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RABBIT HAVEN BY THE SEA

 
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SOCIALIZATION

Rabbits are social creatures by nature.  Be prepared to spend a lot of time with your rabbit.  The first relationship your bun will need to develop is with it's caretaker.  Some rabbits won't think twice and will accept you immediately.  Other buns will need your undivided attention and love in order to gain a trusting  relationship with you.  The most effective tool for bonding with your rabbit is patience.

On your buns first day home, you will want to allow them some adjustment time to take in all the new surroundings, scents and sounds of his/her new household.  Afterwards, your easiest way to bond with your new pal will be to just sit quietly on the floor in their free run space (discussed later in "excercise").  Do not attempt to pet or play.  Just observe.   Eventually, with most buns, curiosity gets the best of them and they will seek you out.  When your bunny comes to check you out, do not immediately grab him to cuddle.   Let him climb around in your lap on his own.  You may need to do this once or you may have to do it everyday for several months.  PATIENCE!

You will know when its time to play with your bun...you will see their level of comfort develop.

 

Excercise

A house rabbit requires at least 3-4 hours of free play time per day outside of it's cage in a rabbit-proofed area.  This allows your rabbit to socialize, learn and bond.  These elements are the key in helping both you and your pet form a strong bond.  A rabbit that constantly sits in a cage with little or not entertainment or affection will not be the warm and friendly companion you seek.  He will not learn the in's and out's of becoming a member of the family.  He will generally become leery of interaction and will not gain the trust required to become a functioning member of the household.  This situation is unenjoyable to both parties invovled.

Your rabbit's free time outside of it's cage should be fun!  A gated off bathroom or kitchen provides a safe environment for your rabbit as these areas have few low lying wires or obstacles (rugs, furniture etc).  All wires in your rabbit's environment should be shielded from your bun's teeth and nails at all costs.  Hard tubing is available to coat those long and interesting electrical cords to keep your friend safe from harm.

 

Training!

Your rabbit can be house trained!!!  Many people do not realize that the domestic rabbit generally prefers a clean home!  Rabbits can be taught to use the litter box rather easily.  Spayed and neutered rabbits generally pick up this habit rather quickly.  A litter box with safe litter should be placed in your buns cage and also in its free-roaming area during excercise time.  Safe litter includes aspen, carefresh, yesterday's news or a hay based box (a hay based box is lined with newspaper and covered in fresh hay).  The most stubborn buns tend to go for the last alternative with the hay.  While they will continue to leave some loose pellets (stool) to mark their territory, they will do most of their "official business" in the box.  Never use pine or cedar shavings as the odors can impair a rabbits' respiratory system.  Also avoid sand, cat litter or "popcorn" matter as these materials can become lodged in your pets nose and throat.  Litter boxes should be changed and cleaned daily with a gentle detergent and dried before refilling.

Toys

Rabbits love toys!!!!  Provide your bun with hard plastic toys.  While some toys are made just for your new pet, make sure they are safe.  Ensure that your rabbit cannot chew through them or remove parts that could make them choke.  Most rabbits enjoy rattles, bells and devices that they can make lots of noise with.  Prime examples of great rabbit toys are human baby and toddler toys.  They generally contain no removable parts and are invented solely to provide safe stimulation.  Plastic key rings, rattles etc equal fun time!  Wooden chews, treat balls and large hard plastic sports balls may also intrigue your buns intelligence and provide hours of enjoyment.  Great toys are available at pet supply stores as well as online stores...

Try Bunnybytes!

We are in love with the bunny treat ball here!

Can I bond two?

A friend for my bunny....Can I bond a pair?

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Rabbits are social by nature.  They crave interaction and stimulation.  In the wild, rabbits/hares live in warrens and dens and provide themselves with a social order.  Mates are generally kept for life.  Intruders to their societies are usually met with "war" or displeasure.  Those cute little animals on your front lawn in the morning have the ability to  kill an intruder rabbit.  ;) They are not as innocent and helpless as you may think.   Rabbits protect their families and loved ones.  They depend on each other for companionship, food and safety.    In nature they are team players.   As much as we may think we have domesticated them, they are not solitary creatures at heart.  Even Queen Enid needs a friend or two.  

Rabbit introductions to other rabbits can be lengthy but well worth it.   It took several long days to introduce Duncan and Enid.  They did not get along at first sight.  This is typical.  Rabbits, as stated before, do have structural hierarchies.  Someone will be dominant and someone will be submissive.   That is where the relationship will begin.  Duncan actually started off the dominant one and Enid the submissive bun.  After they became friends the rolls changed.  Enid was in charge but there was no fight leading up to that crowning.   Some days Duncan and I would both be hiding from her wrath!

You will want to make sure both bunnies are neutered/spayed.  This is IMPORTANT!!!

Slow introductions are best.  They WILL generally fight the minute they meet eachother.  They need to establish their order.  Some will accept eachother within minutes....some will take days or weeks and others will seem forever hopeless.   You will need to use your common sense as to which catagory your duo is fitting into.  I suggest bringing your bun along on a scheduled blind date, allowing them to meet in a neutral territory and not jumping in the minute you see them go at it.  This has to happen or you will never get anywhere.  You will need to prepare yourself for the difference between "wrestling to be king" and "I'm going to kill you".  The "I'm going to kill you" fight needs to be broken up immediately. 

If you believe it is a match that can work, go for it.  In time the buns will be so happy to have each other.  You will appreciate their bond.     Placing them together in a carrier and going for short car rides with them helps them to bond.  Only go for a few minutes...as going in the car seems to stress buns out.  Allowing them to meet first through cages placed next to eachother helps to ease the future interaction.   Do not introduce them in a cage.   Introduce them in free territory.  The cage can make them both feel nervous and they may tend to over react. 

One of my favorite bonded duos that we see very often, is the relationship that happens between cats and rabbits indoors.  They should of course be monitored but we've seen a lot of friendships develop between the unlikely pair. 

For more info on bonding...please visit....

http://www.rabbit.org/journal/3-4/two-rabbits.html

 

 

 

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Last modified: April 04, 2005