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Jedi Props



Custom A99 Aquata Breather -- A Tutorial

The Compressed Air Tanks:
Pull Chain Accessory for ceiling Fans and Lighting - ITEM # L 614 BRASS/WOOD TEARDROP PULL CHAIN made by Prime/Home Impressions. I got this at my local Lowe's. The fist thing I did was take the chain off which is easily done by unscrewing the end piece.

Tank Hinge Assembly:
310 Super Hinge Point by Robart Used for RC model airplanes, you can get these at most hobby shops. Basically I roughed up the pull chain decorations and cut the grooves into them using a dremel. I was going for a well used look so I dry rubbed black and silver paint on them. I then drilled a hole in the wide end of the pulls so I could attach the hinges. I used a small black rubber tube that I found in the garage (leftover from some plumbing job as I recall)to put over the hinge where it attaches to the tank. I used epoxy to secure the hinges to the "air tanks".

The Mouth Piece:
I found a pack of 3 poly cooking spoons in Walmart that I thought would work well for the mouth piece. I was able to cut and sand the shape of the mouth piece out of the spoon after spending much time and patience. I then took a drill and drilled into the thick part of the mouth piece so I could insert the hinges. I added two more pieces of black tubing and epoxy to hold it all in place

Jedi Food and Energy Capsules

1) YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING MATERIALS TO BUILD YOUR JEDI FOOD CAPSULES:
STEADTLER PEN CAPS
BUTTONS - I use Le Bouton model number 2620, available at Wal-mart
CRAZY GLUE GEL - I use gel glue because it has a longer set time which is needed for alignment of buttons
220 GRIT SAND PAPER
WHITE SCOURING PAD
LONG Q-TIPS
SOMETHING TO STICK THE Q-TIPS INTO
PRIMER - I use Krylon.
BASE PAINT - I use gold, silver or copper Colorplace, available at Wal-mart
TOP COAT - I use House Beautiful satin clear protector, available at Wal-mart
PLIERS

2) THIS IS HOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR JEDI FOOD CAPSULES
Lightly scuff the glue surfaces of the pen cap and button.
Place a beed of Super Glue Gel around the diameter of the pen cap.
Set button on the pen cap and clip onto any thing that will keep it in a vertical position, I use a spray paint cap.
Re-align any buttons that get knocked out of place while you are clipping you JFCs to the paint cap.
Let them set for at least 1 hour so the glue can throughly dry.

3) HOW TO PAINT YOUR JEDI FOOD CAPSULES
Pull the clip out of cap with pliers
Scuff plastic surface of cap with a white scouring pad and remove excess glue from cap/button joint.
Wipe both parts with lacquer thinner
Insert long Q-tip in hole on cap
Tape barbed part of clip to long Q-tip
Apply 1 light coat of gray primer
Scuff with scouring pad
Apply 2 coats of gold or silver or copper base paint
Apply 2 light coats of satin or lusterless clearcoat
Re-insert clip in cap
Insert the barb about and 1/8 inch and then pinch it with one hand while pulling the clip away with the other hand. This will prevent the clip from scratching the cap.
Let this dry a long time.
Use light coats and read the Manufacturers directions
concerning the drying time and re-coat time

The Jedi Comlink
THE RAZOR (MODIFIED Off The Shelf item available at most Wal-mart)
Removed the back grip By pulling it up with pliers and cutting the tabs with a razor blade.
Fill the back in with Bondo UV sun activated glazing and spot putty.
When the bondo is dry sand flush with 80 grit sandpaper and finish with 220 grit.
Remove the blade attachment with a side cutting pliers (dikes) and pull the center part out with needle nose pliers.
Fill the oval seam on the back (if you have one) with epoxy.
Fill the top notches with epoxy.

OPTIONAL:

File the ridge off that surrounds the razor and fill with epoxy
When the epoxy is dry remove the excess with a file and then finish sand with 400 grit sand paper.
Drill a 1/8" hole on each side 1/16" from the top notches. Drill the holes at a 45 degree angle.
Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the top.
Screw a 3/4" long section (Cut head off) of #12-24 bolt into the center cavity.
Prime the entire unit and wet sand with 400 grit sand paper.

THE TAB WASHER ON THE BACK
(Custom Made, a thin piece of aluminum that is adhered to the surface.)
Make a template from the Episode 1 Visual Dictionary and print it on a label.
Applied the template to the front of the aluminum.
Use a rotary hole die or a very sharp drill bit to make the 1/2" hole in the center.
Make relief cuts around the shape of the tab washer.
Use scissors to cut the rough shape of the tab washer.
File the tab washer to a finished shape.
Remove the template with lacquer thinner .
Put the tab washer in place and bend to fit the curve of the razor.
Attach the tab washer at the top of the razor with
Super Glue Gel (longer set-up time).

THE ROUND BUTTON ABOVE THE RECTANGLE ON THE BACK
(Modified OTS item, available at most Wal-marts)
Use a 7/16" flat round button. The thread loop must be sanded off and the button must be scuffed with 400 grit sang paper to enhance paint adhesion.
Attach the button 1/16" below tab washer with Super Glue Gel.

THE RECTANGLE ON THE BACK
(Custom Made, a thin piece of brass that is adhered to the surface.)
Make a template from the Episode 1 Visual Dictionary and print it on a label.
Applied the template to the front.
Use a 1/4" paper hole punch to make the 6 large holes a 5/64" drill bit to make the 4 small holes.
Use a 1/4" paper hole punch to remove most of the rectangle in the center , then finish with a small file.
Remove the template with laquer thinner and spray the back with 3M Super Adhesive
Attach the rectangle 1/16" below round button with Super Glue Gel.

THE #4-32 BRASS TRI-NUTS ON THE BACK
(MODIFIED OTS item available at most Lowes)
Two #4-32 brass Tri-nuts (modified acorn nuts) are in the center of the rectangle on the back
To modify the #4-32 brass acorn nuts you must grind 3 sides and the top.
Attach them with Super Glue Gel.
THE #4-32 BRASS ACORN NUTS ON THE BACK (OTS item available at most Lowes)
Six #4 brass acorn nuts surround the rectangle on the back
Attach them with Super Glue Gel (longer set up time)

TRI-BEADS
(Modified OTS item available at most Wal-marts)
Three 11mm tri-beads are used on QGJ's comm link. Two are in front and one is on the back in the center of the tab washer.
Sand the tri-bead flat with 80 grit sand paper and 220 grit sand paper to finish. Use adhesive sanding disks, attach them to a flat surface and move the bead around the sandpaper with your finger.
Fill the center with epoxy, when dry sand the excess epoxy off wit 220 grit sand paper
Attach 1 tri-bead to the back in the center of the tab washer. THE BACK IS NOW DONE!!!
Attach 2 tri-beads to the front just above the grip.

THE D-PIECE ON THE FRONT
(Modified OTS item. A picture hanger that is glued to the surface.)
Make a template from the Episode 1 Visual Dictionary and print it on a label.
Applied template to the front of the picture hanger.
You can use a thin piece of aluminum if you can not find the picture hanger.
Use a 1/4" drill bit to enlarge the center hole.
Use a 1/8" drill bit to make the 2 smaller holes.
Cut off the excess part if the picture hanger and file the radius on the corners.
Remove the template with lacquer thinner.
Attach the D-piece on the grip with Super Glue Gel.

THE SOLDER LUGS ON THE FRONT
(OTS item, available from Seastrom)
Three of these are located on the front of the comm link
Attach the solder lugs with Super Glue Gel.
PRIME, BASE COAT AND DETAIL AS DESIRED. THEN TOPCOAT THE ENTIRE COMM LINK.

THE RIM WASHER
(Unknown to me I am making mine from scratch)
Make a template from the Episode 1 Visual Dictionary and print it on a label.
Applied template to a thin piece of aluminum.
Drill both 1/4" holes from the front.
If you have pan head screws countersink the part from behind until the head of the screw fits flush.
If you have flat head screws countersink the part from the front until the head of the screw fits flush.
Rough cut the part to shape and file to finished shape.
Remove the template with lacquer thinner .
Cut the head off of the tri-wing screws.
Super glue them in place
Fill the gaps in with epoxy, be careful not to get epoxy in the wings
When the epoxy is dry sand the part flat.
Bend the curved part slightly
Paint it gold. and top coat it.
Remove the paint from the comm link glue surface and the rim washer glue surface
Attach the rim washer with Super Glue Gel
This part is optional, the rim washer is from the E1VD but the movie version used a different unidentified part.

THE VOICE PICKUP
(Modified OTS item available at most Lowes)
The voice pick up is comprised of 2 pieces: a 3/8 brass insert for plastic tubing and a 7/16" brass washer
Super Glue the washer to the sleeve.
Make a mandrel from a 10-24 stove bolt that is at least 2" long. Slide the sleeve onto bolt and tighten the wing nut.
Chuck mandrel in a variable speed drill and place the drill on its side.
Rotate mandrel at a slow speed.
Chuck a cutoff wheel into your dremel and set at a medium speed.
Engage the sleeve 3/16" from the washer and cut a shallow groove.
Engage the sleeve 1/2" from the washer and cut the excess part of the sleeve off.
If you want to corrode the voice pickup put it into vinegar for 12 hours or until desired level of corrosion is achieved.
Attach the voice pick up over the bolt with Super Glue Gel

THE ANTENNAE
(Modified OTS item available at most Lowes)
I use small L-hooks for the antennae
Cut the end off of the L-hook and grind it to a length of 1/2" from reinforcement disk.
Chuck the screw threaded part of the antenna in a variable speed drill and place the drill on its side.
Rotate the antenna at a slow speed.
Chuck a cutoff wheel into your dremel and set at a medium speed.
Engage the antenna 1/16" from the reinforcement disk and cut a shallow groove.
Engage the antenna 1/16" from the end and cut a shallow groove.
If you want to corrode the antennae put them into vinegar for 12 hours or until desired level of corrosion is achieved.
Put a small amount of Super Glue Gel into the 1/8" hole and screw the antennae into the holes