Cut a piece of .015 Mylar material in a 18" circle to form the head. This material is available from art supply
stores in bulk form, or better yet, obtain it from an old kick drum head removed when a drummer changes heads.
Check your local music shop or drummer's shop if you are lucky enough to have one in your area. I splurged
and purchased a new head to use, because I really like the looks of the Fibreskin mylar heads made to
resemble real hide. Warning...this option will set you back about twenty bucks!
Head pattern after cutting away excess
Excess material was removed from between the tabs. Clamp the rim lightly against the head material and apply
heat at the base of the tab where it contacts the tension/tone hoop. As soon as it becomes pliable bend it up
against the rim and hold it in place. Shine a flashlight through the rim mounting hole and drill a 3/16" hole
through the tab. Insert a #10X24 bolt with flat washer through the hole and snug it against the tab.
Continue around the rim until all tabs are fastened in place.
Head attached before addition of tab reinforcement
Top view after all tabs have been fastened to the rim. A reinforcing hoop will now be added below the screws
to prevent the tabs from being pulled loose when tension is applied to the head.
It is formed from a 1/8" by 36" stainless steel welding rod available from your local welding supply store
for about a dollar.
This head reinforcement hoop is formed by hand around a 7" diameter disk.
Cut the resulting hoop to extend completely around the rim, but stopping about 1/2" past the tabs closest to the neck.
This leaves the area clear where the neck heel will be attached. File and sand the cut ends of the hoop.
Wrapping tabs around reinforcing hoop
This view shows the sequence of steps used to form the tab around the reinforcing hoop of 1/8" stainless steel rod.
Clamp the hoop lightly in place butted against the flat washers. Remove a bolt,
apply heat to the tab until it becomes pliable, bend up over the hoop, and hold it in place using a piece
of cloth to keep from burning your fingers. Shine a small flashlight through the rim hole from the inside, hold
the tab in position, and mark the location of the hole on the outside of the tab. Hold the tab in position
and drill through the marked location with a 3/16" drill bit. Reinsert the bolt with flat washer and snug it down.
Wrapping tabs complete...time to tension it!
The outline above the flat washers is lightly marked so the excess tab can be trimmed when the head
is removed before applying the finish to the completed instrument.
Excess tab material can be lopped off above the flat washer for the time being.
The head can now be brought up to tension. Insert the 3/32" allen wrench into the allen head tensioning
screws from the back and run them in until they just contact the tension/tone hoop.
After all screws contact the hoop give each an additional quarter turn.
Suprisingly little force is needed to tension the hoop.
An additional quarter turn or so may be necessary after the head settles in.
Cut a piece of .015 Mylar material in a 18" circle to form the head. This material is available from art supply
stores in bulk form, or better yet, obtain it from an old kick drum head removed when a drummer changes heads.
Check your local music shop or drummer's shop if you are lucky enough to have one in your area. I splurged
and purchased a new head to use, because I really like the looks of the Fibreskin mylar heads made to
resemble real hide. Warning...this option will set you back about twenty bucks!
