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Ball Python Information

Disclaimer: I am not an expert on reptiles and that includes ball pythons. If you want an expert’s opinion I suggest taking your snake or concerns to a licensed veterinarian.

.General.
The three most commonly known species of python are the reticulated python (Python retulatus), the Burmese python (Python molurus molurus), and the ball python (Python regius). Reticulated pythons are the largest reaching twenty-five feet or larger which is the snake most people think of when they hear the word “python“. The Burmese python is somewhat smaller at twenty plus feet. However, ball pythons grow a mere three to six feet in length unlike its relatives. Ball pythons are more easily tamed and usually very docile.

.Feeding Time.
First of all, have an alternative cage or plastic shoebox where you can take the snake to feed (I call this ‘the feeding box‘). This helps the snake not to relate it’s home with feeding and should reduce nipping/biting. Hatchlings should be fed one ten-day-old pinkie (baby mouse) two weeks after their first shed. A young adult is usually fed one to three small/fuzzy mice per week and adults are fed two to four adult mice or one or two small to medium rats per week. I strongly suggest NOT feeding live because not only does freezing the mouse/mice lessen the chances of the mouse giving the snake a disease, but also a live mouse will do anything to stay alive and if your snake is not hungry the mouse could severely injure the snake!

Ball pythons can be very picky when it comes to their food, so if one happens to adopt/buy a ball python who was raised on live mice/rats/gerbils, and wants to switch to frozen/thawed, then there‘s a bit of work to do. There are several different methods one can use, one of them is: Start out using freshly killed mice (if possible), because a live/freshly killed mouse has a different scent than that of a frozen/thawed mouse, make sure not to just lay the mouse in the feeding box with the snake, instead (using tongs) shake and wiggle the mouse in the feeding box, making it appear to be alive. Once the ball python is eating freshly killed mice/rats, switch to frozen/thawed, when doing this make sure the mouse is warm not just thawed, there are several different methods of doing so: Use a blow dryer, hold it under warm water, or hold it under a heat lamp, any of these will work, but NEVER use a microwave, as it will cook the mouse and will not be suitable food for the snake. Also, be careful about feeding the ball python gerbils because they’re easily addicted to them, and gerbils can be more expensive than anyone would want.

Frozen mice and rats can be bought on-line, from a store, or local breeder. When your snake is ready to eat, get a mouse from the freezer and let it sit for about two hours, then get a pair of tongs and blow dry it/soak it in warm water/hold it under a heating lamp (which not only makes sure it's completely thawed but also warms it up so that it will be more appealing to the snake). When the mouse is thawed and warm hold it in the snake's alternative cage (feeding box) using the tongs and wave it around a bit so it looks as if it's moving.

Pointers:

-Ball pythons, like many snakes, will refuse to eat while shedding and will sometimes refuse to eat for a cause which only they know. A ball python can go on food strike for months at a time, so please do not attempt to “force feed” your snake as it could cause you and the snake harm.

- Keep shedding and feeding records as this will be useful information if the snake ever needs to be put up for adoption or sold.

.Where Your Ball Python Lives.

Have the vivarium and set-up ready before bringing a ball python home! This will help not only you (because you can have all your nit picky things in place and won’t have to rush as soon as you return from the pet shop) but the snake as well (she won’t be sitting in a box for an hour or so while you’re setting up her home). Below is a list of items that should be in a vivarium and why.

-The Vivarium/Tank - The size of the vivarium varies because of the size of the snake. Because a hatchling is much smaller than an adult ball python, a ten to twenty gallon tank is suggested. However, a twenty to forty gallon tank is suggested for a young adult and for adults a fifty-five to one hundred gallon tank is suggested. A reptarium may also be used, which is an open-air enclosure for reptiles. Don’t get one too big and have plenty of heat sources to warm up basking areas at the top/middle of the reptarium (reptariums are actually more suitable for lizards, specifically iguanas, but work just as well and generally look nice in your home). Just a note, a ball python can get larger than six feet long so take that into consideration when picking out a glass tank or reptarium. There are many different

-Floor heater - One third to half of the tank should be heated so he/she can regulate his/her body temperature.

-Substrate - Substrate is important because it covers the bottom of the vivarium allowing space between the ball python and the heat source, and it makes cleaning easier. Newspaper will work just as well as wood chips, outdoor carpet, care fresh, or cloth such as towels and old shirts. Gravel can also be used, however, this creates a health risk because it's possible that a snake can swallow a piece of gravel or rock especially when eating and causing extreme health problems. Using gravels is also a problem when it comes to cleaning. Cleaning gravel is difficult because you can’t tell when there’s a mess in the tank so messes may go unnoticed causing a fungus in the bottom of the tank. It’s much easier to use newspaper, pine shavings, or outdoor carpet; a pet bedding called care fresh can also be used, but if you use something like care fresh, wood chips, gravel, or old cloth like towels or clothes then be prepared to clean up every day. If using outdoor carpet, keep two pieces so they can be rotated when cleaning.

-Hide boxes - Two hide boxes (one on each side of your vivarium) or a big one in the middle is a must. Ball pythons like to hide and hide when they are digesting their food so if there is a hide box only on the cold side then the ball python will probably not want to eat, or worse, eat on that side and end up regurgitating lunch. Hide boxes can be easily home made (using an empty macaroni box, cut a hole on one side so the ball python can enter) or they can be bought at a local pet store.

-Water bowl - This is for both drinking and bathing so the bowl needs to be large enough for the entire snake to fit in. The water bowl should be changed twice a week or when soiled.

-Tight and secure LID - Must have a tight, secure lid with no way to escape! Ball pythons, like many animals, are clever escape artists and will get through anything that's big enough to stick their snout through. In fact, BP hatchlings should be kept in a plastic shoebox (of course make sure you have poked very small holes in it for air) and duct tape the lid on so that there’s no possible escape or custom make a lid for the vivarium.

-"Toys" - By nature, BPs are land animals but putting a branch in there won’t be useless as he or she will feel comfortable with climbing on it from time to time. Real or fake plants can also be added to the vivarium for decoration or for more hiding areas. -Overhead heating - Overhead heating is not necessary but is rather something to make the vivarium more aesthetically pleasing. If using overhead heating make sure that it's NOT pointing toward the cool end of the vivarium (because, obviously there won't be a cool end if you heat both ends), in fact, the heat lamp should be over/pointing toward the basking area.

-Heating Temperatures

  • -During the day keep the vivarium between 80F and 85F.
  • -The basking area should be kept slightly hotter at 90F.

  • -At night keep the tank between 75F and 80F.
  • -For hatchlings the temperature can be kept five degrees hotter than what it usually is and for adults it can be kept five degrees cooler.

  • -ABSOLUTELY NO HOT ROCKS! - They cause severe burns because there's no way to regulate the temperature.

    -Regulate the heat. - Must have thermometer to monitor the temperature in the bottom of the tank (where your snake will be). Place it about 1 1/2 inches from the bottom of the tank. A humidity monitor should also be kept; the normal humidity rate is 60%.

    -Cleaning -Cleaning should take place every time there is a mess in the vivarium and completely disinfected once every week or every two weeks. If using wood chips, gravel, or care fresh (Never use cedar) simply scoop out the mess, which is somewhat more convenient than using newspaper (however, newspaper is, in my opinion, a better substrate because this can in no way ever harm your snake). If using old cloth they will need to be washed and traded in every day and the same goes for reptile/outdoor carpeting.

    .Handling.

    If you are just introducing your new snake to his/her environment, allow the snake to get use to his/her new home for several days before handling. Never handle a ball python while he/she is in a shedding cycle, as he/she may be more defensive/aggressive at this time (because of their cloudy eyes, they cannot see as well) and handling may cause damage to the underlying new layer of skin. Also, you should handle your snake regularly (aside from when he/she is in a shedding cycle and wait two days after feeding to handle) as a hatchling so that he/she isn't scared of you and gets use to being handled.