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Reborn Instructions


REBORN INSTRUCTIONS


PLEASE BE AWARE THAT THIS MATERIAL IS COPYRIGHTED. IT IS NOT TO BE COPIED OR DUPLICATED (IN WHOLE OR PART) WITHOUT MY CONSENT.

THIS MATERIAL IS NOT INTENDED TO BE SHARED FREELY OR RE-DISTRIBUTED.

IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO PURCHASE THIS INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT ME AT: cjiscalf@charter.net

REBORN INSTRUCTIONS

Please be advised that I am not responsible for the outcome of your project. These are only guidelines to help you through the reborn process.

The following pages are not considered to be the correct way of making a reborn baby. Everyone has their own methods and techniques.

These are very basic and simple directions for making your first reborn. After some practice, you may want to try other, more advanced techniques.

AFTER YOU READ THROUGH THESE INSTRUCTIONS, IF YOU DECIDE YOU'RE READY TO MAKE YOUR FIRST BABY...I SELL COMPLETE BERENGUER REBORN KITS FOR $125.00. THE KITS INCLUDE ALL OF THE MATERIALS NEEDED TO MAKE YOUR REBORN. EVERYTHING ON THE SUPPLY LIST IS INCLUDED. IF YOU'RE INTERESTED IN PURCHASING ONE OF THESE KITS, PLEASE CONTACT ME AT: cjiscalf@charter.net

GETTING STARTED

I recommend that you read through all of the instructions before you start your baby.

This will help you become more familiar with the tools and supplies you’ll be using.

First you need to be prepared, here is a list of all the tools and supplies you will need!!

SOME ITEMS YOU WILL PROBABLY HAVE AROUND YOUR HOUSE ALREADY.

* 20 “ Berenguer baby doll to reborn

I recommend the 20" Lababy nursery doll- These are the easiest to reborn and are the perfect size for a newborn.

* Disc jointed - cloth replacement body, with cable ties

* Baby wig of your choice or mohair and felting needles for hand rooting the hair.

* A set of baby eyelashes

* A 2 lb. bag of poly pellets

* A pair of panty hose or knee high stockings (if pellet pouches do not come inside your baby)

* A small piece of dark felt

* Polyester Fiberfil stuffing

* Silicone caulking (like used to seal around windows etc.) Make sure it’s the kind that can be used with silicone. (Aquarium sealer works great) or E6000 glue can be used.

* Glue (One that dries clear and flexible, Aleene’s Tacky glue is ideal)

* Lavender acrylic paint ( I use Apple Barrel)

* Gloss Sealer ( I use Delta Ceramcoat)

* Matte Sealer ( I use Delta Ceramcoat)

* Pigment ink pad (I prefer Cranberry, others use Old Rose)

* A drill bit (I use a size 1/8 Inch)

* Fine tip, brown permanent marker (Sharpee) or fine tip, brown paint marker

*Aqua or Turquoise marker for veining

* Fine tip white gel pen, or fine tip white paint marker (Pentel works great)

* Non Acetone nail polish remover

* Small makeup sponges

* A sharp craft knife (Exacto) Mind your fingers!!! These are very sharp!!!

* A medium sized, long handled paintbrush

* A small detail paintbrush

* Toothpicks

* Some cotton balls

* Q-tips

Misc. optional items… (for magnetic pacifier and bottle of formula)

* 1 Baby Pacifier

* 2 Rare Earth magnets (caution should be used around magnets)

* 4 oz. Baby Bottle (with cap and nipple)

* Ivory or Antique White Acrylic Paint

* E6000 glue

The first step is to choose your face mold.

I’ve decided to use the 20" La baby "Angel or New Face".

Remove the original outfit from the doll.

You will notice how skinny she is and that the body is not jointed. The replacement body makes a big difference to the final outcome of the doll.

The first thing to do is to remove the limbs.

You will notice each one is attached by a plastic cable tie, and there is a small gap in the material where the tie is fastened.

Slip your scissors or craft knife under the tie at this point (so as not to damage the cloth body) being very careful not to cut the vinyl. Mind your fingers!! The knife is very sharp!!!

Cut the tie and the limb will come away.

Remove and discard the plastic tie. Also remove the stuffing, but save that, it can be used for re-stuffing!!

When you have removed all the limbs, you need to remove the head in the same way.

You will find a cloth bag of polypellets in the bottom of the body and small pouches of pellets in the arms and legs. Save these, along with the stuffing as you will be able to use them later.

If you are replacing the body, you will no longer need the original cloth body for this project. The original body can be reused if cost is a concern for you, but keep in mind that the dolls sell better with the replacement bodies.

You will notice small openings in the end of the limbs. These need to be opened to allow you to easily get a paintbrush into the very ends.

Use your craft knife to widen the holes. Don’t worry if it doesn't look very neat, this part will not show when your doll is complete. Again…Mind your fingers!! The knife is very sharp!!!

Your cut limbs should look something like these.

The next stage is the internal painting. This is one of the most important stages in the reborn process. I wash all the vinyl parts with soapy warm water and rinse well. Allow these parts to dry thoroughly before proceeding!! The reason for this is to remove any residue that may interfere with the painting and blushing process.

If you are going to change the eyes, you'll need to do this before you start painting.

To change the eyes- Fill a pan with water and bring it to a boil. Pour the hot water directly into the head and allow to sit for several minutes. Empty the water and proceed with removing the eyes.

The vinyl will be hot, so use caution. You'll notice the vinyl is now soft and very pliable. To remove the original eyes, reach inside the head and push on the eye socket. With a little pressure, the eye will pop out through the front.

Be sure to use the same size eyes as the ones you removed. They are measured in Millimeters.

While the vinyl is still warm and soft, reach back inside the head and push the eye socket back through the front. Hold this in place while putting the new eye back over the socket. Push on the eye, and it will go back inside the head. Just do the opposite from removing the eyes. You may need to get one side of the eye partially into the socket and spread the socket apart some to push the other side in place.

If the eye is off centered, it can still be moved around inside the socket while the vinyl is still warm. Once the vinyl cools, the sockets will re-harden around the eyes.

Painting- I use a lavender colored acrylic paint. This works well for me as it is not so purple as to give any bruising, but still pink enough to give color to the outside. The Lavender internal paint makes the baby's skin turn a very pale fleshy color.

You will need a long handled paint brush which is fine enough to reach to the ends of the toes and into the little fingers. Apply a thin layer of the lavender paint to the internal surfaces of your doll. It is important to hold the limb/head up to the light and pay attention to where the vinyl is thinnest, at these points the paint needs to be applied in a thinner coat to prevent the skin from becoming uneven. At this stage you can dry the paint with a hairdryer. You may see areas on the smooth vinyl where the paint had not adhered. Simply repaint these areas and dry again. Be sure the paint is completely dry before proceeding!!

You may have to bend or squeeze the vinyl pieces to get to some areas that need to be painted.

In this illustration I have placed a finished head next to a brand new doll. You can see the difference in the appearance of the skin.

Weighting the limbs is the next stage. Again many reborn artists have their own methods, but I choose to work the following way.

Fill each limb with poly pellets to about ½ inch from the top. Then add a layer of fiber fill, just to the top. Push it down into the limb so you have a tight fit.

Using your sealant, OR E6000 glue, seal off the limbs, making sure there are no holes or gaps where pellets can leak out from.

You will need to leave these to set overnight to dry completely!!

While the sealant on the limbs sets you can work on the baby's face.

It is amazing to see the dramatic effect of opening up the nose. I do not open the mouths on my babies, but rather give them a magnetic pacifier.

Cutting open the mouth can cause splitting of the vinyl later on, and your baby will be ruined.

I use rare earth magnets** and E6000 glue for my pacifiers. You will need 2 magnets.

Any regular baby pacifier can be used. Cut the nipple from the pacifier as close as you can to the base. Apply a good amount of the E6000 right where the nipple was and place the magnet into the glue. This will have to dry for several hours.

After the glue has dried on the pacifier, it’s time to attach the 2nd magnet inside the baby’s head. It is important to check for positive and negative ends on the magnets. If you glue the wrong side of the magnet inside the head, the pacifier will not make contact with the magnet, but rather push it away. Using the E6000 glue, put a good amount on the magnet and place it inside the baby’s head (behind the mouth) and hold in place for a minute.

Place the pacifier on the outside of the baby’s head (by the mouth) and allow to dry.

It is important to allow this to dry. If you remove the pacifier before the glue dries inside, the magnet may slide out of place and end up in her chin.

**Caution should be used around magnets. They may affect pacemakers and other electronic equipment.

Place the pacifier on one side of your finger and the magnet on the other side. That side that sticks to your finger is the side that needs to be glued inside the head. Make a mark on this side of the magnet so you’ll be sure to glue it correctly.

For opening the nose, you will need a small drill bit (I use 1/8 “) and a fine, sharp craft knife.

The nose is essential. To create the impression of a living baby, it needs nostrils to breathe. Using a fine drill bit, gently drill the holes exactly where they are marked on the doll. I do not use a drill, but rather turn the bit by hand.

Try not to rest your drill bit on the baby's lip as you work, or it will leave very nasty marks there.

Gently remove any loose bits of vinyl from the inside, using the Exacto knife. A round needle file also comes in very handy for this.

Dab a small amount of glue on a piece of dark colored felt, and glue this inside the head behind the open nostrils. This adds depth, and keeps the stuffing from showing.

 

 

 

IF YOU PLAN ON ROOTING THE HAIR FOR YOUR BABY, THIS WOULD BE THE BEST TIME.

I RECOMMEND USING AN OLD DOLL TO PRACTICE ON.

IF YOU WANT TO REMOVE THE FACTORY PAINT BEFORE PROCEEDING YOU'LL NEED SOME COTTON BALLS AND "GOOF OFF" OR ACETONE. THESE CAN BE FOUND IN THE PAINT SECTION OF THE STORE. THE ACETONE IS BY THE PAINT THINNER AND STRIPPERS...IT IS NOT NAIL POLISH REMOVER.

ACETONE WORKS BEST, BUT YOU'LL HAVE TO USE EXTREME CAUTION NOT TO GET THIS ANYWHERE ELSE ON YOUR BABY. IT WILL MAKE THE VINYL SHINY.

YOU WILL NEED TO USE RUBBER GLOVES TO PROTECT YOUR HANDS, AND BE SURE TO WORK IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA...THIS IS STRONG STUFF!

Some of the reborn artists also remove the molded hair lines before rooting. I believe this is done with sandpaper. Vinyl can be sanded, but be careful not to sand anything except where the rooted hair will be or you might have problems blushing the doll in spots that have been sanded. Sanding the head is not necessary, that is a personal preference.

IT IS MUCH EASIER TO ROOT THE HEAD IF IT IS HEATED FIRST. THIS CAN BE DONE WITH A HAIR DRYER, OR YOU CAN PLACE THE HEAD IN THE OVEN. BE SURE TO USE A GLASS DISH (NOT METAL) HEAT THE OVEN TO 200 DEGREES AND PLACE THE HEAD IN THE OVEN FOR ABOUT 3 MINUTES. IT WILL BE VERY WARM AND SOFT TO HELP THE NEEDLE GO IN TO THE VINYL EASIER. AS IT COOLS WHILE ROOTING, JUST PLACE IT BACK IN THE OVEN FOR A FEW MINUTES AND CONTINUE ROOTING AGAIN.

YOU WILL NEED TO PURCHASE SOME FELTING NEEDLES AND SOME MOHAIR. I'VE ONLY BEEN ABLE TO FIND THESE ON EBAY.

THE NEEDLES HAVE A BARBED END THAT TANGLES AND KNOTS THE HAIR INSIDE THE HEAD SO IT DOESN'T PULL BACK OUT EASILY.

YOU WILL NEED PRETTY MANY OF THESE NEEDLES AS THEY BREAK EASILY, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU ARE FIRST LEARNING TO ROOT HAIR.

I HAVE A TOOL THAT HOLDS MY NEEDLE AND MAKES IT EASIER TO USE.

I use sections of hair about 4-5 inches long and about an inch wide when spread out.

For this particular baby, I used curly hair, so my sections of hair are thinner so the curl can be held flat against the head.

Lay the section of hair on the head in the area you want to root.

Push the needle directly into the hair and through the vinyl.

Plunge the needle in at an upward angle over and over again. Push the needle in the direction that the hair will lie on the head. Then peel back the hair. A bunch of hair will be rooted into the vinyl scalp. If you get too much in one hole, just pull some of it out. I prefer a wispy look with only a few hairs in each hole.

I start around the outside of the head to form an outline of where the hair will be, and fill in as I go.

Just keep filling in as you go.

If there are places that are too bald, simply come back and fill in as needed.

This is very time consuming and takes some practice.

The end result is well worth the effort.

If the hair is too long, it can be trimmed to the desired length.

BE SURE TO ROOT AT AN ANGLE, IN THE DIRECTION THAT REAL HAIR WOULD GROW.

When you have completed the hair, it can be wet down, combed into place and a stocking can be placed over the head until the hair dries. This will help it lie down better.

IN A COUPLE OF DAYS THE HOLES WILL SHRINK UP AROUND THE VINYL AND THE HAIR WILL NOT COME OUT EASILY. You can also use a water proof adhesive on the inside to help secure the hair. E6000 works great!

There are many ways of applying hair to your baby, and many types of hair that can be applied!

For this baby I have chosen to go with a mohair baby wig. It is easy to brush once applied, and can be styled, or even curled with a curling iron.

Mohair is soft and fine, just like real baby hair.

It adheres to the crown of the head, by applying a thin layer of glue onto the head and placing the cap on

the glue . You can put the wig in place, and draw a line around it, so you’ll know where to apply the glue.

It may need holding in place for a while to allow the glue time to dry!! You can use rubber bands for this.

Be careful not to get the glue too thick or it will seep through into the hair. I use my finger to spread the

glue on the head.

* NOTE: Some people remove the factory painted on hair before they apply the wig.

It is not necessary with a wig, but can be done if preferred.

To remove the paint, use Goof Off and some cotton balls.

The inside of your wig will look something like this one. The tag should be cut off. Line up the wig on your doll head the way you want it to be, and then while holding it in place, pull back the hair and draw a line all the way around the edge of the wig.

Your head should look something like this one.

Next squeeze some glue onto the head,

and spread it out evenly with your finger.

Make sure that all of the hair is tucked inside of the wig and place the cap in the glue, on the head.

Slowly start to unroll the wig on to the head, making sure it is lined up evenly so no glue gets into the hair.

When you’ve got the hair where you want it, secure it with rubber bands until it is dry.

If the wig is too long,it can be cut or thinned without it looking cut.

BE SURE WHEN YOU CUT THE WIG, YOU ONLY CUT THROUGH THE MESH CAP AND NOT THROUGH THE HAIR. YOU CAN TAKE OFF AS MANY ROWS OF HAIR AS YOU WANT, BUT REMEMBER IT WILL SHORTEN THE WIG TOO.

     
 
I USE LITTLE MANICURE SCISSORS AND JUST SLIDE THEM BETWEEN THE MESH CAP AND THE HAIR.
 
 
WHEN YOU HAVE TO CROSS A SEAM, YOU'LL NEED TO CUT THROUGH THE HAIR TOO.
 
 
JUST PULL THE 2 PIECES APART.
 
 
 
YOU'LL JUST END UP WITH A SMALLER CAPLET WIG, AND IT WILL BE THINNER AND SHORTER.
 
 
 
IT'S REALLY EASY AND YOU CAN'T MESS IT UP THIS WAY...UNLESS YOU CUT THROUGH THE HAIR WHILE YOU'RE CUTTING THE MESH CAP...DON'T DO THAT!!!!
 

Prepare to weight the body.

Inside the 20" La Baby doll, earlier you found the bag of polypellets in the bottom. You will use this here. Most of the 20” dolls also have small bags of polypellets in the legs and arms. You will also use these here. This helps with the even distribution of weight. (real babies are heavy all over not just in their hands and feet!!) If your baby did not come with these small pouches, you can make your own. Using a pair of panty hose, cut the feet off about 4" up. I use three to four heaping tablespoons of polypellets in each, tie a knot in the top, cut off any extra material and set aside for the knees!

(don't make the bags too tight)

Cut off 2 further 5" lengths from your panty hose and tie one end. Add two to three heaping tablespoons of polypellets and set aside for the elbows.

Stuff the limbs!!

For the limbs you can use the stuffing you removed from the original doll. Gently stuff the tops of the limbs, adding the poly pellet bags at the knees and elbows and then more stuffing until you reach a firmness you are happy with. Try to keep the arms and legs even.

Take your sealed vinyl limbs and attach them to the body in the correct position and tighten with the plastic ties.

You’ll notice a ridge at the top of the limbs. This is where the cable tie fits, to hold it securely in place.

Tighten the cable ties by pulling back and forth in a rocking motion until they are snug.

You will need to place your large bag of pellets into the bottom of the body, and use stuffing to fill out the front and the tummy. Continue stuffing until your baby is as firm as you want it. (You will probably need some extra stuffing at this stage.)

The baby's head also needs to be weighted. Place your dark felt over the nose openings, you don't want to be able to see the stuffing. A small amount of glue will help keep this in place. Line the baby's head with soft stuffing and then insert a plastic bag into the head so the opening of the bag is accessible through the neck opening. Add poly pellets until you are comfortable with the weight. Tie or seal the bag firmly and push it towards the top and back of the head. Add more stuffing, you don't want the pellet bag rolling around!

Some people re-use the neck plug that came with the baby, others cut part of the stem away and others don’t use it at all. You can choose any way you prefer, depending on how floppy you want your baby’s head to be.

Attach baby's head, tighten using the cable ties and then cut all ties as short as you can (nail clippers work great for this).

Eyebrows are a very important step to add realism to your baby. They also add character. I use a fine tip, permanent marker (such as a Sharpee) and draw the eyebrows on. Use a Q-tip dipped in non acetone nail polish remover and smudge the eyebrows, so they don’t overwhelm the face. They should look “barely there”.

If you rub too hard, the brows will come completely off. If this happens, just start over again.

If using a paint marker, just smudge them lightly with a Q-tip, before they dry. Don’t use nail polish remover.

An eyebrow pencil can also be used, but may wear away in time if the face is wiped or cleaned often.

VEINS

 

VEINS ALSO ADD A NICE BIT OF REALISM TO YOUR BABY AND THEY ARE VERY SIMPLE TO DO.

YOU WILL NEED AN AQUA OR TURQUOISE SHARPEE MARKER, A COUPLE OF COTTON BALLS, AND SOME NON-ACETONE NAIL POLISH REMOVER.

 DRAW YOUR VEINS ON WHERE YOU'D LIKE THEM TO BE AND THEN JUST LIGHTEN THEM WITH A COTTON BALL DIPPED IN THE POLISH REMOVER.

 THEY SHOULD APPEAR BARELY THERE... LIKE THEY ARE SHOWING FROM UNDER THE SKIN.

 

DRAW THEM ON THE WRISTS AND ANKLES, HANDS AND FEET, AND EVEN ON THE HEAD AT THE TEMPLE AREAS, ETC.

To bring the nails to life, use a fine white gel pen or paint marker to draw a thin white line over the top of the nail. A fine detail brush and acrylic paint can also be used. Then when it is dry, seal it with a clear varnish, using the small detail brush. I allow that to dry and apply a second coat. (Nail polish is not recommended as it tends to peel.) I use Delta Ceramcoat. If you want your nails shiny, use gloss…if you’d like them more natural, use a matte finish. I also use the gloss sealer to add shine to the baby’s lips. It makes them appear wet and adds a cute touch.

Now you need to blush your baby to give her the real lifelike skin tone of a new baby.

Use a very small amount of pigment ink on a clean makeup sponge. How you blush you baby will vary from doll to doll, but as a general rule, a very light covering all over, worked well in and spread very thin with your make up sponge will give a nice foundation. Then highlight areas such as the cheeks, the chin, the nose, the balls of the feet and all the little baby wrinkles you will find all over!! Remember to apply sparingly, you can always add more! Over the next day or two, this will soak into the vinyl and become permanent. You may want to add more blush at this point to any areas you feel may need it.

The blush may appear too dark at first, just blend it in until you’re satisfied with the shade.

DON’T FORGET TO DO ALL THE PLACES A REAL BABY WOULD BE PINK…EVEN THE EARS

Below is a picture of two feet. The one on the left has been blushed and the one on the right has not.

Notice the difference in the skin tones.

Applying the babies eyelashes can be a bit difficult!!

Use a fine toothpick and apply the glue carefully. Place the eyelashes in position and with a toothpick, gently push the base of the eyelash strip between the eye and the vinyl of the upper lid. The glue will dry clear.

Any mistakes (glue on the eyeball, excess glue, etc.) should be corrected while the glue is still wet.

Use the end of a wet toothpick to scrape away the glue.

BOTTLE INSTRUCTIONS

START WITH ANY REGULAR

4 OZ. BABY BOTTLE.

YOU WILL NEED TO SEAL THE

NIPPLE FIRST.

FOR SILICONE NIPPLES (CLEAR)

THIS IS DONE WITH SILICONE CAULKING USED FOR AROUND WINDOWS, ETC.

(BE SURE TO READ THE LABEL AS SOME CAULKING SAYS IT'S NOT SUITABLE FOR USE WITH SILICONE)

I'VE ALSO HEARD THAT AQUARIUM SEALANT WORKS, BUT I HAVEN'T TRIED IT PERSONALLY.

SQUEEZE THE SEALER INSIDE THE NIPPLE, ENOUGH TO CLOSE UP THE TOP OF THE OPENING

     

 

FOR RUBBER NIPPLES (BROWN)

THIS IS DONE WITH SUPER GLUE.

SQUEEZE A SMALL AMOUNT INTO THE END OF THE NIPPLE.

ALLOW THIS TO DRY COMPLETELY AND PROCEED WITH THE NEXT STEP.

 

ADD APPROX. 4 OZ. OF WATER TO

THE BOTTLE AND I ALSO ADD A FEW

DROPS OF BLEACH TO HELP

PREVENT MOLDING.

*FORMULA - ADD A FEW DROPS OF ANTIQUE WHITE ACRYLIC PAINT...

ADD UNTIL YOU REACH THE

DESIRED COLOR.

RECIPES:

Orange juice-Put a few drops of Apple Barrel Acrylic paint, color "Apricot", in the water and mix.

Apple- One drop of yellow and one drop of orange in the bottle. Shake and it looks like apple juice. This may need to be diluted with water to acheive the right color.

Grape-Two drops red and one drop of blue make purple, or just one drop of purple in the water.

Cranberry- One drop red and one drop orange for cranberry color.

Pineapple-Two drops yellow and one drop of red make orange. This may need to be diluted with water to achieve the right color.

ONCE YOUR BOTTLE IS MIXED, USE SOME E6000 GLUE TO SEAL THE CAP ON.

THIS PREVENTS CHILDREN FROM OPENING THE BOTTLE AND DRINKING IT.

SQUEEZE A SMALL AMOUNT AROUND THE RIM.

REPLACE THE CAP WITH THE NIPPLE AND ALLOW TO DRY.

TUMMY AND TUSH PLATES

DO NOT CUT THE TORSO UNLESS YOU PLAN TO CHANGE OVER TO A CLOTH BODY!!...THIS SECTION IS FOR MAKING THE PLATES ONLY!!!

 

FIRST OF ALL...PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN CUTTING THE PLATES. THE X-ACTO KNIFE IS SO SHARP, AND I'VE CUT MYSELF SO MANY TIMES...ALWAYS WHILE CUTTING THE PLATES. IT'S BEST TO USE A NEW BLADE.
YOU CAN ACTUALLY CONNECT THEM BY PUTTING HOLES IN THE SIDES OF THE PLATES AND TYING THEM TOGETHER WITH SOME RIBBON. MOST PEOPLE JUST INSERT THEM IN THE DIAPER FOR THE PICTURES THOUGH.
 
START WITH THE FULL BODY AND
CUT OUT THE NECK PIECE.
         
 
NEXT, JUST CUT ACROSS THE SHOULDERS AND DOWN THE SIDES OF THE BODY.
 
 
YOU WILL END UP WITH 2 PIECES...THE FRONT AND THE BACK.
 
NEXT, CUT OUT THE SOCKET PIECES.
 
 
PAINT THE INSIDES TO MATCH YOUR HEAD AND LIMBS.
 
AFTER THIS IS DRY, USE SOME SEALER TO COAT THE INSIDE SO THE PAINT DOESN'T FLAKE OR PEEL.
ALLOW TO DRY AND THEN BLUSH THE OUTSIDES.
 
TUCK THE PIECES INSIDE THE DIAPER FOR POSING.
CORD INSTRUCTIONS


1. START FIRST BY OPENING YOUR CLAY AND THEN CUT OFF A SMALL AMOUNT FROM THE BLOCK. WORK THIS WELL WITH YOUR FINGERS...JUST KEEP ROLLING IT UNTIL IT SOFTENS AND SHAPE IT INTO A SMALL DISK.

THIS DISK SHOULD BE ABOUT THE SAME SIZE AS ONE OF YOUR MAGNETS.

YOU WILL NEED TO BAKE THIS DISK IN YOUR OVEN AT 270 DEGREES FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES.

ALLOW THIS TO COOL AND PROCEED WITH THE NEXT STEP.

2. CUT SOME MORE OF THE CLAY FROM YOUR BLOCK AND WORK THIS WELL WITH YOUR FINGERS...JUST KEEP ROLLING IT UNTIL IT SOFTENS.

THE CLAY WILL NEED TO BE ABOUT

THE SIZE OF A SUPER BALL.

ONCE IT IS SOFT PRESS IT OUT FLAT.

3. PLACE THE BAKED AND COOLED DISK IN THE CENTER OF THE FLATTENED CLAY.

4. NEXT ROLL THIS INTO A CYLINDER SHAPE.

6. NEXT PLACE THE CLAMP ON THE CLAY...BE SURE THAT YOU CLOSE THE CLAMP OVER THE BAKED DISK. THIS WILL KEEP YOUR CORD FROM BEING CUT IN HALF.

7. NEXT, I FORM THE CLAY OVER THE BACK SIDE OF THE CLAMP TO HELP SECURE IT BETTER.

8. TWIST YOUR CORD SLIGHTLY TO GIVE IT A WRINKLED APPEARANCE.

9. THE NEXT STEP IS TO INSERT ONE OF THE MAGNETS INTO THE END OF THE CLAY...AT THE BACK OF THE CORD.

10. THE NEXT STEP IS TO BAKE YOUR CORD. YOU WILL WANT TO PLACE THE BACK SIDE OF THE CORD DOWN WHILE BAKING, AS IT WILL FLATTEN SLIGHTLY

(I USE A GLASS CASSEROLE DISH WITH THE LID INVERTED IN THE DISH AND PLACE THE CLAMP IN THE LID FOR BAKING...THIS KEEPS THE MAGNET AWAY FROM THE METAL OVEN GRATES AND HELPS KEEP IT WHERE I WANT IT TO STAY.)

BAKE THE CORD AT 240 DEGREES FOR ABOUT 45 MINUTES.

YOUR CORD SHOULD LOOK PRETTY MUCH LIKE THIS ONE WHEN IT'S FINISHED BAKING.

ALLOW THIS TO COOL BEFORE PROCEEDING!

11. NEXT YOU WILL WANT TO ADD SOME COLOR TO THE BASE AND THE END OF THE CORD.

(I USE CRANBERRY PIGMENT INK, AND A MAKEUP WEDGE TO BLEND THE COLOR)

AFTER THE COLOR IS DRY, APPLY A LAYER OF GLOSS SEALER AND LET IT DRY.

YOUR CORD IS NOW FINISHED AND READY TO BE ATTACHED TO YOUR TUMMY PLATE.

PLACE THE CORD ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE PLATE, AND THEN HOLD THE SECOND MAGNET UP TO THE INSIDE OF THE PLATE. IF THE MAGNET MAKES CONTACT, THIS IS THE CORRECT SIDE TO GLUE.

I USE E6000 GLUE AND JUST PUT A SMALL AMOUNT DIRECTLY ON THE INSIDE OF THE VINYL PLATE.

PUT YOUR MAGNET IN PLACE AND KEEP THE CORD ON THE OUTSIDE WHILE THE GLUE DRYS. THE CORD WILL HELP KEEP THE MAGNET FROM SLIDING OUT OF PLACE.

Now your baby is all ready!!

All that is left to do is put her/his little diaper on, and find her/him a nice outfit to wear.

She/he will wear size 0-3 months or preemie size clothes.

Have fun shopping for her/him…take her/him along, you’ll be amazed at the responses you’ll receive. If you plan on selling any of these babies, be sure to bring along some business cards…you’ll need them.

THIS BABY ALSO LOOKS CUTE AS A GIRL:

PLEASE, IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS AT ALL, FEEL FREE TO CONTACT

ME AT ANY TIME. I’M ALWAYS HAPPY TO HELP WITH ANY CONCERNS OR PROBLEMS YOU MAY HAVE.

GOOD LUCK AND ENJOY YOUR BABY!!

CASSY

cjiscalf@charter.net





 



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