Week of September 1, 1999:

Set your sights (on the Heights) -- All jokes of going "downtown" to 86th Street aside, Washington Heights is a pretty interesting neighborhood, with a great sense of place. Don't believe us? Visit.

My first visit to what I know as Washington Heights (181st to Fort Tryon, along Fort Washington/Pinehurst/Cabrini Blvd -- on the hill) I was wowed. Charmed. I wanted to stay. I was only visiting town, so I hadn't had time to hear all the way-uptown jokes and snide comments about life in Inwood. I wasn't interested. All I knew was that I had stumbled on a great old neighborhood, one of those places that was still really truly a neighborhood. And it still is, although the rents have crept past that $1000 mark, a true sign that the outside world has arrived.

And don't you miss out -- just a 20 minute ride from Columbus Circle on the A train during the day, take a trip to place where the pace is just a little slower, the vibe is mellow, and the neighbors don't complain. Combine your visit with a trip to the Cloisters, and you've got an afternoon that's bound to make you want to move. Take the A train to 190th Street, upon exiting, turn right into Fort Tryon Park, and either take the upper road through the beautiful gardens and up to the old fort lookout site, where you get a beautiful view of the Hudson and the GWB, which looks pretty damn impressive from here.

Or, you can take the lower road to the museum, which needs no introduction. all around the museum site are big old stone walls where you can stand or sit and stare at the majesty of one this country's most wonderful riverscapes. Or enter the museum (donations, please!) and head straight to the Herb Garden and the patios on the lower level. I like to sit on the wall and read, but the tourists may get to be a little much, as they did on one recent occasion. I fled to the indoor courtyard and hid in one of the window alcoves. Having a vivid imagination, I could imagine myself in a Shakespeare plot line. (I did not bite my thumb at the tourists, no I did not.)

When you can't see another medieval panel painting without the threat of going crosseyed, head out of the park, and down Fort Washington Avenue, into the neighborhood. Turning right on West 187th St (up the hill) to Pinehurst, observe this wonderful little pint-sized Main Street, and turn left on Pinehurst, where you'll find Helene & Co, a homey little coffee shop with great bagels and pastries and equally satisfactory coffee. Just make sure to shut the door behind you, or the lady of the house will yell at you. But hey -- she still loves you. Don't worry.

Sit out at one of the two tables on the sidewalk and observe. You won't want to move. Of course, if it's river views you're wanting, just walk around the corner to the big stone wall that overlooks, once again, the bridge, and the majestic river it spans.

Are we still in the city? Hard to tell.

Directions: A to 190th Street.

The Cloisters
Fort Tryon Park
Fort Washington @ 190th St.
Open Tues - Sun: 9:30AM-5PM
212-923-3700

Helene & Co
211 Pinehurst Avenue
Open early 7 days.
212-781-4396

Email: dj@asan.com

Next Update: 1 September 1999

all contents ã1999