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For this
trip, I took about one month to travel from the west (
Xinjiang ) to
the east of China taking the route of the Silk Road and then to the southern part - Hong Kong. It
was a memorable trip because it was my first time travelling alone with
strangers and subsequently as a solo traveller.
My
route: Chenggu --> Urumqi --> Kashgar --> Yanqi --> Turpan
--> Dunhuang --> Jiayuguan --> Xian --> Beijing -->
Tianjin --> Shenzhen --> Hong Kong
13
May 2000 - Chengdu
Travelling to western China had been on my mind
for four years and after four months of planning, it was finally time to set
off. For all other trips, I had been going with people whom I knew. This time
round, I was going with strangers, people whom I had only met three times.
Took the cheapest air flight - China Southwest.
Reached Shuangliu airport in Chengdu and was being lured into taking a cab for
Y100 for the journey from the airport to Sam's guesthouse. Checked into a 3-bed
room for Y30/pax. Not a bad deal.
Went to explore the place. No time to waste since
we will be taking a domestic flight to Urumqi the next day. The city is a bit
crowded and the air is bad. Not particulary
fantastic though.
14
May 2000 - Urumqi
Took a domestic flight to
Urumqi. The flight
passed by Tibet and we could see the snow-capped mountain. Absolutely
breath-taking! Reached the airport and once again, the taxi-driver wanted us to
use his service but we learnt our lesson. We took a bus which took us to the
train station for Y8/pax. Scouted for a room and people on the streets
were just giving offers to us. It was really bothersome!
Went to John's cafe ( popular with backpackers as
they provide like services ) and check out some information on going Tianchi and
further westward. Their chips are well-known. Going Tianchi tomorrow.
15th & 16th May 2000
- Tianchi, Urumqi
 Went
early to Tianchi via the coach that we had signed up with. Upon reaching, the
Kahzah touts swarmed around us and asked us whether we would be staying
overnight. We tried to brush them away but one was persistent. He showed us
around and we finally decided to stay at his place for Y50 a night/pax.
The food that he offered us was kind of special for our taste bud. Goat's
milk ( weird ), vegetables, noodles and
their version of pancake were our meals. The night was really cold in the tent
and the three of us had to huddled under the blankets that they lent us...
Morning
had broken. We went for a horse ride to the Baoda Feng ( peak of God, 5445m )
Halfway through , we had to trek up since the terrain was a bit difficult for
horse ride. It took us the whole day to attempt the feat. But when we reached
base, the bus in which we were supposed to take had gone. The kahzahs suggested
that we stayed for another night but no thanks! I was getting infuriated with
them and in the end, I hitchhiked while my other two companions looked to other
alternatives since there were not many cars left. I reached John's cafe first
and waited for their return, worried too for their safety but thankfully, they
managed to get on a bus.
17th & 18th May 2000
- Train ride from Urumqi --> Kashgar
Got up early to purchase the train ticket to
Kashgar (near the border to Kazakhstan). At first this sounded scary to me but after the experience, it was
really easy. It was a good thing that we could converse in mandarin. It was so
good to be a bilingual.
Boarded the train. This ride will take us about
30 hours. It was almost a nightmare to the three of us.
Imagine yourself seating on a 90 degree seat without much padding and having the
sand blowing or should I say, hitting your face ( the train went through the
Gobi desert ). It was a good experience though, as you witnessed how the Chinese
rushed through the sardine-packed train just to get a seat, how they eat and
slept on the floor that was inhabited by the spitting of others.
And the toilet was oh, so amazing. I was actually referring to the sight. You
see the shit on it but because you cannot control your bowel for 30 hours, you
would have no choice but to do your business. The smell was pungent! Engaging
in conversations with the Chinese was interesting. We met all kinds of people
and we learnt so much from the conversation itself. It was indeed education
beyond the classroom.
Upon reaching Kashgar ( the next evening ), Yee Ling and I had the shock
of our lives as we witnessed a pickpocketing scene in the mini-bus that we were
taking. We were so afraid as I recalled the both of us grapping each other's hands.
Those guys, they worked as a gang in pickpocketing an old lady. I was totally at
a loss to what I should do. Thoughts raced through my mind. Should I stand up
and disclose their unrighteous act or should I just quietly endure? Sad to say,
I chose the latter. The three of us then became paranoid as we
devised of plans to
hide our money. Checked into a hotel for Y150 for 2 nights, 3 persons.
19th May 2000
-
Kashgar
Toured around the place.
Was fascinated by the happenings around me. Kashgar is populated by Muslims and
the Chinese. The segregation is obvious. You have the Chinese town and the
Muslim town alike. They don't really interact. We went to have a look at the Id
Gah mosque and you see men carrying mats into the holy place. What fascinated me
too was the fact that some Muslim women here covered themselves in black from
head to toe. Wonder how they can see things?
We met John, the owner of
John's cafe. Sought his help in purchasing the train tickets to our next
destination. The food here was nice, especially the Muslim's lamb with rice.
Nice gravy.
20th May 2000
-
Kashgar
Jack was down with diarrhoea.
Yee Ling and I decided to rent a bicycle each to tour round the place while Jack
retreated to rest. We went through a seemingly Pakistani- like town with the
sun's ray beating on our backs. It was really hard to imagine that these people
were under the Chinese rule. Makes one confused. We finally reached the Xiangfei
tomb ( Abakh Hoja Tomb ), the most significant spot in this place after
following the map ( did a lot of trial and error ). Nothing impressive.
21st May 2000
- Kashgar Sunday Market
The long awaited Sunday
was finally here! We were going to the popular Sunday bazaar! You can see
donkeys, horses and people jostling with one another. All kinds of things were
sold there. It was also crowded with people. What made it interesting for
me was that they are not Chinese but the minorities! So interesting....Went back to John's cafe to wait for the next
train to go to Yanqi. Jack was quite ill and he rented a room to rest while Yee
Ling and I went to buy some food to munch on the train.
22nd & 23rd May
2000 - Yanqi
Depart for Yanqi after we learnt that there is a
very famous lake called Boston lake there. When we reached there, we immediately
sent Jack to a hospital as it looked like his condition had turned for the
worse. The best hospital there was quite run-down but it was better than none.
After the doctor's diagnosis in which we found out that he had food poisoning
and had to stay in for a night, Yee Ling and I checked into a room. 
Went to Boston lake the next day and it was such
a letdown. The wind was so very strong and thus it was dangerous for us to go
out to the lake. Wasted trip.
We decided not to stay in this place for long
since there wasn't anything. Jack was well by the next day. Purchased a train
ticket to Turpan. Made some interaction with the Uighurs at the station.
24th & 25th May
2000 - Turpan
Turpan is indeed a hot city due to its low sea
level. The heat was searing and painful on the skin. Had meals along the
streets' food stalls and they were cheap and delicious. Checked with John's cafe
for their tour price. Went around and then a man approached us and asked us
whether we were Singaporeans. He had been hoping to meet us after hearing from
some hotel staff that some Singaporeans had been around this region. Spent the
evening relishing his moments in Pakistan. He will be backpacking to Tibet next.
The next day, we went on a tour around
Turpan.
There were about 5 spots. First, we went to Atsana grave and was so
disappointing that we decided not to pay for the rest of the entrance fees for
the next few spots. So, the adventurous three climbed through the walls to view
the ancient Gaochang ruins. Sometimes, when you get to the other side of the
law, it promises fun and excitement! Passed by the fiery mountain ( made famous
by the monkey god legend ) and went to the grape valley and once again we found
a route in without paying the fee!
26th May 2000
-
Dunhuang from Liuyuan
8o C outside when we reached Liuyuan at 4.30am.
Brrr!!!!You may think that there would be no transport at that hour but fear not, there were
a lot of taxis outside and each wanted business. We bargained and got a good
deal in the end. Checked into a hotel and went to John's cafe to assess my email. Good
news! Adeline will be going to Hong Kong after all and it meant that I had to
make the necessary arrangements to meet her there.
Went to Ming Sha Shan, a famous tourist spot. We
did not go in by the entrance as we wanted to sneak in again. But this time
round, we were found out and caught by the Gong An ( police ). He made us pay up
and that we report to him after we finished with the touring. I was already
feeling down with anxiety as it dawned upon me that what I had done was really
unethical though adventurous it may be. Anyway, we managed to sneak out of the
place safely without having to report to the police. Had a sumptuous dinner at
the night market - barbecue fish! Yum! Yum!
27th May 2000
- Dunhuang; Jiayuguan
Went to visit another tourist spot - Mo Gao
Gu.
In the evening, we left for Jiayuguan via the
sleeper train. It was an interesting ride as the bus contains bunks for you to
rest. But trust me, you won't get to catch a wink because it was really
uncomfortable. You can't sit up straight as you will be hitting your head if you
do so. The bus stopped for toilet breaks and we were not talking about proper
toilet. It proved to be a bit inconvenient for us ladies. For the men, they could just turn their backs
and do it in the open. For us ladies, we had to choose a nice spot like a small hill of
waste dumping to block our acts from the view of others. Nevertheless, it was
fun and I imagined for a moment that I was undergoing army life.
Reached Jiayuguan at
midnight and we were fortunate to find a place to stay.
28th May 2000
-
Jiayuguan 
Visited
Jiayuguan pass. Nothing impressive. But coincidentally, we recognized 3
Singaporeans backpackers by the local accent that they used. We were so excited
to meet our own people and we yakked and yakked. We decided then to go to the
overhanging great wall together. It was really a great climb of the steps. I
think I had caught a cold.
29th May 2000
-
Jiayuguan to Xian
The 3 Singaporeans went to an internet store and
checked their results ( they were final year student in NTU ) and on that day,
all three graduated! We then had lunch together before we went on our separate
ways. They were going westward while we were going towards the central.
30th May to 2nd June 2000
- Xian
In Xian, it seemed that civilization had returned because
for the first time, you had KFC, proper shopping centers and Giordano outlets.
It was a comfort for the three of us and for me, personally, a bonus as I saw my
lecturer and seniors there on a study trip.
Went to visit the Terracotta warriors and I was expecting to see the real thing.
It was good. Well worth the money. Went to the Emperor Qingshihuang's tomb and
some other places. It was rather educational and it was like having history
lesson.
I departed in Xian from the two of them for my solo trip to the eastern and
southern part of China. I looked back with sweet memories on the 3 weeks with
Yee Ling and Jack. To me, I felt that it was like an adventure similar to that
in Indiana Jones (excluding Harrison Ford, of course). I got to experience the
colourful culture and the hospitality of the people there. Our abil ity to speak
English, Mandarin, Japanese and the different Chinese dialects enabled us to
have different national identities. We had been thought of to be Chinese,
Korean, Japanese, Hong Konger, Taiwanese and even the British due to our spoken
language and the way we dressed. It was really zany as we disguised ourselves
with all nationalities but Singaporean. This trip was indeed an eye-opening
experience for me and I believe the two of them would agree with me. Well, I
guess in the end, I could say without regrets that I enjoyed myself with
strangers!
3rd
to 12th June 2000 - Beijing
9th to 10th June 2000
- Tianjin
13th June 2000
- Shenzhen
14th to 16th June 2000
- Hong Kong
After departing from my
two companions ( they are heading home ), I boarded an overnight train to
Beijing. Cash was running out and thus I could not afford to have a bunk.
Instead I spent the night in the train seat. Ouch! Poor back!
Beijing has not changed a lot since 3
years ago when I was there for industrial attachment. Since I was familiar with
this city, I was able to travel around with the map. it is indeed a blessing to
be able to speak mandarin. Some thought that I was a local.
Since I had been to Beijing
before, my main purpose thus defer from that of the normal tourist. I visited my
friend who is studying here in the uni and got to savour a lot of local
delicacies, including those dishes of the minorities. At the same time, I was
able to visit another friend and also attend the Church services with the
International Fellowship.
After one week in Beijing and Tianjin, I made my way down to Shenzhen to cross
the border to Hong Kong.
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