Advocate Correspondent

This exuberant blessing, heralding the sharing of red wine, may in fact be rather apropros. Compared to its usual accompaniments, wine may well represent one of the rare healthful components of traditional Jewish mealtime, and especially holiday, fare.

But many nutritionists say it doesn’t have to be that way. With a little education and imagination, it is indeed possible to partake in our rich (no pun intended) heritage while doing minimal damage to our arteries and hips.

"Our grandmothers' kitchens," states Michael Jacobson, Ph.D., head of America’s diet watchdog group Center for Science in the Public Interest, "are often joked about because of all the fatty meat and chicken schmaltz that was used."

"But," he maintains, "a kosher diet can be terrific when it comes to nutrition. For starters, fruits, vegetables, and whole grains — which we should all be eating more of - are kosher. Pure vegans easily can stick to a kosher diet. If you include fat-free yogurt or milk, fish, skinless chicken or turkey breast, or lowfat meat…[all Jewish culinary practitioners] can keep their diets healthy."

It’s not an easy transition. A casual glance at an ad for upcoming Passover supermarket offerings reveals many items Jacobson would shake his stick at: Mother’s Margarine, Lieber Potato Chips, Kineret Cheese Blintzes, Nathan’s Cream Herring, kugels, knishes, Barton’s Chocolates — Oye! And the seder plate — salt water, egg yolk…indeed, a Fifth Question might ask "Why is it that the foods we so enjoy on this night are so bad for us?"

Medical and lay nutritionists know that the answer to this lies nowhere in the Haggadah but rather in basic health and wellness knowledge. In Moses’ day, when food was freshly farmed and eaten in its natural state, water was clean and exercise was rigorous, there was no need for food pyramids or American Heart Association guidelines. In 2001, however, it’s a different learning portion altogether. As Passover symbolizes freedom, perhaps we can begin on this holiday to free ourselves from the foods and lifestyles which drag us down as they compromise our health.

While there is certainly a glut of dietary advice out there, the best, which includes that of the CSPI, AHA, American Cancer Society, Drs. Dean Ornish, Andrew Weil and Barry Sears, do share overriding, common themes. These include reducing saturated and hydrogenated (which convert to saturated within the body) fats and cholesterol and adding more whole grains, fruits, vegetables and, of late, fish for its valued omega-3 fatty acids (the high protein, controversial Atkins-type quick fixes are best left for the short term, if not at all). Eating frequent, small meals is advocated. And of course, the daily walk is never disputed for its health benefits, though in this day of auto and industrial pollution it may be better to walk indoors if possible. Aim to get 8 glasses of room-temp, filtered water in (along with that Manischevitz). It may be prudent to try organic foods (more and more kosher organics are available) in this day of genetic modification, pesticide, mad cow and foot and mouth concerns.

Dr. Meir Stampfer, Professor of Epidemiology and Nutrition and Chair of the Harvard School of Public Health Department of Epidemiology, echoes these recommendations. "What we really need to do," he states, "is eliminate transfat [hydrogenated vegetable oil], or come close to eliminating it. We need to reduce saturated fat….There's too much emphasis on dairy products."

As Jacobson remarked, there is a place for lean meats and low or nonfat dairy in the Judaic diet. However, many choose to abstain completely. Claire Bardfield, past president of the Sisterhood of Mishkan Tefilah, has been a vegetarian for all of her adult life. "Vegetarianism," she states, "is an easy way to keep Kosher … there is no conflict, because all fruits and vegetables are Kosher, and obviously, there are no concerns over mixing of meat and milk. "Thankfulness," she adds, "is intrinsic to the Judaic faith, and we should treat our food accordingly."

"Food is sacred," agrees Bardfield’s cousin Laura, a holistic health practitioner based in Watertown. "When we say the bracha, we are acknowledging the supreme importance food has in creating and maintaining our inner health."

"We ought to view food," she continues, "not as mindless satiation, but rather as a crucial component to the fostering of optimal cell growth and a harmonious mind-body dynamic."

Taking Tradition to New Heights

With some substitution, we can reach these ideals, even during Pesach. Many Passover foods are made with cottonseed oil, which is often hydrogenated; so instead, use olive oil spray and try walnut, safflower and grapeseed oils (all available this year). Give whole wheat and/or bran matzah (even more cardboard-like, yes, but try with nonfat cottage cheese and jam) their due. Substitute marshmallows (not the coconut covereds, and go for the vegetarian gelatin) for macaroons. Eat more fresh and dried fruit instead of the artificial fruit slices. Get low or no salt everything. Pour boiling water over chickens and meats before cooking (my mother’s old tip to reduce salt). Refrigerate soup overnight and then skim the fat off. Add more fruits to tsimmes and puddings and less or even no oil. Serve sweet potatoes and asparagus. Pass on the chocolates and make low-fat chocolate puddings and brownies.

Given the longstanding, external challenges to our continuity, it

makes good sense for us to focus at least as much upon the internal. From this day forward, let’s all take greater responsibility for personal strength and well being, both for ourselves and for those we love.

EDITOR: IF ROOM PERMITS — please include a sidebar with this recipe, thanks! I have included subsequent recipes from the quoted websites afterwards as well, just in case.

Evie Davidson’s Very Lowfat Passover Noodle Kugel

1 package Passover No-Yolk Egg Noodles

16 oz. nonfat sour cream

16 oz. nonfat cottage cheese

16 oz. nonfat cream cheese

3 egg whites and 1 egg

1/2 cup skim milk

2 tablespoons low fat, non-hydrogenated margarine

1 cup raisins (optional)

Optional topping: 1/2 cup crushed matzah cake meal mixed with 1/2 cup brown sugar, teaspoon sugar and 1 cut up tablespoon of low fat, non-hydrogenated margarine

Boil noodles. When done, mix with 2 tablespoons of margarine.

Beat eggs and milk together until foamy.

Mix cheeses and sour cream; add to eggs and milk mixture.

Stir in 1 cup sugar and teaspoon vanilla and, if desired, raisins.

Mix together with noodles and pour into a large Pyrex sprayed with Passover cooking spray.

If desired, top with matzah meal, sugar and cinnamon and margarine mixture and/or drizzle with apricot jam.

Cover, and if time permits allow to chill overnight.

Bake in preheated 350 degree oven for an hour, until golden brown.

Ingredients:

3 Matzas

4 egg whites

3 tablespoons skim milk or water

1/4 teaspoon salt, if desired

Dash of pepper, if desired

Break matzas into pieces, and soak in water or milk. Beat egg whites with remaining ingredients and mix with matzas. Spray a non-stick frying pan with a few drops of oil and fry until egg whites set.

Ingredients:

6 cups raw sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced (about 2#)

6 cups sliced, unpeeled cooking apples, such as Rome (about 1.5#)

1.5 cups scraped, sliced carrots

1 cup small, pitted prunes, cut in half

2 tsp grated orange peel (colored zest only--about 1 orange)

1/4 cup unsweetened orange juice (about 1 orange)

1/4 cup honey (I successfully omitted recently)

2 Tbsp light brown sugar (I used 1 Tbsp)

Dusting of ground cinnamon or cinnamon and ground ginger

Preheat oven to 350. Prepare 9x13 baking pan with spray coating. Layer half of the potatoes in bottom of pan, overlapping edges. Repeat with half of apples, then spread over these half of the carrots and prunes. Repeat layers. Combine remaining ingredients and drizzle evenly over the layers.

Cover securely with a sheet of aluminum foil. Pierce with 8 1" slits as steam vents. Bake for 1 - 1.5 hours, or until steamed and tender.

Ingredients:

1 large onion, chopped

3 medium carrots, grated

1 pkg. frozen chopped spinach

1/2 cup water

4 egg whites, beaten

1/2 cup matzo meal

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

Coat a 9-inch pie plate with cooking spray. Preheat oven to 375 F. Cook onion, carrots, and spinach in the 1/2 cup water until spinach is defrosted. Drain, let cool five minutes.

Move vegetable mixture to a medium bowl, and stir in the beaten egg whites, matzo meal, salt and pepper. Pour mixture into the pie plate and bake 45 minutes.

This can be made ahead, refrigerated, and reheated.

Servings: 6

1 cup mashed potatoes

1/3 cup matzo meal

2 TB potato starch

1/2 small onion, finely chopped

2 egg whites *note

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 teaspooon salt

1 cup steamed broccoli, finely chopped

A few drops of oil (optional)

*note - Or use 1/4 cup Passover egg substitute

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

In bowl, combine all ingredients except broccoli and oil. Stir well, then knead until thoroughly combined and the texture of dough. Divide into 6 portions. Flatten each portion into a 4" round, pressing down with waxed paper to flatten. Put 1/6 of the broccoli mixture into each circle, fold over and press edges to seal.

Spray a cooking sheet with oil, or use a teflon sheet. Arrange knishes on a single layer and place on bottom rack of oven. Bake 15 minutes on each side. Serve hot.

Ingredients:

4 chopped apples (peeled and cored)

2 tsp cinnamon

2-3 drops of almond extract

a few drops of kosher wine

Mix together and refrigerate covered overnight to combine flavors. (Adjust spices to taste.)

Mix together in mixing bowl:

2 Tbsp potato starch beaten with 3 Tbsp water

1 cup sugar

1/4 c. unsweetened cocoa powder

dash of salt

Add:

1 mashed ripe banana

1/4 cup unsweetened applesauce

1/2 cup matzo cake meal*

1/4 cup raisins

Bake 25-30 minutes. Cut when cool.

*If you don't have matzo cake meal, just put some matzo meal in a blender to make it a bit more fine than matzo meal.

(Note: The water and potato starch mixture is a replacement for Ener-G egg replacer, which is not pesach, as it contains tapioca flour and baking powder. Its main ingredient is potato starch.)

Submitted by Natalie Frankel, Milwaukee, WI

Ingredients:

1/2 cup sugar (can use less sugar)

4-1/2 Tbsp Passover potato starch

4 cups strained orange juice

1 tsp grated orange zest

Combine sugar & potato starch in medium saucepan. Slowly pour in orange juice, stirring with whisk if necessary, to prevent lumps from forming. Add zest.

Cook over low heat, stirring constantly until mixture is smooth and thickened, about 20 minutes. Cover & chill before using. Can be made a day ahead.

Serves 12.

Ingredients:

6 small sweet potatoes, peeled and grated

3 apples, peeled and grated

1 cup raisins

1 cup matzo meal

2 tsp cinnamon

1 cup fruit juice or water

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Mix ingredients together. Press into large baking dish. Bake 45 minutes at 375 degrees until crisp on top. Serves 12.

Calories per serving: 156

Fat: less than 1 gram

Protein: 2 grams

Carbohydrates: 38 grams

Ingredients:

1/4 cup matzo meal

1 Tbsp potato starch

Scant 1/3 cup water

Pinch of salt

Mix together and refrigerate 1/2 hour. Roll into 8 balls and drop into boiling vegetable broth seasoned-water. Turn down heat and boil gently for 20 minutes. Remove from water with slotted spoon and bake for 10 minutes at 350 degrees on lightly oil-coated cookie sheet. They can be made ahead and refrigerated until use. Do not put cold matzo balls into warm soup; warm them up first by dunking in hot water. Serve with vegetable broth.

This makes very small matzo balls, so plan on 3-4 per serving. Each:

Calories: 20.25

Fat: 0

Protein: less than 1 gram

Carbohydrates: 2 grams