Excessive Barking
Barking that is a behavior problem may result
from one of several different issues. The key is
to first identify the cause of the barking and
then to change your dog’s triggers.
Loneliness Barking
When loneliness is the cause of incessant
barking, giving your dog more attention may
solve the problem. In a family situation,
encourage family members to take turns playing
with your dog and taking him for walks. When
he is left alone, provide toys for him to amuse himself.
Sometimes more attention won't solve the problem.
If your dog has developed a habit of barking, place
some pennies in a can and tape it shut. When he
barks, shake the can near him and say "quiet" in a
firm voice. The purpose of shaking the can is to startle
him. If the barking resumes, shake the can again and
say "quiet." Keep the can away from him so he does
not consider it a toy. As your dog catches on, your
verbal command "quiet" should stop the barking.
If the can does not work, use a squirt bottle to
squirt your dog's legs and back accompanied by a
firm "quiet" command.
Please remember — any action to deter your dog
from barking must be made while he is barking.
After-the-fact corrective action only confuses him.
Use a strong, firm voice. Avoid yelling, which can
be stressful to a dog.
Separation Anxiety Barking
Dogs housed inside who are left alone may suffer
from separation anxiety. Some may show their fear
and resentment by barking. The ideal way to prevent
this problem is to train a puppy to be left alone. Similar
training can be applied to an older dog, but more time
and patience may be required. Put the puppy in a room
by himself. Say "quiet" and leave the room. If the puppy
barks, return, say "quiet" and leave again. If the puppy
is quiet for a brief period, return and praise him. Extend
your time away from the puppy and, upon returning, praise
him for being quiet. With an older dog, leaving the house
or apartment may be necessary because the dog may
pick up your scent and is sensitive to familiar noises.
Territorial Barking
Some dogs bark to protect their territory and a "bark/reward"
cycle may be established. A dog who barks at a letter
carrier when the mail is delivered is "rewarded" when the
letter carrier leaves. This bark/reward may lead him to bark
at other service people, neighbors and passersby. If
possible, introduce your dog to people who come to the
home regularly. Short conversations with delivery or service
people, with your dog present, may solve the problem.
Another solution is a firm "no" or "quiet" when your dog
begins barking. If he responds by being quiet, praise him
briefly. Remember, you have to be present when he is
barking to give the "quiet" command.
Other Barking Behaviors
Often a dog will bark in an invitation to play. This is
accompanied by body language — tail-wagging,
crouching with the head lowered and hindquarters
raised. Barking usually stops when play begins or
the invitation goes unanswered.
A dog may bark to threaten intruders. This is usually a
more menacing bark and may be accompanied by growling.
Depending upon the situation, you may need to move
the dog to a more secure location or quietly reassure him.
A dog will also bark to warn other dogs or people of danger.
The barking generally continues until the source of danger
is removed or the dog is taken to safety.
Sometimes pain or illness triggers barking. If a well-behaved
dog in his usual environment begins barking or creating other
forms of vocalization, a trip to the veterinarian may be in order.
A final thought
As with all aspects of behavior training, consistency is the key
to success. Enlisting the cooperation of each family member is
important in controlling your dog's barking, as well as in all
other aspects of training. Verbal commands and expectations
for your dog's behavior must be consistent if you are to be effective.
written by Purina
Teaching Your Dog to Swim
Some dogs don’t take much training – or any at all. You
may only need to show your dog a body of water and in he’ll
go. If not, though, try going in phases. And remember,
rewards and praise work wonders.
During warm months, provide a small plastic pool with only
enough water in it to go up to the
last paw pad on your dog’s front leg.
Encourage your dog by stepping into the pool yourself.
Take a toy into the pool and make a game of it. Cheer him
on for braving this new experience.
As your dog gets more comfortable,
add more water an inch or so at a time.
When you first visit a pond or lake, make sure the water
is clean and watch for broken glass and torn metal.
Only use a nontightening collar in the water and do not
allow your dog to drag his lead. The lead
could get tangled on something underwater.
Wade into the water and play in the shallows with your
dog. Be enthusiastic! Bring a toy. Slowly, work your way
out until the water is just deeper than your dog can reach
and encourage him to come to you. Praise when he reaches
you, but watch for scratching claws – he may try to climb
on you. If he’s not quite brave enough yet, keep playing
in the shallows – give him time.
Do not drag him in deeper.
Continue this, slowly increasing depth. Be ready to gently
guide your dog around you, as some dogs will try to climb
on you at first. Many dogs panic a bit during their first
swim and splash a great deal. Supporting your dog under
his belly gently can help them gain confidence.
If the water is deep or you go out on a boat,
put a life vest on your dog
If you have a pool and invite your puppy in for a swim,
watch his skin for too much chlorine exposure. Rinse his
coat thoroughly to prevent dry skin. Never allow your dog
around any pool unsupervised until you are sure he knows
how to get out on his own.
Things to Consider Before Swimming
Make sure the kind of swimming you want to do is appropriate
for your dog. Some breeds like the water more than others,
and some are better swimmers. Breeds built low and heavy,
including Bulldogs and Bassets, can do more sinking than
swimming and need to be protected from water.
If you’re just looking to play in the water or introducing
a puppy to water for the first time, try following these
instructions. But if your dog is clearly terrified or unhappy
even after trying to acclimate, you may want
to save the water for bath time only.
written by Purina
Crate Training
Crate training is not putting your dog/puppy in a cage or
jail, and you are not being cruel if you follow these tips.
Dogs feel secure in small, enclosed spaces, like a den.
Dog crates make excellent dens. It is a safe place for him
to stay when you're away or when you cannot watch him.
Watch your own dog around home. Where do you find him
napping in his deepest sleep? Under the table, desk, chair?
Yes, somewhere out of the traffic pattern where he has a
roof overhead and a little privacy. A crate offers security,
a den with a roof, and a place to call his very own
where he can go to get away from it all.
There are basically just a few steps in "crate" training
and they are as follows:
1.Choose a crate the same size as your puppy/dog. He should
only have enough room to stand up, turn around and lie
down. His crate is for sleeping or for a safe place to be
when you cannot be with him. If you get a huge crate for a
small dog, he may eliminate in one end and sleep in the
other and you will have defeated the whole purpose of using
the crate (dogs do not like to eliminate anywhere where
they sleep or eat). If you have a puppy who will grow into a
60-70 lb. dog, you may have to buy two different crate
sizes or purchase a crate with a divider
you can move as he grows.
2.Use a single-word command for your dog to enter his crate,
for example, "KENNEL"; throw in a treat or piece of kibble;
when the dog/puppy enters, praise him and close the crate
door. Increase the time he spends in the crate before you let
him back out. Remember, your dog still needs time to play
and eliminate. Maintain a regular schedule of trips outdoors
so as not to confine him too long.
3.As a general guide, your puppy can stay in his crate
comfortably for several hours, depending on his age. Take
his age in months, add 1 month, and that's how many hours
he should be able to stay in his crate (up to about 8 hours). For
example, a 2-month old pup should be comfortable in his crate
for about 3 hours (2 mth old pup + 1 mth = 3 hours in his crate).
Always take your puppy/dog outside to the same area in your
backyard to eliminate on a leash so you can praise him
when his job is finished. This will take the guesswork
out of his visits to the backyard. And don't forget to play
with him and exercise him. He needs this kind of
stimulation for his mental and physical wellness.
Remember, your dog or puppy is a pack animal by nature
and he will be looking to you for direction. Your job as
a responsible pet owner is to give him that direction so you
can enjoy each other as true companions should.
written by Purina
Housetraining
A dog or puppy is either housetrained or not. Unless you can
catch him, it really does not do any good to drag him off to
the site of his mishap and try and punish him. Keep your dog
in sight and if he is bold enough to try something in front of
you, say "No," get his attention, and take him outdoors
quickly so he can finish eliminating in the appropriate
area. Remember, it is your house. He has to earn his freedom
through good behavior and this is your responsibility.
The first step in housetraining is to decide whether your pup
will be trained to only eliminate outdoors or have the
option of using a dog litter. If you plan on using a dog
litter, click here for more information
on the Purina secondnature® brand Dog Litter system.
If your dog will be trained to eliminate only outdoors,
start by establishing an elimination spot. In the morning,
clip his leash to his collar and take the dog outdoors
to his spot for elimination. State commands like "go potty"
or "hurry up." After he does his duty, bring the dog inside
for food and water. About 15 to 20 minutes after the meal,
take the dog outside again for elimination. Take your dog to
his "spot" at each elimination time and maintain a regular
feeding, drinking, and elimination schedule.
One of the most commonly made errors in housetraining is rushing too
quickly ahead of your dog. Too much freedom too quickly can cause
some confusion. If your dog experiences an accident or two, you
should back up and slow down your training efforts. Marking should not
be confused with housetraining problems because marking is
deliberate.It is advised that if you notice this behavior indoors or out,
you should strengthen all obedience commands immediately.
Providing your dog or puppy with a crate that is way too large may
allow him to relieve himself in one end and sleep in the other. Make
sure you take your dog or puppy outdoors to eliminate on a regular
schedule and especially prior to being left for prolonged periods of time.
If you have tried all the above and are still experiencing what you
believe to be "Territorial Marking," consult your veterinarian. Your
dog/puppy may have a bladder infection and it's always best to be safe,
not sorry. If your dog/puppy is not spayed or neutered, you may want to
talk to your veterinarian about this procedure. It usually has a very
positive effect on this type of behavior.
Even well-trained dogs sometimes have accidents. Clean the accident
area with a pet odor neutralizer so your dog won't be tempted to repeat
his mistake. Here are some tips to help prevent accidents:
Do not make sudden changes in his diet.
Avoid giving your dog late night snacks.
Make sure to spend enough time outdoors.
Written by Purina
Biting, Chewing & Digging Biting & Chewing
Dogs often chew to relieve stress and excess energy. If your dog
chews on something that is off-limits, say "no" or "eh" in a
low voice. Then immediately give your dog a safe chew toy. Praise him
for good behavior. Remember to give your dog safe chew toys instead
of old household items like old shoes, because that could encourage
him to also chew on new shoes. You will also want to avoid rough play
and games like "tug of war" as this can encourage aggressive behavior.
Digging
Just as there are many reasons for digging, there is no single solution
for changing this particular behavior. In some instances, the
instinct to dig is the heritage of the breed. Some dogs, regardless
of heritage, may be more inclined to dig if they are left alone in
the yard for long periods of time. Without the stimulation
provided by regular play and exercise, dogs often turn to digging
or other forms of “misbehavior” to alleviate their boredom.
A dog that is pushed outdoors after he misbehaves in the house may
continue his misbehaving by digging in the yard. Controlling your
dog's behavior inside addresses that problem as well as
unacceptable digging outside.
During summer months, if your dog digs a hole to cool himself, consider
providing a cooler location for him such as an umbrella or some
other shade throughout the day and make sure fresh
drinking water is always available.
Some dogs will dig under a fence to get out of the yard. Ideally,
a fence should fit tight to the ground or even be buried a few
inches underneath to prevent a dog's crawling
or digging out from under it.
If you find it virtually impossible to discourage your dog from
digging, provide him with a "digging area." When your dog digs in
this designated area, praise and reward him with attention or
a treat. If your dog digs outside this area and is caught in
the act, a firm "no" is usually a deterrent.
In this aspect of training, as in all others, family members must
work together as a team. One overly indulgent family member can
create problems by not cooperating in training a dog.
written by Purina
Being A Good Pet Neighbor
As you enjoy your pet's companionship, a
little extra effort on your part will teach him
to be a good neighbor. Ideally this should
begin when your pet is young.
However, at any age, a dog can be trained to
obey at least the basic commands. The best way
to teach your dog obedience is to attend a dog
obedience school. Kennel clubs, humane organizations
and extension divisions of some universities offer
obedience courses. There are also many good books
on obedience training.
Many communities have "pooper scooper" laws requiring
owners to clean up after their dogs. Law or no law,
cleaning up after your dog reflects your consideration for others.
Daily walks can be a treat for both of you when your dog is
trained to walk quietly at your side on a loose leash. This
on-going training helps you control your dog so it won't
jump on people or on other dogs.
A fenced yard is one of the best ways to keep your dog
from soiling or digging in a neighbor's yard. If your yard is
not fenced, check pet stores and catalogs for tie-outs. Two
of the most popular are a swivel stake or a tree trolley.
Many tie outs can be used successfully for dogs that weigh
up to 250lbs. A tree trolley fastens to a tree, but allows a dog
to run around the tree without the chain becoming tangled.
A barking dog can become a neighborhood annoyance.
Excessive barking is frequently the result of boredom or
anxiety when a dog is left alone for long periods of time.
Regular walks and play periods with your dog and teaching
it tricks will help prevent boredom. Click here to learn how
to prevent excessive barking.
Proper identification enables someone to contact you if your
pet wanders far from home. Dogs should wear collars with an
identification tag as well as have microchip or tattoo identification.
written by Purina
