Cool things about fixed gear bicycles
WHAT IS A FIXED GEAR BICYCLE?
Fixed Gear. 1x1. Fixie. Scorcher. "Old school". The names are as varied as the bikes themselves. There are lightweight, futuristic-looking fixed gears, track bikes capable of what seems to us mortals to be Warp Speed. Then there are bikes with lazily low gearing and upright roadster-style handlebars, that seem more comfortable cruising around town, perhaps with a cup of cappucino or plain ol' java in one hand. There are rides with "cowhorn" handlebars that have a racy look, but middle-range gears for all day riding; off-roaders with seemingly impossibly low gearing and wide tires; there are all-around bikes, converted hybrids with moustache or inverted roadster bars, commuters with baskets and racks, vintage road bikes with glorious chrome, given new life with the fixed gear.
[above: My Panasonic fixed gear as of early August, with cowhorn bars and 40x16 gearing]
Once upon a time, all bicycles were "fixed gear". That is to say, they had one speed and couldn't coast. Riders accelerated and decelerated by using their pedaling speed -- faster to go faster, and slower to slow down. Sometimes hand brakes were used to aid in stopping, but not always. In the early 1900's, the Tour De France was done on Fixed Gears -- and the Tour of Sommerville, one of the oldest American races right here in New Jersey, was raced up until 1950 on fixed gears.
Today, most "fixed gear" bicycles are track bikes. But there are those who ride fixed gears on the street...
My Panasonic Fixed Gear, built July '04 [40x18].
Picture above is from 7/16/04. As of 7/19/04: The Panasonic now sports a Specialized cyclocomputer to track speed and mileage. In late July/ early August, i put on cowhorn bars w/ a Shimano 105 aero lever... In it's drop bar configuration [as seen above] this bike is featured in the Fixed gear Gallery site as Bike No.991!
More about this bike HERE! The only other recent mods since this picture was taken have been aesthetic, and to the rear wheel; I outlined the head tube lugs in blue and the seatcluster lug in white, in keeping with the bike’s corresponding paint scheme. On July 24, I had a 16 tooth cog installed by the lbs to replace the 18, and somewhat reduce excessive spin on descents and flats...after that i went to cowhorns. Am considering wider [cyclocross or touring style] tires, and would like to buy the tools for cog installation so I don't have to go to the local bike shop!
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My Centurion in it's old configuration [48x18]. This bike now has 39x16 gearing and drop bars. Click HERE for more on it...
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What is a FIXED GEAR bicycle? And why on earth would you ride one?
The most basic way to describe a "fixed gear" is that it is a bicycle which does not coast. But it is so much more.
Many people enjoy riding these machines on the street, either for fitness/training, for commuting, or just fun. They are a favorite of urban messangers due to their ease of control. Unfortunately, the "bad @ss" culture surrounding the Fixed Gear road bike has made it something of a black sheep in the cyclists' stable; many recreational cyclists frown on them, say they are reckless, and that they give cyclists a bad name. Many also have a belief that these machines are only for "hard core" cyclists and fitness freaks. This is a shame, because though not for everyone, a fixed gear machine can be, and is, enjoyed by many people who just ride for fun. I would consider myself to be a "recreational cyclist". I don't count my heartrate or enter races. I seldom ride more than 30 or 40 miles at a time. But I love my fixed gear bike.
So what is a fixed gear? Essentially, a street bike with a track bike drive train.
A track bike, or bicycle designed for racing in a velodrome, has a fixed rear wheel, meaning it does not coast. Both acceleration and deceleration are controlled via the rider's pedaling speed; if he pedels faster the bike will speed up -- if his feet slow down, so does the bike. The rider stops by resisting the motion of the pedals with his legs. Track bikes have different frame angles than a traditional road bike, lower handlebars and higher seat, and the fork blades are round, not oval -- stiffer and not suited to riding on a road, which has uneven surface. While a track bike may be a beautiful machine -- and perhaps the ultimate fixed gear -- it isn't for everyday road riding [although there are some enthusiasts who do ride tracks on the street]. _________
The funky, farfetched Fixed Gear: A bike apart
If you ride one of these, expect some stares... The fixed gear bike is great. But here in New Jersey, they are relatively scarce. Once in Brookline Massachusetts, I stumbled across several; one parked, one being walked by the rider who was talking to a friend. I asked the man if it was a fixed gear; he looked at me like I had found out a closely guarded secret and said it was. Apparently, he did not expect someone to recognize the bike. But then, I wasn’t on my own fixed gear, which had stayed in its warm stable for that winter trip; I was walking myself.
Here in NJ, USA, the fixed gear is definitely a rare sight. The bikes are common in urban areas for their simplicity, traction, and easily-made adjustments in speed. They seem better to control in traffic, as you don’t have to slam on a brake. However, in hilly Union-Morris County, the bikes are rare. Though a fixed gear is a great hill climber for those who know how to do it, the vast majority of suburban cyclists prefer, for the obvious reasons, the artifices of gears. I do admit that on gears you can go faster, especially downhill. However, there is a great simplicity to the fixed gear and it can be great for suburban rides. Unfortunately, they are not often seen. When my fixed gear Bianchi was in its first incarnation – homemade “moustache” bars, front brake and 42x16 gearing, I was often greeted by stares when I parked it somewhere and went to grab a cup of coffee. People asked where the gears were, where did I find such a bike, why did I ride it, etc. The best was when some dude stepped out of a doorway next to the Dunkin Donuts where I parked my steed and asked me “Is that one of those bikes they ride in velodromes?” Needless to say, I tried to explain it, but the closest I came was to say it was a home-built track bike. The term fixed gear got a blank stare.
I was in the LBS one time, waiting while they did something I didn’t have the tools for to my new road bike, and staring lustily at a triathlon bike hanging from the ceiling. It was beautiful. The shop guy went to hang up another bike, and saw me looking. “Like it?” He asked. I commented that it must be as fast as a rocket. He shook his head and said “honestly, I’d rather have your fixed gear." This would be my first fixed gear, the beat up old Bianchi I was almost embarrassed to bring into the shop due to its obviously and poorly touched up paint job, cheap stamped dropouts, and smaller front chainring… Amazing.
Another time, I was in the shop with my fixed gear Panasonic, contemplating installing the 16 tooth cog on the rear wheel to give it a 40x16 instead of 40x18. A man whose Cannondale touring bike was up on the work stand was looking at my ride, which was dirty cause I had ridden in through the rain, and said “I’ve never owned a road bike. That thing must fly. Is it fast?” I indicated the drivetrain, and said it wasn’t that fast, cause it only had one gear. He saw the lack of a rear brake and a flipflop hub and said “Oh, a track bike. Where do you ride?” So I told him – on the street.
Mind you, the purpose of a fixed gear isn’t to go around lecturing others. You can’t convert the geared multitudes. But there will be moments of recognition, where either other fixed geared riders, or other people who at some time or another heard about the bikes, will recognize that your ride is special. Maybe that recognition won’t come off the bike. It may happen as you pass a dude on a Lightspeed going up a steep hill. Stranger things have happened.
It’s all part of the fixed gear riding experience.
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UTILITARIAN TRANSPORT:
If you ride a fixed around town, it can be a great practical bicycle; once you try it, you may never use your car again!
My Centurion [in its current 39x16 configuration] fits this catagory, although I recently put drop bars on it instead of the flat mtb bar, making it suitable for longer rides also. But witht he rack and easy gearing it takes around town rides as easy as rolling hills on a 30-miler. Everyone should have one of these!
Some companies actually make bikes specifically for this purpose; Alternative Needs Transportation [ANT] makes one particular model which is excellent -- and retro in style -- but way too sweet a ride for anound town (they are custom built). Other companies also make them, some of them the same names that manufacture fixed-gear specific bicycles. But the best way to do it is to build up your own.
Around Town Gearing: I've ridden big [52t] and tiny [39t] chainrings. My favorite is the 39x16 [so far!]. Used smaller 16t cogs and the much bigger 18t. For around town riding, in traffic, something like 42 x18 would be good. 40 x 18 and even 39x16 is even better; your acceleration from stoplights is faster than most cars. Gets you outa the way and on your way -- not squished on their bumper! You can experiment with other gearing; most people training on fixies for road riding use a 48 tooth front chainring or thereabouts, but for genreral riding I find my 40x16 is fine. Around town, I'm diggin' 39x16t.
The utilitarian frame: An older lugged frame road bicycle is probably best. Find something that doesn't look too fancy; YOU WANT A BICYCLE THAT RIDES GOOD BUT DOESN'T LOOK IT. If you use the bike for errands, you will be parking it our front of stores, etc. After purchasing needed goods, such as milk, eggs, or cigarettes, you do not want to exit the store and find some bum riding away on your faithful steel steed.
Components: Use a flat mountainbike bar for around town riding; the upright position gives you a better view, is more comfortable, and though it isn't great for climbing, the smaller gearing will help out in that department. anyhow, you won't be riding really fast. Best bet is a front sidepull brake hooked up to a mountainbike lever.
Tires: Use wider tires. Most older road bike frames have generous clearances, so this won't be a problem. bigger tires will take less of a beating and will be more comfortable, and will probably get better traction. The 700x23's you might use on a longer [or faster] road ride aren't a good bet. Use something more like cyclocross or touring tires.
Rack/fenders: Your around town bike should have a rack, and this can be great for carrying all manner of items. Keep two toe clip straps from a pair of old pedals frapped around it. When you need to carry something, you can strap it to the rack. This is also a great way to carry your jacket when you aren't using it; roll it up and strap it to the rack, or under the seat, or to the handlebar. Make sure when installing a rack that it clears the wheel properly. Most older road frames will not have mounts on the seatstays, so you may have to use an older stle rack which mounts to the brake bridge. These look nicer, anyhow, but be careful not to overweight it -- use good judgement. With the addition of side bags, such a bike can handle everything from food shopping to running out to grab a movie at Blockbuster.
Fenders are an option. if you are bothered by rain or dislike cleaning your bike, install fenders. It'll keep your @ss dry and the frame less grimy. But you should still clean your bike after a ride in foul weather.
Other weather proofing tips: Paint the bolt heads on your brake calibers and pads, seatpost binder bolt, handlebar stem, and any bolts for braze-ons such as water bottle mounts or rack/fender bolts. These are steel and though usually chromed, will rust over time. If they have allen heads,make sure to paint inside the recesses of the head! If the inside of the bolt head rusts to much, it will be damaged when you turn it and you could have trouble adjusting or removing the part in question. For additional rust protection, put a dab of oil in the recess.
Clean yer ride: Wipe off your Fixed Gear Bicycle frame and components [cranks, brake calipers and lever, stem, seatpost, etc.] after a ride in the rain. Wipe and then lube the chain, and if you have clipless SDP pedals, put a dab of oil on the mechanism. You should also wipe off yer rims, especially the front one, because brake gunk will accumulate ont he rim with rain and reduce stopping power. It also isn't good for your rim.
Parking tips for foul weather: If you are parking the bike outside, try to park it under an overhang out otherwise out of the rain. If you cannot, cover the seat, using a plastic bag.
Pedals/cranks: What i've said about fixed gears elsewhere upon this page generally holds true here. 170mm cranks or so are good, and clipless pedals can be a godsend. However, if you are going to be parking the bike and walking on longer errands, you might invest in single-sided clipless pedals which can be ridden with regular shoes when the need arises. A word of caution, though: make asure your feet won't slip off!
Seat: This is up to you. If you ride in bicycle shorts, a minimalist design will appeal; if not, something with more padding is in order. Generally, the seat should be positioned slightly higher than the handlebar stem, but this is up to you [and your proportions]. Pic a seat that can get wet! That sweet looking Brooks B17 will be ruined in no time on an around town errand bike [if it isn't stolen!]. Speaking of theft...
Deter theives: If someone really wants to steal your bike they will probably find a way. Use the same tactics you do for yer car; make it difficult enough that a would-be bike theif is discouraged and goes after someone else's ride. A bike will probably still be stolen, but it won't be yours. This is sad, but that's how it goes.
The first deterent is the fact that your bike is a fixed gear. Who wants a bike woth no gears? Most people do not.
Paint yer bike: Paint your bike! It is an oft overlooked fact, but people judge by looks. You can have a bike worth a fortune, but if it looks like crap people will think it is crap. Paint your bike a color that won't stand out. Some advise splashing it randomly, and I have seen bikes like this, but there's no need to ride a bike that looks like junk. However, paint it so it doesn't look like something fancy. Grey, Black, blue, army green, or some other nondescript color. Don't ride something with fancy team racing paint jobs or flashy decals announcing expensive names. Paint something funky one the chainguard -- thieves like expensive-looking bikes, but don't want something that'll make THEM stand out. My Centurion sports "1X1" in white and red on its black paintjob, and the "X" is a skull and corssbones. It looks fugly, but no one's tried to steal it yet!
If you can remove the decals on your frame without damging it, do so. No one wants a "no-name" bike.
Don't use quick release! QR levers are a godsend if you have to change a flat on the road, or if you are toting your bike in the car and need to remove a wheel [or two] to get it in. But a bike parked somewhere with a quick release wheelset will quickly become a bike with no wheelset. Someone can just walk away [literally] with your wheels. You can replace the hollow quick release axle with a nutted one, or get a set of track wheels [if you bought your fixed rear wheel rather than built it tourself, it probably already has bolts rather than quick release, so your concern is the front]. If you don't want to bolt yer wheels, lock them to the frame. Please. A bike without wheels is a sad thing. Don't use a quick release seatpost either! If you are like me, you probably have more quick release seatpost binder bolts than you do allen wrench ones in your spare parts bin. However, when building your errand bike, take the time to dig out a non-qr seatpost bolt! You don't want someone swiping yer seat.
Locks: This is the most overlooked fact: Most stolen bikes aren't locked in the firstplace, which is why they are stolen [DUH!]! Take the time to lock your bike. This doesn't have to ding up the bike! The best technique is to lean the non-drive side of the bicycle against a lamppost. Make sure the crank on the side facing the post is parallel to the chainstay with the pedal facing the back of the bike. Lean the bike so the pole is against the crank surface at the bottom and the side of the seat at the top. It won't touch the frame, and the pedal will keep the bike steady and prevent it from rolling. Take a lock with a plastic-covered cable (chains ding up your frame) and lock the top tube to the post. Rest the lock on top of the seat or under the seat rails so it doesnt ding the paint. Carry the lock in a small pounch behind your seat -- a swinging lock wrapped around a seat post will scrape off paint and bring on rust, if it doesn't actually dent your bike! If you have a rack on the back of your bike, you lock the lock to that to carry it, but be careful it doesn't dangle and catch in the wheel -- or f*ck up the paint.
Types of locks: I prefer a padlock with a steel cable [the steel cable is plastic coated to protect the bike's finish]. There are other types, and this is the most basic lock. Some people use a Chain, either a thin one or a monster thick chain that looks like it should have an achor attached. Bad idea unless you wrap it in something, it'll ruin the bike, but it is harder to cut. Some people also prefer U-locks of the sort popularized by Kryptonite. These are strong, and great for "hi risk" areas -- but again, they can f*ck up yer bike's finish. Unlike a cable lock, a u-lock isn't as versatile; you can only lock it to things that are so big around, etc, etc. And be careful how you carry and lock it unless you want your bike to look like someone keyed it.
It may pay to have two locks, so that you can lock the wheels to the frame by running a cable through them [if you have quick release wheels]. Other locks: Some people will run a thin chain or cable through the seat rails and lock it with a tiny padlock or crimp it together to discourage seat theives. A small enough cable or chain and this doesn't interfere with riding so you don't have to take it on and off. In some areas, it may be advisable to lock your seat or wheels even if they do not have quick release, if you will be away form yer bike for a while. Theives own wrenches too! Lastly, you must choose: Combination or key lock? I prefer key lock because I don't like combos. But you must be aware a key lock can be sabatogued by a rogue soul jamming somehting in the key slot, which could cause you to start walking around looking for some guy with bolt cutters to get your own bike unlocked. Which brings one to the ultimate precaution: Carry a pic of your bike with as current a list of basic specs as possible written on it. The man with the bolt cutters might not believe the bike is yours [DUH!]. This also helps in any arguement, should it be stolen and you have to claim it once recovered. I once had to give a detailed description of a bicycle's parts to prove it was mine after I gave it to an aquaintance of mine, and then he had it stolen -- and caught the theif in the act. The theif said it was his, my aquaintance said it was his, and told the cops he got it from me. Off I went to corroberate his tale. A pic and a list can save countless minutes of hassle by the local blueshirts.
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Current Projects [8/18/04]: Turned a Fuji Sagres into a fixed gear. It's got front cantis and cow-horn bars with a non-aero road brake lever. I just looped the cable back and taped it to the handlebar; when I install the grip tape it'll be covered except for the little loop. The frame has mounts for fenders as well as a rack, and dual water bottle mounts. It is grey with "FUJI" in red on the seat tube and down tube. The frame is very small for me, with a sloping top tube, so I used a long seatpost to get proper leg extension. The sloping frame design should actually spare the crown jewels during hilly dismounts, and fits alright with the cowhorn bars/ longer seatpost setup. Plus the stopping power of cantilever brakes is a plus. The current cranks are triples: 48, 38 or 39, and a granny gear. I'm running the middle and my 16t rear cog. The cowhorns i made out of old drop bars from the 1970's. If i am unable to remove the unuse chainrings on the cranks as i fear they may be rivited, i will use other cranks int he final setup, but I do not have another good set right now so it rides as is. Will eventualyl use clipless spd pedals; for now it has the old platforms that came w/ it. PICS COMING SOON!
Also... My fixed gear Bianchi was my 'round town bike. However, I am working on built up my Centurion -- again. I wanted to repaint it one color -- its blakc and blue now -- but I'm stuck between the idea of olive green, light sand color, or black [the original color] so it stays "as is" for now...
This bike has the flat bar offa my Bianchi, flat stem, and same brake setup as the Bianchi, which will probably be retired as it is pretty beat up. The Centurion got the Bianchi's cranks, running a 39x16. The seatpost from the Bianchi was originally from the Centurion, so it works as well. I will probably leave the fork ends chrome but paint all the rest of the bike eventually... for now it rides sweet. Unliek the Bianchi, this once can take a rack -- fitted with a nice old aluminum Vetta rack and all set. This is SOOO cool... Don't worry, pics will be posted as soon as I take 'em! ______________________________
My fixed gear bicycles:
Fuji Sagres [see Current Projects]: Currently [8/1804] berift of bar tape and using a triple crank and junk pedals, this is a cowhorn bar, small framed fixie with rack mounts, full water bottle mounts and cantileve brakes on the front. Although it uses a non-aero road brake lever, I looped the cable around and am running it along the handlebar. When i install grip tape it will be entuirely covered exceopt for a small one inch loop at the bar tip.
[pictures coming!] SPECS: Homemade cowhorn bars, stem from Raliegh Record, long seatpost of unknown origin; no name seat, stock cantilever brakes. Weinmann road brake lever. Reused stock chain.
This bike will probably end up running a 42 or so gear... I will need to swap out the cranks when i get the chance; currently i do not have any good cranks to use.
The idea behind this bike is to have a good-handling fixie with cantis for hilly descents and bad weather braking. (Plus, cantilever brakes on aroad bike look cool!) I first used inverted cruiser bars and both brakes, but quickly went to cowhorns and front brake only. The small frame, about the lower limit of my size range, actually handles well although it looks tiny; the sloping top tube and overall smaller size give more clearance during dismounts on hills and whilst moving about on the bike in traffic. And the dual water bottle mounts are a plus, as most older bicycles are lucky to have one. With the capability for carrying a rack and even mounting fenders, this could be a great long-haul bike -- in fact when I first got it I intended to turn it into a touring bike, but the frame was too small to mount drop bars without imperiling my knees. The fixed configuration is perfect, however. Plus, it doesn't look like much so the theft risk is lower... ;)
Around the 2001-02 or thereabouts I built my first fixed gear, a Bianchi which I had used as a singlespeed road bike before that. This is still my second fixed gear. Originally 42x16... 
Currently has flat bars and a 39t front chainring.
Then, I built a fixie out of a black Centurion a year or two ago. Ran cowhorns and 48x18, as seen here... After the Trek, it became a retro-bike, as shown here... 
Nicest fixed gear was my Trek 1000 conversion, but virtical dropouts made finding chain tension a b*tch. Finally got it with 43x18. 
I still have the trek, but the rims and other parts have been used for my Centurion, my Bianchi and my Panasonic. I need to get a second set of rims so I can use one of these bikes as well as my Panasonic!
July of 2004, built my Panasonic DX-1000, a nice lugged steel bike. Originally 12-speed, then fixed at 40x18 and now [7/24] fixed at 40x16 with a 16t rear cog. This is a sweet ride!
On 7/27 I built up the Centurion with flat bars, a front brake, and a rack for 'round town... also changed out the cranks. ________
Why to ride a fixed gear?
Racers train of fixies to practice their spin, or cadance. In bad weather, the bikes have better traction than a geared bike. And they are simple and -- more or less - unique. Especially in suburban areas, they are few and far between, although city bike couriers use them and there is a growing "fixed gear" subculture in the bicycle world. But the main reason is they are fun and make you a better cyclist. Because sudden stops are harder on a fixed gear, you have to pace yourself and time things like lights and intersections and be more aware of the road. You learn a lot. Also, by always pedaling, you get the most out of a ride, so the fixie is great for those who work full time [unlike drunk partying college kids] and can only ride during the week for a few hours each day, if that.
An older road bicycle, especially from the 1970's up through the mid 1980's, makes an excellent fixed gear bicycle once converted, and for many fixed gear riders, this is what they start with. Some companies make fixed gear road bikes, but they are expensive. A used bicycle is much cheaper. All you will need to spend money on is the rear wheel -- or parts thereof, if you have mastered the strange art of wheelbuilding. I haven't, so I bought my rear wheel. This is the most expensive part of the bike, from $150up through $250. Get a mid-level wheel. A cheaper one will cost more money over the long run as it will be out of true and need excess maintenance.
Bikes such as old Bianchis, Schwinns, or Raleighs make good fixed gear conversions, if you can find them, especially with those nice-looking lugs. But my favorite are the old Jap bikes. I've built fixed gears out of, in this order: Old Bianchi; bikeboom-era Centurion Le Mans; Trek fixed gear [purchased new in 2000] and a Panasonic DX-1000. Beleive it or not, the Panny, which I got thru a trade, is my current -- and favorite -- fixed gear.
Panasonic DX-1000: Specs-
BIKE: Panasonic DX-1000, Tange 900 double butted tubes, lugged steel frame. Kickin' metallic aqua and white paint scheme.
WHEELS: Matrix front, Mavic open pro rear rim with fixed gear hub and 16 tooth cog [originally 18t cog -- went to 16 on 7/24]. Surly lock ring.
CRANKS: SR Sakae SA 170mm [stock] and original inner ring -- a 40 toother. Only mod was removing 52 tooth ring and replacing chainring bolts with shorter BMX-style ones.
GEARING: 40x16 [originally 40x18]
HANDLEBARS/STEM: Was Sakae CU handlebars; "custom" stem [stock]. On August 1 I added a new stem, the old cowhorn bars offa my old Centurion's setup, and a Simano 105 Aero brake lever.
GRIPS: Had Profile design grip tape, black. New bars [cowhorn or bullhorn style] also got Profile tape. Hey, its cheap and it works.
BOTTLE CAGE: vintage Blackburn aluminum
SEATPOST: was SR [stock], replaced 7/30 with a new "Kalloy" longer one. Hard to find 26.0mm diameter was a pain in the @ss!
SEAT: Was Vetta [the Coda has gone to the Centurion]. On 7/30 I took the seat that had been stock offa my Trek 1000 and installed that on the new seatpost.
PEDALS: Shimano clipless [SPD] M520's BRAKE: Front brake Dia-Compe sidepull. was hooked up to left lever [stock] with right lever hood only for hand position. With cowhorns you don't need the other lever for hand position, so I have a single Shimano 105 aero lever, left side... ADDITIONAL: Sometimes use a black pouch under seat fer my padlock; detatchable lights which I install at night [Planet Bike] on front and back.
CYCLOCOMPUTER: Specialized Sport
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How to build a fixed gear...
This is easy. Want to try a fixed gear? All you need for the minimum are a screwdriver, adjustible wrench, and basic allen wrench set - and a chain tool. That, and an old bike. You can get a chain tool at a bike shop for as little as $15, about what they'd charge you for using their own to do the job...
What to do: First remove the shifter cables by loosening the bolts/or nuts that hold them to the derailers. Then pull the cables out, and the cable housing, where there is one. If they are in decent shape [not frayed or rusty] coil them up, being careful not to fray the ends, and save them. A set of good cables could cost $10 or more at a bike shop and you never know when you'll need them for another project.
Next remove the shifters. If your bike has downtube shifters they may be either clamp-ons or attached to in-frame mounts. Clamp ons make a cleaner looking conversion; just remove the whole unit. It will have to be bent slightly to pull it off w/out scratching the tube of the frame. Bend it back carefully to make sure the holes for the clamp bolt line up and save it for the same reason as the cables. If the shifters are built in, remove then by undoing the screws on which they pivot. There will be stubby mounts underneath that are bart of the frame. Leave them be. If you have handlebar stem shifters, just loosen the bolt in the top of the stem, pul it out, and slip the shifters off. Put the stem back and tighten it at your preferred height but make sure it is not out too far; it should have a minimum insertion marking.
Remove the front and rear derailiers. Save them if they are in good condition.
Next remove the chain. This will be necessary to get the rear derailier off unless you remove one of it's pulley's as the chain threads thru it. The only bike specific tool needed, the chain tool, is a little hand press; turning the crank pushes the pin out of a chain link. Slide the chain out. Then using the allen wrench, remove the bolts from your bike's chainrings. Remove the larger chainring. Put the bolts back in. If they are too long as a result of the other ring being taken off, and do not tighten all the way, turn the small 'ring over. It is recessed slightly for the heads of the bolts on the backside; reversing it may make them tighter. If not, use smaller bolts, such as from a BMX bicycle. If you do not have shorter bolts in yer parts bin [and there's no excuse for this, but it happens] then put a washer under the head of each bolt. Make sure it is about as thick as the chainring you removed or it won't make the bolts tight. Tighten the bolts. NOTE: the wheel may not line up right with the chainring, meaning your chainline may be crooked. The bike will probably be rideable, but will make noises, will not feel as smooth as it should, and this arrangement could cause premature wear and replacement of cog and chainring as well as chain. You may have to put spacers on the wheel, but usually this problem can be solved by moving the chainring to either the outside of inside position on the crank: both will be possible with the other chainring removed.
Take your fixed rear wheel and install it on the bike, tighten the nuts loosely.
Running the chain through and around, figure out how long it may be. Then using the chain tool remove the extra links, and attach the two ends together. NOTE: Be careful not to make the chain too short. Because there are thick and narrow links in a chain, you have to remove a minimum or two, not one, or the chain cannot be rejoined. Make sure if you remove a link [really a pair of links] you will have room to slide the wheel back far enough into the rear dropouts. A wheel riding on the very edge can conceivably damage the frame and is not as secure. If you have too little or too much slack with your gear sizes, you can always use a slightly differnet chainring size; a 39 tooth instead of a 40 or a 41 instead of a 40, etc. Make sure there is a little slack. You can take this up by moving the rear wheel back slightly. Make sure there isn't enough slack for the chain to be loose, however. Move the rear wheel back, then tighten the nuts on the axle. Make sure the wheel is centered and tight. NOTE: Try to use a chain that is as new as possible. An older one will not last as long and my cause wear on the chainring/cog [ANOTHER NOTE: If you don't want to get your fingers dirty fiddling with chainring sizes and pulling links, find a chain length chart. there are lots of more technical fixed gear sites on the 'net which will explain it to you what size chain for what gear. No trial and error! Me, I use plenty of trial and some error. But it works...].
You are ready to ride! You've built a basic fixed gear!
After riding, if you feel comfortable, remove the rear brake. You don't need it, and can control the bike better by pedaling. I have ridden fixed gears brakeless, with only the front brake, and with both brakes. I prefer just a front brake. Removing the rear brake: Pull the brake cable out and the housing. Remove the brake calipers and save them. Turn your attention to the rear brkae lever. You will probably want to keep the brake lever housing and hood to rest oyur hand on, but it is good to remove the lever as without a brake attached it will flap around. Hold back the corner of the rubber brake hood and find the pin on which the lever pivots. Using a tool of the right size [philips screwdriver head, a nail, whatever] push the pin out. It might only come out halfway; pull it out carefully with a pliers. Do not bend it. Save lever and pin in case you need it for some other project.
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Fixed Gear gearing: What to ride
I've ridden everything from a 52x16 to a 40x18. The bigger the front gear the harder to pedal, but the faster you go. Smaller the rear gear, the harder to pedal and brake, but the faster you go. Because you only have one gear on a fixed gear, find a combination that is right for you. People say that a 2:1 ratio is about ideal, meaning if you have a front chainring around 40 teeth [43, 42, and 40 are common sizes] then a rear cog between 16 and 18 teeth is about right. If you have lots of hills where you plan to ride, 16 is probably the smallest you will go for a rear cog. For a first time fixed gear bike, use a front chainring around 40 [42, etc.] until you get the hang of it. You can always upgrade to a slightly bigger front gear [48 tooth, for example]. A 52 tooth front chainring [standard outer ring size on old road bikes, and modern triples] is fine for flatter areas and moderate hills, and will make you ride better on your geared bike, when you get bakc on it, cause of the spin. But it'll be a b*tch bgetting up any real climb. For hilly areas, listen to the 2:1 comments. These people know what they talk about. My 40x18 Panasonic gets up some steep hills. So did my 43x18 Trek. My 52 left me hiking up most of the big ones. NOTE: If you ride in traffic, remember: smaller chainring makes quicker initial acceleration. My Panasonic [40x18] got up to speed very quick, faster than most cars. I topped out quick, too, on flatland and downhill, but it accelerated good and climbed like Spiderman... Now that it's got a 16t rear cog, it's a liitle harder to go, but it's still fast n' fun!
For more on gearing, click HERE!
Pedals:
First timers shouldn't use toe clips and straps. Sheldon Brown's fixed gear site says using platform or plain pedals is for more advanced riders, presumably because your feet could slip off and you control the bike primarily with your feet, after all. However, with all due respect to Mr. Brown [his site got me into fixed gear bikes in the beginning...] I found that it is much more frightening, when first riding fixed, to contend with devices that attach the feet to the pedals, such as toe clips and straps. Also, it is hard to enter them in the first place since the pedals are spinning. Clips by themselves might be find, but straps too would be a hassle. Go slow with nice big platform pedals. If you don't have any that are threaded for yer cranks, take the toe clips/straps off! Trying to get into them with the pedals turning your first time on a fixed gear is frightening and can be dangerous. If you get used to fixed gear riding, and are familiar with clipless pedals [such as Shimano's SPD] use a set of those, they are so much easier, especially in traffic and at lights. But do not use these pedals for the first time on a fixed bike! Make sure you are familiar with clipless pedal entry/exit. Most riders have a foot they prefer to put down first. I am left handed and it is my left foot -- it waries for each rider. Make sure the clipless pedal mechanism on that side is looser, so you don't get stuck in the pedals at a stoplight and tip over. Did that once, it is funny in retrospect but wasn't at the time!
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Fixed Gearing Ideas: Modifications, oddball inventions and gearhead gizmo ideas, both mine and others'.
1: Two-speed fixed gear. I thought of this the other day, tho I'm sure I'm not the first. I've never tried this, but it might bear looking into: put two chainrings on your fixed gear. Use two that are very close in size, like a 40 and a 42, for example. Since even small differences in diameter of the chainring translate into different difficulty in pedaling, it would be possible to use the 40 on hilly areas and the 42 for normal rides. One would just loosen the rear axle, slip the chain onto the other front chainring, and then move the wheel a little further back before tightening it to take up the slack. To get the bike back to it's old gearing reverse the process. A more traditional alternative is to get a "flip-flop" rear wheel, which is a wheel that has both sides of the hub threaded for cogs, and use a slightly different size cog on one side. But this requires removing the rear wheel and flipping it. Takes longer and is a pain in the @ss. Plus, most flip-flop hubs have the other side set for a freewheel rather than a fixed cog, which is not a good idea if you are like me and only run one brake.
2: Two levers into one brake caliper. I've never tried this ad it ain't my idea, they have an article on it at the Fixed Gear Gallery site. Basically its running the cable from the brake lever that would operate the rear brake, to the front, so people who only run one brake can A: either operate it with both hands, or B: operate it with either hand. Sounds cool but I have never had the time to try it.
3: Fixed gear 3-speed? The used to make 3-speed internal gears with fixed cogs, so you'd have a three speed fixie. Some people have actually sold homemade version of this online, never even seen one myself, the originals are antiques and cost way more than I could afford. Sheldon Brown [www.sheldonbrown.com] has a piece about this, and other multi-speed fixie ideas, some probalby workable, some a little odd...
4: Fixed gear left side drive: If you use a smaller [40 or thereabouts] front chainring, you probably have enough clearence to put it on the other side of the bike. I've seen left-hand drive BMX bikes, but the only left-side drive fixed gears I've seen were do-it-yourselfers. If I ever get a second fixed gear rear wheel my next bike might be built left side. I like the idea. The Fixed Gear Gallery has at least two of these. [Check out the Fixed Gallery site, click here]
5: Fixed gear touring? Take a hybrid or touring bike and convert that. The rack mounts and cantilever brakes, combined with the fixed gear, should make a sweet commuter or all-round bike, and the wider tires, stronger frame should hold up fine to the occaisional dirt path/offroad jaunt. By the way, there are people who ride off-road on a regular basis on fixies. There is even link to an offroad fixed gear site at the Fixed Gear Gallery, it's called 63XC.
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Notes on pickin' your conversion bike: How do you know if that old road bike will make a good "fix"? Here's a few thing's I learned over the last few years of building 'em.
FINDING A FRAME:
It helps to find a frame that A: Is lugged steel B: has horizontal dropouts [for wheel adjustment] and that C: is towards the smaller size for your height. [i.e., not as tall!]. This last is because you will be standing on the pedals, moving around on the frame, etc. when climbing hills, etc., and don't wanna bust the family jewels. Also look for a frame that's higher off the ground [bottom brakcet height] but most road bikes have more or less similar BB height so you may only get so much option as far as this goes. Short cranks [170's instead of standard 175's] can help out here. A longer seat and handlebar stem can be used to make up if the frame is a little too short, as second-hand frames only come in so many options. If you can find a frame without many braze-ons, or built in, mounts, do it. It looks cleaner. You can conceivably grind or cut off any obtrusive bits if you're careful not to damage the frame, but I prefer to have the bike have a clean look to start with. Unfortunately, my Panasonic fixie has brake cable mounts, 3 of them, for a cable housing on the top of the toptube. But it was such a sweet bike I converted it anyway. Maybe somedya i'll grind 'em off, but it looks okay now ...and rides great.
CRANKS- Notes on the drivetrain:
Many older road bikes came with 170mm cranks [the length]. Modern road bikes use 175mm which makes a slightly bigger circle. Older cranks on other bikes can even be as short as 165mm. Both 170mm and 165mm's are good for fixed gear bikes because you keep pedaling, even when turning. One danger of a fixed gear is pedal strike, or hitting a pedal on the gorund leaning it no a turn; can cause a crash. Shorter cranks help.
Handlebars:
There are three main bar options for a "fixie". Road or bullhorn or "cowhorn" bars, and a flat bar. Road bars are the traditional, curved drop bars seen on road bikes. These offer good hand positions and several of them. But without the dummy brake hood for the rear brake properly attached, you will have grief holding them whilst climbing. I tried it. Bullhorns, like the bars on a triatholon bike, allow a different hand position, but only one. My black centurion had these back when it ran a 48x18 gear. I prefer road bars with both brake hoods [one dummy, duh!] but did use the cowhorn or bullhorn bars [which i made myself by cutting and flipping a pair of old drop bars] for several years.
A variation on "drop" or road bars is to take a cruiser or roadster bar and invert it. The result will be a bar with a curve, but not as pronounced as road bars, and with a wider span. My Centurion has this in it's current configuration though I used the wheels off it to build my current fixed Panasonic. The Panny has drop road bars, runs 40x18, and is a hillkiller.
Some people also use flat mountainbike bars for around town cruising or offroad. I tried this on my Trek 1000 and it looked real classy, specially with the rear rack i had and blue grips that matched the blue decals on the yellow frame. However, i find climbing is easier with a set of road bars and both brake hoods [1 minus the lever if you only run a front brake, like me]. The next best thing is a cowhorns, which can be made by cutting the ends offa road bars and flipping them. These are great for climps but offer limited positions for long rides, unlike the drop bars.
I prefer drops for longer rides because they allow at least 3 different hand positions: In the drops, on the brake hoods, and on the corners of the flats right before the hoods -- for fast pedaling, climbing, and flat cruising, respectivley, althoughy our preference may vary.
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My first Fixed gear Bike: A short history
Currently I have a fixed gear Panasonic DX-1000 and a Fixed Gear Bianchi. More about my Bianchi Fixed Gear... The Panasonic is described above. The Bianchi was my first "fix". It has a funny history...
Got this thing at a flea market held at the New Vernon firehouse in New Jersey, just outside the great swamp and a few minutes' pedaling from my college town of Madison. It had nasty faded red grip tape on drop bars that were way too narrow for my taste, 27" wheels w/ cool high-flange hubs and those old, flat-lever quick release mechanisms, and a mix of cheap Campagnolo and Japanese Parts. There was no model name on it, and the "BIANCHI" stickers on the downtube and seat tube were faded and partially gone, although the headbadge, a sticker with the Bianchi crest, was [and is, more or less] intact. Despit ethe nice lugs, and relatively light weight, the bike seemed to me to be a boombike, one of those many inexpensive, durable but unimpressive machines imported to the U.S. en mass during the post World War II years and up through the 1970's. It had the Valantino stamped derailier and centerpull brakes, a 52/42 front chainring combo on jap cranks, 5 speed rear wheel with big gears and a steel Campy derailieur, the Valentino. The front derailier may have been Campy also, don't recall. I rode it "as is" to university and to the Coffee Shop in Madison [May the Sweet Dreams Cafe rest in peace].
Then, when an acquaintence of mine turned his mountainbike into a singlespeed with my help following a broken rear derailiuer, I converted it to a singlespeed, shortening the chain, removing the shifters/derailieurs, and running the chain thru one of the smaller rear cogs and the 42 tooth front chainring [i pulled the other chainring]. Due to my limited parts box, my lack of a chain tool to remove links properly, and other limits of the day, I had the rear wheel too far back and used a BMX sidepull brake for the back in order to reach the rear wheel! I rode it like this for almost half a year, and then it hung in the rafters. When I wanted to try out a "fixed", I wired the sprocket of the rear wheel to the big steel spokeguard so it couldn't coast. When my fixed rear wheel came in at the LBS, I thru it on this bike.
I first rode it as a fixed gear with drop bars, then with a homemade "moustahce" bar that was made outa an inverted cruiser bar, at such an angle so it didn't have much of a drop. I was using salvaged grip tape at this point so each side of the handlebar was a different color (!). I eventually went on to use my Centurion for the fixed gear, then my Trek 1000. During the winter, however, I rode in every major show storm -- first on my mountainbike, then my fixed gear. Since the Trek's frame clearance wouldn't permit fitting wider tires, the Bianchi came out of mothballs, equipped with a flat mountainbike bar [shortened a bit at each end] and a road bike sidepull, hooked up to a mountainbike lever. Then I resumed riding the Trek. It was great and has dual h20 braze-ons -- but I didn't like the look of the aluminum, and besides, the old steel bikes were just as light stripped down -- and rode better. After I crahsed the Trek, dislocated my left shoulder, and had the rear wheel rebuilt, I put the Trek on ice for a while and went back to using the Centurion -- this time with inverted cruiser bars [using the drops] rather than it's cow-horns. I rode this brakeless like a retro track bike, then installed brakes, and then built my Panasonic. The Panny is a sweet bike, but I couldn't bear to see the Bianchi go to rust -- it was my FIRST. After perusing the Fixed Gear Gallery, a pic of one of their many flat-barred bikes caught my eye. Sweet ride, I thought. I know flat bars don't make good climbers, but what's wrong with two fixies -- the Panny for longer ides where there be hills, and the Bianchi for 'round town [or the next town?]. So I rebuilt it. Sadly, it has been retired to hang fromt he rafter of my garage, and it's parts are on my Centurion -- except the stem, which was stuck [what a shame!]
Component hilights:
-CRANKS: original 170mm's, Japan VXRoad
-CHAINRING: 39t
-REAR RIM: Mavic open pro w/ fixed hub and 16t cog [18t originally. I'm sharing the rear wheel with my Panasonic so it's now got a 16 too. Rides better than 18t...]
-BAR STEM: SR Royal/ HANDLEBAR: No name mountainbike stem, shortened a bit by trimming at the ends
-GRIPS: Profile design mtb grips
-SEATPOST: unknown microadjust [formerly on Centurion]
-SEAT: Coda
-BRAKE: Shimano Tourney sidepull
-BRAKE LEVER: Shimano mountainbike lever -PEDALS: Shimano SPD. There were a few idosyncracies building this back up, such as the frame is for 27" rims and the wheelset is 700c. This meant I needed a longer reach brake.
Also, the headset was loose, there was plenty of paint chips and rust spots to touch up, and the seatpost binder bolt had to be replaced. Dropouts were dinged up. I dig that cool 170mm crankset with the cutout spider...
...and wouldn't you know it, the 39x18 combo is great for around town cruising! The bike rides sweet.
The really cool thing is, it cost me NOTHING [as in $0] to build. This goes for when I switched the parts to m yCenturion, too... Every part I had was something out of my parts box. Of course, a flat bar bike is less labor/part intensive than a dropbar one, and is also more minimalist; the brake lever just slips on the bar, there's no wrapping grip tape, you don't have to worrk about carefully removing the rear brake lever while saving the lever mount and hood for hand position, etc. Partly, this means a flat bar bike will just plain look simpler, and last longer. They are not great climbers, but the 39x16 gear takes care of that, and I've got the Panny for longer rides anyhow.
A basic, flat-bar fixie can also make a great "utilitatian" bike [see above]. _____________
How did you get into that?
People sometimes ask me how I got into riding a fixed gear. One of my fellow bicycle recyclers [who i got the Panny from, actually] can't understand why I take the gears off a perfectly good road bike. When I tell him the answer is to make a better road bike, he just kinda shakes his head. I can't explain it; you have to truly ride a fixed gear to truly experience the reason why it is so much fun. But i can tell you how I got interested in it...
The story begins in the late 1990's when i am in University. The Madison Cycle shop in Madison, NJ, across the town center from the Coffee Shop I hung out in, was a big seller of schwinns [now they sell msotly Cannondale]. Accordingly, they had a book on the history of Schwinn, and it contained a full-page pic of a chromed Paramount Track bike from like 50 years ago. I was so fascinated by it I tried to built one, but ended up with a singlespeed coaster brake road bike instead -- ii still hadn't wrapped my mind around what a "fixed gear" was.
Well, sometime later I'd rebuilt a bunch of bikes, including converting two road bikes to singlespeeds, one of which ['78 Trek with Campy cranks running 42 front and using the seocnd cog of the rear cassette]I rode offroad on dirt trails as well as the streets of Chatham, Madison, Summit and other local towns.
One day I was looking for info on a vintage something or other when I stumbled across Sheldon Brown's website on old bikes. He had so much on there about "fixed gears", I was interested. I think for me the kicker was to read that this was what people rode "back in the day" as someone who in his first year of college rode 75 miles in one day on a Schwinn Stingray coaster brake bike, my sense of retro-ness was activated. I had to have one of these!
I experimented in vain with various means of seeing if i could test the fixed gear ride on an existing bike, locking up the freewheel. Nothing was practical and cheap, so I resolved to order a fixed gear wheel at the local bike shop. But it would cost over $100. I wante dto be sure I was going to use it before spending that kind of dough. After looking ofr a way to test the fixed "feel", I took my old Bianchi road bike [see above] which had been converted to a singlespeed and straightened out a coat hanger. I used the coat hanger to wire the freewheel to the holes in the big metal spoke guard of the original 10-speed rear wheel. This made it impossible to coast, and I actually rode the bike like this for several days, though no more than 5 miles at a time! After two days I knew I had to get a fixed gear! The wheel came, and I used it, first on my Bianchi, Then my Centurion, and Finally my Trek 1000. When i crashed the Trek [and dislocated my shoulder] the wheel was destroyed, and the lbs rebuilt it using a better rim. [This is the wheel that now graces my Panasonic DX-1000 fixed gear, which so far is my favorite -- but assuredly not my last]
Anyway, that's how my bizarre journey into the world of Fixed Gear bikes began...
Future fixed gear ideas: I'd like to build a fixed gear touring bike [Maybe with left side drive?], so if I can find a 52cm or thereabouts touring, hybrid, or other frame which will take 700c rims and has cantilever brakes and rack mounts, I'm gonna invest in another fixed rear wheel... ___________
DOs and DON'Ts of Fixed Gear RIDING...
A few tips to keep you from bein' road pizza. [NOTE/DISCLAIMER/COVERING MY @SS IN CASE YOU CRASH AND SUE: This is not a comprehensive list! Use your brains and ride smart!]
DO wear a helmet [DUH!]
DO look farther ahead of you than you would on a geared bike, because on a fixed gear bicycle you cannot just slam on your brakes. Learn to time yourself. Soon you will only have to stop for 50% of red lights. If the force is strong with you, you may be able to beat almost all of them, but timing yourself is easier and less risky. It is also a skill you can transfer to a geared bike, or even automobile driving, lessening needless stop and go wastefulness there too.
DON'T spend too much time looking over your shoulder. Most cyclists eventually learn to hear or sense cars coming up behind them. If the force is not strong with you and you have to know what is bearing down on your wimpy butt, get a rearview mirror. Looking behind you will cause you to not see the obstacle in front of you.
DO use lights at night -- red on back and white on the front. Lights can be as inexpensive as ten bucks. Can you imagine your friends saying at your funeral "He rode at night all the time and he's dead because he didn't want to spend ten bucks?" You don't want Ran Over By SUV Due To Penny-pinching on yer tombstone, waste ten bucks on a light and live longer. It's not certain they'll see you, but it is more lively! DON'T ride against traffic! I used to do this when I was a kid. Most of us probably did. An adult riding a bicycle against traffic is stupid. For instance, cars pulling out of the driveway won't see you coming because they will be looking for the flow of traffic! Ride with the flow of traffic, unless you are making a wide turn or something.
DO make sure the chain on your Fixed Gear is in good shape before a ride. Apply chain lube after any rain or other foul weather; but also lube the chain from time to time even if it doesn't rain. On a fixed gear, especially one with only a front brake, the chain is key to going AND stopping safely. You don't want that bugger to break mid-ride! DON'T ride backwards on the street! Okay, you can physically do this on a fixed gear, and it's great for impressing drunk people at college parties, but I wouldn't advise it. DO announce yourself politely when passing another cyclist [especially on a geared bike... he he he!]. Seriously, this isn't rude. NOT anouncing "Excuse me" or "On your left" can be rude -- and dangerous. Another cyclist might not know you are there as you pass. You don't want to get into an accident with a fellow bike rider, do you?
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WARNING! If you ride a fixed gear, there are dangers: if you stop pedaling suddenly, you will crash. I done it. Also, Be careful not to lean into a turn and striek a crank or pedal on the ground. Be wary of clothing or shoe laces, fingers (!) etc. getting caught in the drivetrain -- both when working on the bike, and riding it. The gear will keep turning and you might lose something.
Also, though it can be safe to ride a fixed gear without handbrakes, I'd advise at least a front brake, especially in traffic or hills, just in case. In fact, some areas consider ti illegal to ride without brakes, so be careful if you do! [and don't expect me to pay yer traffic tickets]. Also, a note: if you build one according to my instructions and don't like the results, don't sue me. Please! Enough said about warnings.
....!
[Always under construction]
Go...
Back to the LoNe RiDeRs main page...[or check out other sites below!]
A cool fixed gear bike gallery site!
Sheldon Brown's fixed gear site!
another cool Fixed site!
---inactive link--- Gotta cool bike site? it could be here!
Here's a link to my Olde Fixed Gear Page!