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SoftMaple N HunterBay
Fall Litter

Week Seven (Days 43-49)

+ Total hearing/visual capacity
+ Will investigate anything
+ Can't respond yet to name

Canine Socialization Period (21 - 49 Days):
Interacting with his mother and littermates, the pup learns various canine behaviors. He is now aware of the differences between canine and human societies.

Human Socialization Period (7 to 12 Weeks):
The pup has the brain wave of and adult dog. The best time for going to a new home. He now has the ability to learn respect, simple behavioral responses: sit, stay, come. Housebreaking begins. He now learns by association. The permanent man/dog bonding begins, and he is able to accept gentle discipline and establish confidence.


By the time a puppy is 7 weeks old (end of seven weeks) it should have:

1) BEEN ON 7 different surfaces:
Carpet Concrete Wood Vinyl Grass Dirt Gravel Wood Chips Newspaper Etc.

2) PLAYED WITH 7 different types of objects:
Big Balls Small Balls Soft Fabric Toys Fuzzy Balls Squeaky Toys Metal Items Wooden Items Paper/Cardboard Items Milk/Soda Jugs Etc.

3) BEEN IN 7 different locations:
Front Yard Back Yard Basement Kitchen Car Garage Laundry Room Bathroom Crate Kennel Etc.

4) BEEN EXPOSED to 7 challenges:
Climbed a box Climbed off a box Go thru a tunnel Climbed up steps Climbed down steps Climbed over obstacles Played hide & seek Go in & out doorway with a step Etc.

5) EATEN FROM 7 different containers:
Metal Plastic Cardboard Paper China Pie Plate Frying pan Etc.

6) EATEN IN 7 different locations:
Crate Yard Kitchen Basement Laundry room Bathroom X-pen Etc.

7) MET AND PLAYED WITH 7 new people: including children & the elderly

Day 43

Waking up . .. . Breakfast in the Shark cage

Back to the puppy room... ... Second Breakfast

I don't know how Bailey can stand nursing them still. I always try to let the mom set the time to stop nursing. They get most of their nutrition from the meals I give them, even eating dry food at times. But, she still hops in a few times a day. Its important that they still have interaction with mom at this age. Some breeders take the mom away as early as possible, and the pups miss those important lessons she must teach them. Bite inhibition is one of them. Right now their teeth are so sharp, and they will bite at anything. Including my ankles!

Biting is a natural puppy behavior. Puppies explore their world with their mouths, and they use their teeth extensively in play. Learning bite inhibition is an important part of a young puppy's education. If he bites his mom or his littermates too hard, they let him know. Mom may reprimand him roundly if his needle sharp puppy teeth close too hard during nursing, and his siblings may yipe and refuse to play with him if he bites too hard. One of the pitfalls of taking a puppy away from his littermates too soon is that he misses out on this important lesson. Pups should stay together with their litters and their moms.

Even then, our pups comes to us with sharp baby-teeth, and we need to continue his bite-inhibition lessons. We can direct his chewing instincts toward appropriate chew toys (a stuffed Kong is ideal for this) as are various soft plush and rope toys. We can also imitate his littermates by giving a sharp, high-pitched "yipe" when he bites too hard, and stopping the play session by getting up and walking away. Our pup will soon learn that his behavior makes a good thing go away (this is called "negative punishment," and involves no physical correction whatsoever), and will learn to soften his bite so we will keep playing with him. After a brief time out of a minute or two, we can go back to playing. If he bites too hard again, give another yipe and do another time out. He'll get it eventually.

Do not use physical force or punishment, such as hitting him, holding his muzzle closed or forcing you hand down his throat. Some puppies will become aggressive when you do this, and others will learn to fear your hands. Neither of these is a good outcome.
Copyright 2004 Peaceable Paws.

Day 44

Storming the gate

some are leaping and almost getting over the low partition

At least one meal a day for the pups is dry dog food. I try to switch the pups over to Iams mini chunks adult food before they go to their new homes. Iams is a food that everyone can find. (you can get it in supermarkets, wholesale warehouse stores and pet stores) Im not going to say its the best food. But it is a good quality food. I also feed a digestive enzyme like Prozyme or Missing Link. It helps the dog get the most out of the food. You can switch your pup to whatever food you feel is best. Some dogs do better on a particular food. Some will do well on anything. But I don't feed a puppy food. This makes the bones grow too fast. Feed either an adult food, or a large breed puppy food.

Tomorrow I will start making arrangements to fly those pups that need to be flown. Im shooting for the 28th to fly pups. (I hope the weather cooperates!) If anyone hasn't e-mailed me with the nearest airport, please do so now. (or re-email it, so I have the information!) The airport I use is over 100 miles from my house. I have a closer airport, but it doesn't have as many direct flights. The shipping crates arrived today, and I will put them in the puppy room so the pups are used to them. Hopefully tomorrow will be mild, so I can take them all for a ride in the shipping crates and get them used to the movement and sound.

Federal regulations require each kennel be properly marked as follows:

  • Display a "Live Animals" Label with letters at least 1 inch high, on top and on at least one side of the kennel.
  • Indicate the Top with arrows or "This End Up" markings on at least two sides.
  • Feeding Instructions Label: If food is necessary it must be attached to the outside of the kennel.
  • Feeding Certification Attached: Certification must be attached to the kennel stating that the animal has been offered food and water within four hours prior to dropoff (or tender) with Northwest. IMPORTANT: Do not feed your animal in the two (2) hours prior to departure, as a full stomach can cause discomfort for a traveling pet.
  • Contact Information Label: Label with your name, address and phone number at origin and destination cities. It is also a good idea to include your pet's name.

Requirements to Ship

  • Animals must be at least 8 weeks of age. 
  • Shipping kennel or cage must meet standards for size, ventilation, strength and design. Animals must have enough room to stand up and turn around. Kennels must be equipped with one food and water cup. Kennels must be marked with shipper's name, address and phone number and pick-up person's name, address and phone number (if different from shipper), Live Animal Stickers should be applied to the kennel and the last time fed and watered indicated. Place newspaper or absorbent material on the bottom of the crate. 
  • Animal may not be exposed to temperatures of less than 45 degrees Fahrenheit unless there is an acclimation statement by a Veterinarian.
  • Health Certificate must be issued by a licensed Veterinarian and be no more than 10 days old.
  • Animals may not be brought to the airline more than 4 hours before a flight.
  • Animals less than 16 weeks of age must be offered food and water if transit is more than 12 hours. Older animals must have food at least every 24 hours and water at least every 12 hours.
  • Animals over 16 weeks must have rabies shots current. 

Things to Consider