Home Improvement Tips
Septic Tanks
Homes not connected to municipal sewers typically have their own septic system The system consists of a tank and a leach field. Waste water from the house flows to the tank, where the solids settle to the bottom and the liquids (effluent) are directed to a leach field. The earth in the leach field gradually absorbs the effluent. Bacterial action takes place in the septic tank and reduces the amount of solids. An overtaxed system will result in a tank full of solids and a wet leach field (typically the back yard). With proper care a septic system will function with little attention from the homeowner. Don't pour grease down the drains. Don't flush excessive paper products, such as disposable diapers. Don't pour solvents or strong chemicals down the drain as they may interfere with the bacterial action. Expect to have the solids pumped out of the tank periodically, perhaps every two years.
Wallpaper Stripping
Rehabbing old homes and not-so-old homes often involves stripping wallpaper. This tedious job is universally disliked. Although wallpaper can be papered or painted over, eventually it has to come off. You can rent steamers, but they dump large amounts of moisture into the house. Try the spray-and-scrape method first. Using either a small hand-misting bottle or a garden sprayer containing hot water, saturate the area to be removed. Several applications might be required. When the paper is well soaked, start scraping with a wide putty knife. Patience is the key. Keep the unscraped areas saturated. If the wallpaper has been painted, a small hand tool that perforates the paper may be needed. The perforations allow the water to get to the wallpaper. For particularly tough jobs, you can buy stripping solutions at most paint stores. Rumor has it that fabric softener added to the water alsoworks well.
Cement Board
Cement board is a great product for novice tile setters. The professionals often lay a "mud bed" on floors and walls before setting tile. This requires skills that most homeowners don't have. Cement board is an acceptable alternative to a mud bed and can be installed by most people with average construction skills. The cement board is cut much like drywall, except you need a carbide-tipped scoring tool. Special screws are available for attaching the board to subfloors or framing, but long roofing nails are acceptable. Cement board has one smooth side and one rough side. It doesn't really matter which side is up unless the board is being adhered to a concrete floor or wall. In that case, place the rough side down for betteradhesion.
Seasonal Maintenance
As the seasons change, our thoughts turn to the structure that will afford us protection from the winter wind. Fall is the time to get our house in order. Don't consider raking leaves until the gutters have been cleaned. Winter is the worst time to have the gutters clogged up. As we change from cooling to heating, consider having your heat and air equipment serviced. At a minimum change the filters. If the chimneys haven't been inspected for a few years, now is the time. Take the time to walk around the outside of the house. Any repairs needed should be done now rather than later in a snowstorm.
Ventless Fireplaces
Relatively new to the market is the ventless fireplace. These devices are grown-up kerosene heaters. The attractive feature is, of course, their lack of a vent. They can be installed in almost room with no regard to a chimney or flue. If you have or are considering one, be sure you understand them. While they do burn very efficiently, they still can contribute small amounts of pollutants to the air you breathe. They also introduce water vapor, a by-product of combustion, into the living space. Do not consider them as a source of central heat as they are not designed for that use. Be cautious when using one.
Oil or Latex?
When preparing to repaint, it is useful to know what type paint is already on the surface. Typically it is best to repaint with a similar paint. Often oil-based paint will go over latex-based paint, but usually latex over oil is not recommended. Walls in most houses are probably latex, but when it comes to the woodwork a determination is harder to make. One way to solve the mystery is by rubbing the painted surface with a rag soaked in mineral spirits. Typically latex paint will come off on the rag, but notoil-based paint.
Fast Fixes
Plumbing leaks never happen at a convenient time, but with a little forethought an emergency can be avoided. Keep a selection of hose clamps, C-clamps and pipe clamps on hand. Often a temporary repair can avert a disaster. All repairs start with shutting off the water and possibly draining the pipe. Leaks can occur in the pipe itself or in a connection. Leaks in the pipe can often be handled with a hose clamp and a section of rubber hose or inner tube. Put the rubber over the leak and tighten the clamp down over the spot that is leaking. Similarly a C-clamp can be used for a temporary repair. Put a small block of wood between the rubber and the clamp, and then tighten. For leaks on threaded fittings, epoxy might be the best bet. Make sure the area is dry and clean. Mix the epoxy according instruction and allow adequate time for hardening. On drain lines this method can be considered a permanent fix. Remember most of these methods are temporary -- be sure to come back and fix the leaks permanently.
HVAC Terms
Heating, Ventilating and Air Conditioning (HVAC) systems are essential to our comfort and well being. Knowing some to the terms associated with this equipment might help in understanding its functioning or enable us to better understand the technicians that service these systems. -BTU (British Thermal Unit) -- Technically the amount of energy required to raise the temperature of one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. This term is used to indicate the capacity or heating and cooling systems. -SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio). -- This compares the amount of cooling produced to the amount of electricity used. The higher the number, the more efficient the equipment. Ten (10) SEER is the bottom of the scale. -The compressor and condenser are in the unit located outside the house. The evaporator is housed inside the furnace or air handler inside the house. Ask questions if you don't understand what's going on. A good service technician should be happy to answerquestions.
Tightening Electrical Wires
Whenever replacing switches, receptacles, or any device where the wire is secured under a screw, be sure the wire is looped properly under the screw. All screws on electrical devices are right-handed, meaning that, when facing the screw, turning to the right or clockwise will tighten it, and turning to the left or counterclockwise will loosen it. Loop the wire in a clockwise direction so that when the screw is tightened it will also tighten the loop. If you are working with stranded wire, tighten the stripped end of the wire by turning it in a clockwise direction with your fingers or a pair of pliers before making any connections. As always, if you are unsure of what you are doing, consult a qualified electrician.
Drill Trick
Eventually everyone doing home repairs will have to remove a screw that has been painted over. This most commonly occurs when removing door or cabinet hinges. The slots and screw heads are all full of paint, making removal difficult. A typical reaction is to try and knock the paint out of the slot with the edge of the screwdriver. Sometimes this works, but more often it results in damage to the screw, door, or nearby finger. Next time you encounter this problem try this: Chuck a four-penny nail into the drill and carefully drill out the paint.
Preventing Paint Drips
The object of painting is to put paint on a wall or other surface and nowhere else. This simple charge is not so easy to accomplish. There are many tools and methods that can be employed when trying to do a neat paint job. Here is one more for the arsenal. When working out of a gallon paint can, place it on a lid off a five-gallon drywall bucket. The rim on the lid will contain any paithat runs down the outside of the can and most drips will land on the lid rather the surrounding surface.
Sponge Worthy
Applying a finish to a surface is a common task around the house. It may be paint on walls or woodwork or polyurethane on the floor. Regardless of the project, preparation is at least half the job. A clean, dry surface free of loose debris is essential. Sanding is typically involved in the preparation either to smooth the surface and remove old finish or to give the surface "tooth," which helps the new finish bond to the old. There are as many ways to sand as there are projects. Consider a sanding sponge the next time you are working on non-flat surfaces. Sanding sponges are literally sponges with grit bound to their surface. They work great when prepping woodwork as they conform to the profile of the molding. Look for sanding sponges at the hardware store, home center, or paint store.
Saddle Valve
The saddle valve is a great plumbing device that is used to tap into a water line without turning off the water. Probably the most common use around the house is on the icemaker supply line. They are also commonly used when hooking up an instant hot water dispenser or a humidifier on the furnace. The valve and its rubber gasket are clamped around the water line in the open position. As the valve is closed, a needle pierces the water line. A copper or plastic line is attached to the valve with a compression fitting and run to the appliance. When the valve is opened, the needle retracts and water flows to the appliance.
Painting Natural Woodwork
As styles and tastes change, so does the way we paint and decorate our homes. Natural woodwork and cabinets come and go in style, and often people wish to paint a surface previously left natural. Proper preparation will help insure successful results. The most common mistake made is painting over a natural finish that has not been made ready for paint. The results may look good, but over time the paint will easily chip off. The goal is to apply a new finish that will bond to the old. Sanding or stripping the old finish to bare wood is possible but usually impractical. Sanding a surface to take the gloss off it will work in situations where the surface won't receive much wear and tear. For best results, start with "liquid sandpaper," which will soften the existing finish. Prime with a bonding primer and finish with one or two topcoatsof paint.
Four-Way Switch Terminology can be misleading, as is the case with light switches. A single switch controlling a light is simply called a switch. When a light is controlled from two different locations, there are two switches and they are called 3-way switches. When a light is controlled from more than two locations, the switches are called 4-way switches. A 3-way switch will have three terminals, and a 4-way switch will have four terminals. If you can wire a 3-way switch circuit, a 4-way is a snap. The 4-way switch simply interrupts the two wires that run between the 3-way switches (travelers). As always, if you are unsure about electricity, seek qualified help.
Ladder Socks
The leaves are falling and winter is gathering steam in much of the country. The fall is one of the driest times of the year and perfect for outside activities like touch-up painting, window cleaning, changing screens to storms, and cleaning out the gutters. The common thread in these chores is a ladder. As the ladder is moved around and leaned against the house, it may leave marks. Aluminum ladders are the worst. While there are ladder accessories that may help remedy this problem, the answer may lay in your sock drawer. Get out a pair of old socks and pull one over the top of each side rail of the ladder. This will provide a softer landing where the ladder leans against the house. Remember -- following safe ladder practices will helpinsure a productive day.
Repointing
Repointing or tuckpointing is the process of renewing the mortar that holds bricks together. If you live in a new house you will probably never have to worry about it, but as a home ages the mortar slowly loses its strength, and eventually it will need attention. If your home is 50 to 60 years old or older, periodically check all brickwork for signs of wear. A homeowner can make minor repairs, but major or chimney work should be left to a professional. When repointing, clean out all old loose mortar, and then dampen the area of repair. Pack the mortar joint with fresh mortar using a tuckpointing trowel. A word of warning -- if you are attempting restoration of an older building, mortar and brick of 100 years ago are different from materials used today. It is important that those doing the workunderstand the difference.
Refrigerator Doors
If you are annoyed that the hinges on your refrigerator are on the wrong side, chances are good that the door can be reversed. Look on the top front corners of the refrigerator for some plastic plugs or caps. Remove these to expose the holes needed for mounting the hinge and handle hardware opposite its present location. With help, unfasten the handle and door and move the hardware to the opposite side of the refrigerator. Adjust the door for proper closing and tighten down the fasteners. Complete the job by taking those caps and plugs and inserting them into the hardware holes vacated by the hinge and handle.
Toilet Seat
Replacing a toilet seat is an easy task and legitimate excuse for hugging the commode. Typically there are plastic caps covering the bolts that fasten the hinge to the bowl. Pry these caps up with a screwdriver to expose the bolts. Some bolts are plastic and can be removed by turning the screws with a large screwdriver. Some bolts are metal, and a wrench or pliers will be required to turn or hold the nut under the bowl. If they are corroded, spraying WD-40 will help free things up. If it still won't budge, get out a hacksaw blade, wrap tape or a rag around one end to make a handle, and work the blade between the hinge and the top of the bowl. Hold the bottom of the bolt with pliers and saw the top off. Most bolts are brass and not too tough. Clean things up and install the new seat.
Thermostat Tip
The new set back thermostats are a great boon to energy efficiency. If you are replacing an old thermostat, remember these tips. When removing the old one, spread the wires out so they don't fall down into the wall. Before installing the new unit, plug the hole in the wall that the wires come through with caulk or foam to prevent a draft that would affect operation of the new thermostat. Be sure to mount the new thermostat level, and always follow the manufacturers' directions.
Dishwasher Rx
Dishwashers work tirelessly and seldom give us problems, but with a little attention these long-lived appliances can last even longer. Periodically remove the kick plate at the front bottom of the dishwasher and look for water leaks. Catching one early might save a floor repair. While under there, get out the vacuum and clean out the dust, especially around the motor. If the dishes don't seem to be getting as clean as they used to, inspect the spray heads, usually located at the bottom inside the unit. If they appear to have calcium deposits, they are probably plugged up. If you can remove them, soak them in vinegar to dissolve the deposits. Finally check the gasket on the door. If it is getting hard or cracked, a replacement can be found at an appliance parts supply house.
Plumbing Tip
Here's two plumbing tips for the price of one. When working on a sink faucet, regardless of the particular task, the first thing to do is close the drain and cover it with a rag. This will save you from losing parts down the drain when working on the faucet. If you didn't cover the drain before starting work, you will probably find yourself disassembling the drain trap under the sink to retrieve the parts you dropped down the drain. If you have to open the trap, remember to put a small bucket under it to catch the water. Also remember not to empty the bucket in the sink until the drain is reassembled.
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