got a sound sleep.

Next day the bus timing was 4.30 a.m. so I got up at 4 O'clock, left the guest house before 4.30 and got in to the bus. There was a German person sitting with me just beside my seat. He was about to leave Vietnam - he had already spent around two weeks here, so I got a little information from him about Vietnamese people.


Welcome at WWF

We reached Hanoi at 11.30 He was wanted to go to his friend's house and I had to go to the WWF office. The WWF office was also on the way to his friend's house, so we travelled together, I got down near the office where as he went to his friends house. As soon as I entered the office, the whole WWF staff welcomed me. I met Mr. Quang and Ms. Dip Hoa - David and I used to get their mail. They all greeted me very happily. I was so excited to have such a kind welcome from every one. It was the first WWF office that I became attached to, and God knows how I was attached to everyone there, probably because we used to mail each other many a time and developed a different kind of relationship.

I had lunch with the staff. Later, I requested Quang to show me the Indian Embassy, which was situated just five minutes walk from the WWF office. Mr. Quang asked one of the staff members to take me there.


Indian Embassy in Vietnam

Met Mr. Varma, Second Secretary, Indian High Commission in Vietnam (Mr. Reddy from Laos Embassy, asked me to contact him as he spoke to Mr. Varma about me and told he would mail him). He welcomed me as he knew about me; still, I explained to him and showed my file and photographs. I did not have to explain much. He called one of the Security Officers (Mr. Raghu) and asked him if he wished to accommodate me in his house. Mr. Raghu replied positively without any hesitation. His house was inside the Embassy Campus as it was in Laos. Mr. Raghu, in the first meeting, told me that I should consider him as a brother and ask for anything I need.

I kept my rucksack, took bath and went back to the WWF office. I explained my plan and the work I hoped to do in Hanoi, but David said it would be difficult to do any kind of such activity because it was a communist country, and I might get into trouble. Still, I requested him to provide a letter in Vietnamese language, explaining about the expedition and my purpose in visiting schools.


Interview

I spoke to Ms. Hac (one of the WWF staff) who takes care of awareness camps through schools and street shows in the city and villages. One of the newspaper reporters interviewed me in the WWF office.


Indian Friends

In the evening, before I left the office, Mr. Quang called me and supported me financially on behalf of WWF-Vietnam. I thanked David for financial support and came back to the Embassy. There was another security guard - Mr. Praveen Kumar, who was also staying in the same house. Both were really kind and took care of me as if I was their own brother. Mr. Raghu called his friend to introduce me he was Mr. Ranjeet from Mumbai and very nice, talkative and jolly person and Mr. Prakash. Mr. Ranjeet was an orphan but now he has become a very important and rich person after doing lots of hard work. We spent a long time chatting together, and went to bed at midnight.


First School Programme in Vietnam

On 27th October, I went to the WWF office. Ms Hac has fixed up the speech in one school, but before that, we both visited the Thailand Embassy and submitted the application form. The officer called me the next day at 10.30 in the morning. I was not much worried about Thailand visa because I knew I would get it, looking at the Cambodian visa and Thailand "On Arrival" visa.

Later we went to a school but understood that getting into any school, in Hanoi at least, would be very difficult. People are not allowed without the permission of higher authority. The first two schools refused me permission to talk with the students - even Ms Hac requested on behalf of WWF. At last we got permission in the third school, as it is said that without trying, you won't get success. The teacher arranged my talk only after an hour and we got the students of 6th grade standard.

There was a projector instead of black board, so I used the projector and got the usual response, or I think more, because that time students run for the autograph after the speech.

Ms. Hac could not believe it. When we came back to the office, she explained the experience of the school students and then everybody understood what kind of talk I delivered in the schools during my expedition. The staff tried to call Vietnam Television news reporters and many other famous newspaper reporters.

Mr. Verma gave me a letter similar to the one I got in Thailand as well as in Laos in local language, so that I should not face any trouble. That kind of letter helped me a lot in Laos when I used to go through villages. The letter was the best media to communicate with the villagers. Once they come to know about the work that I do, they come forward to help.


Going around in Hanoi

In the evening I enjoyed roaming in Hanoi with one of the Indians, Mr. Prakash. By now many Indians came to know about me, so one or another used to come to meet me or sometimes people invite me to their place. Hanoi was not a very big city. Clean roads, beautiful houses, and lots of girls. Regarding Vietnamese girls, I found they were crazy for Indians. It was amongst one of the peaceful capitals I visited. In the evening we went to see Ho Chi Minh Museum, spent the whole evening there, and enjoyed it a lot.

The expedition was in phases, like in first Phase India, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Bhutan and Bangladesh (where the worry was of getting visas for Sri Lanka and Bangladesh). The second phase was

Myanmar, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand (where worry was of getting visa for each country, and I didn't get visa for Myanmar, but got the rest with lots of arguing & difficulties). The third phase was Malaysia and Singapore, and the final phase Indonesia and Australia. So the third phase completed when I got the visa for Thailand, I was tension-free. It was 28th October. I got the Thailand visa after paying 15 US$.


Viet Food

In the WWF; we had a big party during lunch, as one of the staff, Mr. Peter, had completed his tenure and would go back to his home country. So it was send-off time. I tried various Vietnamese dishes and they were delicious. I was back to enjoying vegetarian food. Vegetarian food is "an integral part of the diet here. I just had this awesome black and red bean chilli onion, garlic number on rice or "lice" as we say here, and sweet and sour veggies, topped off with some Vietnamese tea and deep fried bananas with chocolate sauce. Vietnamese cooking, like most aspects of Vietnamese culture, has been strongly influenced by the Chinese. By comparison it is provincial, lacking the range and the formidable ingenuity of the Pekinese and Cantonese cuisines. Vietnamese cuisine is especially varied - there are said to be nearly 500 different traditional dishes, ranging from exotic meats such as bat, cobra and pangolin, to fantastic vegetarian creations (often prepared to replicate meat and fish dishes). However, the staple of Vietnamese cuisine is plain white rice dressed up with a plethora of vegetables, meat, fish, spices and sauces. Spring rolls and steamed rice pancakes are popular snacks, and the ubiquitous soups include eel and vermicelli, shredded chicken and bitter soups. Some of the more unusual fruits available include green dragon fruit, jujube, khaki, longan, mangosteen, pomelo, three-seed cherry and water apple.

Vietnamese coffee is excellent. But there are a few specialities, which have evolved with a great deal of dietetic insight. The best known of these is Cha Gio, with which we were served as an entrée. Cha Gio consists fundamentally of very small, highly spiced meat-rolls, which are transferred easily enough with chopsticks from the dish to one's plate. But this is nothing more than a preliminary operation and many dexterous manipulations follow. Two or three kinds of vegetable leaves are provided as salad, plus minute spring onions. A leaf of each kind is picked up and -this is not so easy- placed in superimposition on one's plate and garnished with onions, ready to receive the meat roll in the middle. And now comes the operation calling for natural skill, or years of practice, since the leaves must be wrapped neatly round the narrow cylinder of mincemeat. The Cha-Gio, now fully prepared, is lifted with the chopsticks and doused in the saucer of nuoc-mam at the side of one's plate, from which, according to Ms. Hoa, an odour resembling that of tiger's urine arises. The total operation takes the non-expert, like me, several minutes and involves as many contretemps as one would expect. On this occasion, I soon gave up the struggle, throwing dignity to the winds, and dabbled happily with my fingers. A spirit of comradeship was noticeable, a democratic kinship born in an atmosphere of common endeavour, frustration and ridicule. After the Cha Gio, came a flux of delicacies, designed undoubtedly to provoke curiosity and admiration and to provide the excuse for enormously prolonged dalliance at the table, rather than to appease gross appetites. The Vietnamese picked judiciously at the breasts of lacquered pigeons, the sliced coxcombs, and the tiny diaphanous fish. It was the first time I ever had a variety of Vietnamese food.

After enjoying lunch with them at around 2 p.m. Ms. Hac and I left for the speech in one more school. It was a much better school, and arrangements were very good. The projector with transparencies was on the dais and there were more than 100 students in the hall. We were carrying posters in Viet language. We distributed posters and stickers and at the end of the speech, again the same scene: students were rushing for autographs. It was very good that I got students from the English class because here, also, a language problem continues. The response from the student was very good and even Ms Hac told the school Principal to contact the WWF for more activities in the school. Dip Hoa, who writes sometimes for newspapers, wrote an article on me and asked for a photograph.


Languages in Vietnam

In Vietnam regarding language, the Vietnamese language (kinh) belongs to the Mon-Khmer stock, which comprises Mon (spoken in Burma) and Khmer (the language of Cambodia), as well as Khmu, Bahnar, Bru and other languages of the highlands of Vietnam. Mon-Khmer, Tai and Chinese elements are combined with many basic words derived from the monotonic Mon-Khmer languages. The most widely spoken foreign languages in Vietnam are Chinese (Cantonese and Mandarin), English, French, and Russian, more or less in that order.


Busy with Interviews

The next morning, I saw my news in Lao Dong and Tian Phong newspapers, with very good photographs. Mr. Ranjeet picked me up early in the morning in his car, and took me to meet a few Indians. Everyone was proud of me, all wished me well for the journey, and asked me to continue the same work in the future.

Mr. Ranjeet dropped me back at the Embassy. Mr. Raghu and Mr. Kumar were taking a lot of care of me, constantly asking me always if I need anything. When I went to the WWF office, everybody congratulated me on the news coverage and said, "You have become the star in Hanoi". I might have spent an hour, only a reporter came from a magazine - 'Vietnam Review' and began interviewing me; but what a time it was, I was never so busy with interviews. The television reporters came to the office with the camera, but they had to wait until the magazine reporters finished their interview. Then the turn came of Vietnam T.V. They interviewed me, and for shooting, they asked me to carry the rucksack. We went in their car, I carried my rucksack and then they did shooting at a famous lake site. There was the same banner on the rucksack with Viet language (Dip Hoa helped me write the message in Viet). The staff said, "All Vietnam will watch you today in the news on Vietnam TV."


Party time with Indian friends

At night I enjoyed going out with my Indian friends. They took me to the Indian hotel for dinner. I had dinner with beer. We got to see my interview in the news on Vietnam TV. Then we went to a pub also and really enjoyed ourselves. I spent the night with Mr. Prakash at his house. It was almost 2 O'clock in the morning when we got home.


Change in outfit

It was 30th of October. Mr Prakash and I got up late in the morning. After that I went roaming with Mr. Prakash in Hanoi city on his bike. I did a little shopping, and bought Track Pants (Waterproof) of Adidas, which costs me 4,50,000 Dong, and an Umbrella, because of the rainy season. I also bought a pair of shoes that costs me 300,000. I wanted to buy another rucksack - its bottom part was damaged a lot, but then thought of buying in Ho Chi Minh City.


Cricket fever

The whole Sunday, I enjoyed with the Embassy staff, playing Cricket. There were around 25 people gathered on the ground and more than 50 were sitting in the audience. I met Pakistanis, Sri Lankans, Australians, New Zealanders, and many other countries. One or two people were there from each country. Mr. Raghu told me that in the coming month there were Cricket tournaments and each country had their own team. Every Sunday they enjoy Cricket as well as it was a kind of get together. Mostly everybody's family comes to see, to enjoy and to encourage all. I have seen unity amongst those people. There was no castism or countryism; everyone was friendly, and even Pakistani were the friends of lots of Indians. I found the same thing in Laos also. I do not understand when Indians and Pakistani's live peacefully together in other countries, then why does Pakistan want to fight with India? Or why India wants to fight with Pakistan? Why not live peacefully and happily? We enjoyed a lot, but because of rain, we had to call off the game. We had lunch - as one of the players run an Indian Restaurant, he brings lunch packets every Sunday, and everyone pays for it. Later, I moved with two Indians - Tiju and Pankaj - they were working with Cipla, a pharmaceutical company. They gave me lots of medicines with vitamin tablets. Tiju drove me back to the Embassy.


Leaving Hanoi

I booked the ticket for Vinh and thanked everyone as I would leave and would not see them again. I was supposed to start my journey from the town where I entered Vietnam, because Hanoi was at extreme north and I wanted to go south. Just to complete the documentation part, to spread the message effectively, I was in Hanoi. The town Vinh was around 300 Km. I got into the Bus at 12 noon and reached Vinh in the evening.

I stayed in the same guest house, but this time the old lady and her family welcomed me with respect and laughter, because they had seen my news on TV. I was not having many problems with language, because I got a phrase book of Vietnam from one of the WWF staff who would leave for his home country - Mr. Nathan from the USA.


Vinh City

In Vinh I had the same problem with the police as in Laos. When I the visited the police station they were scared to write anything on the record book. It was the 2nd November, the first time I had Vietnamese breakfast. It was PHO (it's kind of noodles but made up of rice with pieces of Pork in it) it was delicious and energetic. After breakfast, I went to the same Big Hotel where the girl was who had helped me with accommodation when I entered Vietnam, and was in Vinh on very first day. She happily greeted and welcomed me and said, "I didn't know, you are such a great person." Her name was Ms. 'Mai' she was very excited and asked me if I wanted something to drink or eat. I thanked her but she offered me a glass of fruit juice. I enquired about the school. She asked me to go to the Language Centre at the Continuing Education Centre.

As soon as I entered the gate, the security guard stopped me, but when I told him that I wanted to see the English Teacher and he did not understand any thing except English Teacher, he allowed me. When I was walking towards the staff room I crossed a few classes, and when the students saw me with the same WWF T-shirt that I wore during the Vietnam TV interview, they all stared at me. Even in the staff room, when I entered, the teachers were surprised to see me and welcomed me. (In the interview the reporter had explained in brief about the purpose of my expedition. So the teachers knew about my expedition and what I was there in the school for). Before I could ask for the English teacher, somebody already had gone to call him. I spoke with the English Teacher and the Director when he came, and requested permission for the speech. He used to Interpret to the Director. I was sitting in the Director's cabin; the Director was a lady, and she asked me to wait for some time. She was very nice, and arranged the speech in an English class and invited me for lunch. It was not a school: it was a study centre of various languages and there were all college and university students.

The students were very excited as the teacher already informed them. I got a clapping welcome by the students. Many of them saw me on TV, still I introduced myself, and started the talk. It was the longest speech I ever delivered to the students because those college students were highly motivated, and for more than half an hour, they questioned me about the expedition. Every time I was thanking God for providing so much love and sending me to such good people. In the afternoon, I had lunch with the Director. The Director was a young girl but I got a shock when she told me her age. She asked me to guess and I swear I guessed around 25-28 years but she was 42 years, married, and a mother of three children. It was just impossible to guess age of Vietnamese people, whether male or female.

After lunch, I visited one more class and got the same response. The students were encouraged; a group of boys said they would go on bicycle in Vietnam, carrying similar kind of message. It was first time I met people who were serious and inspired by the talk. I enjoyed a lot with all the students. I was in the Centre since morning and came out only in the evening at 4 O'clock. At night, when I was out for dinner, Ms. 'Mai' searched for me, but when she didn't find me in the guesthouse; she kept a gift for me. It was food packet. I was pleased and went to her hotel but she was not there.


The Walk

Before I leave for Ha Tinh, I paid 80,000 Dong to the old lady for two days accommodation. I Met Ms. Mai and did not have words to thank her. But the gift was very big, and alone, I could not finish it. I requested her to take one back after convincing her that it's not possible to carry with me, as there was no space in the rucksack. I told her not to feel bad about it. I was highly obliged but I was helpless. She understood and kept one pack. While walking, I had a very different and exciting experience, and it was all because of Vietnam TV.

My God, it was just great! People used to come and shake hands with me. If any one was sitting outside a home or hotel or office, people used to run inside not because of scarcity but to call people sitting inside to come out and see me. Then all those people used to show their hands. On the highway many people used to stop their vehicles and ask if I wanted to hitchhike. Ha Tinh was just 50 Km. It was raining sometimes, but my umbrella was protecting me (the new one). I was highly encouraged with the people’s response and did not hitch-hike and reached Ha Tinh in the late evening. Here I contacted the police station to get the stamp and find out about a cheap hotel. But the same communication problem occurred over the stamp - they were scared but they showed me the hotel.


Ha Tinh

I enquired about the rent, but it was 8 US$ more than 100,000 Dong (1US$ = 14000-15000 Dong). I was shocked. The guest houses were so expensive. I requested him to make it a little cheaper, and then he said 5 US$, but refused any further concession. I was about to pay him, but the owner of the hotel came and saw me. He was so happy, he shook my hand and said 'you do not have to pay; stay a night free'. He saw my rucksack and the banner in Viet language (Got it written from WWF staff) which states the same messages: "Save Earth" and "Plant Trees". He put me in one of the best Air Conditioned rooms.

It was 7 O'clock. I enquired about the English evening classes (Ms. Mai told me that there would be English evening classes in each town and it would be easy to get permission to speak).

The owner asked one of the hotel staff to drop me at the Centre. I was very excited, so I did not feel tired even after almost 50 Km walk. Got ready and went with the person. He showed me the Centre and left. There were many students waiting out side. When I entered the gate all those students were looking at me and girls were showing their hands. I contacted a student and asked for the English teacher. The student showed me to the class, which was yet to start. I spoke to the teacher, who saw me on TV; and gave his permission without much enquiring. When all the students came into the class, the teacher introduced me to them. The students were younger than those in Vinh, where I visited yesterday. I had an almost similar experience with these students too. They asked me to sing a Hindi song, though I was not a good singer, and from the students when their turn comes I'd always get a very sweet Viet song.

These students were one step ahead of the students of Vinh. They took me out for dinner with them. I was walking with around 25 girls and 4 boys. The girls surrounded me during that long walk. Each one was trying to talk to me. I could see the competition amongst them and I really felt shy walking amongst so many girls and talking to them.

During that walk 2-3 girls even dared to say, "I love you". I kept telling them that I have my girlfriend and she is in India. I told them how much she loved me and trusted me. I wanted to be with the boys, but the girls never left me alone. I desperately missed my girlfriend always on such occasions. We had dinner and I was really enjoying each different kind of experience. It was the first time I had pork in Vietnam, it was a different and tasty dish. Those students were making me test each dish and there were many dishes. I had a variety of different dishes served in Vietnam and enjoyed the food. On the journey back, the same situation applied. They all came to see me to the hotel, where I said goodbye to them.

That night, about half an hour later, a girl came and asked me if I would stay the next day in Ha Tinh, so she could take me to her house. I could understand what she had in her mind. I told her that I would leave the next day because I do not have enough time. Repeatedly she requested, I was really pleased with her offer but convinced her that it would be difficult to spend a day more in Ha Tinh. She was nervous but then I dropped her at the hotel gate and wished her good luck. I felt very bad but what could I have done?


Poor & hardworking Viet Women

I have experienced the same everywhere while walking: people used to come and shake hands with me. Today also it was raining, but as I love to walk in rain, I continued I believe one more reason for the success of the expedition was the encouragement I received. On the way I found lots of farming, but because of rain, the crops were all under water. Vietnamese villagers are very poor and really kind. Women and girls are hard working, but live in very bad conditions. Sometimes tears came to my eyes looking at their hard work. I saw those people's life and tried to understand the meaning of life. Some times I felt I should stay and work for the betterment of those people. They wear torn clothes and ride bicycles, whereas men always trouble women. Even though in these countries the male has to pay dowry to girl's house, (where as in India tradition is that male receives the dowry) she gets nothing. It seems the same in all this part of the South East Asian countries that I have seen.


Covering cities- Roon

The whole highway (Hanoi – Ho Chi Minh) is besides the seashore. Walking on this Highway was itself a great experience. I saw real beauty of the nature, many beautiful places; everyday I walked and saw the beautiful sea. It looks so beautiful from the mountains it is just impossible to explain in words. Before reaching Roon I crossed Ky Anh and Spent a night by paying 5 US$ in a guest house. Roon was a small village. I loved today's walk. It was beautiful once I was on the top of the hill at such a place from where the sea was visible - what should I write? I am not a poet, otherwise I would have written a poem about this beautiful place. I do not have the words to express the beauty of what I saw. I would ask the travellers to travel by road if you are travelling Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh. It is amazing journey.

In Roon, I found there was no guest house when I enquired in a Post Office. The staffs were a male and two females; they were staying just besides the Post Office. At first, they didn't recognize me, but when I turned back to move, suddenly the girl shouted something in Viet. Immediately a man came out of the office and stopped me. He knew very little English, but managed to tell me there was a room that I could stay in if I wanted. I always welcomed and loved to stay with the people rather than in the hotel. I was always wanted to be with people to know them, their culture, tradition and everything about their life. When I said ok; the girl cleaned the room for me. I tried to do it but no! She wouldn't let me. I was experiencing Vietnamese people's hospitality every day. The girl provided a bed and a mosquito net. I had dinner with them; we had pork again but with sticky rice that you get in Laos. Everyone seemed to want to spend a lot of time with me. The same thing applied to the girl. I got lot of complements from her, it was very difficult to control those girls otherwise I would have had lots of problems. Everywhere I used to control my emotions and used to remember my girlfriend for the strength for not committing any sin. I used to write her letters whenever I had time, I used to get her e-mails, which I used to get in the towns where there is Internet café. It was a very difficult night for me. The girl was pretty beautiful; she was sitting in my room and looking at my photographs. We could not talk much as she did not know English but she used to ask me about the photographs. I could not tell her to leave the room but at last late night at 11.30, when I understand she won’t go, I requested her to go. It is not that she had any intention but she wanted to spend more time with me.


Dong Hoi

It was 6th November I thanked whole staff and the girl and left for Dong Hoi, around 50 km away. Since last night it was raining. I carried my solo walk even in the rain, I used to enjoy the walk in rain and there were number of reason, why I should not walk. I enjoyed the beauty of the sea, I received love from the people and more over I was interested in going through some adventures. Sometimes the rain came with heavy wind. I could not walk faster, so I hitchhiked for around 15 Kmtrs distance, and continued the walk. I reached near Dong Hoi, I heard people talking about the flood. Many vehicles were parked along the highway. I was very excited to see the flood, so I walked ahead in the rain. At last, in the evening, I reached Dong Hoi. But there was no flood at all except little water on the road. The flood was in the villages, not in the town. There was a WWF project office cum house belonging to James, who was working with WWF through VSO (Volunteer Service Organization).


James a WWF Volunteer

I met James, who was almost of my age but tall and heavy figure, when I was in Hanoi I met him at the WWF office there he gave me his phone number and address. After reaching Dong Hoi, I called him and asked the directions to his house, but he sent a man to fetch me. James welcomed me and enquired about the journey. I enquired about the flood, because I had been hearing about it for some time, and I would travel through the same route. I heard many villages were affected by the flood, which started just over 40 Km from Dong Hoi, so I would have to wait till the water level comes down. People told me the water level was coming down, but the last two day's rain was affecting the area again.

In the evening, James showed me the English Centre; by that time the rain had stopped, and I could visit that centre. I got students from the age group of 14 to 30 yrs. I used to talk for more than an hour in Vietnam everywhere. It used to be interactive session with lots of fun.

This was my 14th Day, Sunday, in Vietnam. James and I spent time with a lady, Ms. Anna Merry, who worked for women's Rights. There we met another gentleman, Mr. Smith, who was working with the Interpreter's Centre. He asked me to visit his Centre to talk to the students. The next day I visited the Interpreter's Centre, an English-language coaching centre, and Quang Binh College; at both places, boys and girls responded very well. I got a lot of satisfaction out of my talks. James was inspired with my mission and told me that he would go back to London, first on bike that he had, and later by bus, train or any other transportation, crossing countries one by one. He told me that I had inspired him to think about taking up that kind of expedition where he would save lots of money. In short, he planned to go to England with minimum expenditure because he was poor. At the same time he would carry a message for the world.


Flood

I took leave of James and started on the way to Dong Ha, as James and others had told me that Hue was the most flood-affected city. I heard the sea level was increased and water reached inside the houses, but now the water level was reducing. I stayed in Dong Ha for the night, and next day I reached Hue. It was a pathetic scene. Flood had done lots of damage; poor people did not have roofs over their heads; many people were staying outside; and everything was wet. But in the main city there was not much problem. I got to stay in a good hotel. Later, I travelled through Langco Beach, where you get to see one of the best beaches in Vietnam. It was beautiful with the surrounding mountains. I could spend only a night and reached Danang.


Danang

I was a little tired because I had been walking every day since I left Dong Hoi on 9th. There, during a speech in an English centre, I met an interesting person, Mr. Khiet. He was engaged in many activities like an orphan age, nature trail, and many other environmental projects. He was very happy and was interested to show me an orphanage where he does lot of projects. I spent one day in Danang with him visiting his orphanage, and spent almost the half day with the students, talking to them, playing with them, and getting to know how the people run the orphanage. He took me to his house, and there I saw many bottles in which different types of snakes were. What else was in those bottles will shock you: it was a kind of wine or medicine. He showed me his two years old daughter drunk two sips of it, and he told me that Vietnam has lots of Homoeopathic and Naturopathic medicines for many diseases.

After spending nice time with Mr. Khiet, the next day I moved to Tam Key and then to Binh Dinh and Phu Yen (Tuy Hoa). In all those villages I gave a talk and got the usual response.


Nha Trang

On 17th November I was in Nha Trang, another great Vietnamese beach city. Nha Trang was beautiful; there, also, I spent an extra day. Actually, if I had travelled according to my programme, I would have spent one day after a day's walk. But after walking to southern Laos, I had to go back to Vientiane for the Vietnam visa, and then find a little work in Hanoi. I was scared walking 4-5 continuous days because of the flood, and I had the knee problem, and an ankle problem: sometimes, because of the water, I used to get pimples on the fingers and toes or itching between the thighs. But I had lots of medicine that I used during the walk. But when I reached a beautiful place like Nha Trang, I enjoyed spending time with the boys and girls. On the beach I used to make friends, and used to enjoy a game of football, and I was always made welcome. At such times, I thanked God.


Cattien National Park

On 21st; after spending a night in Phan Thiet, I thought of going directly to Cattien National Park because the park was still 25 Km inside and it was already 7 P.M. I was at the intersection, so I spent one more night at Tan Phu in a hotel, and early next morning, I started the walk to Cat Tien National Park. On the way there I walked through numerous villages that were just spectacular. I was feeling very hot, so I took a very easy walk on a dirt road and got to a river. The sun was setting so people were riding home (one kid on a water buffalo), playing soccer, finishing up in the field, there were children waving hello, etc. It was the most breathe-taking walk. It reminded me of rural India, and I suddenly missed people who would take me with them to a meeting in such a village. In between, I used to have fruits, but one thing I noticed: even though I was walking through villages and sometimes through lonely places, like forests and less inhabited areas, and I could not see many trees in that area. At the bank of the river, there were few officers. I enquired with them about Mr. Gert and Ms. Ina (WWF Project manager), and explained my mission to them and showed the banner on the rucksack. The officer completed the official formalities of registration and one of them took me in a boat across the river, and found an amazing research centre, with park facilities.

Gert, whom I met in Hanoi, knew me very well. He welcomed me and asked his staff to open a guest house. I got a very good air conditioned room. There was an open-air canteen and around the canteen there were lots of monkeys. How beautiful it was. I got to know from Gert that Dip Hoa (WWF-Hanoi staff member) was also in the Park with around 25 journalists from all the best newspapers and magazines in Vietnam. In the evening I got a chance to talk to them. I presented my speech a little differently I was talking to the Journalists. I shared my experience with them in Vietnam. Many of them asked me more questions, and many of them took photographs. They were highly impressed. I was lucky to meet them and delivered the message again but that time I was sure that the reporters would write, in much more detail, the stories which I used to tell the students. It's really not possible for me to describe the way the journalists responded. It was one of my greatest experiences. I've just spent a day in the Cat Tien National Park. There were no travellers except an Englishman, Mr. Derek, because it is mostly a research forest. However, Mr. Gert and Ina, his wife, the only foreign couple, were living and working as WWF Project Manager, doing research, park management, etc. It was an amazing spot but quite out of the way. The park has the only remaining rhinoceroses (species) in SEA (except Indonesia). They are a sub species of the Javanese rhino and there are only about 4 or 6 in the park. They do not actually know yet because they have only got photos (from a trap camera taken at night) and footprints. There are also tigers in the park but just a few. We (Mr. Derek and I) took a trek into the jungle, and believe me, we would have traded all those leeches for just one look at a tiger, lion or even a bear any day.

Leeches

That day I didn't put enough leech repellent on my leech socks and I found a few scampering up to suck my blood. Somehow, we were successful in getting rid of the leeches, but also discovered some cool things in the jungle - different trees, birds, we heard a bear growl at us from a distance - what a beautiful place it was.

Ho Chi Minh

Date 24th November and 31st Day in Vietnam; I had a rough exit with the help of WWF in their Jeep because a killer monsoon hit and continued for an hour. I had to reach another intersection and then take a right turn for Ho Chi Minh City. But it was almost the same route until I reach the intersection so I hitchhiked after lunch to Ho Chi Minh City.

Ho Chi Minh City has a population of about 4 million, and is Vietnam's largest city. Hanoi, the next largest city, has a population of about 3 million. Haiphong, the third largest, has about 1½ million people. It was 4.30 in the evening. I visited the Indian Consulate, but they could not help me much except by providing a few names and addresses of temples and mosques. I visited a temple and a mosque, but in both places the chief priest refused accommodation. Then I decided to stay in a cheaper hotel. People told me that on Pham Ngu Lao road there are many cheap hotels where lots of backpackers spend the nights. It was already 9 p.m; and I walked to all the places offering accommodation. On Pham Ngu Lao road I found the, TRANG INDO-PAK Restaurant, and met a Pakistani man who was the owner of the restaurant. He was good in Hindi and spoke to me in Hindi. I enquired about cheap hotels, but before that he offered me dinner. Then he took me to the cheapest lodgings - 5 US$ per day. Of course, you cannot expect very good room for 5 US$. Still it was better than nothing.

Humanity

I was really shocked when I found that the Pakistani owner, Mr. Asif, was so kind, even though India-Pakistan relations and Hindu Muslim relations are not good. Also, the riots and terrorism in India cause people to think Indians and Pakistanis are enemies. But he, without considering my cast or country, helped me in an unknown country and proved that humanity is the only religion in the World. People should think in his way and try to live with peace and harmony.

In the morning, next day, I visited WWF office, and then the English Centre. I got a very good response and the director was very impressed by the talk. Actually it was a private Centre, and it was good for the Director to give something different to his students, and he found my accent and pronunciation difficult to understand. He was running 4-5 Centres in the city, and not only took me to his other two centres but also asked me to come next day to give my speech in those centres. Next day also I visited the classes and spent time roaming around the city.

Cu Chi

On 33rd Day, I headed towards the first destination, Cu Chi. It was the last phase of my walk in Vietnam, and I had three days to reach the Cambodian border - around 80 Km. I thought of crossing the distance in three days doing 25-30 Km every day. I was paying the hotel bills always in dollars. Only for food I was using Dong. This Highway towards Cu Chi was very busy and people, each one, used to stop their work and stare at me. In the evening I reached Cu Chi, which was just 35 Km from Ho Chi Minh City. I met a person of whom I enquired about the police station. He said he would drop me there, so asked me to seat on his bike.

I was aware of how Vietnamese police are, so I told him not to come with me inside the police station, just to drop me at the gate and go. But he was so excited and he didn't listen. I tried my best to send him away from the gate, but he met a Policeman and told him about me. Actually he understood very little - even his English was not good at all. I was talking with the help of Viet Phrase book. In the police station, nobody knew English, so later, when the boy wanted to go home, the policeman would not allowed him. Even the boy could not convince the policeman. Those policemen asked him to take me to the big Police Station. I was sorry for the poor fellow. When I told him to leave, he was not able to understand. I knew he would be in trouble as well as wasting his time. When I found he was unable to understand, I requested him to take me to his teacher, and he did. There, I explained to the teacher, and then the teacher explained to him that I want to spend a night in the village, and wanted to know about the hotel and take the advice of the police. (Mr. Asif asked me to take this precaution).

Another problem! Most probably, there was no hotel, and that is why nobody was guiding me to it. This poor man was running with me here and there, took me to the big Police Station, and explained to them. But the police shouted at him.

I understood they were asking me to stay in Ho Chi Minh City, but they were not listening when I told them that I travel on foot. But the man's enthusiasm had no effect on the police and he eventually told me that I would be staying with him, 8 Km away from Cu Chi towards Ho Chi Minh City. I hated going back, but was helpless. We came to a hut; it was all of mud, with Bamboo on the top. The poor fellows name was Mr. Han. Mr. Han’s big brother, mother, wife and two children were at home. They all welcomed me, and luckily, there was another educated man. He knew English better than Mr. Han who had brought me there. When the English knowing person explained to his family I could see what expressions appeared on their faces. I had dinner with them. My friend, Mr. Han, and the educated man both left after dinner as they were staying somewhere else. They told me to stay in the hut for the night. His family forced me to sleep on the bed, which was equipped with a mosquito net. I did not talk much that night and slept.

Next day morning they asked me to show my photographs just when I was ready to move on, so I showed all my photographs to them. They discussed the photographs, which country, which people and what not. The man - Mr. Tao- and his children were forcing me to stay for one more day. They said they would take me to their farm. I had problem with the English, so was using what little Viet I knew. Moreover, spending a whole day and a night with such people with the language difficulty was not easy. Still, I considered and thought for some time. The next destination was Go Dau, 25 Km. Away, another small village, and the check post was 10 Km ahead of Go Dau. I always wanted to cross the country one day before the visa expiry date. I thought of the possibilities and decided to know Vietnam in much closer way. So I told Mr. Tao that I would stay for one more day. Their faces were shining and I could see the happiness on their face. They took me to the farm.

Viet Culture

I found four great philosophies and religions have shaped the spiritual life of the Vietnamese people: Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism and Christianity. Over the centuries, Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism have melded with popular Chinese beliefs and ancient Vietnamese animism to form what is known as Tam Giao (or 'Triple Religion').

The family was very poor, so I bought fruits from the market for them. I did not like that they were caring for me so much and I could not do any thing for them. I knew it would not look good and they would not like if I tried to give them money.

The little boy, Van was his name, took me to their farm. He went fishing in the small pond and caught many fish, and took me around the rice-farm. I spent around three hours with him. You can imagine how I would have spent those three hours with the little boy, must be of around 13 year old. Many villagers used to come to see me and Mr. Han used to feel proud when the villagers used to ask about me. Many girls used to spend lot of time with me looking at my photographs. I doubt those people might have seen any Indian. They used to say 'koy dee soyyyyyy' meaning 'your smile is beautiful'.

Later, we had lunch at home, and Mr. Han came with an old man who knew a little English; he was a very funny and very wise man. He acted as an interpreter. Mr. Han and his family used to ask questions in Viet that he used to translate. When I answered any question or said anything, first he would laugh, and then God knows what answers he used to make by himself on behalf of me! The poor family used to listen to him and they used to laugh. He was really a wise old man - he did not want to show the family that he did not understand (at some point). I laughed a lot, but did not show him that I had caught him. Some times I was confused, and didn't get what the question was, but I managed to catch one or two words and then Oh!!!!!, 'Yaaaaaapp, Okkkkkkkk, Noooooooo' - in that way I replied.

Almost whole afternoon I spent the time out of the hut. I was not at all worried about my rucksack. I trusted God, and was roaming with the small boy, Van. I spent the whole day and enjoyed each moment. Many villagers used to call me to their house for tea. Van was wise and was very good in body language; I used mostly body language with him for communication. In the evening, we had dinner at around 6 O'clock, and spent time reading books, then slept early.

The 36th Day in Vietnam

At last, successfully, I passed the last day and night. I got up early at 5 O'clock, got ready, thanked Mr. Tao and all, and moved on. I was depress for walking the same distance 8 Km again. On the way, poor motor bike drivers used to ask, and sometimes force, me to sit on their bike. I met thousands of motor bike drivers, but usually refused them. The distance between Cu Chi & Go Daou was not at all boring. Here on this road I started meeting people of Cambodian origin. Many Cambodian go to Ho Chi Minh for work. While walking I was enjoying beauty of nature and I could not make out when I was near Go Daou. It was evening when I reached Go Daou, it was just 26 Km from Cu Chi but 34 Km from the village where I stayed last night. I went to the police station and met a lady police officer; she was good and knew a little English. I spoke to her and showed her the letter as well as newspaper cuttings. She was very happy but told me that there is no hotel, so she excitedly told me that she would help me. She tried at a place but failed, then she asked me to wait and left. After 10 minutes she came back with her husband and took me to their house. Both knew very little English but still they accommodated me. I took a bath and changed my clothes, and they prepared dinner whilst I played with their child. Her husband's name was Thee Yep; he was working in the Military, and her name was Thang. I had lots of problem for pronunciation of Vietnamese names.

While we were having dinner, Thang’s brother came and took all of us to his house after we finish dinner. His house was around 2 Km. There I saw a girl who was similar to a girl in my hometown; they seemed like twins. There was lot to talk from their end but language problem made them stop many a times. I enjoyed with their other family members. All together my last night in Vietnam was with very good people and with lots of fun.

Vietnam in short

The country has a unique civilisation and a highly cultured people. Most visitors to Vietnam are overwhelmed by the sublime beauty of the country's natural setting: the Red River Delta in the north, the Mekong Delta in the south and almost the entire coastal strip are a patchwork of brilliant green rice paddies tended by women in conical hats. The country has rapidly climbed out of its post-war fatigue and the boom in budget travelling, coupled with the lifting of Vietnamese government restrictions, have enabled more contemporary and relevant portraits of the country to gain currency in the West. Vietnam offers a rare opportunity to see a country of traditional charm and beauty taking the first hesitant steps into the modern world.

Vietnam is a tropical country in Southeast Asia. It extends south from China in a long, narrow S-curve. Laos and Cambodia lie west of Vietnam, and the South China Sea lies to the east. Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam, and Ho Chi Minh City is the largest city.

In ancient times, the Vietnamese people lived in what is now northern Vietnam. China ruled the area from about 100 B.C. until the A.D. 900's, when the Vietnamese formed an independent state. During the next 900 years, the Vietnamese expanded their territory until they controlled all of what is now Vietnam. France gained control of Vietnam in the late 1800's. The French governed the country until Japan occupied it during World War II (1939-1945). After Japan's defeat in 1945, France tried to regain control of Vietnam. But the Vietminh, a group controlled by Communists and headed by Ho Chi Minh, gained power in northern Vietnam. Fighting broke out between French forces and the Vietminh in 1946, it ended in 1954, with the French defeat in the Battle of Dien Bien Phu and an international conference to arrange a peace settlement. The conference, held in Geneva, Switzerland, decided to divide Vietnam temporarily into two zones. The Communists received control of the northern zone, called North Vietnam. Non-Communist Vietnamese received control of the southern zone, called South Vietnam. In 1957, Vietminh members in the South began to rebel against the South Vietnamese government. North Vietnam began publicly supporting the revolt in 1959. The Communists' goal was to unify the country under their control.

The fighting developed into the Vietnam War. China, the Soviet Union, and other Communist countries sent aid to the Vietnamese Communists during the war. Non-Communist countries supported South Vietnam. The United States became the chief ally of the South. It backed the South's war effort with supplies and hundreds of thousands of troops. In 1973, the participants in the war agreed to a cease-fire and the United States withdrew its last combat troops. But the Communists soon resumed their war effort. In April 1975, the Communists defeated South Vietnam and took control of it. In 1976, they unified North and South Vietnam into the single nation of Vietnam.

Thousands of years ago, people moved into the Vietnam area from the north and from islands to the south. The Vietnamese people probably developed out of these two groups. Today, they make up almost 90 per cent of Vietnam's population. Tay, Thai, Chinese, and Khmer are the largest minority groups in Vietnam. Most Vietnamese people have broad faces, high cheekbones, and straight black hair. On average, the men stand a little over 150 centimetres tall and weigh about 54 kilograms. Most Vietnamese women are slightly smaller than the men. Most of the Vietnamese people live on the Mekong and Red river deltas and on the coastal plain. The Tay and Thai live mostly in the northern provinces. Thai people form a majority in nearby Thailand. The majority of the Chinese live in urban areas. Most of the Khmer are farmers in south-western Vietnam. Khmer people make up a majority in neighbouring Cambodia. Total population of Vietnam is 78.7 million, and includes about 11/4 million Tay, 1 million Thai, 1 million Chinese, and 900,000 Khmer. The Currency of Vietnam is Dong (1US$=14,000). Vietnam's flag and coat of arms feature a star that stands for Communism. The flag was first officially adopted by Vietnamese communists when they declared independence in 1945. The shape of the star was modified slightly in 1955. The rice and cogwheel on the coat of arms represent the importance of agriculture and industry to Vietnam.

Culturally, four great philosophies and religions have shaped the spiritual life of the Vietnamese people: Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism and Christianity. Over the centuries, Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism have melded with popular Chinese beliefs and ancient Vietnamese animism to form what is known as Tam Giao (or 'Triple Religion'). The Vietnamese language (kinh) belongs to the Mon-Khmer stock, which comprises Mon (spoken in Burma) and Khmer (the language of Cambodia), as well as Khmu, Bahnar, Bru and other languages of the highlands of Vietnam. Mon-Khmer, Tai and Chinese elements are combined with many basic words derived from the monotonic Mon-Khmer languages.

The most widely spoken foreign languages in Vietnam are Chinese, (Cantonese and Mandarin) English, French and Russian, more or less in that order. Popular artistic forms include: traditional painting produced on frame-mounted silk; an eclectic array of theatre, puppetry, music and dance; religious sculpture; and lacquer ware.

Vietnamese cuisine is especially varied - there are said to be nearly 500 different traditional dishes, ranging from exotic meats such as bat, cobra and pangolin to fantastic vegetarian creations (often prepared to replicate meat and fish dishes). However, the staple of Vietnamese cuisine is plain white rice dressed up with a plethora of vegetables, meat, fish, spices and sauces. Spring rolls and steamed rice pancakes are popular snacks, and the ubiquitous soups include eel and vermicelli, shredded chicken and bitter soups. Some of the more unusual fruits available include green dragon fruit, jujube, khaki, longan, mangosteen, pomelo, three-seed cherry and water apple. Vietnamese coffee is excellent. Environmentally, Vietnam borders Cambodia, Laos and China and stretches over 1600 km along the eastern coast of the Indochinese Peninsula. The country's two main cultivated areas are the Red River Delta (15,000 sq km/5400 sq mi) in the north and the Mekong Delta (60,000 sq km/23,400 sq mi) in the south. Three-quarters of the country is mountainous and hilly. The highest peak is the 3143m (10,310ft) high Fansipan in north-west Vietnam. Vietnam is made up of equatorial lowlands, high, temperate plateaus and alpine peaks.

Although Vietnam's wildlife is rich, it is in precipitous decline because of the destruction of habitats and illegal hunting. Less than 20% of the country remains forested, and what remains is under threat from slash and burn agriculture and excessive harvesting.

Fauna includes elephants, rhinoceros, tiger, leopard, black bear, snub-nosed monkey, crocodile and turtle.

Vietnam has five national parks: Cat Ba, Ba Be Lake and Cuc Phuong national parks in the north; Bach Ma National Park in the centre; and Nam Cat Tien National Park in the south. In an attempt to prevent an ecological and hydrological catastrophe, the government has plans to set aside tens of thousands of sq km of forest and to create 87 national parks and nature reserves. Although Vietnam lies in the intertropical zone, local conditions vary from frosty winter in the far northern hills to the year-round subequatorial warmth of the Mekong Delta. At sea level, the mean annual temperature is about 27°C in the south, falling to about 21°C in the far north.

Getting There and Away

Saigon's Tan Son Nhat airport is Vietnam's busiest international air hub, followed by Hanoi's Noi Bai airpot. A few international flights also serve Danang. Bangkok has emerged as the principle embarkation point for Vietnam but it's still possible to get direct flights from a number of major Asian cities and a few Australian cities. Canada, the US and England do not have direct flights. It's become very popular to cross the border at Friendship Pass, or Dong Dang, 20km (12mi) north of Lang Son in north-east Vietnam, to get to/from Nanning in China's Guangxi Province. There are at least five other border crossing points but all of them suffer from bureaucratitis and heavy policing, and one month visas have suddenly been changed to one week visas on the whim of an official. Land travel through Cambodia is not recommended due to Khmer Rouge attacks. The other popular border crossing is at Lao Cai in north-west Vietnam, which lies on the railway line between Hanoi and Kunming in China's Yunnan Province. There is a twice-weekly international train between Beijing and Hanoi that stops at Friendship Pass. It's possible to enter Laos from Lao Bao in north-central Vietnam.

Note

Vietnamese visas specify your departure point from the country. If you want to change this you'll have to pay a visit to the immigration police or the Foreign Ministry.


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