Here a dowel rod bracket is cut from a 3/8" by 1-1/2" brass bar stock. The brass cuts easily, and the
shape is refined further on the belt sander. After initial sanding, drill with a #25 drill bit and tap
with a #10X24 tap to receive the allen head screw.
File a 3/16" half-round slot at appoximately the middle of the slot to
receive the cross-pin. The bracket is then progressively polished with 100, 150, 220, and 320 sandpaper.
A final buffing with 0000 steel wool and a coat or two of clear spray completes finishing.
Dowel rod bracket complete
The finished bracket waiting to be used to fasten the neck and the rim together.
Attaching the neck to the rim
Prior to drilling the dowel stick for the correct bracket cross-pin location the dowel stick must first
be trimmed to it's final length.
Do this by test-fitting the neck to the rim and trimming the dowel stick length until the heel
seats against the rim correctly.
The bracket is positioned over the dowel rod and the location for the 3/16" cross-pin is marked. The neck is
removed, the hole drilled, and the neck re-inserted into the rim assembly. The bracket is placed in position, the
cross-pin is inserted, and the allen head bolt is tightened against the rim. A #10 copper rivet will
be added to the rim for the screw to bear against when the instrument is ready for final assembly.
Tailpiece / Tuners
Here is a view of the tailpiece fastened temporarily to the rim to check fit. A piece of 3/4" dowel has
been recessed into the rim under the rear bracket location by drilling 1/4" deep with a 3/4" forstner bit.. This
covers the 1/2" hole that was necessary to insert the long-shank 3/4" paddle bit used when drilling
the dowel hole in the neck heel. The dowel stick covers the hole on the rim's inside surface.
Install the tuners in the peghead and fifth string positions. Pre-drill the holes for the tuner screws
with a 1/16" drill bit and wax the screws lightly before installing them. Don't over-tighten!
Easy stringing
Here's something for all your stringing needs. It's easy, fast, and won't slip. Use it as is for the
5th string tuner also, but cut the end short and bend down or you'll be sorry! Try to leave enough slack
in the string length for string to wrap at least one turn around post while tightening. Use diagram as
shown for bass side of normal guitar (Etc.) headstock, use a mirror image for the treble side.
Banjo "in the white"
Position the bridge on the head close to the correct location.
This will be approximately 25-1/2" from the face of the nut.
Bring the strings up to pitch slowly and check for proper alignment of the strings in relation to the fretboard.
There should be an equal amount of fretboard to each side of the two outer strings and about 3/16" clearance
under the strings to the last fret. If the side to side clearance is off, a small amount of material
may need to be carefully removed from one side of the heel. Study the physics involved to make corrections
in the proper direction. You can do it...it ain't rocket science. Adjust the string height by changing
the height of the bridge. Obtain 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" tall when ordering. The cost is minimal at about 3 bucks each.
After you're happy with the string geometry, adjust the intonation as follows:
Create a harmonic by LIGHTLY touching the string at the 12th fret and plucking to produce a note.
Fret the same string at the same fret and pluck the note...compare the two pitches produced.
If the fretted note is higher, slide the bridge slightly towards the tailpiece and repeat the process.
If the fretted note is lower, slide the bridge slightly towards the fingerboard and repeat the process.
Repeat on first and fourth strings until the harmonic and fretted notes are as close as possible in pitch.
This is somewhat of an aqquired skill, as the banjo produces lots of overtones to confuse the human ear.
Just keep at it until you are satisfied.
Now is the chance to correct anything you don't like. You could actually stop here and proceed with disassembly
and finishing, but bear with me a little longer and add the outer rim band. This really caps this project.
Here a dowel rod bracket is cut from a 3/8" by 1-1/2" brass bar stock. The brass cuts easily, and the
shape is refined further on the belt sander. After initial sanding, drill with a #25 drill bit and tap
with a #10X24 tap to receive the allen head screw.
File a 3/16" half-round slot at appoximately the middle of the slot to
receive the cross-pin. The bracket is then progressively polished with 100, 150, 220, and 320 sandpaper.
A final buffing with 0000 steel wool and a coat or two of clear spray completes finishing.
