Plastic Sports Armor Construction

Capt. Boris Movila, Last Updated 05/23/2012 08:49 PM

Introduction: This page is designed to provide guidance to fighters who want to build cheap, light weight, functional armor.  I have a passion for this because I have seen many who want to fight lose interest in the SCA because they believed it was beyond their means or because they were worried the armor would be to heavy for their physical condition.  My goal is to make sure that everyone who is physically capable and has the desire is provided the opportunity to enjoy heavy weapons combat the way I do.  I understand that many in the SCA cringe at the idea of plastic armor so at the bottom I offer up tips on how to cover up you sport armor.  I think its appearance does detract from the dream so please hide it.

Please Read the website its entirety before you begin drawing your pattern on the barrel. 

Table of Contents:
Supplies
Patterns
Fabrication
Other Armor Vendors
Covering Your Sports Armor
Links

 

Tools Needed

These are recommendations, you made find other tools work better for you. 

 

Materials Needed

Torch

Propane is okay but slow.

MAP Gas is fast but sometimes too hot so be careful.

Use a flame spreader if you can find one

High Density Polyethylene Barrel

Preferably a food grade barrel so that there are no chemical residue. 

Also try to get black, it passes for leather at 20 feet away. 

Nippers 550 Paracord

I recommend getting at least 100 feet.  Easily purchased online, hard to find in retail stores.

Try here

http://www.vtarmynavy.com/parachute_cord.htm

Or

http://www.countycomm.com/550cord.htm

 
Sturdy scissors   leather (get from Tandy Leather)  
Utility Knife or equivalent shape blade polyethylene, closed cell foam camp pad,

available at Meijer.

 
Jig saw w/ medium cutting blade Duct Tape, contractor grade works best I find  
Circular Saw Cord Locks: Optional

https://www.strapworks.com/

Heavy Leather Work Gloves   Medium Rapid Rivets (get from Tandy Leather)  
Water Bucket   Copper Rivets (get from Tandy Leather)  
Safety Glasses   Elastic Shoe laces (optional)  
Lighter

I prefer the ones with the jet of flame (windproof) as opposed standard type.

  Extra Wide Shoe Laces (optional)  
Band Saw (Optional)

(but really makes the small cuts a lot easier than using the jig saw.)

  Pan Head Machine bolt (Philip's head) size 10-24

Also matching washers and lock nuts

Drill with 13/64 bit    
Drill Press (Optional)

(but really makes drilling the dozens of holes go a lot faster.)

 

 

   
Ball-Peen Hammer      
Metal cutting tool, either a dremel, angle grinder, or hack saw      

Fabrication Notes

Plastic

For every piece of plastic you cut out you will need to scrap the edges with a knife to remove any extra plastic shavings before you heat treat them. 

Use the nippers or band saw to clip any corners about 1/4" to make them more rounded, this will reduce armor bites. 

Then you will use the torch (USE HEAVY LEATHER GLOVES AND HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY) to heat up the edges and melt them ever so slightly, moving at about 1 inch every 2 seconds is a good pace. 

Always douse the parts you have heat treated or formed with the torch in cold water. This sets the shape and makes them more rigid.

When heating to shape a piece consider thermodynamics.  The side of the piece you are heating will expand and almost curve for you.  Bend the pieces farther than you want them to go, they will relax about 25 to 50% back to their original shape even after being dunked in water.  If they don't relax as desired you can always reheat and try again. 

550 Paracord

Always melt the ends with a lighter every time you cut it, be sure that the inner core melts to the outer sheath.  This will ensure that your cording won't fray. 

Advice on making plastic armor.

 

Patterns
 

Steel and Leather Patterns that are adaptable to plastic. 

(Keep in mind that any patterns that require welding or deep dishing will be difficult to make with plastic.  Also plastic helmets are not legal in the SCA so don't bother trying.)  

http://www.armourarchive.org/patterns/

http://www.arador.com/construction/index.html

http://www.cs.usu.edu/~watson/bartholomew/index.html

http://www.modaruniversity.org/Armour.htm

http://www.gwynfor.org/G/article/Armour/patterns.htm

http://www.yamakaminari.com/
(Click the Armor button on the left)

http://rhinohide.cx/katchuu/30shin/img/

http://www.forth-armoury.com/photo_gallery/COP/cop_refs.htm

http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/katchu.html

http://www.brighthelm.org/articles/armour  

 

 

Articulated Breast Plate with tassets and pauldrons.

Designed for maneuverability and flexibility. 

Part measurements for an average sized male (5' 8", 195 lbs, 42 in chest, 36 in waist)

Breast Plate Parts:

Sizing: Add .5" horizontally to each part to adjust for Men's XL, 1" for Men's XXL, Subtract .5" for Men's Medium, etc)  Adjust for height as well if you are considerably taller or shorter than me. 

 

IMAGE 1

IMAGE 2

Chest plate: 8" x 13"; (measurement from nipple to nipple) X (3 in above nipples to 2 in above belly button); females should measure using fabric tape accounting for curves) Drill 8 holes about 1" apart on each side starting from the bottom, and 2 at top center and 4 bottom center.

PLATE 1: (Make 2)  3.5" x 12" drill 8 equidistant holes on the side next to the chest plate and 6 holes on the other to line up with plate 2, drill 2 holes near the top.  cut to match the photo below so that the top slopes toward plate 3.

PLATE 2: (Make 2)  3.5" x 9.5", drill 6 holes on either side, cut top to slate towards PLATE 3 as in Image 1 and Image 2

PLATE 3: Adjustment Plate: (Make 2)  4" x  8" drill 4 columns of equidistant holes and two holes at the very bottom.  The 2 sets of holes allow you to adjust the girth of the breastplate. 

PLATE 4: (Make 2)  3.5" x  8", drill 6 holes on either side, cut top to slate towards PLATE 5 as in Image 1 and Image 2

PLATE 5: (Make 2) 3.5" x  9", drill 6 holes on either side, cut top to slate towards the Back Plate as in Image 1 and Image 2

PLATE 6: Cut a 4" x  8" rectangle, then trim to a trapezoid as depicted in the image below.  Drill 2 holes on the right and left upper corners, 4 along the bottom, and a column of 4 sets of 2 down the center. 

Back plate: 7" X 12" (chest plate height minus 1 in) X (chest plate width minus 1 in), drill 6 holes about 1 inch apart starting at the bottom up each side.  Drill 4 holes about .75 apart centered at the top and bottom. 

PLATE 7: (Make 2) Cut a rectangle 4" x 8" then trim into crescent shape as depicted in the image below.  Drill 2 holes at bottom center, left and right ends.

PLATE 8: Tasset: (Make 2)  4" x 8" drill 2 holes at top center, cut the bottom edge with a gentle curve as show in the Image 1 and Image 2.    (You can make more of these plates and and them to the bottom for more protection. 

PLATES 9, 10, & 11: Draw a 9" x 12" rectangle, then draw lines dividing it horizontally every four inches, then draw diagonal lines from the top corners to 2.75" in from the bottom corner.  See the images below for reference and for drilling holes. 

PLATE 12: (Measure Width Horizontally across butt) x 4" tall, drill 4 holes near top center, 6 equidistant along bottom. 

PLATE 13: Same as 12, drill 6 holes equidistant along top (can make more of these to cover further down butt as needed)

 

Breastplate Shaping:

On plates 1 to 5, the chest plate, and back plate once you have smoothed the edges of each piece with the torch you will want to heat the bottom inch and either using a bench vice or push them against the floor until the bottom 3/4" curves a 30 to 45 degree angle away from the body.  This will make the breastplate more forgiving and reduce armor bites as you lean over and bend around while fighting. 

Plates 12 and 13 should be flattened or curled to match your posteriors shape. 

 

Breastplate Assembly:

Overlap the plates as you lace them together as shown in the image above. 

Lace together the chest plate to plate 1 using a single piece of paracord vertically.

Lace together Plates 1 and 2 using either paracord or highly recommend shoe lace or even better elastic shoe lace.  Use the diagram below to and leave plenty of extra.  This is the expansion section that will allow you to slide the armor on and off over your head.  Tie a knot in the end of each string once installed to prevent them from coming loose.  You will tie a bow with the extra to cinch the armor tight around you when donning. 

             

Lace together the rest of the plates with a single piece of paracord for each vertical section until you have the entire wrap section. 

Then attach the butt plates and groin plates to the front and back of the breastplate using a similar method horizontally. 

Lace plates 8 to plate 3 at the bottom.  Lace plates 7 to the top of the chest plate and plate 6. 

Cut two 10" x 2" strips of leather and punch two holes at either end and lace them to the side holes on each plate 7.  This is basically a shoulder strap to mount the pauldrons to. 

Use some each wide show laces or paracord and run two lines from plate 6 to the top holes in plates 1.  This will be the vertical adjustment strap.  Leave lots of extra cord, tie knots in the very ends of each strand, you will tie a bow in this to set the height of the breastplate. 

Pad the interior of the chest, back, and plates 8, 12, & 13 with closed cell foam at a minimum.  Use duct tape folded over to attach the foam.  You can do more but this is the minimum to make the armor more comfortable when taking blows. 

 

Pauldron Parts:

 

Plate 1: (Make 1 for each arm) 3" x 10", drill 2 holes at the center closest to the body.  Drill 4 holes at the center about 1/2" to 3/4" in from the outside edge.  See the photo above.

Plate 2: (Make 1 for each arm) 3 1/2" x  7", drill 4 holes on one side, 6 holes on the other.

Plate 3: (Make 1 for each arm) 3 1/2" x  7", drill 6 holes on each side.

Plate 4: (Make 1 for each arm) 3 1/2" x  7", drill 6 holes on one side, and 2 at the corners on the other. 

Pauldron Shaping:

After the edge smoothing heat each piece in the on the outside of the natural curve and bend until the curve matches the size of your arm.  For you bigger fighters this step might be unnecessary. 

Pauldron Assembly:

Lace the pieces as shown in the image above.  Leave quite a bit of slack in the lacing, you want each piece to float around so your arm has good freedom of movement. 

Pad plate 1 with foam at a minimum.  Don't try to use one piece for the whole pauldron it will reduce flexibility at bind up when you don't want it to. 

Use a 24" inch piece of paracord and run it from the back hole on plate 4 to the front hole, letting the excess hang of the front, tie a knot in the end after putting a cord lock on it.  You will use the cord lock to cinch the pauldron down to your arm. 

To install the pauldrons on the breastplate first put the breastplate on and mark the exact top of your shoulder on the leather shoulder strap.  Punch 2 holes in the leather and then lace the pauldrons to those 2 holes. 

Thighs

 

Instructions: Print all sections below and tape together and cut out 2 top plates, 4 middle plates, and 2 bottom plates.  Depending on your height you might need to add or subtract a middle plate. 

Drill holes at the red dots.

Heat and curve the plates to match the curvature of your leg and so they

Lace all plates together horizontally using paracord, leave a little movement in them so they don't bind you up as you fight.  Make sure the middle plate is laced underneath the top plate.  This will ensure the plates don't catch downward aimed blows. 

The single pair of holes on the top plate is used to hang the whole assembly from a belt.  Adjust the height so the plate covers down to your knee armor or even just overlaps. 

The singular holes on either side of the bottom plate are to run the strap.  Use paracord maybe 24 in long, knot it inside and out on the hole relative to the rear of you leg.  To wear just run the excess cord through the front hole and tie a knot. 

 

Top Plate Middle Plate(s) Bottom Plate

Greaves

  

Instructions: Print all 4 sections and then cut them out and tape them together to get the complete pattern. If you are taller or shorter than me you may have to adjust the size. Trace this vertically on the barrel to work with the curve. Once the plastic is cut out heat treat the edges to smooth them. Drill holes at the top of each side of the notches cut out. Then apply heat to the outside of the knee cop just below the notches. With leather gloves bend the wings in and fasten with 1 1/2 in 10-24 pan head machine bolt and lock nut.  Ensure that the middle tab is on the outside. Use washers.  Ensure that the locknut and excess bolt are on the outside. 

Cut off the excess bolt leaving about 1/8 above the lock nut. 

Peen over the remaining bolt using a ball-peen hammer.

Once the plastic is formed cut two 4 in wide strips of leather the same length as the straight section of the greave. Punch 4 equidistant holes in both sides, rivet to the plastic as shown on the left. Then use paracord to lace the back like a shoe. The pad to comfort. I use volleyball knee pads and have two layers of 3/8 in foam at the bottom to keep them from scrapping the top of my foot.

When fitting them to your body remember that your knee cap fits at the base of the cut out notches.

Full pattern Section 1 Section 2

                                           Section 3 Section 4 

 

These work best when worn with leg wraps. 

Arms

For quick and easy vambraces and elbow cops follow these instructions.   Pattern copied from the Armor Archive here:  http://www.armourarchive.org/patterns/elbow_mandrake/

Start by cutting the ELBOW pattern below. 

Drill holes at red dots. 

Heat treat edges and then heat the outside of the cop. 

Bend two sides of the triangular cutout together and fasten with 1 1/2 in 10-24 pan head machine bolt and lock nut.  Use washers.  Ensure that the locknut and excess bolt are on the outside. 

Cut off the excess bolt leaving about 1/8 above the lock nut. 

Peen over the remaining bolt using a ball-peen hammer.

Heat the outside of both wings until the plastic is glossy.  Form until the wings are parallel. 

Use the strapping or string of your choice between the two holes on the sides. 

 

Size: Small

Size: Large

This pattern is in two pieces because it is bigger than standard printer paper. 

Print both pieces and tap together and cut out. 

     

VAMBRACE

Patterns copied from here: http://www.armourarchive.org/patterns/arms_15thC_sinric/

Cut out the two pieces below and drill the holes marked in red.  The small piece with the crescent cutout goes on top of your arm. 

                      

Butt the sides together but do not overlap.  Lace together the side facing away from your body as a hinge.  The inner side lace loosely to be tightened when you put on your armor or with elastic cord. 

To fit the elbow and vambrace together, cut a 1 1/2 in square of leather, punch 4 holes in it and lay it inside the elbow cop and lace together with the vambrace bottom piece with the corresponding holes.  The leather piece is to act like a hinge and more stable than paracord.  Photo coming soon. 

 

Half Gauntlets

These can be tricky but it is possible.  The plastic on the back of the hand tends to impede the motion of the sword by contacting the basket hilt.  I recommend making that section from very heavy leather

Gorget

Simple Pattern Coming Soon.

Or this one sort of works in plastic:

http://www.armourarchive.org/patterns/gorget_ab/

 

Covering Your Sports Armor

Below are a couple pictures of me in my kit.

 

Decorative Lacing and the proper accessories can be just as effective as covering it.

Covering you armor links

Guide to Disguising you Modern Armor

 

Vendors

Black Tower Enterprises

 

Plastic Armory Links

http://www.plasticlamellar.com/

Dark Victory Armory

Pitbull Armory