Custom Built Mahogany Table, 12' open 7' closed, seats 14
This solid Mahogany table has six legs, the center legs slide on extensions with dovetails for alignment so they can be kept in the center. There are four leaves, each 15" wide. The top is 5/4" thick and the legs are 3-3/4" in diameter. They were hand turned. In the shop photo, the table is being finished with several coats of polyurethane. The other photo shows the table set for a feast after delivery.
Having been a builder and restorer of wood furniture for some 25 years, I feel it is time to pass on some things I have learned. This is for my benefit, as well as yours and all the other tradesmen that have to deal with the mistakes of furniture owners. Many times I have tackled a fine piece of furniture and thought "if only". If only the owner had cared for the finish, I wouldn't have to strip it all away. The original finish could be restored. If only the owner hadn't driven nails in the loose rungs instead of glueing or having them professionally repaired. On this web page I will attempt to give tips that will help you take care of your furniture and make my job easier when your furniture finally needs professional care. I am doing this in my spare time, so you will have to check back once in a while as the page expands. Hope you enjoy and learn.
Custom Table in the Queen Anne Style
(Taken outside - top is reflecting the sky)
Good Furniture????? A few years ago I was called to repair the corner of a large cherry hutch that a dog had chewed. The owner was not too happy when I told her the hutch was made out of particleboard with a "photo" finish. She had paid over $1,500 for the piece and had been assured it was "solid" cherry. The hallmarks of good furniture, dovetail joints, dado joining of shelves or bottoms and sides, few screws and no nails or staples, and most of all, real wood, are becoming harder to find. I have a habit of walking through furniture stores and opening drawers, looking inside, under, and behind pieces of furniture. Even with the best and most well known brands, it is becoming harder and harder to find a drawer not put together with staples instead of dovetails.
Does this mean the furniture is no good? Not necessarily. While good joinery is better than staples, it is also the reason a piece of custom furniture costs $2,000 while you can buy a like piece, commercially made for $1,400. There are some good points to the new furniture. First, it is not as expensive since it is less labor intensive to build. Second, it will probably not warp or split from climate changes in your home. Particleboard is very stable and flat. Third, you can get that expensive Cherry or Mahogany finish without buying the expensive wood and most people will not know the difference. The drawbacks, however are just as important! First, you get what you pay for. When the stapled on face of your drawer comes off or a leg breaks because it was not securely attached with mortise/tenon joinery and glue blocks, you will notice two things: you will be kind of upset that this happened to your "New","Expensive" furniture and you will be more upset at the expense of having it fixed. Second, while the new materials are nice and flat and stable, fixing them is almost impossible. A good cabinet maker can cut a dutchman (patch) into real wood and make it all but disappear. It isn't so easy on particleboard. Joining a real wood patch to particleboard is disaster. They don't expand/contract at the same rate and will show, fall of, etc. Using particleboard for the patch isn't easy either as shaping and matching it in to the existing is tough. (You're shaping mostly glue!) Last, but far from least, is touching up the finish. Most new finishes are actually a very, very thin coating of vinyl that carries the "picture" of the wood. Once damaged, the only way to fix it is with artist's colors and actually paint a little picture of the missing finish. Other commercial finishes are stain and grain work over a flat paint finish. This way the wood surface does not have to match and can even be different woods. The base coat brings it all together and the stain is applied and graining added. These finishes are hard to repair, and impossible to refinish so they look like the original. Surprise! As you strip off the finish and find particleboard, or a mix of sweet gum, poplar and birch.
Mahogany Hope Chest with drawer
The bottom-line: As always, the bottom line is what you can afford versus what you want to accomplish. If you like changing your furniture every once in a while, or you just can not afford hand crafted or top end furniture, than the furniture we've been discussing will do fine. With care it will last many years, but I wouldn't plan on it becoming a family heirloom for your grandchildren. On the other hand, if you really appreciate rubbing your hand over the warmth of real wood or looking at fine, tight, joinery. If you like knowing that your piece of furniture can take a few nicks and bangs and still be presentable or repaired; or if you just like fine things that you can pass one. Then, you should consider spending the money to acquire the best furniture.
Pine Armoire
Alternative: Have you considered used furniture. Going to auctions or used furniture outlets can turn up some exceptional pieces of furniture. Older furniture is more likely to be solid wood and properly joined. It may need refinishing (at least it can be done), a minor repair, or just some wax, but you have a piece of craftsmanship that will last lifetimes.
Care of Fine Furniture
When you have invested many dollars into your fine wood furniture, you want it to last for years and years. Really fine furniture should last to be passed on for generations. However, wood is wood and it needs TLC!
Cleaning: Properly cared for, wood furniture needs little cleaning beyond dusting. However, if the environment is oily (near the kitchen) or very dusty (forced hot air heat), you may need to wash it down occassionally. Also, use of oily or too much wax will cause build up that traps dust and becomes gunk. A wash with a soft cloth dampened with mild liquid soap will remove most dirt. Rinse with a cloth dampened with clean water and wipe dry. It it's really greasy wiping with the soft cloth and a little commerical paint thinner (mineral spirits) will remove the grease and built up wax.
Rewaxing is necessary after cleaning. The finish must be protected from small scratches and dirt that will dull and eventually wear through the finish. Use a quality paste wax. The kind sold for floors is just as good as any. Wipe on a thin coat over a small area. You want to be able to buff it before it sets up. As soon as it's applied, start rubbing with a clean soft cloth. Rub with the grain and not too hard. Faster is better as the heat from rubbing drys the wax. You will feel the drag on the cloth change to a slick feeling. Never let the wax dry or 'haze' over before you start rubbing. Once the wax is set you will wear out several elbows trying to smooth and polish it. If you get streaks, apply a very thin coat of the wax and immediately buff it out. If all else fails, a very, very light spray of spray furniture polish on your cloth will remove the streaks.
"WE'VE MOVED!" - Robert A. Margerum, Custom Woodworking is now located in Jamison City, PA in Columbia County, (still servicing the Bucks County area) Specializing in custom built 'country' furniture, wood furniture repairs, and custom millwork.
My Favorite Links
Custom Woodworker
Wood Magazine
The Electronic Neanderthal
Shareware for woodworkers
Fine Furniture-College of the Redwoods
Email: woodsmith@mailcity.com
