Many thanks to Stefan, a man I've known now over five years and finally saw face to face up in Sweden's frigid north. The weather was still lovely, and the train ride up was gorgeous - passing aspens and pines, lakes and rapids. I recommend the north of Scandinavia and of the Baltics for anyone who likes Autumn. Luleaa is a smaller town in Sweden with still a somewhat bustling feel. All I didn't know is where they were bustling to. Stefan took good care of me and we visited quite a few coffee shops and I enjoyed the views of two lakes squishing Lulea center together (much like Madison). I spent a quiet night in a local hostel and the next day wandering before packing up for my first bus trip since Spain. Thanks again for the fun, Stefan!