Good reading on inkle weaving is available at Anne Marie deGarmeaulx's web page. In this site Sunnifa describes pattern drafting and shows sample patterns.
Sunnifa's inkle loom:
Four examples of her weaving:
and six more examples:
and another random sample:
A dress for Kali & a closeup of the trim:
And another dress:
Inkle woven trim on Emma's boffer armor bag!
Lots more inkle weaving on Dirk's combat tunics:
Pattern Drafting is a fancy term for drawing up the pattern you wish to weave. It makes it a bit easier when you're starting out to have a drawing that you can refer to as you string the loom. Basic inkle weaving consists of alternating two rows of threads to produce a pattern of stripes and/or checks in a horizontal and vertical format.
This pattern has a central horizontal stripe (7 threads wide in black & red), flanked by 2 rows of checks (3 threads wide in black & white), flanked by 3 vertical stripes (3 threads wide in black, white & black again).
The top row is Row A; the bottom row will be Row B. The 3 colors are: Black (B), White (W) and Red (R). Here's a close-up of the 2 rows:
Row A is drafted like this: BBB WWW BBB BBB WWW BBBBBBB WWW BBB BBB WWW BBB (37 threads)
Row B is drafted like this: BBB WWW BBB WWW BBB RRRRRRR BBB WWW BBB WWW BBB (37 threads)
Every other thread will need a heddle string to keep it in place, so that's 37 heddles needed.
When you warp (or string) the loom, you'll do one thread from Row A then one from Row B, then Row A, then Row B, alternating all the way through the rows. It does not matter which row you start with, nor which row you decide to pass through the heddles and which row goes straight; just stay consistent throughout the warping process. You can put the heddles on as you put on the warp threads, or do all the heddles at once after all the warp threads are done.
That's pattern drafting in a nutshell.
1. Some weaving for Tairdelbach. I should have laid this out flat to show how even the width is; the bumps and folds are misleading in this respect. Same pattern as #4 below.
2. This pattern consists of a central horizontal stripe pattern (7 threads wide in 2 colors), flanked by 4 sets of checks (3 threads wide in 2 colors each), with 3 vertical stripes as a border (3 threads wide in 2 colors). Only 4 colors are used.
3. This pattern is made up of simple checks (3 threads wide in 2 colors) with a 1-thread wide border. I used 3 colors and alternated the check colors to give the pattern more depth. To make square checks: use 3 threads wide in each color if the weft and warp threads are the same thickness.
4. Checks are easily modified to get a chain effect:
Some card woven trim:
more card woven trim:
still more card woven trim:
Card weaving on a kid's dress: