This is where you can put up your best tips for all to see. If you have a
good Plastic Modeling Tip please leave it to me in E-Mail at the Address Below and I
will put it up. We are all in this Great Hobby together. Lets make it more interesting
for all.....Thanks
1) Westley's Bleche-White whitewall tire cleaner is the fastest, easiest, most effective
paint and chrome stripper I've ever used and I've used plenty, including commercial products
like Easy Lift-Off. It's dirt cheap about $4.00 for half a gallon and won't harm plastic or
resin. Just pour some in a Tupperware, or similar container, let the parts you want to strip
marinate for a few hours, then scrub off any stubborn bits of paint or chrome with an old
toothbrush.
[This Tip Is From : Ken Hart of Grayson, Ky. & Fine Scale Modeler Magazine.]
2) Save those Plastic lids from the small butter, hot chocolate, ect. and use them for
paint pallets. You can use them to mix paints, epoxy, or any other mixable substance and if
you want to save them to use again usually you just have to flex them or wipe them to remove
the left over residue.
3) When building a car model and the shifter you get with the model has the shift knob
molded off center you can fix it by cutting the molded one off and replacing it with a round
white pin head. Use super glue to attach it to the plastic.
[This Tip Is From : George Bojaciuk of Royersford Pa & Fine Scale Modeler Magazine (5/97)]
4) PANEL LINES - I use Artist Watercolor paint to accentuate the recess lines on models.
I use a small brush to paint the recessed lines, let it dry then wipe off the excess with a
dampened cotton swab. It looks great and it wont affect the paint job underneath.
[This Tip Is From : Jacob de Mare' of Malome Sweden and Fine Scale Modeler Magazine (4/97)]
5) To remove Polly Scale Acrylic paint from your models you can use Spic-and-Span.
Spray it on and almost immediately you'll be able to wash away the paint under tap water.
[This Tip Is From : Dale Travis of La Grange Park Illinois & Fine Scale Modeler Magazine (3/97)]
6) To make Ruined Walls & Stone Rubble use scraps of plastic foam. Its easy to shape and
has the correct texture.
[This Tip Is From : Todd Carter of Salt Lake City & Fine Scale Modeler Magazine (3/97)]
7) To make Throttle and other Levers on 1/48 Scale Aircraft Cockpits you can use gap-filling
super glue. Apply a drop to the tip of the Lever and let it dry upside down. Gravity will
cause the super glue to form a ball on the end of the lever. To increase the size of the ball
repeat the process over and over.
[This Tip Is From : Paul Repcik of Vicenza Italy & Fine Scale Modeler Magazine (3/97)]
8) You can use Elmers Exterior Wood Filler to fill Seam and Imperfections in any plastic
model. It's sandable in 2 to 8 hours and dries rock hard in 24 hours.
[This Tip Is From : Adin Kolodny of Carmel Indiana & Fine Scale Modeler (3/97)]
9) To make a simple Stain and Ready Made Wash you can try Aqua Stain Acrylic Wood Stain that
is found in most craft stores. Add a drop of dish soap to improve the flow of the stain. This
is very useful on German Africa Korp Yellow Schemes.
[This Tip Is From : Scott Linderman of Hinsdale New York & Fine Scale Modeler (3/97)]
10) Military Gas Masks are fantastic protection when working around fumes. Respirators cover
only the mouth & nose where a Gas Mask also covers the eyes and usually sell for about $10.00
to $15.00 at a Military Surplus Store.
[This Tip Is From : Brian Fukoda of Niles Illinois & Fine Scale Modeler Magazine (3/97)]
11) To restore an old Decal Sheet that may be Disintegrating you should use Floquil Crystal
-Cote (Clear Gloss). Apply a couple of light coats and the decal will be ready to use in 1
hour. When you are ready to use you then must cut out each decal as close as possible because
the Clear Cote links all decals on the sheet as 1 one. Normal Decal Setting Solutions should
work too. Experiment with a spare decal to make sure you have used enough clear coat.
[This Tip Is From : Paul Boyer of Fine Scale Modeler Magazine]
12) To make Chipping Paint on a model decide where you want the chipping effect and paint
the area Chrome Silver. After spraying let dry about 15 to 20 minutes then paint your model
the finish coat in the desired scheme you are doing. Apply the decals normally BUT DON'T
add the final flat coat. Roll masking tape with the sticky side out and press the tape onto
the area you want to show chipping. Pull off the and see the chipped area. You'll find the
chips of paint on the tape with the silver chipped effect on the model. When you get to the
Decal leave it alone and use a small tipped paint brush and paint silver chips onto the decal.
Another way is to scrape the area above the silver paint with a tooth pick until the desired
effect is there.
[This Tip Is From : Shannon P. McKeirnan of Ramona California & Fine Scale Modeler Magazine]
13) To Fill Seams on models that have surface texture like Corregated Sides I used the thick
stuff at the bottom of an unshaken bottle of Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer 1000. Dig it out with a
toothpick and apply it to the model. When the Mr. Surfacer was dry I wiped off the excess with
a cotton swap soaked in Testors Metalizer Thinner without affecting the plastic.
[This Tip Is From : Chris Beaumont of Murrumbeena Australia & Fine Scale Modeler Magazine.]
14) To make great Small Scale Ship Rigging use Fishing fly-tying line available in Fly
Fishing Specialty Shops. The thinnest is .002" in diameter. Thats 1/4" in 1/700 scale. This
line is alot finer than thread and has no fuzzy effect. It can be attached with super glue.
[This Tip Is From : Paul Boyer of Fine Scale Modeler Magazine.]
15) For the Modeler that is connected to the Internet and wants to keep in touch with other
modelers in Cyber Space is to check for plastic modeling NEWS GROUPS like rec.models.scale
is to use the Search Engine DejaNews. Type in the search area "PLASTIC MODELS" and see what
comes up. Write down the names and add them to your News Groups. You will find modelers of
all type in these groups and even find people that want to sell models. I have found people
in these groups and bought models with no problem. WATCH OUT FOR SCAMS THOUGH.
[This Tip Is From : Arthur F. Sintef of East Moriches New York. (Yeah Me)]
16) To make Stands for Figures and small Vignettes use the screw on lids from peanut butter,
Instant Coffee, Salad Dressings, Ect. I fill the lids with Plaster of Paris for stability
and drill holes through the top to help anchor the ground work. Paint the lids a neutral color
and add a piece of felt to the bottom so it wont slip.
[This Tip Is From : Thomas Kielick of Bel Air Maryland & Fine Scale Modeler Magazine.(2/97)]
17) Check out the Nail Finishing Section in your local drug store and check out the selection
of Sanding Sticks usually used to file and buff finger nails. They even have a 3 Grit Buffer
ideal for fixing flaws on clear parts. These sticks range in price from $2.00 to $5.00.
[This Tip Is From : Bill Thomson of Boise Idaho & Fine Scale Modeler Magazine.]
18) When assembling individule track links on an armor piece cover your work space with wax
paper. This will prevent the parts from sticking to your work surface.
[This Tip Is From : Tim Tumminaro of Batavia Illinois & Fine Scale Modeler Magazine. (5/97)]
19) To simulate engine components, wiring and plumbing use Fine Guage Solder available at
hardware and Electronics Supply Stores. Its available in several diameters and is easily
shaped and takes most paints well. A single roll will detail several 1/25 scale Auto's.
[This Tip Is From : Scott L. Ambert of Sarasota Florida & Fine Scale Modeler Magazine.]
20) Need a good LARGE sanding block for fuselage halves or other large pieces? Get a good
size piece of scrap countertop, (make sure it's dead flat), or glass. Cover it carefully
{no ridges!) with double sided carpet tape, and apply your sandpaper, again carefully.
Lay it on your workbench and sand away to your hearts content with anything that needs
a straight edge! {MARCH 28 1999}
This Tip Is From : David Bailey : Starting again after 20 year. {whaler@aracnet.net}
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