This article appeared in the April 18, 2008 Jewish Advocate.

 

Putting whole grain matzah to the test

By Susie Davidson

 

Whole grains. We know we should eat them. 10 out of 10 doctors recommend them. And in the case of crusty bread, crunchy cereal, popcorn, even pizza crust, not a problem. Whole grain matzah, though, is a tougher sell. Given our fond childhood memories of buttered egg matzah (the original Passover comfort food), adding bran to what is already the driest food in existence is none too appealing a concept.

Yet there are many new varieties on the shelves, and if it’s a way to get to eat oats, rye, spelt and other grains during Passover, why not try them? Which is what we did. Our panel munched on the following healthier and wholesome versions of what a non-Jewish friend once called “the biggest cracker I ever saw!”

For fear of panelists turning away thinking that they were eating cardboard or packing crate material, it was not a blind test. Rather, they were told what they were eating and asked to honestly compare it to the others.

First, we eyeballed the contestants. Underneath, we have the commentary.

1) Streit’s Unsalted Whole Wheat Matzah - Dark brown, speckled, thin and crispy-looking, the only one with interestingly uneven edges.

Lisa of Lexington: Somewhat burnt tasting, definitely whole grain.

Karen of Brookline: Reminds me of Shmura matzah.

Stan of Cambridge: I like the consistency - it’s almost flaky. It tastes basic, and like regular matzah. I don’t notice the lack of salt. This would be good with hummus - is hummus Kosher for Passover?

Frank of Malden: A little dry. Very crunchy. Not too exciting.

Dotty of Malden: I happen to like plain type crackers so this is OK to me. I might soak this though, or cook something with it like eggs.

 

2) Yehuda Whole Wheat Matzos - Very light brown, smooth texture, thin.

Lisa: Bland and a little sweeter, would be good with cottage cheese.

Karen: Lighter, sweeter. Pleasant.

Stan: Tastes fresh - not soggy. Not bitter. I like it.

Frank: Not bitter at all. Bland.

Dotty: This is even plainer, but it has a nice mellow flavor.

 

3) Osem Israeli Light Whole Wheat Matzah with Bran - Even thinner, also crispy-looking. More ragged texture. Smaller “bubbles.”

Lisa: A little wheatier-tasting. Tastes like it’s good for you.

Karen: Drier, neither bad nor good. Edible.

Stan: Neutral flavor, agreeable. Good texture.

Frank: Very thin and crispy. I think it’s tasty. Tastes very natural, wheaty.

Dotty: I definitely wouldn’t cheat on a diet with this, but it seems nutritious. You have to drink something with it; it’s very dry.

 

4) Yehuda Light Whole Wheat Bran Matzos - Also very thin and crispy, with a darker, “cafe au lait” color, very smooth looking, longer bubbles. Lightly speckled.

Lisa: “Mealier” tasting. Not bitter. I expected a stronger taste because of the bran, but it wasn’t half bad.

Karen: A little harsh tasting. This needs jelly.

Stan: I can taste the bran, but it’s not bitter. Since we need bran during Passover, I’d probably go with this one, as it’s light and tastes healthy.

Frank: I like the speckles. Fairly moist.

Dotty: It has a nice crisp. I like the color.

 

5) Manischewitz Spelt Matzah - Light, thicker. Looks like egg matzah or at least the regular white kind. Burned edges. The most “classic” looking matzah of the bunch. Perhaps spelt is the way for whole grain novices to break into the pack(age).

Lisa: Not as good as I expected - a bit sour tasting, very plain. I thought I’d like it more, but I think I prefer the darker ones.

Cathy: No real flavor, but this one would be good with cheese.

Stan: Cottony. Just eh.

Frank: Tastes like a saltine cracker, but not salty.

Dotty: Nothing fantastic, just something to munch on. It needs cheese or a spread big-time.

 

6) Osem Israeli Rye Matzah - the darkest of all, but not as crispy looking as its darker brethren. You’d expect to see speckles with this coloring, but there are none.

Lisa: Melba-toast type of satisfaction. Almost bitter, but in an OK way.

Cathy: Very thin, a little bitter. Also needs something on it.

Stan: I’d put up with it since it seems very healthy. Tastes like what the doctor ordered. Can we make matzah brei now?

Frank: Hard, but has a tasty flavor.

Dotty: It doesn’t have a strong rye flavor, but it seems more grainy than the others. Not bad, not great.

 

So as it turned out, none turned away. Though there were no real raves, there were no big pans either. (Sounds a lot like regular matzah.) And since nobody except non-Jews eats matzah at other times of the year anyway, make the best of it and go for the whole grain.

They varied slightly in fat, with slices running between 0.5 (Osem Light Wheat) and 1 (you guessed it, the spelt). They were between 78 and 110 calories per slice (which varied from 28 to 34 grams each). What the heck, call it a hundred, and who cares about a gram of fat. As with bread, it’s what you put on it that matters.

Speaking of which, try your whole-grain matzah with melted Osek cheese, only 2.5 grams of fat per ounce. Spread a little whole-fruit jelly. They seem a little brittle for dipping into cottage cheese, but live dangerously and try it. Same for light cream cheese. How about with lox and a little Passover margarine spread? If you eat meat, top with sliced smoked or plain turkey breast and chopped pickle, and you may not miss the mustard. Or chopped liver made with egg whites, celery and a little Passover oil (banish that chicken fat from your thoughts!). Tuna, made the same way. Make turkey or chicken hot dogs on the side. These sandwich-type entrees are filling and satisfying, and will ensure you evade the “Passover 5”. One last thing - drink plenty of water.