Day Five (Christmas)
Following Mass was what would be, in a traditional Slovenian family, the chief celebration of the holiday. Drinking, eating, talking, and laughing at Grandparents' house, with a few uncles, aunts, and their older children. A female cousin spoke excellent English, I was so grateful to have someone with whom to chat.
Chatting with (L-R on bench) Ziga, me, Ema (cousin), Drago (Z's father), Spela (Z's mother); Mateja (cousin seated at table), Grandpa Franc (in foreground)
Another family view: rear L-R - an aunt I don't know, Ziga, me, Ema (cousin); seated at table - Mateja (cousin), Grandpa Franc
Following that celebration was what would be, for a contemporary Slovenian youth, the chief celebration of anything. Drinking, drinking, drinking at a local bar. We didn't get there until almost closing time, and were quickly chased out. A bunch of Z's friends ended up stranded in Bled (we departed before they had given up the search for an open bar). We learned later they had been given a ride home in the van owned by the local police, who were quite nice about it.
Christmas morning didn't happen until almost Christmas afternoon. A nice breakfast passed the time waiting for Klemen to return from his night out (much more extended than ours). We opened gifts. Z got me the Burberry scarf I wanted and his parents bought me Christmas tea and a nice cup. Everyone's sweaters fit and the music box seemed appreciated.
Chris and I getting a slow start to the day
Ah, the chaos of wrapping paper and Christmas cheer! ris, Spela (Z's mom), and Klemen (Z's brother)
Napping/reading ensued. Chris, Z, and I hit the town once more in the evening, first for the traditional "East/West Bled" hockey game in which Klemen's team lost, and then a few of the favorite local bars. The night ended rather later than it probably should have - Z out-napped us all and had way too much energy for anyone's good.
Day Six
Dragging ourselves out of bed, we vowed today would not end in another late night. The afternoon was spent shopping for Chris' required souvenirs, then back to the warm and somewhat elegant feeling Devil cafe.
A quick (fabulous!) meal at home, then we dropped Chris off at the Jesenice train station, bound for Vienna (and eventually Prague). The plan is an evening in, writing emails, postcards, journals, reading. Spela is ironing and the Slovenian news is reporting a horrific earthquake in Indonesia, the blessing of local horses for St. Stephen's Day, and the (rather minimal) celebrations of Slovenia's independence - the anniversary of which falls on this day.
Day Seven
A late start to Ljubljana on a most rainy day. Visited CityPark, (a mall). Bought a great pair of boots, a questionable pair of jeans, and two books in English for the return trip.
We tried to eat at a brewery, but the service was so poor that we left in a huff. We drove to the Opera House to find out that the ballet for the next night was sold out. Starving, Z said "I know a place around here." So we went to Gostilna As.
Which turns out to be one of the elite restaurants of Ljubljana. They announced that they prefer to "surprise" their guests with the day's specialities, and proceeded to bring us five courses of their choosing (fried seaweed, cold salmon, shrimp and clam, shrimp and pasta, white fish) followed by the strongest coffee I think I've ever had. As it became clear that we were going to pay handsomely, we took bets: would it be more or less than we spent at the mall ($100)?
More.
Soaked ourselves having hot wine and tea at an outdoor concert in the center of Ljubljana. Despite the precipitation there was a lively holiday feel to the place.
Once home, we stayed in and had a good laugh about our accidental five-star meal. The rain turned to snow at about ten o'clock.
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