Go to page 1...Rim construction, glue-up and forming basic rim.
Go to Page 2...preliminary mounting of the head.
Go to Page 3...Making the neck.
Go to Page 4...Making the neck, continued.
Go to Page 5...Installing frets.
Go to Page 6...Bringing it all together.
Go to Page 7...Outer rim band and miscellaneous details.
This is Page 8...Finishing and final assembly.
Go to Page 9...Basic banjo drawings and notes.
After disassembly, prepare the neck for finishing first.
Fill the gaps where the fret tang doesn't reach the bottom of the slot by mixing a little fine sanding
dust with a few drops of Titebond until a putty-like consistancy is achieved.
Press a small amount in each gap and let it dry overnight. Sand this level with the fretboard edge.
Next sand the entire instrument completely starting with 100 grit and proceeding through
150, 220, and 320 grit sandpaper. Sand at each stage until scratch marks from the previous stage
can no longer be seen. When you are satisfied with the sanding stage, proceed to finishing.
I made a "handle" with a screw eye in one end and a double-ended lag bolt in the other end. This makes
it easy to apply finish and then hang up in an out of the way spot for drying.
For a first instrument I would recommend a very simple finish. One which I find to be particularly easy
is Tru-oil gun stock finish, available from your local Wal-mart or gun shop. Wipe on 3 or 4 coats
following directions on the bottle. This produces a really nice gloss finish and is very durable.
After applying finish to neck, rim, and outer rim band, set them aside for a few days to allow the
final finish to dry completely. Go over the parts lightly with 0000 steel wool and follow with a
fine cut cleaner such as Meguiar's #2 (available at auto supply stores). Now we're ready for final assembly.
Gather all the parts in one convenient location and arrange them in the proper order of assembly.
This view shows the 12 allen head screws used to tension the head inserted into their associated tee nuts.
MAKE SURE ALL THE ALLEN HEADS FACE INTO THE RIM!
You don't want to dissassemble the pot when you realize one of the screws is facing the wrong direction.
Flip the rim over and bring them down flush with the top of the tee nuts using the 3/32" allen wrench.
Place the tone ring / tension hoop over the rim, positioning the joint under the tailpiece area.
Invert the rim assembly and place on top of the head.
Orient the rim in its proper location and fasten all the head tabs in their proper location.
Start with the two tabs on either side of the tailpiece and proceed around the rim.
Make any adjustment to the location of the reinforcing hoop before tightening the screws.
The ends of the hoop should protrude an equal amount beyond the two tabs closest to the neck.
Tighten all head mounting bolts.
A 3/16" hole is drilled 1/4" deep where the dowel rod bracket screw tightens against the rim.
The hole is countersunk slightly and a #10 copper rivet is inserted for the allen screw to bear against.
Install the tuners using a little wax on the small screws.
Snug them down gently and do not over-tighten!
Here is a view showing the dowel stick bracket in action.
When the allen screw is tightened, the bracket acts as a lever which bears against
the dowel rod cross pin and draws the heel of the neck tightly to the rim.
View shows outer rim band, fretboard scoop, and peghead profile.
Due to the shortened length of the fifth string tuner the top protrudes only slightly above the
surface of the fretboard.
No more hardware poking you in the leg...
View shows the 1/4" access holes where 3/32" long arm allen wrench is inserted to tension the head.
Also notice the ever-present rag between the dowel stick and the head to dampen excessive overtones.
Having completed this instrument, I'll say that all in all it turned out really well.
I like it's spartan look, and the sound is quite nice...well-rounded, not harsh,
but is not as loud as some open-backs I've heard. But then, it's not a tubaphone, either.
Initially I designed it to be converted to a more conventional design at a later date. I found this design so pleasing to me that I wouldn't think of changing it. That said, I would use 16 tensioning points instead of 12 on the rim to provide a more uniform wrap over the tone ring / tension hoop. This could be accomplished by providing a 3" center between head retaining bolts at the neck area and spacing the other centers at a uniform 2.1" on center.
The other modification would be to use a few more outer rim band attachment bolts...six do fine,
but eight would be a little more solid.
You may want to adapt these modifications from the beginning.