The pictures displayed above are "Do it yourself" applications that were completed at home. The supplies involved were basic and can be found at the local mall. In case you were wondering, the purple to pink fade belongs to my wife. No, she won't feel remorse when she pulls the trigger to eliminate you. She's mean. :)
For those of you that want to know how to paint a Tippmann at home the right way - or any other marker for that matter, here's the HOW 2...
The paint used was enamel, purchased at Walmart in standard size spray cans. I chose Krylon since it dries very quickly. The clear coat was the same brand to ensure it was fully compatible with the color underneath.
The prep process took about 30 minutes. Take your gun apart and wipe away the oil. Be sure to clean all internal areas before the outside of the gun. Oil of any kind can cause a paint reaction known as "fisheyes" - leaving a dimple in the finish. Also, now would be a good time to polish the internals of your Tippmann if you haven't already done so. I used two grades of steel wool instead of sandpaper. Final buffing of the internals can be done with mag wheel polish. This will ensure that your working parts move with less resistance.
NOTE: There is nothing wrong with using sandpaper, so long as you do it properly. You run a risk of taking too much material away from the chamber with sandpaper and could render your marker useless. IE: a chamber too big or "out of round" for the bolt O-rings to properly seal against leaks. Remember this: steel wool and mag wheel polish will do a great job without risking damage to your gun.
Since I wasn't at the shop, I used rubbing alcohol on a cloth to ensure the parts were oil free. There is a commercial chemical known as "Prep-sol" made for this purpose. You can also use Simple Green, a biodegradable cleaner that paint has proven to be compatible with. This is before the initial sanding procedure.
Preparing the outside is fairly easy. I decided to smooth up imperfections in my Tippmann's casting before final sanding. This wasn't a "must do" step, but I felt the finish was poor out of the box. I don't recommend this step for Tippmann owners unless you know exactly what you're doing. Your gun will look just fine without doing this. I chose to do it because I am experienced with painting. Trust me, your gun will still look great.
With some 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper, carefully sand the outside halves of your gun. You can use steel wool in areas that the sandpaper won't reach. Be sure it's not the same steel wool you used to polish the internals with... it's probably contaminated with oil. You don't have to remove all of the old finish, your'e just roughing it up to give the primer a good grip.
Now take the parts to be painted to the sink and wash them with soap and water. A mild hand soap will do. Rinse them well and ensure they are completely dry.
Using masking tape, cover all the openings of the gun to prevent paint overspray from getting inside. If you are painting a M98, your'e now ready to put the halves back together without the internals. I went to the parts store and bought two bolts the same thread as the stock bolts that hold the marker halves together. Although you can use the stock bolts, I did not want mine painted. ( I like them black. ) Put one in the front and one at the back.
You are now ready to hang it up and prime. Use a quality automotive based primer. Neutral gray will give you a light base coat and make your color easier to apply. Pick one that says it can be used for aluminum applications if possible. Your local parts store may have it on stock. Remember, your primer need not be aluminum compliant, but it will provide better adhesion if it is.
Hang the parts to be painted. Take a regular coat hanger and fashion it straight. Run one end through the rear-most bolt hole of the marker and bend it to support the gun. ( Not the hole in the rear sight tab for you Tippmann painters... it will mar your finish when you take it out. ) I bent the ends of the wire so it could be hung on a dowl rod. That way the gun was suspended and not resting on a freshly painted surface between coats.
Before you spray, ask your parents or your spouse if the chosen location is acceptable. The living room is really not a good idea. Be sure that the area is well ventilated and don't paint your sisters cat. Apply one very light coat of primer and let it dry according to the directions on the can. Do not try to cover it all at one time or it will run. Next, scuff (not sand), the dry primer lightly with your 320 grit sandpaper. Wipe off any dust and prime it one more time. Let it dry and re-scuff, trying not to cut through the primer and expose the aluminum underneath. If you do cut through, prime it lightly at just those spots. Let it dry for several hours or better yet, overnight. This will give the primer time to tighten down properly.
It's paint time! Scuff the dry primer lightly with your 320 grit sandpaper. Wipe away any dust and re-suspend the marker. Apply the paint in numerous light coats. Just like primer, never try to cover it all in one session. Trust me here or you'll get a run. Apply the paint with a smooth motion and keep the can moving. DON'T BE CONCERNED THAT YOU CAN STILL SEE THE PRIMER. If you chose a metallic color, chances are it will cover about as well as a cow whizing on a flat rock. In that case, you may need to apply your paint in micro thin coats, perhaps as many as 7 or 8 of them.
Be sure to let your paint tack up properly before you apply subsequent coats. This could take 5 to 15 minutes depending on the brand of paint and the temperature of where you are painting. You can touch the masking tape areas on your gun to ensure it is "tacky" and not wet. Don't worry about seeing the primer even if your'e nearing your final coat. Just go slowly or you'll be doing it over.
Apply no more than (4) light coats of paint for non-metallic colors. The last coat can be a applied a little slower to build the shine, but the first should be light. Your color, or in my case, colors should be applied back to back. If you aren't going to expose lettering, (such as the Tippmann logo), let your paint tack and follow with the clear. Apply the clear coat in the same fashion as the paint, letting it tack up between coats. The final coat of clear can be a little slower for the shine factor. Apply no more than (3) coats of clear.
If your marker has raised lettering like that of the "Tippmann" logo and you want it show through, allow the gun to dry before appling the clear coat. Once it has properly dried, ( 24 hours minimum ), carefully wrap a small dowl rod with 320 grit paper. This takes some effort and a steady hand. Sand the paint from the face of the letters using the dowl to keep your paper away from the rest of the painted surface. Sanding free hand will most likely result in the need for a repaint. You have to be slow and steady with the dowl. Once you have the letters exposed, use a piece of 400 grit to reduce the scratches made by the 320 grit paper. Do it again with 600 grit to remove any remaining scratches.
Now, with a piece of 1000 grit paper, lightly scuff the whole gun. Yep, the whole gun. Notice I said ONE THOUSAND GRIT paper and the word LIGHTLY. 1000 grit paper will feel like newspaper and seem as if your'e doing nothing to the finish. Trust me, you are. Your'e giving the clear coat something to grip in order to avoid runs in the final coat. Wipe away any dust and re-suspend the marker. Apply a single coat of clear as outlined above.
Durability issues. This is for those of you who have permission to use the household oven. Placing the finished piece inside will greatly add to its durability. Allow at least 1 hours time from when you finished with the clear coat. You'll need to suspend the piece inside the oven, as lying it on a rack will make it look like a hot dog cooked on the grill. Set it at 150 degrees for about an hour, but don't leave it unattended. Oven temps can vary and you don't want to burn the paint, or worse the house for that matter.
Let your marker dry a day before reassembly. Put your marker back together and impress your friends. Most of them will doubt you did it yourself. The pics here of my gun don't do it justice. Yours will look that way too, if you follow these steps. Hey it's cheap and easy. Have fun with your gun.
The web offers numerous links to sites that can provide inspiration for your creativeness. Additional links to places that perform outstanding custom work on paintball markers also exist. Although the cost is often much higher, their commercially applied finishes are much more durable than automotive based paints.
