For some strange reason, perhaps as an extension of a New Yorker’s perverse leanings toward self-abuse, we pretend to love the deli coffee that comes in the Pleasure To Serve You cups.

Nobody’s saying that the Pleasure to Serve You cups aren’t a cultural gem, as New York as the Statue of Liberty – but that still doesn’t mean the very idea isn’t about as ridiculous as passing over a bottle of Veuve Cliquot for the Gallo Merlot (and not Gallo of Sonoma either, mind you – the Modesto version). And we’re somehow confused when our out of town friends think we’re nuts.

Blame it on a bunch of factors: First off, the New York pace is not exactly conducive to the type of person who obsesses about the roasting process, has the time to wait around for a good cup of coffee. Why is there a Starbucks on every corner? Simple. Where were it’s worthy competitors? Nowhere.

We do have our bright moments – a handful of the blends offered by Porto Rico, Two for the Pot, Ozzie’s in Park Slope and Zabar’s surely fit the bill. But inconsistency seems to be a theme at all – my heart broke when I saw the new Oren’s in Grand Central with the line of spigots spewing coffee out of the back wall, in an attempt to move the customers in and out faster. God rest, Oren’s -- I hardly knew ye.

After a long period of intense searching, my gaze wandered elsewhere – far, far away to other cities and exotic climes, where time moves slower, and the love of coffee is recognized as legitimate and worthwhile passion.

The list is constantly evolving – but here are the top few finds, for now. Next stop: Wisconsin and Minnesota, where similar excellence brews daily in Northern Plains and Northwoods pot alike. Stay tuned.

Raven’s Brew Coffee – Ketchikan, AK
I first laid eyes on these beautiful beans at a tiny café on Kodiak Island -- hands down the best coffee in the United States I’ve encountered so far. When the company tag line is “Last Legal High”, you’d expect nothing less. The air-roasting process eliminates bitter aftertaste and heightens flavor. It’s always roasted to order -- and cheap too. Blends such as Dead Man’s Reach (Served in Bed, Raises the Dead) and the Wicked Wolf (Grannie’s Gone, Coffee’s On) are spectacularly clean, sweet and strong. Best of all, you could frame the packaging – local wildlife artists take time out to go psycho-strange on label design. See it, taste it, wonder what kind of town Ketchikan is to spawn such excellence in caffeine funkiness.
157 Eichner Ave, Ketchikan, AK 99901, 1-800-91-RAVEN /www.ravensbrew.com

Intelligentsia – Chicago, IL
Just a few blocks north of this slick but excellent Windy City roaster café is an even better, more grass-roots outfit, the locally legendary Coffee & Tea Exchange. Alas, even when I lived and worked in the City that Works, getting mail order from them was a pain in the ass – we had to pick up from the unmarked warehouse on a barren alley off of Clybourn Avenue. But for a taste of one of the things Chicago does best, giving Seattle a run for its money, order up some of the dark roast from Intelligentsia. They make the most amazing Americanos – espresso roast well recommended. If tea is your thing, check out their list. They’re known for it citywide.
3123 North Broadway, Chicago, IL 60657 773-348-8058 / www.intelligentsiacoffee.com

Kaladi Brothers – Anchorage, AK
What’s with Alaska and the coffee. Long winters? Who knows, but here’s another bit of heaven I stumbled on to while on assignment to the great white north over the summer. Interestingly, this is one of two very excellent local roasters battling for the business of 200,000 Anchoragians. There’s more than enough room for both, it seems. Obsessed locals line up at counters across town for the air-roasted beans. I gambled on the Safari Blend (60% Tanzanian, 40% French). No regrets, except that I should have brought home ten pounds instead of two.
6901 E Tudor Rd, Anchorage, AK, (907) 337-3100 / www.kaladi.com>

Torrefazione Italia, Seattle
Turn to this angel in the night for some of the best espresso beans you’ll ever put through your grinder. Little known fact: It’s sold at Virgin Megastore Cafés in New York, but asking underpaid pastry jockeys to take care that the drip blend is quite fresh just pushes things a little too far. One of the smarter chains in existence, it has relatively few stores nationwide (20 at last count). Roasted on a small island adrift in Puget Sound may or may not have something to do with the quality. That they’ll open a store in Dallas and not in New York just goes to show how unworthy we are.
320 Occidental Ave S, Seattle, WA, 98104, 800-827-2333 / www.titalia.com

Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, Los Angeles
A city that spawned the Coffee Bean can’t be all bad – I’ve had my share of bad Shallowtown experiences, but never has this SoCal chain failed to love me in the morning. The espresso blend is a winner, a good clue to the care taken in the rest of the roasts. When in LA, there’s no way you can go wrong getting in line here. A RedEye to start the day, and you can take off those Oakleys and face the light without fear. If you were wearing them for the light in the first place.
1945 S La Cienega, Los Angeles,CA 90034, 800-TEA-LEAF / www.coffeebean.com

Caffe Ladro, Seattle
“Our beans are the work of the devil,” whispers website copy. “People can’t stop coming in for more. It’s freaky.” Not so freaky once you taste how good the beans truly are. This fun loving chain of four “Coffee Thieves” makes the best damn lattes in the universe, but since they won’t mail order you one, log on to the E-Beans section. You can slice or dice it any way you care to, but there’s only one blend. If you’re ever in Seattle, make tracks --- your best bet is the Fremont location, which has the friendliest vagrants and most efficient baristas in town.
2205 Queen Anne N, Seattle, WA, 98109, (206) 282-5313 / www.caffeladro.com

Email: davidr@lifeingotham.com

Next Update: 15 February