NO RESERVE PRICE!!! 7/16/3 - THERE ARE ONLY 3 DAYS LEFT IN THE AUCTION!!! PLACE YOUR BID NOW!!! Here are the pictures and video of the car, so you can get a good idea of what your next car will look, sound, and run like. See them all.
I made a video of the car. Next best thing to being in it yourself for a test drive!
Click here to see the video. Right click and select "Open in New Window"
If you don't already have it, you'll need Windows Media Player version 9.0 to see the video. That 9.0 part is important.
Here are more details about the car: 1987 Dodge Daytona Pacifica Turbo 1. This car is a factory performance / luxury car. It has ALL the good options. 12 button navigator, power steering / brakes (4 wheel discs) / windows / locks / drivers seat, and a (manual) sunroof! And a factory rear window defogger (it works). I'm not sure if the sunroof is factory or aftermarket, but it fits and looks nice. And really helps get the heat out of the car. All the driver's seat power controls work. Adjustable thigh and lumbar supports, back and side wings, and moving the whole seat back and forth and tilting it. And it has a tilt steering wheel also.
So if this car is so great, WHY am I selling it? I have a chance to buy a 1970 'Cuda convertible that has been restored to show condition, and I'm a few grand short on the cash for it. Need to liquidate a few things. This car may be good, but the 'Cuda is FUCKIN' AWESOME!!! This Daytona has no rust on it. All the lights and horn works. The factory AM/FM / cassette radio is in the car and wired to power, but the speakers are unhooked. The previous owner had a different stereo in it and put the stock one back in for me. I don't much care about the radio. I'd rather listen to the turbo wind up! So I never connected it.
All the seats and interior are in good condition. No cuts, rips, or tears in the seats. The headliner (gray) is loose and hangs down in some places.
ENGINE WORK: As you can see, it has a BRAND NEW ENGINE in it. I just finished building this motor a few weeks ago. I have over $600.00 in receipts from the machine shop on the work that was done, and that doesn't include other things I added like the expensive high quality head gasket from Mopar Performance, Complete blow-through intake assembly so an intercooler can be added, paint, gasket kit, and a lot of my own time and labor, not to mention the replacement engine purchase price ($250).
This engine is a 1989 common block 2.2. The HEAVY DUTY block used in race Turbo engines! I found it with 48,000 miles on it. It got new pistons and rings, heavy duty Turbo 2 rods, Clevite 77 tri metal main and rod bearings (full groove mains), reconditioned rods, ARP rod bolts, new head bolts, and the cylinder head was cut 6 thousandths to ensure it was flat. It has Turbo rated valves in it (stock size), and the head was lightly ported. The exhaust manifold was gasket matched. The oil pickup hole was enlarged to ensure no restrictions in the oil supply to the pump. It has a 1989 TBI roller cam in it, which is one of the best grinds for a Turbo 2.2 race engine. And a new timing belt. Current fuel system is set up with the stock T1 logic module, and 2.5 injectors on cylinders 1 and 2. #3 and 4 have 2.2 injectors. I'm watching the spark plugs and they look good. An O2 sensor reading with a multimeter also shows good numbers.
The paint color is the factory Chrysler Blue as was used on engines of the 1970's.
The turbocharger is the stock Garrett T03 that came with the car. It was rebuilt a year before I got the car. That's what the previous owner told me, and it does have a remanufactured tag on it. No in and out play in the bearings. A small amount of radial play. I converted it to Turbo 2 specs, which means rotating the compressor housing and remounting the wastegate actuator. I added new oil feed and return lines. Water inlet and outlet lines are also good.
In the video, you'll see that I have a new AutoMeter vaccum / boost gauge taped to the dash. I was using it to test and compare to the original factory in dash boost gauge. It seems to be pretty close.
I have not modified the boost system in any way. It still runs to a peak of 7 psi like the factory set it. It was just about the time the break-in process was being completed that I got the call about the 'Cuda going up for sale. So development and performance work on the Daytona stopped and the eBay auction started the next day. I am using a factory blow off valve from a 1989 Dodge Caravan Turbo 2.5, which also supplied the entire intake assembly to this car.
The transmission was also rebuilt a year ago. Under cruising or WOT, it shifts solidly and with no slippage. The transmission fluid is full and clean. I didn't do anything to the transmission except put in a new torque converter seal while the engine was out. It didn't NEED a seal, but it's a lot easier to spend a few bucks now than pull the transmission out again later!
When I first got the car, the radiator fan was not turning on as it should have. So I added an aftermarket adjustable fan sensor switch. It's set to turn on at 190 degrees and works great. I've watched the coolant temperature with a thermometer in the radiator cap opening, and when the fan turns on, it drops the temperature right now!
OKAY, I know what you're saying. This car CAN'T be flawless. Well, it isn't. Here are some of the things that still need fixed:
UPDATE 7/16/3 - I fixed the speedometer problem. The speed sensor was bad. Now it's fixed, and the speedometer and 12 button navigator work. And they are accurate also.
The factory oil pressure gauge in the dash doesn't work. The OIL light will come on, but the gauge doesn't do anything. I have an oil gauge under the hood that I used during the initial fire-up. It can be easily routed inside the car. I have the tubing kit but haven't installed it yet.
Paint has a few nicks and chips and scratches here and there.
According to the previous owner, some old lady had backed into the drivers door, which was then repaired and had Bondo added. Over time, the flexing of the door near the door handle while opening it caused the Bondo to crack. I have a picture of it here.
When the door was repaired, the plastic/rubber trim piece on the drivers door was removed and not reinstalled properly. So the previous owner took it off. I have it, it's in good shape, and you will get it with the car.
This car has cruise control, but during the engine swap I removed the assembly for easier access and didn't reinstall it. It will also go with the car.
Driver's door needs new hinge pins. Passenger side works good.
Car needs new brake pads and discs. It has power 4 wheel disc brakes. I looked at the right rear wheel brake assembly and it needs changed. I assume the other 3 wheels are the same way, but haven't pulled those wheels off yet.
Power window motors work, but the plastic operating tracks have stripped teeth. So you have to open and close the windows by hand. Some new plastic tracks and maybe the motor gear also will fix that. Passenger side window still works normally in the bottom 3 inches of travel, then it hits the stripped part of the track. Windows stay up just fine when you close them by hand.
The catalytic converter was clogged, so I took it off and straight piped that part. Power went UP! The rest of the factory exhaust system and muffler is still in the car and looks old to me.
Now that it's up for sale, there's no air cleaner assembly. Once I told someone about selling it to buy the 'Cuda, he just HAD to have my custom built air inlet and K&N filter. He was crazy enough to pay me a lot of money for it, so he got it! I guess he wanted it pretty bad for his Turbo car.
The air conditioning system needs to be recharged and have a new drive belt put on it.
There's not a lot of tread left on the tires, but they're wearing pretty evenly. The car has 15 inch wheels, and 205-60-15 is supposed to be the right size tires for it.
The right rear wheel is missing one wheel stud and lug nut.
Here are some more pictures. These are different from the ones on eBay.
