North Carolina Pygmy Goat Club

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Club News!

News from the National Convention and NPGA Board Meeting

National Champions

National Champions

Co-National Champion Wethers, for the very first time ever we have a tie!

Little Roulettes Oreo

Breeder: David & Bow Lynne McEwen

Owner: Cheyenne Karger

 

Dusty Pines Splendid Nature

Breeder: Tanya Reed

Owner: Marisa or Carey Doyle

 

National Champion Doe

PGCH Cozy Cottage Isabella

Breeder: Pamela Goza

Owner: Donna Elkins

 

National Champion Buck

PGCH Lotsa-Does-4A-Buck Shocks-N-Struts

Breeder: Katy Noffsinger

Owner: Mark or Linda Morningstar

 

These New Business agenda items either failed or were withdrawn:

E. JTC Travel Reimbursement

            All members of the JTC who attend the JE will receive reimbursement.

H. Displaying Champion Ribbons

            Exhibitors may display ribbons however they wish.

I. Removal procedures for absent directors.

            Withdrawn due to conflict with Bylaw procedure for the same. 

K. Closing the Herdbook

The herdbook will remain open.

L.  Con Ed Facilitator to be 2 Judges

            Consensus from most judges has been to keep a non-judge as the facilitator, the Board agreed.

M. Remove the Provisional Judge Program

            The Provisional Judge Program will stay in place for now.  It was originally thought to give it at least 5 years before re-evaluating this program.

N-O. Repeal 6/08 Board decision to add new color on Registration Application and Color Chart.

            The gray/brown agouti color will remain.  The NPGA Color Chart and color descriptions are to be updated by the Breed Standard Committee.

P. Allow 1 GCH win with 6 Reserve Grands.

            This was withdrawn.  Reserve Grand wins will be shown in the online Herdbook.     

R. Additional charge for not transferring goats within 90 days.

            This was withdrawn.  There is no extra charge, but owners are encouraged to process their transfers before the 90 day deadline to avoid confusion for judges,  show secretaries and NPGA Show coordinators.

W. How to determine that a yearling freshened doe is indeed freshened.

            The exhibitor is to be trusted as to whether a doe has freshened and to enter her in the appropriate class.  A doe is freshened if she kids at day 135 or later in her gestation.  It doesn’t matter if the kid is a live birth or stillbirth, normal or deformed, registered or not.  An exhibitor who knowingly shows in the wrong class is in violation of the Members Code of Ethics and a complaint may be filed.

  V. Barring a Judge from judging a goat in the herdname of a household member.

            Seen as too restrictive and complicated.  However a show secretary or club can make this a provision or a judge can request that such goats not be shown under him/her.

X. Reduction of size of Board.

            The Board will remain at 16 directors.

 

These Items Passed:

F. Conflict of Interest for the Directors.  The Board decided to add the Director's Agreement to those documents for which members may pursue complaints.

G. There has been a reduction of number of does required from 20 to 12 for Sanctioned Youth Shows only.

J. Master Champion Challenge will no longer use the Grand Champion of the day to compete in this class.  This will apply to those champions that finish at that show too, they will not be allowed to compete in the Master Champion Challenge associated with that show.  They may show in any following show .

Q. Colorado has been moved to Region 7.

Simplify colorchoices on Registrations Applications to these 7 choices - Solid Black, Black, Black Agouti, Grey Agouti, Brown Agouti, Grey/Brown Agouti, and Caramel.  You no longer need to state whether an agouti or caramel is light, medium or dark.

It is no longer necessary to send a class list in when applying for a show sanction.

 

Other news:

Our very own Maggie Leman was appointed as Publications Committee Chair.

Gail Parker from TX is now the Election Coordinator.

Best of Memo 4 – Publications Chair Maggie Leman is beginning the project.

The Public Relations Chair, JT Struthers, is building an event display which will be tried at the CA State Fair.  He plans for the PR committee to make similar displays available in every region for use at NPGA events.

There is an important vacancy position.  Due to ill health Jim Huber is planning to resign as Merchandise Chair person at the end of the year.  This will be advertised in MEMO.

The 2010 NPGA Convention will be held in Hamilton , Ohio - Region 4 on June 17-22.

NPGA Volunteers of the Year - There were two winners --Aaron Esterline and Nic Everett.

 

The  Current NPGA Board of Directors

Region 1 - Linda Shipley  and Joyce Hubbard  VRD - Karen Crawford   

Region 2 - Ray Hoyt and Michelle Fonda    VRD - Kevin Kress

Region 3 - April Seiler and Denise Fraser (filling out Donna Elkins term)    VRD - vacant

Region 4 - Aaron Esterline and Kelly Culp     VRD - Jean Sisco

Region 5 - Michael O'Kelly and Fran Bishop (who replaced John Murray on his resignation) VRD - vacant

Region 6 -  Cheryl Rogers and Karen Hepner    VRD - vacant

Region 7 - Patricia Kaufmann and Terry Atkins    VRD - Robert Stettler

Region 8 - Maggie Leman and  Andy Nash (who replaced Chris Rowley on his resignation)    VRD - vacant

2009 NPGA Officers

Ray Hoyt - President

Aaron Esterline - Vice President

Michelle Fonda - Secretary

Joyce Hubbard - Treasurer

2010 NPGA Board of Directors

Region 1 - Linda Shipley  and Mark Adkins  VRD - Karen Crawford   

Region 2 - Ray Hoyt and Michelle Fonda    VRD - Kevin Kress

Region 3 - April Seiler and Denise Fraser     VRD - Susan Seiler

Region 4 - Aaron Esterline and Karen Butler     VRD - Jean Sisco

Region 5 - Michael O'Kelly and Lynda Gredin  VRD - Stefany Hemmer

Region 6 -  Cheryl Rogers and Karen Hepner    VRD - vacant

Region 7 - Patricia Kaufmann and Terry Atkins    VRD - Robert Stettler

Region 8 - Maggie Leman and  Debbie McGhee   VRD - vacant

Excerpts From
Helpful Hints For Your Herd

This is just a small sample from our 39 page booklet:

Pygmy Goats 101 By Maggie Leman

Modem pygmy goats in America can trace their roots back to the Cameroon Dwarf Goat of West Africa.  That is why some people call them African Pygmy Goats. The Cameroon Dwarf goat is a short, heavily muscled animal with a dark colored coat. But the pygmy goat seen in America only faintly resembles their ancestors in Africa. Along the way they were probably crossed with Swedish Lapp goats who contributed improved milking ability and the possibility of a light colored coat. Then, once they were imported to the United States, breeders here bred selectively for traits they found desirable and produced a unique little goat called the American Pygmy Goat or just the Pygmy Goat.

Pygmy goats were first imported into the United States in 1959 by the Ruhe Brothers in California and the Catskill Game Farm in New York. Due to federal importation regulations, pygmy goats and other livestock could not be imported directly from Africa. So, pygmy goat does were bought from German zoos, where they were available for about $15 a head. From there they were taken to Sweden to be bred to Danish owned bucks so that the offspring could be imported to the United States. With quarantine, breeding, maintenance and shipping charges, the final cost per animal was about $3500 (in today's dollars that would be more than $10,000). Both the importers felt it was worth the price as they could sell stock to American zoos for display in children’s petting zoos. Apparently their instincts were correct as the pygmy goat is a mainstay of petting zoos everywhere.

The National Pygmy Goat Association’s breed standard describes a pygmy goat as a genetically small goat standing from 16 to about 23 inches at the shoulder, and having a deeper, wider barrel, shorter legs, and shorter, wider face than dairy goats. All colors are acceptable as long as the goat has the required breed markings. There are two patterns for these breed markings: caramel and agouti. The caramel pattern ranges from snow white to deep brown on the body, with darker "trim" on the head, legs, dorsal stripe and belly. The agouti pattern includes all shades of grizzled gray, and shades of grizzled brown with darker trim on the head, legs, and dorsal stripe. When in doubt between caramel and agouti, look at the goat’s stockings. Caramels have a light stripe running up the front of the stockings. Agoutis have solid stockings with no stripe. In addition, partial or complete belly bands of white and white stars on the forehead are acceptable. All other white marks are faults.

There are three sex classes in pygmy goats, bucks, does, and wethers. A buck is a male and a doe is a female, and are breeding animals. A wether is a neutered male, and is primarily a pet. All three are shown at National Pygmy Goat Association shows. Dairy goats shows never feature their wethers, and seldom have classes for their bucks.

Caring For your Pygmy Goats

Housing

Because of their small size and hardiness, pygmy goats are easy to keep. First, they require a dry, draft-free shelter. Pygmy goats need about 15 to 20 square feet of room per animal. That is a space that is 4 feet by 5 feet. So a large dog house could house a grown pygmy goat. But, pygmy goats are herd animals and do not thrive if kept alone. They are best kept in groups. Even a buck would rather be with another buck than be alone. So if you plan to keep pygmy goats, plan to have more than one and provide shelter accordingly. We use a combination of a large barn for our does, and a shed row barn with 8 by 6 foot stalls with separate outdoor pens for our bucks.

Ideally pygmy goats should have access to pasture for exercise and browsing. But many pygmy goats don’t enjoy the luxury of large pastures and are instead kept in pens. The larger the better of course, but a 30 by 30 foot pen is ample for two to four goats. Fencing should be chain link or woven (not welded) wire mesh as pygmies are smart and soon learn to squeeze out of horizontal wires such as that used for horses. Even electric fences won’t hold a determined goat. Secure fences serve a more important role than just keeping your goats out of your neighbor’s prize roses--they keep predators from getting in! Any dog, no matter how friendly, will chase a pygmy goat to death. Often this friendly dog will inflict terrible wounds in the process. It is not the dog’s fault entirely, it is their nature to chase small animals. And, you can’t always count on a dog being confined. So take heed to the old saying, "Good fences make good neighbors," and securely pen your goats.

Feeding Your Pygmy Goat Properly

Secondly, pygmy goats need to be fed properly and have access to clean water. Goats hate stale water and will sometimes go without rather than drink it. Goats need plenty of water to make their digestive system work properly and bucks and wethers, in particular, need water to help prevent the formation of urinary stones. Goats should also be provided with a loose mineral supplement, preferably especially made for goats. The most important food for goats is good hay or good pasture. Many pet pygmy goats do well on a diet of hay or pasture forage only. Some pygmies, such as growing kids and yearlings, and breeding animals need to have their diets supplemented with grain. Every pygmy goat owner has his own opinion about what this grain ration should be. Maggidan’s Minis uses a quality 16% pelleted goat feed for both bucks and does. Occasionally we supplement this feed with a high protein, vitamin and mineral supplement such as Calf Manna for animals in high production such as growth, lactation (milking and raising kids), or heavy breeding. They have access to a loose mineral mix formulated for livestock. We also feed a top quality grass hay. Our goats also have access to large woodsy pastures for browsing. We use the goat’s body condition as a guide for how much supplemental feeding they require. Generally, pet goats are fed way too much, and frequently are fed the wrong things. Goats should never be fed dog or cat food, rabbit pellets, or poultry feed. This kind of diet can lead to severe, sometimes life threatening health problems such as bloat, rumen impaction ("stomach blockage"), and urinary stones.

One of the biggest health problems with pet pygmy wethers and bucks is urinary stones. It is our opinion that the number one cause of urinary stones is improper feeding and watering. Because of a male goat’s physical makeup, it is very difficult for them to pass a urinary stone. Should they develop this condition you are facing an enormous vet bill or euthanasia. Feed and water your goats properly and you will be rewarded with happy healthy frisky pets.

Your Pygmy Goat’s Health Care

Goats have relatively few health care requirements, but these are important. They are hoof trimming, regular deworming and lice control, and vaccinations. Maggidan’s Minis recommends that hooves be trimmed every six to eight weeks. We deworm and delouse four to six times a year. And, we recommend that pygmy goat owners vaccinate against rabies and clostridial diseases such as tetanus. There are several clostridia and tetanus vaccines for goats. Look for one that says "C, D & T". There is no approved rabies vaccine for goats in the US. so we use the vaccine approved for sheep. All of these procedures, except the rabies vaccination, can be done by the owner with just a little training. Most vets or pygmy goat breeders are willing to help you learn. Another good place to learn about pygmy goat care is at goat seminars such as those sponsored by the North Carolina Pygmy Goat Club, or a Small Ruminants or Goat Producer seminar sponsored by veterinary colleges.

The last health requirement for your pet goat pertains not so much to his physical health but to his mental health. Goats are herd animals and are very uncomfortable with being alone. They absolutely require a companion. The best companion is another goat. Lacking this, cows, sheep, llamas and horses make adequate companions. But, a buck should not be included in your pet pair or herd. Pygmy goats are fertile as young as three months, and a pregnancy at this age is a disaster. Pygmy goat does should not be bred until they are about 14-18 months old. They need to be close to their full size when they kid (give birth) five months later to avoid problems with the kid(s) being too big to deliver. Pygmy goats can also breed year round unlike most dairy goats which are fertile only for a few months in the fall. Pygmy does become fertile again in as little as ten days after kidding. The babies are cute, but unending motherhood is a terrible drain on a doe. So you can see that a buck would have to be kept separated from the does except when breeding is desired. Bucks and does should not even share a fence line as they can mate through the fence. This has happened to us more than once. So now our bucks are housed well away from the does to prevent accidental breeding. Besides, bucks don’t make good pets, due to their musk odor and their incessant "need to breed" nature.

This is just a basic guideline for keeping pygmy goats happy and healthy. If you have any further questions we are just an e-mail or phone call away. Or you can go to the websites listed on the Great Goat Resources Page for more in depth reading.

Hey! Need Hay?

Sure you can probably buy hay at the same store you buy your feed, but why pay the high price? The North Carolina Agricultural Review (See the Great Goat Resources page for contact information) is a great place to find a farmer who can supply you with just the right hay for your little goaties and usually for a whole lot less money! You don’t have to buy a lot, most of these "fellow farmers" are happy to sell one or two or 20 or 30 bales.

Sharing the Wealth

You’ve composted, mulched and piled the barn berries, until you are pooped out of room. What to do? Call your County Extension Agent (look in the government pages in your phone book). He or she will let the master gardeners in your area know where they can go to strike "black gold". Unlike cow and horse manure, which can "burn" tender garden plants if not composted first, goat berries can be put right into the garden. Gardeners in suburban and urban areas are always in need of a reliable source of compost and they bring their own shovels!

Poisonous Plants

This is a list of common poisonous plants. It is by no means complete. Contact your agricultural extension agent for a list of plants known to be poisonous in your area.  Most well fed goats will not eat poisonous plants as most, but not all of them, taste bad. For example, I have horse nettle or nightshade growing in my pasture, but the goats won't touch it. A starving goat might! On the other hand most goats will eat azalea and rhododendron as they seem to taste good! But both are very toxic. Know your poisonous plants to protect your goats. The Cornell University Poisonous Plants Web Pages has pictures and photos of poisonous plants for easy identification.

Castor Bean (seed, leaves)
Caladium (all parts)
Christmas Rose (root, leaves, sap)
Diffenbachia (all parts)
Philodendron (all parts)
Mistletoe (berries)
Rosary Pea (seeds)
Autumn Crocus (all, esp. bulb)
Bleeding Heart (leaves, roots)
Dutchman's Breeches (leaves, roots)
Foxglove (leaves)
Larkspur (all; seeds)
Lily of the Valley (all)
Monkshood (all)
Narcissus (all)
Daffodil (all)
Jonquil (all)
Potatoes (all green parts)
Rhubarb (leaves)
Tomato (leaves)
Apple (large amount of seeds)
Apricot (seed)
Almond (seed)
Avocado (leaves)
Azalea (all)
Black Locust (bark, twigs, seeds)
Boxwood (leaves, twigs)
Buckeye (leaves, nuts, flowers, sprouts)
Horsechestnut (leaves, nuts, flowers, sprouts)
Chinaberry (fruit, bark, berries)
Chokecherry (leaves, seeds, bark)
Wild Black Cherry (leaves, seeds, bark)
English Holly (berries)
Oaks (tannins in foliage and acorns can be toxic in large quantity)
Oleander (all including dried leaves)
Privet (leaves, berries)
Rhododendron (all parts)
Yew (all, esp. berries)
Daphne (all; fruit)
English Ivy (berries, leaves)
Golden Chain (seeds, pods, flowers)
Lantana (green berries, leaves)
Mountain Laurel (all even honey is toxic)
Yellow Jasmine (all, including nectar and roots)
Wisteria (pods, seeds)
Buttercup (all)
Cone Flower (all)
Black-eyed Susan (all)
Hemlock (seeds, stems, fleshy taproot often mistaken for wild parsnip or anise)
Jack-in-the-pulpit (all)
Jimson Weed (all)
Amanita Mushrooms (all)
Nightshade (all)
American Bittersweet (berries, roots, leaves)
Deadly Nightshade (all)
Pokeweed (roots, shoots, leaves)
White Snakeroot (all parts)
Morning Glory (seeds)
Tobacco (leaves)
Tulip (bulbs)
Iris (corms)

  Email Maggie Leman with any news from around the farm or in the showring.