THE COONHOUNDFind Your Breed
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EARS: Well attached slightly below top of skull. Should be thin with slight roll, taper well towards a point, and should reach well towards end of nose. Ears set low enough on head and devoid of erectile power. Ears well attached to head to prevent hanging or backward tilt.
HEAD: Skull very slightly domed and broad between ears, never narrow. Stop prominent. Length from occipital to end of nose: male-9 to 10 inches; females-8 to 9 inches.
EYES: Should be rather large, set wide apart at the stop, round. Dark brown, not lighter than light brown in color. Lids of eyes should be firm and close, without excess third eyelid showing, (no drooping).
MUZZLE: From stop to end of nose should be square, well proportioned in width with the skull, with depth and flews well covering the lower jaw. Depth of 3 to 4.5
HEIGHT OF SHOULDERS: Slightly higher at shoulders than at hips, not lower at the shoulders than at the hips. Adult males: 22 to 27 inches at shoulder. Adult females: 21 to 25 inches at shoulder.
LENGTH: Measured from point of shoulder to root of tail, should be equal to or slightly longer than height measurement.
NECK: Neck should rise with slight taper, not carried too high or too low, not thick as shoulders; muscular and of moderate length.
THROAT: Clean, with very small trace of dewlap (excess dewlap objectionable).
SHOULDERS: Clean, gradually sloped down from top of shoulder to point of shoulder and muscular. Not broad and protruding, but to appear as part of body, showing freedom of movement and strength.
CHEST: Should show considerable depth, rather than excessive width, allowing plenty of lung space. Fairly even with front of shoulders, extending well down toward the elbow in girth for adult males; 26 to 34 inches, and females; 23 to 30 inches.
RIBS: Should be well-sprung with good depth and taper gradually to floating ribs, resembling a curve in the chest, rather than a sunken drop off between chest and belly.
BACK: Should be muscular, blending well with the neck when the head is held alert, sloping down slightly from withers to loins.
LOINS: Broad, well-muscled and slightly arched.
FORELEGS: Straight from the shoulders down to the feet, well boned and muscular, with a strong, straight pastern. Forelegs should appear straight from either side or front view.
FEET: Round with well arched toes.(No upward trend or toeclaw.) Thick, tough pads. When standing should appear to have cat-like feet. No hind dewclaws.
HIPS: Strong and well muscled, width slightly less than rib spring.
THIGHS: Of gradual taper with excess muscular development giving abundant propelling power. Breeching full and clean down to hock.
HOCKS: Firm and moderately bent not excessively bent(as cow hocks), hind legs to appear straight with the body when viewed from behind.
TAIL: Attached slightly below the back line, well rooted, and tapering to a moderate length as compared with length of hound. Carried high with a forward curve as of half moon. Tail well coated (not flagged), not rat tail.
COAT: Medium coarse and laying close to the body, to appear smooth and glossy. Neither too rough nor too short.
Appearance of the Bluetick Coonhound should be that of a speedy, well muscled individual, not clumsy or chunky built. Body should be neat, coat glossy; head carried well up but not goose-necked. Eyes clear and keen. Tail carried gaily above back, not curled or dropped between legs. Feet round and well padded. A pleading hound expression, not wild or cowering. Active, ambitious, and speedy on trail.
The Bluetick should be a free tonguer on trail, with a medium bawl or bugle voice when striking and trailing, may change to a steady chop when running, with a steady coarse chop at tree.
Preferred color of the Bluetick is a dark blue, thickly mottled body, spotted by various shaped black spots on back, ears and sides. Preference running to more blue than black on body. Head with black predominant, also ears. Tan dots over eyes and on cheeks with a dark red ticking on feet and lower legs below body line, on chest and below tail. Red may be eliminated as to the desire of the breeder, as well as the tan head coloring and amount of black on body. A majority of blue mottled body preferred to lighter ticking over the body. The amount of blue ticking should control over the amount of white in the body coat. Off colors not allowed.
Even, neither undershot nor overshot.
The American Black & Tan can probably be traced to the English Foxhounds, and before that to the Tolbot Hounds and Hubert Hounds of France. These hounds were first brought to England following the Norman invasion in the 11th century.
The American Black & Tan was the first coonhound breed to be admitted into registry with U.K.C. When they were first registered in 1900, and for several years after that, they were registered as American Black & Tan Fox & Coonhounds.
HEAD: Carried well up, very slightly domed and broad between the ears, never narrow. Neck not too thick, nor too long, but graceful and strong; minimum of dewlap. Teeth even, neither over nor undershot.
EYES: Prominent, hound-like, pleading expression. Dark brown or black, not lighter than hazel. Eyelids firm and close (no drooping).
EARS: Set medium low, well attached to head and devoid of erectile power, should reach approximately to end of nose when drawn out. Should hang gracefully, inside part tipping toward muzzle, should not be too pointed at tip, slightly oval, soft and velvety, hanging in a roll when head is raised.
MUZZLE: Well-balanced with the other features of the head, medium square, with flews sufficient to give square appearance. Nostril large, open; black in color, never butterfly or pink.
Muscular and sloping; indicating speed and strength.
Deep, moderately wide, showing large lung space.
Short and slightly arched, well-muscled and strong. This is one important part of this breed. A good rule to breed to is the same distance from root of tail to shoulder as height at shoulder.
Smooth, round, proportionately wide, flanks gracefully arched, muscular at the loins, tail heavy, strong at root tapering there, rather long without brush, carried free, well-up, saber like.
FRONT: Straight, smooth forearms, muscular, straight at knees, perfectly in line with upper leg.
HIND: Strong and muscular above hock. Slightly bent at hock and stifle, not cow hocked, free of dewclaws.
Round, solid, cat foot, well-padded and knuckled, set directly under leg. This is a very important part in this breed>
Smooth haired, fine, glossy, but thick enough for protection. Predominantly deep, rich black, with tan trim covering not more than 10-15 percent of body. Small pumpkin seed over eyes. A little white on breast is not a fault, but no white elsewhere.
Slightly more at shoulders than at hips. MALES: 23 to 27 inches FEMALES: 21 to 26 inches
MALES: 50 to 75 pounds FEMALES: 40 to 65 pounds Dogs being shown slightly under weight due to hunting will not be penalized. This is a working breed and should appear as such.
A person could almost say that the history of the English Coonhound is the history of all coonhounds - and he wouldn't be too far wrong. With the exception of the Plott Hound, all the U.K.C. breeds of coonhounds have a common ancestry that is deeply rooted in the English Foxhound.
The English was first registered by U.K.C. in 1905, under the name of English Fox & Coonhound. In those days the dogs were used much more on fox than they are today. The name also reflected the similarity that the breed had to the American Foxhound and the English Foxhound.
The variation in color brings us to another aspect of the English Coonhound history. Both the Treeing Walker and the Bluetick Coonhound were originally registered with U.K.C. as English. The Walker was recognized as a separate breed in 1945 and the Bluetick a year later. To this day there are still tri-colored and blueticked English hounds, though redticked dogs predominate.
The first mention we have of hounds in America appears in the diary of one of the men of the explorer DeSoto. He also mentions that the hounds were used for the hunting of Indians rather than fox, raccoon or rabbitt.
In 1650, the Englishman Robert Brooke brought his pack of hounds with him. Thomas Walker of Virginia imported hounds from England in 1742, and in 1770 George Washington, an avid fox hunter, had hounds imported from England. These dogs were the foundation of the "Virginia Hounds", from which our present day English Coonhound developed.
It was, however, for the Americans to adapt these animals to the much rougher American terrain and climate. And it was the Americans that, through careful breeding practices, adapted the hound to American game, the raccoon, opossum, cougar and various species of bear.
English hounds have excelled in both performance and conformation. The first major coonhound Field Trial of all time, the first Leafy Oak, was won by an English dog called "Bones", owned by Colonel Leon Robinson.
Slightly higher at shoulders than at hips, never lower at shoulders than at hips. MALE: 22 inches to 27 inches FEMALE: 21 inches to 25 inches
Deep, broad chest, strong back, slightly arched. Not roached back. Thighs and shoulders up and muscle strong. Good barrel, plenty of lung room. A strong, racy type body.
Forelegs having good bones, straight, strong, set well apart. Feet, cats paw, strong arched over toes, pads deep, set directly under legs. The nails should be strong. Feet well-padded, stifles stout, well down. Hocks just a little bent. Hind legs, strong, showing drive, power push. Never cow hocked.
Hair hard, medium length, of good hound-type for protection.
A good hound bawl.
Even, neither undershot nor overshot.
This English Coonhound may be redtick, bluetick, tricolor with ticks, white-red, white-black, or white-lemon; any hound with too much black, too much red or any brindle is not acceptable.
The ancestors of today's Plott were used for boar hunting in Germany many years ago. Jonathon Plott left his native Germany and came to this country in 1750. He brought a few wild boar hounds with him. These dogs had been bred for generations for their stamina and gameness. Plott and his family settled in the mountains of western North Carolina.
In those days there were no wild boar in this country. Jonathon Plott used his dogs for hunting bear.
Plott supposedly kept his strain entirely pure, making no outcrosses. In 1780, the Plott pack passed into the hands of Henry Plott.
Shortly after that time a hunter living in Georgia who had been breeding his own outstanding strain of "leopard spotted bear dogs" heard of the fame of the Plott Hounds and came to North Carolina to see for himself. He was so impressed that he borrowed one of Plott's top stud dogs for a year to breed to his own bitches. This single cross is the only known instance of new blood being introduced into the Plott Hound since they first came to this country.
Other crosses possibly took place around the year 1900. G.P.Ferguson, who was a neighbor of the Plott family in North Carolina in those days, was a major influence on the Plott breed. He made a careful study of the Blevins hounds and the Cable hounds of that era. To what extent he used these bloodlines in his Plott breeding program, is not known.
The Plott Hound was first registered with United Kennel Club in 1946. Today's Plotts are known for their great courage and stamina. They have a clear voice that carries well.
Carried well up, dome is moderately flat, moderate width between and above eyes.
EARS: Set moderately high and of medium length, soft and no erectile power.
EYES: Brown or hazel, prominent, no drooping eyelids.
MUZZLE: Moderate length, but not square.
TEETH: Even, neither undershot nor overshot.
SHOULDERS: Muscular and sloping to indicate speed and strength.
CHEST: Deep, with adequate lung space.
BACK: Slightly arched, well muscled and strong, not roached.
HIPS: Smooth, round, proportionately wide, flanks gracefully arched, muscular quarters and loins
TAIL: Moderately heavy, strong at root tapering there, rather long with brush, carried free,
well up, saber like.
FRONT: Straight, smooth, forearm muscular. Straight at knees, perfectly in line with upper leg.
HIND: Strong and muscular above hock, slightly bent at hock, no cow hock, speedy shaped and graceful.
Round solid, cat foot, well padded and knuckled, set directly under leg.
The National Plott Hound Association's definition of the word "brindle": "A fine streaked or striped effect or pattern of black or tan hairs with hairs of a lighter or darker background color. Shades of colors accepted: yellow brindle, red brindle, tan brindle, brown brindle, black brindle, grey brindle, and maltese (slate grey, blue brindle.)" Grey muzzle accepted.
COAT: Hair fine to medium coarse, short or medium length, to give a smooth and glossy appearance.
COLOR: Brindle or black with brindle trim. No solid colors accepted. Some white on chest and/or feet permissible. White not permitted elsewhere on dog. Should have a streak effect.
Open trailing, bawl and chop.
MALES: 22 inches to 27 inches at shoulder.
FEMALES: 21 inches to 25 inches at shoulder.
MALES: 50 TO 75 POUNDS
FEMALES: 40 TO 65 POUNDS
Active, fast, bright, kind, confident, courageous, vicious fighters on game, super treeing instincts, take readily to water, alert quick to learn, have great endurance and beauty.
The foundation stock of the modern day Redbone came from George F. L. Birdsong of Georgia, who was a noted foxhunter and breeder. He obtained the pack of Dr. Thomas Henry in the 1840's.
As is the case with most of the other coonhound breeds, the ancestors of the Redbone were foxhounds. A Bloodhound cross is said to have been made, and it's also said that the blood of the irish hounds was also introduced later. This latter cross is said to account for the white chest and feet markings which still occasionally show up in Redbone pups today.
The first dogs were commonly called "saddlebacks". The background color was red, and most of them possessed black saddle markings. By selective breeding, the black saddle was bred out and the solid red dogs became known as Redbone Coonhounds.
The Redbone was the second coonhound breed to be registered with U.K.C., the first being registered in 1902, two years after the American Black & Tan.
Of the six coonhound breeds, the Redbone is probably the most uniform as to type and size. The breed is distinguished by a medium build, pleading eyes and a "sweet" voice. The rich, deep red color makes Redbone a striking dog to look at.
The Redbone is known to be a well-balanced breed, making them adaptable to various types of hunting and terrain. Their agility benefits them when hunting in fenced country or steep, rocky ground. Redbones are known to make excellent water dogs.
A natural treeing instinct has been bred into the Redbone, making them specialists in coon hunting. But they are also proficient in trailing and treeing bear, cougar and bobcat. Often times, when used on big game, Redbones are hunted in packs.
Solid red preferred, small amount of white on brisket or feet not objectionable.
EYES: Brown to hazel in color, dark eyes preferred. Set well apart and of pleading expression.
SKULL: Moderately broad, well proportioned with body.
MUZZLE: Well balanced with other features of head, never dished or upturned.
TEETH: Even, neither over nor undershot.
Throat clean, medium in length, strong, slightly arched and held erect denoting proudness. Slight fold of skin below angle of jaw not objectionable.
Slightly taller at shoulder than at hips. Never opposite. Males: 22 to 27 inches. Females: 21 to 25 inches.
Deep broad chest. Back strong and slightly arched; length well-proportioned to height. Thighs and shoulders up, clean and muscular. Well-sprung ribs, plenty of lung space.
Medium in length, very slight brush.
Legs straight, well boned, pasterns straight, well set, clean and muscular denoting combination of both strength and speed. Never cow hocked.
Cat-paw type, compact, well-padded, toes strong and well arched, stout, well set nails. Feet should set as directly under leg as possible.
Before that time Thomas Walker of Albemarle County, Virginia, imported hounds from England in 1742. George Washington, who was an avid fox hunter, also imported several hounds from England in 1770. These dogs became the foundation strains of the "Virginia hounds", which were developed into the Walker hound.
At least one major outcross was made in the 19th century that was to forever influence the breed. Strangely, the outcross was with a stolen dog from Tennessee of unknown origin, know as Tennessee Lead.
Lead didn't look like the Virginia strain of English Foxhounds of that day. But he had an exceptional amount of game sense, plenty of drive and speed and a clear, short mouth.
Walkers were first registered with U.K.C. as part of the English Coonhound breed. Then in 1945, at the request of Walker Breeders, U.K.C. began registering them as a separate breed - first as Walkers (Treeing) and then later as Treeing Walkers.
SKULL: Head is carried well up. Occiput bone prominent; cranium broad and full. Head in pleasing proportion to body.
EARS: Of medium length set moderately low. Should hang gracefully, inside part tipping toward muzzle. Should not be too pointed at tip, but slightly round or oval, soft and velvety, hanging with a tendency to roll when head is raised. In proportion to head and body.
EYES: Moderately prominent, set well apart. Open, soft and expressive. Dark in color; brown or black.
MUZZLE: Medium square, rather long. Slightly tapering, with flews sufficient to give a rather square appearance. Stop not too prominent, not too abrupt.
NOSTRILS: Rather large, prominent and black. A slightly sloping nostril not objectionable.(Fault: other colors)
TEETH: Should meet; not overshot or undershot.
DEFECTS: A very flat skull, narrow across the top. Excess of dome. Eyes small, sharp and terrier-like: too protruding. Muzzle long and snipy, cut away below eyes too much, or very short. Roman nosed, or upturned, giving a dish-faced expression. Ears short, set high or with a tendency to rise above the point of origin.
SHOULDERS, CHEST AND RIBS: Shoulders sloping, clean muscular. Not loaded or heavy in appearance. Conveying the idea of freedom of action, springiness, with activity and strength. Chest should be deep for lung space. Look for depth rather than width. Well spring ribs. Back ribs should extend well back, about a three-inch flank allowing for springiness. BACK AND LOINS: Back moderately long, muscular and strong. Loins broad and slightly arched. FORELEGS: Straight, with a fair amount of bone. Pasterns short and straight. FEET: Solid, compact, well padded, giving a cat-like appearance. Well arched toes, strong nails for quick get away. HIPS, THIGHS, HINDLEGS AND FEET: Hips and thighs strong and well muscled, giving abundance of propelling power. Stifles strong and well let down. Hocks firm, symmetrical and moderately bent. Feet close and firm. TAIL: Set rather high. Strong at root. Tapering, moderately long without flag. Carried free, well up saber-like. Curved gracefully up and forward. COAT: Smooth haired. Glossy, fine, yet dense enough for protection. A close, hard, hound coat. COLOR: Tri-colored is preferred, white-black-tan. White may be the predominant color, with black spots and tan trim; or black may be the predominant color with white markings and tan trim, such as saddle back, or blanket back. White with tan spots or white with black spots may be accepted. SYMMETRY OR CONFORMATION: Of great importance. Denotes quality. VOICE: Preferably a clear, ringing, bugle voice; or a steady, clear chop. Noticeable change at tree.) HEIGHT: Slightly more at shoulders than hips. Shoulders should measure: Males; 22 to 27 inches. Females; 20 to 25 inches. WEIGHT: Should be in porportion to dog's height. Working dogs not to be penalized shen shown if slightly under. Energetic, intelligent, active, courteous, composed, confident, fearless, kind, graceful in pose and while active.
(DEFECTS: Straight, upright shoulders. Chest disproportionately wide, or with lack of depth. Flat ribs.)
(DEFECTS: Very long, swayed or roached back. Flat, narrow loins.)
(DEFECTS: Out at elbow. Knees knuckled over forward, or bent backward. Forelegs crooked. Feet long, open or spreading.)
(DEFECTS: Cowhocks, or straight hocks. Lack of muscle and propelling power. Open feet.)
(DEFECTS: Too long. Rat tail. Entire absence of brush.)
(DEFECTS: Short, thin coat, or of soft quality.)
DEFECTS: Any other color combination will be penalized when shown.
(DEFECTS: Poor Conformation. QUALITATIVE CHARACTERISTICS
Signed,
