Needle size

Cotton thread size

Silk thread size

Spun polyester thread size

Fabrics

5/45

100 to 130

160 to 200

200

Extremely thin fabrics, such as habutae-silk and nylon
(Under T-21)

7/55 to 8/60

100 to 130

140 to 160

150 to 200

9/65 to 10/70

70 to 80

100 to 120

130 to 150

Thin silk, crepe, satin, Georgette,voile, organdy
(T-21 to T-30)

11/75 to 12/80

50 to 60

80 to 100

100 to 130

Ordinary silk, thin calico, poplin,ordinary wool
(T-30 to T-30)

13/85 to 14/90

36 to 40

60 to 70

80 to 100

Ordinary wool such as calico, etc.woolen goods
(T-40 to T-45)

16/100

30 to 36

50 to 60

60 to 80

Ordinary wool incl. thick calico, thick woolen goods
(T-50)

18//110

24 to 30

45 to 50

50 to 60

Futon cloth (thick bedding materials), topcoats
(T-60 to T-70)

19/120

20 to 24

40 to 45

40 to 50

Thick fabrics for bags
(T-80 to T-90)

Special needles and their uses

Needles for knit fabrics (HAx1SP)
The “SP” in “HAx1SP” identifies the needles as those used exclusively for elastic fabrics, such as knit and tricot cloth. The rounded point of the needle is designed to prevent skipped stitches, yarn breakage and the like.

• When using these needles be sure to keep the yarn tension slightly slack, and do not apply excessive pressure to the sewing machine’s presser foot. Regulate the pressure of the presser foot at a slightly toned-down level.
• When sewing, stretch the cloth a little just before it comes under the presser foot. This technique helps add a beautiful finishing touch to the piece.

Needles for leather (HAx1LL and HAx1LR)
The “LL” of the “ HAx1LL” and the “LR” of the “HAx1LR” identifies the needles as those used exclusively for leather materials (natural and synthetic). The knife blade-shaped point of the needle makes it easy to sew leather, which ordinary sewing machine needles find difficult to pierce.

• Seam length should be no shorter than 2.5mm because leather is easily snapped off when very short seam are used.
• When the leather you are working on cannot be smoothly fed into the sewing machine, apply a piece of thin paper to the upper and lower surfaces of the leather. This will not only make for easy feeding of the leather, but will also help to put stitch patterns in proper alignment.
• When the thread will not tighten properly or when skipped stitches are found, apply “wax” to the point at which the thread passes through to improve thread slide.

Needles for Georgette (HAx1GT)
The “GT” of the “HAx1GT” identifies the sewing machine needles as being those used exclusively for Georgette, organdy, and similar fabrics. As the blade of the needle is made thinner than ordinary sewing machine needles, “GT” needles are less likely to cause yarn displacement and/or seam puckering.

• Use #80 thread as standard. As for thread tension, string the lower thread rather loosely, then adjust the tension of the upper thread to conform with that of the lower thread.
• To prevent seam puckering and/or stitch wrinkles, hold both ends of the cloth with your hands and pull the work piece slightly to the other side of and away from the sewing machine

Needles for decorative stitches (HAxIST)
The “ST” of “HAxIST” identifies the needles as those used exclusively for decorative stitches and/or embroidery with thick and/or loosely twisted threads. For this type of work Gauge #11 and #14 needles are used because the eyes of these needles are larger than that of the standard HAx1.

• Use #30 thread for the Gauge #11 needle and #8 thread for the Gauge #14 needle. Do not use extremely thick threads because they will place undue strain on the sewing machine. The maximum allowable thickness is #8.

Needles for denim fabrics (HAxIDE)
The “DE” of “HAxIDE” identifies the needles as those used exclusively for denim/raincoat/tent material. The point of the needle is triangular to allow smooth passage of the needle and prevent breakage in the material. A Gauge #16 needle is recommended in view of the thickness of the material to be worked upon.

• A thick thread can be used because the eye and groove of the needle are larger than normal; however, we recommend that #30 to #40 threads be considered the standard.
• When the thread will not tighten properly or when skipped stitches are found, apply “wax” to the point at which the thread passes through to improve thread slide.

Twin-needle (HZ)
Sewing can be conducted using two upper threads. This method is used mainly for decorative patterns.

• Note that some sewing machines cannot be used for twin-needle sewing.
• When using a twin-needle, it will be necessary to attach the proper accessories to your sewing machine—such as presser foot and needle plate, among others; these accessories normally come with the sewing machine. For details please refer to your machine’s owner’s manual