Play Station 2 Repair Guide
If You Did Not Receive This Guide From
Please read the following
disclaimer VERY CAREFULLY and do not proceed unless you think
you are capable of these repairs.
- Caution! If you have any
warranty left, always claim a warranty repair instead of doing any
work yourself. If you open your PS2, you will break the warranty
seal and the warranty will be VOID!
Disclaimer: This guide is
NOT GUARANTEED to fix your PS2 as faulty parts do occur.
However, in many instances this guide will allow you to restore your
PS2 to its former glory. BE WARNED though, improper use of
this guide can render your PS2 virtually useless, or at best,
destroy more voltage critical components. Proceed at your own risk.
I take no responsibility for damage caused by improper use or
accidental damage to any parts of your PS2 while you have it
Also please note that
lethal voltages of 110/230 V will be present on the board when it is
powered up so please remove power from the machine BEFORE
opening it. Take care not to touch any live parts of the board.
Preferably, touch nothing, which you are not specifically told to
touch and, even then, only for as short a time as possible handle
the boards very carefully, and by the corners of the board only, to
avoid chance of damage to the delicate components.
Lastly but by no means
least, static electricity can damage various parts of the board.
Please ground yourself (by touching an earthed metal point such as a
water pipe) at regular intervals to prevent electrostatic discharge
(ESD) from building up in your body and damaging the board.
Alternatively; invest a few pounds in an electrostatic wristband to
keep you earthed throughout the whole procedure.
note: Laser Radiation from CD
players CAN blind you. Under no circumstances, should you look
directly into the laser eye, even if the power is not on, just in
This is the easiest thing you
can do in any attempt to fix your PS2. While it hardly ever works, it
only takes a minute or two, and should be done first before you take
apart your machine.
1) You must be in the "main
menu" screen of the PS2 console, the first screen that comes up when
2) Press the "triangle
3) Select "Console" from the
top using the up directional buttons and press the "Triangle" button
4) Select "On" using the up
and down directional buttons and press the "X" button
5) Insert a disc. The console
automatically starts the diagnosis.
TO TELL THE VERSION NUMBER OF A PS2
10 Screws at base of PS2
Version 1, 2 and 3
USA SCPH 30001
Version 1 = Serial Number begins with U1
USA SCPH 30001
Version 2 = Serial Number begins with U0
USA SCPH 30001
Version 3 = Serial Number begins with U1 Date Code 1A
SCPH 30001 Version 3 = Serial Number begins with U2 Date Code
8 Screws at base of PS2 Version 4, 5 and Electrical
warning stamped on the bottom.
USA SCPH 30001 Version 4 =
Serial Number begins with U0
USA SCPH 30001 Version 4 =
Serial Number begins with U1
USA SCPH 30001 Version 4 =
Serial Number begins with U2
USA SCPH 30001 Version 4 =
Serial Number begins with U3
USA SCPH 30001 Version 4 =
Serial Number begins with U4
USA SCPH 30001 Version 4 =
Serial Number begins with U5
USA SCPH 35001 Version 4 = GT3
3900X PS2 (39001, 39002 ...) - New Version 7
All the PS2 model SCPH
3900X is the New Version 7 PS2 where X can be any number like 1, 2, 3
Example: SCPH 39001 is the USA Version 7 PS2; SCPH 39002 is
the Australian PS2 Version 7
NOTE: The 30001R can be
Version 4, Version 5 or Version 6. You check the Expansion Bay of your
PS2 and see if there is a screw in the Expansion Bay. If there is
a screw in the Expansion Bay similar to the one indicated by
the Red Arrow in the following picture, then your PS2 is Version 5 or
Version 6. Otherwise, it Version 4.
To further identify whether
you have a Version 5 or Version 6 PS2, you have to open up your PS2
and check the main board of your PS2. The difference between
Version 5 and Version 6 PS2 30001R model is shown in the
The only way to identify the
BIOS number of your PS2 is to open up your PS2 machine and have a look
at the motherboard; there will be a black chip with writing like
the example below. In this case, the BIOS number is
To identify the Date Code of
your PS2, you only have to read the label in the back of your PS2 and
refer to the picture below:
POWER SUPPLY REPAIRS
A very common
failure, which seems to crop up on some of the earlier PS2 models, is
where the power supply fails for whatever reason. When switched on
there is no life and often, the internal fuses (or sometimes the fuse
in the power lead) blow.
Very often, the
fault lies with a very simple component on the power board. The usual
component is a diode, of which there are four similar ones. Often
though, the same diode fails each time. This is the third of the
largish diodes, arrowed in the following picture.
Be very careful when
working on the power board as it contains dangerously high voltages
even when not connected to the mains. This is because capacitors can
remain charged for some number of hours or days. Take all normal
precautions before working in this area. In addition, handle the board
as little as possible
Check the diodes
with a continuity meter. If it shorts then it has blown and should be
replaced with a 1 Amp diode. You should also test the two board fuses
for continuity as one (or both) of these can be blown by the over
current. You may also have to replace the main fuse in the power lead
as this can go at the same time.
DISK READ ERRORS
When you get the dreaded Disk
Read Error, it normally occurs for one of two reasons. Either dust has
built up on the lens of the laser mechanism, or the operating voltage
of the laser has drifted off slightly due to heat and age. Of course,
occasionally there are actual failures of components, which cause
this, but these are the main two reasons.
Tools required by this guide
are (not all are required for all parts however):
normal sizes star (Phillips) screwdriver.
very small Phillips screwdriver.
small, flat screwdriver.
Isopropanol alcohol (IPA)
little mechanical grease. (Iíve used Vaseline before)
of compressed air.
THE LASER LENS
any CDs from the unit and unplug all leads and memory cards.
the unit upside down and use the small, flat screwdriver to pop out
all the little plastic
and rubber screw
your normal sized Phillips screwdriver and unscrew all the
3) Try to write
down where each part comes from (including the screws as they have to
be returned to the
same location at the
end. Stick them in a tub to keep them safe.
4) Turn the unit
back up the right way, holding it all together. Place on the work
surface and gently ease
the case open. You may
have to tilt the lid slightly towards the front, and slide out to
avoid the CD tray.
CAREFUL not to damage the eject/power button ribbon cable, as these
are very fragile.
5) Remove the 4
tiny screws from the CD drawer top, being very careful not to cause
6) Gently lift
off the lens casing and you will see the slide tray underneath.
7) To remove
the slide tray you have to remove the two small screws, which are
located the left hand side
of the tray.
8) Gently pull
the tray away from the rest of the unit by carefully sliding it all
the way to the front until it
has cleared the lip on
the right of the tray. Look for any damage or wear, as this could be a
unit malfunctioning. If you have compressed air give a few little
squirts to any places, where you
see dust, but you must
be careful not to damage the laser lens.
9) Take a cotton
bud and careful place some of the alcohol on it (but not so much that
it is dripping
everywhere). This alcohol is the same (or similar) to the small bottle
of alcohol which is in audio and
video cassette cleaning
kits. This is probably the best way to locate a source. Locate the
lens (the circular
and very gently rub the cotton bud around the lens in circular motions
for about 30 seconds,
gentle. Once done, flip the cotton bud over and dry the lens with the
other end for about
10) The laser
part slides on rods to reach different rings of the CD. These can
become clogged up with dirt
and dust, making
movement difficult. So, take a clean cotton bud and clean the slide
making sure you get to
all parts and give a good clean.
11) The spin rod
controls the movement of the laser and is greased to allow smooth
Clean the surface of
the spin rod. If you have some grease to replace with then remove all
grease (or as much as
you can) and then apply some fresh grease. If you have no grease to
then just remove any
excess dirt but try to leave a little grease, as it is required for
the mechanism to
12) Clean the
little cogs too so that all possible avenues are covered.
13) You have now
completed the cleaning process. This often cures read errors and
should always be
Reverse the dismantling process and put the machine back together,
making sure you
DONíT TRAP the eject / power
button ribbon cable, as this can cause serious problems for you if
14) Power on the
unit and try to load both a CD and a DVD game. If all works fine then
the guide successfully. If however there is no change then you should
proceed to the
next step - Adjusting
the Disk Mechanism.
THE DISC MECHANISM
Follow steps 1-6 above again
to get the PS2 unit dismantled
After the cover
is off the disk tray, you will need to plug the unit back in, (The
unit needs to be hooked up to a TV as well to test it while you have
it open. You should have a DVD movie, a game disk with a silver or
gold back and one with a purple back in order to fine-tune the system
to play all three). It will be necessary to have the unit powered up
to perform the repair. Press the eject button so that the tray slides
forward exposing the undercarriage. At the back of the unit, you
should see a small white, geared wheel about the size of a quarter.
This little wheel can cause many of your problems.
changes the angle in which the disk is held. You will notice that
there is a small metal tab, which is holding the wheel in place. Take
a permanent pen and mark the point on the wheel that meets the tab.
That way you will always know the original position that the wheel was
in. Now that the original position has been marked, feel free to spin
the wheel for a few full rotations in order to see how it changes the
angle. It will only alter the angle a few degrees before it goes back
to zero, after it reaches the maximum angle it will go back to flat
after each full rotation. Once you have played with it to see how it
works, put the wheel back to the original position that you have
marked. Then advance the wheel about 1/8 of a turn and place the disk
tray cover back on top of the disk tray. (You will not need to screw
the tray cover back down in order to test the machine; you will only
need to hold down the cover with your fingers while trying to
load/test a disk).
Now place a DVD
in the tray and press the eject/close button in order to close the
tray and load the DVD (hold down the cover as explained above). Wait
to see if the DVD loads, you may have to use the browser in order to
load each disk you test. If the DVD loads, eject it and load a silver
backed disk, if that loads try a purple backed disk. If all three
loaded successfully, congratulations you are finished. If not, remove
the tray cover, eject the disk and advance the wheel another 1/8 turn
and repeat the process. It just a matter of finding an angle that will
facilitate the operation of all three types of disks. Once you have
found the proper angle and the system is operating to its full
potential, put it back together and start playing games again. I also
do not recommend placing the PS2 on its side once you have fixed it.
Although Sony says, they recommend it in the owner manual, there have
since seen internal Sony documents retracting the statement and
attributing many malfunctions to storing and operating the unit on its
side. Keep it flat at all times!!
If your unit is
still not working then you will have to adjust the laser voltage. This
stage is the most deadly to the PS2 laser if not done correctly. If
you are not confident in your repair abilities then please donít
proceed with this as you may end up making matters
Read these instructions
all the way through, and make sure you understand all the steps before
Remove the metal shield covering the circuit board (the shiny
one). With the front of the PS2 facing toward
it is on the right. There is only one screw holding it in place, it
has an arrow pointing toward it.
Remove the expansion bay plate (the dull one with holes). With the
front of the PS2 facing toward you, it
be on your left. There is only one screw holding it in place with an
arrow pointing toward it.
out the expansion bay housing. It is attached to the circuit board by
a short ribbon cable. Under this
the laser control screws.
The laser control screws are on a small amber circuit board
slightly recessed in the plastic case. You will
be adjusting one or both of the two small silver screws with a black
screw in between them. With the
front of the PS2 facing you, the silver screw on the LEFT controls the
voltage for the CD reading. The
silver screw on the RIGHT controls the voltage for the DVD reading. I
suggest putting a small dot, with a
permanent pen, in the 12 o'clock position of each screw to help with
the adjusting process...
Stand the PS2 on its side (vertically, memory cards at bottom, power
button at top) at a slight angle.
You will not be able to stand it at this angle unless it is done on
carpet floor. Having a friend hold it in
position might be better. Make sure that the expansion bay housing
does not come in contact with the
circuit board, as you will be turning it on, and you donít want the
metal housing to short out the board.
Let it hang down, away from the board.
the PS2 plugged in (power and video) turn it on. You are ready to
adjust the voltage for the laser.
adjust the screw for the type of disc you are having problems with. If
you are having problems with
both, do them one at a time. Remember, now that the unit is on its
side the CD voltage control screw is
above the DVD control screw.
If at all
possible use a non-metallic screwdriver, as static electricity can
ruin this portion of your PS2...
Turning the screw clockwise increases the voltage, counter-clockwise
decreases the voltage.
Because you risk of blowing the laser if you give it too much voltage,
always start by
decreasing voltage. In
my experience, you generally have to add voltage, but for safety, I
reduce voltage first. Using a small screw-driver (non-magnetic &
non-metallic if possible) turn the
appropriate screw counter-clockwise two degrees. Load in the CD and
wait, if you still get a disc read
error move the screw another two degrees. Repeat the
If you still get
disc read errors after about 20 degrees of rotation, put the screw
back to the 12 o'clock position and start moving the screw clockwise
two degrees at a time.
It may take a while,
but you will most likely find the sweet spot where your discs begin to
read again. I have personally never had to move the screw more than 30
degrees, although I have heard as much as 180 degrees are needed for a
modified PS2 to play backup CDR's.
a few different trouble discs before re-assembly to make sure you
donít need more fine adjustment.
well, hold the PS2 elevated in the horizontal position and make sure
it reads while in this position. I
found that slightly more voltage (2-6 degrees) is needed to run discs
in the horizontal position than
off the PS2 and re-assemble it. If this has worked then you should
keep it in either horizontal
position from now on, contrary to what Sony tells you. If not then
your last try is to get hold of an
oscilloscope (you can buy one off eBay for £10-15).
CALIBRATION USING AN OSCILLOSCOPE
Most laser calibration
guides, like the previous one, for the PS2 are all about adjusting the
laser potentiometers "blindly" or using a multi meter to measure the
resistance of the potentiometers. However, the reason you use variable
potentiometers is that every PS2 need individual adjustment, so you
cannot just use one reference value. What you need is an oscilloscope
and/or a laser power meter to measure what is going on when you turn
the pots. It is always best to measure on a brand new well working PS2
to get some reference values to use when you are calibrating a bad
If you have a laser power
meter, you just have to put the photo-detector directly above the
laser lens and look at the readout. If you are using an oscilloscope,
you have to know where to find the RF/Eye Pattern measure
Laser potentiometers on the
PS2 locations are as follows:
This is a picture from the
underside of the PS2 Laser. The pots are marked on the picture. Turn
clockwise to increase power and counter clockwise to decrease power.
Do not turn these wildly, or you might kill your laser by using too
much power, or just be unable to get back to a working setting. Now,
get your scope and connect it to the proper test point. You also need
to find a good ground connection, if you do not know how you should
not be reading this any further. Even if we have not scanned your
exact PS2 model, you should be able to find the test point as your
board is probably very similar to one of the following
PS2 SCPH-30004 "v3"
PS2 SCPH-30004 "v4"
PS2 SCPH-30004R "v5"
Adjust your oscilloscope and
start measuring on the signal point for your board.
Set the scope at 20mV and
0.2us Sweep. The scope must be at least 20Mhz. When you connect the
scope, you should se a clear "eye pattern" signal, like the one above.
When you increase laser power, the amplitude (height) of the pattern
will increase. Do not adjust to high, or the pattern will "clip" at
the top and bottom. You will have to test with several different
discs/media as all media have different reflectivity. Therefore, if
you calibrate the laser so it will be just below clipping with cd-r
media, it might "clip" when using originals. We recommend you take
readings from a brand new PS2 to get reference levels. Normal values
are 800mV peak to peak with DVD media and 640mV peak to peak with CD
Correct signal, nice round
curves at the top and bottom
Clipped signal at the top and
bottom of the pattern
AND SQUEAKING EXPLAINED
Clicking is most
likely the laser unit moving back and forth trying to access a piece
of data. If it cannot find that data it will move back and forth until
it does. In the case of a DRE, since the PS2 never finds that data it
will continue clicking until you receive the error. In case clicking
is loud, or you hear squeaking, it might be a good idea to clean the
slide rods that the laser rides on, and then add some oil or grease.
Loud clicking can be the result of warped discs in the drive, check to
see if your disc is warped if you get loud clicking.
PLAYSTATION 2 FAULT FINDER
not play any discs at all, just get 'Disc read error'
Problem: If no mod chip
installation has been attempted then as above. If someone has
attempted to fit a mod chip then check for damaged components, tracks
and stray solder or component pins being shorted by excess solder.
Remove excess solder with some solder wick.
draw will not open
Problem: Could be a few
reasons for this. If it's been dropped, the cogs could be misaligned,
you will need to take the CD unit apart and reassemble correctly. If
someone has attempted to fit a mod chip there could be damage around
the part of the board where the wires for pins 5 & 6 are soldered.
Check for damage to tracks and excess solder, it is also possible that
the BA8510 or BA8515 chip has been damaged. Also it could be the flat
flexible cable that connects the power/reset & eject buttons to
the main board. Check for physical damage and replace if need
is no power
Problem: Either power
supply problem or blown surface mount fuse on the main board. First
check all SMD fuses on the main board, and the fuse on the power
supply board. If the power supply board fuse has blown replace it and
try again, if it blows again you need to replace the power supply. If
the power supply seems OK check all SMD fuses on the main board. There
are 7 on the V3 and about a dozen on the V4 / V5 / V6.
Symptom: I just
get a black screen
Problem: Either a blown
surface-mount fuse or damage done trying to install a mod-chip. Damage
will be around the BIOS solder points. Check for excess solder, clean
up with our de-solder wick. Also check for damaged tracks. If it's not
due to a mod check all SMD fuses with a multi meter or continuity
tester. They should conduct and have a resistance of zero. If this is
not the case then replace with fuse of same or similar
Joy pad (s) don't work
Problem: This is most
likely not a problem with the actual ports but another blown surface
mount fuse on the main board or damaged flat flexible cable. Check the
cable for physical damage. Replace with our replacement joy pad /
memory card port cable from our on-line store. If the cable checks out
OK check the SMD fuses with a multi meter or continuity tester. They
should conduct and have a resistance of zero. If this is not the case
then replace with fuse of same or similar value. If the joy pad port
is damage, a replacement will have to be purchased online.