Wind Spirit Farms Goats
The little Cameroon goats were exported from Africa to zoos in Sweden and Germany where they were on display as exotic animals. From there they made their way to England, Canada, and the United States. in 1959, the Rhue family (California) and the Catskill Game Farm (New York) received the first documented shipments of Pygmy Goats from Sweden. These original animals were purchased from German zoos and through a complicated arrangement of transporting them to Sweden, a country that was on the approved list for imports by the United States Department of Agriculture, they were allowed into the United States. Offspring of these animals, as well as earlier imports, were sold to zoos, medical research, and to some private individuals.
By the 1970's interest in the Pygmy goat began to grow to the point that registries for the Pygmy goats were established to define breed type and encourage the breeding of pure Pygmies. In 1975 the incorporated National Pygmy Goat Association was formed.
In the 1980's the Pygmy goat popultaion began to experience a significant increase, as did membership in the National Pygmy Goat Association. Today, as the number of goats increase, so do the number of shows in which they may be exhibited.
Pygmies were first imported into the United States in 1959 and they are now raised mainly as pets. Their even temperaments and love of being with people and other animals has won the hearts of America! Goats are believed to be some of the earliest domesticated animals.
Housing requirements for Pygmy Goats are simple. A draft-free 8' x 10' shed with bench type sleeping available and feeding places will accommodate four adult animals. An attached outside enclosure with at least 4' high fencing will provide the fresh air and exercise pygmies need. They love to play and enjoy something to balance and climb on. Pygmies are herd animals and do not like being alone.
A good basic diet for a pygmy is roughage in the form of hay with bark, brush and dry leaves where available and supplemented, when needed, with grain in the form of a commercial sweet feed. If grain is given it should be increased during pregnancy and lactation. Many types of bushes and trees are poisonous to goats. The NPGA has a list of poisonous plants available.
Following a gestation period of 5 months, pygmies bear one to four young every nine to twelve months, depending on choice of the breeder. Does are usually bred for the first time at about 12-15 months. They can conceive as early as two months if you do not separate them early from bucks. Newborn kids will nurse almost immediately and begin nibbling on hay within a week. They are weaned by eight to twelve weeks of age.
Many people enjoy milking their pygmies. Mature females may produce four or more pounds of sweet milk of 6-9% butterfat at the peak of a four to six month lactation period.
Tattooing of your goat is very important for the identification of your goat and is required for recording a Grand Champion win at NPGA shows. Most County and State Fairs require tattooing of all participants.
Even well fed, properly housed goats need to be groomed. Good grooming includes frequent brushing with a good brush. Even an old hair brush works good. A bath during warm weather helps to control external parasites. For surer protection of lice, powder your animals in the fall and spring with a livestock dust that has either Sevin or Malathion as the active ingredient.
Goat's hooves grow rapidly. They can become bent, cracked or infected unless you trim them properly. Hooves should be trimmed every 6-8 weeks.
Concerning the Pygmy Goat Breed Standard, the NPGA literature states that: "The Pygmy Goat is genetically small, cobby and compact. It is full-barrelled and well-muscled, the body circumference in relation to height and weight is proportionately greater than that of other breeds. Mature animals measure between 16 and 23 inches at the withers (shoulder blades to ground). Head and legs are short relative to body length. Genetic hornlessness is considered a disqualifying fault. However, disbudded (dehorned) or horned goats are acceptable."
"Preferred colors range from white through black with grey agouti being predominant. Muzzle, forehead, eyes and ears are accented in lighter tones. Front and rear hoofs and cannons (socks) are black, as are the crown and dorsal stripe. Random markings are acceptable in limited amounts and characteristics locations. Coat length and density vary with climates, making the Pygmy Goat equally at home in the desert or in the northern tundra."
Coat - The full coat of straight, medium-long hair which varies in density with seasons and climates. On females, beards may be non-existent., sparse, or trimmed. On adult males, abundant hair growth is desirable; the beard to be full, long and flowing, the copious mane draping cape like across the shoulders.
Color - All body colors are acceptable, the predominant coloration is a grizzled (agouti) pattern produced by the intermingling of light and dark hairs, of any color. See recognized color choices below.
Markings -
A. Breed -specific markings are required: muzzle, forehead, eyes, and ears are accented in tones lighter than the dark portion of the body in goats of all colors, except goats that are solid black. Front and rear hoofs and cannons (socks) are darker than main body coat, as are the crown, dorsal stripe, and martingale; except in goats that are solid black. On all caramel goats, light vertical stripes on front sides of darker socks are required.
B. Optional markings: light areas (on darker backgrounds) that appear as complete or partial girth belts are acceptable.
CARAMEL PATTERNS All have light vertical stripes on front side of darker stockings. Muzzle, forehead, eyes and ears accepted in tone lighter than the darker portion of the body.
LIGHT CARAMEL - White or caramel hairs, intermingled with white in the undercoat making the top coat color appear to be a shade of pure white to cream.
MEDIUM CARAMEL - Caramel and white hairs intermingled in the undercoat making the top coat a shade of apricot.
DARK CARAMEL - White hairs intermingled with darker caramel / buff or brown hairs in the undercoat making the top coat a shade close to a medium tan.
BROWN CARAMEL - Brown mainly with only occasional intermingled white hairs in the undercoat making the topcoat a pronounced darker brown.
AGOUTI PATTERNS - All agoutis have solid stockings darker than main body color. Muzzle, forehead, eyes, and ears accented in tones lighter than the dark portion of the body.
LIGHT GREY AGOUTI - Black and white hairs intermingled with slightly more white hairs to give a light grey color, making the topcoat silver in shade.
MEDIUM GREY AGOUTI - Black and white hairs intermingled in equal amounts giving the topcoat a blacker appearance close to an equal amount of salt and pepper.
DARK GREY AGOUTI - Darker grey appearance with fewer white hairs, but still a salt and pepper appearance that is pronounced.
BLACK AGOUTI - Black mainly with only occasional intermingled white hairs.
LIGHT BROWN AGOUTI - Light / silver grey hairs intermingled with white and with brownish tips to main body hairs, making the topcoat appear a burnt silver shade.
MEDIUM BROWN AGOUTI - Brown and white hairs intermingled in equal amounts giving the topcoat a browner salt and pepper appearance.
DARK BROWN AGOUTI - Brown hairs intermingled with fewer white hairs, but still a salt and pepper appearance that is a pronounced darker brown.
BROWN AGOUTI - Brown mainly with only occasional intermingled white hairs.
BLACK PATTERNS - All blacks have solid black stockings.
BLACK - Solid black except for muzzle, forehead, eyes, and ears accented in tones lighter than the darker portion of the body.
SOLID BLACK - All black with no lighter accented areas.
