Norway is Europe's great parkland: a dramatic mix of mountains, seas, forests and fjords. While the country has tidy cities, historic buildings and distinctive artists, nature is clearly its prime attraction. We think it's one of the loveliest countries in the world, summer or winter, and the prime travel destination in Scandinavia.

The country has astonishing variety: The serene rural landscapes around Oslo are nothing like the deep fjords along the western coast, and the countryside along the zigzagging roads to Bergen could not be more unlike the stark, barren land around Alta or the sunny coves of the south coast.

GEOGRAPHY
Norway is first and foremost a maritime nation, and most of its population lives along the coast or on the hundreds of coastal islands, where the weather is moderated by the Gulf Stream. The most spectacular fjords are scattered along the west coast, where Norway meets the Barents, Norwegian and North Seas. The country's eastern border abuts Sweden, Finland and Russia. The interior of Norway, which is much colder than the coast, is dominated by rugged mountains and pine forests. Part of Norway lies above the Arctic Circle.

Official Name: Kingdom of Norway.

Passport/Visa Requirements: Passports, but not visas, are required for Australian, Canadian, U.K. and U.S. citizens. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.

Note: Visitors may enter any of the Scandinavian countries (Norway, Sweden, Finland, Iceland, Greenland and Denmark) without a visa and stay for up to 90 days, but they may not stay for 90 days in each country. The 90-day limit is the total amount of time a visitor may spend in Scandinavia without a visa.

Health Certificates: None required. Contact health authorities for the latest information.

Capital: Oslo.

Currency: Norwegian kroner (NKr). 100 ore = 1 NKr.

Population: 4,481,162.

Area: 125,200 sq mi/324,268 sq km.

Languages: Norwegian, Sami.

Economy: Industry, services.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Evangelical Lutheran).

Government: Constitutional monarchy.

Weather: Temperate along the coast, colder in the interior of the country.

Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 47, country code.

Airport Departure Tax: None.

The country's national identity is hard to separate from the Vikings or Norsemen who set out by sea to conquer the world—and met with a surprising degree of success. The Norse explorer Leif Eriksson may well have been the first European to visit North America, around AD 1000 (predating Columbus by about 500 years). It's thought that he landed in Newfoundland or New England and established a settlement known as Vinland.

The Black Death reached Norway in 1349, killing an estimated two-thirds of the population and leaving the weakened nation easy prey for its powerful Scandinavian neighbors. For more than 500 years, Norway was governed by Denmark or Sweden, who treated it as a rustic, uncultured backwater. It was not until 1905 that the country finally gained its independence. This relatively recent transformation to nationhood helps explain the deep-rooted patriotism of most Norwegians. When Norway was overrun by Germany during World War II, resistance was fierce—everyone from schoolteachers to fishermen organized to fight against the occupation.

Contemporary Norwegians take pride in the cultural accomplishments of such Norwegians as playwright Henrik Ibsen, artist Edvard Munch and composer Edvard Grieg. Being devotees of the outdoors, they are equally proud of their present-day athletic heroes and heroines, be they soccer players, skiers, skaters or runners.

The Norwegian standard of living is among the highest in the world, in part because the country is almost self-sufficient in its energy needs (95% of which are supplied by hydroelectricity, and it's a major petroleum-exporting country, thanks to its North Sea reserves). Among the other achievements of modern Norwegian society is a deep-down and thoroughgoing appreciation of the equality of women—both in theory and in practice. (Norway was one of the first countries in the world to give women the right to vote.)

Important Dates in Norway

800's
Vikings raided western Europe and Mediterranean
890's
Harald Hårfagre ("fair-hair") unites Norway to single kingdom.
Ireland under Norwegian rule. Iceland colonized.

995
King Olav Tryggvason converts Norway to Christianity.

1000
Norway is split in three parts by Olof Skötkonung, King of Svealand, his step-father Svend Forkbeard, King of Denmark, and the exiled Jarl Eirik. King Olav Tryggvason defeated.

1022
King Canute the Great of Denmark conquered Norway. King Olav escaped to his relative King Jaroslav in Novgorod, where he raised an army. The new King of Sweden, supports king Olav Haraldsson.

1029
Bishopric founded in Trondheim (Nidaros)

1030
The battle of Stiklestad in Trøndelag, in which Olav Haraldsson is killed.

1042
King Hardeknud of Denmark dies without an heir, and Denmark and Norway unite under King Magnus.

1047
King Magnus defeated by his uncle Harald Hårdråde and Denmark and Norway were split.

1066
Harald Hårdråde killed in the battle of Stamford Bridge while attempting to conquer England. Viking raids come to an end.

1130-1240
Civil wars. Population growth, development of towns, social changes.

1184
Illegitimate son of King Sigurd, Sverre, acknowledged as sole king. He consolidated the power of monarchy, created a new nobility and replaced an aristocratic administration with royal officials. His firm hand in ruling the church led Pope Innocent III to excommunicate him and lay Norway under interdict.

1261/62
Greenland and Iceland subjected to Norwegian rule.

1266
King Magnus VI Lagabøter (Law-Mender) ended lingering war with Scotland by selling the Isle of Man and the Hebrides to Scotland.

1274
Magnus VI introduced national code of laws which remains in use for more than four centuries

1319
Three-year old King Magnus of Norway is also elected King of Sweden. End of Norway as an independent kingdom.

1349-50
Black plague kills one third of Norway's inhabitants.

1379
Marriage ties link Norway with both Sweden and Denmark, and Queen Margarete, the wife of Haakon VI, succeeded in gaining control of the country as their son the king was only five years old. He had already been elected King of Denmark.

1387
The under-age king died. The nobles of the Senate (Council of the Realm) elected Erik of Pomerania, Margarethe's grandnephew, as their king. Margarethe is appointed Regent and unites Norway, Sweden, and Denmark in the Union of Kalmar.

1536
Norway becomes a subject of the Danish crown. Danish becomes the written language of Norway. Reformation makes Norway Lutheran.

1645
The provinces of Jämtland and Härjedalen are ceded to Sweden after Thirty Years' War. In 1658, Bohuslän is also lost to Sweden.

1716-18
Sweden attacks Norway, but retreats when King Karl XII is killed at Fredrikshald.

1814
The peace treaty of Kiel gives Norway to Sweden. Norway declares independence at Eidsvoll, but after a short war against Sweden, Norway agrees to union with Sweden. The Norwegian constitution written.

1825
First organized emigration to America.

1905
The union with Sweden falls apart and Norway becomes an independent kingdom. The Danish prince Karl becomes King Haakon VII of Norway.

ALESUND

In the spectacular fjord country on the coast between Bergen and Trondheim, this fishing center (pop. 35,000) covers three islands and is worth a visit to see its art-nouveau architecture. Nearby sights include the "bird island" of Runde (230 species have been spotted there) and Selje Monastery (eerie medieval ruins on a wild, beautiful island). We were also impressed by Vestkapp, a cape so stormy that the Vikings dragged their ships overland to avoid it. At the Kraakenes Fyr lighthouse, you can stop for coffee and waffles—or even stay the night. 240 mi/385 km northwest of Oslo.

BERGEN

Founded in AD 1070, Bergen (pop. 213,000) is one of the most attractive cities in Norway—it demands a three-night stay to see everything. During the Middle Ages, Bergen was the seat of kings, as well as one of the departure points for Vikings who roamed the North Atlantic and Mediterranean. Even after Oslo emerged as Norway's capital, Bergen remained an important port city.

Start your visit by touring the Bryggen area, set along the inner harbor in the medieval section of town. There are some interesting shops in a handsome row of 18th-century wooden warehouses. Also on view are Mariakirke (a 12th-century church), the Bryggen Museum (fascinating archaeological displays of medieval life in the city), the surprisingly uplifting Leprosy Museum (housed in a re-created 17th-century leprosy hospital) and the Hanseatic Museum (an old house restored to show the conditions in which the Hanseatic League merchants lived and worked).

Music lovers may want to look for the Edvard Grieg statue in City Park, while history buffs can tour the 13th-century Bergenhus Fortress (containing Haakonshalle, a ceremonial hall built in 1261, and the 16th-century Rosenkrantz Tower—its dungeon is the stuff of nightmares). You may want to spend some time just walking around Old Bergen, a collection of 35 wooden buildings that show the city as it was in the 18th and 19th centuries. Or consider spending some time at the Fish Market—it's always lively and it's a good place to see what everyday life is like in Bergen. (The market is closed on Sunday.)

Floyen, one of the seven mountains surrounding the city, has a funicular ride with a spectacular view. At the top of the ride is a national park with excellent hiking trails. Just outside of Bergen in the town of Hop is the home of Edvard Grieg (Troldhaugen), which contains his mementos and original furnishings. His grave is not far away, on a jagged cliff overlooking the sea. The nearby Fantoft Stave Church is actually a modern replica of the medieval original, which was burned to the ground in 1992 by a Norwegian Satanist. It's still impressive, but we think it lacks the somber darkness of other authentic churches scattered across the fjord country.

Check with the tourist board for the exact dates of the Bergen Festival, an annual two-week event in late May. It's an excellent time to visit the city, as many arts, music and other cultural events are scheduled.

Bergen is famous within Norway for its weather: The city is wet and relatively warm because of its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf Stream. Be sure to have your raincoat or umbrella at hand. 190 mi/305 km northwest of Oslo.

BODO

The northern terminus of the Norwegian railway, Bodo (pop. 35,000) is just north of the Arctic Circle (watch for the marker just before the train pulls into town). There's not much to do in town, although the modern cathedral is interesting. Nonetheless, the train trip there is a good way for Eurailpass holders to see a bit of tundra. Bodo is also very popular in summer—it's one of the largest towns in Norway that experiences (from approximately 6 June to 8 July) the midnight sun. (It also has a completely dark winter, should you want to get a taste of that.) You can use Bodo as a jumping-off place for trips to the Lofoten Islands or for visiting the nearby Svartisen Glacier (excursions available on summer weekends only). 525 mi/845 km north of Oslo.

FJAERLAND

A favorite destination for Europeans, this tiny farming town at the end of the Fjaerlandfjord (a branch of Sognefjord) is preposterously scenic. Two massive glaciers spill down over the mountains, and at the Norwegian Glacier Museum you can have (literally) hands-on experiences with the ice. Guided walks on the glacier are also available. Book lovers will want to prowl the shelves of Norwegian Book Town, a dozen multilingual used-book shops in quaint restored barns and boathouses. 160 mi/260 km northwest of Oslo.

FJORDS

One of the main reasons to go to Norway is to see the fjords (long, narrow arms of the sea bordered by dramatic, craggy mountains). Many travelers choose a week-long cruise on one of the numerous lines plying these waters, but it's also possible (and rewarding) to cover the region in a rental car. The fjord country extends inland from Kristiansund in the north through Stavanger in the south, with the major fjords stretching roughly west to east.

The northernmost major fjord is Nordfjord, on whose shores are the towns of Loen and Stryn (a center for summer skiing). Nearby, spear-shaped Geirangerfjord is one of the country's most breathtaking. While visiting this fjord, stop and see the tiny church in the town of Geiranger, as well as Tystig Glacier. Or, if time permits, make the drive from Grotli to Dalsnibba, a breathtaking journey that takes you above 4,700 ft/1,400 m. The road passes Storfoss, the most spectacular waterfall on the fjord, as it climbs Mt. Dalsnibba—the views from the mountain are unparalleled. One other area to visit, if time allows, is Briksdal Glacier, part of Jostendalsbreen Glacier, the largest icefield in Europe (to get there from Olden, a town near Loen, you take a bus to the town of Briksdal, and then either take a horse and carriage or make a long, arduous hike to the glacier).

South of Nordfjord, the Sognefjord is the world's largest and deepest—and the most dramatic in the whole country. Flam and Fjaerland are both on branches of the Sognefjord—and don't miss the pagan-looking medieval churches at Kaupanger and Vik i Sogn. Farther south, the broad Hardangerfjord divides into three narrow arms near Utne, site of the Hardanger Folk Museum—there's also excellent hiking in the area. This was the region that inspired Edvard Grieg to write To the Spring. (If you visit in May or June, you'll understand why: Imagine the deep blue fjord, blossoming hillsides and snow-topped mountains under a clear blue sky.) Finally, one of the southernmost fjords is also one of the prettiest—see the jewellike Lysefjord (its name means "light fjord") on a day trip from Stavanger.

FLAM

Set on Sognefjord in one of the most stunning areas of Norway, Flam has mountains, waterfalls and other natural beauty. It's ideal terrain for bike excursions, especially through the Flam Valley. The area can be reached by road from Bergen and Oslo, but the preferred method is by train (the highway is very narrow). The train ride, along a spur off the main Bergen-Oslo line, drops 2,800 ft/850 m in elevation en route. The train makes repeated stops for spectacular waterfalls or mountain vistas. If possible, avoid the peak tourist season of mid June-mid August, when several cruise ships are docked in Flam simultaneously and the train is far too crowded to be enjoyable. Staying the night in Flam requires advance booking—there's only one hotel. Also in the vicinity is Voss, a well-known ski resort (it has hosted several World Cup ski competitions) that's in an equally stunning locale. In addition to resort activities, the town has the Voss Folk Museum (exhibits of handicrafts and old-fashioned implements), the Stalheim Folk Museum and the Finneloftet—Norway's oldest nonreligious structure (dating to around 1250), once owned by a noble family and probably used for entertaining guests. Voss is also the birthplace of legendary Notre Dame football coach Knute Rockne. 125 mi/200 km northwest of Oslo.

HALDEN

This town (pop 26,000) near the Swedish border is dominated by an impressive 17th-century mountain fortress. A museum and remaining barracks in the fortress demonstrate how the Norwegians tried to protect themselves from the Swedes. Just outside town is an extensive archipelago, ideal for a boat trip. 60 mi/ 90 km northwest of Oslo.

HAMMERFEST

One of the world's northernmost ports, Hammerfest (pop. 7,500) is worth visiting to see the stark Finnmark region, home of the Sami people (formerly known as Laplanders). You'll find good shopping in town and, in nearby Karasjok, the Sami Museum (displays documenting the lives of the people). Plan to stay one night, if you're not on a ship. 850 mi/1,370 km north of Oslo.

KIRKENES

The last city in Norway on the coastal-steamer route, Kirkenes (pop. 10,000) is the beginning or end point for anyone taking the entire coastal voyage. If you have time, take a 5-mi/8-km cab ride through Norway's "lake country" tundra to the Russian border and step across the once-forbidden crossing point. At a small tourist shop there you can buy old Soviet stamps. In the town itself, stop by the Grenseland Museum, with displays on the history and geography of the region. Kirkenes lies far enough north to observe the midnight sun. At the right time of year, you can take a midnight stroll through the local graveyard. in broad daylight. 880 mi/1,415 km northeast of Oslo.

KRISTIANSAND

On the southernmost tip of the country, Kristiansand (pop. 70,000) is the major city of the region called Sorlandet, known as the Norwegian Riviera. Founded in 1641 by the Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV, it has both a historic town center and one of the country's best boating areas and beaches. Though there are few real "sights" there, the nearby fishing villages are very picturesque, and the seafood is out of this world. 240 mi/385 km southwest of Oslo.

LILLEHAMMER

Long nestled in happy obscurity, Lillehammer (population 22,000) geared up for a huge influx of visitors during the 1994 Winter Olympics and won everybody's heart. See the ski runs—there are two Olympic downhill ski slopes and countless miles of marked cross-country trails—skating rinks and the Olympic village. Lillehammer also has the Maihaugen Open-Air Museum, a living-history exhibit of 150 buildings (we think it's one of the country's best museums). You can spend hours browsing the old workshops—there's one for practically every occupation, from framemaker to gilder to gunsmith. Each is highly detailed: It's as though the craftsman had stopped in the middle of his work to get a cup of coffee. Set on the shores of Lake Mjosa, Lillehammer is easy to reach by train from Oslo. Nearby, between Lillehammer and Lom, the Gudbrandsdal Valley is called Peer Gynt Country (the legendary Norwegian folk hero is said to have lived there) and merits a day's drive to see beautiful pine-clad slopes, northern meadows and picturesque streams. In the nearby valley of Gausdal is Aulestad, home of the famous Norwegian author Bjornstjerne Bjornson. 85 mi/135 km north of Oslo.

LILLESAND

Lillesand (pop. 3,000) presents an opportunity to experience what daily life is like in a traditional Norwegian coastal village. You may be surprised to find that, for some villagers, daily life includes a round of golf at nearby Randesund, where there's a challenging nine-hole course. There are quaint churches and other historic buildings in town, as well as a peat factory. 220 mi/355 km southwest of Oslo.

LOEN

This beautiful glacial town on the eastern point of the Nordfjord is in a stunning area, and the scenery is even more spectacular when seen by air. The flight over Jostedalsbreen Glacier—the largest sheet of ice on the European continent—is spectacular. If flying isn't your thing, you can enjoy an afternoon drive—by either motorcoach or horse-drawn carriage—through a wooded area to the Briksdalen Inn (in the nearby town of Briksdal), passing beautiful waterfalls and rivers along the way. 210 mi/340 km northwest of Oslo.

LOFOTEN ISLANDS

If you're looking to retreat from the world, we can't think of a more hauntingly beautiful place. These spectacular islands lie off the northern coast, near the stunning Trollfjord. Bird-watchers and anglers will think they've found paradise. The islands are surrounded by the richest fishing waters off the coast of Norway, and fishing has formed the focus of village life. Vestvagoy Island and the beautiful town of Stamsund are a good base for hiking and biking, and the town of Svolvaer on Austvagoy Island has an artists' colony (if time permits, visit the Lofoten Island Museum in nearby Kabelvag). In the village of A (yes, that's its entire name; pronounced awwww) the Fishing Village Museum re-creates the traditional life of the region. Sperm, minke and orca whales pass near the islands in summer. A popular option for visitors is renting a rorbu, a renovated fisherman's cabin that sleeps 4-6 people. Be aware that Lofoten is hardly undiscovered—in July and August, the islands are so crowded with tourists that you may not meet any Norwegians there.

Trollfjord is a dramatic sight on the fourth day of the coastal-steamer trip. Only about a mile long, this fjord has a breathtaking approach: The coastal steamer squeezes into a strait between two islands as mountains tower hundreds of feet above the ship; then the ship turns, and just as it seems it will crash into one of the islands, the narrowest possible waterway appears, and there's the fjord. The huge mountains seem almost within reach from the deck of the ship, and a half-dozen waterfalls spray down from both sides—it's really stupendous. 600 mi/965 km north of Oslo.

MOLDE

Molde (pop. 22,000) lies amid the spectacular fjord country on the coast between Bergen and Trondheim. The town sits beneath glacial cliffs, which protect it from the harsh elements, and it's blessed with a comparatively mild climate. Unfortunately, Molde was destroyed during World War II—it looks more modern than many other coastal towns—but you can still get a feel for the area's history by visiting the Romsdal Museum, which contains 45 authentic 15th-century wooden houses. Molde also has a museum documenting the city's dependence on the sea and its resources. The Molde Jazz Festival, held every July, attracts thousands to the town. The dramatic mountain scenery of the Sunnmore area is also nearby. If you have a car, you might want to drive the Atlantic Highway from Vevang to Kloveneset (4 mi/6 km), which threads across the Atlantic Ocean via tiny islands and embankments. 230 mi/370 km northwest of Oslo.

NARVIK

This northern iron-ore port was the scene of fierce fighting in World War II, taken and retaken by both Germans and Allies until hardly a house was standing. Today, Narvik has the Krigsminne War Museum and a scenic cable-car ride. Offshore are the Vesteralen Islands, which are popular for hiking (they can be reached by coastal steamer). The fishing season around the islands is January-April. 610 mi/980 km northeast of Oslo.

NORTH CAPE

If you're interested in seeing the midnight sun, anywhere north of the Arctic Circle will do. But we think that the North Cape (Nordkapp), at the very top of the country, has the best view and the "day" lasts from mid May until the end of July. The North Cape itself is a great black cliff, towering 700 ft/215 m above the Atlantic. Once reached by scaling the cliff—a practice no longer permitted—the summit can now be attained by car via a mountain pass (you may encounter large herds of reindeer en route). The biggest surprise—other than having to pay an admission fee—is the Thai room at the local visitors center, which contains a collection of objects commemorating the king of Siam's visit to the North Cape in the 19th century. Unusual antique postage stamps depicting the North Cape are for sale. There's not much else there, but the whole scene is very picturesque and somewhat eerie. 750 mi/1,200 km north of Oslo.

OSLO

Oslo's best asset is its wrapping. Facing a fjord and surrounded on three sides by forest, it's a fine example of Nordic scenery. But as far as cities go, Oslo seems less like a nation's capital and more like a big village. Somehow it manages to disguise the fact that it's home to around half a million residents—somewhere in all that nature.

While the city has palaces, churches and museums, its highlights are definitely outdoors. In summer, you can hike in the forest or take a ferry ride. In winter, you can cross-country ski or watch ski jumping. And no matter what time of the year you visit, you're bound to enjoy the simple pleasure of strolling the city streets.

Start your exploration of the city by walking along the main street, Karl Johans Gate, which in the summer is quite spectacular. It's fun to stroll along the western end of the street, where you'll be very close to the Historical Museum and the National Gallery. Karl Johans Gate ends at the Royal Palace, where you can watch the king's guards change duty every day at 1:30 pm. The Oslo Cathedral is in the opposite direction on that same street. As you head south of Karl Johans Gate toward the sea, you'll come across the National Theater, Akershus Castle and Aker Brygge.

You should not miss the Vigeland Sculpture Park, home to nearly 200 statues created by Gustav Vigeland. The ski jump at Holmenkollen is also a popular attraction: It's world famous, and you can take in a great view of the city from the top of the jump.

Other highlights include the Munch Museum (the life of the great artist), the Viking Ship Museum (1,000-year-old ships that look almost modern); the Kon-Tiki Museum and the Norwegian Folk Museum with its stave church. These are all located on the small peninsula, Bygdoy, southwest of the city. It's too far to walk, but Bus 30 will take you there. (You can also take a ferry there in summer.) Old Town is just west of the city center; Trams 18 and 19 go there.

Consider purchasing an Oslo Card, which gets you into many museums without paying admission fees and is good for unlimited use of the public transportation system, among other perks. It's a great way to save money in this very expensive city.

There are many theaters in Oslo, bolstered by a local audience that truly appreciates good dramatic performances. But visitors might be a bit disappointed to find that most close during summer. The Konserthuset hosts many guest musicians from around the world, and famous international performers often play the more spectacular Spektrum.

Nightlife in Oslo starts late, despite the fact that most restaurants close early. People pour into discos and nightclubs at midnight. Be prepared for steep drink prices, and most clubs charge a cover of around 50 NKr.

SPITSBERGEN

This island, the main one in a group called Svalbard, lies 800 mi/1,300 km north of the Arctic Circle. It is seldom visited, but specialty cruises sometimes stop there. It has two major ports: Longyearbyen (coal mining, seals, whales, walruses and seabirds) and Magdalena Bay (very impressive glaciers, mountains and coastline). The island also has a large population of polar bears, which are both dangerous and protected. (Wildlife-viewing tours are available, though there's no guarantee you'll see any bears.) Between the mainland and Spitsbergen lies bird-filled Bear Island. 500 mi/800 km north of Tromso.

STAVANGER

The "capital" of Norway's off-shore oil industry, Stavanger (pop. 97,000), has grown into a distinctly modern city. Located on the coast south of Bergen, it has several interesting sights, including restored 18th-century streets and houses, the Canning Museum (replica of a 19th-century sardine-packing plant), Domkirke (a Romanesque church) and the city museum. But the most entertaining museum in town is the new Norwegian Petroleum Museum: Built over the water to resemble an oil-drilling platform, it's filled with buttons to push, displays to climb on, even a simulated helicopter ride. There are a number of fine lookout points near the town, as well as interesting Klosteroy Island, home to Utstein, a 13th-century abbey. 190 mi/305 km southwest of Oslo.

TELEMARK

This county is sometimes called Norway in Miniature: It's set amid small fjords, and the countryside is quite beautiful. The area is best seen by a combination of car, boat and ferry. The peak of Gaustatoppen, near Rjukan, offers a magnificent view of the area. Also visit Kongsberg, the center of silver mining for several centuries, where a miniature train will take you deep into the mountain. 75 mi/120 km southwest of Oslo.

TROMSO

This former whaling station has a population of 50,000, making it the largest city above the Arctic Circle. (It also has the world's northernmost university.) The main attraction in town is a historical museum that houses the largest exhibition on Sami culture in the world, as well as excellent exhibits on Arctic exploration. Another very popular destination is the iceberg-shaped Arctic Cathedral. Tromso is one place where nobody should be afraid to drink the water: The Coca-Cola plant there is the company's only one where the local water is so clean that it does not need to be purified. 720 mi/1,160 km north of Oslo.

TRONDHEIM

Trondheim (pop. 138,000) is a must-see city dating back to AD 996 (it was the Viking capital). At least two nights are needed to really absorb all of it. Among the sights are the Wharf District and the Market Place, or "Torget," where you can see the statue of King Olav Tryggvason, founder of the city. Another interesting sight, the "Stiftsgarden," is a baroque wooden manor and the official residence of the Norwegian royal family when they're in town. Yet another sight is the Ringve Museum of Music History, which houses one of the most impressive collections of musical instruments—more than 200—in the world. Local university students serve as guides and play many of the instruments as part of the tour. The museum also has a children's room with toys and art games. We really like Nidaros Cathedral, a popular destination for pilgrims during the Middle Ages and the site of Norwegian coronations. Erected in the 11th century, it's the world's northernmost cathedral and repository of Norwegian crown jewels.

For something a little different, drive a few miles east to visit the town of Hell, after which you can say you've been to Hell and back. Some 75 mi/120 km to the southeast is Roros, a former copper-mining town with remarkably well-preserved buildings, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 245 mi/395 km north of Oslo.