courtney love

doll parts: Clothes have always been integral to the Love image. When her band, Hole, debuted in 1994, the look was baby-doll dresses, beat-up mary janes, bobby socks, smeared lipstick. Love's approach was filled with meaning, says stylist Arianne Phillips - taking female rchetypes and putting her own twist on them.

tough love: The rotting white vintage dres she wore to marry Kurt Cobain once belonged to Frances Farmer.

i'm miss world: Rebellion gets old. For "The People vs. Larry Flynt," Love lost 40 pounds, cleared up her skin, and bobbed the ratty hair. Gianni Versace became a friend (she wore his gown to the Oscars).

the hole thing: These days, her inspirations are Patti Smith and Janis Joplin. She mixes army surplus with avant-garde designers like Michelle Mason. And no more coiffed hair - Courtney the rocker is reborn.

Courtney Today: Love has made the move from high glamour to mix-it-up cool. Here, she wars cargo pants from an army-navy surplus store and a Gucci tank top.