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The Wild West Coast

1st trip: May 27-june 5

2nd trip: July 12-19

first a map...so you have some idea where it is...and where I live In Dunedin

My field research for my thesis led me to the West Coast of the South Island. I drove from Dunedin up to Wanaka and Haast, over to the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers, up to Greymouth. I did 72 interviews at Shantytown, a 1890's historical village, and at Ross Goldfields, further down the coast.

The west coast is so different from the east. The west is rough and wild, while the east is calm and smooth. The west caost is mile after mile of lush forests, with steam rising from the ground, and mountains that drop off right at the edge of the ocean.

Coming back, I drove through the Arthurs Pass to Christchurch and then down to Dunedin. The return trip was a mere 8 hours, whereas the trip going was 12+ hours. Thats a long drive, let me tell you.... The Arthurs Pass was incredible, rocky mountains and valleys, I could have believed I was in Jasper. the mountains even had snow on the tops!

Yes, it is cold here too...even on the beach

The Franz Josef Glacier....

This was so silly to me I had to take a picture...a goat tied to the side of the road with his little house...

The West Coast: The Sequel....

In July I returned to the west coast to do my second round of research...nothing liek the smell of coal and the green tinge in the air...I was actually really taken aback by how people had to live. I met many people who used fire stoves to heat their home, and a lot of them would go home during the day to add more wood or coal so the fire didn't go out...can you imgane...in 2003??? A lot of the houses were old and falling apart...very depressing and sad. I have to admit I couldn't wait to go back to Dundin, which suddenly seemed like a big, modern city in comparison! but it was amazing how far back the history goes..these towns are from the 1800's...the weather amazingly held out until my last day, when I had to cut my trip short a day as snow was forecast. Let me tell you, when it snows in New Zealand, they CLOSE all the roads for a few days! so I was driving through Arthurs Pass when it started snowing...and it was the scariest 2cm of snow I have ever seen! and I'm from Alberta! the roads were frosty and there was hardly any guard rails, and rememerb, the roads are narrow and single, undivided here. Think the Coquahala (sp?) in BC, but with summer tires and driving on the wrong ide...thankfully half way through they had the graters out, and they were "gritting" the road with gravel and it was all good. I almspot got to use my snow chains! when I rented the car they showed me how to put them on and I had to sign a waiver saying I knew the risk of being on the road after 10pm when it would be icy.

but it all ended well although my 1 hour drive through the pass ended up being more than 3 hours...but I did get to enjoy a very "new zealand" expereince on my way out. I was on a major highway, clear blue sky with the snowy moutains in the background, when...ahead of me on the highway was allthese sheep! covered the whole road and I had to stop and let them pass. one sheep dog in the front, one in the back and the farmer following in a truck! how cool is that? so new zealand. anyways, here are some more pictures...

This is an avalanche cover they had on Arthur's Pass...I had to drive here!

Toboganning...kiwi style! look at the small amount of snow and yet they still ski and tobogann...

My rental car and some snowy mountains, on the pass

The famous Punakaiki Rocks, just outside Greymouth on the west coast...can you see the road on the left side...it was so windy and steep