Ferret Care, Housing & Behavior - the Basics!

Good Eats & Tasty Treats

• Food Treats  
• Moderation is Key!  
• Vitamins  
• Presentation

Food

It’s often time to eat for your little metabolic engine you call a ferret! They need to eat about every four hours, so free feeding is essential! Rarely will a ferret become obese from overeating. Their little metabolisms are finely tuned (must be nice) to turn off when they’ve had enough. If you are worried about obesity, please see the health page for more information. Remember - make sure that food and water is ALWAYS available to your ferret!

Your domestic ferret is a carnivore and therefore needs a meat based diet - with ferret specific nutritional requirements, of course. I also recommend only dry kibble (with the occasional treat of prepared soft food - see the treats section). Feeding a steady diet of over the counter wet food is just not the way to go for your critter. Premium kitten and top quality ferret food is the best by far. Grocery store cat food is NOT a good suggestion - unless you are really in a pinch. The lesser cat foods just don’t have the protein and fat content your little high energy bundle needs. These foods also usually contain lesser by-products and dyes, which I don’t care for.

I recommend Totally Ferret premium food as the best. Of available kitten foods, I prefer IAMS the best. Both are high quality and meet known nutritional requirements. Also of note - TF is the least stinky food I’ve come across - both going in and inevitably coming back out. Many people complain of a distinct foul odor emanating from either their critter or his box/cage area…many times they’re feeding a common ferret food which is fish based. Also - I’ve never met a vet that would recommend a fish based food. Chicken should be the first ingredient of your critters favorite chow. Also important is filler. This is often corn, which can sometimes be the first ingredient. Ferrets don’t have a digestive system able to effectively digest plant protein - so meat is a must! Now TF is perhaps the most expensive food you’ll come across; however, I do feel it’s worth it. Also - your ferret will actually eat less of it, as it’s so much more digestible. I often mix two parts TF with one part Iams for my brood. Another food I like is Nutro-Max. Foods made from other things, such as liver, beef or plant products just aren’t the best idea. As always, keeping your vet apprised of the whole situation with your critter is advisable - and get his opinion as well!

Treats

What is appropriate for a ferret? Oh, I’m sure you’ll receive LOTS of suggestions. One thing to keep in mind is MODERATION. Remember - we all weigh over 100#…your critter usually weighs around 2#! So what is a tiny bit to you may be the equivalent of a Dagwood sandwich to him!

Perhaps the best of all is cooked chicken. Not fried, not seasoned - just put on the baking sheet to get done. Now, none of my critters will have any of this - but it’ worth a try. Remember - this is the first ingredient of their food, so it’s healthy as can be. Another treat along these lines is some cooked egg. Hard boiled or scrambled - doesn’t matter. This is a great treat for added protein - especially for critters with insulinoma who need protein without added sugar. Again, not many ferrets go for this - but it’s worth a try!

An all time favorite in my house is peanut butter. Five licks in a day is all I’ll give - but critters seem to universally love it. This is also a great way to hide medicine. If your critter has an especially foul medicine, liquid or pill, try mixing it in some peanut butter. If you can get all natural, go for it - the less added sugar the better.

Of course the easiest treats to give are those things we should give our critters regularly - Ferrotone and Kittymalt (Petromalt or any cat laxative). Why not make these tasty tinctures into a treat? After all - you should give a bit of each every couple of days. Also - I cut my Ferrotone with three parts Olive Oil. Critters love it - and it cuts down on the vitamins dispensed (there is some concern about too much vitamin A from an "overdose" of ferrotone).

For additional treat ideas, use good judgment when choosing. Plain cheerios will always win out over Lucky Charms - for the obvious reason that they have less sugar, die, salt, etc. in them. Dried fruits are a favorite of MANY critters (you should see my Yoda dance) - including the now infamous raisins. I’ve always given at least one raisin a week to my critters - but remember, you must moderate their intake. An upset tummy and diarrhea are a given with too many raisins in a sitting! Tiny pieces of both fruits and vegetables are OK in my book, but remember to watch for critters who can’t have additional sugar.

Please don’t give your ferrets chocolate. Chocolate is toxic to dogs - with ferrets it’s unclear, in my opinion. Still - why chance it? Just avoid chocolate completely. There are so many other treats you can give. Trust me, critter will go just as nuts for a plain cheerio! Another thing to avoid is dairy. Again, just not good for their tummies and can bring on upset. I’m sure a lick of ice cream is oh so nice - just remember, critter will enjoy some yummy flavored petroleum jelly laxative just as well! J You also want to avoid caffiene and alcohol. No reason on earth you should EVER "see how funny it is to get critter drunk." Your ferret will be plenty entertaining on healthy snacks!

Often I have used actual kibble as a treat. Sometimes I put a drop of ferrotone on a small quantity in my hand and serve to all at once. This seems to go over well - they really think they’re getting something special. You might also try any of the varieties of "duck soup" recipes out there. I’ll give just a plain recipe - to explain what exactly this concoction is. Nope - no duck in it at all! Legend has it that Lucky Duck’s (ferret, of course) owner made up a batch for him when he was ill. But you don’t have to use it for ill critters only. Actually, for an ill critter the recipe would contain essential nutritional supplements. There’s no medicinal benefit in this variety - just a change in food preparation to please the critter.

I start with kibble and chicken baby food. I fill the baby food jar with kibble and just enough water to cover it. Let this sit for a day. Afterwards, mash the soaked kibble into a mush and add the baby food. You can add a smidge o’ ferrotone for additional flavor as well. I serve this delicacy warm (not hot!). Used via syringe when critters need to be forced (the pumped up variety, that is), it makes a tasty stew that some critters go for when they’re feeling fine. I don’t suggest letting critter fill up on this, though. They still need to eat their daily meals of dry kibble, so use only as a treat. However, you can imagine that more than an ordinary treat is just fine here. Perhaps a couple of tablespoons full would be a nice helping. Also - warming it does seem to make a difference for my critters!

Moderation is the key!

So just what is moderation? Well, let’s use a raisin as a guide. One raisin a day is enough for me. This does not mean you should dispense one a day - this is just a guideline. Try to space out the treats as much as possible. Also - vary from raisin one day to peanut butter the next - to cheerio the next. And don’t forget to try cooked egg and chicken!

Vitamins

If you are feeding a high quality ferret or kitten food, such as Totally Ferret or Iams, I don’t feel extra vitamins are necessary. There are products on the market specifically labeled vitamins - other than Ferrotone, which is an oily "enhancement". I do believe in adding Ferrotone to the regimen, but I do not use additional vitamins. As always, ask your vet what he thinks - and what he’d recommend!

Presentation

I always suggest a heavy ceramic bowl or "J feeder" for all ferrets. You may have a critter who doesn’t like to move the food dish all over the house - but I sure don’t! I also always use a water bottle. Most of my ferrets HATE water when it’s time for a bath - but they sure do like to splash all the water out of a bowl to see what’s on the bottom! In addition, when using a bowl, you may discover that you have a "snorkel" or "water" weasel! I think the term is self-explanatory - they just love to get in there to investigate! Don’t forget to set that food dish in the dishwasher every so often as well!

Make sure to freshen your critters water bottle daily. Also - regular cleaning of the spout is important. I use regular dish soap in a sink full of HOT water (gloves help here!) and both a dishrag and q-tips. I fill up the bottle and let it sit, then I get to work on the spout. I really work in to all the possible places with the q-tips - to help avoid mold. Yes, even if you are changing the water daily your bottle can get moldy. You certainly don’t want critter drinking out of that! Also - be sure not to use bleach or any other toxic substance. Their water will be sitting in this bottle, remember. With frequent cleanings with regular soap ( and rinsing throughly!) your bottle will keep fresh.

Living the High Life

• Should I use a cage?  
• How do I choose the type and attributes?  
• Cage Modifications and Interior/Exterior Design  
• During playtime, to which rooms shall I limit access - and how?

Should I use a cage?

I don’t generally use a cage, but that does not mean I don’t recommend one. Now that I have several ferrets who need to run in certain circles, caging has once again become necessary for separation. There are many reasons you would want a cage - perhaps just as many why you wouldn’t. It’s a personal decision…based on your environment. Remember - ferrets sleep up to 16 hours a day. Therefore, I really don’t have a problem with caging while away from home. Indeed this is often the safest place for them to be. Also - properly appointed, the cage can become the preferred home of the weasel. Often ferrets will only eat and sleep in their cage - as it’s home and they just like it! I recommend you have at least a small cage - whether for traveling, vet visits or the occasions when you just have to do something the ferret just can’t be part of! fashion.

It’s important to remember that your ferret needs to have play time outside the cage EACH AND EVERY DAY - a minimum of four hours is recommended. You DO have time for this, no matter what you schedule. This time can be near your bedtime for example. Wake the weasel and play for awhile. Then go to bed - he’ll want some alone play time also (especially if you have more than one). Of course, this entails access to your bedroom…but frankly, I think this is the easiest room to "ferret proof." Many folks will get critters up while they’re preparing in the morning, then again in the evening - whenever they get home. This is a fine idea, since it gives more play times in general. You simply must fit this into your schedule - or a ferret is not for you. Critters kept caged for too long can develop behavioral problems, health problems - even live shorter lives, in my opinion! So make sure planning the necessary time for your ferret is embedded in your decision to attain one (or more…!!!)

How do I choose the type and attributes?

I strongly recommend visiting with other ferret owners to view the cages they have, as well as question them about their likes and dislikes. Cages are expensive; you certainly don’t want to get stuck with one that either you or your ferret don’t like. Visiting a shelter is also another great way to view several cage setups - as well as to learn how and why they are set up in a particular fashion. Once you’ve visited either a shelter or several owners and discussed their situations with them, you will be much better prepared to purchase for yourself. Some folks use standard cat carriers for their traveling cage - I prefer the one-story small mammal variety. These often look like regular cages - except they only have one level and are smaller. Often they will contain a shelf - I install a litter box under this shelf using double sided tape. These cages may also have either a more accessible door or a removable bottom tray. Much as I don’t care for metal cages, I will use the traveling variety. Also make sure to affix some kind of cup under the water bottle spout. Otherwise every time you move the silly thing the bedding will get soaked! Remember - it’s important to install the same attributes you would in a regular cage: place to eat, drink, poop and sleep.

Cages can be all wire, or have plastic parts or shelves. I do recommend you buy a cage that is big enough for several ferrets - even if you only have one or two for the moment. Most owners will end up with at least two ferrets…if not more…and you wouldn’t want to have to re-invest. Plus - the extra room never hurts! Buy the biggest cage you can afford - but don’t choose on size alone. One I’m thinking of in particular is HUGE - but only has two slim plastic shelves in it. The ferrets will only use these for access to other things…so to make the cage the most comfortable and not waste space, you will need to add full floors.

Cage Modifications

I find that ALL commercially available standard cages will need modification - some more than others. Here are some popular suggestions I'm always repeating to folks.

Modifications: Floor Covering

The most common and necessary modification is the installation of some kind of floor covering. The wire mesh of most cages is just not the best for your critter to walk on; indeed, ferrets have caught many a foot or claw on the mesh! There are many choices for floor covering; none of which needs to be expensive. I prefer vinyl flooring. Cut to fit, the floor then becomes solid to walk upon and easy to clean. You may wish to install carpet. This is a perfect acceptable flooring, but you may find it’s far more difficult to clean. Perhaps on the sleeping floors only - with vinyl for the litter box floor. Some folks have used outdoor astro-turf with success - as it can go in the washer. I myself pick up bathroom mats at the Salvation Army extra cheap - cut to fit, they can still go into the washer (just put a whole bunch of fray check where you cut!) Vinyl and carpet pieces may be found for next to nothing at your local flooring store. Just ask for old samples or off cut pieces - even damaged or stained! You just need a tiny bit…and with thrifty shopping, you can afford to throw away pieces and install new whenever necessary!

Modifications: Adding Useful Floor Space

Of course, you won’t be happy with floor covering if there’s no floor to cover! Indeed many cages just don’t take the ferrets into account when they’re designed, I reckon. Take the cage I mentioned above. Perfectly good cage - with a plastic bottom floor that’s oh so easy to clean. However, the space just isn’t utilized well. The ferrets use the shelves just for walking - and end up piled next to their litter box on the bottom floor to sleep. You can certainly add any of the commercially available hammocks and sleep sacks (or make your own, as I have done from time to time). Many ferrets LOVE hammocks - so I would certainly recommend adding at least one to your cage. However, full floors are important too - for daily movement and exercise. This is most important if you don’t have too much time to allow the critters out for play. There are many methods of adding shelved to the cages. Perhaps the best I can suggest if a plank of plywood. However - remember you must THOROUGHLY seal all wood surfaces - even the edged - with SEVERAL coats of polyurethene! Wood ABSORBS odors and will become disgusting very quickly. Also - I absolutely suggest using vinyl on the ferret surface of a wood shelf - completely glued down. While urethene or varnish may be durable, you never know who’s going to have an accident where. Vinyl is indeed IMPERVIOUS, so I certainly recommend it. Now - pay attention to the cage design when you shop. Can you take the bottom off to allow access to add a shelf or two? Of not, then you may have to choose another variety.

Modifications: The Necessities

You will of course need to add a food receptacle and water dispenser to the cage. I often will put this on the bottom floor, along with the litter box. See the section on feeding for some tips. As for a litter box, well…this topic will be covered in detail further in this document. What else to add? Why, blankies, of course! NEVER use wood chips in a cage! Your ferret is NOT a rodent - it has no need to burrow in this material. Indeed chips can be very harmful to the respiratory system. Old towels, t-shirts, sweatshirts - any material will do. I like baby blankets (yep - back to the Salvation Army). They’re nice, soft cotton and a snap to launder. You will want to launder your ferrets blankets, hammocks and any other fabric at least once every two weeks to avoid a musky odor. TIP: add one cup of baking soda to a load of laundry, in addition to your regular detergent. It really helps to power out odors - and it brightens! I do, on occasion, use bleach in the wash water and have had no trouble. You will want to choose your detergent carefully, though. Try to choose a product that has no dye, fragrance or other frou-frou - sensitive skin products or "free" products are best. Think of your ferret as your baby - and treat the environment in a similar fashion when in doubt!

Modifications: Options

As for toys - there will be a section in this document on toys in detail. Here I’d just like to mention that I feel you should add some toys to the cage. However, remember that these may very well be chewed the most - so pick only the most durable and check on them often. My Sophie liked to snuggle up with a plush bear, so she gets it when she’s in her cage. However, I also discovered that she likes to SNACK ON her favorite bear! I continue to put plush toys in with her, until she chews a hole. Then we try a new one! Once again, thrift directs my shopping. You can find tightly stuffed plushies lots of places for not too high a cost. Beanie babies are not a good idea - as they are very lightly stuffed and therefore easier to chew. Also - remove any eyes or other appendages that your critter could chew off and swallow. Just like a teething baby, aren’t they?

Many ferrets like to re-arrange their cage from time to time. Some do so on a daily basis - thoroughly exasperating their owners! If your critter is really going nuts inside his cage, he probably needs more time out of it. Either that or you might change his schedule so he’s in there when he wants to be asleep. Sometimes folk run into trouble when it’s bedtime for humans. You get home from work, let the critters out. Later on you get ready to go to bed - but you have to wake up the critter to put him away! Not a good idea…as he’ll probably want to get up and play now! I always make sure to wake up whoever is out about an hour before they’re slated to go back to prison (their term, of course).

Modifications: The Interior Weasel

Even though you may try the above suggestion, your critter may still feel the overwhelming need to assert his creative decorating style. This is most common with babies. A "J feeder" will help if he’s digging the food out of the dish. A water bottle will prevent him splashing out the contents of a dish. Safety pins will help secure blankets that are constantly on the move. Matter of fact, this is another good reason for hammocks - they’re in place! Toys may end up in the litter box and etc., so you’ll just have to get creative there. A food dish or litter pan may be affixed with double sided tape to keep it in place. There are also all sorts of clips and other fasteners (I use paper clips or twist ties) available to help keep things in their place. If your critter is going potty in an unacceptable area of the cage, try rearranging the furnishings to have the litter box where he wants it. You’ll find more information and suggestions for this under the Litter Training heading.

Modifications: The Escape Artist!

Don’t be suprised if your critter finds a means of egress from his cage! In fact, there are many ways he can think of. If the door is pliable enough, he may just squeeze himself right out. My Leia once chewed off a couple of bars and popped right out! If you have a "soft" door, I suggest removing it completely and making your own. This can be done by affixing a ‘door frame" to the existing wire cage made of wood, to which you can then hinge a wooden door. Lightweight plywood will do the trick - don’t forget to seal it! if your critter has chewed through some bars, I don’t know a way on earth to fix them, short of soldering them on again. Again, a piece of wood and some wire should make a quicker repair. Just something else to think about when selecting a quality cage.

All in all, I overwhelmingly recommend visiting with ferret owners to learn about the many cages that are on the market. You can also build your own! Several crafty ferret owners have done so with success. You may even save yourself a bit of money! However, as someone who built and quickly pitched a cage once, research is critical here. You MUST think your plan through carefully - and I certainly recommend talking to as many amateur cage builders as you can before even starting! I plan to build one once again soon. Frankly, I think I’ve gone through about 14 different drafts just to make sure I have what I want. Then I saw another picture on a web site - and made serious modifications! Please feel free to contact me for more information. When my cage is done, I will certainly post detailed instructions - as well as how it’s being used and so forth. One last thing - DO NOT USE AN AQUARIUM!

During playtime, to which rooms shall I limit access - and how?

Now that you have an idea about cages, you should think of where your ferret will have his play time. I always recommend a designated ferret room - if this is possible. This room will always maintain a state of being ‘ferret-proofed." It can be either an occupied or unoccupied room. I personally use my bedroom. My critters have full access to the room (that is, when it’s their group out to play). I make sure that all is ferret safe in the room at all times - then I don’t have to worry what they’re getting into. I find free house access to be difficult at this time, but it is possible. One advantage I would have if I chose to do this - I live alone. When you have more than one person living in the home, are you ever really sure if someone else didn’t mistakenly let the ferret out? Another problem: ferrets can and do open cupboard doors. This makes the kitchen and bathroom somewhat treacherous. Of course, more significant dangers are the fridge (some ferrets can get far too close to the motor by going behind and crawling in), the stove (underneath and behind - your ferret can be electrocuted or cooked!), the dishwasher (again, underneath) and the toilet (ever see a ferret try to drink from a toilet? Funny, but definitely super dangerous - they could fall in and easily drown).

When deciding whether or not to allow your critter access to a specific room, take some precautions and ask yourself some questions first. First - get down on your belly and look up under everything at that height. You will now have to come up with crafty ways of blocking holes and access areas. Once that’s done, bring on the ferret. Watch him closely. He should go right to the danger zones and try to gain access! After taking critter back to safe land, get busy again making modifications. There are so many tried and true methods - but there are thousands of possible variables in each home. If you’re having trouble with a certain modification solution, don’t hesitate to ask either myself or any other ferret owner. Having ferrets means having to think creatively - so we all share many "tools of the trade" often!

Modifications - the Bedroom

If your critter is to have full time access to a room, you might find it far more convienient to have something other than the normal room door, as most are tucked into the absolute corner and open inwards. For example: my critters live in my bedroom. It’s hard to get in and out with 5 critters on your heels! So much so, in fact, that I decided to make a half door that I can step over - taking the existing door off the hinges and relegting it to the basement! I love this solution; however, I have one ferret that can jump over the height I can comfortably step over. I’ve therefore had to make further modifications. Additionally, you may find that your critters prefer to make the corner behind the door into their favorite toilet, as mine have. If you have enough room for a box behind the door, you’re all set. However, my door is in a corner. This means you can’t open a regular door AND have a box there! Again - I pitched the door in favor of a stationery half door. As I continue to recommend, other ferret owners (myself included) can give you their suggestions for your particular situation.

Your bed: there are two dangers I’ll mention. First - making a hammock out of the cambric (OR DUST COVER!) of the box spring. Since it’s attached and you can’t wash it, it will inevitably become stinky. Also - it can be dangerous to have critter up among the wood and metal - in case you like to flop around in bed. I suggest purchasing the most inexpensive flat sheet (the size of your bedding) you can find - then stapling it to the bed frame; thereby making a tear resistant covering. Another danger, although rare, is critter actually getting in between the mattress and box spring. You come home and flop down - EEK! Keeping critter out of the box spring will help…but pay attention to your particular bed design. If you have a waterbed or otherwise more accessible bed - make sure to find critter before taking that leap!

Another thing to keep in mind is that your closet is full of things you dont’ want your critters to have access to. Shoes most importantly, but your clothes as well. My Yoda used to like to climb my long dresses to access the higher shelves. EEK! What a disaster that was for one dress in particular! Shoes are the worst. Invariably you have some rubber or leather soled shoes. A favorite toy of nearly every weasel. Not only will your shoes look a little funny with chunks missing out of them - but this can be a real danger to the ferret. Ferrets will chew off and swallow pieces of rubber, which can cause a blockage. This can quickly turn into a costly - if not FATAL - condition for your critter. While it’s funny to let ‘em investigate a nice pair of boots, you should never leave them unsupervised while doing so. Never let your critter chew the bottom of your shoes! It’s just too risky.

Modifications: The Kitchen

There are several dangers to your critter lurking in the kitchen. Nonetheless, they can have access - after you take some precautionary steps. Indeed this can be one of the best room to hold play sessions. You can have the weasel with you while cooking (watch under your feet now), and dining - and usually folks have vinyl, tile or low loop carpet (easy accident cleanup!). There are several things to look for. The refridgerator is certainly a danger. There are usually screw legs on the bottom - which you can use (get some help now) to lower the fridge right down to the floor. In addition, you must block off entry to the back of the fridge (can get into the motor or near hot coils that way). You can use any method you dream up - 2" x 4" usually works best. (You can screw down the legs so the fridge sits on the floor, use wood to block off access to the back of appliances and always keep the toilet closed - then access can be just fine. One other area to remember: up under the toe kick of many cabinets are small holes your weasel may be able to fit through. These also need to be blocked off. You may think it’s cute that he crawls in there - until you need to get him out fast! Impossible!

Modifications: The Bathroom

The bathroom presents danger as well. Specifically the toilet, but you must also think about possible broken glass and chemical ingestion. You think you’re being smart and keeping your weezil out of danger when you close the toilet lid. Little did you imagine that he will then use this devise as a platform to the sink. The countertop usually holds all sorts of things you don’t want your weezil to get into - or knock off. Hairspray nozzles can be depressed with crafty tooth action, glass jars can be pushed right off the counter, chemicals can be ingested. Ferrets also like the taste of soap! While I’m sure a couple licks off a good old Ivory bar is no worse than we humans did when we were young…don’t expect your ferret to use moderation. My Yoda is so fond of soap I’m sure he’d eat a whole box if he could get some. Lotions and other products are often scented with wonderous fragrances - which also seem appealing. Because they can seem SO TASTY (even come in chewy plastic tubes sometimes, make sure to keep all your personal products put away and off the counter.

The tub is often an object of great interest and mystery to ferrets. They just LUV the sound the water makes while you’re showering - but are HORRIFIED to learn that WATER is making that delightful sound! I often let the critters into the tub and run about two inches of water down at the deep end for them to play in. Often they’ll have a drink and perhaps splash a bit. Be cautious with your ferret the first time you put him in the tub. Many a weasel has FREAKED out upon being placed in the tub…so don’t assume yours will like it.

If your critter seems to like the water and splashes his whole self in it, run a couple of inches in the whole tub for him. Many ferrets love to "swim" - or so I’m told (I certainly don’t have any like this). I did have a guest that REALLY wanted to see what the shower was all about. When he’d stand up, his nose would just touch the curtain. He kept trying to climb me when I was about to get in…but I’m not a morning person and had no time to play. Finally he took matters into his own hands…and one morning came flying into the tub! He must have had one heck of a running start. There he was - all happy to finally get there…then I moved and he got soaked! AIEEE! He was MORTIFIED! Out he went…and sulked for about a day. But soon he was back to being interested…to make a long story short, he eventually did join me for showers without too much horror. Why would he put himself through all this? I don’t know…perhaps it’s like a human trying to champion a phobia…whatever the reason, it was fun for us both!

Just make sure to supervise your ferret when they’re in water. I’ve spoken to folk who take ‘em in the pool even (even put little swim arm balloons around their waist and let ‘em go hee hee) - just be careful.

The Price of Beauty

• Mother, what have I done to deserve this ???
• No, dear, I’m not going to cut off your whole finger…now HOLD STILL!
• Will_you_stop_poking_that_damn_thing_in_my_ear!!!
• Um…just what are you trying to do to my mouth, woman?

Mother, what have I done to deserve this? (aka The Bath of Despair)

Yes, you can and should bathe your ferret - and is indeed the most evil thing you can do to a weasel. Nothing is more pathetic than a wet, shivering weasel (who is doing it on purpose to make you feel AS GUILTY AS THE HORRIBLE, SADISTIC HEATHEN THAT YOU ARE, don’t you know). Rest assurred you really don’t need to bathe often. In fact, if you overbathe you may end up with stinky weezil! Plan to wash critter no more than once in two weeks. I usually bathe once a month as routine, and of course if critter gets into something and gets dirty. There are many methods of weezil washing. You’ll just have to practice to find the method that results in smallest amount of blood loss for yourself. There are some things to keep in mind:

• Ferrets have a higher body temperature than us - so make sure the water is a bit warmer.
• Always use a good shampoo. I prefer a type I’ll talk about later - but kitten friendly or tear free is very important.
• Don’t give a bath until at least two days after you cut nails - or you could be in for some serious flesh wounds!
• NEVER submerge your ferret’s head into water!

I’ve bathed critters in the bathroom sink, kitchen sink and taken them in the shower. Depends on what the critter will tolerate. Make sure to run the water in advance of inserting critter to minimize stress. With careful handling, you should not have to scruff weasel during the bath. I let critter stand up in the sink, with one of my hands supporting his standing (and shaking and looking oh-so-pathetic) body. The other hand pours water over critter and applys shampoo. Remember - the critter is not enjoying this. Just suds ‘em and rinse ‘em - quick as you can. Once critter is all soaped, I then wet the face with my fingers. Again with the shampoo - then I rinse the face first. The body rinses quickly - then it’s a race for a towel. I recommend purchasing an attachment for your faucet - the kind with the little plastic shower nozzle on the end. These are inexpensive and will help you rinse critter without getting his head under the faucet.

After critter is rinsed, you may help dry with a quick rub of the towel - but after that, critter will most likely want to finish the job himself. A towel and a floor is all you need - watch the fur fly! The supreme indignation of the whole mess is then taken out on the job of getting dry. It’s a rub fest - with anything they can find. Certainly a good idea to confine their area at this point - and remove anything they could get dirty in! They will rub on the floor, the walls, the door, the stuff…anythign but the towel sometimes. They will also be very mad at you and ignore you completely. They will get over this, don’t worry. There is hope after a bath. Once weasel is dry and oh-so-fluffy, he will only stay like that for about two days. Then it’s back to sleek and musky. This is just the way ferrets are - don’t overdo it if you don’t care for the natural scent.

I like to use an Oatmeal Shampoo for all my weasels. I started using it when Sophie started having extremely itchy skin due to adrenal problems, but I love it and use it for all now. Pet Essentials Oatmeal Shampoo for Dogs and Cats. I found it at Meijers (like Walmart, etc.) and it’s not expensive. It’s purports to be akin to an aveeno bath for the furbearing, but I like it because it doesn’t overdry and rinses off rather well. I also use Resi-Soothe, which is available from your vet. This is called a conditioner, but I say it’s more like a hand lotion. You can use after a bath or after lightly misting critter; it goes on like a very light hand lotion (not greasy at all). Again, I began to use this for Sophie - but everyone gets it now.

You can use any of the pet shampoos on the market - but I urge you to shop around. Some of them are just icky. It is important to use a pet friendly shampoo, as human shampoo just tends to overdry the coat. There are also a host of "smell" type sprays and such out there. Heavy perfumes are not good for the critter, powders, soaps and sprays are just temporary fixes, in my experience. I can’t stress enough that there is no way to rid critter of his natural musk smell; bathing too often or with weird products won’t do anything at all. Keeping the environment clean is the key to low odor, not altering the weasel.

No, dear, I’m not going to cut off your whole finger…now HOLD STILL! (aka Nail Trimming)

Nail Clipping is quite the adventure. You need to clip about once every two weeks. If you don’t clip often enough, the quick of the nails will grow - making future clippings more difficult. Nails that are too long can also impede walking and get snagged on a host of items. You may also find that a critter can do more damage to you and your belongings if the nails are too long. Of course, nails don’t have to be neglected to get caught on something - even to the point of being ripped out! Clyde did this when he was a baby just walking across the carpet. You know how animals are…he freaked out and just tore away - literally! Now his nail grows in all funny. If your critter does manage to pull one out, you should clean and dress the area. Wash with peroxide at the sink, then apply some stypic powder (from your vet, if not from your drugstore). If it stops bleeding on it’s own, that’s about all you have to do (besides monitor for any infection). Of course, if you see that it’s really bleeding or becomes red with suspected infection, do see your vet for treatment.

Definitely get yourself a pair of kitty or ferret nail scissors. A good pair may cost you as much as $20.00 but they’re worth it. Before you start - get yourself and your weasel under a good light and learn what to look for. Look at a nail. See the pink vein in the middle? You do not want to cut into this! Now that you know what to look for, arm yourself with scissors in your good hand and your weasel by the scruff in the other. Carefully clip the excess white part of the nail. Be prepared for critter to flinch - you may have to adjust your hold. Of course a friend is helpful your first time out. When you have finished all the nails, do be sure to give a treat. That should make everything all better. If you have a friend handy (or incredibly dexterity), you can file the nails once you’re done clipping. Look for any split pieces that should be filed - or just generally round each nail. If you are single like me and have no suckers - I mean friends - to help you, then I suggest a scratching devise be offered after the adventure. Of course, critter will re-sharpen his nails on his own if you don’t accommodate him…just make sure not to do any other awful thing to him until at least two days later. Freshly clipped nails are incredibly razor sharp - and you’ll be sorry!

Will_you_stop_poking_that_damn_thing_in_my_ear!!! (aka Ear Cleaning)

Keeping your ferrets ears clean is very important. You will want to be on the lookout for ear mites, which are uncomfortable to the critter and stinky to you. Yes, a ferret with ear mites can STINK!!!!! In fact, many people who think their ferret smells bad are actually smelling an infested critter! Of course your critters discomfort is what you should be concerned with. I remember the first time Clyde had some mites. He would run around listing to one side because his ear troubled him so much. There are treatments available from your vet to champion the mites, so if you suspect them do pay your vet a visit.

I recommend an alcohol based ear cleaner. Others may recommend baby oil or mineral oil, but I feel the residue will just collect more junk. The alcohol cleaners work much better in my experience. Get yourself quite a few q-tips and get to work. I’m sure you will have to scruff critter for this. Gently rub the q-tip around the ear folds. Do not stick the tip into the ear - you could damage the works! Your goal is to gently rub off accumulated wax. What you should see is reddish-brown colored waxy goop on the end of the swab - and not heaping gobs of it, just a smudge on the tip.

If your swab comes out of the ear covered with black/red/brown gucky stuff that stinks, chances are critter has mites. In some cases you can take this same swab, hold it very still under a strong light and see the little buggers moving around (tiny white dots). Yes, this is disgusting, but your vet has treatments available (usually in drops). You’ll have to clean and clean and critter will not like it, but he’ll be far happier mite-free. You should normally clean the ears every week to two weeks.

Um…just what are you trying to do to my mouth, woman? (aka Tooth Brushing)

Well…some say yes, some say no. I say yes. After all - you wouldn’t trim nails or clean ears in nature, ‘eh? Now, no one is suggesting you brush them as you would brush your own, even though there is malt flavored toothpaste on the market. I found the critter was so busy trying to eat the toothpaste I couldn’t get anything accomplished. I like the little finger brushes (check your pet supply). You kind of just rub the teeth with it. The outside of the tooth is what builds up tartar quickest - so it’s ok to get your finger thingie up under the gums and rub away.

Your vet can also scale the teeth as needed. This is like having your own teeth scraped at the dentist. I do recommend doing this - how often depends on the critter and your vet. We’ve done some of mine once a year, while others haven’t needed it so frequently. Then there’s my Rhett: he likes to eat everything on one side of his mouth, the side he can’t clean for some odd reason. He always has lots of yuck in his teeth and all over his lips and chin. Dont’ ask me what’s up with this little oddity…but his teeth need more attention than others.

If your critter breaks a tooth, most likely a fang, you should bring it up to your vet. It may or may not need to be removed. If just the tip is broken off, then it may discolor but pose no problem to critter. However, if the tip breaks far enough into the root channel, there will be a hole at the end of the fang. This can lead to infection. An infection going up through the tooth can get to the brain - so do have your vet advise you. My Floyd currently has the latter type of chip. However, rather than remove the fang right now, we’ve decided to observe carefully and DAILY for signs of infection.

As your critter ages his teeth will discolor. This is normal and is just part of aging. Babies have crystal white teeth, young adults have a more mellow white to off-white hue, middle aged adults will have a yellowish cast to most of their teeth, older adults will have darkening yellow to brown on their back chopper and the truly aged can have all sorts of shades of brown and yellow. Normal aging discoloration does not mean that your critters teeth are rotten. My leia sports black on her upper middle choppers. They’ve been scaled each year I’ve had her (got her in middle age) but the color remains. As long as they’re healthy!

My vet recommends a dry kibble for optimum tooth maintenance. Some folks say hogwash at dry kibble having anything to do with teeth health - but then again, dry kibble is the best diet so you’d give it anyway. Sometimes certain shaped kibbles are harder than others for weasel teeth. Mine seem to have trouble with Science Diet, for example. A fine food, but they often shoot the kibbles right across the floor trying to bite into them. As always, see what’s best for your critter -keeping in mind teeth are only one reason not to feed a wet food diet.

But wait - there's much more to come!!! Check back again soon!!! :)

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