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Remove the seat. Locate the dipstick cover. Remove the dipstick from the tank. |
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Place drain pans under both the crankcase drain plug and the oil tank drain plug. |
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Remove both of the drain plugs using a 17mm “Monkey Wrench” on the crankcase drain plug and a 17mm socket with a 6”
extension on the oil tank drain plug. |  |
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Remember that the distance between the drain plug and the crankcase housing is very tight. Most people have the best luck
with a “Craftsman” combination wrench, as the profile of the closed end is thin enough to fit into tight spaces. Stubby
wrenches, although too short to give you any leverage are generally easier to use as the clearance between the bike and the
floor is also tight. Your best bet is to break loose the drain plug with a standard length wrench and complete the
process with the stubby wrench. |
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Remove the oil filter with a cap-style filter wrench. Give the oil plenty of time to drain. 10 to 15 minutes should be sufficient. Reinstall the drain plugs and the new filter Hand-tighten (as tight as you can, by hand...) the filter and torque the drain plugs to ~35 ft/lbs. |
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| Next, remove the hex-key plug, located behind the rear cylinder. Refill the crankcase with 3.2 US quarts (3 litres CDN) of oil directly. Add the remainder, approximately 2.1 US quarts (2 litres CDN) *See Note below* into the oil tank (where you removed the dipstick). Replace the hex key plug. Be careful you don't drop it down in the space at the rear of the hole behind the crankcase cause it is nearly impossible to get it out of there Tighten to approximately 10 ft/lbs. Start the bike and let it run for a few minutes, checking for leaks. Shut the bike off and check the oil. It should be at the top of the hash marks. |
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