Day 4 - 5.24.03
1130AM - We went on another jungle hike this morning. This time the mosquitoes were more of a problem. Every time we stopped, they swarmed down upon me. It was also much warmer this time and even the small breeze that played across our faces as we walked made a difference. In addition to seeing many of the same things as on the last hike, we learned jungle survival skills. Rui, our guide, showed us something he called an "Indian Wireless Phone." By banging on the buttresses of the huge trees, one could S.O.S. over great distances. He also showed us how to build a thatched roof of palm fronds that could lay over the buttresses, creating a small shelter. Then he showed us the water vine. This vine draws cold water from natural underground wells and is essential for survival in the jungle because most of the surface water, and even rain water, needs to be filtered first. It was quite amazing to see. Cutting it at a certain position with his machete, Rui showed us what looked to be a solid piece of wood...but cold, clean water flowed forth. It was slightly sweet... After the hike (no falls this time!), we headed for a local village. Here we saw a manioc plantation and how the locals prepare the root. It was actually quite interesting, and the process was very labor intensive. The children were fascinated by our cameras, especially when they saw themselves on the playback screen. I couldn't imagine growing up as they are... We then sampled some Brazil Nuts straight from the tree and had a drink called "orocoon," which was made from a particular seed. We also came across the "lipstick plant." The flowers of this plant are broken open, and the seeds are removed to make the pigment for red lipstick. Interesting...
4PM - Earlier today I came across a sloth, a troop of capuchin monkeys, and some macaws on the canopy catwalks. Although we have electricity and air-conditioning here at Ariau (though it barely works), it hasn't really taken away from the jungle experience. We still sleeps with bugs, it is still really hot, and we are still surrounded by wildlife. But I'm late for our piranha fishing expedition...
8PM - Piranha fishing was a lot of fun, but I only caught one. Nobody really did anyways, except Mike, a true fisherman, and Tara. The rod was a simple stick with some twine and hook. We threw some raw bait on and then thrashed the rod around in the water to mimic a struggling animal. All in all, we caught about 15, and Ariau made piranha soup for us at dinner. It was tasty, but also scary looking and small, with very little meat.
11PM - Just got back from an interesting experience: we watched, and the guys participated in, an Indian "thanksgiving ceremony." Pulling up to the village felt like a gloomy Disney ride. A large wood and straw hut loomed before us, torches flickering in the darkness. A small fired burned in the far corner, three caimans roasting upon it. We gathered on one of the sides and the ceremony promptly began. The men played pan flutes and danced around, creating a rhythm with beaded anklets. The women of the tribe eventually weaved in, each grabbing a man. They danced around the hut in snake-like fashion. It finally ended and we took pictures with them. We also drank a juice made from pineapple bark, smoked the ceremonial pipe, and ate the caimans that were roasting in the corner. It tasted a lot like chicken...no joke. Then the dancing began again, but this time the guys and I were handed pan flutes and invited to join. I think our pan flutes were defective because none of us could make them work. Our rhythm was off, too, so we looked like morons. But it really was an amazing experience. It wasn't until later tonight that I found out I had danced with the only topless woman there! Honestly, how could I not notice! Maybe I was too focused on making the damn pan flute work...or I'm just oblivious. These people are different from the cablocos. They are indigneous to this area, and have no Portuguese blood. They don't even speak Portuguese, which obviously made communication difficult. Most of the people we have visited, thus far, have recognized the American dollar. But when I tried to buy one of their crafts, the looked very confused (I ran out of reals the first day). I later found out that our experience with them is very rare, as they usually like to be left alone. Not many people that visit Ariau got this opportunity...awesome...