I ship Sea Doo parts to most countries so try here first for your parts needs!
WANTED
Parts Inventories
from overstocked or closing Sea Doo shops. If you have parts or know of a Sea Doo dealer in your area that is closing, e-mail me with the details.

Also WANTED
Blown or wrecked Sea Doo watercraft in the Ohio vicinity. If you have one, e-mail me with description and price.

Featured Items

Complete Dual Carb Kits
Aftermarket MPEMs
Jet Pump Service
Anti-Rattle Kit For Older Doos
LCD Repair Kit
Stop/VTS Buttons Kit
Sea Doo Tool Rentals
Nice 1992 SP Hull
Fuel Float Kit

Links

Wear Ring Removal

Sea Doo Model Reference

1995 & UP VTS Info
Fuel Economy Chart
029/358 VTS Module Test
Choke Cable Info Chart
Coil Ref Chart
Crankshaft Exploded Views
Driveshaft ID Chart
Boat Engine Ref Chart
PWC Engine Ref Chart
Fuel Baffle Chart
Gauge Information
Impeller Info Chart
Kit Info Chart
Mikuni Test Info
MPEM Ref & Prog.
MPEM Test Info
My Opinion on Oil…
Sea Doo Paint Codes
Rotax Case ID
Rotax Engine Info
Seat Reference Chart
SD Spark Plug Info
Water Flooded 2 Stroke
Winterization
Purchasing Info

Used Parts

Technical Info

My Roatan / Guanaja Page!

www.JetBoating.net

A site that has free
Jetboat manuals
and other related
info found here!

Sea Doo Tips

To avoid expensive
electrical system damage
NEVER jump
start your ski !!

Change your pump oil
every 50 hours and
you’ll save money in
the long run !

Save money and time
by doing repairs yourself
instead of using dealer !

Battery dying?
Disconnect your VTS
unit and see if that
fixes the problem.
If so, the vts module
may be the culprit!

New Components

Accessories & More
Drive/Pump
Gaskets
Hull/Body
Electrical
Engine
Fuel/Air Parts
Nuts Bolts Etc…
O-Rings
Misc. Parts

Used Components

If you are in need of a Sea Doo part and know the number, enter it (with no spaces, dashes) in the search below to see if I have in stock. If not in stock, I may be able to special order. If you don’t know the number, e-mail me your model, year and part(s) needed for availability. If not currently in stock, I may be able to order.

Search My Site

Search term:
Case sens. ? - yes
exact fuzzy
I offer NOS parts for Sea Doo watercraft and my prices are usually lower than you’ll find anywhere else! The part you receive will be in new condition unless noted in its’ description. Since I sell outdated inventory from dealers who no longer carry Sea Doo, the packaging may have dirt on it, may be damaged, opened or missing, but that doesn’t affect the part in any way.

If you need a part you don't see above, E-Mail me with the model, year, and part you need and I'll see what I can do for you.

The area above is always changing so check back often as links are added.

NOTE
I get many emails asking technical questions and since I’m only one person, really don’t have the time to answer every email. If you have a simple question, by all means email me and I’ll see if I can help. If it’s involved, try the PWCtoday.com Sea Doo board. The board is free to all and the members there are some of the most knowledgeable I’ve ever run across. At the top of the site you can even download almost any Sea Doo manual for free! When I get the time, I also put in my 0.02 there as well.
On one last note…I may sometimes come off as being “arrogant” or a “know it all” but I’ve been in and around Sea Doo watercraft since the early ‘90s so have strong opinions on things. I’ve been living and breathing nothing but Sea Doo watercraft for years and have way over 1000 hours riding them so when I state an opinion on things, it’s based on what I’ve learned over those many years. Plus I have a degree in Mechanical Engineering that taught me to write in a “matter of fact” way. Finally, if someone gives incorrect advice to a person with a problem, you better bet I’ll correct them!

Your Sea Doo Parts and Info Source!

I have compiled the information in this site to help the Sea Doo owner with repairs and maintenance as well as advice. If you are in need of a part or technical advice that isn't in this site, please e-mail me and I can try to help. My tech knowledge is mainly from experience with the pre 2000 models, but have reference materials available through 2007 if you need help with a newer model. I hope this site helps you save a little money and maybe even learn a thing or two!
Finally, note that lots of the things stated here are my opinions and only opinions but were gathered over many years in and around Sea Doo watercraft related industries as well as owning quite a few myself. In those years I’ve helped FREE OF CHARGE literally thousands of people with technical and maintenance issues so hope I can help you as well. Due to the number of emails I get, I sometimes can’t answer all but do try to! Also note that sometimes I’ll compile info I see posted on the various Sea Doo boards out there into a page and add it to my site if it looks like it will help out fellow Sea Doo owners. Sometimes that info may be flawed so don’t take it as gospel! If you have suggestions for additions to this site or see errors in it, let me know and I’ll see what I can do! Your comments on improving this site are also appreciated.


ABOUT THE SEA DOO FORUM…
A while back I was asked if I could help out at a new site that’s trying to help with Sea Doos. The PWCtoday.com Sea Doo Forum already helps pretty much any Sea Doo owner with anything they need free of charge but these geniuses somehow figure you need a site that you have to pay for to get answers or advice on your Sea Doo issues. These guys must have ran a dealership before so think this is a bright idea. Anyway, the site owners seemed to have good intentions but are not exactly brain surgeons. When members had problems I offered help or advice based on years of experience and several times, I received emails from the mods complaining about me helping out. Maybe it was because I didn’t pay extra to be a “premium member” or because the “techs” (I’ll use that term loosely) were offended that I knew something they didn’t. These boneheads that can’t tell a flush hose from an exhaust hose were giving people advice that was inaccurate or outright wrong so I corrected them. Instead of saying “sorry” I get an email saying “please don’t correct the mods even if they’re wrong. It makes them look bad”. Are you guys kidding me?! If you want to read all about what transpired, check out the emails I received and what finally led to me being banned from their site. It’s pretty entertaining! So if you want good technical advice try the link I posted above or check out the many free options. In the mean time, I would recommend you don’t waste your time or money with that site.

YOU HAVE A SEA DOO DI OR RFI? A NOTE ABOUT “LIMP MODE”…
The 787 RFI and 947 DI powered skis features what I consider a really dumb design which incorporates a "Limp Mode". From what I’ve seen from past experience, Limp Mode works kind of like the Cadillac Northstar design... that seemed like a good idea too. The Northstar was bragged to be able to run approx 50 miles with no coolant. Of course they didn't mention the engine was junk when it finally quit. As for your Sea Doo, that means if say a fuel injector malfunctions instead of the ski shutting down and saving you an expensive repair, the engine keeps running with one cylinder to get you back to shore. Of course by the time you're at the dock it has trashed the cylinder that was getting no fuel so you need a new motor! In this day of everyone wanting to keep everyone "safe", I can see how Sea Doo thinks sacrificing the machine to get you back to shore is acceptable. Not me and probably not you as well. If you ever experience a limp mode condition, shut it off immediately and get it towed. Trust me whatever the expense on the tow, it will be much less than the cost of a rebuild!

LOOKING AT A USED 947 DI POWERED SEA DOO?
If you found a used DI model in good running condition and is a really good buy, go for it! But if it has been modified or has mechanical problems run from it! Those machines are ok when in stock good running condition but it’s A FACT that modifying for more performance on any 2 stroke Sea Doo will shorten the life of the engine since they originally came from the factory with as much HP as could be offered and still keep reliability. Then the FACT that DI systems are really complicated and parts expensive ($600 fuel pump, various sensors that need a buds to diagnose, engine much more expensive to rebuild) will make you your dealers favorite customer! In my opinion for the minor fuel savings (130hp 951cc Carb - 14.5gph (at WOT)// 130hp 951DI - 12.4gph (at WOT)) and minimal performance advantages, that machine isn’t worth the long term big expenses for repairs WHEN it breaks. Stick with the easier to repair, easier to mod carb models and you’ll thank me later! Of course, that’s JUST MY OPINION so take it for what it’s worth!

IF YOU HAVE A 1996 OR NEWER SEA DOO WITH REVERSE…
There is a small part that wears out and needs replaced occasionally or you’ll end up with a broken reverse cable. Check out my newly added info page HERE to see if you may need yours fixed!

THINKING ABOUT A REBUILT CRANK OR SHORTBLOCK?
At this time, I have no recommendations for rebuilds since I’ve not heard of products offered by any company besides Sea Doo themselves that were worth recommending. That’s not to say there aren’t reputable rebuilders out there, just that I haven’t heard of any that meet/beat oem standards. A great warranty package isn’t nearly as important as the confidence that you know it likely won’t break any time soon. Personally, I would rather purchase a motor for a bit more with a limited warranty with the confidence knowing the components used in the rebuild are going to last and I’m not going to have to pull again for years!
If you decide to use one of the many rebuilders, look for oem or similar quality parts in the rebuilds. The main failure point now with most rebuilds is that Chinese bearings and inferior aftermarket pistons are commonly used to reduce costs. I have to say if the Chinese use the same metals in their weapons that they use in their tools and bearings, we'll never need to worry about them taking over the world! The result is an engine that needs rebuilt again very soon. The cost using oem parts will be a bit more, but the reliability will be worth it!

LOOKING FOR PARTS AND INFO FOR MODIFYING YOUR SEA DOO FOR MORE SPEED?
Since Sea Doos come from the factory with about as much power as they could offer and keep reliability, modifications almost always shorten the engines time before a rebuild is needed. Therefore, my philosophy is "if you want to go faster, buy a faster STOCK Sea Doo!". A modified 2 stroke won’t last long and is usually the cause of peoples complaints about them. Adding a high compression head and other engine mods will ultimately lead to a rebuild sooner than later. If you want your 2 stroke Sea Doo to go faster, buy a stock Sea Doo with a larger engine!
As far as the newer 2 stroke 787 RFI and 947 DI powered skis go, since they’re computer controlled and really touchy (not to mention expensive to rebuild), I wouldn’t recommend one of those if you ever want to add mods for performance. Stick with the carb models for the most flexibility on tuning and modifications.
As for the newest 4 stroke models, it’s worth noting that the same thing has happened in the PWC industry that happened in the Automotive. The EPA has mandated that new PWCs meet strict emissions standards, therefore the newest 4 stroke models end up being really complicated and expensive to repair if any of the numerous systems ever fail. The good news is that you don’t need to do a “smog test” like you do on new cars so it’s not a problem YET modifying them. For now note though that modifying a stock ski that’s still in warranty can void that warranty so be careful. It can really cost you in the long run!
As for modifying for speed, I think it’s irresponsible for shops to modify the new 4 strokes for as much speed as possible so I don’t see myself ever offering those types of parts. There are way too many incompetent people out there with good credit and put one of those modified skis in their hands and you’re asking for an accident! I do have a few aftermarket parts available that I’ve collected through the years though for old 2 strokes, so if you’re still interested in mods check here for what parts I have in stock.
If you’re still thinking about doing mods, my advice is as follows… If you want to rebuild it soon, up the compression. If you want your engine to last a little longer, an aftermarket pipe and carb mods as well as a different impeller should get you some extra speed without killing too much reliability. I don’t have any actual performance modification info on this site, but there are many online forums and sites that specialize in that so Google them if you’re still in the market for info and help.

MY OPINION ON THE 4 STROKE VS 2 STROKE DEBATE…
On this subject, you’ll get widely varying opinions on which is best but here’s how I see it. The 4 stroke lasts longer, but is way more complicated so when they start breaking it’s going to be costlier. They also are really specialized so most of the time they need to go to the dealer for any serious mechanical issues. The 4 stroke by design is also a heavier, less agile machine compared to 2 stroke models. Mechanically, the 2 stroke is a simpler machine and most of the time you can do repairs yourself. If people do the proper maintenance on the 2 strokes, they will usually last hundreds of hours before it needs major repairs.
This debate as far as new skis is concerned won’t be an issue soon due to the strict environmental laws that are leading to the phasing out of all 2 strokes with the exception of fuel efficient non polluting models (The E-TEC 2 Stroke Outboard is a good example). It’s a shame that Sea Doo and others appear to have given up on pursuing the available technology to make 2 strokes work. Due to their light weight, high revving, and big hp per cc they are clearly the best engines for PWC use. I’m keeping my fingers crossed though!

THINKING ABOUT PURCHASING AN RXP / RXT SUPERCHARGED SEA DOO?
I’ve noticed recently several posts on various boards about RXP/RXT hulls delaminating. What typically happens is you’re riding along and a large chunk of the fiberglass and gelcoat comes off the bottom. No one is really sure what’s causing this, but it appears to not be covered under warranty. If you’re considering purchasing a used one, make sure to inspect the underside of the hull for cracks/damage. If there is any, pass on the deal. If you’re looking at purchasing new, quiz the dealer and try to get him to put something in writing about hull warranty coverage. This problem seems most common on 2005 and older but still do your homework on the newer models as well. There’s a thread here that also has some interesting info on the hull problem.

A NOTE ABOUT AFTERMARKET STAINLESS WEAR RINGS…
There are several companies currently selling aftermarket Sea Doo wear rings with a stainless covering inside or actual solid stainless as well. The way I've understood it, the stainless was designed to keep the tolerances tight for the best speed/pump output. It's a really nice looking piece but really should only be used if you aren't near sand/gravel and don't plan to be. The reason is that the oem rubber/fiberglass ring is designed to wear (hence the term "Wear Ring") when foreign objects pass through the pump. With the stainless ring, the impeller and pump bearings take most of the abuse if you get into sand, rocks, etc. A $250 impeller or a $50 ring? The choice seems clear to me. You're much better off with the stock sacrificial one in the long run unless you want a really tight clearance for the most speed.

THINKING ABOUT PURCHASING A MID ‘90S 787 POWERED DOO?
You should check to see if the ski has a 787X engine (look on tag on mag housing). The 787X was a limited production (a little over 500) engine that was installed in 1995 XP800 and some 1996 XP and GSX to make Sea Doo eligible for the 1200 racing class. It’s the same as the 787 with the exception of the cylinders being bored 0.25mm over from the factory. Unlike the Hemi Superbird, that one isn’t worth much! The horsepower increase was minimal and since you can’t bore it any further without rave valve machining and aftermarket pistons, that engine normally requires a re-sleeve if you toast a bearing or ring. If possible, go with a standard bore 787 machine.

HAVE A 787 OR 947 ROTAX IN YOUR PWC?
On various Sea Doo boards, I’ve noticed recently people having counterbalance gear failures. I think most of the problem lies in the fact that most 787/947 Sea Doo owners don’t realize there is a oil reservoir in the crankcase that needs checked. Check out the 787/947 Reservoir Check page I put together for help with that!

DO YOU OWN A SUPERCHARGED SEA DOO?
If so, there is a problem that I feel needs mentioned here. The Supercharged model is a great machine no doubt. BUT…a mechanic friend of mine who works for a dealership nearby says he’s seeing lots of supercharger failures. The problem is that under repeated no load high revs like you find when it jumps a wave, the supercharger produces excess boost which puts strain on the superchargers’ ceramic clutches. Riding conditions and habits are a big factor on when they go, but clutch failure typically happens around 50 hours. Usually when the ceramic clutches on the supercharger fail, they go places where they shouldn’t so the engine has to come apart. Sea Doo will put in an upgraded clutch assembly under warranty, but you’re out of luck if it fails once the warranty has expired. If you own one of these machines and it hasn’t been updated, I would recommend having it checked regularly by your local dealer or mechanic and get the update as soon as you notice a decrease in rpm/power. Note though that even the updated clutch is still ceramic and they WILL fail eventually. From everything I’ve read, the best solution is a hydraulic clutch from Rotax Racing that’s supposed to be bulletproof, but don’t have much info on that one.

HAVE YOU OVERHEATED YOUR SEA DOO RECENTLY?
If so, you should closely monitor the running condition of the engine. An overheated engine can score the cylinders resulting in a loss of compression. More often though, getting an engine hot enough to melt hoses and wires will also melt the plastic cages that retain the balls in their proper places in the main bearings. If those get brittle and fail, the crank will go very fast after that. If you notice any unusual noises shortly after an overheat, you might want to pull the engine and have rebuilt before it grenades and costs much more to repair.

ARE YOU IN OR THINKING ABOUT STARTING A RENTAL BUSINESS?
Unfortunately, due to the phasing out of the ‘ol reliable 587 quite a while back and all 2 strokes as of now, we’re relegated to using 4 Strokes. Those are nice machines but too powerful/fast for rentals in my opinion. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that Sea Doo comes up with a lighter weight/more agile/less powerful ski for rental use but as of now have heard nothing of such a thing. Hopefully they will realize that a good number of people get their first taste of a PWC by renting one and will continue to provide suitable craft for the needs of the Rental/Guided Tour field. If by chance you are in or considering starting a rental business, check out my tips on rental business operation. I have gathered these opinions and suggestions from my experiences in the rental field.

If you have been to Margaritaville in Key West, you might have seen the Sauce Boss play there. He makes a great gumbo that you have to try. You can get the recipe on his site. If you want to see some pictures I took of their shows, check out Dicks’ Last Resort - Cleveland, Ohio and Mr. Eds - Put In Bay, Ohio.

Most of the information on this site is related to Sea Doo Jetboat and PWC information but I also do a bit of SCUBA Diving and always enjoy hanging out on remote islands with friendly people! I have a couple friends down in the Bay Islands off the coast of Honduras who run businesses you might want to check out if looking for a remote getaway. There aren’t many PWCs down there, but the places are worth the trip. Check out my Roatan / Guanaja Islands Page for information

If you want to read a little history of my adventures and see how I have acquired some of my knowledge and crazy opinions, check HERE.

Check out the 2008 Sea Doo lineup.

Other Interesting Links


To purchase an item, all you need to do is e-mail me your zip code for a shipping estimate. As soon as I receive your payment (certified check, postal money order or Credit Card using PayPal), the item will be shipped using UPS or USPS depending on the item. If the item is too large to be shipped, we will provide directions so that you can pick up the item.

Last Updated: December 17, 2008

PWC Ring Navigation Bar List Sites Join Ring Randomly Picked Site Skip Next 5 Web Sites Previous Web Site Skip Previous Site Skip Next Site Next Site

This site has no affiliation with BRP or Sea Doo. Information presented on this website can be found through various other sources throughout the internet so is considered public information (unless otherwise noted) and may be distributed or copied. Use of appropriate byline/photo/image credit is requested. While SeaDooSource.com makes every effort to provide accurate and complete information, there may be inaccuracies in some data. SeaDooSource.com welcomes suggestions on how to improve the site and correct any errors found. SeaDooSource.com provides no warranty, expressed or implied, as to the accuracy, reliability or completeness of furnished data and information.
Some of the documents on this site may contain live references (or pointers) to information created and maintained by other organizations. Please note that SeaDooSource.com does not control and cannot guarantee the relevance, timeliness, or accuracy of these outside materials.
For site security purposes and to ensure that this service remains available to all users, this server employs software programs to monitor network traffic to identify unauthorized attempts to upload or change information, or otherwise cause damage. Unauthorized attempts to upload information or change information on this website are strictly prohibited and may be punishable under the Computer Fraud and Abuse Act of 1986 and the National Information Infrastructure Protection Act. Information may also be used for authorized law enforcement investigations.