**These are the things that I have did in all my past cars, to make it run better to get more MPG.
2003 Mazda Protege, 1996 Ford Ranger, 1995 Subaru Impreza 1.8L, 1990 Nissan 240sx, 1986 Nissan 200sx,
1982 Toyota corolla. Even a moped. The things I did that worked & things that did not work, information I found &
tips I was told about, all is put on this page. Keep in mind your car can only do so much.

 Being of sound mind, the choice in the end is up to you to decide what to do. If you don't know what to do about it
always, ask a technician from your car manufacture!
Each car is different, some things that work on one car will not work on others.

 Before you do anything you need to see that the car has the support it needs.
I would start by getting the cars ECU checked for error codes, & find out what is wrong & fix it.
 If the engine not working right it will have a effect on the way the spark plugs & every thing works.
A good start also could be new spark plug wires. If the ones you have are old it will effect the way the
things work. Also a new gas cap could help.
If you have a leaky one some times it can make a error code pop up.
 Also be sure to have the throttle position sensor checked. If your car backfires badly when you turn
off the gas at mid & high rpm, it could be your throttle position sensor or some sensor
or even your muffler, or anything. That is why it is best to find what is wrong before you start fixing.

 If you drive the car, then after things get hot, the car starts to stall & die, then when you let it cool off a bit,
it runs better, it is not vapor lock, it is your fuel pump. This behavior will happen sometimes with fords.

 If your car backfires, you need to fix it. Backfires can give you valve damage, this is why you need to fix it!
Make sure the everything is running like it should,
this is a very important thing to check on older cars, because the chances are good that things are off with the sensors.
This is something that needs to be looked at.

TIMING BELT:**It has been said that you need to change the timing belt on cars at 100,000+ or 60,000+ miles.
But some say otherwise, ( *52,000! )
You may need to stop & think, how your timing belt is doing. You may need to replace some seals etc, in there too,
before you get going.

 It is best to get it all done just to be sure! If that thing slips, or you leak oil out of the seals, your engine goes, & you will
have to get the parts from Japan with some cars, costing you $1000's.

ABOUT OIL:**The main purpose of motor oil is to reduce friction by preventing direct metal to metal contact of parts
that are moving in relation to each other. This is referred as thick film lubrication, even though the oil films are
only 1/50th the thickness of a human hair!

 An important function of motor oil is to act as a coolant by transferring heat generated by combustion into the cooling
system of an engine. The lubricant must maintain it's integrity under high temperatures, or metal to metal contact of
moving parts could create enough heat to weld the high spots together, then tear apart and re-weld.
This process is called scuffing.

 With a Subaru engine oil is vital. The engine is flat in a Subaru & in time it wares the bottom part of the cylinders more
than the top. It has been designed to do less so now but it still does, but not as it could.
 Through experimentation, the engineers at Subaru discovered that a slightly barrel shaped piston produces less friction,
vibration and noise. The engineers then focused on improving the lower part of the piston that makes contact with the
cylinder wall. It was made shorter and thinner to reduce weight.
 But still, all in all you need a good oil. So there your best support in oil would be Synthetic oil or a good mineral oil.

The difference between synthetic and mineral oil? The base stock in mineral oil is distilled from the stew of
diverse molecules found in crude oil. Mineral oil is refined in the same cracking process that produces gasoline
and other refined products.
 Mineral oil base stock consists of medium sized hydrocarbon molecules, that are forced under pressure between
moving metal surfaces to provide a slippery lubrication film preventing metal to metal contact and eliminating friction.
 Mineral type oil tends to adhere well to metals better than most synthetic oils.

 Synthetic oil combine many low weight molecules into higher weight hydrocarbon molecules.
They are formulated with reduction of internal friction in mind and they are synthesized in labs, typically with the
manufacture of ethylene from crude petroleum or natural gas. Synthetics are more slippery than ordinary
regular mineral oils. Synthetics also have none of the wax which mineral oil cannot eliminate.
The pour point of many synthetics is -60.F degrees or lower, while mineral oil only pour until -40.F
At high heat synthetics are have better resistance to thermal breakdown, rather than to
degrade into vapor and sludge.

OIL DRAIN / CHANGE:**The best way I found to do a oil change is to run the car get things warm then
when you drain the oil be careful it is hot & full of nasty's!!  Let the oil drain for about 8 hours or over night,
this will give it time to get all the oil & gunk out.
( Remember your car has no oil in it! Don't even start it in the morning! Leave a note on the dash!)
 If you use the engine flush use it only if it really needs it. My Mazda really needed it, I had to do it 3 times.
It would be safer if you don't use it every oil change, just do it once or twice to clean the engine out, then
call it good from there. Use the flush to brake up the carbon, then let drain over night.
Oil is being made better these days depending what you get. Good oil & time makes for a good flush.

 When you put the new oil in the car you need to put some oil in the new oil filter before you instal it.
Keep adding oil, to get full as possible. Start up the car, let run then turn it off, 5 minutes later check your dipstick.
This will mix everything together & give you a better reading of how much oil is in the car.
You will notice the oil  is very clean & clear on the dipstick.
( If your car is burning oil I would not add any engine flush additive, it might make it worse, just do the over night. )
I would put in some stop smoke, it will help. Be sure to get rid of the oil the right way. Just find a place that will take it.

OIL ADDITIVES:**With Synthetic oils you don't really need an additive.
It might harm your engine in fact. There is a lot of work from people from engineering, chemistry & science
that put that oil together & there are the same for the people who make the additives.

 There is no telling how additives will react with the oil. It could alter the viscosity.
The oil could be fighting with the additive for the same spot to lube the engine. It can do more harm.
 The additives have been tested with all kinds of oils before it made it out to the market. It is just a matter of what the
additive does in there with what oil, good or bad. So you just need to see that you get a good one like I do.
 Call & find out if it Chlorinates in heat or at all.

  An good additive in a good mineral oil works well. I would trust that more than the additive in a synthetic oil.
Mineral oil tends to stick to the metal better, so I can see less of a problem of additive & oil fighting to
lube the same spot.

 Additives can be Chlorinated, or have Teflon or more in it.
I know that in my 1990 Nissan 240sx I had used Dura Lube additive in the engine & when I took it to the shop the
technician noticed the rust inside of the engine. It was that stuff being chlorinated that did the damage.
With heat it turned into a acid.

 I have also used Teflon additives before and I have found clumps in the bottom of my oil drain pan after I
changed my oil when using that stuff. Because teflon does not stick to metal until it things get up to 800 degrees,
it will be floating around like sand paper.
 And may your god help you if you put any Teflon additive in a Subaru transmission. "Teflon sand paper."
After time you will get a bad gear clash in 1st to 2th gear.
 The stuff can grind the copper spacers in there, causing the clash. It will cost you $1700 to fix.
It is not good in a Subaru or any car!

I ran Lucas additive in the synthetic oil of my Subaru then after a time started to make more & more noise like:
tap, tap, tap, that was a bad sign. Valve trains do not like the taps, it's not good to run it that way.
It contains no harmful solvents but there was something bad happening with the oil mix.
I used synthetic oil with it, but there is no telling why it did not work.
It might of worked better with mineral type oil.

 I used it in my Mazda also, but I had no noise. In a way the car just didn't run right to me.
It was the fact that I was using Walmart synthetic oil with it, which brings up the fact of good oil in a car.
 Lucas additive for an auto & manual transmission & differential also works good but you would be better off
with a good synthetic oil. But as a note, it is not recommended to put any additive or full synthetic oil in a in a
Subaru transmission.

 I used Hyperlube additive also with synthetic oil & noticed in time that it turned black fast.
I did not want sludge so I changed the oil with out Hyperlube in it. I am sure it was the fact that the Mazda engine
was not running right. All oil gets black faster in a bad running engine.

 I have also used Marvel Mystery Oil additive in my oil on my 1986 Nissan 200sx, but found it watered down the oil,
the engine sounded funny & ran a bit hot. Thinking about it that stuff was kind of watery, so
I would not put much in your engine. It might be good to put in the oil, but not in 10w 30 oil.
I would use a heavier oil like a 20w 50 oil or a mix for winter like 2 qt's of 20w 50 & 2 qt's of 10w 40.
This would make a 15w 45 ( - ) the additive you put in there oil. I still do not know if it will effect the gaskets
in the engine long term. It is the fact I just do not know. I don't know many people who put it in there engine.

 Also in my 86 Nissan I used Dura Lube additive for my transmission, it did not seem to do anything.
But seeing now what it did to my 1990 Nissan 240sx, I would not use that again.
 In my Mazda I used Lucas Transmission fix additive & another time I used Lubegard M-V additive in my transmission.
The Lucas additive contains no harmful solvents & the Lubegard additive contains absolutely no zinc.
It seems to make the shifting better. It did not feel like it was slipping. I use Lucas Transmission fix additive in my car.
 The Lubegard additive is currently required for many new transmissions in some
Fords, Lincolns, Mazdas, Mercurys and other makes. It also seems like it would flow better in low temperatures.

 Think of good oil as the oil with an additive already in it from the people who made the oil.
The oil today in some cases do not need an additive in it. It already has it in there.
 I would not put any additive in synthetic oil. You would be better off with it in a good mineral oil if you can.

 If you do not want to put in a additive in your synthetic oil what you could do would be to mix the oil
with a higher viscosity of the same brand,
like 2qts of 10w 30 and 2 qt of 10w 40 to take the shock of fast driving
This makes a 10w 35 oil a bit higher than a 30 & not up to a 40 for a bit better MPG.
 This is what I use in my car.

 Out of all the additives I have used for oil I really only trust Lucas or Hyperlube additives, but only in a good mineral oil.
like in a 10w 30 oil. The additives help to coat the metal parts like the mineral oil already does.
 An slick additive in your mineral oil will bring up your MPG. Other than that I do not use additives in my oil.

ENGINE OIL:**What kind of oil should you use Synthetic or mineral?
It can be a tossup. Synthetic oil flows better in really cold temps.
A good mineral oil will stick to the metal better & be slicker depending with oil & additive you put in.
 I would use an oil that will not sludge in that case a good synthetic oil.

Not all Synthetic oil are from the same class.
There are different classes of synthetics class 3 is not a class 5, & class 3 is not pure synthetic.
Some synthetics are not 100%.
 Cheap oil is like no oil in your car. But you get what you put in it.
I would use a good brand it is your car. You want the slickest oil you can get in the car.

 There are some cars that can not use synthetic oil That would be the Mazda Rx cars. Oil is injected into the
engine's combustion chamber for lubrication. Synthetic oil will not burn right, so the unburned oil will slip
out of the exhaust port and end up gumming up the catalysts making a lot of pressure
in the engine only to end up blowing seal in the engine.
 Also my 1990 Nissan 240sx ran a lot better with out synthetic it had more low, mid range
power with the mineral type oil. I am not sure why but it did.

In my Mazda I ran Castrol GTX start up oil, it is a mostly a mineral type oil with some
Synthetic additives they put in it. It does start good, but the engine just kind of feels hot & I noticed my
MPG seems a bit low. In a modified car you need synthetic oil if it can take it or mineral oil with additive.
 I used Royal Purple oil in my Mazda because is said to stick to metal & is synthetic.
The oil stayed clean good & started good also, but at high RPM if felt like it was not doing good.
So I put Castrol Syntec oil back in it. On the highway the car felt like it ran better,
back like I remember it.

*Never mix different brands of oil like Castrol Syntec and Mobil-1 etc.
You will never know what that might do in there. Each oil works in it's own way it is best not to mix them,
it could do a lot of harm.

ROTARY ENGINE OIL:**For a rotary Rx- 7 - 8 engine, I would not put in any additive, not any
Synthetic oil! Rotary engines do burn some oil & also the oil needs to be light, because of the spinning rotary.
It is best to go with the oil the car was deigned to run with 5w 20. Maybe 10w 30 in hot weather.
 Oil is injected into the engine's combustion chamber for lubrication from the cars oil supply, so synthetic oil
or oil with an additive will not burn right, so the unburned oil mix will slip out of the
exhaust port and gum up the catalysts. Then the next thing to happen will be the apex seals to blow.

 You need to reduce friction at all cost in a rotary engine, but it would be best not to use synthetic oil, so
being so light of a oil I would use an additive to lubercate in the gas. An fuel additive also
helps to keep things clean when used in the right amount.
 Also you do not want to use ethanol gas because the oil is injected
into the engine for lubrication & ethanol is a alcohol a degreaser.
Also to the point do not use any additive that has alcohol.

 If you are going to change anything on the car like a intake or muffler you need to get the computer reprogramed.
Other than that, keep the engine about the same. It's all about the oil in the engine & how the engine runs.

OIL FILTERS:**There are many types of oil filters out there, many are made by the same people under different names.
 The oil filers job is to get most of the contaminants out of the oil, like dirt, metal, or anything bad, to keep the oils ability
to lube the engine. The oil filter I use for my Mazda is the PureONE filter. As I seen info about oil filters it points
me to say that these are best you can get by test. I always had good luck with them. I had a few Fram filters pop a leak a few times on me, that was a long time ago.

 In my Mazda the PureONE filter part # is PL14612. But there are some people that used an filter for the
1997 Mazda MX-6 V6 2.5 L engine. This is part # PL14610. It is a bit longer, so it should filter better.
 This is what I use in my car & everything seems to work well. I was worried that it would not do very well with a dry start, with most of the oil in the oil pan, but everything works well with it. This might extend your oil changes a bit because of more filter space to clean the oil.

 You could look for a bigger oil filter that would safely fit on your car, this is something that might take a lot of research,
but it is worth doing. To help just look at the other filters part number that is next door to your filter.
My Mazda stock part # was PL14612 & the mod filter # is PL14610, only 2 off.
 You just need to look at the next part # & see how it looks & get the info on it, to see about the thread size is right.
But be aware it is a risk, you never know what will happen. If you have a warranty still on your car it would be best to
leave it alone, to not void it.

MANUAL TRANSMISSION OIL:**In a Subaru transmission, it is best to not use a Synthetic oil or
Synthetic Blends, or additives due to the Synchronizers in the transmission. The synchronizers
are used to bring the gear you're shift to up to speed so that the gears match up without any grinding.
If the oil is too slick they may not mach up, giving you a clash.

 I have used a full Synthetic oil that cost $8.00 a qt, in my
Subaru only to have to take it out because of a bad gear clash in 1st to 2th & 4th to 5th gears.
It was too slick. So far the best stuff for a touchy Subaru is Exxon Superflow oil 80w 90
due to the copper protection it gives. If the copper spacers in a Subaru gets worn
you will get a off-set transmission, giving you bad clashes in 1st, to 2th gears & 4th to 5th.

 If you need more cushion in the oil just mix 80w 90 with one qt of 85w 140,
in a clean dry container. (*Mix well.) This will give you something like a
81w 100 from 4qts of 80w 90 & 1 qt of 85w 140.

 I used Synthetic oil in my Nissan 240sx with no bad behavior. You will just have to try it.
I would use an synthetic oil if your car can use it.

AUTO TRANSMISSION OIL:**If you use synthetic ATF you might get slippage in a older auto transmission.
I put synthetic in my 1986 Nissan 200sx, only to find that it would slip out of gear on the highway.
 It would be best to go with what is recommended for the car. If it takes Mercon V you could use a
full synthetic depending on the type. I use a synthetic ATF in my Mazda & I do not have any slipping.
 Other than that I would use what is recommended if things do not run right.

You can add additives like Lubegard or Lucas Transmission fix this will help a slipping transmission.
It works good in a 1996 ford ranger 2.3L truck & other cars I am sure.
 There are some places that will flush out the transmission,
this is something that needs to be done to keep everything shifting good.
Sludge can plug up the hydrologic pathways that change the gears making things go slowly & ruff.

REAR DIFFERENTIAL OIL:**Depending on what kind of rear axle you have, it would be best to use a
synthetic oil 75w 90, this will reduce friction & help you get better MPG. If you have a limited slip,
rear axle you should use the type of oil that is recommended for that. Sometimes it is ok to use a synthetic oil,
you will have to call the dealership to find out.
 In my Subaru I could not use synthetic oil in my transmission & the car being full time all wheel drive,
it was best to keep the oil the same. I did not want the back to be more slick than the front.
 I had used synthetic oil in my Nissans & found they do work better, things were smooth running.

 If you have not changed the oil in a while I would drain it for a long time, then spray some
cab spray in there to clean it out, then let it dry.

POWER STEERING FLUID:**If you have not changed your steering fluid in a long time you should.
From the steering rack loosen the center pressure pipe & let drain. Then when you put it back in place, refill
the fluid with Lubegard Power Steering additive or
Lucas Power Steering additive & a synthetic ATF. It will depend on your car on what kind
of oil it uses. It will say on the top of the steering fluid fill cap. I would still use an additive, but fill with the oil they
recommend. With my Subaru & Nissans, the oil helps lube the front drive shaft, that is why I wanted it slick in there,
to help reduce the ware.
 After you refilled start the car & turn the wheel back & forth then fill again, this will get the air out of the system.

COOLING SYSTEM:**If you have not flushed out your cooling system you need to. If things look rusty or gummy
in there you should clean it out. A aluminum engine has a very high corrosion potential.
 You need to give it a good cleaning, a good flush.
I use Red-Line Water additive in my Subaru & in my Mazda. It has corrosion inhibitors &
helps to pull the heat out more. An hotter running engine can give a chance of thermal fatigue of the pistons etc.
The more heat the more octane you need in the gas to keep the pinging away. So with everything it is best to cool
things down. You need something to ease the surface tension. The boiling at the hot spots impede
the heat getting out through to the the antifreeze, for heat transfer. It is a bad thing to get a aluminum engine hot!
 Some of the additives can ware out & could do damage, so this is why
I would not leave the additives in for a long time. It is best to not to anyway.

AIR FLOW METER:**Sometimes your air flow meter can get dirty, with dust & oil residue from oil type filters.
After I cleaned mine out in my past cars I noticed the cars would run a lot better.
It made the reading how much air is getting in there easier. It made for a better running engine.
 The hard part was cleaning it. This is something that you did not want to damage.
Best of the bunch to use now is Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner from CRC additive, for long term use.

INTAKE MANIFOLD:**Honing your intake manifold will help the car to get more MPG & power.
You can get 10 more HP by honing. Helping the car to breath at it's full potential will help you get more MPG,
& more low & mid high range power. The car will feel all around better.
 You will notice a better sound coming out of the car. And if you have a electric supercharger
on the car it will work a lot better. It's all good! You could also paint the out side of the manifold with
ceramic paint, it helps to dissipate heat, cooling the incoming air.
I use the 500 degree clear coat ceramic paint on my car. You want to be sure you don't over paint.

BUTTERFLY VALVE / THROTTLE SENSOR:**You can get some good air flow by making sure the
butterfly valve is clean. Use some carb spray & wipe it totally clean.
 I wiped on some Rain-X for windows on it once this is something. I did this without reading the label.
I did notice a little change. I am not sure what what that stuff would do to the engine so that is why
I did not put it in the intake manifold.
 Always go by the label, & Be of sound mind. I am sure it would do something bad, because that stuff won't
last for ever. I was worried it would come off & be like sand paper.
You could spray on some Sea Foam deepcreep oil or something like it.
Just make sure it can handle the high heat.

 Check your butterfly valve. Take off the air pipe & have some one sit in the car with the gas to the floor while you
look at the valve to see if it is fully open. It is best not to adjust the butterfly valve your self, because it is a
hard thing to get right. When I looked at my Subaru & Mazda everything was where is needed to be.
 If it is off I would take take it to the dealer to have it worked on. This is really tricky stuff here,
once it is messed up it is done for life with a Subaru. You would have to get a new throttle body, to fix it.

 On the other hand my other cars were off & I had adjusted them & things were fine.
 My 1990 Nissan 240sx, & 200sx were off. I had to grind a stop tab on the throttle body to get things right.
 With the 1996 Ford ranger, I had to pull out the gas pedal & hit it with a hammer to bend it so it would
pull more on the cord that pulls the butterfly valve, so it was full open.
 In truth it would be best to take the car in & have a technician adjust it. On some cars it will offset some
settings, making the car run lean. If you do not totally know the car do not do it your self!

 You also need to adjust the throttle position sensor. For this I would take it in to have it done.
This is just one of those many things that are high tech! It needs to be done right.

AIR FILTER / AIR BOX:**In a air filter you need one that filters good or change where the air comes from,
so the air is pulled in from a cleaner place.
 If you find dirt in the clean side of the air box the filter you have on it is not doing a good job.
Dirt is bad, in a aluminum engine!

 With my Subaru it was best to go with the stock air filter! With flat K&N type filters I found dirt in the clean side
of the air box with my subaru. Don't put in a K&N type cone filter kit on a Subaru 1.8L don't do it.
I found it makes the car too lean. The sound is also so loud that at high rpm
the sound waves push the air out from the engine, the engine is pulling in the air at the same time the sound is pushing
it out. It also messes with the air flow meter.
 The sound is cool with the cone filter, but it is killing your engine!
That's why they do not have one for the car. You don't need the grim reaper belching out of the Subaru intake.
The Fram AirHog filter looks like the best thing for a Subaru it is thicker. There are also other filters like
AMSOIL filters & other like filters. Just look to see if it is filtering.

With my Nissan 240sx, a K&N cone filter kit, worked good. The sound was not that bad in the car & there was no
dirt in the air pipe. But in my Nissan 200sx I used a flat K&N type & I had found dirt in there.
So I went with a stock filter & opened the inlet to get more air in there, that worked fine!

 I found dirt in the intake of my Mazda Protege with the flat K&N type befor I took off the air boot with my other mods.
I went with a regular Purolator type filter, because I made the car into a ram air type, I had to change the air filter more
often & i kept an eye on the filters to see how it was doing. Now I use the K&N type but with the air boot removed
So the air is being pulled from a cleaner place, to make use of my new mods.

 You can get more power with different types of stock air filters than some other ones. It's all the in the design,
there are some filters that flow good. You do want to see that the car can get all the air it can get.
If you see over glue around the edge of the filter part don't get it, keep looking.
 In my Subaru I used a stock Subaru filter part # 16456AA020 or Nissan filter part # 16546-0Z000 or
Purolator type part # A24278.
 Basically the Subaru filter that fits must be: Length: 281mm, Width: 168mm, Height: 33.5mm to fit the air box.
The Subaru air filter is the same as the Nissans.
 Keep in mind more air = more fuel used, as stock.

 With the heat under the hood of the car, you could paint the out side of the air box with ceramic paint
to help cool the incoming air, by keeping the heat out. I use the flat black coat ceramic paint on it.
Just to keep things looking good. I used 2 cans.
 You could also get some Thermo-shield wrap & use it on the air pipe & air box to keep the heat out.
This is what i did with my car with my ram air intake & it seems to do good.

VORTEX GENERATOR:**A vortex generator does work with some cars but not as you think in some cases.
For mileage it can work, it depends on what your cars ECU will do.
 In some cases it will block the intake a bit & give the car less air so the car sees there is a lot
of gas that did not get burned to it will turn down the fuel to keep from being too rich.
This will give you MPG but is also bad in a way. If you get the car too lean the engine will get hotter.
Heat is really bad for an engine it can give you piston & more fatigue.

 The spinning air can get through the throttle body & intake manifold better.
This  will help in getting the air into the engine & will give you the driving faster with less on the throttle effect.
 The electricsupercharger I had on my Subaru was a good vortex generator it worked & I noticed it worked.
While on the other hand the other vortex generators did not work with the car.
So it is best to say some vortex generators work & some do not. It is up to your car & how you have it set up.

 In my small Subaru engine, it seemed to work. I squeezed my tornadoair vortex generator I had from my
old Nissan 240SX in my Subaru & found it made a lot of power low to mid, but the top end was
about the same. The top end was the same with or without the vortex generator.
 So that told me that it had to do with the Subaru's intake manifold & engine. The air coming in at the
intake manifold at high RPM peaked & the way the car breaths put a limit on the vortex generator behavior
 The bore is bigger than the stroke & the Subaru engine is only a 1.8L, so the car breaths in short fast strokes.
This gave it a limit on the vortex generator at high RPM. The low & mid range of the car was massive,
but top end was the same as it was with or with out it in the intake.

 I put in a tornadoair vortex generator in my Mazda & found it works the best with more air & more spark.
So I put in a K&N replacement type filter. With E3 spark plugs & took off the air boot, to keep the air a bit cleaner
then it would be getting air from the outside of the car with rain dirt etc. I have noticed more MPG.
 I am not sure how much I buy little gas as possible have not filled up my gas tank all the way for months now.
Only get what I need.

 The best test to see if a vortex works the way you want it too is to take the vortex out of the car
& go 5000 rpm or so driving down hill, & then do not give the car any gas & let it coast in gear
down the hill. My Subaru RPM's slowly went down, if at all with that. Then i put in the vortex and
went to 5000 rpm & cut the gas again. The Subaru RPM's went down quicker, that tells you it is not working.
 The Subaru engine can not pull in the air fast to make
it work, it is too much of a blockage. The engine can not get the air, so it can run to hot
& over time it can harm your engine. This test is the best way to see if it will work in your car.
A lot of the Vortex makers have a 30 day free trial, if it will not work then send it back.

 All vortex generators are not alike, you want one that looks like it will flow air the best. It also depends on the car
I used the tornadofuelsaver vortex in my Nissan 240sx I noticed it worked a small bit in the but the top end
did not do anything. It seemed flat. That was with a stock setup. It was blocking the air a little.

 The best place to put the vortex generator would be in front of the throttle body, the closest to the combustion
chamber as possible. But some times you just have to put it where you can.
 Be aware that it could slip down in the air pipe, or could slip sideways blocking the air
flow, in which the cylinder pulling in the air will get the air by sucking in a gasket, and if you place it to close to the
PCV valve it might block the PCV valve, which it would get air by sucking in a gasket some where in the engine,
which also will be bad, so this is why you need to run the vortex generator for a
time then take out the air pipe & look at it. If it looks stable leave it there.

SPARK PLUGS:**I have tried many kind of spark plugs in my Mazda & other cars
& even my lawn mower. The best I found for the lawn mower is the E3 type spark plugs.
You also need to have it indexed if you can. They work better than non resistor spark plugs.
 As for cars you can use non resistors but if you get a ping at high rpm's that can damage your engine
With my Subaru I had a good push at 3000 to 6000 Rpm with  NGK V-power type spark plugs.
But the non resistor ones seemed to push harder, making more power, till the engine died, from pinging.
If you get non resistor spark plugs you need to find out if they are making the engine ping. it is worth finding out

 It is always good to take out your spark plugs to read how they are doing.

 You also need to get the right heat range, to hot a plug will make the engine ping.
 If your car is not acting right with the spark plugs you have in it,  you need to go with the
plugs that were designed for the car. The car was designed for that kind of spark plug for a reason.
 In the same hand they were intended to work best in the car to get the most power with out pinging,
& to have a long life.

 Be sure to index your spark plugs if you can so the open gap is facing the toward the intake valve, not the exhaust,
for better combustion, this works best on a Subaru flat engine. It is hard to index plugs if you can't get it
right on facing the intake valve , get it close as you can, but just make sure it's not facing toward the
exhaust side. Try putting each plug in each cylinder if you get a match leave it in for now &
then move on to the next plug. Mix & mach the best you can. If you have a few plugs that are way
off the mark, get some more plugs & try them.
 If you use iridium or small wire types & you get a ping with the indexed spark plug you may want to
index the plugs facing the exhaust side. The small electrodes could be too hot & being open to
the intake valve it could giving you some pre ignition.

 In my lawn mower I use a E3 type spark plug, indexed, it now takes less than one tank of gas to do the
front & back, before it took a tank each.

 You need to think of the flow of electricity like water piping. The smaller the water spicket
the less that will come out. But comes out with force to a point.
 Fine wire electrodes tend to quench less. But it all the power is not getting out.
 That is why a power line is not a small wire.
I noticed in some cars like the Ford Ranger & my Mazda protege, it will make the car ping or act funny,
with a fine wire electrode. The small electrode was hot enough to set off the fuel causing a ping.
When I changed plugs I noticed no pinging. It might of been fixed by indexing the plugs so the
fine wire electrode would not be open to the intake valve.  never thought about it at the time.

 A spark will travel on the edge of the electrode. So the smaller it is, the less is needed to spark.
Less voltage is needed to make a spark with the wire electrodes so the spark voltage will be small also.
 If you have a big electrode the power kind of spreads out to a point, also there will be more volume
with more power getting out. When you look at both type of plugs when in my Mazda you notice
the car just did not run kind of right, the car had a ping & the power was down in it with the wire plugs.

 Spark plug resistance is also a factor. You need to check the resistance of the spark plugs.
It should be around 6 Ohms or less. Some are just too high.

 At the time on my Subaru, I used Denso. It made good top end power , but it felt the same as the
V-power plugs in the Subaru engine. Denso Iridium type plugs, cost around $12.99, & the V-power plugs
are at $1.93 a plug. The Iridium will last longer, but it does not have the mid range power like the V-power plugs
or even the non resistors, new but in fact you might be killing your engine with the non resistors.

 More spark in a spark plug could be bad. More access with the spark could burn your piston & valves.
This is something you need to look at with some plugs. Pull out the spark plugs & look at them from time to time.
 Make sure it looks good. I would also look through the spark plug hole with a bright light
to see how the piston is looking. If things look bad as in black with carbon more than it should
or looking burnt then go back to a spark plug that was made for the car.

~NGK V-power plugs  At the time they were the best for my Subaru & they are original equipment for the
Subaru. I used  Denso Iridium type plugs & it seemed to make good top end power , but it felt the same as the
V-power plugs in the Subaru engine.

 In the Mazda Protege car manual it says to use BKR5E-11 or BKR6E-11 plugs.
With NGK's plugs the bigger the number the colder the plug it is. On the NGK's plugs website it says the
part number is ZFR6F-11 for the V-power plugs.

 My Mazda had the PO300 code pop up only at long high speeds. I thought it was a bad EGR valve,
then thought it was from a too hot spark plug. So I pulled out the BKR5E-11 plugs I had in there & put in
BKR6E plugs. I didn't find the plugs with the "-11" at the end. But I found out the "-11" is the set gap of the plug.
 I found some BKR6E plugs & set the gap my self & I found the car ran better for a time.
But the light came back it turned out to be the main bearing was bad in it. That is what gave me the code.
So I ended up with a new engine. Lucky I had a warranty.

 Mazda calls for the laser platinum PZFR6F-11 as original equipment in the DX.
But for me I did not want the fine wire electrodes, so I used the V-Power plugs.
The 6 in the numbers are still there in all the V-Power plugs for the DX model
While in other models ES, LX. use the V-Power BKR5E-11 plugs. They are original equipment.
The only 2003 Proteges to use the cold plugs are the DX model & the MazdaSpeed model.
 I used the ZFR6F-11 plugs they are longer than BKR6E-11 plugs, so the spark is more where the
air, fuel is with the same heat range. The ZFR6F-11 plugs being longer I would peek in the spark plug
hole to look at the piston to see if it looks burnt or not.

 NGK V-power plugs are kind of regular plugs they need to be changes at 30,000 miles,
but they seem to work the best. Out of all the plugs I tested they win in my mazda.
 You can mod the NGK V-power plugs. All you have to do is file back the ground until it is 50% of the ground.
This will bring down the life span of the plug to about 15000 miles, but power & MPG will go up.

 I have not seen how the car works with non resistors yet.
But the way it is with plugs I don't want to it's the wrong type of car to mess with the plugs a lot.

~E3 Spark plugs  These plugs seemed to be good. But in my Mazda they worked not so good at the time.
I thought I had the wrong heat range in the car, but it was a bad engine.
 I looked at the plugs & found the ground on it was melting. It was getting too hot in there from a engine not
running right & the high speed highway driving I did.
 It might of been because the spark plug wires too. I changed the spark plug wires,
& put the plugs back in & all seemed to run better. But when I went back & forth to the NGK's & E3's the
NGK's run better. The E3's take away from the power band in the car.
 It is missing the top end push it has with NGK's. The engine just does not feel right.

 But the spark plugs are not bad. When I added the vortex generator with a K&N filter & took off the air boot
off my Mazda this changed the car in more MPG, more power.
 I would say that the spark plugs work the best with more air getting in with a vortex generator the more spark
makes things work better that way.

 Like all spark plug makers they worked on the plugs in laboratory experiments but focused on maximizing
the peak pressure created by there designs. The more Indicated Mean Effective Pressure you get the
better the combustion is. This means a there is a better burn, better use of what you got.
But not always, in real life things change a bit. The plugs might be too close to the piston for the spark to
do any good. It could be anything in there.

 If the E3's look like there melting this is not good. What is it doing to the valves & piston?!
If you use the plugs keep an eye on them. I would run the car for a week then take out the plugs
& look to see if things are melting. Make sure your car is running right before you put in the plugs!
 These are one of the best spark plugs for more MPG & HP. I use these plugs!

~Bosch Platinum +2 & +4  spark plugs are not so good in my Subaru. When I used them it felt strangely
like it was quenching the fire out too much, but the plugs are surface gap plugs so quenching is not really a issue.
 My Subaru just did not like them. With the +4 plugs the car ran like a laser at idle, but when I went past 5000
Rpm the power dropped off. Then I went to the +2 plugs, but it felt the same but a bit better.
 My Mazda has the same high rpm power drop with the +2 plugs, but I noticed after I changed my
spark plug wires to the NGK type wires & I finally put the +2 plugs back in the car I noticed they ran a lot better.
This might of been why it did not work on the Subaru.

 On my Subaru I looked closely at the plugs +4, +2 on my & found little spark marks going
down the terminal toward the inside part of the spark plug. This tells me the plugs were having a internal flash over.
This was happening with the both plugs. Strange!
 After I seen the flash over marks I put in some V-power plugs & noticed everything was better
with no marks on the terminal & on my Mazda the power is better all around with a good high rpm gain
with out the Bosch plugs. But when I got better spark plug wires the +2 plugs really started to come alive!

 It is the fact of the plug being a surface gap plug, with a small electrode. The voltage coming out of it is small
because of the size of the electrode. And when you add high compression in high RPM's that could be a bad thing.
It makes the spark's job hard to do with bad wires.
 All in all I really would not use the Bosch because of the small tip.

~Denso Iridium plugs  spark plugs felt good in my Subaru they have a U-groove ground electrode & a
small Iridium tip that stays clean longer, but has less voltage getting out.
 To me it is too small for my car! It is also the fact of the price. You are paying a lot for something that feels
the same as a $1.59 V-Power plug. In a Subaru, the iridium will last longer.
The only thing that will go first might be the ground.
 I don't really trust them for my mazda, the heat range are all the same for the cars, even the MazdaSpeed.
The heat range is like the V-Power plugs, the bigger the number the colder the plug.
They also do not have a listing for a DX model. I am sure the MazdaSpeed would run a colder plug than the others.

~Splitfire plugs  I had used these plugs in my Toyota corolla & Nissan 240sx & did not feel much power for some
reason they were not made of the the best conducting material! V-Power were at about 3 to 6 Ohms or less on the meter,
while Splitfire plugs was about 12 to 14!
I did not like that! I felt like that took away from the spark of the car! They look like they would work
but they end up not working for my car.

~Other Plugs There are other plugs like Champion, ACDelco plugs,  & others are good for regular cars, but
I would not put them in a foreign car. Life is short get the best out of a car!

 **Capacitor ignition  It's the capacitors stored spark being discharged at once that helps.
DirectHits ignition did work for a time in my Subaru. It gave the car a lot of low & mid range power.
 After a time I noticed a ping in the car with them in there. I went up to 89-93 octane & the ping went
away for a while. I found out it could of been that there is more volume with them in there,
they extend the size of the spark plugs so they hold more heat & make the spark plugs job of
dissipating the heat hard to do for the small engine.
 So the plugs run hotter to the point it causes a ping in the engine when the temp is hot.
 A colder plug might of helped & also it could of been just a cracked plug from the heat,
it is unknown was making the ping. I would do what I could, to fix the plugs pinging. So if you did all you
could do & the engine still pings take them out!
 It's not DirectHits ignition that are bad it's the way the Subaru 1.8L engine is, the bore is bigger than the stroke,
so there is more heat up there for the spark plugs to get out. It might be fixed with a colder plug.
 I would use them! I wish they were around when I had my Nissan 240sx!
I wanted them in my Mazda but it is not made to take them.
 With my Mazda what I found for it is Nology's HotWires ignition. But for me I just don't want them in there.
Because I like my setup in my Mazda. To put them in my car I would have to move the things around to re-wire
everything to get the wires on the car.
If you do not know what to do? The best thing to do is search, ask & learn!

EXHAUST PERFORMANCE:**Putting a performance kind of muffler on a any car does help the engine
to be efficient. It also lets the heat out of the engine & it makes power. Just know the law in your state.
 Also putting on some header wrap on the exhaust manifolds, will cut down on the temperature under the hood making
things run better. Be sure to paint it with 1500 degree ceramic paint, to help keep things cool & water tight.
 Just make sure not to wrap it too much the heat needs to be able to get out.

 With some cars a straight through muffler or a loud one, can mess with the car. Like putting the
K&N cone filter on the intake of a Subaru 1.8L. The mid range drops off, & power all around drops.
The sound can mess with the exhaust flow & O2 sensor on a Subaru & many cars,
giving the car a hard time reading things making the car drive bad.

 What I found that work with my old Subaru is no muffler at all, it's a straight through resonator,
with a 2.95 inch tip.
 It flowed with out much noise coming out, but when I put it on my Mazda it made it louder, so I went to
have a resonated tip put on the resonator to quiet it down only to have the tip & a lot of the resonator
come off, so I had them just put on a pipe with a resonated tip on it no muffler or anything, this ended up
making the car sound quiet. I later found a DTM tip, this made the car sound good.

 Some mufflers / Resonators can ring like a bell. It's the exhaust pulse taping inside
of the muffler making it loud, each car is different.
 Don't get a loud muffler just to be cool. It always makes me think of the dukes of hazards. A 1.8L
Subaru has a nasty sound coming out of the exhaust, with some mufflers & kind of a cow mooing honda sound
with some others. Go for the intake noise, than exhaust noise. Like a jet intake, like the MadMax car in the
movie when you could hear the air going in hissing.
You deserve better! The exhaust messes with the sound of the engine. *Note the intake noise of a Rx-7 or 8
sounds like a dying goose at idle.

 With the Subaru resonator / muffler you will notice the low end starting at 1500 - 3000 rpm, mid range feels better
at 3000 - 4500 rpm. Then from 4500 to 6000 rpm the power peaks. If you have a www.electricsupercharger.com
it peaks at 4500 rpm to 6000 rpm. Hitting it at anything under 4500 rpm is a waste, unless you need a quick push to
get moving fast.

 Getting some headers for your car is also a good thing to do to the car. You will get a lot of low & mid power.
Helping the car to breathe easier is better.

 The first thing I worked on was a small Honda moped I put holes in the muffler, more holes only to find the
best way for power was to take the headers off & have the exhaust come right out of the engine.
It was loud! Sounded like a race bike. It sounded like it could rev to 11,000 rpm's!
 My friend heard me at night when he was outside & I went over a hill wide open 7 miles away.
It was loud for a 50 cc engine. Do not do it to your car hearing loss will happen!
 My cousin started up a V8 in a garage with no headers to get some carbon off the valves & for fun.
Bad loud! ouch!

FUEL / FUEL INJECTION / ADDITIVES:**Ethanol in fuel is a bad thing.
While diesel contains about 140,000 British thermal units (Btu) per gallon, and gasoline about 115,000 Btu, denatured
ethanol contains about 84,000 Btu per gallon; these numbers translate into low fuel mileage.
 You can not mix two stroke oil with ethanol containing gas & want it to stay long. Ethanol will break down the oil.
It also has a higher volatility, & in hot weather it would likely increase smog.
 Old cars, rotary engines, two stroke engines, motorcycles, outboards and aircraft may even be damaged by E10.
All around I would use the lowest amount in the fuel. It will kill many old cars.
 Ethanol has to mixed separately with the gas, because if the maker of the gas you use mixed the ethanol with the gas
& sent it down the line, it would rust the pipes. So when gas is made they leave out ethanol till the end.
 Rusting pipes says a lot about what it can do to your car!

 Both higher production costs and surging demand explain why the price of pure ethanol has increased
The production costs are lower in Brazil because the industry there is using sugarcane, not corn, as a fuel input.
Ethanol from sugar has about eight times the energy content of ethanol from corn, but unfortunately, the
U.S. is one of the most costly sources of sugar in the world. So unless global warming grants us the
heat and humidity of Brazil, that country's experience has no bearing on what we might expect
from the ethanol sector here at home. You will spend more on the fuel & get less mpg with it.

 You will spend more money filling up the gas. I have!
I filled up my Mazda with Ethanol E10 & found my mpg went down to 21.4 mpg, from 24.8 mpg from my
45 mile drive to work at the time. I needed the gas to last me the week like it did before I was short on money
at the time. After I burned off the gas I put the regular gas back in my car & my mpg was back to 24+.
 After that I went to the E10 gas again & my mpg was 21+ again. I know how it effects my car so
I get the gas with the least of it. I have also noticed there are some rust spots on my spark plugs.
Going by that I use a additive to lubricate in my gas now, the best I can.

 Other than Ethanol there is Bio-butanol is has about 110,000 BTUs so the mpg is about that of gasoline.
It is less corrosive and will not separate in with water in the tank.The emissions that is with the Bio-butanol fuel
 is the same that the plants take back in. The emissions do not get worse with the fuel.
 You can also make it from algae from the sea. Which might be good because of global warming, a warm ocean
makes a lot of algae. If we use the algae for fuel, we would be taking away the some of the algae. Might help a bit?
 
 Bio-butanol is the better choice of fuel's! Sea algae can yield 30% more stock of butanol than corn does
at the same amount. Anyway you see it there are options for fuel than oil based / Ethanol types!

 If more people use hydrogen cars this would make more water exiting out of the tail pipe, making things more
humid, making more mold & everything bad that comes with high humidity. There is faults in hydrogen, & other
things out there for the use of fuel. Really all you can do is pick the best way of doing it.

 To make sure the car is getting all the gas it needs to fuel the fire with the more power, you need to
clean out the injection system. If you have over 100,000 miles on the car you need injector cleaning!
It would be best to take the car in the dealer for this. Make sure they:
(A) Test the Fuel pump's pressure & volume.
(B) Test the pressure regulator for operation & leakage.
(C) Flush the fuel rail & upper fuel injector screens.
(D) Clean the fuel injectors them self's.
(E) De-carbon the engine, valves, pistons etc.
(F) Clean the throttle plate.
(G) put in a new fuel filter
(H) lastly Re-learn the car's computer.

 If the injectors are bad you can send them out to have them cleaned & tested. This saves money from getting
all new injectors. It is a good ideal to get a new O2 sensor & a new fuel filter to get things flowing
& reading well again. A clogged filter may test on on pressure,
but it may restrict the volume of gas under load. You can kill the engine fast with it running too lean,
things get hot & some engines being mostly aluminum!

 As for my Subaru, it is touchy about gas. If you modified your car, you need better gas.
I noticed I get more MPG, better Hp, with good gas. I ran cheep gas in my car, then one day I filled up with
Shell type gas, & as I was driving down the road the gas hit & my car took off with better power.
It could be the water in the cheep gas. Bad gas can also clog up your fuel filter along with having water in it.
 Even in my Mazda the car would misfire when I had put cheep gas in it, only to have it run better when
I put in better gas.

Chevron, Phillips66, & others are good gas. It is up to you to find something that works.
You just need to try them & see what feels better with your car. I would look for the fuel with the lowest amount
of ethanol. Like the fact of some of the additives for gas can burn dirty making your engine dirty.
 Good gas it like a good additive.

 If you plan to let your car sit for a long time fill the gas to the top with some kind of additive.
If you leave it at 1/2 a tank you will get water in your tank. It will condense like a cold can of pop in the hot sun.
From time to time I use something to get the water out of the gas. in the winter time I use Iso Heet additive
it is cheep & works good. Ethanol in fuel is an alcohol & it can end up pulling water in to your gas tank if you
let your car sit around a lot. This fact also applies to your gas can for the lawn mower.

 Fuel additives are good to have but do not over do it with additives. To much will get things dirty not clean.
Some additives did not work good in my Subaru, because the car is touchy about what it burns, as motioned above.
There is also the fact that some additives can burn dirty. So it would be best to go with the amount they say to use
in the fuel. I have noticed with the lawnmower when I put too much of Lucas fuel additive or Marvel Mystery Oil additive
in with the can of gas I noticed more smoke coming out of the mower than was with out anything in the gas can.
 Marvel Mystery Oil additive does have sulfur in the mix. Too much sulfur is bad for things in the fuel line.
There is that label on the bottle that says "Notice for Diesel Fuel Users: This diesel fuel additive does not
comply with federal ultra low sulfur content requirements for use in model 2007 and newer diesel motor vehicles."
 This also might be why I get the rotten eggs smell from my car sometimes of I use too much in the fuel.

 For your car you need a additive that lubricates, to support the engine & fuel pump, at high speeds &
Horse Power. Because of the fact of my Subaru engine's Bore is bigger than the Stroke,
so piston speed is higher, and because the engine is aluminum & the engine is flat with a
small amount of ware on the bottom part of the cylinder, you do need something in the gas to
lubricate, this will help in making things slicker & run better in all kind of engines not just a Subaru.
 It is a fact you need a good additive that will burn clean. Why lube, clean & get dirty at the same time?

 In my Subaru I had used Lucas fuel additive. It lubricated, but did not seem to do much for it.
There was no gain in power or better running & over time the car started to feel sluggish.
 Partly it was too much additive that I used getting things dirty.
So on my next gas up I put in some STP additive & the power went up. It cleaned up the other additives mess.
 I used STP additive in my Mazda & found out it seemed to make my car exhaust smell like rotten eggs also.

 Out of the many additives I used in my gas. The ones that worked the best in all my cars is Marvel Mystery Oil additive,
Lucas fuel additive, Chevron fuel additives, Red-Line Fuel additive.
 I have used Red-Line Fuel additive but found when I drove the car.
It did not have any feeling of running better like Chevron fuel additives did. I am sure Red-Line Fuel additive
was cleaning but I just could not tell by how the car ran. Chevron fuel additive has something that is ash less & that
has a fully organic composition. This is very good. They said this on there website.

 For a RX-7 -8 I would have to say I would use an additive that can lubricate. Just do not use too much additive.
This is something that can lubricate is what you need for that kind of engine.

You shouldn't mix additives, if you put in Marvel Mystery Oil additive don't pun in anything else. Oil & solvents
don't mix together. If you had used Red-Line, STP or anything, use the Marvel additive after your 2th gas up.
Red-Line Fuel additive, turns the Marvel additive rancid in the fuel!
 I have also mixed Lucas fuel additive & Marvel Mystery Oil additive together, this was bad!
The mix had some reaction it just did not look like something I would of put in my gas.

 There is the ideal out there to use Acetone in your fuel 1.oz, 2.oz to 3 oz per 10 gal of fuel.
The bad thing is that Acetone will emulsify or suspend water in diesel or gasoline, unless the amount of water is
equal to or greater than the amount of acetone, in which case, the water & acetone solution will
fall out of solution with the fuel and drop to the bottom of the fuel tank. That is why you need to get good gas when you
use acetone. To start I would use something to take care of the water in the tank before you add the acetone.
  Acetone also has a bad effect on some plastics. There are people that have car parts soaking in it for years
with no damage. Acetone is sometimes stored in plastic containers with no damage done to them by the acetone.
The fuel lines are made out of, N-buna, which can stand up to 200+ kinds of solvents.
 Acetone is also used to clean hair of oil & residue. So the use of it is a tossup.
I won't use it because of my Mazda having a plastic sock filter on the fuel pump.
The fuel pump having some plastic on it. The the fact of the fuel injectors also having plastic in it.
 It is the worry of the possible cost of repair, even if it is not a true fear I have.
It would be best to think about it before you use it.
 I would not use acetone, or ethanol fuel in any kind of rotary engines!

ENGINE DECARBON:**Depending how bad your car is, you might want to have it get the carbon out.
If you do not like doing this, or you do not know the engine, take the car in to have it done.
Look a place that uses the BG 44K cleaner. & have them clean everything out.
 If you do it your self the wrong way it could do a lot of engine damage.
Do not do this to a rotary engine, it will blow up!!!

 The safest way to clean everything out if you have a rotary engine is to use
Chevron fuel additives or Red-Line Fuel additive for a long time use the amount said to use but do it longer.

  The better way, would be to take out your spark plugs & put in a couple of table spoons of
Marvel Mystery Oil additive in there & let the car sit for about 48 hours. This will take care of everything.
Note there will be a lot of smoke for a while after you start it up.
I would do both things, with a piston engine not a rotary engine. You DO NOT want to put any kind of additive
right in a rotary engine. This is the best way to clean things out. Time works the best!

 The other way to clean your engine is to with the engine cool, take off the air pipe & open the butterfly valve
then spray some throttle body spray down the throttle body.
Use something that is made for this, do not just use cab spray! Sea Foam deepcreep oil or Marvel additive
put in a spray bottle works the best.
 Start the car wide open, until the car kind of starts then turn everything off & let it set for 5 minutes, then do it again.
This cleans but it is not the best way to do it I have found.

After all that will help to replace your O2 sensors if they are old!
& also you might want to change your gas cap, just to make sure it has a good seal.
If you are not sure of what you are doing take the car in to be cleaned, do not do it your self.

CRANKSHAFT:**Because the Subaru crankshaft is smaller and lighter with the engine being flat & balanced
it does not need much of a counterbalancer & with the car being only a 1.8L you can see how light the crankshaft is
from there. This could be a concern with getting more power out of a older car.
 It is best to aim for more MPG than HP, in older cars.
You never know what the shape of the crankshaft & parts are in.

 My Mazda had to have a new engine put in it, because the baring on the crankshaft was bad.
The piston was hitting the top of the cylinder That was why the engine light was on when it showed the engine code PO300.
 Now that I have a new engine in there all is ok now, no engine codes yet.

 Also a warning of a bad crankshaft would be if your engine took 4qts of oil for an oil change then went up to 4.5 qts.
This is what my Subaru did. Something is wrong when that happens.
 It takes more oil to fill up the gaps in the moving parts. Listen to your engine!

TIRES:**Because a tire with bad traction can be dangerous & also be bad on MPG.
It would be best to do the penny test to see if you need tires. All the tires I had when the tread was bad
 I was always having to fix a flat more then I would with a tire with good tread.
A good speed rating is also good. A high speed rating gives you a firmer tire wall.
This is good in fast corners & makes things feel better.

 You can also see about getting bigger tires on your car. If your car has 15 inch tires & it does,
55 MPH at 2500 RPM's. Then you change your tires to 16 + inch size the bigger tire will turn slower.
So now your car & 55 MPH does 2333 + - RPM's at 55 MPH. Less RPM's gives you more MPG.

 It would be also better to have the tires filled with nitrogen this will keep the tire pressure from
going low as fast. A good tire pressure will help your MPG. Nitrogen will not explode it is not that kind of gas.

 My cousin once filled up his tires with helium once to get more MPG. This realy sounded like a good plan.
But it's the fact that helium has small particles that will in time find there way out. This is hard on soft rubber,
could blow your tire on the road badly! And the fact it did not work that well with the risk,
it was soon out of the tires.

MAINTENANCE INTERVAL:**Oil changes with filter should be done every 3000 miles, depending on the oil.
If you are on the highway a lot, or use synthetic oil it could be longer to 5000 miles. It would be best to go to
3000 miles then when you change the oil, change it cold & let the oil drain threw a strainer.
 Then just look at what is in there, if there are lots of black lumps you should change at 3000 miles & use
synthetic oil if you find metal in there, if you do not already because finding metal in there is bad.
If you do not find metal then just go by the sludge. If you have a lot of sludge try getting a better oil, it is worth it.

 At every 30,000 you need to do a lot of things. As in:

 ~DRIVE BELTS: You need to look at the drive belts. If it looks bad then replace.

 ~ANTIFREEZE: Replace the antifreeze in the car. Depending on the car I would use Sierra antifreeze with
Redline Water additive. But I would ask the mechanic from the make of your car, go to the dealership & ask.
Sierra is less toxic.

~FUEL FILTER / GAS CAP: Then you should replace the fuel filter & look at the hoses, this would help out your car a lot,
if things are dirty. Before you put on the filter fill it if you can with fuel injector cleaner. This helps clean out the
injectors when you start the car.
 As for the gas cap, if you open the cap & do not hear the pressure release then it is time to get a new one.

~AIR FILTER: I would replace the filter. I would look at the filter at every oil change to see how it looks.
Hold it up to the light to see how it looks. If there are a lot of stuff in the filter, just softly tap the filter in your hand to
get the stuff out. If the filter looks bad then get a new one.

~SPARK PLUGS: Depending on what kind of plugs you have, if you use copper type plugs I would replace that
at 30,000 miles. Iridium, platinum or silver spark plugs could last to 75,000 100,000 miles or higher.
I would replace them at that.

~TRANSMISSIONS / DIFFERENTIAL: I would change the oil this is important more in a auto.
If you use a synthetic oil it could last to 60,000 but why worry about it. Oil is cheaper than the transmission.

~BRAKE FLUID / PADS: You should have the like flushed out & have new fluid put in. It sucks to have bad brakes.
My 1982 Toyota corolla had carbon in the line, it made the brakes work in a time delay.
You would put on the brakes & that would not do anything, then later all 4 tires were screeching.
I took the car in & they flushed it out. It worked fine after that. It is best to be safe.
 I would also change the brake pads, you need to stop the car sometime.

~O2 SENSOR: This is something that needs to be done. My nissan would run funny, then when
I put in a new sensor the car got better. My subaru seemed to run fine with out it, but I am sure it was not running good.
To get things working good & to get better MPG, I would change it.

GETTING BEST MPG:**The best way it seems to get more MPG, out of my Subaru & other cars
was to, get the car running like it should then to add a better flowing exhaust, headers
A honed intake manifold & better spark with indexed spark plugs to get better use of air & fuel.
 I have had the best luck with E3 spark plugs &  NGK V-power plugs modified, for mpg, than a lot of others.

Letting in more air into the engine can lower your MPG, some times but more air flow can help something
like a vortex generator to work better, when added with more spark, with an additive in the fuel that lubricates.

 More air = More gas used to keep the car from being too lean from the more air.
The car reads more air so it turns up the fuel & uses more. So getting a better flowing air filter could lead to that.

 Less air = Like an vortex generator in a stock setup, can block the intake causing the car to read too rich because
there is less air. So the car will use less fuel to get the mix of air / fuel right. A lean running engine could burn
your valves, pistions because the engine is not made to run that lean. It is best to run rich not lean.
 I had a K&N cone filter kit, on my Nissan 240sx & with it I found I had 18 MPG highway, with out it was about
23 MPG. The fact is the more air you get in the more gas you need to keep the car from getting too lean!
The car's ECU will read a lean mix so it will turn up the gas. This will make less MPG.

 Middle air = More air with an vortex generator breaks about even. More air makes the vortex generator run better.
The more air flow gets best use of the vortex generator, making it less of an blockage.

 The electricsupercharger I had on my Subaru with all the mods works very good.
On the highway I found my self only giving the Subaru 25% throttle & going 85 to 90 mph with out the
electricsupercharger running. It made a good vortex generator with out blocking the air too much.
 Because it increased the size of the air inlet, so it was not much of a blockage.
I spent time on the highway but did not see any mpg with it. It made the car run better.

 Another effect on on your MPG, is the design of your engine. If the engine has a bigger stroke the piston travels
farther with each stroke The farther it travels, the more it compresses the air fuel mixture, and the more
mechanical energy it harvests from the explosion as it retreats.
This is the concept of a diesel engine being efficient, why a diesel has better MPG.

 With my Mazda Protege I found the best setup for more MPG is to have a vortex generator with the air inlet being
changed so it is flowing better with no air boot. pulling in warm air from under the hood, less dense air.
Better spark with E3 sparkplugs. An better flowing exhaust. With something in the fuel to lubricate everything,
but not in excess. Seems to be the best setup for me.

 With things flowing better my Mazda acted like the Subaru on the highway, 25% throttle to go 85 to 90.
 But if I went down to 75 mph my MPG went really up.
 It is a matter of speed in the car. It takes more gas to feed the many bangs in the engine.
It has to do with the RPM's. The more bangs the engine does the more gas it takes to feed them.
 And the faster you go the harder it is for the car to go against the wind.
 With the set up I had I was always running about 25% less throttle on the highway.
It all depends on how you drive for more mpg!

 Make sure the car is well tuned & with A better flowing air filter & vortex generator.
This might or might not help in getting things up. But in my Mazda it does.
Air filters like Amsoil, K&N or Fram AirHog, will work. I personally like the Amsoil type air filter it looks like it
would filter better.

 Helping the car to breath better will make the engine work less to pull it the air & get best use of the
vortex generator you might have.
 Better spark will be more able to light off the mix of air / fuel the vortex mixed up together.
Added with something to lubercate in with the fuel will make things move better in there.
 Also a better flowing exhaust system will make the engine work less to push out the exhaust.
Add the 5 together & you will could good MPG.

 You can get a Fog warmer, they say it will get you more mpg. What it does is warms the fuel before it gets used.
It gets strapped to the radiator hose with new piping that can take the heat & pressure of the heated fuel.
 The hot fuel gets hot like steam in a pressure cooker. This will mix air & fuel better, giving you more mpg.
I do not want to do that because of my injectors having some plastic in there that I do not want to get hot.

 Hot air intake, is said to work because hot air is less dense. Less air less fuel used to get the mix of air / fuel right.
This could make your engine run too lean & it is hard on the airflow meter.
 With hot air you will have to open the throttle to get the car to go because of less power
but still less fuel is being used.
 Being hard on the engine is why I will not do such a thing to the engine.
 To have the air inlet at something like 4 inches from your exhaust manifold could be bad I think,
I have my engine pull air from under the hood with all my mods with out my air boot on this is good enough for me.

 Keep the engine cool a hot running engine can lead to piston fatigue & fatigue of other parts.
Saving MPG is not worth the cost of a new engine.

 If you dare it you can use Acetone in the gas. It helps the fuel to vaporize in to small particles.
It keeps the fuel from clumping together when it sprays into the cylinder, this will give more of a
complete combustion. You will need to get the right mix 0.5 to to 3 oz per 10 gallons.
The more you put in the less it works. As for me I just do not want to do it to my car.
No telling what it will do in there. Acetone is strong stuff!

 You also need a good slick oil, less friction, less heat get synthetic or a good slick type.
Header wrap or wrap for your air inlet would also help in bringing down the heat.
Heat kills MPG, & your engine. But the heat wrap could make things hotter in an engine if wrapped too much.

Capacitor ignition like DirectHits ignition or Nology's HotWires ignition might help. Or just good spark plugs would help
in getting more MPG. But if your car pings with Capacitor ignition, it will not be worth getting a new engine over it!

 A vortex generator, works good in a Ford Ranger. It also kind of worked in my Nissan 240sx,
It will work with the mods to make it work. I would not use it in a stock setup. You need to change something.

 Lastly the first thing you need to do is to get the car running right, all tuned up, then I would check the tires.
If the tires are slick or low in air it will be more likely that things are not moving efficient, this can lose you some MPG's.
 Also getting bigger tires on your car can help get more mpg, by lowering the engine's rpm's, this will help in getting more MPG.
 
 

****CAR LINKS****

FUEL----OIL.COM
FUEL----P66CONOCO76.CONOCOPHILLIPS.COM
FUEL----BP.COM
FUEL----SHELL.COM
FUEL----TEXACO.COM
FUEL----CHEVRON.COM
FUEL----SUNCOINC.COM
FUEL----SINCLAIROIL.COM
FUEL----FUELSTECHNOLOGY.COM

FUEL INFO / MSDS----DOCS.CITGO.COM/MSDS~~.PDF
FUEL INFO / MSDS----CBEST.CHEVRON.COM/MSDSSERVER
FUEL INFO / MSDS----W3.CONOCOPHILLIPS.COM/NETMSDS
FUEL INFO / MSDS----BP.COM/DISPLAYSDSTDSSCREEN.DO~~
FUEL INFO / MSDS----EUAPPS.SHELL.COM/MSDS~~
FUEL INFO / MSDS----P66CONOCO76.CONOCOPHILLIPS.COM/GCOMMON~~.PDF

ETHANOL----FUEL-TESTERS.COM
ETHANOL----CONOCOPHILLIPS.COM/SOCIAL~~
ETHANOL----CONSUMERAFFAIRS.COM~~
ETHANOL----PESWIKI.COM~~
ETHANOL----NPI.GOV.AU~~
ETHANOL----CARADVICE.COM.AU~~
ETHANOL----356REGISTRY.ORG~~
ETHANOL----OEHHA.CA.GOV~~.PDF
ETHANOL----CAT.INIST.FR~~

BIOBUTANOL----GREENCARCONGRESS.COM/BIOBUTANOL/INDEX.HTML
BIOBUTANOL----DUPONT.COM/BIOFUELS/EN_US
BIOBUTANOL----BP.COM/LIVEASSETS/BP~~.PDF
BIOBUTANOL----EN.WIKIPEDIA.ORG/WIKI/BIOBUTANOL
BIOBUTANOL----BUTANOL.COM
BIOBUTANOL----AUTOBLOGGREEN.COM~~
BIOBUTANOL----GREENCHIPSSTOCKS.COM/ARTICLES~~

ALGAE BIOBUTANOL----EN.WIKIPEDIA.ORG/WIKI/ALGAE_FUEL
ALGAE BIOBUTANOL----NEOENERGY.NET
ALGAE BIOBUTANOL----LISTSERV.HEANET.IE/CGI-BIN~~
ALGAE BIOBUTANOL----JOURNALARCHIVE.JST.GO.JP/ENGLISH/JNLABSTRACT~~
ALGAE BIOBUTANOL----NEWS.CNET.COM/START-UP-DRILLSFOR-OIL-IN-ALGAE~~
ALGAE BIOBUTANOL----GREENFUELONLINE.COM

ACETONE----FUELSAVING.INFO/ACETONE.HTM
ACETONE----NEUBRANDERINC.COM/BLOG~~
ACETONE----PUREENERGYSYSTEMS.COM~~
ACETONE----PESWIKI.COM~~
ACETONE----LUBDEV.COM/SMARTGAS/ADDITIVE.HTM

ALTERNATIVE FUEL----DANGEROUSLABORATORIES.ORG
BIODIESEL----GOBLUESUN.COM
BIODIESEL----BIODIESELAMERICA.ORG
BIODIESEL----BIODIESEL.ORG
BIODIESEL----BIODIESEL.COM
BIODIESEL----GREASECAR.COM
BIODIESEL----BIODIESEL-INTL.COM
BIODIESEL----GREASEBARON.COM
BIODIESEL----GREASEWORKS.ORG
BIODIESEL----VEGGIEAVENGER.COM