Proud of My Pruning - Shrubs
Topic: Maintenance

 

Ladies – don’t get too smug.  Guys – don’t feel too hard done by BUT, guys, we often do TERRIBLE thing when pruning and heaven help the plants when we use power tools to prune because…we do TERRIBLE things faster.  So let’s try and break the cycle.  As soon as the snow goes away, it’s shrub pruning time.

 

Texts tell us to prune spring flowering shrubs, such as Forsythia, after they bloom and to prune summer flowering shrubs in early spring.  This is done to preserve flowers.  I disagree with this conventional wisdom and feel it would prompt better re-growth to prune in late March or early April, (as soon as the snow is gone).  This will ensure that the plant will grow vigorously within a few weeks, to replace the lost wood.  Don’t feel you’re losing flowers.  Bring branches inside, put them artfully in a vase and change the water every couple of days.  Many shrubs, including double-flowering almond, Forsythia, and quince can be forced into bloom quite easily.  If you’re just thinning the growth, there will be plenty of flowers left to enjoy in the garden.

 

You see, pruning shrubs is our chance to turn back time.  The goal is to prune away old, weak, or damaged growth.  The plant then replaces the lost wood with young, healthy, disease-resistant growth.  Many of us have difficulty pruning off large branches.  We snip delicately for fear of hurting the plant.  Three words will give you permission to hack and slash.  “Pruning promotes vigor!”  There!  Doesn’t that make you feel better?

 

Down to brass tacks:  First prune out the 3 D’s –dead, diseased and damaged wood then, interfering wood, (branches rubbing against other branches).  Remove branches which grow into pathways, interfere with mowing, and so on.  Look at how the plant is growing, taking into account the next few years of projected growth (best guess).  If you still haven’t removed more than a third of the total growth, (don’t feel you HAVE to), you may thin the branches allowing air flow through the plant, and bringing out its artistic form.  Use good, sharp tools.  They make a cleaner cut which heals well.  Sharp tools also reduce your effort.  Be careful.  You don’t want to prune a finger.  (Would it affect your view of me as an Authority to admit I have done this?  Well, there it is.)  Try to keep the specimen balanced for aesthetics.  Frequently step back a good distance.  Look at it from different angles and perspectives.  Cut back to ¼” above a bud or back to a side branch.  Never leave stubs since the plant can’t heal them properly.

 

Ideally, with multi-stem shrubs, we want to remove one third of the eldest growth every spring, cutting branches back as close as possible to the ground.  If you’ve gotten a bit behind in this, getting into the shrub tends to be difficult.  There’s another option.  ‘Coppicing’ is an old technique coming back into vogue.  Using loppers, a hand saw or chainsaw, cut the entire shrub to the ground.  This works on most multi-stem shrubs including Spirea, quince, Forsythia, privet, double-flowering almond, Weigela, elderberry, honeysuckle, mock-orange, dogwood, shrub roses and many others.  Don’t try it with grafted shrubs, evergreens or with single stem shrubs and small trees.  (If you’re unsure, email me at sdjames@on.aibn.com and ask.)

 

Now, there are two important things to know about coppicing.  Never touch the saw blade to the dirt.  This instantly dulls the saw.  If you’re using a chainsaw, you don’t need to worry about this as much but count on having the chain sharpened when you’re done.  The other important bit is - don’t wimp out once you start.  Cut the shrub all the way to the ground.  Don’t even leave little stubs an inch high.  Rake out the loose bits in the crown and then cut it down even further so that there’s nothing left but little circles. The whole idea is to ensure that the new growth is growing from underneath the soil putting out fresh roots as it does.  This way you rejuvenate the shrub totally.  When I tell customers that I will be doing this, they always nod and smile in understanding and then faint when they see me walking past the window with the WHOLE shrub.  I mean it - all the way to the ground.  Nothing will happen for six weeks then growth will start slowly then - gangbusters.  By the end of July, you will usually have half your growth back.  It may be necessary to tip back the shrub in mid June.  That is, just pinch off the top inch of the branches to slow the growth and help make it bushier.  Don’t go poking around in the soil looking for the new growth.  You’ll end up breaking off the new buds then you’re out of luck and the whole process is shot.

 

The good news is that this is your first opportunity to get outside after the long winter and get active in the garden.  We’ve waited long enough!

 

In June we’ll talk about pruning evergreens and next month, we’ll talk about the new and wonderful plants that are coming on the market this year!  Lookin’ forward!

The Landscaping Industry
Topic: Environmental

With the recent successful fight against pesticides and the (less successful) fight against gas-powered blowers, the landscaping industry has taken a lot of heat. It has been painted as something of an environmental bad guy.  Accordingly, our trade has undertaken, not only to minimize our negative impact on the planet through education of our members, but also to draw the attention of the public to all the 'green' good we do.

 Think of all the public parks, green spaces, private gardens and restored/enhanced natural areas you see every day as you drive around.  The man-made wetland along the 407 between the 401 and Britannia is a lovely and inspiring example of a habitat created to control water flow and give a home to wildlife.  Look down from the CN Tower on the urban forest of the GTA.  Remember this was all 'landscaped' professionally.

The industry has been working harder than ever to educate its members and the public about how to enhance and protect nature.  One need only look at a list of speakers at landscape trade shows and monthly 'chapter meetings' to see how many environmentally themed speeches are being given: drought tolerant gardens, using native plants, creating wildlife habitat, green roofing, urban vegetable gardens... and the list goes on.

Recently, the Landscape Ontario, our trade group, working with the Toronto Botanical Gardens, sponsored a talk on 'Greening Our Cities' by David Suzuki.  It was packed with an engaged crowd of professional landscapers and the general public.

Dr. Suzuki was amazing! His message that ''health and the environment are the same thing" resonated with the crowd.

Our focus on economics before all, over time, including the SHORT run, is flawed.  He pointed out that the words 'economics' and 'ecology' come from the same root - 'eco' which means 'home'.  To protect us NOW, we have to put the 'eco' back into economics.

The message that Dr. Suzuki gave us was one of urgency but also one of hope.  "The brain is curious and inventive. We CAN affect the future.  We CAN choose a path to avoid dangers."

We must understand and teach that nature has economic value.  Wetlands clean water.  Forests clean air.  Meadows support pollinating insects without which fully one third of our food would not be possible.

I was one of the 'bold 6' who waited in line to ask Dr. Suzuki a question:  ''How can we get corporations to act in our best interests, since we seem to have trouble getting our government to pass appropriate legislation?'' He replied that “we can NEVER expect corporations to work for us” since it goes against their simple, profit-driven nature.  Dr. Suzuki felt that voting for politicians that stood for environmental reforms and putting pressure on the government to pass legislation - letting them know how much we care about the planet and our own futures - was the only viable way to enact change.  (Actually, he got quite irate about it making me very glad I had asked the question!)

Compared to the rest of the world, Canada is rich.  At the same time, we rank 29th of 30 of the world’s industrialized nations in protecting the environment.  There is tremendous profit to be made from green economics.  Look at the state of the auto industry where North American companies have fought tooth and nail against eco-protection, (catalytic converters and more stringent emission and fuel efficiency standards), versus the Asian and European manufacturers.  Which cars are selling?  'Nuff said!

The Swedes have shown the world that sustainable logging and paper production can be quite profitable, instead of our technique of clear cutting and replanting.

We need to demand, in Suzuki’s words, "sustainability within a generation" and, before legislation is passed, ask "does an action get us closer to that goal”

As individuals, we can support global environmental efforts such as the Green Belt Movement in Africa and the Nature Conservancy.  We can change the way we live our lives to produce less waste and use fewer resources.  Little things like disconnecting downspouts and re-directing them into the garden or creating a natural area in the yard to protect pollinators and wildlife make a difference.  Working with local counselors and industry to urge them to do their part also helps, especially if you can show how it will save them money.

Our landscaping industry is working with schools to educate a generation about the importance of the environment and landscaping.  Youth are being encouraged to plant trees.  (I believe tree planting, locally and globally to be THE MOST IMPORTANT SINGLE IMPACT we can make to reverse climate change.)

There are things to do.  We can do them…even, and perhaps especially, now when the economy looks so shaky. 

 

No Snow Involved!
Mood:  bright

In the U.S. Virgin Islands, lies St. Thomas.  I went for several reasons but plants were high on the list.  In one sense the gardens were not very prevalent and yet, the whole island was a garden.  For old time gardeners who are neophyte tropic travelers, the simple abundance will be enough - bromeliads on trees, Seagrapes right to the sea and the soft, sweet scent of jasmine frequently drifting across your path.

 

From the second I left the terminal and was hit by that first tropical blast of humid, pungent air, I realized the island was more jungle than desert – a bit of a change from many tropical islands.

 

Melanie at the beautiful ‘Gallery St Thomas’, down in the jewelry district - a fellow gardener, pointed out “There's very little soil and lots of microclimates, making it very difficult”, also “many plants you might want to grow just won't”.  A bit of advice which surprised me was that “the iguanas and goats are big and eat a lot and birds stop you from growing veggies.”  (Isn’t it a pleasure to find and chat to a REAL gardener with real observations?)  According to Melanie, many people hire off-island such as Dominicans to garden.

 

Beyond plants there are several great reasons to visit.  Visit Bailey at Udder Delights for the most incredible milkshakes.  All the taxi drivers know it…and everyone.  Check it out on your way to Magan’s Bay – one of National Geographic’s ten most beautiful beaches in the world.  The snorkeling was fantastic all around the island and a short ferry trip gets you to stunning St. John and more amazing snorkeling at Hawk’s Nest Beach. 

 

Much of the island could be described as easy but simple.  Fall in the water and you’ll see fish.  Spin around and open your eyes and you’ll see new plants – not many different kinds but they’re all new.  Even the birds were new and different – not a great variety but seeing flocks of Brown-throated Parakeets and a few other interesting species (can I say Brown Boobies in a small town paper?) was worth it.

 

Every morning I would hike down to the beach looking for new species.  I came across a sign for an arboretum.  Excitedly, I followed the path to the interpretive sign.  I was impressed, until I proceeded further and found…nothing.  Apparently there are some species which remain ONLY in this woodlot, but how does one find them?  No signage.  Nothing.  Hopeless, I meandered and went around one final curve before heading back.  There, ahead of me, was another sign.  I had found the Shangri-La – (do all nature fans get really excited by the sight of a boardwalk?) a Nature Conservancy trail took me through the mangrove swamp and up about a thousand feet through several ecosystems, past loads of wildlife, scientific experiments and past well-signed endangered species of trees.  It was wonderful and fascinating.  I dragged my friend back the next day to prove it was real.  It was. 

 

Finding the trail is a bit of a challenge.  Take the road, (the only road!) to Magan’s Bay.  Pay the four bucks to get in.  Proceed past the toll booth and turn immediately left.  Follow the road over the bridge, (trust me), and hug the left side of the tree line.  Keep hugging and it will bring you around in a big, almost half circle into the palm woods to the entrance to the trail.  It was a heck of a hike and took about two hours.  It empties out onto a road up near the top of this steep, volcanic island which, if you turn left will bring you back to the road leading to Magan’s Bay, full circle.  On your way back in the evening stop at Magan’s Point Resort and feast at the Shinsen Sushi Bar, one of the three best sushi dinners I’ve ever had.  Taxis and regular folk are everywhere eager to give you a lift.

 

 

I did finally find a lovely garden…  Great House overlooks Hull Bay and Magan’s Bay and twenty other islands including all the U.S.V.I. and the British V.I and Puerto Rico.  The garden is small but very well kept and designed.  Bananas, ginger, palms and a lovely waterfall through the whole garden were highlighted by tropical water lilies and the stunning views.  The house itself was worth the taxi ride; stunningly decorated with antiques and rich colours.  It wasn’t hard to imagine sitting and having rum punch brought to enjoy in the sun.  I had to laugh, standing on the upper boardwalk getting my picture tooked overhearing a British couple going through the same ritual and hubbie says to wife, “try to smile dear, you’re in paradise.”  True.  Arthur Fairchild thought so when he moved there and when he left a large chunk of the island to the people of St. Thomas to be preserved in its natural state and enjoyed.  (Good people have existed through time.)  Now go!

 

 

 

The Value of Knowledge
Mood:  chatty

On the Value of Knowledge

 

Several years ago, my Uncle Bill told me a story about buying tires.  He went to an expert and asked what the best tire was.  The tire man suggested a brand which was new to my uncle.  “Are those really the best?  I’ve never heard of them!”

 

The tire man replied, “You sell steel, right?  If I have questions about steel, I ask you because you’re an expert in steel and you expect me to listen to your advice.  You ask me about tires….” 

 

This is a lesson I’ve carried with me ever since.  I’m forever amazed by people who try to go cheap, building for the short term – ignoring the fact that they or somebody else will have to pay to have it redone sooner rather than later

 

I was visiting my friend Stephen at Rona to get his help designing and pricing a deck.  The value of the visit was not the fancy design program but rather the bits of information Stephen gave me about pressure treated vs. cedar vs. Trex^™ synthetic decking.  (Cedar doesn’t last like it used to and if you want to avoid staining year after year, Trex^™ is the way to go.  However, you’re wise to spend a bit more for the special screws and hanging systems.  See, I learn.  Furthermore, with a deck as long as the one we were designing, it was essential that the footings be fully four feet deep.  If we went too shallow and the deck heaved in severe winters, it would damage the foundation of the house, to which it would be attached.) 

 

Good information is invaluable.  Sometimes you have to pay for it and sometimes it’s free.  If you have to pay for it, do so.  It’ll save you money in the long, and possibly, the short run. 

 

Whether you’re having a landscape installed or doing it yourself, find out how to do it right.  If you don’t have a deep enough base on the interlock; if you don’t install edging restraint to hold it all together; if you don’t use polymeric sand… you’ll end up with a job you’re not happy with – in as little as two years.  (Personally, I think even if you’re moving soon it should be done right.  I like the idea that I’ll leave a mark that lasts.)

 

In Milton, many homeowners are challenged with clay.  Find someone who knows the substantial list of plants which tolerate, or even prefer, clay.  Same story if you have deep or dry shade. 

 

Another interesting line I once heard is, “something given away is worth nothing”.  Sometimes a consultant or designer is worth the money.  You have to identify with designers, finding someone that will design what YOU want…someone you’ll get along with.

 

How do you find these experts?  Talk to your friends and co-workers and even neighbours and ask them who they’re impressed with.  Visit the Landscape Ontario website and find local landscapers.  As always, think about joining the local horticultural society.  Great speakers appear monthly.  You can learn about a variety of topics from them and you’ll be able to network with lots of gardeners.   Even professional landscapers benefit from hiring consultants now and then.  One of the great and exciting things about the landscaping business is that there’s always more to learn.

 

www.landscapeontario.com

www.fernridgelandscaping.com

 

 

E-mail me idea what you would like to hear about also questions that I can write about – sdjames@on.aibn.com

Going Greener
Mood:  sharp
Topic: Environmental

 

With gas prices rising and weather getting more wacky, folk continue to think more and more about how to be more enviro-friendly.  Some things are easy and some take a bit of thought or money.  Other things just take a bit of a change in perception.

 

For instance, the easiest way to cut back on the water used in the landscape is simply to have less grass.  The right groundcovers can be more xeriphytic, (drought tolerant), than turf.  In the sun, Sedum – the stonecrops -  are great as are a mix of grassland plants such as switchgrass and purple coneflower.  (I hate to say this but the low junipers such as ‘Blue Rug’ are also good.  grumble grumble…lousy junipers!)  In the shade, bigroot geranium, (Geranium macrorrhizum), is perfect.  If you don’t live near a natural area, (since it’s a bit invasive), yellow archangel, (Lamiastrum galeobdolum ‘Variegatum’) will fill an area quickly and choke out the weeds well.  Both are beautiful.

 

Unfortunately, the perception is that grass is lower maintenance.  Untrue.  Grass is perceived as easier because it takes less thought to maintain and it never gets behind.  It can’t get behind since it SCREAMS to be maintained if you’re late.  If you don’t cut it, it gets long and ugly right away.  If you don’t notice, the neighbours get ugly.  If you spent a bit of time the first year weeding a groundcover bed, it would take less time to maintain than grass per square foot.  An inch or two of mulch will make your life easier for both weeding and watering as well.

 

Less turf also means less mowing and less fertilizing.  Mowing spews an incredible amount of pollution into the air and fertilizers don’t do the world much good either.  One hour of mowing releases the same amount of pollution as eight cars traveling at 55mph for the same amount of time.

 

Creating a rain water garden is another way to make the world a better place.  Since 90% of Canadian’s drinking water comes from groundwater, it’s important to allow as much water as possible to infiltrate back into the Earth.  This also helps with ‘base flow’ – the water in the soil which keeps streams flowing when it hasn’t rained for a while.  A rainwater garden is a shallow depression which the downspouts drain into.  The upside is that you can grow some plants in the rainwater garden which would usually require regular irrigation such as Astilbe or primroses or even Ligularia.  Rainwater gardens are just neat!

 

While you’re at it, pop down to Lee Valley and pick up the goods to start harvesting rainwater for irrigation. 

 

These two actions will also help take stress off the sewer system – (ok - ‘storm water system’ to be specific), and also reduce the ‘heat island effect’ by cooling the air through evaporation and transpiration. 

 

If you’re building something new, look into green roof systems.  A green roof lasts decades longer and is great for the environment and looks fascinating.

 

Incidentally, I do put my money where my mouth is.  I just bought a Smartcar, (soon it’ll be the one with ‘Fern Ridge’ stamped all over it), and I’m in the process of running my downspouts into my front pond and my back rainwater garden.

Invasives
Mood:  energetic
Topic: Environmental

Next month we'll deal with something shiny-happy like nifty new plants to buy. This time we're going to look at aliens!

 

They're invading and they're out to take over.  While there are books that could be filled with problem plants, we'll just deal with a few of the worst threats.

 

Common Buckthorn, Rhamnus cathartica, is wreaking havoc because, while somewhat ornamental, it spreads quickly through, (and I DO mean THROUGH!), birds.  Like many invasive plants, Buckthorn, (pictured below including the ‘thorn’), is a problem only because it grows at the expense of our native plants, taking over entire ecosystems.  Being a woody plant makes it very difficult to control.  The best way may be to cut it down and spray Roundup on the fresh cut.  Then keep an eye to see if it grows back since it may need another careful application.  Before you go stampeding into the yard to kill things, look at more pictures of this large shrub, (or small tree) on line at http://pick4.pick.uga.edu/mp/20q?search=Rhamnus+cathartica where you can note the leaf shape and texture.

 

Some of the first ways to recognize this Buckthorn are shiny, dark bark with horizontal raised spots.  If you look where two twigs come together, you'll often see a small thorn.  Also, the pointed, dark buds 'hug' slightly, (appressed), around the stem and the roundish leaves are a dark, shiny green with deep veins.

 

Be cautious when thinking about controlling these plants.  Mistakes can be made and we don't want to accidentally kill any desirable plants!

 

Garlic Mustard, Alliaria petiolata, (pictured below including the seedlings to watch for) is another weed trying to take over.  I hear the best way would be to wait until its almost finished setting seed and cut it down to the ground.  Put the waste out for the trash man - not in your compost.  The seed remains viable for years!  More images can be seen at http://www.ipaw.org/invaders/garlic_mustard/gm.htm and you can click on the pics to get great blown up versions.

Making a Point
Mood:  bright

Let’s deal with a prickly subject - propagating cacti.  Cacti offer an incredible variety of forms and textures so different from most plants.  They also intrigue new and potential plant lovers to basic levels of horticulture.  Cacti, and many succulents, have spines.  Cacti, in subtle contrast, have cushions (areoles) of tiny hairs (glochids) around the spines, sometimes only visible as a white slightly fuzzy spot at the base of the spines.  In other cases, the glochids are the only visible marks on the pads –fuzzy spots of white or cinnamon.  (Pads are modified stems - the most visible parts of the cactus.  Spines are actually modified leaves.)

 

Many plants can be mistaken for cacti such as the Aloes, Euphorbias and Hawarthias.  Generally, propagation of these couldn't be easier.  Take a cutting, including some stem and stick it in the dirt.

 

Cacti can be propagated cutting in two ways.  The first method is the most sure, except for learning to use chopsticks.  Get four fairly straight sticks, plus two to hold the specimen.  Use two sticks, (or a pair of channel lock pliers very gently wielded), to hold the segment to be propagated.  Where the two segments meet, (the pinched area), cut them apart with a secateurs or scissors.  Set this cutting on a high windowsill for two weeks to dry. 

 

Fill a pot with well draining ‘cactus soil’.  Make a shallow dent in the soil.  Use the chopsticks to pick up the cactus segment and place it, base down, in the dent.  Use another stick to lightly firm soil around the base of the cutting and then, while holding the segment firmly, place four sticks as supports to hold it upright.

 

Next step - ignore!  Do nothing for at least a month, or possibly even until the segment begins to shrivel a bit.  Now you can start minimal watering, letting the soil dry, fully between waterings.  After six months, carefully remove the sticks.  You're done.  Cacti can go for long stretches without water but are very susceptible to over-watering and must never be allowed to sit in water.

 

The second method of cactus propagation is drastic and should be considered only if the base of the cactus is diseased or rotten or if you desperately want more of that particular specimen.  Barrel Cactus or Bishop's Cap are examples to propagate this way.  Leave the plant in the pot, lie on its side on a cutting board, holding the pot and use a butcher knife to cut off the top three inches of the plant.  (If the base was rotten, make the cut well above the rot.)  Keep the original in its pot, and put it back on the windowsill.  It will often produce offsets, (baby cacti) around the top edge, which are easily propagated later.  As before, set the cutting on its side on a high windowsill, out of reach of pets and children.  After four to six weeks, you may see tiny fleshy roots forming in the centre ring on the base of the cactus.  Repeat all the steps in the first propagation method to pot it up.

 

I think, on reflection, that the oddity of cacti makes me feel normal, by comparison.  That's me!  Perfectly normal… compared to the extremely odd.  Everybody needs that.  Don't you think?  Smile, and keep those tweezers handy.

 

 

The Eternal Battle
Mood:  a-ok
From the October edition of The Halton Compass

No!  Not husbands versus pruning!  We're talking squirrels eating all your newly planted bulbs!  There are three main ways of deterring those black or grey b@$%&*ds from digging up and eating all your lovely spring flowering bulbs; physical deterrents, sensory deterrents and edibility deterrents.

The physical deterrents are simple.  For tulips and other large bulbs, plant them deeply at about ten to twelve inches.  It takes a really tenacious squirrel to dig that deeply.  Avoid using those bulb planters.  I find they don't get the bulb deep enough anyway so it doesn't stay as perennial as it should.  Generally, dig a hole two feet across and ten inches deep with straight sides and place the bulbs in the hole with the pointy tip up then fill in the hole, compacting lightly with your foot as you go.  That'll slow them down!  Some folks use wire mesh called hardware cloth about two inches below the soil to stop digging as well.  Others swear by sharp gravel in a layer two inches below the surface.  Others still just swear.  After all that hard work, the bulbs will bloom reliably in the spring and forever more...and the deer will eat them.  (We'll deal with that next spring.)

The sensory deterrents are things that smell or taste bad.  Most of them seem to be biologically based.  Believe it or not, we can buy coyote urine.  Sprayed on the soil it repels most herbivores since they identify it with a predator.  Cayenne pepper deters squirrels as do blood and bone meal.  Some folks use mothballs but I'd rather have squirrels eat my bulbs than have my garden smell like mothballs.

Edibility deterrents include all the bulbs that are poisonous or just unpleasant for critters to eat.  Interestingly, they really don't like ornamental onions, Allium sp. even though we love to eat them.  Several wonderful bulbs are Scilla, Grape Hyacinth, Anemone and of course the daffodil group or Narcissus.  All of these are less attractive to squirrels although they have been known to...relocate bulbs.  They dig them, move them and re-plant them.  (Oh if only I could get my crew to work that hard and fast...and for that low a pay rate too!)  Scilla is a lovely, very early, true blue flowered bulb that naturalizes well.  

Naturalizing is the process of letting bulbs grow wild into grass and gardens.  Some folks love it and others less so since it requires you to leave mowing the turf grass until the bulb foliage has started to die back.  

Grape Hyacinth is nice in the spring but it puts up grassy leaves in the fall that not everyone is enamored of.  When planting Anemone corms, (technically they're not a true bulb but lets not get too picky,) soak them overnight before planting.  The daffs are always a hit and I like the dwarf varieties that have not been so overbred by humans - the species Narcissus.  Small bulbs, also known as ‘minor bulbs' should be planted only four inches deep which is nice since no one wants extra digging.

The sooner you get bulbs into the ground, the better the show you'll have next year since that gives them time to establish.  Think about planting them under perennials which come up late in the spring such as ornamental grasses and fall Anemones.  It seems like a long way away but when spring comes you'll be grateful for the burst of colour that bulbs bring to your garden.

Gardens 'Round the World
Mood:  a-ok
From the September edition of The North Halton Compass

In the spirit of learning how to relax I recently took a spontaneous trip to Prague, Munich and Salzburg.  I decided to indulge all my hobbies; photography, food, art/architecture, birding and gardens...and more food.  Wherever I travel there are plantsy things to visit.

Looking for somewhere to go this fall?  Prague is the most beautiful city I've ever seen.  I visited the lovely Pet�™ín Park where, even though it's in the centre of town I saw several new and interesting birds and the view of Prague Castle and the buildings downtown was overwhelming.  GO.

In Munich, the botanical gardens was one of the most intriguing I've ever seen - not huge but different, including fascinating bog gardens from around the world - loads of carnivorous plants and amazing adaptations.  They also had a display of aquariums which, of course, had their share of fish but also water plants from different regions - great idea and as a collector and plantsman, one which I thought had great worth.  Botanical gardens serve not only to educate but to preserve, just as zoos do.

The gardens themselves were brilliant, whether you wanted the colours of the annuals or the plant collections from around the world or even the cooking gardens.  Conveniently, Munich Botanical Gardens is very near Nymphenburg Palace.

In the centre of the city, stroll through the Englisher Garten - the King's game preserve given to the people, made into a natural-style forest - good place to relax, bird and sample the local suds in one of three lovely beer gardens.  This is a different kind of garden, lacking the bright colours but showing how natural and beautiful landscaping can be.
 
If you're not going to travel until the snow flies, most tropical islands have an amazing garden or two and there are many in the Deep South worth visiting.  Each has something that makes it stand out.  Two of my favorites are Andromeda Gardens in Barbados and the Atlanta Botanical Gardens. 

Andromeda Gardens, founded by Iris Banocchie was a private garden and deeded to the public for us to enjoy.  Not only is the basic layout beautiful but there are several rare plants including the red-stemmed Sealing Wax Palm, many orchids and some great lessons texture.  (Not long ago I picked up a book of ‘1001 Gardens to See Before You Die'.  I'm not working my way through it methodically or anything but it was interesting to see which gardens I've visited which are in the book!)  Everywhere you go on the island, plants seem to be valued.  From the most opulent home to the tiniest shack, folks have done their best to brighten the world.

The Atlantic Botanical Garden had a man-made wetland and a woodland garden.  It was neat to see the size plants can reach.  Most plants they grow are also on our palette - surprising.  The most amazing thing about Atlanta Botanical Gardens was how they draw people in to make the garden more viable.  Our Royal Botanical Gardens could take a lesson.  (Canadians seem to aim for such purity of purpose.  In some ways, I think it hurts us.)  ABG had business conventions, classical music concerts, world renowned guest artists, (i.e. Dave Chihuly), creating custom installations for the park and more.  These served to make the garden interesting and expose it to new patrons.

No matter what your interests are, each of these places gives you something to admire and enjoy.  As always, these few words only scratch the surface.
 

Chiro Gardening
Mood:  accident prone
From the July edition of The Halton Compass

Several years ago I was at a cottage gardening symposium.  I was more than a little concerned by all the wheelchairs and canes being used to get on stage by the speakers and one speaker had a stand-in because his back was too bad.  (The stand in was also using a cane.)  These were not OLD people.  They just hadn’t looked after themselves.

What is it in human nature that makes us try to lift things we can’t?  Why don’t we ask for help lifting big or awkward things?  Why do we lift badly?  Is it the same nature that allows us to excel and invent and reach the moon?  Bad sides and good sides?

I’m trying to discipline myself to ask for help and follow advice of care givers so I thought I’d share that advice with you.  Group therapy.  I get rescued from my own ambition by Dr. Dan Chajka at the Health Centre of Milton.  He agrees that, “Gardening and yard work can involve strenuous tasks and be physically challenging at times.  It is important not to take this lightly,” (I’m not sure if that’s a pun or not), “to treat gardening like an athlete treats their sport, by having a routine and taking care of their body.”

Now I’m a bad patient but the truth is that a few steps would make life a lot easier.  “Warming up before gardening tasks, by walking around the garden a few times. This brings warm blood to the muscles, to prepare them for work”, advises Dr. Dan.  Everything else aside, this is just a nice way to start gardening and it give you time to see what needs to be done – to prioritize.

To “prevent stiffness and maintain or improve range of motion for the joints,” the doc suggests, “Stretching before, during and after the task.”  If weeding isn’t your favorite thing, think of this as a prescription to procrastinate!  Dr. Dan’s also taught me some great stretches to help alleviate some of my old problems, with hips, shoulders and more.  They help so much I even DO them.  (I’m usually rushing too much to take care of myself.  I’d hate to be my doctor!)

“Drink enough water and keep well hydrated.  Sports drinks help replenish water and electrolytes, lost through sweating.”

Finally, Dr. Chajka always urges me, (and you), to “Ice any strains or injuries that you have sustained, using the 10min on, 10min off, 10min on, method.  Being careful not to freeze the skin.”  That sounded to me less pleasant than a heating pad but it really does work.

“If there is concern that a new, old or reoccurring injury may need to have some attention, then trust your instincts and seek a registered or regulated healthcare professional.  A consultation with that healthcare professional will help answer your questions.”

If you like gardening as much as I do, you may think this takes away from valuable gardening time.  Look at it the other way ‘round.  You don’t want to end up like all those cottage gardeners, unable to do that which they love the most.  Take the time.  Wander, stretch, enjoy a glass of water to cool off while you work and use ice to help get back on track.  (A bit of that ice goes great in a scotch after gardening too! – advice from me, not the doc…)  Have fun and garden safely.

P.S. If you’re looking for Dr. Dan Chajka, he can be reached at 905-878-8131 at the Health Centre of Milton on Main Street.