Once standing on the top of imposing Bala Hisar Fort in
Peshawar, one could see the historic Khyber Valley- gateway
that has seen traders, conquers, nomads and trvellers
passing through it. But today, you can only see the jungle
of high concrete structures, plazas and clouds of hanging
over the cityscape. So much ‘development’ has taken place in
the historic city.
Zaheer-ud-Din Babur crossed the Khyber Pass in the Sixteen
Century on his way from Kabul, and ordered to strengthen the
Fort of Peshawar known as Bala Hisar (the high Fort). The
Fort became a symbol of his victory on this side of the
Khyber Pass. Sikhs and British during their rule reinforced
Bala Hisar for different reasons through.
The history of the fort must surely to that of the city, but
the early days are marked in mystery. It is tempting,
however, to see this as the site of fortification protected
by a moat that was visited and described by the Chines
travelers like Hsuan Tsang and later Ruder Kipling.
Presently Bala Hisar fort houses headquarters of a
prestigious Frontier Corps- the defenders of the mountains.
Many kings have stayed in this Fort cum Royal residence in
the past, contemplating their strategic moves to consolidate
their gains.
The Mosque Mahabat Khan, Peshawar’s outstanding architecture
legacy, in Jeweller’s Bazar was constructed by the Governor
of Peshawar Mahabat Khan Mirza Lerharsib, in 1630 during the
era of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan. The Mosque was
desecrated and badly damaged by the Sikhs in early nineteen
century and later when the fire broke out in 1898. The
British renovated it for the first time and brought back
some of its grandeur.
Presently it is being looked after by the Auqaf Department
and seem in an urgent need of attention. Intricate naqqashi
is fading and creaks have snacked in the courtyard as well
as in the walls of the grand mosque.
For-tiered Cunningham clock tower erected at the turn of the
century on the eve of Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee other
gems in the history of Peshawar that catch the eye of any
passer by.
The famous Chowk Yadgar, is located in the amidst of wide
and sprawling convergence point of different major roads and
bazaars of the city, have witnessed agitation stemming from
religious, political and international issues in the
country. Commemorative square was originally named in the
memory of British Colonel Hastings. In 1969, the square was
dedicated to the heroes of 1965 Indo-Pakistan war.
Edward’s Collage was established in 1901 and named in the
memory of famous administrative Sir Herbert Edward as
missionary boarding school. Later, Haji Sahib of Turangzai
laid down the foundation of Islamia collage in 1911. The
collage has magnificent frontage facing Jamrud Road with its
domes, kiosks and pinnacles rising above the green trees,
which contrast sharply with red brick ornate building. The
architectural taste is peculiarly of Mughal with a touch of
colonial style. Three domed mosque adjacent to the collage
is also of the artistic pleasure.
The British made Peshawar their frontier headquarters. They
also added a new part to the historic city: typical colonial
garrison with Gora Bazarr, church, single men barracks,
bungalows and cantonment Railway Station. The blend of
colonial and Mughal architecture, shady trees, flower beds
along pathways and spacious
Houses in garrision in contrast to the multi storied
residences in the city still stand out boldly.
Cosmopolitan character of Qissa Khawani Bazaar-Piccadally of
Peshawar is lined with its traditional kehwa khanas, Tikka,
Chapli Kabab and dry fruit shops along with modern show
rooms of leatger ware and bright coloured garments. The
stories of the Amirs of Bokhara and the Khans of Khiva and
regional love of ‘Adam and our Khani have been substituted
by satellite receivers continuously breaking news and
telling amazing tales of fiction from all over the world.
General Avitabil, the Italian mercenary who was appointed
governor of Peshawar by Maharaja Ranjet Singh, built the
bazaar in the present shape in the early nineteenth century.
Among tourist, it is still best known Bazaar of the city.
Afghan refugees who came to Peshawar as a result of Soviet
occupation have added yet another dimension in the character
of the city in general this bazaar in particular where they
can be seen doing business from exchanging money to selling
Kehwa.
In a grand Victorian hall, the Peshawar Museum houses one of
the world’s best collection of Gandhara art, including
stupas depicting the Buddha’s stupas collection presents a
clear picture of life of Peshawar Valley during first four
centuries A.D when Peshawar was the capital of a vast
empire. Handicrafts, tools and cloths of different tribes in
the ethnological portion I the museum are also interesting
and throw light on the cultural heritage of the region.
Life during the early days may be severed in old city.
Historic houses having bay windows, jharoka and naqqashi
work that may be reminiscent of Gandhara. Persian or Greek
art are still servicing against all odds.
Sethi houses built during 1830-34, wood - work added in them
in 1983, are good specimen of the past. Expert from
International Union of Conservation have already carried out
a survey for conservation of the houses and the result is
still awaited . but the requirement is that Archaeology
Department, city development agencies and real estate
developers, all should work for preservation of legendary
character of the city holding thousands of secrets.
Beyond history, heritage and culture, Peshawar faces all
problems urbanization. City once famous for gardens and
flowers is turning gray. A case study of Peshawar has
reveled that the city has lost 2700 acres of agriculture
land during the two decades (1965-85). This in the addition
to 400 of acres of vacant land that has been also eaten up
by expending urban functions. In the same period, the land
under parks and green space has shrunk from 163 to 75 acres.
With such thick layer of history compressed so tightly,
Peshawar today is continuously growing and expanding. The
need of the hour is that the concerned authorities should
make plans for conserving its heritage otherwise we will
lose our rich culture.
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