The Unofficial Warhammer 40k Costume and Prop Archive |
|
|
Home Site Information Costumes Weapons Helmets Vehicles Statues Other Links |
Name: Adam Bagley Location: UK Website: http://www.hobbyshed.co.uk/model_kit_modelmaking_gallery_warhammer_40k_servoskull.htm Publicly Displayed: Gamesday UK 2003 Materials: "A great deal of planning went into the construction. I started by working out the appearance of the model, drawing sketches to work from and writing down assembly ideas as I went along. Chosen features included cables trailing from the skull to make it look like it was flying, transparent support from the base to further emphasise flight and a bionic eye and laser. I soon realised the model needed to be light and balanced because of the nature of the base so I formed the bulk of the skull by covering an inflated balloon in papier-mâché. An area was left uncovered for access inside the skull and by using fine metal mesh I reinforced areas that I thought might come under stress later on. When it was dry, modelling putty was sculpted over the papier-mâché into a basic skull shape. When that was dry, the balloon was popped and removed. Next, I started to add features. Holes were drilled into the back of the skull and hardware bolts were inserted from the inside to act as pins for the cables. They were glued into place using two-part epoxy adhesive. The cables were constructed from aluminium tubes that fitted tight over the bolts. Net curtain wire was inserted into the tubes to prevent kinking whilst they were bent into shape. The tubing was then glued onto the bolts, again using two-part epoxy adhesive, and tops from super glue tubes were glued to the ends of each. Bolts and aluminium tubes were also used as a frame for the limbs. The limbs were made using wooden rod that was turned on a lathe, plastic knitting needles, a modelling clamp, insulated cable from an old electric fire, some parcel string and plenty of sculpted modelling putty. The ears were made from sink plug hole strainers and furniture studs. Furniture studs were also used across the top of the skull. With the basic structure complete, I started work on detail. The bionic eye housing was sculpted on with space left to affix a rubber part salvaged from an old camera. When dry, the edges were defined using a scalpel and abrasive paper. A section was cut from a metallic blue Christmas tree bauble and glued inside the camera part before it was glued into place as the lens. Plastic card was then used to fill the space between the eye and the ear. A piece of blue light reflecting rod was glued to the end of the main knitting needle on the right limb. This would represent the laser. The skull was again covered with modelling putty; a thin layer this time, with texture created by patting the pliable surface with rough abrasive paper and a toothbrush. When the putty was dry, the eye socket, nose, teeth and surface details were crafted using a mini drill and various grinding bits. Finally, the skull was tested for balance and positioning and, when I was happy with the results, a hole was drilled into its base and a small bolt was inserted from the inside and glued into place. The access hole in the skull was then sealed and blended in. The base was constructed out of thick MDF which was cut to shape using a table saw. A hole cutter was used to create holding for a transparent cylinder from a bird feeder, upon which the skull would rest. A hole was drilled into the top of the cylinder so that the bolt at the base of the skull could be fed through and secured to it a using a nut and washer. With the construction complete, I moved onto painting. I decided to work with acrylics and because of the large scale I wanted to keep the colour palette and highlighting simple and to a minimum. After covering the eye lens and the laser tip with masking solution, the skull and MDF base were given an undercoat of matt black, applied by aerosol. The skull was then given a coat of medium brown followed by a coat of medium flesh, both of which were stippled on. The eye housing, studs and portions of the ears were then drybrushed with gun metal and highlighted with silver before being lightly glazed with red ink. The cables were drybrushed medium brown and their connectors were drybrushed medium grey. Finishing touches included hazard stripes painted onto a section of the right limb, a transfer applied to the forehead and dirtying up by sporadically drybrushing medium grey and medium and light browns across the model. A paint-chipped effect was added to the hazard stripes by using black and silver paint. Special attention was given to the teeth; I smudged in brown, green and then yellow to get a decayed, rotted look. Finally, the model and base were given a coat of matt varnish and when this was dry the masking solution was peeled away, the cylinder was inserted into the base and the model was attached. Patches of gloss varnish were applied to the teeth. In conclusion, the model was a challenging build from start to finish. Some of the techniques mentioned took a long time to complete but, at the end of the day, it was a labour of love. I am particularly happy with how the paint job came out. I think the overall look is quite impressive given the limited palette. I am also happy with the eye lens and laser as natural light reflects off them in such a way that you'd think they were battery or mains operated. A very unusual and unique piece for my display cabinet" 
|
