Disclaimer - I'm not a professional engine builder. I am an anal engineer that enjoys this stuff for fun. Follow this as a helpful guide only. If you screw something up it is not my fault. On the other side of the coin, I take constructive criticism well. If you see something that doesn't make sense, call me out on it. I don't want to make a dumb mistake as much as I don't want to give out incorrect information. Enjoy!
This page flows top to bottom. This is the mock build to check clearances and other engine building stuff the do-it-yourselfer can do with some machine shop help. Picture comments are under each picture.
Let's begin: Cylinder Head Mock Up
Let's start with a little common sense. I like to do that from time to time. It is not feasible to own all the necessary equipment to build your own occasional engine. I'd sure love to though. That is why it is important to seek out a good machine shop. I am working with
Pflugerville Engine and Machine for my engine build up. I could just walk in the door, plunk down and large sum of money and say "Build me 800hp for my Mustang." That would take a lot of the fun out of it for the do-it-yourselfer. Secondly, you are then relying on the machine shop to read your mind at that point. Finally, you should have a good idea of what you want to build and hopefully researched some of the part numbers, matching components, etc. to make it easy on you and the machine shop of your choice. A good machine shop will be able to help you decide on components, show you a lot of trick parts that you didn't know existed and lots of other cool things you may have overlooked. That is why I'm very happy with my decision in machine shops. This web page will show some basics and some of the fun the do-it-yourselfer can have. Other parts of the balance and blueprint are better left to the experts. On with the show...
Cylinder #1 is mocked up with test springs. You wouldn't get very many rpms out of these before floating a valve.
PQ Ferrera valves and 58cc combustion chamber.
Looking in the intake and exhaust.
Looking down the exhaust runner.
I went with a T&D Rocker System. The rocker height will need to ber set up correctly. Here are the tools and instructions.
A close up of the rockers. Here you can see the big beefy adjustment parts. Other brands had smaller components, I liked the strength and durability since this is going to be a street driven engine and also raced hard at the track.
The height gause shows the rocker rail is a touch too low.
The thin silver shims are a perfect match. There were also some thicker black shims.
Checking The Crankshaft to Main Bearing Clearances
The block is securely mounted to the engine stand, degreased, cleaned and then sprayed down with oil again. Dirt is the engine's #1 enemy!
Camshaft bearings were installed at the machine shop. These are just a test set of bearings for the mock build.
A good picture of the casting number and the clearance required when using a stroker crankshaft.
Looking down the cylinder and lifter bores.
New bearings are cleaned in solvent. Dirt is an engine's #1 enemy. I might mention that a few more times. You don't want me to get on the subject about buying used engines that are filled with crud, dirt and metal junk from improper cleaning after the hot tank and jet blasting... grrr... bad memories! Don't worry, prior to the real engine build up I will go in depth on where dirt likes to hide when building an engine. Yes, the cam bearing will have to come back out!
Top half of main bearing installed. The slits in the bearings line up with the oil holes in the block. The main cap side of the bearing are smooth with no openings for the oil to go.
Assebly lube will be used for the mock build.
Assembly lube is spread over the bearings. Some of your sharp engine builders are saying to yourselves - Hey Mick, you can't accurately plastigage the bottom end with assembly lube on the bearings. You are correct. I think it is a sin for bare metal to touch bare metal with out some sort of molecule of lubrication down there. See next picture...
See I haven't totally lost it. The lube is wipes off and only a small film is left on the lower half of the bearing. Plastigage is NOT as accurate as taking an internal bearing measurement and an external crankshaft measurement like a machine shop will do. I don't have tools for that, so plastigage will help me see wheat is going on.
The crankshaft is laid in place.
Here is one of the books I use when building engines.
Well I ran out of time. Let's wrap things up - literally. Remember dirt is your engine's enemy. I might have mentioned that somewhere before. A garbage bag with ties can be tied tightly to keep dust, dirt and other enemys away from your engine.
It is a new day the garbage bag is removed from the engine and the plastigage is laid out for picture time. This shows the part number, size, gauge, and plastic strand that will be cut and laid in place.
Plastigage on the front journal ready to get crushed!
The main caps are cleaned with solvent. Dirt is and engine's enemy.
Sometimes the thrust bearing can require a little help from a light, soft faced hammer. Light, light taps only.
The bolt thread have oil applied for accurate torque.
A picture in the blueprinting book showing how to "read" the plastigage.
Torque specs are your friends. This is from the engine overhaul manual.
The main caps are place in order and properly torqued with the pattern from the overhaul manual. Since this engine has splayed main caps, the outer bolts are smaller and require a different torque spec. Ahhhhh, you sharp engine builders noticed that I didn't not lube my top bearing halves! You are correct. The crankshaft MUST NOT MOVE once the plastigage is installed. The plastigage will act as clearance to keep from having a metal to metal contact. I'm impressed with your attention to detail already!
Unfortunately, my lighting/camera skills are little to be desired. The smashed plastigage ended up right in the garage's light and is difficult to see. I have a better comparison picture a few down. I promise.
EVERYONE keeps a notebook when tearing down and rebuilding an engine, right? Well, it is a good reference tool. Lets face it. Building an engine is not cheap, can be very time consuming, and is not on the top of your wife/girlfriend's priority list, as much as they do like to make you happy. (This used shortblock was my wedding gift from my wife - HOW AWESOME IS THAT!!!)
As promised, a picture of smashed plastigage all lined up on the main cap bearing halves. I'm sure by now you are on the ball and noticed right away that my rear cap has the most clearance (least smashed plastigage), and the center thrust bearing has the least clearance (most smashed plastigage). You will also notice there is some metal on the rear cap from it "walking" a little when the previous owner had the engine. The block and bearing will be cleaned up for proper sizing. Main studs will also be installed to halp prevent the caps from "walking" as much. The center thrust bearing face can be taken down a little, but is in spec. I'll talk to the machine shop about this. It may not be a problem.
The smashed plastigage is removed with a plastic scraper. I have to say it anyway. Never use metal such as a screwdriver to touch a machined clearace part... but you knew that already.
Checking Thrust Bearing Clearance
Okay, okay, the crankshaft is going back in and will be turned this time. Assembly lube is applied to both halves of the bearings. I'm only showing the cap side since there is already a picture of the block side lubed up.
Again, the crankshaft is properly torqued down. See, we get to assemble this engine like three times for one build to make sure everything is in spec instead of crossing our fingers and hoping for the best. The crankshaft is pryed with a screwdriver between the main cap and the crankshaft's counter weight. Never pry near a bearing or machined surface. The feeler gauge is slid between the crankshaft inner machined end and the outer end of the thrust bearing. 0.005" feeler gauge fit and 0.006" feeler gauge did not fit. Spec is 0.005" - 0.010". We are good!
Checking Piston to Valve Clearance and Deck Height
The camshaft is installed. Notice I had to srew a long bolt into the end of the camshaft. This is to provide leverage so you can keep the camshaft level and not bump any of the lobes against the block or bearing surfaces during camshaft installation.
Here is the camshaft card. It tells a lot of information about the camshaft. It also tells where to degree the camshaft - We'll cover that in depth later.
Camshaft markings. I have to send this camshaft back for a regrind. I'm not too happy about that and hope it isn't a problem later on down the road.
A few things to note here. First of all, the camshaft driven gear washer has been ground enough to allow the cam pin to slide out. Very bad. Secondly, the cam chain is worn out and loose on the right side!!!! Mick, what the heck are you doing??? Idiot. Man, you are on your toes out there! Calling me on EVERYTHING! Okay, truth is I plan to use a Danny Bee Belt Drive. I use old components when mocking up an engine to check piston to valve clearances during the WORST conditions. I'll explain more later. I have this camshaft degreed straight up. Straight up was about 1/2 of a degree off from the camshaft card specification. More on degreeing the camshaft later too.
The pin bushing is lubed.
The piston is held agianst the head to make sure the big intake valve lines up with the large machined clearance of the piston, and also matched my notebook drawing that I made during dissambly.
I just like the shiny new parts.
The cylinder and piston sides get lube.
Yep, you know what I am about to say next. Notice the bearing is offset to the left a little on the rod. This is the #1 assembly. Is shares the crankshaft journal with #5. Looking at the picture, #1` will sit to the right of #5. The bearing sits close to the "inside" of the shared crankshaft space. The wide space goes towards the chamfered radius on the crankshaft.
Bet you never realized how close the crankshaft counter weight came to the bottom of the piston. Did you? Okay, so you did, well, here's a picture of that anyway.
Checking the larger L19 rod bolts for proper clearance with the stroker crankshaft.
There is an actual procedure for finding "top dead center". I'm getting tired of typing, so you'll have to read up on that yourselves in the Engine Blueprinting book you are going to run out and purchase. The procedure is in the rebuild manual too. Anyway, here is top dead center.
Here is how much higher the block deck is than the piston. When calculating compression ratio, 0.023" will be a negative number since the piston sits in the "hole" 0.023"
The stud threads are lubed and installed.
The solid roller lifters are cleaned, assembled, lubed and installed. Lube not shown in picture.
I never noticed how close the retaining bar is to the top of the lifter bore until looking at this picture. I'll have to make sure I double check that clearance.
Clay is on the piston valve reliefs.
Another view.
The clay is lubed so the valves don't stick to the clay. Talkum powerder is commonly used also.
The head is installed and torqued properly in place - A mock up head gasket was used, not shown in picture. I almost got that one past you... not!
My pushrod is about this much too short for a good mock up. That is about 1/2". Going to have to get the real measuring adjustable pushrod during final engine assembly.
Remember that worn out timing chain? Here's why. I rotated the engine clockwise, then counter-clockwise to leave two valve marks in the clay for worst possible scenereo.
The clay is sliced in sections and the closest clearance is measured (deepest dent in the clay).
I cut little sections at a time, like cutting a pie. I put all the measurements in my notebook. Piston to valve clearance is 0.091" at the closest using a 0.040" thick head gasket. 0.080" is the minimum. Yea, yea, wow, you are good. I too noticed the exhaust valve did not leave an indention on the clay. Makes me wonder if that camshaft is really cut correctly on the regrind. Originally, the camshaft was cut with only a 0.592 lift on the exhaust side and the intake side was correct with a 0.676. I'd think a true 0.664" exhaust lift would leave some kind of indention.
The rotating assembly is back at the machine shop getting balanced. VERY important step in engine building and engine longevity. Almost as important as keeping dirt out of the engine. LOL!!!!
