Thus ensued a long evening of adventure. The afternoon bus on Saturday took me up to a little town called Happaranda flush against the Finnish border. It was a short 1km walk across the border to the twin town Tornio. Then I discovered the busses don't run that late from Tornio on Saturdays. There I was, staring cluelessly at finnish words on a dark billboard outside Information, getting spattered with light evening rain, when a car suddenly pulled up beside me. Three boys poked their heads out and asked if I needed help. I didn't even have to stick out my thumb! I was wary at first (3 boys vs. me?) but they weren't older than 18, so I hopped in. They drove me the 20km to Kemi and left me at the train station. Great kids! Only two knew english, but it was more than enough! So, eventually the bus (not train, the tracks were apparently broken) came and took me and lots of tired visitors and workers down to Oulu where we all caught the train to the south, away from the arctic circle. I just wanted to use this section to point out that Finnish sleeper trains are the best in Europe. Sinks in the compartments, little towels, bottled water, and only 3 beds (instead of 6). The comfort!