Unending military convoys coupled with an aging road system and lots of stinky diesel trucks make for a slow and slightly nauseous trip out of Srinagar. The open ditch full of raw sewer didn't help...

These are CRPF soldiers, India's equivalent of the national guard in the U.S. They are everywhere in Kashmir--in the streets, on the highways, in the city, in the mountains...

The sign says it all.