Are
you feeling like a lucky diner? Pine Yard, a "poker"
Chinese restaurant in Evanston is the solution. What I mean
by "poker" is that there are some great dishes
in this suburban Mandarin and Szechwan restaurant, but there
are many poor dishes as well. If the customer is neither
informed nor a regular, ordering is a big gamble; there
are a few good dishes in a moderately large menu. Unfortunately,
most of the time customers end up with the "losing
hand", paying high-end prices for average-grade Chinese
food, all the while enduring the below-average service (at
peak hours, 5-8 on the weekends).
However, there are some excellent dishes here that regulars
keep coming back for. Available only at dinner, the Mandarin
Sizzling Rice soup ($6.25) is an excellent starter.
Various vegetables and either chicken or shrimp is served
in a chicken stock tableside, where the waitress adds fried
rice cakes into the soup; the rice enhances the soup's texture
and flavor, and of course adds the signature sizzling sound
effect.
Another must-have dish only available at dinner is the Mu
Shu Pork ($10.75 an order, four pancakes to an order).
This is Pine Yard's one best dish; I've seen parties of
people come in the restaurant only ordering different kinds
of Mu Shu. Thinly sliced pork with vegetables and egg are
all stir-fried, then wrapped in a homemade pancake with
Chinese plum sauce (hoisin sauce). There are other variants
of the Mu Shu dish if pork is a dietary problem; beef, chicken,
and vegetable Mu Shu are all wonderful too.
Available at both lunch and dinner, the Szechwan Spicy
Three Delicacies ($10.95 at dinner) is a definite favorite
for many. Diced chicken, beef, and shrimp are served stir-fried
with broccoli and red peppers. This dish has simple ingredients
and a delicate sauce, yielding a light and delicious entree.
Requests for a non-spicy version of this dish are accepted.
Mongolian Beef is easily a member of the staple Mandarin
cuisine, but sadly more often than not consists of low-grade
beef whose rancid taste is simply obliterated by a disgusting,
heavy oyster-sauce concoction. Thankfully, at Pine Yard,
the Mongolian Beef ($9.95 at dinner) is one of their best
dishes. Beef and scallions are stir-fried in a light oil
sauce, and are served over a bed of crispy rice noodles.
Although the prices are a little steep, by sticking to these
four dishes there really is no gamble or risk of playing
a game of "poker" with your food. I've been a
regular at this restaurant for years. Although many of the
dishes have changed in quality and price, these dishes are
consistently great; they're like four diamonds in the rough.
Even if you've paid Pine Yard a visit in the past, give
it another shot with an informed slant. You won't be disappointed.
The décor is average. It's above average for being
a Chinese restaurant, though. A glass window separates the
kitchen from the dining area, which provides a nice view
of the chefs preparing various dishes.
Open:
Lunch Monday-Saturday, 11:30AM to 2:30PM
Dinner Sunday-Thursday, 4:30PM to 9:30PM
Dinner served Fridays-Saturdays from 4:30PM - 10:00PM
Entree prices: $8-$20
Amenities: Chefs can accommodate low-salt, low-fat,
vegetarian and no-MSG diets.
Reservations: Not accepted for parties of one to
five, required of parties of six or more.
Carry Out: Soup and tea are not included with carry
out lunch specials.
Leftovers: Very tasty. Food retains flavor even when
reheated.