This webpage was created by me, David Kadouri, to give those who need visual aid to "tear-down" (take apart) and pretty much re-assemble their Kingman Spyder Markers. I took all of these pictures myself with my camera, and hopefully they, along with the text descriptions on the side, will give you a really clear view on taking apart the marker. The marker here is my very own TL+, and it is rear-cocking. This is similar to the X-tra and Shutter, but will give you the main idea for taking apart any Kingman Spyder marker.
Before we begin, remember... KEEP ALL SCREWS, LOOSE PIECES, ETC... ORGANIZED!
These are the tools that you will need for the removal
of all parts (you will need a small allen wrench to remove the hose fittings).
-soft long rod for pushing out valve (some people use wooden cooking spoons) i think anything is safe as long as it isn't metal
-one metric set of allen keys
-one standard (imperial) set of allen keys
Alright, You need to get your marker out of course. Here is the full gun, with everything on it, but hopper, but of course you wont have that on! I will take off the regulator, barrel, hose and fittings, and dropforward prior to "tear-down". This is what i prefer, but just for reference to what was where, here is the full gun.
Before you take it apart, i strongly suggest taking off any attachments. This may require the philips, and the allen keys , but is not very difficult. Here is the marker with no attachments. I have removed the regulator, barrel, dropforward, hose, and its fittings. You could do the dissasembly with these on, but it would be harder to, for gripping the marker hoding the marker, and fitting in your tools.
1. This is how we get it all started. We take out the "quickstrip" pin, it is located in the sight rail and what you do it simply just pull it out. Notice how my hand it firmly pushing in the velocity adjuster, this is because there is a spring in there, and it is under pressure. If you do not hold it in, it will shoot out at you, and you can lose small parts. so just put your hand there and pull the pin.
2. In this picture, i am pulling out the velocity adjuster and the spring. Inside the spring should be pin, this is our pin guide. take them out as a whole and let them rest together somewhere on the counter, you will not need these again until re-assembly.
3. The silver thing is the bolt, that black thing in my hand is the piece that is held in by the spring, it is called the striker because it is set off by something in the trigger frame, and causes the ball to fire. The bolt and Striker are attached when they are inside the gun. Before the striker there should be a little rubber O, this helps guide the spring into the striker, and be careful not to lose this. This and the next step are as far as quick- stripping will take us, now we have to take out the allen keys (again)
4. This is a picture of the removed bolt (yeah, i know there are no o-rings on it). This is easily removed with the striker all you have to do is pull it out, it is really just a loose piece after the striker has been removed. If you look at the lower section of the bolt you will notice that little pin sticking out of the bolt, this is where the striker and bolt connect. the bolt is one solid piece no parts, other than o-rings, can be removed. (and the venturi insert screwed out- but that's a whole different story!).
5. This step is pretty simple. Get out your metric allen keys, and find one that fits this screw, it is in front of your trigger frame, and behind your vetical adapter (VA). It actually holds in the VA. Without the shroud there, this piece would fly off, so if you dont have a shroud, then i suggest that you hold the Low Pessure Chamber, or any part of the VA to hold it in.
6. Now that we have the screw out, the only thing that is holding the vertical adapter on there, is our barrel shroud. to get this off, there are two little allen key (standard) screws that need to be taken off. Here is me taking one off. This is just in order to be able to fully take off the vertical adapter.
7. This is the removed Vertical Adapter, with all of it's components. Just stimply pull it out of the body once you have removed shroud and the screw. In there should be, a pin, cupseal, spring, weird star shaped spacer, and the actual VA. This takes us to our next step, taking out the next piece.
8. This is the trigger frame removed from the body of the gun. This is a must in the next step. To take it off, you must use the same allen key you used to take out the VA screw, and take out two on the trigger frame. there should be one on the front, and one on the back. This is fairly simple, and again, remember to keep all of the screws and pieces organzied!
9. This is where you need to use your flathead screwdriver. You must take out that little golden screw in there, in order to push out the valve. This is one of the easiest screws to get out, and all it takes is a few twists. It is under the trigger frame, so trigger frame must be removed for this!
10. All of these removed screws have been leading up to this one moment, the chance to get out our valve! to do this, get out your long narrow thing, i used some rubber thing i found in my kitchen, works like a charm, many people just use a wooden cooking spoon, but they can all go to hell! This works well for me. To get it out, you just simply put it in via. the rear (where the velocity adjuster and striker were, and push the valve out, but dont let the valve hit the floor, it is precious!
11. This is simply the removed valve. Keep it well oiled, and you should not have problems during game time! this is just a picture to illustrate the last step. You are done, now just re-assemble.
That is the whole teardown, from the bolt to the valve, that is all you really need to check on o-rings, leaks, and to oil up your gun! now i know what you are thinking... "How do i get this thing back together?"... Well to re-assemble the thing, all you do is reverse this order! it's that simple! the only main thing to remember when re-assembling, is to have your valve so that the air holes line up with the air holes in the bolt! just look at the thing, and you should know how to get it back together! For clarification on this, look at the close-up of the valve, you see how there are those two air holes, make sure that those are pointing upward, and it slides in the same way as your bolt, and that should align it right. the valve always goes in from the front, and to get it locked in there, simply just push it in (but be gentle) Hope i helped, and have fun!