The Quetta of today is a product of the 1935 plan which was
designed to withstand high magnitude earthquakes after an
earlier earthquake had devastated the city. The main
thoroughfare is Jinnah Road while the parallel
Shahrah-e-Pehlavi is a long, broad boulevard lined with
plane trees. In the Kandahari and Liaquat Bazaars, tea-shops
alternate with stalls selling local handicrafts like fine
Baluchi mirror-work embroidery and green onyx carvings. The
regional culinary speciality known as Sajji is also
plentifully available. although not inexpensive. Sajji is a
whole leg of lamb skewered on a wooden spit atd then
barbecued beside an open lire. Before cooking, the meat is
marinated in salt for two or three hours. Quetta's bazaars
offer a rich assortment of fresh fruit, including grapes,
peaches and apples. The colourfill orchards of the
surrounding countryside gave this part of Baluchistan a
special charm, unique in Pakistan. The Urak Valley, about
twenty-two kilometres from Quetta. seems bathed in eternal
spring, with the green and russet hues of the apple trees
offset by the pale blue of the sky. A small waterfall
splashes down into an irrigation channel and Pathan farmers
gather nearby to drink tea and pass the time of day.
Henna Lake, eleven kilometres from Quetta, provides a
contrasting form of beauty. Set amongst low brown hills.
this picnic spot is popular with the townspeople of Quetta
for its tranquil waters and cooling breezes. In the evening,
as the sun slopes low in the sky, the lake takes on first a
turquoise and then an Emerald green colour, and the shrine
set on the small island in its midst is cast in stark relief
by the last light of the day.
In the outskirts of Quetta the little town of Ziarat stands
amidst a forest of aromatic junipers at a height of 8200
feet (2500 metres). Here, during his last illness. Quaid e
Azam Mohammad Ali Jinnah came to benefit from the clear,
invigorating mountain air. The Quaid stayed far up on one of
thc green hillsides above Ziarat in a house built by the
British in 1882 as the summer headquarters for the Agent of
the Governor-General (shown above). The house, now known
simply as the Residency, is one of those peaceful places in
the world where the soul finds rest. It is surrounded by
green lawns terraced into the contours of the hill and by
bright, softly-scented flower gardens.
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