Week of September 15, 1999:

We're Going to Hell ('s Kitchen) -- Been over to Ninth Avenue lately? You and a million other types, it seems -- time was, when you wouldn't be caught dead there after dark, but those days are long gone, but thankfully, save for the lone beacon of chainification (Starbucks on 48th St), the neighborhood possesses a unique character, completely unlike any other in the city. Get set to rumble.

With all these awful TV shows portraying the newly sanitized-friend-to-all New York where unemployeds, entry-levelers and college kids lounge around in enormous loft apartments that real folks with six-figure salaries can't even afford nowadays, it's a pleasure to see the droopy Nic Cage's newest entry, "Bringing Out The Dead," a film due out this fall, portraying Hell's Kitchen as the undesirable it used to be.

Good. Maybe they'll stop moving in. Try-as-might, it's almost impossible to find anything affordable this side of 11th Avenue these days, and it looks as if it's only getting worse.

Nice thing is, all the new folks transplanting, Ninth Avenue is buzzing with energy. So what if Time Out New York, that ever irrelevant rag, continues to ignore the force they will soon have no choice but to contend with -- Ninth in the 40's is where it's at these days.

And it's really not what you do over there, it's just watching, and observing, that I love. Walk from Midtown down something in the low 50's, and turn left at the light, and just walk down to 42nd Street. You're bound to find far too many dinner choices before you've even hit the halfway mark. Of course, if bar hopping's your thing, stop in at McCoy's (between 51st and 52nd on the east side of the street) and order up a pint, and if you care for a burger or a salad, order one or the other up and be pleasantly surprised. Somewhat of a journalist's hangout, but mostly just a fabulous Irish pub, McCoy's also has a fantastic jukebox that you'll most likely be waiting in line to use.

And it's amazingly odd that this slice of a space serves food -- as far as we know, there is no kitchen, proved by the last time a friend and I ordered food at the bar, and watched the barkeep dial up a remote location to put the order in

We suspect that Island Burgers and Shakes, directly next door, is the alleged kitchen. Even if it isn't, McCoy's burgers are just as delicious, and they also have big, main course salads -- so, hint hint -- if you don't like the plasticky ambiance of that famed burgers (no fries) joint, why not just order from McCoy's instead -- it's the same damn good food, and you can get drunk to boot.

Should you happen by in the mornings, don't miss Amy's Bread, (between 47th and 48th, also on the east side.) Not too much atmosphere, but a gaggle of tables in the rear are all you need, as the focus here is clearly on the baked goods, and equally pleasing coffee. Musn't forget to take a loaf of bread home.

Of course, if you'd like to do a little food shopping, there's numerous specialty food shops, selling coffee beans, cheese, fish, meats -- restaurants shop here, and why shouldn't you? Some of the best are located just past the Port Authority, around 40th Street. 

Don't be afraid to cross the street and head right back up to the 50's -- guaranteed, you missed most of it on the first round.

Guaranteed -- you'll love it, but for goodness sakes -- don't even think of moving here! It's already too crowded.

Directions: A to 59th or 42nd Sts, E to 7th Ave, 50th or 42nd Sts.

McCoy's
768 Ninth Avenue
(bet. 51st & 52nd Sts)
212-957-8055

Island Burgers and Shakes
766 Ninth Avenue
(bet. 51st & 52nd Sts)
212-307-7934

Amy's Bread
672 Ninth Avenue
(bet. 46th & 47th Sts)
212-977-2670

Email: dj@asan.com

Next Update: 1 October

all contents ã1999