i'm going on my 3rd summer surfing...and i'm getting better by the day! it all started when lauren and i were incredibly bored...and checking out the hot guy working in ocean hut..well, we decided 2 take lessons...and it just so happened that this mighty attractive guy was to b our teacher! we went out that first day on a foam bz board...and made fools of ourselves...something not very uncommon. but...practice makes perfect...and we're both getting better. honest! well...usually i use a 6'5" gordon and smith funboard that's old as hell. but, on rare occasions when i'm feeling strong, i take out an 8'4" longboard that's also old as hell...and the heaviest thing i've ever had 2 carry in my life. o yea...i have a house in lavallette, nj. yea...the surf isn't that great, but every now and then it picks up. better than nothing. well...that's pretty much it...catch ya in the surf! haha...pretty corny...i know ;)
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"Aquasphere"Seeing as this floating marble we inhabit is three-quarters water, it could be said that humans are trapped on land. And of that one-quarter land we are confined to, less than a third is habitable......Efforts to colonize Mars and build space stations consume far more of our resources than does the development of underwater cities of floating suburbias-woefully denying the fact that living on or in the ocean is a much easier and more logical solution to our space crisis than an orbiting condo off one of Jupiter's moons... ...Although once ocean creatures, humans have evolved away from gills and webbed toes. Surfers, however, are diverting the evolutionary track. We flock to the sea and revel in the saltwater virtually every chance we get... ...And in feeding our addiction, we fight our landtrapment. We glob on the sunscreen, walk across sharp lava, slippery rocks, and scorching sand, we leave the earth's naked crust for awhile to a place where life is flowing, liquid, full of strange and wonderful creatures. We are happily putting in the tiume, creating a slow transformation to bodies that are once again at home in the ocean. Should land ever overtake the ocean, we would surely die-not enough oxygen. Should the ocean somehow take over the land, it would be difficult, but we would adapt and survive (some sort of Waterworld minus Kevin Costner)... ...When there are too many rats in the cage humans do what they always have, wander to a new place. The Aquasphere may well be our next nomadic destination... ...and the possibility of surfing a perfect, human-made pointbreak down past the cul de sac of your aquahood isn't as far-fetched as you might think. But watch out for the robots, they'll drop in on you every time... ~Scooter Leonard (Surfing Magazine) |
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