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Weekend Workbench

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I decided to build this bench when I finally had enough of working on make-shift surfaces. If you do the glue-ups a day ahead of time, it can be completed in a weekend.

Cut the uprights slightly longer than necessary and route a 1/4" deep pocket down the length of all inside surfaces to form the cavity that will house the 3/8" all-thread used to assemble the bench. Top, bottom, and center cross-supports were also glued at this time, as well as the two pieces of 2" X 6" which will become the movable face of the endvise.

Plane all glued-up 2" X 4" sections to 3 & 1/4" wide using a Safety-planer. The faces of the 2" X 4"'s are surfaced lightly to clean up the surfaces and to produce a finished thickness of 2 & 7/8".

Trim uprights to length. Draw the profiles on all bottom, center, and top cross-pieces and cut thier profiles to shape.

End frames are assembled with 3/8" all-thread. Tee nuts are counter-sunk into the top cross-piece, and flat washers and nuts at the bottom permit periodic re-tightening.

All sections are assembled using short sections of 1" X 1/4" dowel rod inserted in mating holes to prevent them from shifting.

Loosely assemble end frames, fit 2X6" stretchers between uprights, and re-assemble using the 1/4" dowel sections to prevent movement. The stretchers are routed length-wise down the inside to contain the 3/8" all-thread used for assembly.

Cut the long dimension stretchers to length and assemble in the same manner as the short stretchers. This will complete the basic framework of the bench.

Bore 1 & 1/16" holes in endframe cross-piece and in all center cross-pieces to accept the 3/4" black pipe used as the endvise clamp. These holes were drilled using a common 1 & 1/8" paddle bit with the sides ground down to produce the needed 1 & 1/16" hole.

Attach top boards to end frames with 1/4" X 3 & 1/2" lag bolts and flat washers. Countersink the bolt holes with a 3/4" forstner bit to allow the bolts to recess below the bench top.

Attach the center support in place using the same technique. The center support has the area facing away from the endvise routed 1/4" deep in the area where the pipe clamps will be positioned against. This will ensure the pipe clamp jaws will remain upright, and the release mechinism will remain properly positioned.

Position the end support over the pipes, slide up against the clamps, and bolt in place using six 1/4" X 3 & 1/2" lag screws countersunk below the top as previously done.

Fit the rabbited fixed vise jaw to the end of the bench and attach it with a few long countersunk #10 flathead screws.

Lay out the holes for the endvise movable jaw so the top will protrude 1/4" above the bench top. Bore the holes at approximately a 3 degree angle. This will ensure the jaw is vertical when tightened. Position movable jaw on the pipes and tighten it against the fixed jaw. Mark the area still above the bench top and trim off the excess height.

Fashion the clamp release bars and attach them to the underside of the rear-most cross-support using 1/4" X 3 & 1/2" lag screws for pivots. Attach them so the release bars properly depress the leaf releases on the pipe clamps.

Attach foot-operated release treadles at the bottom of the end frame. Attach cable and hardware to actuate the bar clamp release fingers when pressure is applied to one or both treadles.

Drill a line of 3/4" holes 3" apart down each side of the bench, making sure to include a hole in the movable vise jaw. Drill these all the way through to prevent debris from being trapped in the holes.

Make simple bench dogs to assist with clamping the work in place.

Make an adjustable locking bar to use as a pivot when using only one side of the vise for clamping.

Floors are never perfectly level. This wedge is kicked under the unsupported leg to make the bench rock-solid.

Clamp a shouldered stop in place to serve as a multi-porpose stop.

For heavy-duty use, mount a machinist's vise to a board which is clamped to the bench top when needed.

Mount wheels to end frame slightly above floor level. Bench can now easily be moved by elevating opposite end until the wheels contact the floor.

	I decided to build this bench when I finally had enough of working on make-shift surfaces. If you do the glue-ups a day ahead of time, it can be completed in a weekend.
	Cut the uprights slightly longer than necessary and route a 1/4" deep pocket down the length of all inside surfaces to form the cavity that will house the 3/8" all-thread used to assemble the bench. Top, bottom, and center cross-supports were also glued at this time, as well as the two pieces of 2" X 6" which will become the movable face of the endvise.
	Plane all glued-up 2" X 4" sections to 3 & 1/4" wide using a Safety-planer. The faces of the 2" X 4"'s are surfaced lightly to clean up the surfaces and to produce a finished thickness of 2 & 7/8".
	Trim uprights to length. Draw the profiles on all bottom, center, and top cross-pieces and cut thier profiles to shape.
	End frames are assembled with 3/8" all-thread. Tee nuts are counter-sunk into the top cross-piece, and flat washers and nuts at the bottom permit periodic re-tightening.
	All sections are assembled using short sections of 1" X 1/4" dowel rod inserted in mating holes to prevent them from shifting.
	Loosely assemble end frames, fit 2X6" stretchers between uprights, and re-assemble using the 1/4" dowel sections to prevent movement. The stretchers are routed length-wise down the inside to contain the 3/8" all-thread used for assembly.
	Cut the long dimension stretchers to length and assemble in the same manner as the short stretchers. This will complete the basic framework of the bench.
	Bore 1 & 1/16" holes in endframe cross-piece and in all center cross-pieces to accept the 3/4" black pipe used as the endvise clamp. These holes were drilled using a common 1 & 1/8" paddle bit with the sides ground down to produce the needed 1 & 1/16" hole.
	Attach top boards to end frames with 1/4" X 3 & 1/2" lag bolts and flat washers. Countersink the bolt holes with a 3/4" forstner bit to allow the bolts to recess below the bench top.
	Attach the center support in place using the same technique. The center support has the area facing away from the endvise routed 1/4" deep in the area where the pipe clamps will be positioned against. This will ensure the pipe clamp jaws will remain upright, and the release mechinism will remain properly positioned.
	Position the end support over the pipes, slide up against the clamps, and bolt in place using six 1/4" X 3 & 1/2" lag screws countersunk below the top as previously done.
	Fit the rabbited fixed vise jaw to the end of the bench and attach it with a few long countersunk #10 flathead screws.
	Lay out the holes for the endvise movable jaw so the top will protrude 1/4" above the bench top. Bore the holes at approximately a 3 degree angle. This will ensure the jaw is vertical when tightened. Position movable jaw on the pipes and tighten it against the fixed jaw. Mark the area still above the bench top and trim off the excess height.
	Fashion the clamp release bars and attach them to the underside of the rear-most cross-support using 1/4" X 3 & 1/2" lag screws for pivots. Attach them so the release bars properly depress the leaf releases on the pipe clamps.
	Attach foot-operated release treadles at the bottom of the end frame. Attach cable and hardware to actuate the bar clamp release fingers when pressure is applied to one or both treadles.
	Drill a line of 3/4" holes 3" apart down each side of the bench, making sure to include a hole in the movable vise jaw. Drill these all the way through to prevent debris from being trapped in the holes.
	Make simple bench dogs to assist with clamping the work in place.
	Make an adjustable locking bar to use as a pivot when using only one side of the vise for clamping.
	Floors are never perfectly level. This wedge is kicked under the unsupported leg to make the bench rock-solid.
	Clamp a shouldered stop in place to serve as a multi-porpose stop.
	For heavy-duty use, mount a machinist's vise to a board which is clamped to the bench top when needed.
	Mount wheels to end frame slightly above floor level. Bench can now easily be moved by elevating opposite end until the wheels contact the floor.